THE COMPLETE BOOK OF

WOODWORKING

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2 Books in 1:

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Woodworking Projects for Beginners &

Woodworking Outdoor Projects

The Ultimate Guide for Beginners to Techniques and Secrets in Creating Amazing DIY Projects

Copyright © 2020. Jhon Mc Connell J. USA Woodworking Projects for Beginners & Woodworking Outdoor Projects

By Jhon Mc Connell J. 2020 All Rights Reserved

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No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law.

Also by Jhon Mc Connell J.

Woodworking

Woodworking Projects for Beginners

Woodworking Outdoor Projects

The Complete Book of Woodworking

Woodworking Projects for Beginners

The ultimate step-by-step guide to master the essential woodworking skills,

with all the techniques, tips, and tools for woodworkers

Jhon Mc Connell J.

Table of Contents

Woodworking Projects for Beginners

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INTRODUCTION........................................................1

PART I: WORKSHOP, TOOLS, AND SKILLS...............................4

CHAPTER 1 WOODWORKING SAFETY...................................5

CHAPTER 2 BASIC TOOLS YOU MUST HAVE.............................8

CHAPTER 3 BASIC WOODWORKING  TECHNIQUES AND SKILLS.........17

PART II: PROJECTS FOR INDOOR -STYLISH PROJECTS FOR LIVING ROOM OR OFFICE......23

CHAPTER 4 CONSOLE TABLE  AND DESK...............................24

CHAPTER 5 WOOD TABLE LAMP AND BOOKENDS.......................28

CHAPTER 6 BEAUTIFUL MAGAZINE RACK AND SOFA ARM TRAY TABLE 33

CHAPTER 7 PROJECTS FOR INDOOR -MORE STYLISH PROJECTS FOR LIVING ROOM OR OFFICE......38

PART III PROJECTS FOR  INDOOR- BEDROOM..........................47

CHAPTER 8 MODERN FARMHOUSE BED................................48

CHAPTER 9 MODERN FARMHOUSE  BEDSIDE TABLE  AND PLATFORM  BED......54

CHAPTER 10 COLLAPSIBLE DOG RAMP, CUTE AND STYLISH KIDS BED & HEADBOARD......59

CHAPTER 11 TOY BOX OR CHEST  & SHOE ORGANIZER.................67

PART IV PROJECTS FOR INDOOR - CREATIVE PROJECTS FOR KITCHEN AND DINING ROOM......71

CHAPTER 12 KITCHEN CABINET.......................................72

CHAPTER 13 KITCHEN STEP STOOL....................................76

CHAPTER 14 LARGE SERVING TRAY & SET OF WOODEN SALT AND PEPPER......80

CHAPTER 15 CUPBOARD FOR CUPS AND STOCKS.......................84

PART V PROJECTS FOR INDOOR -BATHROOM..........................88

CHAPTER 16 BATHROOM MAT  AND MULTIFUNCTIONAL BATH TRAY...89

CHAPTER 17 TOWEL RAILS AND CREATIVE SHELF CABINET AND ORGANIZER......93

CONCLUSION..........................................................99

Woodworking Outdoor Projects

INTRODUCTION......................................................102

PART I: MATERIALS, TOOLS, AND TECHNIQUES.......................104

CHAPTER 1 MATERIALS...............................................105

CHAPTER 2 TOOLS FOR WOODWORKING..............................109

CHAPTER 3 TECHNIQUES.............................................115

PART II: OUTDOOR LIVING PROJECTS.................................119

CHAPTER 4 POTTING BENCH  OR POTTING TABLE....................120

CHAPTER 5 THREE BENCH............................................123

CHAPTER 6 PORCH SWING AND ADIRONDACK CHAIR..................126

CHAPTER 7 ADIRONDACK TABLE  AND PICNIC TABLE.................131

CHAPTER 8 BACKYARD PRIVACY SCREEN.............................136

PART III: GARDEN PROJECTS.........................................140

CHAPTER 9 RAISED BED AND ROMANTIC ARCH/ARBOR WITH BENCH 141 CHAPTER 10 CLASSIC WOODEN YARD CART  145

CHAPTER 11 BUTTERFLY HOUSE......................................148

CHAPTER 12 COMPOST BIN, BIRDHOUSE,  GARDEN TRELLIS,  AND CLOSET......151

PART IV: PLANTERS PROJECTS.......................................158

CHAPTER 13 CORNER PATIO PLANTER, SHORT PLANTER WITH LEGS & PATIO GARDEN POND AND PLANTER  159

CHAPTER 14 STRIPPED-DOWN  WINDOW PLANTER BOX................170

CHAPTER 15 BAMBOO PROJECTS......................................173

CHAPTER 16 DIY BACKYARD BAR.....................................182

CONCLUSION.........................................................188

INTRODUCTION

Woodworking is often known as one of the most enjoyable activities of all. You will quickly make your parts by engaging in the use of woodworking equipment and tools. Such pieces are smaller tasks at first, but the abilities improve the elements you make.

