Woodworking

Beginners Guide

Volume

1

J. J. Sandor

Copyright

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic, print or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Copyright © 2017 J. J. Sandor

Disclaimer

This Book is produced with the goal of providing information that is as accurate and reliable as possible. Regardless, purchasing this Book can be seen as consent to the fact that both the publisher and the author of this book are in no way experts on the topics discussed within and that any recommendations or suggestions that are made herein are for entertainment purposes only.

Professionals should be consulted as needed before undertaking any of the action endorsed herein.

Under no circumstances will any legal responsibility or blame be held against the publisher for any reparation, damages, or monetary loss due to the information herein, either directly or indirectly.

This declaration is deemed fair and valid by both the American Bar Association and the Committee of Publishers Association and is legally binding throughout the United States.

The information in the following pages is broadly considered to be a truthful and accurate account of facts and as such any inattention, use or misuse of the information in question by the reader will render any resulting actions solely under their purview. There are no scenarios in which the publisher or the original author of this work can be in any fashion deemed liable for any hardship or damages that may befall the reader or anyone else after undertaking information described herein.

Additionally, the information in the following pages is intended only for informational purposes and should thus be thought of as universal. As befitting its nature, it is presented without assurance regarding its prolonged validity or interim quality. Trademarks that are mentioned are done without written consent and can in no way be considered an endorsement from the trademark holder.

Dedication Page

This book is for you, Dad.

Thank you for helping me out at the early age to begin exploring the world!

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 - Where to begin

Chapter 2 - Essentials for Woodworking

Chapter 3 - Starter toolkit

Chapter 4 - Basic woodworking techniques

Chapter 5 - Woodworking strategies

Chapter 6 - Tips and Tricks for Woodworking

Chapter 7 - How to Store Your Tools

Chapter 8 - Safety While Woodworking

Conclusion

Introduction

Congratulations on downloading this book and thank you for doing so. The following chapters will discuss everything you need to know to get started with woodworking! There are plenty of books on this subject on the market, thanks again for choosing this one! Every effort was made to ensure it is full of as much useful information as possible, please enjoy!

A Brief History

Woodworking has been around since the dawn of time, in one form or another. There is evidence from ancient Rome, Egypt, China, and Japan. In fact, many of the hand tools they used since 3,000 B.C. have changed very little. Axes and handsaws were some of the first tools created and used. The Egyptians gave us the 'try' square or carpenter's square, the plumb line, and the chalk line. Although the Romans improved the handsaw since, the first hand saw was actually made from copper. It was a soft metal and therefore cutting lumber involved a slow, tedious process of pulling the saw, instead of pushing-pulling, until the desired cut was finished. The Romans also invented nails (which replaced the Egyptian's wooden pegs), the rule, the smoothing plane, the frame saw, and the claw hammer.

Chapter 1 - Where to begin

Where to Begin Woodworking

Modern woodworking has several different fields to specialize in and most of them require a different shop set up and necessary tools. Let's explore some of the common fields.

Dimensional Furniture Woodworking

Dimension furniture woodworking is the art of taking a tree, milling it into dimensional pieces such as 1x6's 2x8's, 4x4's, and so on. From there, the artist creates tables, chairs, beds, and many more pieces.

Log Furniture Woodworking

Log furniture woodworking is a lot like dimensional furniture woodworking in that the end product is an item that is functional for every day, life like a bed or chair. The difference is that the lumber isn't cut into dimensional boards first. Instead the artist takes a tree, dries and peels it, and then creates the object using round logs.

Repair and Restoration Woodworking

An artist specializing in this field will have extensive knowledge about how people used to build or make wooden items.  They use this knowledge as well as their salvage skills to restore wooden objects worth preserving.

Cabinetry

Cabinetry Woodworkers make cabinets, boxes, and chests with sheets of wood. They can be either ornate and decorative or plain and functional.

Construction

General construction woodworking involves taking dimensional lumber and building a dwelling, shelter, or structure. Typically, this worker isn't as concerned with details as they are stability and functionality. Detail work is left to the Finish Carpenter.

Finish Carpentry

Finish carpentry is the art or 'finishing' off a dwelling, structure, or shelter. The concern themselves with the details that turn an average looking space, into a completed area. They often do flooring, molding, doors, windows, and installing cabinets. 

Woodturning

Woodturning creates various round objects on a lathe. The block or composite of wood spins, while the artist uses a stationary tool to sculpt out an object. Wooden bowls, vases, legs, and cups are just some of the possibilities in this sector of woodworking.

Woodcarving

Woodcarving uses cutting tools to sculpt out images and shapes in pieces of wood. An entire block of wood may be turned into a 3-dimensional object or flat pieces of wood may be carved into creating an ornamental part to a bigger object.

Pyrography

Also known as wood burning, pyrography involves a tool that heats up and is then used to create images and words on slabs of wood. The tool burns the wood enough to leave a mark, but not ignite the wood.

