Woodworking For Beginners

the new step-by-step guide to have fun with your kids at home by creating 101 craft and innovative low-cost projects in a short time using manual and electric tools

Table of Contents

Introductio n               3

Chapter 1. Wood Propertie s               6

Chapter 1. The Basics Tools and Skills of Woodworkin g               11

Chapter 2. Projects for Lockers and Basic Furniture (Part I )               18

Chapter 3. Projects for Lockers and Basic Furniture (Part II )               27

Chapter 4. Projects for Lockers and Basic Furniture (Part III )               37

Chapter 5. Projects with Miter Saw (Part I )               49

Chapter 6. Projects with Miter Saw (Part II )               59

Chapter 7. The Woodworking Router and Its Supporting Tool s               69

Chapter 8. Projects with Router Table and Table Saw (Part I )               74

Chapter 9. Projects with Router Table and Table Saw (Part II )               90

Chapter 10. Projects for Refined Furniture (Part I )               107

Chapter 11. Projects for Refined Furniture (Part II )               114

Chapter 12. Projects for Kids (Part I )               123

Chapter 13. Projects for Kids (Part II )               135

Chapter 14. Projects for Kids (Part III )               143

Chapter 15. Projects for Kids (Part IV )               151

Chapter 16. Projects for Outside (Part I )               159

Chapter 17. Projects for Outside (Part II )               170

Chapter 18. Projects for Outside (Part III )               182

Conclusio n               193

Introduction

Woodworking means a lot, but here’s a reasonable definition that most hobbyists probably agree with. Woodworking is a productive craft where wood is cut, shaped, and combined to create ornamental and useful things.

Woodworking is nothing physically demanding, and you can build at your own pace. The foundational principles are simple to learn, but they are always a diversion, which will be new and daunting as the experience progresses. If you love to solve problems, you love woodwork. I have been with this for years, and with every project I create, I face new challenges. This is part of the process. It is also satisfying to make your hands and brain pretty fun things for your house.

In general, woodworking is a very lonely experience: you will like working with wood if you are a little introverted and want to carry on projects from start to finish.

Woodworking Development

Woodworking is often known as one of the most enjoyable activities of all. You will quickly make your parts by engaging in the use of woodworking equipment and tools. Such pieces are smaller tasks at first, but the abilities improve the elements you make.

Like any sport, woodworking allows you to get some basic knowledge. You will need to familiarize yourself initially with different kinds of equipment and woodworking tools available. Every piece of the tool has a particular task. Nevertheless, because you cannot buy every computer and system available, you will learn to adapt that software to multiple applications.

I advise you to find a woodwork class near your home. If this is not an alternative, you can purchase an excellent book on simple woodwork or a beginner course on tools and architecture. Such products can be bought from decent bookstores or on the Internet.

The second stage of woodworking hobby development is to learn how to plan your woodworking projects. The design of the parts that you will manufacture is one step in this process. Next, you need to identify which materials are required, and finally, the specific tools are required to complete the job. You can either design your projects or purchase designs and projects that already detail it. These pre-designed projects will make more sense when you start first and help you to learn the woodwork design and planning process.

Another aspect of project design is to know about different types of wood products. As your hobby skills develop, you will find certain kinds of woods with which you enjoy working. Various types of woods are suitable for various multiple projects. Pine is significantly different from maple, and oak can work harder than ash. These parts of the woodworking puzzle are just more interesting.

Projects for Woodwork

Good preparation in woodworking projects is always necessary. With free woodworking guides, you always have the necessary details and measures to do a good job.

The first element of woodworking projects is what you are trying to create precisely. You must also decide for specific purposes to fulfill your intended product. You will also have to determine what style is best suited to.

The most critical step of any woodwork project is preparation. Remember how much time you have and how much money you are going to have to spend. Such vital aspects play an essential role. You will write a detailed specification that contains sketches of the finished product and any subassemblies. This is very important in the planning of your activities. The dimensions of each section of the package must include thorough drawings.

The next part of the strategy is to list all the supplies you need. There is a vast selection of wood and construction materials so that you can choose everything that fits the style while taking the quality, robustness, and aesthetics into account.

Most woodworking projects require the procurement of certain materials. A wide range of tools is available. Some of them are quite inexpensive, and some of them quite pricey. You will strive to choose designs that don’t need the most expensive tools when designing your woodwork projects. You may not have to be so careful with your decisions if you already have some resources.

Nonetheless, before using it, you must test if the devices need conditioning. If your current methods are harsh, this is very necessary. Apart from personal safety concerns, the use of stubborn tools can lead to incorrect and rough cuts or damage to softwood.

The next step in all woodworking projects is to start the work. This is a fascinating bit for most of us. You have to be very careful when doing it. Follow all instructions, particularly any power tools that come with your tools. So keep in mind that you always wear appropriate safety gear, such as safety glasses. Mistakes can be quite costly at this point. It is essential to stick to your plans and do nothing else.

The next step then is to ensure that your final product is fully completed. This may change the whole appearance of your work. Deciding on an excellent finish will change the entire piece’s look, so consider that carefully. Even the best woodwork tasks can require the planning and execution of plans.

Excellent planning relies on all woodworking tasks. With Step by Step Guides, many things are now different, and woodwork projects technology is simple and easy to build. Before, it took comprehensive skills to make something with your own hands; some people would work as a hobby in their free time; others would take it seriously and turn it into a business.

Today, some people can build their woodworking creations, and the majority of people would call a contractor to build them a piece of furniture, a deck, or even something as necessary as a step ladder. But it would make life more comfortable and fun to learn to create your furniture made from quality wood of your choice.

Chapter 1. Wood Properties

The beauty of a wood floor is incomparable. It can be both classy and traditional, but its look is never outdated.

It is very versatile, and it can go well with almost any furniture and home décor. Whether it use in residential or commercial spaces, it does not fail to give a beautiful result. If taken care of properly, it can last a lifetime.

A lot of homeowners choose wood flooring because it is very economical. There are varieties of affordable wood flooring that are of good quality.

Wood flooring is also quite environmentally friendly, despite its source. It is recyclable and biodegradable. Most of all, it comes from renewable sources.

Wood flooring is good for our health too because it does not harbor the unfriendly dust mites, and it promotes better indoor air quality.

In addition, wood flooring is also very easy to maintain. A little sweeping, vacuuming, and buffing are all enough to maintain its luster and shine.

It can be installed in almost every part of the house except the bathroom. However, choosing the right wood product for a particular area is crucial.

Solid-wood flooring is not suitable to be installed on below-grade areas like basements. Engineered-wood flooring is suitable for all other areas.

There are two types of wood flooring: solid wood and engineered wood.

Solid-Wood

It comes from timbers milled into planks. Before the timber is cut, it is either air-dried or kiln-dried. Proper drying of the timber is very important to ensure that the wood has the right moisture content.

The inconsistent moisture content of the wood will affect its quality and may cause the wood planks to warp during storage or installation. The thickness of the solid-wood flooring ranges from 5/16 to 3/4 inch.

The way the timber is cut determines the look of the surface of the floorboard. There are three different methods to cut the timbers. The methods are:

Flat-Sawn

This method is the most common and most inexpensive way to cut the timber. The timber is sawn in such a way that the annular rings produce cathedral patterns of the grains on the surface of the floorboard.

Quarter-Sawn

This method is a more expensive way to cut the timber. The timber is first cut into quarters, and then it is flat-sawn. This method produces straight patterns of the grains on the floorboard. Working with quarter-sawn woods is very favorable because the dimensions of the straight grain patterns are very stable.

The moisture penetration resistance of quarter-sawn floorboards is better than the other boards.

Rift-Sawn

This method of cutting timber is the most expensive because it has a lesser yield. Rift-sawn floorboards are usually narrow due to the radial orientation of the cut pattern.

This method also produces very straight patterns of the grains on the surface of the floorboards.

The floorboards are further processed to create various styles. The most common styles of solid wood flooring are:

Strip: This flooring style is the traditional look of the wood floor. This is also the most popular due to the versatility of its application.

It can match almost any type and size of the room. The width of the strips can vary from 1 ½ to 3 inches.

Plank: This flooring style is suited for larger rooms. It is also the most desirable style for areas with wide-open spaces like living rooms and hallways. The width of the planks ranges from 3 to 7 inches.

Parquet: This flooring style is made of wood tiles that can either be custom-made or preassembled. This is perfect for creating various floor patterns. It can be installed to herringbone patterns, weaves, and geometric shapes.

Solid-wood flooring is sold either prefinished or unfinished. A lot of homeowners prefer the former because it is less expensive. Even if the unfinished wood flooring needs extra effort to sand, homeowners love it because it gives them the freedom to choose the stain that they want.

On the other hand, the latter is more convenient because it is ready to be installed. Homeowners who want less hassle prefer it, even though it is more expensive.

Engineered-Wood

It is the most accepted type of wood flooring around the world because of its stability. It can be installed on almost all types of subfloors. It is also not prone to warping, cupping, or shrinking.

This wood flooring is made of more than two layers of wood glued together. The top layer is made up of a thin solid wood veneer, and the substrates are made up of composite wood products.

The substrates are usually mixed with acrylic, which makes them stable and durable.

There are three commonly used substrates:

Fiberboard

It is a wood product that is made up of wood fibers. Fiberboard is classified according to its density. The medium-density fiberboard or MDF is the one used as a substrate for engineered wood flooring.

Fiberboard Flooring component should not be used in areas with high humidity because it tends to absorb moisture. High moisture can cause deformities to wood flooring.

Finger Core Construction

This substrate is made up of small pieces of milled timber. The milled timber runs perpendicular to the veneer top.

A layer of plywood is added to the finger-core construction to make it more stable. This substrate is less prone to cupping and gapping.

Ply Wood

This substrate is made up of several layers of wood plies that are glued together. Each ply runs perpendicular to each other. This construction adds stability to the wood flooring.

The engineered wood flooring is usually available in planks. The wood plank has a width that ranges from 3 to 7 inches, while the length ranges from 7 to 8 feet. The thickness ranges from 3/8 to 3/4 inches.

The planks are mostly sold prefinished.

The planks are usually available in three different styles:

One strip plank: The plank has one strip of veneer on the top layer. Its design looks like a wide board.

Two strips plank: The plank has two strips of veneer on the top layer. The strips are glued side by side on the substrate.

Chapter 1. The Basics Tools and Skills of Woodworking

Once you decide to pursue woodworking, the first priority should be getting all the tools you will need. In most cases, you will already have most of the basic tools right in your home. However, it would still be a good idea to purchase some more pieces of equipment. You might also want to replace some old tools in your toolbox to be sure you have a good set before working. In any case, there are two broad categories of tools to be familiar with: hand tools and power tools. We will look at each category, as well as some of the essential tools to have from each. We will also take a look at some of the miscellaneous items that you can include in your shop tool chest.

Hand Tools

An assortment of woodworking hand tools

Hand tools are the easiest to get when starting woodwork, as they are often readily available in the home and are inexpensive. Below are some of the essential hand tools that a basic woodworking kit should be comprised of.

Hammer

The claw hammer is perhaps the most recognizable of all woodworking tools. It not only lets you drive nails into wood pieces but also remove them using the clawed end. The clawed end also serves as a counterweight to keep the hammerhead balanced. It can also come in handy for a variety of other tasks.

Weight is an important consideration when purchasing hammers. A heavier head would mean a stronger force for every stroke of the hammer, which makes driving a nail easier. However, it might also prove a bit more difficult to control. Another important consideration when purchasing a hammer is the handle size: the longer the handle, the faster you can swing the hammer, increasing force. The most preferred weight for a claw hammer is around 450 grams.

Hand Saw

The hand saw is another hand tool that is almost universally associated with woodworking. And even with the advent of power tools like the jigsaw and the circular saw, many experienced woodworkers find it a must to have at least two different hand saws included in their toolset.

Rip Saw

Crosscut Saw

While there are several different types of hand saws, the two essential kinds to have in a starter kit are the rip saw, and the crosscut saw. The main difference between these two saws is how they cut into the wood: the ripsaw cuts along the grain while the crosscut cuts across the grain. Also, note that the number of teeth (denoted as teeth per inch/TPI) determines which saw should be used for cutting a particular size of wood stock. Saws with higher TPI are suited for a smaller stock, while a lower TPI is useful for doing more aggressive cuts on larger ones.

In case you don’t want to have to deal with two separate tools, you can opt to get a saw with interchangeable blades.

Tape Measure

A retractable tape measure

Accuracy is crucial when working on a wood project, as you want each piece to be exact to the specified dimensions to ensure the correct fit. Here, a tape measure would be more preferred than a ruler, as it is a lot more compact and can be easily carried around where needed. A 25-foot retractable tape measure will be ideal, as anything longer than that can cause the retract mechanism to not work properly.

When buying your tape measure, it is important to check the sturdiness of the hook at the end. When this hook becomes loose, it can slightly slide out of place, which can throw your measurements by as much as an eighth of an inch, which can screw up the accuracy a lot. Also, don’t let the tape rollback too hard so as not to damage the tab.

Screwdriver

Screwdriver set with interchangeable bits. The bits are the common sizes for general use.

Screws are useful when you want to easily disassemble joined pieces. However, they can be quite a pain in the neck when you down have the right sized screwdriver for the job. A good screwdriver set should come with the most common sizes for Philips and flat-head screws. Though less common, it would also be helpful to have some star drivers and Torx drivers for these types.

Chisel

A collection of woodworking chisels

The chisel is probably one of the more overlooked of the basic hand tools, as it is more often associated with wood carving. However, the chisel can actually be a versatile piece, as it can be used to clean out joints and saw cuts. Furthermore, it can be used for such novel tasks as prying two joined pieces from each other.

When buying chisels, it would be a good idea to grab several different sizes. Choose ones that are made from high-carbon alloy steel or chromium-vanadium alloy steel, as these will resist wear and tear much longer. Also, get those that have hardwood grips with metal caps on the ends since this can take hammer strikes well.

Hand Plane

Block Plane

While the hand plane is sometimes overlooked by beginners, it is one of the essential tools that a woodworking starter kit should have, as it is used not only for smoothing wood but also for shaping it according to needs and trimming it to meet measurements. A block plane is a good starting for novices. You will probably be surprised to know that getting older block planes is actually a good idea, as the quality of the steel used for the parts is often higher.

Power Tools

Power tools are designed to get common woodworking tasks done a lot quicker and easier. These tools come in two different varieties: corded tools, where you need to plug them into a power outlet, and cordless tools that have their own battery pack. Almost all power tools come packed with an assortment of attachments, letting them do the work of several different tools. 

Circular Saw

While the circular saw is sometimes considered to be more of a carpentry tool, it has also become indispensable for the woodworker’s craft. The circular saw lets the woodworker do cuts that can be saw. It can also be made to cut accurately by using clamps to hold the piece, which is ideal for dealing with plywood or fiberboard.

As is with the hand saw, the number of teeth is important when getting a circular saw and saw blade. A blade with more teeth in it produces finer cuts, which is ideal for making accurate slices.

Jigsaw

Cutting curves into wood pieces is often a difficult task to accomplish when using regular saws. A jigsaw makes the work easier by giving you better control to guide the direction of the cut. One feature you would want to get with a jigsaw is orbital action. Unlike standard jigsaws, which simply move the blade up and down, orbital action jigsaws angle the blade forward, driving it into the wood in the upswing to produce a smoother cut. Do keep in mind that this feature is usually more common in pricier units, but you still find it

Table Saw

For many beginners, the table saw would be their first major acquisition for the shop as it is where much of the work will be centered. A table saw lets you cut large pieces of wood, as well as accurately trim smaller pieces to size. Many table saws also come with components that let you cut different thicknesses of wood at desired angles.

Power Drill

Going from cutting to drilling holes will be another common task you will encounter. Here, you will probably be surprised to know that a corded power drill will be a better recommendation than a cordless one. This is mainly because corded drills are less expensive and will be able to provide constant power much longer.

Router

The router is a versatile power tool that beginners will find handy for a variety of tasks. A stationary model is a good option for beginners, as it will get most tasks done easily. Choose a unit that is at least 2 HP up, which has enough power to handle larger bits.

Random Orbital Sander

Random Orbital Sander with Sanding Disks

Of all the woodworking tasks, sanding is definitely one of the most laborious, as you will likely be spending hours to achieve the desired smoothness of the wood surface. The random orbital sander makes this task less tedious while freeing your hands from all the pain of having to rub the sandpaper vigorously onto the wood. Another great thing about the random orbital sander is that it lessens the appearance of noticeable sanding marks as it moves in a random motion instead of a definite pattern.

Miscellaneous Tools and Items

Apart from the above tools, there are several other items you should have in your shop’s tool chest. These items will come in handy for a variety of tasks and can also be used when you need some improvised tools.

Clamps

Clamps are arguably some of the most indispensable must-haves around the shop. Their uses range from holding glued pieces firmly together while the glue sets, holding pieces being cut, or securing wood beam being bent into shape. Clamps come in a wide variety of types, including bar clamps, spring clamps, face clamps, corner clamps, and C clamps.

Pliers

While pliers are more commonly associated with electric and electronic work, they also have a ton of uses around the shop. Just like clamps, pliers can be used to hold wood pieces when working. Pliers can also be used as a makeshift wrench to loosen bolts on wood panels, as well as a lever for prying wood pieces.

Levels

When making items like tables and cabinets, it is vital that they stand flat on the ground. A level is useful in checking whether this is indeed the case. A basic level has a small clear cylinder filled with a liquid and with a bubble suspended within.

Speed Square and Builder’s Square

A speed square is a tool to let the woodworker determine whether pieces that need to be at right angles with each other are indeed such. At its most basic, the speed square is essentially just an L-shaped ruler.

Marking Tools

The two most common marking tools that you should stock up in the workshop are the chalk and the carpenter’s pencil. The chalk is your everyday variety that can be readily bought from school supplies stores.

Work Stands

Work stands are particularly useful for those who have to deal with small spaces. These can be used to hold the tools you are using so that they are not lying around. Work stands can also be very handy if you need to transfer from one room to another, as you can simply prop them anywhere you need to.

Air Compressor

Most of the power tools you probably own are electrically powered. However, there are some run by compressed air, such as pneumatic nail guns. However, air compressors are a lot more useful than just powering pneumatic tools, as they can be used to run other equipment.

Chapter 2. Projects for Lockers and Basic Furniture (Part I)

Tall Bookcase with Drawers

This project is based on actual plans for a Craftsman bookcase. The original has tenons on its shelves that go through the sides and are held in place with wedges inserted into the ends of the tenons. The shape, dimensions, and hardware have been kept from the original plans. This bookcase was much easier to make using biscuits—and it looks great. Instead of the traditional Arts and Crafts dark staining, the white oak in this piece has a clear finish. The wood will eventually develop a beautiful golden-brown patina.

Materials:

Other materials: 12 shelf pins; biscuits

Directions:

After cutting all the parts, layout the sides next to each other so it is clear to you which will be left and right. Use a set of trammel points to draw the arc at the tops of the sides. Bending a thin strip of wood to the desired arc will also work.

Here is a method for drawing the curves at the bottom and the tops of the sides that will produce arcs with consistent, pleasing shapes.

First, at the bottom of the sides, mark how wide the bottom of the feet will be and draw these vertical lines using a square held against the bottom of the side panels. Mark how far up the cutout will go and mark that square to the sides. Then draw another line parallel to this line ¼″ below it. Use a cup or small can and draw an arc connecting the vertical lines with the lower horizontal line. Bend a thin strip of wood (or a small-diameter wooden dowel rod) connecting the small arcs with the top horizontal line at its center. Assuming that you only have two hands, you’ll need to have someone help you draw this arc.

Mark the arc on the crest rail, as shown. Mark on both ends of the rail how far down you would like the arc to go. Put a mark at the center top of the rail, and connect the dots as shown.

Rough-cut the top arcs, and smooth them with a belt sander or by hand with a sanding block.

You could also make a template and rout the arcs. This ensures that both sides will be the same, and it also makes the final edge cleanup easier.

Cut the bottom arcs and sand them smooth, or make a template and rout the cutouts.

Cut the first set of slots in the side panels.

Turn the biscuit cutter around and cut the second set of slots.

Draw a line parallel to and 3/8″ from the front edge of both the top and bottom panels. Glue the kick rail and top rail in place, using the lines as your reference.

A router set up with a ¼″ wing cutter is an excellent way to make the stopped grooves in the back panel rails and stiles.