Woodworking is a productive craft where wood is cut, shaped, and combined to create ornamental and useful things. The foundational principles are simple to learn, but they are always a diversion, which will be new and daunting as the experience progresses. This book will serve as your introduction for beginners who have little familiarity with the fundamental techniques, tools, and equipment in woodworking.

Like any sport, woodworking allows you to get some basic knowledge. You will need to familiarize yourself initially with different kinds of equipment and woodworking tools available. Every piece of the tool has a particular task. Nevertheless, because you cannot buy every computer and system available, you will learn to adapt that software to multiple applications.

The next stage of woodworking hobby development is to learn how to plan your woodworking projects. The design of the parts that you will manufacture is one step in this process. Next, you need to identify which materials are required, and finally, which specific tools are required to complete the job. You can either design your projects or purchase designs and projects that already detail it. These pre-designed projects will make more sense when you start first and help you to learn the woodwork design and planning process.

Another aspect of project design is to know about different types of wood products. As your hobby skills develop, you will find certain kinds of woods with which you enjoy working. Various types of woods are suitable for various multiple projects. Pine is significantly different from maple, and oak can work harder than ash. These parts of the woodworking puzzle are just more interesting.

Good preparation for woodworking projects is always necessary. The first element of woodworking projects is what you are trying to create precisely. You must also decide for specific purposes to fulfill your intended product. You will also have to determine what style is best suited to.

The most critical step of any woodwork project is preparation. Remember how much time you have and how much money you are going to have to spend. Such vital aspects play an essential role. You will write a detailed specification that contains sketches of the finished product and any subassemblies. This is very important in the planning of your activities. The dimensions of each section of the package must include thorough drawings.

The next part of the strategy is to list all the supplies you need. There is a vast selection of wood and construction materials so that you can choose everything that fits the style while taking the quality, robustness, and aesthetics into account.

Most woodworking projects require the procurement of certain materials. A wide range of tools is available. Some of them are quite inexpensive, and some of them quite pricey. You will strive to choose designs that don’t need the most expensive tools when designing your woodwork projects. You may not have to be so careful with your decisions if you already have some resources.

Nonetheless, before using it, you must test if the devices need conditioning. If your current methods are harsh, this is very necessary. Apart from personal safety concerns, the use of stubborn tools can lead to incorrect and rough cuts or damage to softwood.

The next step in the entirety of woodworking projects is to start the work. This is a fascinating bit for most of us. You have to be very careful when doing it. Follow all instructions, particularly any power tools that come with your tools. So keep in mind that you always wear appropriate safety gear, such as safety glasses. Mistakes can be quite costly at this point. It is essential to stick to your plans and do nothing else.

The next step then is to ensure that your final product is fully completed. This may change the whole appearance of your work. Deciding on an excellent finish will change the look of the entire piece entirely, so consider that carefully. Even the best woodwork tasks can require the planning and execution of plans.

Excellent planning relies on all woodworking tasks. With Step by Step Guides, many things are now different, and woodwork projects technology is simple and easy to build. Before, it took comprehensive skills to make something with your own hands; some people would work as a hobby in their free time; others would take it seriously and turn it into a business.