Scroll Saw Woodworking

Mainly with thin pieces of wood, the artist cuts out images with a scroll saw by hand. These images and pieces can then be used to make plaques, flat images, or even build 3-dimensional objects such as boxes and cabinets.

Wood Mosaics

There are two forms of wood mosaics; marquetry and intarsia. Marquetry involves thin pieces of wood cut into shapes and then inlayed into another thin piece of wood. It is then laminated onto another surface, like a headboard or box. Intarsia uses different shapes, types, and sizes of wood fitted together. The end result is an image that produces an illusion of depth.

Other

Other types of woodworking include basket weaving, clock making, toy making, creating intricate cutting boards, and making unique wooden instruments. Of course, like any art form, woodworking utilizes a medium that has few boundaries. Especially with today's technology, woodworking is taken to new levels and new techniques are being developed all the time.

The best way to discover which type of woodworking is for you is to buy, borrow, or rent the main tools needed to make an item in that field and go from there. If you try wood burning and lack the drawing skills needed, try a different form such as furniture making or wood turning. When you find your niche, then you can invest in the right tools, the perfect work environment, and develop your skills!

Chapter 2 – Essentials for Woodworking

Having the right tools for the job can make the difference between having a fun and easy time creating and ruining your project, or having to take the round-about way to the desired effect. Of course, there is a modern way to do things and a traditional or historical way to do them. If you are the type of person that revels in the small human touches and errors that make a piece unique, then you may find hand tools and traditional methods more your style. If you are the type of person that likes consistency and the ability to recreate an item multiple times, then the modern tools and methods are the path for you.

Below are lists of the tools that are necessary and helpful to the common fields of woodworking. Some of these tools can be expensive and, unless you have a large sum of money allotted to spend on tools, are usually acquired over a period of time.

Dimensional Furniture Woodworking, Repair and Restoration Woodworking, Cabinetry, Construction, and Finish Carpentry

These fields can have the most or wide variety of tools needed and preferred. Since furniture, cabinets, and structures come in many forms and employ many different techniques, it really depends of the artist and the method. Construction and Carpentry fields benefit the most from mobile or battery powered tools and may not need everything listed below, although at some point you may find one job that requires the tool. Repair and Restoration fields may require more specialty tools than the ones listed below, but as mentioned above you will cross that bridge when you get there. Here is a general list of tools you might need or want.

•               Miter Saw: ideally one that can cut up to a 2x10 as well as up to a 4x6 board. You also want one that can miter up to at least 45 degrees both ways.

•               Table Saw: this is where you can square up rough cut lumber, rip boards, and rip and crosscut plywood. If you plan on doing this seriously, a table saw with a saw stopping safety is advised. These types of saws will have a small electrical current running through the blade. When human skin, or anything that is conductive, touches the blade it will enact the safety feature, stopping the blade and turning a potential life or limb threatening situation into a small cut. This tool will save your life, limbs and wallet!

•               Circular Saw and Jig Saw: if you can't afford a good table saw yet, you can get away with a circular saw and a straight edge. Either way though, a circular saw is a good asset to any shop just for its mobile capabilities. Jig saws will allow you to cut out curved lines and inner holes.

•               Drills and Drivers: battery operated drills seem to be the best since you will be using this tool the most and taking it all around the shop. The constant use and cords don't work well together. That being said, corded drills are sometimes nice for denser woods. A drill press is great for prepping boards for assembly, but only at that stage. Sometimes, tight spots will require the use of hand screwdrivers, so it's a good idea to have them on hand with both modern and tradition methods. Don't forget an assortment of bits as well!

•               Measuring tools: tape measures are a given, but a Speed Square is the go-to for quick straight lines up to 6 inches and easily measuring out angles. A combination square can be nice if you have to measure out a consistent depth for drawers. Also, depending on if your work involves plywood or not, a long Drywall T-Square can come in handy, otherwise you can mark out multiples of the measurement and align them with a straight edge. Get a pack of good pencils as well. You don't want to use pen or marker as your marking utensil because the ink will soak down into the wood. This will cause you to sand more, work harder, and possibly permanently mark your project.

•               Sander and Dust Collection System: whether it's an electric hand sander and an attachable vacuum or a drum sander and a dust collector, making furniture requires sanding. You will find having a sanding block with sheets of sand paper, an electric orbital sander and a vacuum that can hook up to it, and a large-scale drum sander are all beneficial to making fine furniture. The drum sander can do the flat pieces like hardwood boards, table tops, and panels, while the orbital sander will do all other pieces, and hand sanding will give that luster finish before the last coat of polyurethane or shellac goes on. Regardless of what you can afford or what you want to have, you will need different grits of sand paper and a face mask. Inhaling saw dust and stain/finish fumes can be harmful to your lungs, so don't skimp on a good mask. The three main types of sand paper grit you will need are 80 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit, and 400 grit. The bigger the number, the smaller the grit and the finer the polish. Start with the smaller grit and work your way up to the bigger grit.