Before assembling the back panel, finish sand the ¼″ panels. After the back panel is assembled, sand the entire project and finish it before the final assembly. You’ll be gluing this bookcase together in one operation, which includes twenty-two biscuits and a dozen clamps, so gather all the necessary materials before final assembly and have them within reach.

Working quickly, apply the glue to all the parts and clamp them all together. You might need to call back that assistant who helped you draw the curves earlier to help hold the back panel in place and lend a hand attaching the clamps.

Mini Desk Masterpiece

What you will need:

Pallets

Hammer

Nails

Stain

Saw

Sandpaper

Pencil

Measuring tape

Directions:

Start by removing all the wood on one side of your pallet. Measure your desk where the stand is going to be, and mark on your pallet where you need to cut. Follow these lines with your saw, then use sandpaper to sand down the wood, so it’s smooth.

Apply a stain to the wood now, bringing out the natural look.

Sand down any other rough spots, and your stand is made

Hanging Cupboard

This small cupboard is a reproduction of an original Shaker design created in Mount Lebanon, New York, in the early 1800s; it was created by scaling a photograph of the piece to create a measured drawing. It has two adjustable shelves and would look good in any room in the house.

This is a good project for learning and using fundamental biscuit joinery techniques. The original Shaker cupboard in the photograph was made of pine and had a warm brown color. As shown here, the cabinet is made of sugar pine and finished with orange shellac. Then it was top-coated with pre-catalyzed lacquer to provide a water- resistant finish.

Materials:

One pair of brass hinges (3/8″ × 1″)

Wooden knob

Biscuits

Directions:

After cutting all parts to size, cut the slots for the ends and sides. Dry-assemble the parts before gluing to be sure all the joints fit correctly.

When clamping the sides and top and bottom together, be sure the assembly is square.

Here the slots are being cut into the two face panels. By laying the two parts on edge together, it’s easier to hold the biscuit joiner square to the face of the panels.

Two biscuits will help align the panels with the cabinet sides.

Attach the shelf brackets with small nails or brads. Use a spot of glue in the middle of the bracket if desired.

Be sure to use scrap pieces of wood between the clamps and the pieces being glued. This sugar pine is easily dented by the clamps.

Glue the top and bottom outer panels to the cabinet.

Layout the arch on the top of the back panel, draw the center radius. Then, blend a second radius into the center radius to form a smooth transition. Cut and sand this curve smooth.

Drill oversize screw holes (¼″ in the back panel and attach it to the cabinet with screws. The oversize holes will let the back panel expand and contract with changes in humidity without cracking or splitting.

Coat Rack

Tools you’ll Need:

A saw.

A screwdriver.

A tape measurement.

Wood glue.

Optional but recommended: Sandpaper.

Optional: A stud finder (only needed if you’re mounting it yourself).

Optional: A level (only needed if you’re mounting it yourself).

Material you’ll Need:

A wooden board, 4 x 4 is recommended.

Hooks.

Screws.

Instructions:

Select your desired wood. A 4/4 board will be a good thickness but it will be a little too wide. If you are going to be hanging this coat rack in your own home then you can find instructions on using a stud and preparing your wall in project #1, so we won’t bother going over those again. But for a coat rack, your plank is going to be a little too wide if you are doing a single strip coat hanger.

So, once you have the measurement for how long your coat hanger is going to be, you need to cut. If you are making one to sell or gift rather than for your own home, you aren’t going to be able to get exact measurements so just stick with a foot long. That should be enough space to hang at least four hooks. If you find that this is too long for you, you can always remove wood much quicker than you can add it.

Use a pencil to mark the length and use your saw to make the cut. Next, measure the width of the board and make a pencil mark half way. Before you make a cut, take your hooks and place them on the board to see how much space they need. If you are using large hooks then you might need three-quarters of the board rather than half. Half is about where you’ll find yourself cutting with most hooks though.

With the board cut, it is a good idea to sand it down. While this is optional, nobody is going to want a coat rack that gives those splinters. For a cool look, try sanding down the corners on all the edges of the side that’ll have the hooks on it. This will give the wood a tapering effect that looks awesome. Once the board is sanded, decide if you want to apply a finish or paint to it. Let these dry before continuing.

The easiest hooks to go with simply screw into the board from the middle. For the cleanest effect, use a level to ensure that each of the screw holes will be even. Use a measuring tape to ensure that the hooks are all evenly spaced. Use your pencil to make a quick note where the screw will go. Keep the pencil marks small enough that the screw will remove it all. This is your blueprint for screwing in each of the hooks and that’s all there is to it. Once they’re in, you have a coat rack.

Vase and other Decoration Pieces  

What you will Need:

To make this vase you need some small wood logs. Cut them in proper size. The diameter should be 2 inches while the length can also be 1.5-2.5 inches. Keep the length same.

Directions:

Now get some vase or use some old bucket and join the logs with it by using wood gum that will secure the small logs with it. Now place some flowers of your desire in it. This wooden vase can be placed on the side table. Moreover, it’s also a good idea to use it for outdoor tables. 

Now check the following wall mounted design. This design is also good to go with. You can start this simplest woodworking project to decorate your home walls.

Cut and arrange the wood as shown in the picture. Before mounting with the wall use a glass in the middle as shown. This woodworking project will decorate the walls of your home in really an amazing way. So why don’t you try it?

Chapter 3. Projects for Lockers and Basic Furniture (Part II)

Small Tool Chest

This small tool chest will sit nicely on a bench but can easily be moved. It comes with a removable box, handy for holding those small screws and bits that always seem to get lost.

The frames are joined with tongue-and-groove joints; these are similar to the mortise-and-tenon joints, also commonly used in frame-and-panel construction. Besides being a good introduction to this type of joinery, the project, as pictured here, is a testament to the value of recycling. All of the frame elements were made from one board of pallet wood, and the panels were cut from scrap pieces of ¼″ luan plywood.

Materials:

One continuous hinge (3/16″ × 1½″ × 20″)

Directions:

Cut out the parts as listed in the Materials List. Use parts B, C, D, E, and F to build the front, back, and side panels. Then cut a 45° angle on all the ends of the panels.

Lay the panels face up and end to end. Tape the joints ™ with clear packing tape. If you like, press the tape flat with a steel or wooden roller.

Flip the whole assembly face down, apply glue to the bevel joints, and fold it together.

Use clamps to hold the untapped corner joint until the glue dries. Be sure the assembly is square. Cut the rabbet in the top of the back panel, attach the continuous hinge, and install the top A. Attach the bottom A with screws and install the runners J for the removable box.

Cut out the removable-box parts G, H, and K and glue the front, back, and sides together using butt joints.

After the glue dries, glue the bottom K to the removable box assembly. Sand the whole project and finish. Glued butt joints are stiff enough for this box because the bottom helps hold the whole assembly together.

How to Assemble a Frame and Panel

Frame and panels are commonly used in cabinetry, particularly for making doors. Here’s what you need to know to put them together. You may notice, by the way, that the solid-wood panel pictured here has a bevel along all its edges. This allows the panel edges to fit into the narrower grooves of the frame. In the tool chest project, the panels are already all ¼-thick plywood, so using this technique is not necessary.

Layout all of the parts as they will be in the final assembly. Without this step, it is easy to make mistakes—for example, turning a panel upside down.

Add glue to the end of the first rail (horizontal piece) and set it in place on the stile (vertical piece).

Put the panel in place.

Add glue to the other rail and put it in place.

Put glue on the ends of both rails and put the other stile in place.

Lay the assembly flat on the clamps; apply slight pressure with the clamps. Check the assembly for squareness, adjust if necessary, and add a little more pressure until the joints are tight. Don’t apply any more pressure than is necessary, as it could distort the joint.

Living Room Box

Tools Needed:

Hand Drill

Hand Sander

Speed Square

Saw

Clamps

Strap Clamp

Tape Measure

Table Saw

Drill Press

Chisel Set

Screw Driver

Miter Box and Saw

Material Needed:

Wood (4’ 1x4)

Scrap Wood

¼ Inch Wood Dowel

Screws

Wood Glue

Ruler

Procedure:

From the end, measure:

(4)4 7” long Boards

(2) 5” Boards

8 ½” Board

Directions:

Wooden Bookshelf

Materials:

Tape Measure

Wood

Sandpaper

Blank sheet of paper

Pencil

Wood

Table saw (optional)

Safety Glasses

Power Screwdriver

Screws

Glue

Safety Gloves

Directions:

Take the side piece that you made the small defined markings with the pencil and lay it down on the floor while it stands up on its side. Do the same things with one of the shelves, ensuring you align it up against the side piece where you made your first pencil marking to be used for shelf placement.

Apply a bit of wood glue along the area where the two pieces will attach. Use a power screwdriver to screw the two pieces together from the side facing outside of the side piece into the center of the shelf’s thickness. Do this 2-3 times and make sure it is spaced evenly apart, depending on your piece’s size. The sizes of screws you will use will depend on the thickness of the wood you selected. Usually, when the thickness of the side piece is multiplied by two, it equals the length of the screw.

Do again Step 1 and 2 until you have attached all of the shelves to the first side piece and ensure you align each shelf with the placement pencil markings you made earlier.

Using wood glue and a power screwdriver, attach the bottom and top pieces in the same manner you did attach each shelf. Make sure that the bottom and top pieces are each lined up uniformly with the bottom or top of the side piece to avoid tilting.

Take the second side piece and lay it down, standing up on its one side like the rest of the pieces. Align it evenly with the bottom and top pieces on the bookshelf open side. By applying wood glue and using a power screwdriver in the same manner as the initial steps, you then attach the second side piece to the bottom and top pieces as well as the shelves. Make sure that the shelves are all straight and leveled before you add screws.

Chopping Board

Materials and Tools Needed:

Plywood pieces

Resorcinol glue

Belt sander

Circular saw

Table saw

Shaper enrouter

Nontoxic wood finish of your choice

How to Make:

Step 1: The width of the individual pieces determines the thickness of the block. For instance, the stock needs to be cut one-inch-wide for getting a block that is one inch in thickness, owing to the lamination procedure that brings together the boards. For a particular cutting board length, the stock should be cut a little longer. Once the board has been subjected to lamination and sanding, you may cut it to the final size.

Step 2: With the help of resorcinol glue on either side of the stock, attach these together. This glue is waterproof and hence will render stability when the board is immersed in water.

Step 3: Clamp together the boards and allow to dry overnight.

Step 4: Before the extra glue gets dried up, scrub it off. This will do away with chipping of the cuffing blades once you finish and shape.

Step 5: Once the board is dried up, remove the clamps and with the help of a belt sander, smooth the bottom and top surfaces.

Step 6: Using a circular saw or table saw, cut the board as per length. While making use of a table saw, the cutting blade should not be more than ¼-inch over the cutting board, otherwise it will drag.

Step 7: With a router or shaper, put around over edge on the cutting board’s top surface.

Step 8: Apply mineral oil or any other non-toxic finish.

Chapter 4. Projects for Lockers and Basic Furniture (Part III)

Wooden Spoon

.

Tools that you Will Need:

An axe

Hammer

Wedge

Knife

Spoon knife

The Wood  

Directions:

Splitting the log

Now you must hammer and wedge. Split the log to get 4 pieces.

Cutting the rough shape of spoon

Here we used a piece of charcoal for drawing the spoon shape. You can cut the rough shape closer to the drawing using the axe. If you want to leave wood or to finish it later, place it in a water bucket or in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

Finish the shaping using knives

You can shape outside of spoon by a knife and when it is smooth, make the bowl with a spoon knife. Finally carve at the end of handle.

Sanding

The spoon must be dry before sanding. Depending on the weather, it can take three to five days.

Oil and Wax

                     You can use linseed oil. Put a thick layer of oil and let it sit for few hours and after that remove remaining using a towel paper. Let it dry overnight. Next day, add wax. The wax is capable of protecting the spoon from dirty fingers and it will get washed when washing for the first time.

Your spoon is ready

Wood Clock Project

Needed Materials:

Small wood disk

A pair of scissors/ x-acto blade

Pencil

Clock mechanism and AA battery

Large clock hands (this is optional and depend on wood disk size)

Wood burning tool

Red enamel paint

Small foam brush

Drill bits and power drill

Paintbrush

220 grit sand paper

Directions:

Sand the wood disk surface and metal clock hands lightly with the sandpaper

Apply two enamel paint coats to the clock hands using the foam brush and let them get dry between the coats completely.    

Choose your preferred font and print the numbers using your computer that will match the measurement of 1” approximately. If you want to make it simple, just use number 12 on the clock.

Cut the numbers and use them as templates to trace onto the wood plaque using a pencil.

Using the finest tip on the wood burning tool, burn the number outline onto the plaque and carefully do it without burning your fingers.

In the middle of the plaque, drill a hole using the suitable drill bit.

Apply 2 polyurethane coats to the wood in an area where it is well ventilated allowing to get it dry fully between the coats.

Turn the disk over and you can insert clock mechanism into the pre-drilled hole.     

By following the instructions in the kit, attach minute, second and hour hands to the mechanism.

Set the time and now you can hang it in your wall to enjoy.

Pallet Slat–Backed Bookcase

Materials Needed:

Enough pallet slats to cover your surface area (I used 32 (91⁄4"-long) pieces of pallet slats)

Medium-grit sandpaper

Wood glue

Painter’s tape

5⁄8" nails (optional)

Varnish or wood sealer (optional)

Tools Needed:

Tape measure

Miter or handsaw

Palm sander (optional)

Table saw

Hammer or nail gun (optional)

Paintbrush (optional—for applying varnish or sealer)

Directions:

Use your tape measure to measure the surface area you are going to cover with pallet slats and determine how long you want to cut each pallet slat. (The hutch in this project is 37" wide, with the pallet slats cut to length so 4 pieces fit per row and enough pieces were cut to fill the height of this hutch at 30" tall.)

Use a handsaw to cut all of your pieces to size. A time-saving tip: When making a number of short cuts with your miter saw that are all the same length, make a pencil mark right on yousaw and line up each piece to cut with that mark; that way you don’t have to measure each individual piece.

Use your palm sander and medium-grit sandpaper to sand each individual piece. Run the sandpaper right along the corners of each cut piece to give them a little bit of a rounded corner.

To create the brick pattern, lay your cut pallet slat pieces on the ground in rows. Lay 4 pieces in 1 row end to end, and then use 3 pieces to start the next row with the end of each slat piece ending in the middle of the slat piece of the row below it. Continue this pattern for each row. You will need to make additional cuts to complete the brick pattern with smaller pieces at each end of every other row (see image 1 ).

Use a table saw to rip any row as necessary for your design to fit the height of your bookshelf. For example, the hutch measures 30" high but the pattern measured 311⁄4". I chose to rip 3⁄4" off the bottom and top rows so they would be similar heights. Another option is to make any necessary cuts on the last row only (see image 2 ).

One row at a time, run a bead of glue on the back of each pallet slat piece and then adhere it to the back of your furniture

For additional support as the glue dries, use painter’s tape to secure every few rows in place.

When you get to the last row, measure the distance to the top of your piece and double-check that your last row of slats will indeed fit. Make any additional cuts as needed

Wrap a paper towel around a knife and wipe away any glue that starts to drip in between the slats. (The glue will dry clear, but it’s nice to try to avoid any drips.) You may need to repeat this step every few minutes depending on how heavy-handed you were with the glue.

If desired, add 5⁄8" nails with a hammer or nail gun from the backside of your bookshelf for additional support. Use longer nails if the back of your bookcase is thicker than 1⁄4".

Let the glue dry overnight.

If desired, apply varnish or sealer.

Corner Shelves

List of Materials

Solid cedar, fir, oak or pine boards

Nails

Glue

Tools Needed:

Cut off or table saw

Drill

Jigsaw

Router

Instructions:

Pull the front faces out about 2 1/2 "or 3" wide and about 24, 18, and 12 "long.

Identify the design and layout of your theme in the center of the table. Drill a hole to start the saw and cut the heart, spade, diamond, tiger, or whatever. Draw and cut around this pattern and cut the rest of the board referring to the pattern. Clean with a lesson or burst file, and then with the router around the pattern and the bottom. If the solid planks are not wide enough, lay them down (lay them next to each other and glue the joints together) before cutting them at a 45 ° angle.

Attach universal 3/4 "x 1 1/2" wide strips of material to hold shelves and attach to wall below shelf.

Set your cutting saw to 45 ° and cut each side of the shelf to fit the corner and form 90 °. Cut the front face to 45. To match the length of the shelf.

Paint, finish or paint and install this little beauty in your favorite room.

Dog House for Small Dog

List of Materials:    

Nails

Sheet of 4'x8'x3/4" plywood       

Glue

Exterior caulking

Tools Needed:

Saw

Tape

Hammer

Caulking gun

Pencil  

Instructions:

2x2s or 2x4s frame not required. Start using 3/4 "plywood".

Pull the given pieces of plywood into the reported sizes:

2 pieces of 19 1/2 x 20 for the front and rear wings.

2 pieces of 15 "x 36" for sides.

2 pieces of 12 "x 42" for the upper part. Notice that the long end of each dog piece is ripped at a 29-degree angle.

One 18 "x 36" piece for the floor.

Draw the elevation and rear pediments to compare the design. Lower 5 "down the body leaving the center raised 5". Producea compass with a wood so that one end of the stick is 6 "from a driven nail near the other end and in the center where you want the circle. The nail is used as the stick's pivot point, as shown in the drawing.

Cut the entry hole in the front of the dog's house with a hacksaw or band saw and assemble the pieces. Start by nailing (gluing) the sides to the floor and then the front and back will overlap. Nail and glue the top halves in place with a caulking bead at the ridge joint. With a wet finger, wipe off excess caulking from the top of the roof.

Paint your dog with a good quality exterior color, generously overlapping the plywood grains.

Elegant Spice Rack

Materials and Tools Needed:

Table saw

Oak-veneer plywood

Rabbets

Dado blades

Drill press

Wood glue

Wood stain

How to Make:

Step 1: Take a table saw and cut out the top, bottom, back, sides, dividers and shelves using 4 x 8 sheets from oak-veneer plywood which is ¾-inch thick.

Step 2: Cross cut all the components to their appropriate lengths with the help of a table saw having a cradle. The cut marks should be aligned with the blade slot that is cut in the bottom of the cradle. To the cradle’s rear edge, clamp a notched stop.

Step 3: Cut rabbets with the dado blades and table saw, so that the assembly of the spice rack becomes easier and strong cabinet joints are made. To cut rabbets along each side panel’s back edge, set up a narrow range of dado blades with chippers.

Step 4: For cutting wider rabbets, expose a greater number of dado blades through adjustment in the table saw further back from the blade. Where the panels at the bottom and top need to fit into the spice rack’s sides, you require wider rabbets.

Step 5: After you set the dado on the table saw, leave it in the same manner. You need to again make use of the cradle for positioning components to cut dados for the dividers and fixed shelf of the spice rack.

Step 6: With the help of a portable drill press bore two rows of peg holes that are equally spaced, in the dividers and sides. These are meant for holding the adjustable shelves. To get a drilling template along the spice rack’s entire length, clamp temporary pegboard.

Chapter 5. Projects with Miter Saw (Part I)

Barn Door Headboard

Supplies:

Wood (1x6 8ft) $5.32 each at Home Depot 22 pieces

Miter Saw

Drill

Hammer

Pipe Clamps

Wood Glue

Screws

Stain

Degreaser

Measuring Tape

Pen

Directions:

I wanted my headboard 7ft tall (perfect for my ceiling height and still able to fit through standard doors and awkward hallways easily) so start out by deciding how big you want it. Keep in mind the sizing I used is based on a king bed. Cut your vertical pieces of wood to the height you want.

Each barn door will be created separately. First, put together 8 of your vertical boards UPSIDE DOWN and tighten with pipe clamps. Measure the boards across and cut a horizontal piece to fit.

Put wood glue on the back of the board to help secure it better.

Place the board underneath and use a hammer to secure it and make sure it’s even. Then screw in the board, using two screws per vertical board. (Sorry, no screws are shown here yet. Keep reading for a visual of the back.)

Repeat these steps three more times. One at the bottom and two in between, measuring first to make sure they’re even.

Stand the barn door up and holding your top diagonal piece, measure it, and use a pen to mark the cut. Repeat for the bottom diagonal piece.

Cover back with wood glue.

Fit in place. If it doesn’t quite fit perfectly you can shave off a little at a time with your saw.