Today, some people can build their woodworking creations, and the majority of people would call a contractor to build them a piece of furniture, a deck, or even something as necessary as a step ladder. But it would make life more comfortable and fun to learn to create your furniture made from quality wood of your choice.

Woodworking today is more accessible because today, it is quite easy to gain knowledge of woodworking projects. There are lots of information, but some are good, and some are bad. The experience I share with you will help you learn a lot about woodworking and how to continue with simple woodworking projects. Those methods will let you train to become skilled and to be enjoyed learning.

Many people go into the hobby before they even know if it is for them. How to create fantastic woodworking projects? To begin with, before you start your woodworking project, the first thing you want to know is that it suits your interests. The point is, you won’t know unless you try, and that’s a good argument.

First of all, agree that you will start with something small. Maybe a birdhouse or a planter or a decorative shelf. But nothing is too fancy. It can even be a great idea, to begin with, a pack. In this way, during this testing stage, you will not have to invest in many resources. When you completed your test project and found it to be a real pleasure, you are willing to move gradually on to more substantial and better stuff.

Now you have the best chance to know what it means to deal with wood—the time to educate and study. At least if you want to go on, you may reach the fundamentals. Plan to invest in certain magazines and books. Try buying magazines aimed at beginners and watch for the ones that offer free patterns.

The next thing on your list is what information you will need to use. Don’t run out and buy state-of-the-art or high-end equipment. These aren’t required. When you read books, you should have a good idea now what you will need. They certainly gave you reasonable indications on how to pick your devices. Every woodworking project has the equipment, but most of these projects typically cooperate with standard woodworking tools.

Read some details that have come with your equipment before you even start thinking about a severe woodworking project. You must become comfortable and comply with all health rules and guidelines first and foremost. Some severe accidents can occur with the tools you use.

You are now ready to start your project. Make sure you buy a pattern and, ideally, a basic design. When you leap into something too complicated, it can be expensive, and you can be disappointed if it doesn’t work as well as you can.

Woodwork projects require the same discipline as anything you know how to do. The more you do, the more you slowly grow. Try to take a while to take a few classes, maybe. See your nearest investment shops and see whether they are holding workshops. Just make sure you apply to the sort of woodworking you do. When you follow these simple guidelines and continue reading and studying, you can classify yourself as an expert wooden craftsman before you know it.

PART I: WORKSHOP, TOOLS, AND SKILLS

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CHAPTER 1 WOODWORKING SAFETY

A Safe Workspace

A CORNER OF A BASEMENT shed, or garage makes an ideal place to do woodworking—a garage, especially because it’s easy to ventilate. You might even find it practical to set up a work table outside, as long as there’s no rain in the forecast and you have an electrical outlet nearby. Make certain all outlets in your workspace are properly grounded and can handle the load of the tools. No matter what place you prefer to work, you’ll need to have access to a sturdy work surface, around 3 feet by 6 feet and a couple of inches thick, upon which you can hammer and saw wood, and to which you can attach clamps and a vise. Many pieces of electrical woodworking equipment, such as routers and orbital sanders, will have a built-in dust extraction system or the ability to connect to one. For the beginner, these built-in dust extraction systems—coupled with proper ventilation and, ideally, a dust mask—will suffice. As you become more serious about woodworking, you might want to consider investing in a stand-up vacuum system, for example, which will more thoroughly collect sawdust and chips. An industrial vacuum cleaner is another option that works wonderfully for general workshop cleaning. You will need to make sure your workshop is as clean and free from sawdust and wood chips as possible, not only for your health but also because the material can be a fire hazard. Be sure to equip your workshop with a smoke alarm and fire extinguisher.

Using Power Tools Safely

Failure to use power tools properly can impose extreme danger. It is essential that you carefully read and understand the guidelines that come with any power tool before you start using it. Putting on eye protection, particularly safety glasses or safety goggles, must also be kept in mind. Wearing such protective gear will aid in protecting your eyes from flying debris. Aside from the eyes, we must also take great precautions to work with our hands and fingers as it is most prone to cuts and injuries because of getting it too close to power. Your fingers must be kept at a distance of at least 4-5 inches from the bit or blade that is running.