•               Air Compressor and Air Tools: such as finish nailers, staplers, brad nailers, and framing nailers. Having an attachment that can blow saw dust off products can be beneficial as well.

•               Planers and Joiners: whether you are using rough cut lumber or not, a planers and joiners are needed to get the desired thickness of boards and to join them properly to make the best product. You can get machines that will consistently do this for modern methods, but there are times when a good hand plane will come in handy. Sometimes its quicker to smooth out an area with a hand planer than break out the machine, set up the right depth, and run it through a few times. 

•               Clamps and work bench tools: clamps are always necessary. Even if you have plenty of hands to help hold things, clamps will keep the wood pieces tightly together while you join them. Also, a wide variety of clamps are needed. C clamps are good for small boards and locking a straight edge down on the bench and bar clamps are great for virtually everything including tabletops, frames, and glue-ups. If you plan on using pocket holes, they make clamps for that too. Work bench tools will make the job easier as well. Things like bench cookies for staining, sanding, finishing, and raising plywood up off the bench for cutting, bench clamps can hold plywood while you edge band it, and many more options.

•               Hand Tools: you will always need these, no matter what you do woodworking, hand tools are a necessity. Find a few different types of hammers like a rubber mallet, wooden mallet, and a claw hammer. You will want a variety of pliers, screwdrivers, chisels, scissors, nail punches, a couple different hand saws, glue brushes, and so on.

•               Joinery Tools: a good woodworker will learn and utilize different ways to join boards. Therefore, you may end up having several different types of joinery machines. Pocket Hole machines are great for simple or small frames, Biscuit Joiners can be used for joining thin boards, and Domino Machines are great for heavy duty joining like table tops and chairs.

•               Edge Banding Equipment: if you are going to work with veneered plywood, you will need to apply a veneered edge to finish off each piece. You can do this with a simple iron, edge banding cutter, scissors, a smooth block, and a sanding block or they make a machine that does it all at once.

•               Detail Tools: parts like crown molding, drawer slides, and drawer knobs and pulls benefit from having smaller specific tools to help you apply them the most accurately. Find a crown molding jig, drawer slide installation kits, and drawer pull jigs.

Chapter 3 – Starter toolkit

The traditional methods for furniture would require different tools. You may find, as your skills increase, you will find specialty tools handy, however learning how to use these tools first will give you a good foundation skill set to grow upon. Here is a good starter list:

•               Scrub/Jack/English Fore Plane: used to get the right thickness of board.

•               Jointer Plane: used to flatten boards.

•               Smoothing Plane: used to smooth out the boards.

•               Router Plane: this is the joinery plane and you could just use a chisel or saw but this will make the rabbets, tenons, dados, and half laps more accurate and consistent.

•               Rip Hand Saw: a 26" 5 ppi hand saw will help you out immensely and make the ripping jobs get done much faster.

•               Crosscut Hand Saw: a 26" 8 ppi saw will do to cut your stock down to rough sizes that you can sort through later.

•               Tenon Saw: an 18" saw with 10 ppi and a 3.5" depth cut or more will give you a balanced cut.

•               Carcass Saw: a 12-14" saw with 12 ppi crosscut filed teeth will be the saw you use for all your final dimensioning and some joinery.

•               Dovetail Saw: a 14-18 ppi will work for the finer cuts, dovetails, and any smaller notches you need.

•               Bench Chisels: 1/2, 3/8, 1/4, and 1/8 chisels are the most needed and they should be kept sharpened at a 30-degree bevel.

•               Paring Chisel: a 1.5-2" chisel is great for defining edges of joints, general chamfering edges, and paring any waste from the saw. You will find this chisel is constantly by your side.

•               Mallet: a square or round mallet will do.

•               10" Swing Brace: this tool will do all the drilling from 1/4" to over 2" wide bits.

•               Jennings Pattern Bits: 1/4" and 3/8" will do most of the mortise work you need and pegs or drawbore holes.

•               Wheel Marking Gauge: having a few of these would be advised as you will need multiple settings throughout the project. If you have more than one, it will make your work more consistent since you won’t have to keep re-setting it.

•               Bevel Gauge: this tool will be used for anything other than 90 degree angles.

•               Square: don't skimp on this tool. Find an accurate and reliable one as this will be the foundation of any project.

•               Marking Knife: you will need this if you want air tight joints. A pencil is okay, but you will find that a small pencil line is a thick gap when you cut out your joints.

•               Dividers: this tool is great for laying out consistent distances or spacing out pieces evenly.