While the door is still upright, put a screw on each end (through the back) to secure the board in place. Then lay the entire door flat so you can drill the screws into the diagonal piece. Use a board as your guide, so you don’t drill your screw through the front.

This is what the back should look like with all the screws in place.

Repeat steps to complete the other side, making sure your diagonal pieces are opposite. When your doors are finished, give them a quick sanding, then lift the doors up.

Brush the stain on with a paintbrush and quickly wipe off. My stain (of course) took a lot darker on the actual barn door, so I used a wet rag to apply, then rubbed with a degreaser to remove some of the stain and give it that worn look. I ended up scrubbing quite a bit to get the look I wanted.

When you’re happy with the color, wait for it to dry, then place your lights (optional). Drill a hole for the cord to come through the back and screw the lights into the board where you want them.

To hang my headboard, we screwed three small pieces of wood into the studs of my wall, then drilled three screws diagonally into the top of the headboard and straight through those pieces.

Pallet Board Coffee Table

Tools & Materials Used to Construct My Pallet Board Coffee Table:

3 pallets for the tabletop

1 8’ PT 4×4 for the legs

1 8’ PT 2×4 and 1 10’ 2×4 for the surround & tabletop support

Crowbar, hammer, and circular saw for the pallet demo

Wire brush to clean up the pallet boards

Broom, demolishing pallets can be nasty work

Miter saw to cut your boards & lumber

3″ deck screws

Nail gun & 1″ staples

Paint for the base and satin polyurethane to treat the top

And of course, a frosty beverage of choice and some smooth tunes to get you ready for relaxing in your new and improved space

Basic Construction of My Pallet Board Coffee Table :

By looking at my coffee table, it’s easy to see that the construction is very basic—there are just a base and a top. I guess that’s all any table is, really, but clearly, my construction is quite rudimentary. Regardless, below you will find the basic steps I took to construct my pallet board coffee table.

Determine the dimensions for your coffee table that will fit your space and your objectives.

Demo the pallets & clean the boards.

Cut the pallet boards to size.

Treat the pallet boards with satin polyurethane; this will allow your coffee table to last longer without making it look too slick.

Construct the Base:

Cut the 4×4 into equal-sized pieces to make the legs, whatever height you want your table to be.

Cut the 2×4’s to size to make the surround of the base, four pieces (mines were 2x4’ long segments and two segments that were about 32” long, making my base about 3’x4’).

With 3” deck screws, connect the four 2×4 surround segments to the four 4×4 legs.

Cut another 2×4 to size as support for the tabletop. Attach it to the surround so that the 2×4 runs perpendicular to the tabletop pallet boards.

Paint the base and let it dry. Wanting to add a pop of color to our otherwise gray pergola area, we chose to paint the base red. (Originally, I had planned on painting the entire table red, but after seeing how great the wood looked, I thought it would be a shame to cover it up. Besides, painting the entire table red would have been more like an explosion than a pop.)

Add the tabletop by evenly spacing the pallet boards on top of the base and nailing them into place.

Modern farmhouse bedside table

Materials:

Square

Table saw, or band saw

Mortising machine or plunge router with a straight bit and mortising jig

Miter saw

Sander

Router and decorative edge bit (optional)

Drill and small twist bit

3/4” 3 4” solid stock for top and aprons

1 1/2” 3 1 1/2” solid stock for legs

Z-clips

Steps:

Determine the size of the legs, aprons, and tabletop. Glue and clamp up an oversized blank for the tabletop and set aside. Cut legs to length and carefully layout mortises then Machine mortises.

Using a tapering jig, cut the tapers on the inside of each leg (this is the side with the mortise on it). This procedure may be done on the table saw, band saw, or with a hand plane. Layout and cut the tenons on each end of all four aprons.

Check for a snug fit in the mortise, and miter ends at 45° so that they meet in the center of the mortise. Mill a groove on the inside of each apron to accept the Zclips Sand legs and aprons then glue and clamp two separate leg-and-apron assemblies, each consisting of two legs and an apron to make sure the assemblies are square.

While these are drying, cut the tabletop blank to size and rout a decorative edge on it if desired, and then sand it. Glue and clamp the two leg-and-apron assemblies together with the remaining two aprons, again checking for square. 

When the base of the table comes out of clamps, place it upside down on the bottom of the tabletop, and position it so that there is an equal overhang of the tabletop all around the frame. Insert Z-clips in grooves, two per apron, and mark and drill the hole for the screwFinish table base and top as desired. Attach top.

Image/Diagram

Backyard Couch

The couch and the backyard should both be synonymous with relaxation. What if we sought to bring these two bastions of relaxation together by creating a backyard couch? Well, here you have it, folks! Because this woodworking project gives you a suitable place to park yourself for a great afternoon outdoors!

To get started, you are going to need a few tools, and they are:

Router

Nail Gun

Kreg Jig

Sander

Square

Multi-Square

Drill

Miter Saw

Tape Measurer

Directions:

In order to get started, you will need to cut out what will constitute your side pieces first. To do this, get out your Kreg jig and adjust the settings to where it is placed at 1-1/2 an inch. Next, you will need to drill some “pocket holes” into the ends of the wood so that you can bring the assembly together. After you have done this, you can then fashion out the components of the upper half of the assembly.

With this established, you can then move on to drilling into the “mitered” ends. Now glue the leg-boards into the assembly. Next, put all of the indicated components into their designated place and glue. After this, you can fashion out the boards that will constitute the seat slats.

Secure your seat slats to the rest of the assembly by screwing them in place. After this, fashion out the parts that will make up your couch’s armrests. Attach these to the assembly with glue and woodworking screws. Finally, take the pieces that will constitute the back slats and attach them to the back of the couch. Your backyard couch is complete!

Chair for Kitchen

Materials:

Miter saw

Flat bar

2 wooden pallets

Nail puller

Box, stainless steel screws

Measurement tape

Screw gun

Directions:

Take a wooden pallet and keep it flat on the work surface with the peak surface facing up. The flat bar will slide under the first two boards at one end of the pallet and snoop them carefully.

Pull out the nails of every pallet board with the help of a nail puller. Clean the pallets by removing any drifted nails and set the boards on one side. Repeat this process and remove the nails from each board, and cut the pallet boards for the back of the chair, legs, and arms.

Take two boards and measure the 12-inch surface with the help of measure tape and pencil. Use miter saw and cut to the length of the front leg.

Place the end, conflicting the detached boards, on the seat assembly pallet and lift it in an upward direction. Keep one front leg on each side at the elevated end and drive four wood screws with equal space through the leg into the exterior of the pallet with the use of a screw gun.

Put the second pallet level on the surface while keeping the top surface in an upward direction. Remove half board from one end of the pallet and clean it by pulling the nails out with the help of a nail puller. This pallet will help you to assemble the seat and ends with the removal of boards for back legs.

Insert the pallet designed for the back seat with the back leg down through the fourth board. Bring down the back legs on the work surface and used four screws to fasten the seat. You can use a screw gun to fix each joint of the chair.

Chapter 6. Projects with Miter Saw (Part II)

Storage Box

What you’ll need:

A miter saw

Hand sander

Drill

Glue, Pencil, Screws

Pins and 2 hinges, Clamps, set square, Ratchet straps

Biscuit jointer and number 10 biscuits. You’ll need to cut about 20 biscuit joints

19mm x 144mm Soft wood for a box measuring 800mm x 380mm x 450 mm (L, W, H)

Directions:

Cut your wood into size, but remember to subtract the thickness of the wood from the width of the box, so you get the right size.

Mark your lines so you can see where to make the cut with the biscuit jointer.

When you use your biscuit jointer, make sure that the blade is in the center of the wood. You should also make sure the blade is in the center of the biscuit too. Use the pencil markings as a guide, and cut an extra 5mm to the left and the right, so your joints are a little wider. This will prove helpful if you miss the mark.

Once you have cut all your joints, put the sides together without using any glue, as this will help you to determine whether they fit properly. If they don’t fit, make some small modifications until they do.

Now it’s time to add the glue, making sure you spread it evenly. Once you have added the glue and attached the joints together, wipe away any excess glue.

Now use your clamps, and pull the wood together so that it stays in place. This will help you to ensure you make the right sized base and lid.

Now it’s time for you to cut some support angles, these pieces of wood will ensure your box is supported a little more. Measure the corners of your box from bottom to top, and then use 2x2 timbers to cut out those angles and sand them. Now glue the supports into the box, and add screws if you wish.

Take the biscuit joints, and use them to join the lid parts. Add a few extra biscuits if it will make the joints a little closer.

Place the lid and the base on the box and, using the jigsaw, round the box corners. If you want to add moldings or shapes, use a router to do so.

Full-Length Mirror Frame

Materials Needed:

2 (1×6) wood pieces, 8’ long (for the vertical frame boards)

2 (1×6) wood pieces, 6’ long (for the horizontal frame boards)

Paint, stain, and or the supplies of your choice for distressing wood

1 full-length mirror

1 sheet 5⁄8” plywood, cut 51⁄2” larger than your mirror on all sides

Mirror adhesive

Wood glue

Tools Needed:

Various tools of your choice for distressing wood

Tape measure

Circular saw, or table saw

Miter saw

Clamps or a heavy object (optional)

Directions:

Use your tape measure to measure the size of your mirror.

Add 11” to both the height and width of your mirror measurement and mark that measurement on the plywood. This will leave your plywood big enough for a 51⁄2” frame around all sides of your mirror.

Use your circular or table saw to cut the plywood to size.

Apply mirror adhesive to the plywood avoiding the 51⁄2” from each edge for the frame

Adhere your mirror to the plywood and let it cure according to the adhesive directions. Depending on the size of your mirror, an extra set of hands to help maneuver the mirror into place could be helpful here.

With your miter saw, cut your frame boards out of the 1×6s. Miter the corners 45° on the flat side and make your cuts, so the length on the shorter side of each cut board is the same length as the dimensions of your mirror.

Adhere the frame boards to the plywood around your mirror with wood glue and let dry overnight. It wouldn’t hurt to use clamps or just lay heavy objects on top to ensure the boards are flat while the glue dries

When the glue is dry, wipe the wood and mirror clean if necessary and hang with hooks and wire made to hold the weight of your project, or simply lean against a wall.

DIY Honeycomb Shelves

Honeycomb shelves are easy on the eyes, and you can place just about anything on the – books, figurines, scented candles, and porcelain decors. 

To Make Your Honeycomb Shelves, You’ll Need:

Miter saw

Wood screws

Drill

Drill bit

Level

Rotary sander

Tape measure

Wall brackets

Wood glue

3 Fencing planks

Marker

Directions:

Set your miter saw to cut your planks at a 30-degree angle. After you make the first cut, turn the plank over and measure the long ledge. Make sure that the long ledge is 12 inches. Mark the spot where you want to make your next cut. Then, make the second cut. You now have the first piece for your honeycomb shelves. 

Repeat the process. You’ll need to cut fifteen 12-inch pieces. Make sure that all 15 pieces have the same size.

To make one hexagon pod, you have to take six pieces of wood and set them standing on the floor. Connect these pieces to form a hexagon. You’ll feel like you’re connecting a puzzle. Use a wood club to connect the pieces. Press the sides tightly.

Using a drill bit and a drill, pre-drill the holes when you want to screw and connect two hexagons. It will make it easier for you to screw, which prevents the wood from cracking.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you’re done with your first hexagon. Then, repeat the process until you’ve made three connected hexagons. Your honeycomb shelf should look like this:

Photos: friedasophie. blogpost

To hang your shelf, find the studs and then screw your brackets into them. Screw the bottom part of the bracket first and then put some pressure on the top bracket. Make sure that it is durable and it can hold some weight. 

Rest your shelf on the bracket. Then, go ahead and mark where you’ll put your next bracket. Put as many brackets as necessary for reinforcement. Now, you’re done!

This honeycomb shelf is fun, attractive, and surprisingly easy to make. It is a plan that you can do with your friends and even your kids.

Tiered Spice Rack

Supplies/Materials:

7 of 2 ½” wooden screws

Sandpaper

1 of 2”x 4” x 8’ board

Wood glue

Miter Saw

Paint

Countersink bit

Sander

Drill & bit to use for screws

** Before chopping any wood, calculate & choose the extent of the stand you want to make yourself.

Spice Rack with 3 Layers

3 of the 1 ½” into 3 ½” into 24” pieces of 2×4 (remember that the 2×4 accurately calculates as 1 ½” into 3 ½”)

1 of the 1 ½” into 3 ½” into 3” portions of 2×4

Spice Rack with 2 Layers

2 of 1 ½” into 3 ½” into 24” pieces of 2×4 (mind that the 2×4 honestly calculates as 1 ½” into 3 ½”)

1 of the 1 ½” into 3 ½” into 1 ½” portions of 2×4

Instructions:

Until installation, the boards are best to smooth. Smooth the 2x4’s until smooth using 80 coarse sandpaper. Usually, quit at 80 grit paper while painting the shelf. When the wood stains, do a sanding finish using 120 to 180 coarse sandpaper, scrubbing with grain orientation.

Tiered seasoning rack 3 level drill holes through 2 frames. 2 Level stratified drill holes within one board spice rack.

On the boards, weigh and label around ¾” in 3 positions evenly spaced from one long side. I was using a countersink power drill on the screws on pre-drill holes.

Sofa Arm Tray Table

Materials:

1 - 2x4

3 - 1x4

NOTE: All board lengths are 8' long unless otherwise noted.

Pocket Hole Screws

Polyurethane

Choice of Stain

Pocket Hole Screws

Wood Glue   

Pocket Hole Jig

Miter Saw

Cut List

6 Bottom Base Pieces measured at    3.5" x 18"

6 Table Top Pieces measured at   3.5" x 18"

2 Legs measured at   3.5" x 36"

2 Middle Cross Pieces measured at  3.5" x 13.5"

1 Middle Cross Piece measured at   3.5" x 10.5"

Steps:
From the 2 x 4, cut the legs and make the two middle shorter cross pieces from the 1x 4.

Using a ruler or tape measure, mark 18” from each end of the legs and glue these pieces with screws from the underside. In this project, this is the only placed pocket holes will be utilized.

All other joinery can use 1/4 inch or 3/8-inch sized dowels. One reason why I prefer dowels to be used on joinery is due to its added visual aesthetic.

The two middle cross pieces that are lingering in size can be joined together and clamped with a glue. Let this dry for a minimum of one hour or even overnight. Once dry, you may now make dowel holes by making use of the drill.

Three along the bottom and two on each side, this is where holes must be made. The bottom and top pieces of wood are again affixed with glue (1 x 4s as listed on our cut list). So. Glue together a total of 5 (1x4s) and trim or cut the wood to its utmost size that is 18”x 18.”

At the same time, you may clamp the two pieces together. Position carefully as required to be able to reach over the armrest of your choice and from bottom and top, drill for ½ “dowels.

Image/Diagram

Chapter 7. The Woodworking Router and Its Supporting Tools

The Woodworking Router is a standard tool in hardwood industries. The units are popular with pattern makers and stair designers because of the basic and elaborate wood patterns that are easy to create. The machinery was also becoming more common in the cabinet industry because it proved useful for various purposes.

Before the power tool boom, the hand tools of the kind consisted of a large wooden hand plane and a narrow blade protruding across the base plate. This design was called “Old Woman’s Tooth” because of its similarity in form. Woodworkers continued product development due to its multiple advantages.

Despite the introduction of newer power tools, the first-hand tool was still popular among carpenters and woodworkers. The demand for higher development led to the use of electric routers. This improvement has paved the way for the development of today’s various router pieces. This is an overview of today’s modern tool.

Types of Routers

A woodworking router is generally available in two major types: the handheld and the mounted table. The size of your design depends on what to use. The table-mounted equipment uses a supporting worktable. This unit is ideal if you create smaller, more delicate pieces because they are much easier to handle. Router bits face up and allow you to cut pieces more accurately. These units are also much safer, as wood parts are secure and secured. It is the ideal choice if you’re a beginner or you’re working as a woodworker rather than a professional.

Handheld units typically have large handles with the motor in the Centre on both sides. The placements of these parts are aimed at making movement easier to manipulate. It gives the maximum user control and handling of the machine. Some new models do not have features in previous designs. One of the most popular systems is a dust collection system that vacuums the sawdust. It is particularly remarkable if you don’t have an adequate workshop for your projects.

Router bits and pieces come in a range of shapes and sizes. Each type of diameter produces various effects on wood or any material with which you work. Half-inch bits are an excellent example among professionals and hobbyists.

These parts are rigid and produce smoother cuts. Such bits take less vibration as well. Handling is much less shaky and allows you to create designs easily.

Some online retailers produce custom router bits to meet your specific cutting requirements. These pieces are useful when you work on smaller materials or such sensitive projects as restoration. Look at these tools when your project involves applying original moldings and woodwork trimmings, which are no longer available on the market.

Buy your work router and bits. Consider the items that you plan to create or repair before you look at your options. Seek advice from carpenters, builders, or even hardware company staff to find that works best for you. There may be dangers with the use of a woodworking router. It is important to purchase adequate protective equipment such as safety lenses, gloves, and pillows. These items help to ensure your safety as you proceed with the project.

Woodworking Routers and Router Bit-the Right Tools for Modern Homeowners

Do you wish that you could sometimes create a piece of art from wood? See you with a little help completing wooden item repairs? Have you often thought about using machines to assist you with these future tasks? If you answered’ yes’ to everyone, you should consider getting woodworking routers and bits shortly.

A Working Router for Woodworking

It is a power tool used to create various shapes and forms in wood. The machine is often used to form structures at the edge of wooden panels or hollow its Centre.

The tool we see today is only a memory of what it was. The router was a simple hand tool made of a broad, wooden hand plane with a slim blade that stands out from its base plate before electrically operated machines were available. This peculiar look gained its sobriety “Old Woman’s Tooth” from the woodworking workers and capitals.

During those times, patternmakers and staircase workers used woodworking routers. They were very useful because they can create basic designs that are complex. The cabinet industry also preferred to work with these devices as they proved helpful in the business. The designs carried out showed a careful artistic design and attracted many buyers to buy cabinets and cupboards with complex layouts.

Even if electrical equipment was already present on the market, this manual device was still popular. Many workers and manufacturers alluded to its usefulness and worked with it until more production was requested. This eventually led to the use of electric tools in the United States and other industrial countries.

The Various Types

There are two forms of the tools available today: Handheld and Table routers. Handheld buttons have often been placed on the body of the motor or one of the handles. This device usually has two handles on both sides and a motor in the Centre. This feature helps users to manipulate the machine. A person who uses it can glide smoothly and control motions by cutting or shaping wood.

Table routers are worktable mounted machines. Often they are useful for creating smaller pieces that require more design details. Different wood artists and amateurs often cite their usefulness in this respect because it provides precise cutting. Novices can also use it as the used wood is secured in place.

The Bits of the Router

Router bits are tools used to work with routers. These are available in various shapes and sizes with specific functions. A straight bit, for example, is useful for making straight or vertical cuts. It is also useful to hollow wood out. Many employees also indicate their efficiency in material removal in increments when attached to a specialized router.

Reasons to Have These Instruments

If you want to execute DIY wood projects, purchasing is practical. You can also repair and restore wooden furniture, cabinets, and much more with the right materials and practice.

It’s easy to buy woodworking routers and bits on the Internet. Be sure to read customer and business reviews that are made available at reasonable prices by online providers.

Easy Tips for Purchasing Woodworking Routers and Bits

Woodworking, perhaps hard, but it can be rewarding too. Due to your experience and time, you can begin to handle small projects together with possible repairs. Here are things to know about routers and bits for woodwork.

Woodwork router’s functions and types can help to design, manufacture, and repair wood furniture. Its features allow users to make layouts easy, cut, and replicate existing patterns. It was used for many years as people used wood for hundreds of years.

The woodworking router used to be operated manually, but today it is powered by electricity. There are types of dip, fixed-base, trim, and combo router kits available.

Plunge routers have an engine attached to the base loaded by the spring. This is the safest router type, as users can hold it over the wood. Its ability to plunge contributes to results safely and accurately. Many versions have 1.75 horsepower (hp) and 100 volts functionality.

Fixed-base types can have a capacity of 1.75 to 3 hp, and you can use it by raising or lowering your engine at the base. This is the most accessible type for students to use.