Another given fact about power tools is the loud noise they produce, thus the need for hearing protection as well. Hearing damage can occur even during short exposures to the loud sound of power tools.

10 Safety Tips to Post in Your Shop

Presence of Mind.

Your brain is the most powerful tool in your shop, and you must make good use of it. Think through your actions and movements before doing it. Being fully aware of the things you are doing will actually prevent you from getting injured and, of course, will help not waste your materials too.

Keeping Your Shop Clean

A dirty, unorganized work area is an accident waiting to happen. Maintaining the shop’s

cleanliness will aid in protecting you and your tools from hazards.

Don’t Get Distracted

Always pay attention and concentrate on what you are working on. Avoid distractions such as TV or holding long conversations with someone when working. Never take your eyes off what you’re doing, especially when handling blades and drills.

Never Rush

When we rush completing a project, mistakes tend to happen more. Always remember this is a hobby you should be enjoying and if there’s a need to take a break when you feel stressed or frustrated, go on and take it.

Never Force It

When working with power tools, they must be easy to glide and easy to maneuver. Any presence of resistance might be a sign that something is wrong. It may be stuck, misaligned, or installed improperly. Never force it if you feel such resistance. Rather, turn off and unplug your tool and check the reason why it may be malfunctioning.

Protection is Key

An essential factor of safe tool operation is wearing the right protection gears, which include, but not limited to, ear covers, goggles, masks, work gloves, and lung protection. Make use of push sticks in instances you work near the blades.

Let The Tools Stop

Blades might still be spinning even though you unplugged the power, and touching it can be a grave mistake you can do. So give it time to stop and wind down on its own before handling it.

Dust and Fumes

Airborne dust and solvent fumes are all sources of explosion and health hazards. Keep your working area well-ventilated to have a steady supply of fresh air.

Proper Clothing

Never wear ill-fitting or loose clothing when working. Your hair must also be secured in a bun. Not doing so can lead to your hair or your clothes getting caught in the power tools.

Don’t Work When Intoxicated

Do not drink alcohol when working or don’t work when you’re drunk, as it may cause grave

injuries since it affects your cognitive senses.

CHAPTER 2

BASIC TOOLS YOU MUST HAVE

The best way to see your tools is as an extended body. They give you all sorts of extraordinary strength and expand your creative capacity enormously. However, all this does not occur automatically. It’s only true if you know how the tools work and how you should work with them. However, we deal with wood, so you need to learn how the tools communicate with wood. When working with hand tools, this necessity is immediately clearer, but no less true because you add power.

If your skills are to be extended, in fact, you will have to develop your own capabilities. The raw material you need is a new tool–even a nice one–just out of the box. It should, as you could with a hand plane, be sharpened, tweaked, and setup. Or, as you might have to do with a table saw before it can accomplish the different work you need to do, it may need to be raised, balanced, and accessorized with a cross-sliced sleigh, jig, or dado blade. In any case, a new tool out of the box is not all so different from a new computer; the computer may be exciting and fresh, but until the software is installed and the data are imported, it will not do what you have to do.

Hand Tools

Hand tools are the easiest to get when starting woodwork, as they are often readily available in the home and are inexpensive. Below are a number of the essential hand tools that a basic woodworking kit should be comprised of.

Hammer

The claw hammer is perhaps the most recognizable of all woodworking tools. It not only lets you drive nails into wood pieces but also remove them using the clawed end. The clawed end also serves as a counterweight to keep the hammerhead balanced. It can also come in handy for a variety of other tasks.

Weight is an important consideration when purchasing hammers. A heavier head would mean a stronger force for every stroke of the hammer, which makes driving a nail easier. However, it might also prove a bit more difficult to control. Another important consideration when purchasing a hammer is the handle size: the longer the handle, the faster you can swing the hammer, increasing force. The most preferred weight for a claw hammer is around 450 grams.