Chapter 4 – Basis woodworking techniques

Log Furniture Woodworking

Many of the tools listed in the first section can apply to Log Furniture as well. For instance, hand tools, rulers, squares, circular saws, clamps, and chisels will come in handy.

•               Drawknife: you will need this to peel the logs.

•               Sander: If you don't want to peel the logs, use a high-quality sander to get the job done.

•               Forstner Bits: you will mainly need sizes 3/4" and 2" to make the mortises.

•               Hole Saw Bits: again, you will mainly need 3/4" and 2" size bits and this will make the tenons.

•               Drill: a high-quality drill is needed as this will be the tool that does most of the joinery.

•               Hatchet and Saws: whether you use hand tools or electric tools, you will need a tool to cut the tree down and to rough cut size, and then a saw to cut the logs to actual size.

•               Clamps: Bar clamps or even a strong rope can help you keep the pieces together while the glue dries in the joints.

•               Sawmill: If you are sourcing your own logs, then a sawmill is a great asset to the tool list. Regardless of what type of furniture you are making, some pieces will need a flat side to the log, like bed rails or seat tops on chairs.

Woodturning

•               Lathe: this is the tool that spins the wood, allowing you to keep your tools stationary to make the necessary cuts.

•               Miter saw: to get your lumber to rough blank lengths.

•               Spindle Roughing Gouge:  1 ¼" wide or 32 mm. This tool is used to rough out a blank at the very beginning.

•               Spindle Gouge: ½" shaft size or 13 mm. This tool is used to carve in the details such as concave or convex curves.

•               Diamond-shaped parting tool: ¾" (19 mm) wide by 3/16" (5 mm) thick at the tip. This tool is used to separate parts of the turning and to cut off waste wood.

•               Narrow parting tool: 1 ¼" (32 mm) wide by 1/16" (2 mm) thick. This tool is used to cut apart parts of the turning when trying to match grain patterns. It is only for small pieces though.

•               Skew: ¾" (19 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick. This tool is used to make a smoother cut than the Spindle Gouge.

•               Bowl gouge: ½" (13 mm) shaft size. This tool is used to form the inside as well as the outside of a bowl. It can also be used to make deeper cuts in spindles.

•               Round-nose scraper: ¾" (19 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick. This tool removes other tools' marks and can also be used to remove the small nub in the very center of the inside of the bowl.

•               Square-end scraper: ¾" (19 mm) wide by ¼" (6 mm) thick. This tool removes the tools marks from the outside of the bowl.

•               Side-radius scraper: 1" (25 mm) wide by ⅜" (10 mm) thick. This tool is needed for the inside of the bowl where the bottom starts to flow upwards towards the rim.

Woodcarving

•               Carving Knife: the very first tool needed when starting out, used for paring, chipping, and whittling.

•               Carpenter's Chisel: used to peel simple curls of wood or for flat cutting and finishing.

•               Skew Chisel: same as the chisel above, but has a 45-degree angle.

•               Gouges: these tools scoop out big chunks of wood and can create deep or shallow curves and hollows.

•               Spoon and Bent Gouges: these do the same as the gouges mentioned above, although they can reach places the straight gouges cannot because of their shape.

•               Veining and Parting Tools and Fluters: parting tools are used for narrower cuts, veining tools are used for smaller areas, and fluters are used for wide curvatures.

•               Palm Tools: these are the smaller version of the tools mentioned above.

•               Riffles: a small curved file to smooth out the surfaces of carved areas.

•               Mallet: usually used to hit the end of the chisels and gouges.

•               Leather Thumb Guard: this will protect your thumb from injury when starting out carving.

Pyrography

•               Wood Burning Pen: for this field, this is really the only 'tool' you need, however the following components will make the process easier.

•               Carbon paper: you can print out a design and then trace it onto the wood. If you have drawing skills, a pencil will work just fine!

•               Sandpaper: before you draw or trace on your design, sand your slab of wood.

Scroll Saw Woodworking

•               Scroll Saw: also get a variety of different blades.

•               Sanding Tools: an orbital sander or a sanding block will be needed before you draw out the pattern to cut as well as afterwards.

Wood Mosaics

•               Scroll Saw: again, get a variety of blades for different cuts and shapes.

•               Sanders: belt sanders, drum sanders, hand sanders and pneumatic sanders are very helpful.

Chapter 5 - Woodworking strategies

Regardless of what field of woodworking you decide to pursue, there are some general techniques that you may need to know. There may come a time when a woodturner has to know how to square a board on a table saw, or when a furniture woodworker needs to know how to edge band plywood. Here are some techniques to learn about and try out.

How to Square Rough Cut Lumber on a Table Saw

If you get rough cut lumber or mill your own logs, you will need to know how to square them up. Here is how to square them on a table saw. First you will need to make a jig though.