In combination with carpenters and enthusiasts, wood can be cut across. The machine is highly precise, as it can adjust cuts to micro centimeters.

Trim routers are smaller, also referred to as laminate routers. The set capacity of this machine is one hp or less, and it was an instant hit as it is easier to use. Given its size and ease of use, users can operate it with proper training using one hand. This device is ideal for laminated surfaces because it can always provide precise cuts.

Combo woodworking types include a medium-sized engine with a fixed base and plunge base. Combining the best features of a fixed and plunge router, it’s like purchasing two separate tools. The best thing is that it has the same performance as bases work with handheld or table-mounted types.

Router bits and pieces are attachments for woodworking routers. Each bit comes in different forms and sizes with various applications. Straight bits are, for example, vertical and horizontal cutting tools. These router bits are also ideal if the solid wood is hollowed out or shaped.

Attachments for flush cutting require cutting bits. These instruments have a pilot with the same size as its cutting radius. The bearing serves as a practical guide and can create multiple identical shapes when used in a pattern.

Chapter 8. Projects with Router Table and Table Saw (Part I)

Routers are good for rounding up corners and the like. Let’s learn how to use a wooden router to learn the methods you must have to reach flawless edge profiles, perfect die and rabbets, and accurate cutting patterns by a wooden router. The secret for routing neat edges with a sharp bit is to drive the router counterclockwise direction across the top of the piece of work. This way, instead of pushing it backwards, the bit drives the router towards you, so it’s simpler to manage and more secure.

But the wood routing method against the clockwise direction doesn’t always work seamlessly. The wood has a propensity to chip off at the corners. The issue is solved with the help of “climb-cutting” (or clockwise cutting) for a few inches to the end grain at the board’s northeast, and southwest ends. Then start someplace on the piece of work and run the wooden router counterclockwise across the wood. But if, like a picture frame, you’re edge-routing the inner side of it, do it in a clockwise direction.

Cupboard for Cups and Stocks

Materials:

Steps:

Machining the wood

The cutting list shows the dimensions of the components you will need to machine. The wood was machined with all the parts left longer to allow for trimming later.

When your machine plane wood, the ends of the boards often suffer a degree of snipe. It is better than to saw around 50mm (2") off the ends of planed boards to get to the good stuff. Always machine up some extra pieces to use as test pieces for setting up things like miter cuts and routing.

Cut and glue the carcass

After setting up for the miter on my table saw and checking some test pieces, the sides, top, and base were sawn. I used a biscuit joint at the miter, but you could also use a domino or dowels. I find biscuit joints fast and accurate.

Sand the insides of the boards and glue the top, base, and sides together. I used light cramps with woodblocks, and the miters closed up fine.

Cut and glue in the shelves

The shelves, which are 3/16" (5mm) less in width than the outer pieces, can be sawn to length and sanded. I marked the position of these, applied glue and pushed them in place, then applied the clamps. Dowels were used to secure the shelves in place.

The dowel heads add a decorative touch. You can also buy dowels off the shelf from timber yards and hardware stores, or make your own with a dowel plate. The dowel positions are marked, holes drilled, and dowels glued in.

Door and back panel

The door and back frames are made at the same time as they are identical in construction. For the door panel, I had two short pieces of white cedar that were wide enough, but the grain did not quite match.

It would have been better, of course, to have one long piece to cut the two-door panels from.

Jointing the door

The joint used for the door can be a mortise and tenon, a floating tenon, domino, or dowels. I used the router to make the mortises and made up loose tenons from white cedar. The door frame encloses a solid timber panel, 3/8" (10mm) thick.

The panel is housed in a groove. Before cutting the groove on a router table, I removed part of the waste by making a saw cut on the table saw. This makes the work of the router a little easier. Spend some time aligning the fence and router cutter perfectly. Theoretically, you can run the wood over the router cutter and then flip it and run the other face against the fence of the router table. However, I have tried this and found that every now and then, one piece of wood can be grabbed by the cutter and flung across the workshop. Hence, I prefer only making one pass over the router table

Glue up the door and back

All the wood machining should now have been completed. The back is laid out and ready to be assembled. Sand the panels before assembly.

If you wish, do a test assembly of the door and back without glue; once you are happy with everything, apply glue and clamp up. Leave overnight if possible

Make the base

A biscuit joint connects the pieces. I spent time getting the top edges flush to keep the unit without twist and to avoid having to spend time planing the edges flush later.

An offcut from the door panels was glued in place on top of the base.

Fitting the door

I used butt hinges, and these were carefully recessed into position. You can use a laminate trimmer or small router to cut out the recess for the hinge.

I have started using a router hand plane for this sort of work and find this far superior for small jobs like this.

The router plane is quiet, fast to set up, and without the racket and danger of an electric router. I decided to opt for a routed finger pull near the top of the door instead of a knob.

Instead of a catch, I fitted rare earth magnets into some countersunk holes just above the finger pull

Assembly and polishing

The tower is fixed to the base by screwing in four screws from underneath. A small panel separates the cabinet from the base I fixed the back panel to the tower with screws in countersunk holes. Wood plugs go in the holes to hide the screws.

You could just glue on the back, but it is easier to polish the piece without the back on, better to polish everything first, fix the back then tap in the wood plugs and touch up the plugs with polish.

Image/Diagram

Bookends

The easiest way to make a bookend that works is to evaluate why typical bookends - both heavyweights and lightweights-fall down on the job. The Shop Info box on the next page highlights some of the things you have to take into consideration when designing bookends. After reading it, you'll understand exactly why the Bookends here look the way they do (and why some different-looking bookends might not work so well under pressure).

Materials

The main part of the Bookends (the L-shape) is made from solid 4/ 4 oak, for looks and strength. The base plate that slides under the books is actually made of brass. But don't worry about cutting this thin metal - il's made easy with a simple hardboard backing

(4) No. 8 X 1 ¼ inch woodscrews

(8)  No. 6 X ½ inch brass screws

(2) 1/16 inch thick brass (3-inch x 6 inches)

WOOD

Base 2-  ¾ x 5- 3 ½

Base 2- ¾ x 4-8

Steps:

RECESS BASE

It's best to cut the recess first and then cut the plate to fit snug in the recess. To do this, use an 'h" straight bit in the router table.

Adjust the router, so the bit sticks up above the table the thickness of the plate  (Use the plate material itself as a gauge.)

SET FENCE.

To establish the size of the recess. Set up the router table using the fence and two stop blocks.

To set the length of the recess, position the fence 2" from the far side of the bit

SET STOPS.

Then stops are used to control the width.

l clamped plywood scraps to the router table, so their edges were 4'' from either side of the bit Then, 1 routed the recess, using the fence and stops to control the limits of the cuts

CLEAN UP CORNERS.

After the recess has been routed in the base, square the corners with a chisel.

M KE TltE PLATE

Now the plate can be installed.

This takes two steps: cutting the plate to size and fastening it in position.

CUTTING THIN MATERIAL.

Cutting thin material on a table saw is tricky. The problem is the edge that overhangs the slot in the table insert vibrates as the blade cuts, and the edge ends up ragged.

To help prevent these problems, I backed the base plate with hardboard 

CUT TO SIZE.

Now cut the plate and hardboard to size on the table saw. Begin by sawing off one side to make sure one edge of the plate and hardboard is even).

Note: Brass is very soft and is easy to cut witl1 a carbide-tipped saw blade. Next, set the fence to the width of the recess in the base.

With the freshly-cut edge against the fence, rip the plate to the width, and test the fit in the base. Then cut it to a length of 6".

END PROFILE.

After the plate is cut to size, cut a semicircle, in the end, that will slip under the books. To do this, first, draw the arc on the backing.

Then, clamp the piece with the hardboard side up, cut the curve to shape with a jigsaw, and file it smooth.

CHAMFER EDGES.

Before installing the plate, chamfer its edges on the router table. To do this, set the height of the chamfer bit, so it takes just a tiny cut off the edge. Then, with the plate facing down, guide it past the bit with the hardboard riding on the bearing. Finally, smooth the chamfer with 220-grit silicon carbide paper. Then

carefully separate the plate from the hardboard and knock off the other sharp edges with the sandpaper.

MOUNT THE PLATE

After the edges are smooth, the plate can be mounted to the base.

This is where the method will differ slightly, depending on wheU1er the plate is plastic laminate or brass.

PLASTIC LAMINATE.

A plastic laminate plate can be glued to the base with epoxy.

Begin by roughing up the surface that will be mounted in the recess with 60-grit sandpaper. Then glue the plate in place.

BRASS.

To mount the brass plate, I used a stick that dates back to the days when gunmakers would inlay decorative brass matchboxes on the stocks of woods.

The trick involves fastening the plate with brass screws, then filing off the screw heads flush with the plate.

INSTALL SCREWS.

To install the screws, position the plate in the base recess.

Then. Drill pilot holes through the plate and into the base.

COUNTERSINK.

After drilling the pilot holes, countersink just deep enough, so the screw head is just partway into the plate. (the screw slot should be a little higher than the plate surface.)

FILE FLUSH.

After the screws are tightened, file the heads off flush with the plate. This gets rid of the screw slot. Leaving a solid brass "rivet" holding the plate to the base. Then sand and polish the bottom of the plate smooth.

Image/Diagram

Bottle Rack

Materials:

Electric drill

Table saw with blade

Kitchen cabinet

Board (1 x 6 inch)

Wood screws

Pencil

Directions:

DIY Wine Rack

Materials:

Electric drill

Table saw with blade

Kitchen cabinet

Board (1 x 6 inch)

Wood screws

Pencil

Directions:

Use a saw to cut the pallet while keeping the height of the wine rack almost 16 to 17 inches.

Two boards are required to design the bottom of the wine rack, and you can use the center of the pallet to cut some boards and use a hammer and a pry bar to use the boards. You need to do it carefully because any carelessness can crack the board.

You need three smaller pieces of board to hold glasses and the bottom. Cut the bigger section of the pallet, use nails to fix it. The pieces should be cut along the length of the board. A hand saw can be helpful to cut the board.

Sand down the pallets with the help of 120 grit and 220 grit because you need a smooth finish. Make holes for wine glasses and bottles. A hole of 40 inches will be enough for standard size glass or bottle. You will make three holes with a distance of 4 inches. You can use a hand drill as well to make holes, but make sure to mark holes.

Take a piece of wood and mark for each cut, and use a saw to cut the wood after sanding the rough edges. You can join the boards together with the help of screws. You can use the wall stud to fix the rack on the wall.

Divider for Partition in Room

Materials:

Table saw, or hand saw

Pencil, Ruler, and Chisel

Sandpaper and Drill

Screwdriver and Primer

Saw and Sawhorse

Pallet wood

2 hinges and Marker

Screws

Stain and Paint

Paintbrushes and Stencils

Directions:

In the first step, it is important to measure the height of the divider and then divide the pallet wood according to it. Keep different parts with the help of a screw or nails. Carefully take measurements and place upper and lower hinges in the upper and lower directions.

Sand the hinge wood is important; therefore, you should use sandpaper to remove the sand. It will be an easy way to design a partition for your room in various colors, styles, and art.

Hinged Box

Materials and Tools:

Measuring Tape or Ruler

Mitre Box and Saw or Table Saw

Wood Glue

Clamps

Wood. (1) four-foot 1x4

One Nail, 2” Long

Drill with Two bits

Sand Paper

Scrap Lumber

Cut the board into the following sizes:

(3) 6” Pieces

(2) 4 ¼” Pieces

7 ½” Piece

¾” by ¾” Blocks

3” by ¾” Block, Round one end with a sander or sandpaper.

Steps:

For the Box :

Begin with your two six-inch pieces and glue them together in an ‘L” shape. The edges should be lined up carefully.

Clamp that and let it dry for an hour.

Unclamp and glue the two end pieces.

Clamp the ends in place and let dry for an hour.

Unclamp and glue the last six-inch piece.

Clamp and let dry overnight.

For the Hinge and Top:

Take the ¾” square block, just one, and the 3” by ¾” block with the rounded end, and drill through the center with a larger drill bit.

Take the final ¾” block and drill through the center with the smaller bit.

Test fit the screw by passing it through the larger holed block and into the smaller holed block. Do not tighten anything.

Leave the pieces assembled.

Place your 7 ½” piece on top of the finished box so that you have a level surface for the hinge assembly.

Find the mid-point of the back, vertical piece, and mark it with a sharpie. It should be three inches.

Glue the two squares in place and tighten. When it’s settled, remove the screw, three-inch block, and the top piece.

After the glue has set, reassemble the three-inch block and top, and leave the clamps in place.

Make sure the top is square and glue the three-inch block down. Be sure that the glue is away from the back edge.

Let it dry overnight.

Unclamp in the morning and see if everything is working smoothly.

Remove the top before sanding and paint as desired.

Chapter 9. Projects with Router Table and Table Saw (Part II)

Picture Frame

Materials and Tools Needed:

Poplar wood

Table saw

Router

Wood glue

Rabbet joint

Miter gauge

Nails or screws

How to Make it :

Choose the material of the frame (poplar is usually used) and the thickness. Then with a table saw, cut it to the desired width.

You may design the piece of stock uniquely by rounding or shaping it. The most convenient way to do this is a router and a router table. A round-over bit makes the frame sculpted and smooth by eliminating any sharp edges. It will also conceal any transitions that occur in between the pieces.

As you are gluing two flat pieces, make sure to evenly spread the glue into a thin layer. After spreading the glue, use a spring clamp after each 6-inch.

When the glue dries up, remove the corner wherein two wood pieces are attached with glue, using another kind of router bit. In order to make the round, smooth face of the frame, make use of a cove box bit. After shaping, change the bit to square and on the backside, cut a rabbet joint. It should be adequately deep to hold the glass which will be at the front of your photograph, painting, or any other artwork.

Shape the third piece of stock with the router, position it with glue, and allow drying while keeping it clamped.

For the frame, cut the miters with the help of a table saw. Make use of a miter gauge to be sure that you are maintaining the correct and uniform angle for all the joints. Use a stock block so that each frame piece has a similar length.

Construct a jig to line up the pieces correctly before you glue them. In this way, it becomes very convenient to build a frame. Just screw or nail a square stock piece to the bench, and then line up the frame joints appropriately with the help of the square corners. Set the corners around the jig after applying glue. Then, use a pin nailer to affix them.

Once the glue has set, paint, stain or finish the frame. Now you are ready to insert the picture.

A Box with Lid

Tools and the materials needed:

Measuring tape or a ruler

Saw or table saw and a miter box

Small clamps

Glue

Wood of 1x4

Sandpapers

Directions:

Starting from the end, measure and cut these and try to do this precisely.

Prepare 4-7-inch-long boards, 1-8 ½ inch board, and 2-5-inch boards.

If you clamp the wood piece into the miter box, the cutting will be easy for you. You must not sand any edges before gluing them. Many people will give a fast swipe to clean these edges, but by doing that, the straight edge of the board will be wrecked and when after you do the gluing there will be gaps. If there are any chipped edges, you can smooth them with your finger and then glue.

Wall-Mounted Desk

Purchase all the required material in advance to prevent any difficulty or inconvenience.

Supplies/Materials:

Finish grade plywood (my desktop is 16″ x 40″)

1 – 2″ x 4″ x 93″

Painter's Tape

2 – 9.5″ x 9.5″ bird's mouth brackets

Paint

Pencil

4 – 3″ cabinet mounting screws

Paintbrush

Drill bits

Drill

Level

Instructions:

First, decide where you like your desk to be set. You can illustrate the desk room with the painter's tape on the ground for a clearer context.

Split plywood to scale for your finish standard. It is much better to use the Kreg Rip Saw along with my miter saw than to push the table saw and have an aid to help raise the plywood. You can cut nearly everywhere if you place a bit of rigid foam insulation beneath. Just establish the depth of your saw blade slightly under the plywood.

Split the 2′′ x 4′′ stud 4′′ shorter than the top surface length of the desk. (My desktop is 40′′ long, so my mounting hold is 36′′ long.) Identify the grips in your wall—label where they are housed.

Now pre-drill holes at the positions of the stud in the mounting plate. Utilize your screws a little bit tighter than yours. And use the screw head diameter to build a countersink hole to a larger piece. Drag mounting screws of the cabinet through one side of the mounting plate, then into the stud. Using a bracket to determine the stability of the mounting board, then push the extra mounting screws through the other studs.

Cut 2 bits of 8′′ length, 2′′x4′′. These will generate bracket assistance for the shelf. Bevel the edge at an angle of 45 degrees as you split them for a smooth feel. Add the parts 2′′ x 4′′ under each edge of the mounting board.

Place two tiny screws within the keyholes of the shelf frame. Position the bracket up with the highest point of the mounting board and station it on the already connected vertical supports to the wall. Develop a pencil spot on which to place the screws.

Using the pencil to map on the screws the width of the keyholes, and you know how hard it is to push the screws through the bracket structure.

Connect the tiny screws to the vertical support at the place where the pencil marks were and drive them to the level where each screw is marked.

Slide the bracket into the screws.

Pre-drill one hole via the tip of the bracket and through the mounting board for additional protection. Pre-drill a second hole at the narrowest level, into the bird's eye bracket.

Push the screws in the two pre-drilled holes to connect the shelf brackets close to the mounting boards.

Repeat for bracket two.

Rest the desktop surface on the tip of the brackets. You may either push tiny screws into the desktop and into the mounting board. Or push a tiny screw up through the bracket's floor and into the desktop. I chose the latter, as the desk surface won't have to be putty wood.

Wood putty all the holes. Permit the putty to dry and sand to smooth the putty. Paint the mounting boards, brackets, and desktop.

Let the paint run dry. You can want to paint some coats of polycyclic on top if you choose to secure the desk surface.

Floating Bookshelves

Purchase all the required material in advance to prevent any difficulty or inconvenience.

Supplies/Materials:

2x6 oak

Drill/driver

Clamps

Miter saw

Drill press

3/8" plug cutter

Table saw

1-1/2 in. FH Screws

Instructions:

Rip a bevel of 45 degrees to one side of the 2x6. Rip out of the beveled lip, so the off-cut is 1-1/2 inches x for 1-1/2-in. Split two 6-in. Lengths for beveled parts. Create one more rip at 1-1/2-in. By the groups.

3/8-in fire. I was using just a Forstner bit counter-bores to the edge of every side. Clamp the supports and create pilot holes simultaneously. Cut the clamps and cut a safety hole into the sides of the counter-bores. Attach the sides with 1-1/2-in at the beveled ends. Screws flat-headed.

Utilizing the drill press as well as a 3/8-inches cutter plug, pick the plugs out with a chisel. Use 3/8-inches if you do not possess a drill press & a set of insert cutters. Instead, you dowel house.

Glue in and put in the counter-bores. Use a wet towel to clean out the remaining adhesive. Let the adhesive warm. Using a handsaw to remove the flush pin, cover the surface of the wood with a sheet of cardboard and then wash. Complete the shelves as you like.

Wood Board

Purchase all the required material in advance to prevent any difficulty or inconvenience.

Supplies/Materials:

Sanding block

Hardwood board

Butcher block or any type of material safe for food

Paintbrush

Instructions:

You may take an off cast part of tiny hardwood and easily sand down the sides to build the easy cheese plate. When you choose to cut a big piece of fit, use a table saw (or hire support if you don't have the tools or the resources to do that), you can break the board down to size. Clean along the sides of the wooden board easily to get ahold of the splinters and brush away the remaining sawdust with a dry rag.

Set up a dirty work surface (such as a newspaper or a sheet of broad cardboard) and add butcher block finishing to all board edges and to all sides. Using the paintbrush to spray gently, then scatter equally. Let the wood soak up the polish and brush out any remaining finishing globs. Enable the finishing can to dry for the amount of time, as shown on the label.

When the board is dry and rising, get started working.

Plank Headboard

Purchase all the required material in advance to prevent any difficulty or inconvenience.

Supplies/Materials:

Drill/Driver and Bits

Air Compressor and Hose

Table Saw

Wire Wheel Brush Drill Attachment

Pneumatic Nailer

Boards

Polycrylic Finish

Sandpaper

Nails

Water-Based Interior Stain

Instructions:

Apply a worn pattern on the boards. Use an electric drill to mount a coarse wire brush and lock a plate to a work surface. Match the movement of the brush with the grain of the wood, then brush the top portion and side of the board in alignment with the grain.

Apply a water-based shaded stain paint, then let it dry.

Sand the boards to reveal bare wood, just enough. Spray over wood two coats of water-based polyacrylic paint, then let it dry.