Hand saw, Ripsaw and Cross Cut Saw

The hand saw is another hand tool that is almost universally associated with woodworking. And even with the advent of power tools like the jigsaw and the circular saw, many experienced woodworkers find it a must-to-have at least two different hand saws included in their toolset.

Crosscut saw

It is given that there a number of different hand saws. The two essential kinds to have in a starter kit is the rip saw, and the crosscut saw. The focal differences are on how they cut into the wood: the ripsaw cuts along the grain while the crosscut cuts across the grain. Also, note that the number of teeth (denoted as teeth per inch/TPI) determines which saw should be used for cutting a particular size of wood stock. Saws with higher TPI are suited for the smaller stock, while a lower TPI is useful for doing more aggressive cuts on larger ones.

In case you don’t want to have to deal with two separate tools, you can opt to get a saw with

interchangeable blades.

Tape Measure

Accuracy is crucial when working on a wood project, as you want each piece to be exact to the specified dimensions to ensure the correct fit. Here, a tape measure would be more preferred than a ruler, as it is a lot more compact and can be easily carried around where needed. A 25- foot retractable tape measure will be ideal, as anything longer than that can cause a retract mechanism to not work properly.

When buying your tape measure, it is important to check the sturdiness of the hook at the end. When this hook becomes loose, it can slightly slide out of place, which can throw your measurements by as much as an eighth of an inch, which can screw up the accuracy a lot. Also, don’t let the tape rollback too hard, so as not to damage the tab.

Screwdriver

Screws are useful when you want to easily disassemble joined pieces. However, they can be quite a pain in the neck when you down have the right sized screwdriver for the job. A good screwdriver set should come with the most common sizes for Philips and flat-head screws. Though less common, it would also be helpful to have some star drivers and Torx drivers for these types.

In deciding on what screwdriver set to buy, consider the scope of the job that you plan to undertake. In the case of woodworking, where most of the screws you will be likely using are standard Phillips and slotted head types, the preference is more towards the latter. Get a set that uses flared bit heads, which are just about the exact width as the screws you plan on using to not damage the wood when putting on and removing the screws.

Chisel

The chisel is probably one of the more overlooked of the basic hand tools, as it is more often associated with wood carving. However, the chisel can actually be a versatile piece, as it can be used as clean out joints and saw cuts. Furthermore, it can be used for such novel tasks as prying two joined pieces from each other.

When buying chisels, it would be a good idea to grab several different sizes. Choose ones that are made from high-carbon alloy steel or chromium-vanadium alloy steel, as these will resist wear and tear much longer. Also, get those with hardwood grips with metal caps on the ends, since this can take hammer strikes well.

Hand Plane and Block Plane

While beginners sometimes overlook the hand plane, it is one of the essential tools that a woodworking starter kit should have, as it is used not only for smoothing wood but also for shaping it according to needs and trimming it to meet measurements. A block plane is a good starting place for novices. You will probably be surprised to know that getting older block planes is actually a good idea, as the quality of the steel used for the parts is often higher.

Another good plane to acquire is the jack plane. This particular type of plane is useful when dealing with boards that are wider than your block plane. Jack planes are also useful when smoothing the face of a warped board that is too large to be handled by a face jointer (a tool used for cleaning such wood defects).

Power Tools

Power tools are designed to get common woodworking tasks done a lot quicker and easier. These tools come in two different varieties: corded tools, where you need to plug them to a power outlet, and cordless tools that have their own battery pack. Almost all power tools come packed with an assortment of attachments, letting them do the work of several different tools.

Circular Saw

While the circular saw is sometimes considered to be more of a carpentry tool, it has also become indispensable for the woodworker’s craft. The circular saw lets the woodworker do cuts that can be difficult to get with an ordinary hand saw. It can also be made to cut accurately by using clamps to hold the piece, which is ideal for dealing with plywood or fiberboard.