You will need:

8 1/2" x 48" thin hardboard (if you plan on doing a lot of boards longer than about 6 ft. long, do 96" long hardboard and 1x3 below)

1x3x48 strip of wood

3-5 toggle clamps

Measuring tape

1) Put glue on one face of the 1x3 board and align it parallel with the long edge of the hardboard (smooth side down) and clamp them together until they are dry.

2) Attach the toggle clamps to the top of the 1x3 so they can clamp a board to the hardboard.

3) Place your rough-cut lumber on the jig so that one of the rough edges faces out over the hardboard. Clamp it down and measure the shallowest spot from the 1x3 out. Set your table saw appropriately so that it will cut off all the bark the entire board.

4) Run the board and jig through the blade with the 1x3 up against the fence.

5) Remove the board from the jig, and measure the slimmest part of the board again, this time from the new straight edge out. Set your fence appropriately and run the board through.

6) You now have a squared board and can now use it on the miter saw for a reliable cut.

How to Edge Band Plywood

If you plan on making cabinets, Murphy beds, or anything with veneered plywood, you will need to know how to finish the edges of the pieces before you assemble them. This is only for edges that will be seen, so you can mock assemble it without fasteners to figure out which edges need to be finished. Once you know which pieces need banding set them aside.

You will need:

Pre-glued edge banding (one that correlates with the wood species veneered on the plywood)

An iron

Scissors

Double or Single Veneer Edge Trimmer

Small smooth block of wood

Sanding block (120 grit paper)

Bench Clamp

1) Cut a strip of banding an inch or two longer than the edge it's being applied to.

2) Place the board in a fixed bench clamp with the edge facing up.

3) With the iron in one hand and the veneer strip in the other, start ironing the strip onto the edge. The heat warms up the glue and then sticks to the edge. Be careful and steady though, the glue will melt and stick but it will stay warm for a few minutes and can easily be picked up or moved. Also, if this happens, simply re-heat the glue up and peel the banding up and start over with a fresh piece.

4) Once the entire strip of banding is applied to the edge, quickly grab the block of wood and press the glue into the banding and plywood. This will seal the bond tightly. If needed for longer boards, lead the wood block with the iron to warm up the glue again.

5) Let the glue cool while you trim the ends of the strip flush with the end of the plywood with the scissors.

6) Next, take your single or double veneer edge trimmer and run it along the length of the board, trimming off the extra banding.

7) The banding should be the exact size of the edge it's glued to now, but it might be a little rough. Take your sanding block with 120 grit sand paper and gently sand all the edges smooth to prevent splinters and cuts. If there is any glue residue that oozed out onto the wood, try to sand it off as best as you can. This is an important step especially if you are planning on staining this project. The glue will prevent the stain from soaking into the wood and it will look bad.

8) If you have multiple edges on the same board to band, simply rotate the board and start all over again.

Crosscutting vs. Ripping on a Table Saw

When you rip boards on a table saw, you are pushing them through the blade and the grain pattern and the blade are both going the same direction. They are parallel. This makes the effort needed to push the board through a lot easier since there is no resistance. Crosscutting a board on a table saw means you are pushing the board through the blade but the grain pattern is perpendicular to the blade. Often times, you are crosscutting boards or plywood that are too big to be cut on the miter saw. Usually having a second person help you crosscut is the best tactic to take. One person can keep the board square with the fence and hold the end that hangs off the machine while the other person pushes the board through the blade in an even manner.

Quick Overview of the Types of Joinery

Joinery is where you tell the difference between a good woodworker and a DIY-er. Some techniques are easier than others and some are more decorative while others are more utilitarian. A good technique to learn for traditional joinery is the Lock Joint. It's a good way to make drawers since they hold tight during movement.

You will need:

Two 3/4" thick scrap boards (having two different colored boards would be best as they can be easily distinguished during the learning process)

Table Saw with a Dado blade set 1/4" thick and a normal wood blade

1) Set the table saw up with a 1/4" thick dado. Raise the blade 1/4" up and 1/4" away from the fence.

2) Crosscut the first board at this setting. This would be considered the drawer side.

3) Set the blade height to 3/4" tall. Then for the 'drawer front' stand the second board vertically so that the butt of the board will be pushed through the blade.

4) Next, change the dado set out for a normal blade then set the blade height to 3/8" tall. Move the fence 1/2" from the outside of the blade (instead of the usual inside of the blade). Lay the 'drawer front' down with the fresh cut end up against the fence and send it through.

5) Combine your boards and you have a Lock Joint.

Other common types of joinery look like this:

Brief Look at the Different Species of Wood

Here is a sample of some of the different species of wood. There are many more but these are the most common for woodworking. Take a closer look at the figure (grain pattern), distinctive colorings, knots, and other unique features of the samples. Keep in mind, these samples have a few coats of clear finish on them. Raw lumber tends to be more faded.