Decide on a headboard level. Build a pattern by having rows consisting of various lengths of wood. The measurements are calculated, and the boards cut appropriately.

Find studs, then mark them.

Before nailing, pre-drill holes into the boards to make sure the wood won't split. Then, starting with the bottom row, Fix the wood to the wall, left to right. Directly drive the nails into the studs to safely fasten the boards onto the wall. Be sure every item is leveled when you move. Make your way back, line by line.

Platform Bed

Materials:

1” 3 12” pine

1” 3 6” pine

3/4” plywood

10 L-brackets and screws

2 1/2” screws

6d finish nails

Square

Circular saw, or power miter saw

Table saw and dado blade or router table and 3/4” straight bit

Drill, 1/8” bit, and 3/8” flatbottom bit

Drill press and 3/8” plug cutter

Chisel or plane

Sander

Steps:

Measure the mattress you will be using on your bed. Subtract two feet from the length and width of the mattress. This is the size of the box that will be built to support the platform

Use the 1” 3 12” pine to build the box. Use simple butt joints to attach the sides to the ends. Counterbore 3/8” holes 3/8” deep; drill 1/8” pilot holes, and use 2 1/2” screws. Using 1” 3 12”s will result in a low bed. If you desire a higher bed, glue up material to reach the desired height. 4. Use the plug cutter on the drill press to make plugs to fill the counterbores you made in the base. Glue in place; when dry, plane or chisel flush with the surrounding surface.

Add 1 1/2” to the length and width of the mattress and cut the 3/4” plywood to these dimensions. If you are building a twin bed, a single sheet of plywood will be enough. A bigger bed will require two sheets. If two sheets are needed, the joint between the two should run across the width of the bed. The two pieces should be reinforced from below using pine or plywood scrap glued and screwed in place. Center the base on the plywood platform and fasten them together with the L-brackets.

Turn the bed right side up. 8. Joint, rip, and joint the 1” 3 6” material to 5 1/4” wide. Mill a 3/4” dado 1/4” deep in the 1” 3 6” material. Cut the 1” 3 6” material to fit around the plywood. Pieces should run the length of the long sides, with the ends fit between them. Counterbore 3/8” holes 3/8” deep and predrill for the screws using a 1/8” bit. Spread glue in the dados on the rails, fit onto the plywood and attach the side rails to the head and foot rails with 2 1/2” screws. Drive 6d finish nails through the rails into the plywood, spacing them about 10 inches apart.  Make plugs and glue into the counterbored holes. When the glue is dry, plane or chisel flush. Sand and finish as desired.

Pull-out Drawer

Supplies/Materials:

1” of Kreg screws

½” of cabinet ranking plywood of 2’x4’ (you might also use ¾” plywood and also get 1.25” of screws)

Orbital sander

2 – 21” of drawer slide

Plywood (2’x4’) or ¼” of MDF

Kreg Jig (in small size)

Table saw (or the router to make dado)

Wood clamps (non-compulsory)

Drill

Jigsaw

Cutting List:

1 of 22”x12 ¼” (bottommost)

2 of 22 ½”x10” (edges)

2 of 22 ¼”x9 ½” (1/4” of MDF dividers)

1 of 13 ¼”x6” (forward-facing)

1 of 12 ¼”x10” (rear)

Instructions:

Build two ¼” dados on the top, center, and back sections after cutting all the sections.

Creating a 4” dado on all sides of the lowest part and rear bits (would then appear as this= 4” then 1/4” dado then 3.75” after this 1/4” dado then 4”). The front portion is 1” larger than the rear and lower bits, so build the 4.5” dice on all parts of the front piece (looks like this= 4.5” then 1/4” dice 3.75” then 1/4” dice 4.5” instead). Ensure both boards are in full configuration.

First, build the side parts angle (it's not a rectangular panel, that way)—Mark the front of every side piece to be equal with the front drawer part to do so.

Consider where you expect the wood to begin at an angle after labeling, and map a line to link the two points together. First, take a jigsaw (with a standard blade) and remove the two side sections and the MDF pieces down the line.

Then, build wooden Kreg Jig pockets. Create two slots in front of the drawer for the two side pieces to attach the drawer's forepart to the side pieces. Put six pockets on the back of the cabinet.

Then put 14 pockets to the bottom of the stack.

After forming pockets, this is time to smoothly polish the wood using the orbital sander with # 220 grit sandpaper. When all the wood was sanded, it was time to mount the cabinet.

With the front of the drawer, put it horizontally on a hard floor, then mount the sides around it and the bottom bits. Then add the drawer's sides to a front bit and the bottom piece to ensure that the arrangement is right.

Also, be sure that you place pressure on the drawer's sides when adding to ensure sure there is no difference (this is where a clamp is helpful). And equally, add the edge of the drawer to the front of the container.

                      Next, connect the box slides to the cabinet. Decide to place the slides at the bottom of the box so that you could not see the slides.

Woodwork Plan for a Basic Bookshelf

This woodwork plan is perfect for beginners. Keep in mind that a lot of types of equipment are not necessary to get this done. This project is incredibly easy to do. It could even be your first woodwork project.

Photo Source: this old house

Materials:  

Router

Electric drill

Power sander

Cut off saw

Two pieces of 1 x 12 and ¾ of an inch-thick pine wood

Four pieces of 1 x 11 and ¾ of an inch think pine wood

One piece of 1 x 4 wood

Table saw

Clamps

Carpenter’s square

Deck screw

4d finish nails

Tape measure

Wood glue

Screw gun

Screws

¾” nail for the back

Directions:

Sand the wood pieces to improve the texture.

The longer pieces (1 x 12) will be upright. So, you need to cut a little dado or a slot. It has to be ¾ wide and ¼ inch deep. It will give a place for the shorter shelf boards. To go up into the wood and be securely connected to the longer wood. 

Cut the two dadoes across the boards using a router. You can also ensure this with a table saw if you don’t have a router.

Sand again, the dadoes using a power sander. After the wood is sanded, assemble the shelves using wood glue. Place the glue on the bottom of the dadoes to give an added strength. Then place the boards into the dado slots. Start on one edge and then wiggle it around. Use a hammer to secure the shelf into the dado slots. Next, clamp it in tight to let the glue set. Then clamp it overnight. 

Take out the clamp. You may need to put a little reinforcement, so put in screws in on the side using a screw gun.

Put them back onto the shelf. Cut it conferring to the length and width of your shelf and then nail it to your shelf. If you want, you can paint your shelf.

Chapter 10.                   Projects for Refined Furniture (Part I)

Rustic Table Lamp

We could all use a suitable table lamp. What night in, reading your favorite book, would be complete without it? The latest thriller and the first bulb of a table lamp go hand in hand. And so, many other uses for this ubiquitous yet handy piece of indoor furniture.

Materials:

1 1 x 2 board.

Directions:

Take the 1 x 2 and use an electric saw to cut it into two equal pieces.

Now use one of the pieces as the base and take another piece

Stand it up on one of the ends of the base

Drill two diagonal holes in the corner running from the outside of one board to the inside of another. These are your pocket holes with which you can attach the boards.

Within these holes, secure the assembly in place with two woodworking screws.

Next, cut a 3-inch diameter hole in the center of the upright portion of the base. It is where you can insert your light bulb.

Now simply run an extension cord from the bulb to the wall outlet, and your rustic tale lamp is ready!

Coffee Table

Tools you will need:

Drill

Hot glue gun

Paint or stain

Chest or suitcase

Staple gun

Measuring tape

Legs and Storage containers

Top plate hardware

Velvet or fabric

Wallpaper

Cording or trim

Wooden dividers

Directions:

Sand the pallet woods and then paint them to complement the colors of your chest. Carefully examine the chest and remove any torn fabric to give a neat look to your coffee table storage.

Measure the legs and then prepare all four legs to secure them at a right place. You can use a machine gun to fix nails and use wooden dividers to make small compartments. It will be good to decorate your wooden dividers with wallpaper.

Pallet Plank Shelf

What you’ll Need :

Two pallet planks that are at least as long as you want the shelf to be

A power saw (hand saw will do nicely for this project)

Sand paper

Paint or varnish (your choice once again here)

Wood screws

Hooks for clothes hanging

Tape measure

Picture hangers   

Directions:

Measure the wall where you wish to put your shelf (or hold the planks against the wall and mark where you’ll need to cut)

Cut both of your planks to the right length

Using your drill and the wood screws, attach the two planks together in a 90-degree fashion, lengthwise (look at the finished image if you’re unsure of this step). Drill holes for your screws first, to prevent splitting of the wood.   

Mark where you want to put your hooks. If you don’t have real hooks, you can use anything of similar shape, like cupboard knobs (see the image). You can place these evenly, or however you like. 

Now that your holes are marked, it’s time to drill some holes, and then attach your hooks. 

The screws or bolts that you’ve used to attach the hooks might stick out of the back of the shelf. You can’t put it up on the wall like that, so you’ll need to (carefully) saw the excess metal off at the back. Smooth this down with sandpaper so it won’t scratch your walls up. 

Now you can attach the picture hangers on the back of the shelf, spaced far enough to provide a lot of balance. If you don’t have these, you can get away with using some strong wire. Make sure it’s not going to break and let the shelf drop. 

Now you can hang your shelf, as you would a big painting. 

Leather Strap Shelf

Materials:

Screw gun

Staple gun

1-inch-wide leather strap

1x6 inch plywood

Paint (Any color will do)

Directions:

Paint the plywood and let it dry for a few minutes.

Bring the ends of the 1-inch leather strap together. Fold the ends over twice. Then, fold the ends of the strap to the wall using a screw gun.

Slip the painted plywood into the leather loop. The leather strap should be at least three inches from the shelf end. Ask someone to hold the second leather strap and then slide the other end of the painted plywood into the second ribbon loop. 

Use a level to ensure that the shelf is straight. Then affix the second leather strap into the wall using a screw gun. Secure the leather straps under the plywood using a staple gun. 

Solid Book Case

Materials and Tools Needed:

Birch Plywood

Table saw and mitered saw

Router rabbet

Finish nails

Wood glue

Finished poplar pieces

Wood filler

Sanding materials

Wood stain

How to Make:

Step 1: Determine the size and dimension for every part.

Step 2: With the dimension that you have, cut out the interior shelves, sides and top from a ¾-inch birch plywood. Use a table saw for cutting the birch plywood, which usually comes in 4-feet x 8-feet sheets. Take care to maintain the desired width but do not worry about whether proper height is maintained at this point.

Step 3: With the help of a mitered saw, cut interior shelves, side panels and top according to desired length. The miter saw gives a more controlled, cleaner cut compared to the table saw, especially when the pieces of lumber are small. For very large dimensions, use a table saw.

Step 4: Using a router rabbet, cut the interior shelves into the frame’s two side panels. Place the two side panels beside each other on a table and screw a scrap wood piece across the two ends, so that the rabbet grooves remain in the same position. Draw a ¾-inch strip with a T-square across the two side panels after locating the position of your first shelf. Repeat this for every shelf you put.

Step 5: Now, you need to router the grooves out. As a guide for driving the router, clamp a straight or level edge along the freshly marked shelf lines.

Step 6: With finish nails and wood glue, affix both the side panels to the top. Apply glue to the rabbet joints and slide the shelves one by one for installing them. Add finish nails when the shelves are in place. If the unit is to be hanged on the wall, take a 2-inch wood strip and glue and nail it on the top back edge. This will be used as the cleat.

Step 7: When the unit is completed, conceal the rough edges of plywood by using 1-¼-inch nicely finished poplar pieces. You may use a decorative molding for the shelf faces.

Step 8: Dry the wood glue for a day, and then smoothly sand it, filling the nail holes with stainable or paintable wood putty. Wipe off the sawdust or debris with a tack cloth and stain or paint the unit for the preferred look. 

Chapter 11.                   Projects for Refined Furniture (Part II)

Upcycled Picnic Table

What you will need:

Pallets

Hammer

Nails

Stain

Saw

Pencil

Screwdriver

Screws

Measuring tape

Directions:

Start by completely disassembling the pallets, and set all the wood aside in the piles it belongs in.

Next, take your pencil and measuring tape and measure equal lengths for the legs of the table. I cut mine to be 4 feet long, angled at both ends to stand flat on the ground while supporting the table at the top.

Cut these and set them aside.

Next, you will need to set aside 18 of the boards. These will be cut to be a total of 6 feet and laid end to end on the frame. You now have all the wood you need for the legs and the top of the table, so all you need is the two boards to support either side.

Start by laying out two legs side by side, then screwing two boards to equal 9 feet across these boards. These are the support arms for the seat, so place them across the legs, as you see in the photo. Repeat on the other side.

Stand the legs on end, propping them against a wall, and screw the board on lengthwise to each end of the legs. You are now making the bench and top of the table.

I suggest you add more boards in the center beneath the table for added support after you have screwed the mainframe in place. Once this is entirely assembled, sand down all of the rough edges. Apply a stain first, then paint the color of your choice. That's it! Your new picnic table is ready for a party!

Quirky Office Desk

What you will need:

Pallets

Extra poles for the legs

Paint

Hammer

Nails

Stain

Saw

Pencil

Measuring tape

Directions:

Remove all the wood from one pallet and cut the lengths of the board in half. Screw these in place on the second pallet, then sand it down, so you don't have to worry about splinters.

Make sure there are no cracks or rough spots, then stain. Once the stain has dried, flip the piece over.

Paint all four poles the color of your choice, and place them at equal distances at the bottom of your table. Screw securely in place.

Make sure there are no rough spots, and your new table is ready for action!

Practical Pallet Chair

What you will need:

Pallets

Hammer

Nails

Stain

Saw

Pencil

Measuring tape

Directions:

Start by completely disassembling the pallet. You may need 2, so go ahead and take apart 2.

You are going to need 16 boards that are 2 feet long, cut these. You will also need four boards that are 4 feet long, two boards that are 3 feet long (cut these with their legs at an angle to sit on the floor), and one support board.

Sand all of these smooth, and lay them out. Screw all 16 boards at an angle; these are the seat of the chair, use the screw both sets of 4-foot longboards at right angles, then use the photo once more to see where to place the feet of the chair.

Screw the entire piece together, and apply a stain. Let dry, and use a cushion over the top.

Rustic Drinks Cooler

If you’d like to learn to make your own outdoor-style cooler that’s rustic, and made from pallets, this is the perfect project for you. You’ll only need one variety of saw for this build, making it great for people who have a limited number of tools. Once you wrap your head around the tutorial, and you have all of the required gear together, this project should just take a day to put together. 

What you’ll Need:

At least 5 pallets

A power washer (if you can’t scrub the wood by hand)

Dremel saw

Your cooler of choice, of the right size, of course

Impact drill

Wood working pencil (or a normal pencil)

Measuring tape

Screwdriver (flat head)

Hammer

Pliers

Prying bar

Wood screws (exterior type)

Strong bond wood glue

Bolts

Hinges

T-nuts

Bore drill bit 

Bibb for hose

Handle

PVC coupling (some coolers won’t require this)

A handle

Directions:

Once you have your pallets, you will want to scrub them down, or preferably use a power washer to get them nice and clean. The wood will come up very nicely if you do use a power washer.

Remove the planks of wood from your pallets. Make sure that you have enough to cover the sides of the cooler, with the planks running horizontally.   

Take off the wheels, handles, latches, and hinges from the cooler, and any other hardware parts that will get in the way when you put it into the wooden structure, you’ll be making next.

Your cooler is going to need four legs. Take 8 slats of wood (depending on how big yours are) and cut 32-inch length pieces. 

Join 2 of your slacks together at 90 degrees’ length-wise, with screws and glue. Be sure to pre-drill before inserting screws, to avoid splitting the wood. Do this again, making two lips for the top lengths of your cooler.    

Join the lips with two lengths of wood. 

Measure the cooler’s height and work out how many wood planks you’ll need to make the sides. 

To make a leg, join two lengths of wood at 90 degrees, as you did with the top lip. Make sure they’re long enough to go from the top of the cooler to the ground, past the base of the cooler. 

You can now join your top lip, side’s pieces, and legs together, as in the image. 

To make the lid, create two lips again, join them with short plank pieces, and use plank lengths to cover the top.    

Attach the lid with your hinges and you are good to go!

Indoor Pallet Swing Chair

After the long hectic day, you want to release your stress and tension. One of the easiest things that you can do in this regard is that make an indoor pallet swing chair for your home by yourself. This is really a great woodworking project for those who love swing. 

But before starting this project make sure that the roof of your home is strong enough to support this swing chair and your weight as well. If the roof is not that much strong then don’t choose it for indoors rather choose it for outdoors. 

To make this indoor swing chair you need to gather and secure some pallets. Paint them in white and place a cozy white mattress over it. But before placing the mattress you need to do some other things. Such as use some rope or metal chair to fasten this swing chair with the roof (or with tree in case of outdoors). 

What you will Need:

•           Vertical boards of pallet wood

•           Nails and hammer

•           150-grit sandpaper

•           Glue and nail gun

Directions:

Take wood pallets and cut them into vertical pieces to make a photo frame. Sand the wood with 150-grit sandpaper after cutting the wood.

You can select the shape and design of your photo frame and fix all wooden boards with nails and the hammer. You can also use a nail gun to fix pallets to each other.

It will be good to choose a white or brown paint to give a unique touch to your photo frame. The size of the pallet wood boards will be based on your personal requirement of a photo frame. You can increase or decrease it as per your preferences.

Chapter 12.                   Projects for Kids (Part I)

Chalkboard Town

A chalkboard house can also double as message board.

Use flat houses for this project.

You will need:

Flat wooden buildings, about one to one and a half inch thick.

Sandpaper.

Chalk paint.

Paintbrush or sponge.

Chalk.

Directions:

Sand the wooden houses so they are smooth and wipe off any loose sawdust.  If you want to paint the sides of the houses, do this first, giving the paint plenty of time to dry before proceeding. 

Paint the flat surfaces of the houses with at least two coats of chalkboard paint, allowing the paint to dry thoroughly between each coat.  

When all the paint is dry, use colored chalk to draw in windows, doors, and other details.  

Craft Stick Jewelry Box

You can do all sorts of things with wooden craft sticks.  This project will give you a nice jewelry box.  

You will need:

Craft sticks.

Craft knife.

Wood glue or hot glue.

1 felt square.

Scissors.

Several buttons.

Directions:

Make a square with the craft sticks sitting side by side, vertically.  Put glue all along another stick and place it horizontally, inset about a half inch from the edge, to hold the square together.  Do the same on the other side.  

Over this square, make a square with the craft sticks overlapping their edges in a clockwise manner, gluing at the ends.  Build up the four sides as high as you like. 

It will look like log cabin walls.  To make the lid of the box do the same as with the bottom.  The two horizontal sticks holding the square together will be the inside of the lid. 

Turn the lid right side up and glue several buttons on top of one another in the center for a handle.  Cut a square of felt to fit the inside bottom of the box and glue it in.  

Balsa Book Cover

A balsa cover can really add some pizzazz to your scrapbooking. You can also use this project to make a handmade journal.  You can keep it for yourself or give it to a friend.  You’ll be making both front and back covers, then binding them to your chosen pages.  

You will need:

balsa sheets (optionally, use a third sheet for ornamentation).

Craft knife.

Emery board.

Ruler.

Pencil.

Hammer and nail.

Nylon or leather string.

Scissors.

Paper pages to put between the covers.

Directions:

Cut two pieces of balsa wood, measuring about one inch larger than the paper you plan to use.  Use the emery board to smooth the edges.  You can add class to your front cover by gluing strips of contrasting grain or pieces of different colored balsa to the top. You’ll want to complete any painting or wood burning embellishments to this cover before you go any further.  

Measure down the left side of the cover about three quarters of an inch from the edge. Evenly space where you will place three holes, marking the spot with a pencil.  Mark the same hole locations on the back cover.  Use a hammer and nail to create holes at the appropriate locations.  Punch holes in the paper to match the holes in the covers.  

Starting at the bottom hole of the back cover, bring the string up through the bottom hole leaving a 10-inch tail hanging.  Thread this string through the bottom hole in the paper and up through the bottom hole of the front cover.  Pass the string through the front cover’s middle hole, passing it through the paper and the back cover.  Then, pass the string back up through the top hole, from back to front.  Take the string and bring it down through the middle hole again all the way to the back cover.  Turn the book over and securely knot the tail with the end of the string you just passed through to the back.  Trim the string so that both tails are even.  