As is with the hand saw, the number of teeth is important when getting a circular saw and saw blade. A blade with more teeth in it produces finer cuts, which is ideal for making accurate slices. Meanwhile, a coarser wheel with fewer teeth is good for quickly cutting larger pieces down to size. Height is another point to consider when choosing circular saws. Get one that has a height range that will allow you to comfortably cut pieces for projects.

Jigsaw

Cutting curves into wood pieces is often a difficult task to accomplish when using regular saws. A jigsaw makes the work easier by giving you better control to guide the direction of the cut. One feature you would want to get with a jigsaw is orbital action. Unlike standard jigsaws, which simply move the blade up and down, orbital action jigsaws angle the blade forward, driving it into the wood in the upswing to produce a smoother cut. Do keep in mind that this feature is usually more common in pricier units, but you still find it.

You also need to take note of the cutting depth of the jigsaw. For woodworking applications, the recommended cut depth would be around 2 inches. While you can get a unit that can provide higher cut depth for other purposes, be aware that such blades would be more prone to bending and breaking.

Table Saw

For many beginners, the table saw would be their first major acquisition for the shop as it is where much of the work will be centered. A table saw lets you cut large pieces of wood, as well as accurately trim smaller pieces to size. Many table saws also come with components that let you cut the varying thickness of wood at desired angles.

When picking your first table saw, it’s important to consider the feature you want to have, as well as those you expect to actually use. From there, you can narrow down your selection to those models that fit your budget while still providing most, if not all, of these.

Power Drill

Just like cutting, drilling holes is another common task you will encounter. Here, you will probably be surprised to know that a corded power drill will be a better recommendation than a cordless one. This is mainly because corded drills are less expensive and will be able to provide constant power much longer.

When going through the available power drills, look for one which has a comfortable grip for easier handling. Getting one that has a reverse action feature will add versatility to the tool. Make sure that your drill bits are compatible with your other tools, like screwdrivers and wrenches.

The router

The router is a versatile power tool that beginners will find handy for a variety of tasks. A stationary model is a good option for beginners, as it will get most tasks done easily. Choose a unit that is at least 2 HP up, which has enough power to handle larger bits.

Another feature that you want to check more closely is the router’s collet diameter. A ¼ inch diameter collet would be a good pick for beginners, as bits for this are a lot easier to find and cheaper. Once you get more experienced with the router, you can switch to the ½ inch variant, which is more stable and create less chatter.

Random Orbital Sander

Of all the woodworking tasks, sanding is definitely one of the most laborious, as you will likely be spending hours to achieve the desired smoothness of the wood surface. The random orbital sander makes this task less tedious while freeing your hands from all the pain of having to vigorously rub sandpaper onto the wood. Another great thing about the random orbital sander is that it lessens the appearance of noticeable sanding marks, as it moves in a random motion instead of a definite pattern.

CHAPTER 3 BASIC WOODWORKING

TECHNIQUES AND SKILLS

Cutting

The first step in building the actual project is cutting. First, look over the project’s Cutting List in detail. Read through the plan and note any angled or curved cuts, taking into account long-point or short-point measurements. Plan your cuts to minimize waste of boards. A good practice is to draw out your boards on graph paper and mark cuts on paper before cutting. You can choose to cut all your boards at once or cut as you go, depending on your workspace. I personally like to cut all of the main box boards first and then cut the trim and face frame boards for the most precise fit. This book does not provide cutting layouts on most projects, because you will most likely be pulling from your scrap pile with nonstandard-length boards after your first project.

Think of a cutting list as the ingredients list in a recipe. It is organized as boards appear in the plan, first giving the quantity needed, followed by the length to cut to, the type of board, and a description of the board.