Notice the difference between White Maple, Curly Maple, and the Birdseye Maple. They aren't different species of trees, in fact they are all Maple but certain environmental conditions have given them these unique and sought-after effects. Only about 1% of the Maple logs are high quality enough to be labeled Birdseye or Curly.

These figure patterns become more pronounced with how you process the log as well. The least expensive cut, flat sawn, has the least amount of work and waste. The miller cuts the log in flat slabs and you won’t get any unique markings in the grain. Quarter sawn gives the wood some beautiful figuring though. For this type, the log is cut from the center out. Rift sawn is the most expensive technique to purchase. The miller cuts the logs like the spokes on a bicycle wheel, from the center at an angle (between 35 degrees and 65 degrees) outwards. You won't see many rift sawn boards in stock at the lumber mill, but you can always special order them that way.

Pine, oak, birch, cedar, poplar, maple, hickory, cherry, walnut, and mahogany are the common types of lumber you can find in almost any lumber or woodworking store. The other woods in the table are more exotic and often have to be special ordered.

They are more expensive, but they are also usually more stable. Start by working with domestic lumbers until your skills grow, then take the leap and spend the big bucks on the exotic lumbers for a project. You will not be disappointed with the end product and by then you will have less of a chance of screwing up a piece and having to buy more. But if you do make a mistake, especially on an exotic wood, keep it around because you can always make something else out of it like cutting boards, knife handles, carvings, or even wood mosaics.

Chapter 6 - Tips and Tricks for Woodworking

Start small and then build your skills: It's better to start out making modest coffee tables and even simple beds than starting with an ornate mantle pieces or hidden storage, multi-purpose furniture. It will definitely be a challenge, but there is a smaller chance of succeeding and therefore more of a chance of becoming discouraged right out the gates. Know your limits, start with a simple project and then build on your newly learned skills. Learning something right takes time, and it's the practice and researching that will make you great.

Enjoy what you do, lest your work will suffer: If you don't enjoy what you're doing, then it will show in your work. Take pride in what you do, and if you simply can't enjoy that particular field, try a new one! There are many ways to create with wood.

Invest in good tools: This doesn't mean go out and buy the most expensive version of the necessary tools you can find, but it also doesn't mean buy the cheapest tool you can find either. While buying items from garage sales and bargain bins may be tempting, in the long run it will be devastating. Buying a cheaply made tool or sort-of-broken tool can ruin a good project with one use. The experience may leave a sour taste in your mouth or end up costing you even more money in the long run. So, when you shop for your tools, find ones that are decently priced and made with good quality materials. Plus, many tools come with at least a one year warranty.

Be flexible and well rounded: Wood is not like working with clay, metal or even paint. Lumber and trees come will imperfections, knots, bends, cups, and soft spots. Learn about this unique medium by going out and experiencing different species and grades of lumber. Learn how to deal with certain imperfections and how to use them to your advantage. Learn how to pick out the best lumber and prevent issues down the road. Try to find lumber that has been kiln dried, has few, if any, bends and twists, and consistent figure (or grain patterns).

Measure Twice: It is always a good idea to measure twice, and cut once. Take your time when cutting out your lumber pieces and make sure you have the right number of boards at the right width and length. Not doing so could cost you another trip to the store or supplier and more boards. Therefore, take your time in this first stage of a project.

Tape is a friend of plywood: When ripping plywood, placing painter's tape over the cut line will keep the veneer from chipping and burring. Also have a saw blade specifically for plywood; one with a higher teeth count is best. After you cut out your pieces, the tape will easily come off and won't leave any sticky residue that needs to be sanded or scraped off.

Pay attention to which side of the blade you are cutting on: Always cut on the right side of the line. The average saw blade is at least 1/8 of an inch thick. If you cut on the wrong side of the line, it could mess up your overall project. 1/8 of an inch may not seem like much now, but in woodworking it will be a big, unsightly gap. If you are measuring a board with the beginning on the left, after you mark the line of the desired length, make sure the teeth of the blade are on the right side of the line and the thickness of the blade cuts into the 'scrap' piece and not on the side of the line that is your 'keep' piece.

Wipe stain up right after applying: When it comes to modern stain (oil or water based), you will want to apply it with a foam brush and then wipe it off the board with a paper towel no longer than a minute or so later. You can apply it and a few seconds later wipe it up. Stain doesn't take long to penetrate into wood. If you leave the stain on and never wipe it up, or you are working with an already saturated rag or paper towel and the stain just streaks, as it dries it will leave splotches on the wood and it will still be tacky feeling days later. Wipe on, wipe off. Also, allow your used stain paper towels or rags to dry separate on a metal or concrete surface before shoving them into a bag of trash. Stain is combustible and not allowing it to dry in the open air may create a trash fire. If possible (and on a non-windy day) gather your rags right after you are done staining and burn them in a burn barrel or fire pit.