Balsa Wood Bookmark

Balsa wood is light, strong, and usually very thin; it is most often used on models and is fairly easy to find in most craft stores.  Thin strips of balsa wood can make wonderful bookmarks.  

You will need:

Balsa strip.

Craft knife.

Emery board.

Nail and hammer.

Ribbon.

Acrylic paint.

Clear acrylic spray.

Directions:

Using a craft knife, cut the balsa wood into a strip about five inches long.  It doesn’t work to use scissors on balsa wood because it causes the wood to split along the grain.  To cut it, score the wood with a sharp knife and bend it until it breaks.  You can use the emery board to sand the edges until they are smooth.  

Take a nail and hammer it through the top center of the balsa wood, into a block of wood.  When you remove the nail, you’ll have a neat hole in your bookmark.  

Paint the bookmark any way you wish.  Balsa is very porous; it will quickly soak up any paint you give it and can warp if it gets too much – so use as little paint as possible.  Balsa wood can be easily decorated with a wood burner, though.  Just remember it burns faster than more dense woods.

When you’re finished decorating your bookmark, cut 10 inches of ribbon, strings it through the hole made by the nail and ties the ribbon together.  You can braid several ribbons together or make ornamental knots along its length, as you wish.   

Cutting Board

Make your own wooden cutting board.

Always use untreated wood when making a cutting board.  You want to avoid leaching chemicals from the wood into your food. 

You will need:

Untreated hardwood – Oak is best – from a half inch to one inch thick and as big as you want it.

Circular saw.

Sandpaper – medium grit.

Food grade mineral oil (also known as cutting board or butcher block oil).

Clean cotton cloth.

Directions:

Cut the wood to the desired size and shape. 

Wipe the board free of any dust or debris.  Sand the edges until they are smooth and wipe it clean.

Liberally apply the mineral oil and use the clean cloth to rub it into the wood. 

Wipe in the direction of the grain. 

Let it dry before turning the board over and oiling the opposite side. 

Repeat the oiling process four more times, letting the oil soak in well.  

To care for your cutting board, do not immerse it in water and never put it in the dishwasher; both of these actions will remove the necessary oils from the wood and may cause the wood to crack. 

Hand-wash your cutting board and apply additional mineral oil every three to six months.

Decorative Checkerboard

A painted wooden checkerboard

Here you use your painting skills to create a colorful game board.  You can also decorate checkers themselves if you wish, although I haven’t included these instructions in this project description.

You will need:

A piece of wood, at least 16 by 16 inches square, and about one inch thick.

Sandpaper.

Painter’s tape.

Pencil and ruler.

Brush or foam paint stick.

Clear acrylic spray.

Black and white buttons to serve as playing pieces, along with a storage bag or other container.

Directions:

Sand the wooden square, smoothing the edges and the flat surface.  Wipe all surfaces clean.  If you don’t want to use the natural wood as one of the two square colors, you can paint the entire board a single solid color.  Of your two chosen colors, you’ll want to use the lighter shade for this.  Allow the paint to dry completely before proceeding; if necessary, give it a second coat of paint to ensure even coverage.  

Use a pencil and ruler to outline two-inch squares across the checkerboard.  Following the penciled outline, carefully paint alternating squares in the second color to complete the checkerboard playing area.  If necessary, apply a second coat of paint.  

You can end matters here, if you wish.  If you want to define the playing area further, use painter’s tape to mark a straight line around the outside of the playing area.  Select a very dark color (black works best) and paint a narrow line, following your painter’s tape, around the outside of the board.  

When the paint is dry, remove the tape and lay down fresh tape along each of the horizontal lines on the board.  Paint these lines and wait for the paint to dry.  Then remove the tape and lay down fresh painter’s tape to mark the vertical lines and paint these as well.  When the paint is dry and you remove the tape, you will have a beautiful checkerboard with crisply outlined playing squares.  

To guard against wear and tear, apply a protective layer of clear acrylic spray.  Collect some black and white buttons, put them in a bag or other storage container, and use them as playing pieces.

Candy dispenser (Homemade)

Did we mention it can be satisfying to have a woodwork project? Building your candy dispenser is not only a learning experience, but it's something that the kids would love to make because it will give them candy whenever wanted by them.

This includes certain simple hand tools, and parents may have a little more research to do based on age and progress of the motor skills.

Supplies to Build a Candy Dispenser:

Given below are the different wooden parts and other materials that you would require to build this candy dispenser:

2 inches x 6 inches board, 24 inches long 

2 1 1/2 inch x 5 1/2 inch x 5 1/2 inch boards for top & base

2 1 1/2 inch x 1 3/4 inch x 5 1/2 inch boards for the sides

1-inch x 1 7/8 inch x 11 inches board for the slide

Pencil

Tape measure

Pocketknife

Wood glue

Sandpaper

1 peg or dowel which should be about 1/4 inches in diameter and 4 inches long

1 peg or dowel about which should be about1/4 inches in diameter and 2 inches long

A pint or quart metal ring canning jar 

A crosscut saw that would be used to saw over the grain

A ripsaw would be required to saw along the grain

Drill

Drill bit which would be utilized for the pre-drilling 2 1/2 inches holes

7/8 inches spade bit

Screwdriver

Countersink bit  

Screws, 12 wood, each 2 1/2 inches long

4 brads, flat-head for nailing the jar rings to the dispenser top.

A tiny drill bit that would be used to pre-drill brad holes in the jar rings

Gumballs

Jelly beans  

Building a Candy Dispenser :

Step-by-step instructions for building a candy dispenser are given below:

Cut every board as per specifications and smooth them with sand.

Then screw and glue base onto sides.

Draw an X with the pencil from the corner to the corner on top board.

Drill a 7/8 inches hole through the top board center.

Screw and glue a top board on the sides and the base. Next, the slide is sand till smoothly it moves in the dispenser center square hole.

Drill hole of 3/4 inches from the slide, front. This will be used for the 4 inches dowel or peg. Drill hole of 1/2 inches from the slide, back. This will be used for the 2 inches dowel or peg. Glue the 4 inches dowel or peg in the slide front hole.

The slide is pushed in place till it stops at 4 inches peg. A circle is drawn through the 7/8 inches hole on the slide top board.

Drill a 7/8 inches hole 3/8 inches deep in the slide.

Bevel 7/8 inches slide hole by using pocketknife & sand smooth.

                      Drill & nail jar rings onto a top board.

                      The slide is pushed into the place.  

                      With candy fill the jar as the dispenser is now complete.

Chapter 13.                   Projects for Kids (Part II)

String Art DIY on Wood

This art gives you the freedom in creating the customized pieces fitting in with your style, personalities, and color scheme. This DIY task can be easily done in less than an hr, and mostly the supplies of the string art are stuff you have, or it can easily get from the near hardware store.

This one for any of the shape templates can work and any string color scheme. You can try a classical white or something like it: it depends on you, really!

It will take at the most about 3 hours, and you and your child will be able to create this in shifts too.

Supplies to Build String Art:

Given below are the different wooden parts and other materials that you would require to build this string art:

Hammer

Wood

Many nails

String

Masking tape

Sandpaper

Template

Scissors

The wood size always depends on choice, although it is advised that you take a print of the ideal design size before heading towards the woodshop for selecting because you can see the surrounding string art, the negative space. As this creates hideous traces and attracts dust, make sure that masking tape does not leave the adhesive onto the surface.

Building a String Art:

Step-by-step instructions for building a string art are given below:

First, smooth it with sandpaper.

Take out the Model and print. Around corners be careful. Do not hammer immediately by cutting on the pattern, as there’ll be paper pieces and bits sticking onto the nails that will take more time in picking out it than simply scratching out the template.

After you have fixed the map step back to make sure it's accurate. Masking tape helps hold the diagram in position but reduces the risk of removing stain or the paint off the wood. Make sure you put the nails really close together. If you’re having difficulty, tweezers can be used by you to keep the nails in place. When hammering the nails down, the important most thing to keep in mind is that nails must be very much close to one another, allowing only enough room for string to down slipping the middle. Remember to be careful about the accurate hammering of the spikes, down wood going, and along straight lines. More closely spaced the nails the nicer and neater the art of string would be. You may opt to minimize certain sections of the diagram that have so many curves.

Place the artwork for the personal touch in your home town place! Attempt to the position that in an environment that will create a lot of straight lines as long as possible. 

Use any string color you want, or even combine string colors ... get imaginative with it!

Loop about the outer side nail, to the heart's nails, bring it, loop it, and to the next state nail, bring it. Just loop once per state nail before continuing onto the next. Nevertheless tend to use the same core nail for the successive loops. This makes between nails, nice tension. To one core tooth, about fifteen state nails there’ll be. On the preference of the crafter, this depends. Do not be scared in the string removing and start again until the needed ratio is achieved. Tie the string tail-end to the keys, so it gets fixed properly. This will definitely not be the last idea of string art you're using for creating fun 

Catapult

If you always dreamed of learning how to build a catapult, then making this homemade catapult is very easy. Moreover, it is a fun activity for kids of all ages!

Catapult Learning Connections

Listed below are some of the facts concerning catapult:

Engineering

You will learn how to build a catapult that will last long.

Science

It is fantastic for a lecture on physics. The process of pulling back and releasing can teach you about kinetic energy (energy of motion) and potential energy (stored energy). When you pull the cup back you create potential energy. When you expel the energy and start a projectile it is kinetic energy now.

Teach force and velocity. You can change the weight and size of the ball you use to catapult, and test to see if it's going a different height or distance.

History

You should be astonished to know that catapults have been around for a number of years! 

How to Build a Catapult?

This is an easy project! Most of the kids could easily make this. Moreover, you do not need to glue guns for this one!

Supplies to Build a Catapult:

Given below are the different wooden parts and other materials that you would require to build this catapult:

6 wooden dowels - 3 ft. long. These are also easily available at the craft store.

9 large rubber bands

Small plastic cup

Single-hole punch

Scissors

Small balls or any other balls of your choice to launch

Directions:

Let’s begin with building the structure of the catapult. First, make use of three of the wooden dowels. Make them into a triangle by attaching the corners with rubber bands.

Then you pick up another three dowels and attach them as a triangle. However, it must look like a pyramid. You can add one at a time. You should start from each corner of the first triangle. You then connect them using a rubber band.

Now, take the plastic cup and punch three equidistant holes in it.

Break in half three rubber bands, then attach them into the cup's gaps. The other ends of the rubber bands need to be tied to the top of the catapult, and two corners at the bottom. To make this work, you'll need some larger rubber bands. If the rubber bands are not big enough, tie on to the ends on three more runner bands so they can extend the dowels all the way down.

Place a ball in the cup, take it back and let it go! Now you've finished constructing a catapult. Everybody'll be impressed. And you need not tell them how easy it was!

Child's Bench Seat & Toy Box

The Child Bench Seat and Toy Box Plan is a simple design for the home handyman. It includes step by step instructions, drawings, List of Materials and Tips. The bench seat can be built out of a single sheet of plywood.

List of Materials for the Child Bench Seat and Toy Box:

1 sheet 4x8x3/4" pine, alder, oak G1S plywood

1 pc. 1x2x2' S4S to match the plywood

1 piano hinge 3/4x4'

Screws to fit piano hinge

2 lb. 1 1/2" casing or finish nails

Carpenter's Yellow Wood Glue

Instructions:

I kept this design simple to build. The 7 main parts are cut from a single sheet of 3/4" plywood of your choice. Always start ripping the largest piece first and work down from there.

Rip the ends out of a sheet of plywood by setting the table saw at 12" and cutting the piece 40" long. Also rip the following pieces from the sheet of plywood: 2 pieces 11 1/4"x46 1/2" long for the front and back; 1 piece 10 1/2"x46 1/2" long for the bottom; 1 piece 10"x46 1/2' long for the seat back and 1 piece 8 3/4"x40 1/2" long for the top.

We can get both sides out of the piece, 12x40 by laying it out as shown in the drawing: Cutting the Sides

Assemble the pieces, as shown on the drawing, with glue and nails. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth, especially if you will be staining the wood. Using the yellow wood glue for wood to be stained is better than the old white glue, since it washes off easily.

Start with the front and back sides fastened to the ends. Turn it over and fasten the bottom into position. Before installing the seat back, apply the tape around the edging to hide the end grain. Get some edge tape from your local hardware/building supply. It comes in various widths, lengths and colors of wood grain or melamine to match your selected plywood . It is pre-glued with a hot melt glue. Cut the tape to the desired lengths with a little overhang and apply it with heat from an iron. You'll get the hang of it with a little practice. Watch the glue squeeze out. Let it cool for a few seconds, then—with a sharp utility knife, keeping the blade flat against the face of the plywood—trim off the overhang of the tape at the ends and the sides. Go over the edge of the tape with about 120 grit sandpaper and you have a nice edge that makes the plywood look like solid wood.

Lay it on its back and fasten the seat back into position. Remember to glue and nail all joints.

Cut the 2 top side pieces: 2 7/8"x12 3/4" and fasten them into position, gluing and nailing them down into the front and back as well as through the ends. Now rip the top back piece 3 7/8" and insert it into place for a snug fit between the 2 top side pieces you just put in.

Cut the 1x2 pieces to length to make the arm rests. Notice the back of the rests go against the seat back at an angle and are trimmed, as shown in the diagram: Child's Bench Seat and Toy Box Plan. Cut this angle before cutting the rests to length. Have the arm rest overhang the front by about 3/4", as shown on the plans. Since the arm rests are solid lumber, you can round over all the edges, except the back, with a router or block plane. Fasten the arm rests into position.

Tip: When routering small pieces like this I prefer to hang the router under a table and move the piece against the router rather than the other way around. I have a table I made up behind my table saw for ripping full sheets of plywood and long pieces of lumber. I attach my router under this table. I removed the face plate and bolted it under the table. The table is its new face plate with the right size hole for the bits coming through. I use a 1x3 fence either clamped or screwed on. When not in use I remove the motor and bit leaving the surface clear. I suggest you rig up a system like this.

Now is the time to apply the tape needed to hide the end grain on the bench and the top or lid. Don't bother to tape the 3 7/8" top piece on which the top is hinged. The hinge will cover this edge, as well as, the back edge where the hinge goes on the top.

                      The top of the seat can be installed, now, with the piano hinge between the two surfaces, on the edge of both pieces. See drawing: Detail

                     Before finishing the bench seat and storage box, sand all the surfaces smooth. This is important with plywood and lumber both, to remove any mill glaze. Stain or apply a clear polyurethane finish and watch the kid's eyes light up as they realize the day has come to put their toys inside and actually sit on their own special seat.

Chapter 14.                   Projects for Kids (Part III)

Child's Picnic Table

List of Materials:

10 - 6' 2x4s #2 and better grade cedar, spruce or fir

16 - 1/4" x 3 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts

About 3/4 of a pound of 3" galvanized casing or finish nails

1 - liter or quart of stain or paint

Tools Needed:

Saw - power or hand

Square and straight edge

Hammer

Drill and 1/4" bit

Tape measure and pencil

Socket or adjustable wrench

Instructions:

Let's start off with laying out the frame of the child picnic table full size. Use a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood set up on saw horses. Measure up 19 1/2" from the bottom of the plywood in two spots about 3' apart and scribe a straight line across those marks. Make this line roughly in the center of the sheet. Find the center of this line and measure 12 3/8" out each way. Drop a perpendicular (90°) from this center to the bottom of the plywood. From this bottom center measure 17 5/8" out each way, along the bottom of the plywood. Cut a 2x4 about 26 3/4" long. Lay the top of this board on the top line on the plywood. Transfer the marks from the plywood to the face of the 2x4. Cut 4 pieces of 2x4 just under 24" long for the legs. Lay these legs on top of the table support piece and intersect the marks at the bottom of the plywood. Look at the end view drawing. Now mark the length and angles of the legs and the table support piece. When you cut each piece out, copy and cut duplicates for the other side. Of course, all four legs must be the same.

Tip: When cutting identical pieces of boards for opposite ends of a project, place the pattern on the piece to be copied good face against good face. This way both opposite ends will have the best side of the pieces facing out. With the wood we get nowadays, each piece seems to have a good side and a bad side.

Now cut a 2x4 45" long, cutting the ends back toward the center about 25°. This is your seat support piece. Now lay the legs down on the plywood with the table support on the top and the seat support up 11 1/2" from the bottom of the legs to the top of the support piece. Check out the drawings, make sure your legs are flush with the top edge of the table support piece and the ends of the table support are flush with the sides of the legs. The legs should be on the marks of the plywood. Nail these intersecting pieces together. Keep the nails staggered, leaving room to drill holes for the bolts.

Do the same thing for the other side.

Trim 11 of your 2x4's to 36" long or just under. TIP: If you go to a lumber yard or building supply, you can buy 'shorts' which are 6' long that are cheaper by the foot than a 12' 2x4.

Get a helper to hold one frame of the child's picnic table while you place a 2x4 top piece on the other and tack it in place. Consult the drawing again and notice that the top boards overhang the frame by 1 1/2" measured from the outside of the table support and the outside boards overhang the legs by about 3/8". Tack the remaining boards on leaving about an 1/8" between boards. Nail the heads home after you are happy with the spacing.

The two boards for the seat go on next as shown on the drawing. Notice the picnic table is not sturdy endways. Flip the table over carefully onto its top. Cut your 2x4's about 18" long at a 45° angle, as shown on the side view drawing. Nail these pieces to the edge of the underside of the center table top pieces and against the seat support pieces. Flip the table over again. Now it's stable. Don't forget to put the carriage bolts through the table top support and legs and the seat support and the legs. An added feature may be to use acorn nuts on the ends of the carriage bolts to avoid any scrapes on the child's legs.

Tip: Since bolts usually come in increments of 1/2", take a hacksaw and cut the bolt off to the required length for the acorn (cap) nut to fit. To do this easily to avoid messing up the threads, put a regular nut on first, then cut off the necessary thread, then remove the nut, cleaning up the threads as it comes off. Make sure there is a flat washer under the acorn nut.

Let the wood dry out sufficiently before you put on your finish of stain or paint.

Table Tennis Bat

What You’ll Need:

Table tennis bat rubbers

plywood (no more than 9mm)

Small planks for your handle

Paper

Pen

Jigsaw

Sanding/grinding wheel

Sandpaper

Varnish

Some sort of flexible glue (like silicone)

Wood glue (PVA)

Directions:

Trace the shape of your bat rubbers. You can freehand the handle, but I borrowed a friends bat and used it as a guide.

Trace your template onto your plywood.

Using your traced line and a jigsaw cut out the shape of your bat (sorry no picture) you can then neaten it up in a later step.

Sand your bat to remove burrs and splinters, first use a rough grain then move onto a finer one.

Get or cut yourself some small planks that will fit your handle, decide on the thickness yourself, but I found about 9mm was good.

Glue the handle parts onto your main body using wood glue (PVA) and clamps, leave it over-night to dry.

Using your sanding or grinding wheel (I was using a very hard wood and found a grinding wheel best) shape your handle until comfortable,keep checking how it feels in your hand while doing this.

I recommend varnishing your bat, whether you use matt or gloss it helps prolong its life, I personally prefer gloss for looks. Varnish the handle and the edges, don't bother doing the middle as this will be covered by the pads later.

Using your silicone or other flexible glue, stick the rubber pads (this is in place of sponge pads underneath) onto your base piece, leave to dry over-night.

                      If your base piece is still visible around the edges of the pads, use your sanding or grinding wheel to fix this.

                      You have now made your own Table Tennis bat, well done, buy yourself an ice-cream, now go and try it out!

Mason Bee House

What You’ll Need:

Block of untreated wood 6- to 8-inches long

drill with 5/16-inch drill bit

drill press

water-resistant paper (optional)

scrap wood for roof structure or a larger container to insert the bee house into

hardware cloth

staple gun

L brackets or pipe strap

Directions:

Using a drill press with a 5/16-inch drill bit, drill the initial holes up the length of your wood block, just as deep as it will go. This will get you started with the holes and make it easier to get uniform coverage and make it easier for you to use your cordless drill to finish off the job. If you don’t have a drill press, you can use a cordless drill to drill all the holes. The drill press just enables you to set up completely straight holes; with a cordless drill, you run the risk of going even slightly sideways and possibly drilling into another bee tunnel. If you don’t have a drill press, don’t sweat it and just keep your holes farther apart to avoid crossing them over by accident. Either way, put no more than 25 holes in any one house (to avoid confusing the bees), and stagger them around the block.