Ripping

If you are working on a project that uses nonstandard-width boards or chooses sheet goods for boards, you will need to rip the board to size. Ripping, or cutting board down to size in the direction of the grain, should be the first cuts made, as you want the width cut to be consistent from board to board. Most home improvement stores will make flattering cuts for you. Ask to have your plywood cut into strips as directed in the plan. This will make hauling plywood much easier, too. If you are ripping your own plywood, you will need to use either a table saw or a circular saw. For ripping with a table saw, carefully set your table saw fence to the desired width using your tape measure. Have someone helps you run the wood through the table saw. This is a two-person task, as one person will feed the plywood through, and the other person will catch the plywood as it is passed through the table saw. For ripping with a circular saw, mark the cut with a chalk line. Adjust your circular saw blade for the thickness of the wood. Support all parts of the wood so that your saw blade does not get pinched as you cut. And remember: You need to measure each cut as you go because as you cut, sawdust is created, resulting in loss material, altering measurements.

Crosscuts or square cuts

Crosscuts or square cuts are used to cut a board to size needed. A crosscut is perpendicular to the length of the board at a straight 90-degree angle, usually across the grain. It is always good practice to first square up the end of your boards by making a quick crosscut at the very end, since you cannot assume they are already square. At the very least, check the factory ends for square using your carpentry square.

If you are cutting with a handheld saw (a circular saw or jigsaw), measure the cut from the squared up end and mark. Use your speed square to sketch a line at the mark perpendicular to the board length. Considering the width of your saw blade, cut the board along the outside edge of the marked line. Measure your cut to make sure it is accurate to the cut list. If you are using a miter saw, chop saw, or other fixed saws, measure the length of the cut, hold the board flush to a fence on the saw, and make your cut. On your first cuts, take a second to measure and confirm that your cuts are accurate in length.

Angled cuts

Making an angled cut is not too different from making a square cut. You are still cutting a straight line across the grain. It is the marking of angle cuts that will take a little extra effort. If you have a miter, saw or compound miter saw or other fixed saw that cuts angles, simply set your saw at the correct angle as directed in the project plan and cut. Angles in project plans are given as an “off-square” angle. A crosscut or square cut always measures 90° or perpendicular to the board edge. Off square is measured as degrees from the square cut. For example, if the plan calls for a 10-degree off-square cut, the angle itself to the board edge would be 80° or 100°, figured by adding or subtracting 10° off of the square, which is 90°. So first, measure the board and mark the cut to the measurement given as you would a square cut. Use a compass to measure and mark degrees off square. And then draw a line between the measurement and the angle mark. All angled cuts in the plans are noted as long-point or short-point measurements. When you make an angled cut, one end will be the longer end—meaning it will measure longer—and the other will be the shorter end. Pay attention to long-point and short-point measurements as you cut; it will determine what direction the cut is made off of a square.

Curved cuts

In the plans, curved cuts are mostly used for decorative purposes—to soften the lines of a project or to create interest. For the best success with curved cuts, carefully mark out the cut on scrap board. Secure a scrap to your workbench and carefully cut the curve with your saw, considering the width of the saw blade as you cut, cut to either the inside or the outside of the line. When you have made a curved cut you are happy with, use it as a pattern to make cuts on your project. Always use the same pattern for all cuts, and consider saw-blade placement as you cut. For example, always cut to the inside of your pattern marks or cut to the outside of your pattern mark, for the most consistent cuts from board to board.

In most cases, curved cuts will require sanding. Sand with coarse sandpaper followed by medium grit until the cuts are smooth and, if you made multiple cuts from the same pattern, identical. For multiple cuts from the same pattern, consider clamping all cut edges together and sanding them as a stack to create the most consistent edges.

Building

This is my favorite part! We’ve prepared, prepped, and cut, and now it’s time to actually build your project! If you can follow these steps, then you will be confident and cruise right through the building process.

Marking joints

Taking a few minutes to mark your joints prior to actually building will help you put your project together more accurately. Make a dry run of the plans, marking all joints with a square, as outlined in the plans. This dry run will also give you a good understanding of how the project is assembled.

Marking screw holes

If you are screwing your project together, you will want to predrill all holes. As you go through your dry run and mark joints, take a second to also mark the location of all screws. If you are using pocket holes, this is especially important; as drilling a pocket hole can be very difficult once you have started assembly. Predrill all of your screws before building, with screws placed every 6” (15cm) to 8” (20.5cm) and screws on each end of the joint.