Clean days: Depending on how much time you spend working, save one day a week or a month to deep clean. Saw dust can collect surprisingly fast and will coat everything in the shop, even your finished projects. If you are in there every day, actively working, try to spend one day a week deep cleaning by vacuuming up sawdust from the big tools, sweeping the floor and countertops, and wiping down anything hanging up. Put misplaced tools back in their proper storage areas and you will always know where they are when you need them next. Overall, this will make your working experience more efficient and more relaxed.

Chapter 7 - How to Store Your Tools

Your shop layout will be different depending on what field you decide to go in. Some fields require very little while others require a large shop and lots of storage.

Dimensional and Log Furniture Woodworking, Repair and Restoration Woodworking, and Cabinetry:

These types of fields require some of the largest shop sizes. If you are thinking about making one of these fields into a small business, then you will benefit from having a shop with at least three separate work spaces as well; one for construction of the item where you will cut, sand, and assemble the pieces, one for staining with a good ventilation system, and one for finishing the item where you will also want a good ventilation system. The problem with doing one of these fields as more than a hobby in a one room shop, is that when you get to the point of applying the finish, you can't start cutting out the next project or else you risk saw dust landing on your coats of wet finish and ruining your project. Therefore, your entire shop is out of commission until the finish is done, dried, and cured.

For tool storage, you will need a Flammable Cabinet for all stains, finishes, paints, and aerosols. Wooden or metal cabinets, drawers or tool bags, and shelving will be needed for handheld tools, jars and boxes of different types of fasteners (nails, screws, staples, bolts, and so on), and tool accessories such as; attachments, pegs, sandpaper, biscuits or dominos, and dowels. You will need at least one good work bench, but having many work surfaces is never a bad thing.

Construction and Finish Carpentry: In these fields, you will be traveling from project to project instead of making the project in a shop. Therefore, the 'shop' requirement for this type of work will be a covered trailer. Having a small that just fits your tools will be the minimum, but having a bigger one with a small table or work surface in it will allow you to be able to fabricate a piece of woodworking to install on site as well as store your tools. A very large trailer will allow you to store, work, and haul lumber as well, however it may start getting cumbersome to travel with a trailer that size. Again, work with your needs and wallet to find the right balance.

Woodturning: In itself, the needs of this field can be a smaller space just big enough to processed lumber into the right size blank, and then turn it in the lathe. If you make bowls and cups, a workbench to finish your products would be necessary as well. If you make spindles and then turn them into furniture, you will need the same shop set up as the Furniture makers. Otherwise you could get away with a small space or shop.

Tool storage for this field consists of a covered box or set of drawer for the gouges, parting, and scraper hand tools. Your lathe and miter saw will always be out in its own space.

Woodcarving and Pyrography: This field can also get away with a smaller shop and storage. You will need a sturdy desk or work bench, a comfy chair, and a place to finish your projects. Storage consists of a covered box or set of drawers will keep your hand tools safe and sharp.

Scroll Saw Woodworking and Mosaics: This field will need a work bench, a scroll saw space and a finishing area. Therefore, you could get away with a smaller to medium sized space, depending on the size of your projects. Tool storage consists of a few drawers for some hand tools and a maybe a cabinet or two.

In the end, the size of shop and storage needs depend on how much you want to wood work. If you only do it every so often, you may only need a small space to work in or you can have only a few tools out at a time. If you want to turn woodworking into a small business or serious hobby, you will want a bigger shop with permanent and easily accessible storage for your tools and accessories.

Chapter 8 - Safety While Woodworking

Woodworking can be a dangerous hobby. You will no doubt encounter a plethora of splinters, stubbed fingers, cracked skin, and cuts and bruises to name a few. These are just on the light end of injuries. Serious injuries can occur too. Deep nerve splitting cuts, concussions, and fingers or limbs being impaled are a very real possibility. So, when it comes to safety in the workshop, there are a few key things to remember.

First and foremost, invest in some good ear and eye protection. Some tools, like sanders, aren't necessarily really loud, but they run long enough to affect your hearing afterwards. Eye protection should be worn at all times no matter what, especially with tools that have a spinning motion. Bits of wood sometimes get knocked off and can shoot out in any direction. A good face mask is always a good idea when sanding so you aren't inhaling saw dust which can irritate your lungs easily, but you also want a face mask that will filter out VOC's if you plan on staining, spray painting, finishing or dyeing anything.

Never wear loose clothing, especially if you are working with moving tools like lathes, table saws, miter saws or grinders. It's the same for any clothing that has cords coming out of them like hoodies or scarves. These cords can easily be sucked into a tool or around a tool and pull you towards the moving parts.

Always wear shoes or boots that cover your feet. There will come a time when you drop a board or tool on your feet and you'll be glad you weren't wearing sandals! Steel toed boots are even better.