Using the cordless drill with 5/16-inch paddle bit, finish off holes so that they’re at least 6 inches deep—longer is OK. Use a piece of electrical tape on the drill bit to mark how deep you want to go into the block. If you happen to drill to the back, just be sure to add a back piece so the bees are protected. The male bee larvae are laid at the front, and the females are laid at the back. Drilling deep 

nesting tubes protects the larvae from birds and the elements, making it more likely that the boys make it out alive to mate with the girls in the spring.

After you’re done drilling, carefully bang out any leftover sawdust.

Using the paper tube instructions linked above, insert paper straws into your holes so that you can remove them thereby more easily sanitizing your bee house. If you chose to do this, plan to carefully remove your tubes in the fall, placing the enclosed larvae in a safe place, such as a lidded bucket with a single hole drilled into it. When they hatch, the bees will exit through the hole.

You can insert new straws into your mason bee house in late winter/early spring and begin the process over again with clean tubes. In humid areas, this may not be effective, as mold can develop on the tubes, requiring that you not reuse the house.

Paint or draw a design near the entrance of at least half of the holes to help the bees orient themselves. The less time mason bees spend trying to “remember where they parked,” the more time they can spend pollinating. Dr. Dogterom explains:

“Decorating the front of the nest makes it easier for bees to find their own nesting tunnel. A nest can be decorated with simple designs and or with one or two colors. Too few or too many markers at the nest will confuse the bees. Bees that are confused by the markers or lack of markers close to their nest can be observed flying in and out of several nesting tunnels or getting thrown out of neighbors’ nesting tunnels.”

Dr. Dogterom suggests using yellow, mauve, pink and blue colors but not to make them too fancy or complex. Simple letter shapes like X, V or O will do nicely.

                      Using a staple gun, fit your hardware cloth over the front of the mason bee house, slightly curved outward about 1 inch off the surface to prevent long-beaked birds from eating your precious mason bee larvae.

                      Hang the mason bee house on an obliging post or fence with an L bracket or pipe strap. We used a pipe strap to avoid puncturing the bee house further.

                     It’s important to keep your drilled-house clean. If you use the straws, follow the instructions in step 3. If you don’t, plan to put your whole mason bee house into a lidded bucket or box in the fall with a single hole drilled into it so the bees can escape when they’re hatched.

                     Dr. Dogterom suggests making sure that the box is painted dark, because the bees will be less likely to return to it if it’s not brightly lit. After the bees have hatched, which can sometimes take two years, you can just burn the wood. The biggest drawback to this design is that you really can’t clean them. However, the bees do seem to like them and use them well, and they make a wonderful family project. Watching the bees set up during the year and emerge in the spring is truly a joy.

Chapter 15.                   Projects for Kids (Part IV)

Hanging Lounge Chair

What You’ll Need:

Three 1.25″ Oak Dowels

Two 5/8″ Oak Dowels

About 20′ of 1/2″ Rope (Make sure weight limit is at least 300 lb.)

Canvas Drop Cloth

Sewing Machine

Drill

Tape Measurer

Scissors

Stain (Optional)

Steps

-Cut each of the 1.25″ dowels down to 30″ long. (If you want more of a contrast in color from the canvas, I would recommend staining all 5 dowels at this point.)
-On the two 1.25″ dowels for the seat part of the swing, measure 2″ and 3.5″ in from each end and make a mark at each spot. It is very important to keep your dowel still while measuring and make sure the marks are all level, if they aren’t, you won’t be able to slide the 5/8″ dowels through each of the dowels. If you have a dowel jig around, this will be much easier!

Drill 5/8″ holes through the 2″ marks on each of the dowels. Then drill 1/2″ holes through the 3.5″ marks.
-On the third 1.25″ dowel measure out and drill only the 3.5″ holes.
-Cut out a 48″ x 23″ piece of the drop cloth. (You might want to increase the 48″ side a bit if possible.)
-Along the long sides, fold in 1/2″ of fabric and iron in place. Then fold again and iron. Repeat for other side.
-Straight stitch twice along both of these folds.

Fold the top and bottom down 3 1/8″ and straight stitch across the bottom of the fold.
-Slide the 1.25″ dowels (with 4 holes) through each end of the canvas seat then put the 5/8″ dowels into the holes drilled for them.
-Once in place, drill a pilot hole where the dowels comes together and then screw them together. Make sure the screw isn’t too long that it comes through the other side.
-Tie a double knot in your rope leaving about 4′ on one side of the knot. Feed the other (long) side up through the other 1.25″ dowel. And then feed that rope down through the hole on the other end.
-Tie another knot under the dowel leaving enough extra rope on the top to make a loop. (You can adjust the length of the rope on top depending on the height from where you will be hanging it.)

Tie a loop into the rope. Measure to make sure it is directly above the center of the dowel.
-Feed both ends of the rope down through the top rung of the seat (measure to make sure they are the distance from the top dowel) and tie a knot below the dowel. Trim excess rope.
-Take the leftover rope and cut two equal pieces.
-Make a knot in one end of both ropes (leave 6-8″ hanging down) and feed up through the bottom rung of the seat.

You will bring these ropes up to the top dowel and tie them around the dowel just inside of the rope from the upper rung. I would recommend hanging the swing at the point so it’s easier to make sure it’s level when you’re tying them in place.
-Trim excess rope (You can leave a bit hanging down again if you want.)
-Use your hands to fray the ends.
-Hang on a hook that supports at least 300 lbs.

Child's Table and Chair

List of Materials

1 - 4x8x1/2" g1s plywood (G1S is good one side) for chair backs and seats, table top and skirts

3 pieces 2x4x8' long for chair and table legs

Box of 100 (need 80) 1 1/2"x#8 flathead wood screws

1 small bottle of carpenter's yellow glue

Here is a set of child table and chairs to fit the little people that they'll be able to call their own.

I've designed this set for the home handyman and his kids to build and assemble with little difficulty.

Instructions:

The Child Table

The table top, chair backs and seat and skirt are all made from a single sheet of 1/2" plywood . The legs are made from 2x2, 2x4 or 2x6 stock.

The skirt on the child table and chairs both are ripped to 2 1/2" and mitered on the ends.

The legs are tapered both ways on the inside from 1 1/2" under the skirt to 1" at the floor. I explain how to do this in the section "A Tapering Jig" . Only taper the legs below the skirt, so you can have a good fit on the inside corner of the skirt. Glue and screws are called for at the union of the legs and skirt.

Notice the dotted line on the drawing of the side of the child table. This represents a 2 1/2" piece nailed and glued between the skirt for extra support for the top. The top has its edges rounded over for a smooth finish. Overhang the top 3/4" over the skirt. An optional top can be a plastic laminate finish.

The Child Chairs

The backrest leg is cut from a solid piece of 2x4. Follow the detail as shown in the drawing of the child chair.

The leg portion is again tapered both ways (like the table), but the backrest portion of the leg is an even 1 1/2" x 1 1/2".

Round over the edges of the backrests and seats before assembly.

A Tapering Jig

A fence is used on a table saw to make cuts exactly parallel to an edge of the material being cut. When we want to make a cut that is not parallel with an edge, one way to do it is with a jig. We could make a simple jig with the exact angle we need for this project or make a little more complex one that can be adjusted for whatever angle you might need in the future as well. We'll call it a "tapering jig".

The tapering jig consists basically of two pieces of wood that can be adjusted to different angles. The jig is placed against the fence, the material to be tapered is placed against the jig and both the material and the jig are moved along the fence together giving a straight cut at an exact angle.

Let's start making this jig by ripping two pieces of 3/4" plywood 2 1/2" wide (about the same height as the fence) and cut to 30" long. Find a piece of piano hinge or butt hinge about 2" to 2 1/2" long and fasten this to the two pieces of plywood so when they are placed with their 2 1/2" faces together are even in length. After installing the hinge on one end, they will open up on the opposite end. Keep the hinge flush or below the top and bottom edges of the plywood pieces.

Now we must devise a way to keep the jig from opening too much or not enough and stop at the precise point we want. To do this we need a lock or stop of some kind. The easiest adjustable lock to make is one from 1/4" plywood .

Rip a piece of 1/4" plywood 1" wide by 6" long and round the ends nicely. At one end drill a 3/16" hole, centered on the piece and 3/8" from the rounded end. Measure 1" from this same end and drill a 5/16" hole. At the other end of this piece, come in 1/2" and drill another 5/16" hole.

Now connect the sides of these two 5/16" holes with a pencil line so that you have two parallel lines 5/16" apart and ending in a 5/16" hole at each end. Cut these two lines very carefully with a jig saw using a fine blade. Be careful not to push the blade too hard and break the plywood .

Cut from one hole to the other along the two pencil lines to form a slot. This slot should be able to have a 1/4" bolt slide along it without catching up anywhere.

Assemble the slotted lock onto the top edge of the jig. Screw the 3/16" hole end to the right hand piece so the rounded end is flush with the outside face of the jig and the screw is placed about 2" from the end opposite the hinge. Use a #8 x1 1/2" screw with a 3/16" flat washer over and under the slot.

Predrill the jig to accept the screw and tighten so it's just snug. The lock must be free to swivel on this screw. On the other side of the jig, about 2" from the end opposite the hinge, predrill a hole and install a 1/4" diameter leg screw. Assemble the slotted lock with a 1/4" washer above and below the slot onto this leg screw with a 1/4" wing nut. A leg screw is a fastener with wood screw threads on one end and machine threads on the other. It is used primarily in attaching bed or table legs to a metal plate fastened to the frame.

                     Next we need to install a stop for the material we are tapering so it can be moved with the jig as one unit. This is done by attaching a piece of 3/4" plywood with measurements of 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" onto the left hand side of the jig at the end. Predrill two holes for #8x1 1/2" screws and glue and screw the small piece on. Keep the top and bottom flush with the jig and overlap it by 3/4" on the outside, forming a stop for the material to rest against.

                      Okay, we've created a jig, but how do we use it? From the sketch you can see that our jig is on the table saw against the fence.

                     Place the jig on the table saw with the leg to be tapered. On the leg draw a line where the taper will be—1" at the bottom end and 1 1/2" at the top end. Remember to leave 2 1/2" at the top end without a taper so it can have a tight fit with the skirts of the table.

                     Orient the leg as in the sketch with the bottom of the leg against the end stop. Move the fence about a foot away from the blade and lock it in position. Now adjust the jig so when the leg is against the jig and the jig is against the fence the line on the leg is parallel to the saw blade. Slide the jig and leg back and forth along the fence to get these measurements. When sliding the jig, make sure the jig and leg move as one unit without any slipping between them.

                      Adjust the fence and jig towards the blade until the blade just starts to cut the line at the start of the taper near the top.

Assembly of the Child Table and Chairs

For the child table legs cut 4 pieces the same, but when assembling them twist the legs so the tapers are on the inside of the table. You want the legs to have the most spread on the floor to give stability to the table.

For each child chair make the two front legs the same. Turn to position them when assembling. Make the back legs (holding the back rest) each opposite to the other (a mirror image). Remember the table leg height is 19 1/2" long with the taper starting 2 1/2" from the top end and the front chair legs are 11 1/2" long with the taper starting 2 1/2" from the top end.

The chair's back leg (that holds the back rest) is a little more complicated. Layout the two back legs on a 2x4 and cut the pieces out with a circular saw and/or jig saw. Follow the instructions and drawings to assemble.

Painting

Finally, remove all rough edges, then sand and paint the project. Get the kids involved in assembling and painting.

From experience, my five year old grandson loves to paint. He'll slap it on thick, missing spots here and there, but he gets the paint on the piece.

Then I spread and smooth it out for him. Don't let them get too far ahead of you so the paint dries before you can spread it out. Use latex paint, which washes off. Kids love to help and will appreciate their new child furniture more by it.

Chapter 16.                   Projects for Outside (Part I)

Chair    

Tools And Materials:

Cedarwood

(12 inches) miter saw

Drill

Table saw

Clamps

Tape measure

Jigsaw

Keg jig

Orbital sander

Impact driver

Carpenters square

Pencil

Straight edge

Sandpaper

Directions:

Step1: First, make the legs. Make most cuts with a miter saw. 

Measure from the bottom of the wood and place a mark. Make another mark on a measurement of 5 1/2 inches. Measure another 1 1/2 inches to make the notch for the 2x6 board that connects the front legs. A 2x6 board is 5 1/2 inches wide and 1½ inches thick.

Step 2: Remove the notches with a jigsaw

Connect all the front legs to the 2x6 board. Use the carpenter's square to ensure the legs fit into the notch entirely—Predrill avoids splitting the wood. Apply wood glue on the joints and screw tight. 

Step 3: Fix the chair armrests support

Turn the chair upside down, then use wood glue and three screws to fix the armrest supports on the front legs.

Rear Legs

Cut the rear legs at an angle of 15 degrees. Clamp the legs tightly while you line them up. Measure 12 inches back from the interior of the front leg. Place the rear portion at the mark, line it up, so the angle matches the top of the armrest support while the leg rests smoothly on the ground.

Fix the rear legs. Take measurements of the table surface. Fix the support and attach it with glue and screws from the outside. The front of the back leg and the lower corner of the support board should be at par while the support board should lay straight at 90 degrees.

                      Seat Supports

                     Place three-seat supports on the two ends and the center. Cut the front of the board at 90 degrees and the rest at 15. With some screws, fix the legs to the two outer supports. Ensure the board is parallel to the ground and resting firmly on the rear support board.

                      Backrest Supports

                      Cut the backrest supports at 15-degree angles per end with an additional two 30-degree angles cut on the top to make it round. Put the backrest supports to complete the frame setup.

                      Step 4: Build Seat and Chair Back

                     The seat and chair back can be made from 1x4 boards, typically 3½ inches wide and ¾ inches thick. Space every board with an ¼ inch spacers. Make them fit; using a table saw reduces 1 or 2 boards' width if necessary but remember to predicate. Start from the front to the back of the seat and make a ¼ overlap on the front panel.

                      Shape and Attach Armrests

                      Use a paint can around the front of the armrests. Then using a miter saw, cut a 45-degree angle on the armrest's back. Use screws and wood glue to place the armrest on the top side.

                      Wood Putty

                      Add wood putty in the screw holes but ensure the screws are countersunk. When the putty is dry, remove it with the orbital sander. Remember not to put excess putty under the armrests. Finish your chair with any stain of your choice.

Bench

Tools And Materials:

1x3x6’ Board

2-inch Exterior Deck Screws

Exterior Wood Filler

Sandpaper

2x12x10’ Board

3-inch Exterior Deck Screws

Exterior Wood Stain

Exterior Wood Glue

Jigsaw

Drill  

Miter saw

Circular saw

Cut List

2x12 Seat – 1 @ 42 inches

2x12 Stringer – 1 @ 30 inches

2x12 Legs – 2 @ 16½ inches

1x3 Trim – 2 @ 42 inches

Directions:

Step 1: Cut the boards with the cut list

Cut the 2x12 board with a miter saw to make the seat, leg, and stringer pieces. Make the trim pieces with a 1x3 board.

Step 2: Mark the partitions on the legs

Measure the leg pieces and create a mark 4 inches from every side of the bottom edge. Add an extra 5½ inches from the bottom of each leg, centering them on the breadth of every board. Make lines between the marks to sketch the triangle cutouts.

Step 3: Mark details on the legs

Get a jigsaw and cut the outline from step 2. Use a circular saw to cut the lines and use the jigsaw to cut each notch's tip.

Step 4: Size the stringer

Remove 3¼ inches off the width of the stringer with the circular saw.

Step 5: Put the Stringer between the Legs

                     Put wood glue on the base of the 2x12 stringer. Place the board on the point between the legs with the trimmed edge on the same plane with each leg's upper edge. Drive two pilot holes from the legs to the stringer ends. Drill 3-inch wood screws into the pilot holes to reach the stringer.

                      Step 6: Join the seat to the Framework

                     Put wood glue to the leg and stringer tops. Place the seat board directly with its sides, on the base flush, and with an equal projection of 4½ inches on all ends. Make two pilot holes into the seat to reach every leg and three pilot holes in the stringer from the seat. Put 3-inch deck screws in the legs and stringer passing the seat.

                      Step 7: Make the seat trim

                      Mark the ends of the 1x3 trim pieces at about 1½ inches from the top edge. Let the marking guide you to pin the remainder of the bottom corner on the miter saw at 45 degrees’ angle.

                      Step 8: Join the Seat Trim

Place wood glue on the sides of the 2x12 seat. Place the trim edge with the uppermost edge of the seat, putting the clipped corners downward. Create three pilot holes on the trim pieces and using 2-inch screws, link the trim to the seat. Use exterior grade wood fillers to load the screw holes. Smoothen the assembly and apply wood stain. Use after it dries.

Flowerpot

Tools and materials :

Jigsaw

Block plane

Drill

Table saw

Cedarwood

Directions:

Step 1: Make the four panels

Dissect the panel pieces and reduce one edge of every corner piece. Use a jigsaw to cut the parts. Remember that one tapered piece on every panel is 11/16 inches slimmer than that of the opposite side. 

Put three panel pieces (two tapered and one straight) on a scrap of plywood, separating them with 1/8inch spacers. Add guide strips to hold the parts of the plywood in place. Cut every cleat to be shorter than the ideal length by a hair's breadth. Fix the cleat by ¾ inch.

Step 2: Assemble the box

Assemble the planter but first, slant the edge of the narrower tapered piece of every panel with a block plane, slightly below 90 degrees. Join the panels with thin wedges and a band clamp, then hit deck screws into the upper corners of the planter.

Then, bore a chain of 1/16-inch pilot holes through the planter's corners and put in a finish nail into the holes avoiding the adjacent panel.

Step 3: Create the cap

Cut the cap pieces and make pilot holes where the finish nails will keep them intact. Let the pilot holes be far from the position of the miter cuts. Nail and glue the pieces all together.

Cut the miters on all the L-shaped pieces, then use a band clamp to hold the cap in place as you make pilot holes for the nails. Unclamp it, put glue on the miters, reclaim and put together the cap assembly.

                     Slightly plane the cleat tops with a block plane to level it. Place the cap so it overhangs evenly, then bore pilot holes in them. Take off the cap, rub glue on the cleats and nail the lid back. Once the glue dries, set the nail heads and put wood filler. Use 120 and 220 grit aluminum oxide paper to sand the surfaces. Now you can use your flowerpot.  

Swing Bed

Tools And Materials:

Miter Saw

Jig Saw

2” Finish Nails

One ¼” Finish Nails

Wood Stain

Tape Measurer

Finish Mailer

4 Eye Screws

Wood Glue

Sand Paper

Wood Filler

11 pieces of 1” x 3” x 8’ clear pine

Three pieces of 1” x 8” x 8’ clear pine

Three pieces of 1” x 3” x 8’ knotty pine

Two pieces of 2” x 3” x 8’ framing lumber

One piece of 1” x 4” x 8’ clear pine

One piece of 2” x 4” x 8’ framing lumber

Directions:

Step 1: Make the frame

Build the main bed frame from the 1x8’s using the 2” finish nails on the joints. Add an inner frame to the makeup. Use 2x4’s to make it bulkier enough to accommodate the eye screws. Ensure the bottom of the 2x4’s is on the same level as the bottom of the frame. Use the 2” nails to nail and glue them to the edge. Use 2x3’s for the back and front and ensure its top is on the same level as the top of the 2x4’s.

Cut out 6 39” long pieces of the 1x3 knotty pine for the slats and arrange them evenly on the inside of the bed frame. It will carry the bed frame.

Step 2: Create the Posts

Make four posts with the 1x3 clear pine for every corner. Make the post from two pieces using glue on one edge.

Place the second piece on top of the glued edge to make an "L" shape and ensure the edges are lined up perfectly. Use 2” nails to join the two pieces together. Then use 1¼ nails and glue to attach the post to the corners.

Step 3: Fix the rails

Cut all the rails when you're done placing the four posts. They are the horizontal pieces that will join the posts. Attach the back rails, then the side rails.

The armrest pieces need extra cutting so from a piece of 1x3, cut the arm pieces to length. Use a jigsaw to make a notch that allows it to fit around the back post.