If you find that a project requires a lot of monotonous work, like ripping a hundred or so boards, take a small 5-minute break after thirty or so boards, even if you don't think you need one. The same movements over and over can make you complacent enough to make a tiny mistake. That tiny mistake can lead to an injury or worse. When working with power tools, or even sharp hand tools, you want to always be focused and clear headed.

When you get a new tool, it always a good idea to read the instruction manual and watch a few videos about how to use the tool before setting it up and testing it out. When you are starting out on a new tool, use scrap lumber first until you are confident in your skills to use project lumber.

When using a table saw, make a push stick out of wood. Throw out those hard-plastic push sticks or keep them just to trace our new wooden push sticks. If the plastic ones hit the blade just right when its spinning, it can send the push stick back at you or throw your entire arm back. If a wooden one hits a moving blade, it may just ruin your push stick. You can also have a sacrificial board for small rips like 2 inches and under. Use your push stick to keep the board down while you pick it through the blade and for the last few inches of the board, switch to the sacrificial board and send them both through the blade. This way you are trying to squeeze your push stick between the fence and the blade hoping you don't torque your board or suck the push stick in.

Sometimes, you just need another set of hands. When cross cutting, ripping plywood, planing, or drum sanding, it's just safer and easier with two people. One person will hold it in place while the other sends it through or one person on each end of the machine sending and catching the board. Don't try to do everything on your own. Especially with big pieces. You'll just end up messing something up or breaking something.

Whatever you decide to do in woodworking, always be conscious of yourself, your surroundings, and the task at hand. Pay attention, be alert, and be confident. Follow this thought and these tips and you will have a safe career in woodworking!

Conclusion

Thank you for making it through to the end of this book, let’s hope it was informative and able to provide you with a good knowledge base you will need to achieve your goals whatever they may be. Woodworking can be an incredibly satisfying and possibly even life-changing hobby! Creating artwork with wood can lead to skills you never knew you could have and maybe even fatten your wallet, and who wouldn't love that? The best thing is to learn new skills that can transfer over to many facets of life. Plus, woodworking is as timeless as we are. It has been around since the beginning and is still an honored skill.

The next step is to pick out a field you may want to try out. Consider the time you have to spend per project, the amount of funds you have to commit, and the work space you have or can build. This will help you hone in on a field or two to try out.  Start with the basics, and slowly build your skill set with practice. Don't expect to have an ornate and perfect table the first time you make one. Instead have fun learning and try new techniques or tools whenever you can. Or sharpen a particular set of skills and become a master! Either way, take the first step and dive into woodworking! You won't regret learning this noble skill.

Finally, if you found this book useful in anyway, a review is always appreciated! 

Description

Have you ever wanted to get into woodworking but didn't know where to start or know what size shop you will need? Maybe you like the idea of woodworking as a way to turn a profit, occupy down time, or just to learn a new skill. Or perhaps you found a field that you are interested but you don't know what tools you need to buy?

Well, you've come to the right place! There are a lot of websites, DIY instructions, and blogs out there that will show you the easy way or 'hack' of how to build furniture, but a true woodworker takes skill, knowledge, and practice to create works of art that will last generations. Don't fall for the 'quick' and 'simple' gimmicks. Instead, take the time to learn how to do things the right way. Start with this amazingly comprehensive book that will lead you through several different fields of woodworking. Then learn about the necessary and important tools per field. You will then get an idea of what tools you will need to invest in and you will learn what sort of shop you will need. Some fields require lots of room or even multiple rooms and some only need a desk top and a plug in. Some fields require many tools and some only require a few. You can combine your wallet, space, and interests to find the right hobby for you!

Some of the woodworking fields mentioned are:

•               Dimensional Furniture Making: use dimensional lumber to create all different types of functional and decorative furniture such as; beds, tables, benches, chairs, dressers, and shelves.

•               Pyrography: using a heated pen to burn wood enough to leave a mark, words or images.

•               Cabinetry: making cabinets, boxes, and chest, typically with plywood and solid hardwoods.

•               Log Furniture Woodworking: using whole logs to create unique and rustic furniture such as; beds, tables, and dressers.

•               Repair and Restoration Woodworking: having extensive knowledge of how wooden items were made though out history and using that knowledge as well as woodworking skills to fix and refinish antiques.

...And many more!

You will also learn about some woodworking techniques like the common types of joinery, ripping and crosscutting on a table saw, squaring rough cut lumber on the table saw, using a miter saw, edge banding plywood, and the different species of woods to use. You will get some tips and tricks from the pros to start out in woodworking and how to stay safe while you work. While technology has really advanced in the safety department, woodworking is still a dangerous occupation and if not done responsibly, can have dire consequences.

So, check out this book today and start your new journey out the right way. Discover new ways to create pieces of functional or decorative furniture, wall hangings, dwellings, restorations, and tableware. Learn what tools you will need and how big of space you will need. Learn about a few techniques and tricks and then get out there and start having fun creating!