                      Step 4: Fill Holes and Stain

                      Step 5: Fix the Eye Screws

Trellis for your Vine Plants to Grow Up

It is an easy project to put together a nice A-frame to put inside your flower box by your patio that your lovely vine plants can grow up and look stunning to those admiring them from their patio seat on DIY patio furniture made from wood pallets. We will cover that later in the book. First, let us start with a relatively easy project in building an A-frame trellis. 

Materials You Will Need:

Scissors  

Wire ties, one bag

Garden Netting

Staple Gun

two stakes of 72-inch, 2×2 inch 

Mallet

Five wood pallets

Directions:

Select the plants you want to grow against your A-frame trellis. Perhaps you have some lovely vine plants such as clematis or even veggies such as squash or cucumber. Use two of the boards across the plot or top of the flower box, nailed standing up on end at either side of the flower box. 

Add a pallet on a 45-degree angle to make the A-frame trellis. Drive stakes into the bottom of the A-frame and secure in place. Roll the garden net over the A-frame than staple it on to the frame. Cut off any extra netting. The netting will add additional support and help your plants grow. 

Chapter 17.                   Projects for Outside (Part II)

Pet House

Materials:

One sheet 1/2-inch pallet wood, 8 feet x 4 feet

Circular saw and Hammer

Tape measure

Straight edge

2-inch galvanized nails

Pencil

Construction adhesive

Directions:

Cut the pieces of pallet wood boards for the following measurements:

21 x 34 inches for the bottom

27 x 39 inches for the top

23 x 24 inches for the back

23 x 24 inches for the front

24 x 34 inches for the side

24 x 34 inches for another side

You have to produce a door at the bottom edge of the forward-facing piece, but spot it with a pencil. You can amend out the rectangle or round door. 

Line up the back panel and the panels on both sides and fix them with nail and hammer along the panels' length. Now secure the front panel with hammering electrified nails.

                     It is time to set the wooden frame on the top of the bottom piece and repair it with two to three nails on each corner. Preserve a flat panel in its position with hammer and nails and keep it locked. Enhance adhesive constructions and let the pet house dry.

Wooden Pallet Garden Box

You can make yourself an excellent wood pallet garden box to grow your favorite plants in. The pallet boards will work as markers for all of your different plants. All you need to do is put in your soil and use each slate row as another plant.  

Materials:

one/two wooden pallets 

soil to fill the pallet

seeds/seedlings

netting

stapler

wood paint/paintbrush  

make sure it is outdoor 

waterproof paint

3 ½ inch screws

screw gun or screwdriver

Directions:

If you are doing a wood pallet garden box with a trellis on back, then take your second wood pallet, put your first wood pallet on its side, attach the second wood pallet to it, make sure they are level and flush at the bottom that will be sitting on the ground. 

Screw-in place attaches the first and second pallets and staples the netting to the second pallet's side facing the plants. Paint the wood pallet garden box how you would like, perhaps paint cute labels on it for each row of plant specifying the plant in each row. 

Flatten the ground area where you want to set up your wood pallet garden box, then put the wood pallet(s) in place. Make sure it is a heat-treated or kiln treated wood pallet, especially when using it to grow plants. Fill up with a mixture of soil and compost. Then plant your seeds and seedlings, make sure to put your climbing plants in the back row to climb up the trellis for support. As they grow, use ties to tie them to the trellis and netting to add additional support.   

Porch Swing

Making a porch swing is a great addition to add to your back patio or front porch. You can make a lovely swing out of wood pallets that is easy to put together. You may think this is a challenging project to do, but you will be pleasantly surprised to find out just how easy it is to make your wooden pallet swing.  

Materials:

one pallet, cut in half lengthwise

six-strong heavy-duty steel hooks

strong nylon rope

drill

Four screws and bolts 

outdoor wood paint or stain

paintbrush

cushions (optional)

Directions:

Once you have cut your pallet in half, take two pieces and line them up like a couch. Screw the two sides of the pieces together and bolt the four screws securely together. Paint your wooden pallet swing seat, allow one side to dry, then turn over and paint the other side and allow to dry before continuing forward with the project ultimately. Once the bench is completely dried. Add four hooks to wood pallets, two at each end of the seat. Add two more large hooks above where you are going to hang the swing seat. Have four pieces of strong thick nylon rope, two long pieces, and two short pieces. Hook the short pieces through hooks at either end of swing seat hooks. In the center of the small ropes, tie a long rope and attached the other end to the hooks hanging above. To add a more decorative touch to your swing seat, you could add outdoor cushions.   

DIY Garden Bed

Materials:

Packing Pallets

Fertilizer

Garden Loam

Organic Compost

Directions:

Set pallets on the smooth ground, but the location should have plenty of sunlight for 6 to 8 hours and air movement. A soft and level surface will keep the pallets secure, and you can raise gardens to quickly use moisture and retain moisture and nutrients of the soil.

Now fill the pallets with soil and pack the soil between slates and on the top. You should have 2 to 3 inches of soil mix over the top of pallets. The soil will be layered in all pallets. Then the fertilizer can be slowly released into the soil and in the rows between the boards. These will be planting rows 4 inches of ground on the top.  

It will be useful to raise small plants in this garden to avoid overcrowding of roots. These are good for broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, collards, and lettuce.

Wooden Bench

Purchase all the required material in advance to prevent any difficulty or inconvenience.

Supplies/Materials:

Counter-sink drill set

Circular saw

Speed square

Driver/Drill - cordless

Construction adhesive

2x8s

2 of 1/2-inches deck screws

Instructions:

Exterior finish

Assemble two 10-ft 2x8s, glue & a bunch of screws for this durable bench. A novice can finish it in a couple of hours.

Cut corners

It was beginning on one side of the 10-ft. The panel, cut five times identical 22-1/2 degree to build the four legs.

Chop the legs out of a diameter of 2 x 10-ft—rot-resistant timber piece. Split the platform with an 8-ft backrest. 2x8.

Spread out the sides and mount them as mirror copies, use the orientation of the bench and back parts. Join three legs, 2-1/2-inches deck hooks, and glue welding. To stop breaking the wood, pre-drill all the holes at the screw using a countersink piece. Finally, place the sides adjacent to one another, stick, and turn the seat back and forth. Complete the platform with oil or paint the outer coat.

A Portable Shop Table

Tools Required:

Power Drill

Circular Saw

Layout Square

Materials Needed:

Ten (10) 2x4 8 feet long

Four (4) 1x6 8-feet long

Four (4) 3-inch Spring Door Hinges

Four (4) 3-inch Door Hinges

Four (4) 3-inch Casters

Four (4) 1-inch closed Eye Hooks (screw-type)

Two (2) 6-foot lengths of small nylon rope

2-1/2 inch and 1-1/2-inch Deck Screws

Glue

Method:

The base of the table:

Simple butt-joint construction. It should be 96 x 44 inches in size

Cut the two long sides of the base-2x4's to 89-inches in length

Cut one 2x4 into two (2) 44-inch pieces for the two ends of the table base.

Cut three (3) 41-inch pieces out of two more 2x4's. These will be the three stringers that will be giving strength to the table.

Assemble the tabletop and ensure that you use at least 2-1/2-inch screws at every joint to keep it healthy. Ensure that the tabletop is square.

Adding legs to the base

Cut the four 1x6's into eight pieces. Each of them should measure 35-1/4 inches in length.

With the base lying flat on the ground, fix two of the 1x6 pieces in each corner. Use a square to ensure that they are set at 90 degrees. One leg should be placed flush with the corner, while the other should be overlapping the first one.

Attaching stringers

Stringers on the legs of the table will provide strength and stability.

Cut two 2x4's to 92 inches in length

Cut one 2x4 into two pieces, every 44 inches in length

Mark where the stringers will be placed on the table legs with your pencil

Attach them using 1-1/2 screws through the leg into the stringer.

Turn the table to feel its strength.

Attaching caster board to the table

It is done with the table on its legs

Prepare the stocks that will hold the casters. Cut a 2x4 into two lengths of 43-1/2 inches

                      Attach two hinges at the ends of the caster boards. Once they are done, the caster board should now freely move in a 90-degree arc and stay flat when the table is placed down.

Attaching caster base braces to the stringers

The braces will lock the base of the caster in the down position. They should be fixed using spring hinges. You can use cut-offs from cutting the stringers, or you can cut a new 2x4 for this.

Attach the casters to the table, with the table upside down.

Attach a caster to each end of the caster board using 1-1/2-inch screws. Once you are done, test to see that the table rolls down smoothly when its right position.

Connect a rope pull to the caster braces. It will raise the caster braces to allow the table to rest on its leg when working on it.

Attach the tabletop

Place the 1/2-inch plywood onto the table base with the table in its right position. Ensure that it is in position.

Attach the top to the base using 1-1/2-inch screws. Do not use glue at this point.

Place the Masonite top onto the plywood. It is a replaceable piece once it gets worn out. The Masonite should be flush with the plywood on the four sides.

Attach using 1-1/2-inch screws to the plywood base, and maybe to the table base so you will not have any ganging screws on the bottom of the table.

The table is now ready, and you can paint or stain it, except the Masonite, to give it a better look and protect it from dirt, grime, and moisture.

Through going over every possible step in the process, it becomes easy to check on progress and ensure that all the materials you need to get started are readily available.

Chapter 18.                   Projects for Outside (Part III)

Picnic Table

Purchase all the required material in advance to prevent any difficulty or inconvenience.

Supplies/Materials:

4 of 8’ elongated 2×4 sheets

2 of 8’ elongated 2×6 sheets

2 of 8’ elongated 2×2 sheets

6 of 8’ extended 1×4 sheets

40 of the 2 ½” jig screws (Kreg)

2” surface nails

One ¼” surface nails

Sandpaper

1” timber screws

2” timber screws

Wood glue

Measuring tape

Outdoor sealer and Stain

Nail gun

Miter saw

Jig Saw

Kreg jig

Sander

Drill

Instructions:

And to start with, I brought together a strategy that merged the Pirates picnic table and the Bigger Kids picnic table. I changed the edges slightly to avoid having more timber for the internal supports, then built the top & bottom out of 2x4s & 2x6s such as the older children's table. And I love the way things turned out.

I began by constructing both sides, and use a jigsaw to slice that porthole & the bottom nozzle, then adding all sides together & finishing with the seat on the roof. It went together by myself in around 5 hours of construction time. I was using the nail device to keep stuff together as I fixed them, and I might be able to do and without the second-hand set. The only position I wanted the 2nd individual was where I put the two sides and the support underneath the seats together.

I needed to be mindful of whether to carve my panels to be sure I had all the pieces with as little wood as possible.

You'll start by using the jig & putting holes throughout the 20” & 10 ½” 2x2 panels. Those will be tabletop & seat supports. Place jig openings at 19 ½”, 14 ½”, 11”, 9”, 5 ½”, 3 ½”, ½” now for 20” lengthy boards. As for 10 ½” panel nine ¾,” 8”, 5 7/8”, 4 ½”, two ¾” & ¾” beginning at the board's flat end.

The tabletop support should then be fixed to the top of the table slat (a 20” 144). Add adhesive to the 2x2 to the highest point of the edge slat. And that's where I utilized 2” nails to grasp it, and afterward one ¼” from front wooden screws to protect it. I wasn't concerned with the front-showing screws as they're covered under the tabletop surface overhang. Only ensure you don't insert screws or nails into one of the gaps in the jig.

First, you'll install the 24” 1x4s adjacent to the pillar, 1 1/2” outward. I fastened it to 1 1/4” of nails & glue to the first surface. Then I created a pair of 1/4” surfaces with 1/4” thick wood scrap to assist with my placement and utilized them to attach the remainder of the frames.

Until you add the base plate, you'll have to press it down, so it doesn't fall on rough floors. I used my saw jig to do so. Carve out 1/2” tall, then leave on either end only 5 inches.

And all the slats at your side are fixed. I have wanted to mount the 24” 1/4” wooden screws using 1 1/4” from the rear so that they wouldn't turn up over the front.

Next, you attach the supports to your chair. Stack 10 1/2” boards over the bent edge with jig spaces and lock with the adhesive and 2” screws. So, you're going to set out a 13 5/8 through the sheet. That is bent at both ends, and 2 1/4” apart from the outside bottom. Safe with adhesive & 2” nails. And turn it over with 1 1/4” wood screws to hold.

                     After I finished both sides, this was appropriate to install the holes in the tube. I attached a strip of cord to a thumbnail tack to create a 7-inch ring and then connected this to a compass 3 1/2” apart. I placed the thumbnail tack in the port slot middle and then traced my ring. Then take a saw and carve it off.

                      Then it was the aspect where I wanted the 2nd pair of hands—using the 2” wooden screws to attach 2x4 to the 2x2 support the 40 1/2”. I held it 3/4” under the seat backing.

                      Connect the base then to the other side.

                      Now it's the moment to incorporate the tabletop and the chairs. I utilized my 1/4 "spacers & protected 2” nails on the boards. Then crawl underneath the table with 2 1/2” jig screws and then use the jig gaps you dug to mount the rim.

Pallet Bench and Gabion Table

Use 15: Rack to Keep Your Tools

Materials:

One pallet

Staples

4’ x 4’ chicken wire

Six wire coat hangers

Durable chain

2 1/4 x 4” clasp hook bolts and nuts

Four washers with bolts

S-shaped hooks

Circular Saw and Hammer

Nail Puller and Nails

Drill and head screwdriver

Staple gun and wire cutters

Tape to Measure

Directions:

Cut the pallets and remove the middle bar of the pallet. Carefully divided the wood and measure the split pieces.

Cut the additional wire using a wire cutter and bend the remaining wire to smooth the sharp corners. Take the wooden bars and fix the chicken wire with the help of screws and use a nail gun to improve the wood pallets.

Fix the chain along the length, then hang the rack at around a 45-degree angle with hook bolts on the wall. Your pot rack is prepared, and now you can use bolts to fix the frame at a point where you can access it and create additional support.

You can place S-hooks on the hanger wire so that you can hang pots and pans on the hooks. Keep it in mind that these hooks can carry a lightweight item, but you can benefit from additional storage. 

Pallet Bin for Compost and Plants

Materials:

8-foot pieces of 1 x 4 pine, two boards

10-foot pieces of 1 x 2 pine, two boards

A 10-foot piece of 2 x 2 pine, one board

Measuring tape and Clamp

Safety goggles

Circular saw

One box of about one 1/4-inch screw

Drill and 7/16 drill bit

Directions:

You want to do four walls. Two walls will be constructed by a 22-inch piece of 1 x 4, and two walls can be designed with 24-inch one x four pieces. You will make square walls build the corners. Fasten them together and assemble the top and bottom areas. 

Cut the sections for the inner rack and drill a screw in each frame to fix it. Finish off the bottom part and prepare the top position in the same way. You can add sealant or paint to protect the rack.  

L shaped outdoor sitting plan:

It is an excellent outdoor L-shaped sitting plan for your patio. Like other projects, get some pallets and secure them in a way that they get L shape. Then paint the sofa and use mattresses and cushions to make it cozy and comfortable. You can see the table is also made with the same wood. 

These outdoor woodworking campaigns will beautify your outdoor space with less effort and money. So, learn to do such projects to decorate your patio or garden area.   

Pallet Pathway

Materials:

Measuring tape

Screwdriver

Pencil

Wood screws

Saber saw

Directions:

In the first step, you will measure your path's width to count the number of pallets required to design it. These are available in different sizes, so you should consider your bed's size, and you will need more than one pallet. 

You should gauge the width of pallets and keep one pallet flat (upside-down) on the floor. You can make a pencil mark on the place where you want to cut it short. 

Cut the pallet wood with the help of a saber saw and remove excessive sections of the pallet.

Now, turn full and cut pallets (upside-down) and line them with each other to make a full-width headboard. Remove the excessive board and use it to extend the junction point of two pallets. It is time to drive wood screws into the board to attach all sections.

You can keep this pallet way on the path.

Pallet Playhouse

Materials:

One sheet 1/2-inch pallet wood, 8 feet x 4 feet

Circular saw and Hammer

Tape measure

Straight edge

2-inch galvanized nails

Pencil

Construction adhesive

Directions:

Saw the pieces of pallet wood boards for the subsequent measurements:

21 x 34 inches for the bottom

27 x 39 inches for the top

23 x 24 inches for the back

23 x 24 inches for the front

24 x 34 inches for the side

24 x 34 inches for another side

You have to form a door at the bottom edge of the front piece, but mark it with a pencil. You can cut out the rectangle or round door. 

Line up the back panel and the panels on both sides and fix through nail and hammer along the panels' length. They have now sheltered the front panel with hammering electrified nails.

                     It is time to set the wooden frame on the top of the bottommost piece and fix it by two to three nails on each turn. Retain a flat panel in its place by hammer and nails and keep it secure. Add adhesive constructions and let the pet house dry.

Storage Shed for Garden

Materials:

Tape Measure  

One board of 24 feet, 2 x 4 inch

Flour

Jigsaw

Rubber mallet

6 Reber of 4 foot

Hammer

Three lengths of 14 PVC pipe, ¾ inch and 12 feet long

Polyethylene 12 x 2 feet plastic 

Nails

Fencing staples

Wire

Directions:

Conclusion

You should become a better woodworker by building your knowledge of wood, tools, and body. But by using this awareness as a base, you can increase your ability to improve even more. Your further growth will determine what you build on above this foundation.

Mastering the fundamental knowledge should make the wealth of information available elsewhere much easier to understand and to assimilate.

This knowledge should help you learn from what you do. Combined with a clear idea of your results, training yourself is just a part of learning as someone teaches you. Once you understand fundamental principles and body mechanics behind the use of devices, the universal character of such principles means that new methods and techniques are assimilated. Only your instruments will illustrate what is required.

Why should it be easier to learn now from another person? Learning from others There are several explanations—several reasons. Working with a good teacher is the best and easiest way to get guidance if you have problems with some of the fundamental elements. He or she can recognize issues and make potential corrections. Your greater awareness about the significance and usefulness of this knowledge will promote the application of what you have learned.

Another way to learn new techniques is to follow a class. Your understanding of the importance of fundamental issues will tell you how and why your teacher does something and not only what they do. See the teacher see how the process is based on the fundamental principles. There are all sorts of reasons why you cannot follow this precise path, but you want to understand their overall structure.

Stay open to everybody and everything. Be curious about the things that you think are wrong.

If someone can use a technique successfully, it's not wrong. It doesn't mean it is wrong just because something seems wrong (in a systematic way, mainly) in comparison to what you observed or heard. There can also be something you can use "wrongly." But first of all, both how it works and why it works. What are the reasons for the method or technique? Is it taking all the fundamental principles into account? And how can it help you?

Often you encounter strategies that don't stick to the fundamentals. You cannot avoid avoiding wood behavior, but you can potentially escape from poor body mechanics. The human body is almost endlessly adaptable, and even a "false way" could work with the dogged pursuit of a target. It also can lead to carpal tunnel syndrome, back pain, or worse.

Learning or training on your own is an important step forward. It's still your responsibility to assimilate what is offered even when you work with a complete instructor. In the end, you need to discover how best you can do a specific task. It will significantly help people to know how others achieve it. But this doesn't tell you what it feels like or how to concentrate on the right things. You need the courage to experiment, strength to practice, and commitment to adhere to it.

You must not be too comfortable, too. Be eager for each project to challenge you a little more. But don't just look for more complicated tasks. Seek stuff that will excite you on your job as well.

You will need to be good at solving problems as you study on your own. Woodwork is a mechanism to respond to all kinds of dynamic changes on the fly. Every board is challenged and must be adapted to changes in the direction of the grain, dimensional movements, and even variable moisture levels. Your instruments are continually changing. As soon as you start to use them all, a perfectly sharp edge begins to break down; you have to be mindful of that and change it if necessary (and decide when you should sharpen again). For different reasons, devices are also modified. You may slip on an airplane, or do not tighten up a screw tight enough to adjust something. There could be a dull blade in the wood. The machines suffer from wear, tear, and alignment on rollers, brushes, and belts. You must rely on feedback to tell you when things change and how fast you can react, but you must still figure out exactly what is wrong.

Only because you are paying attention does not mean that when something changes or starts to go wrong, it will be easy to figure out precisely what happens. For the beginner, who continually faces uncertainty, this issue is particularly acute. Is that me? Is it me? Is it the instrument? Or the wood? These are everybody's right questions if things go wrong. Sometimes you have only to make enough errors to say. However, you have to figure out things to continue, regardless of your experience. And only if things go wrong next time will the experience be valuable.