Assembling

Nailing

Once your joints are marked, apply glue to the joint, and line up the two boards as directed in the project plan. A good rule is to use the longest nail possible without going through the second board. Clamp boards when possible. Keep your fingers away from the joint, so you don’t accidentally injure them with a stray nail. Apply firm, even pressure, and nail your joint. Nails should be spaced every 6” (15cm) to 8” (20.5cm), and on the beginning and end of every joint.

Countersinking

With your joints marked and your holes predrilled, countersinking should be as easy as applying glue and driving screws. It is still a good idea to clamp boards, and you also may need to predrill pilot holes in the second board to avoid splitting, especially near the ends. Carefully insert your screws. If the board begins to split, remove the screw, and predrill a pilot hole. Self- tapping screws, screws with a tiny sharp edge at the tip that predrill a pilot hole as they are driven, though more expensive, can reduce board splitting and save you time.

Checking for square

As you assemble your project, take a second after each step to ensure your project is square. If a project is square, the diagonal measurements from opposite corners will match up. If the opposing diagonals do not match, push the two corners with the longer measurement together until a square.

Finishing

Once the project is completely assembled, it’s time to finish it. Finishing is always a little scary; you have put so much time and effort into your project, you do not want to mess it up now! Follow these simple instructions to achieve a finish worthy of your beautiful project.

Filling holes

No doubt, building your project has left a screw hole or two shows, and maybe an imperfection that you could live without. Use your putty knife to fill all holes with wood filler, overfilling the holes. Note that wood filler can shrink as it dries, so for larger holes, you will need to apply second or possibly more coats of wood filler. Let the wood filler dry completely between coats. If not completely dried, the wood filler will come off in chunks as you sand.

Sanding

Once the wood filler has dried completely, begin sanding with coarse-grit sandpaper. Sand your project in the direction of the wood grain, evening out joints, and removing excess wood filler. Follow the initial coarse-grit sanding with medium-grit sandpaper, sanding the entire project in the direction of the wood grain. Finish with fine-grit sandpaper if necessary for your type of finish. If you notice any imperfections or holes, apply another round of wood filler. It’s easier to get it right now than later. Repeat the sanding process.

Preparing for paint or stain

After you finish sanding, your project is now covered with sawdust. Vacuum the entire project with a soft-bristled brush, removing all sawdust and debris from the project. Do the same for your work surface to avoid sawdust in your paint. With a slightly damp rag, wipe the project cleans, removing any remaining sawdust particles from the project. Remember, you are only removing sawdust, and don’t want to soak your wood, as that will affect your finish. Let your project dry completely.

Painting or staining

If it looks good au naturel, it’s going to look great finished! Before you paint or stain, take a second to test out the finish on a scrap piece of wood. The time to make adjustments is before, not after, you paint. If you are happy with the results, it’s go time. With the project elevated to your height, preferably on a workbench, turn the project upside down and paint from the center outward. This way, you can avoid covering your sleeves in paint or, at the very least, creating difficulties with painting tight spots. A good rule is to paint the hardest-to-reach places first. Let dry. Once dry, flip your project over and repeat the painting process, starting with the most difficult-to-reach places first, working your way outward. Apply as many coats as needed to achieve your desired finish, as directed on your paint or stain cans.

PART II:

PROJECTS FOR INDOOR -STYLISH PROJECTS FOR LIVING

ROOM OR OFFICE

Console Table

Materials

For the Table:

For the Drawer:

CHAPTER 4 CONSOLE TABLE AND DESK

Steps

First, you must lay-out the dimensions you need for the console table and cut the wooden pieces. Next, you must joint then attach the stock for the top part by gluing them. Build the legs after that. Leg tenons must be cut using a band saw with a measurement of 2-inch-deep mortises. Next, using a drill press, clamp your pieces, so they will stick together well.

You can also opt to manually cut the mortises by securing the pieces using a vise, then eliminating the mass of the waste using a drill bit, and by utilizing a chisel, you can clean the mortise walls. In the same way, slice mortises in the two cross braces. After this, profile the cross braces and feed on your band saw followed by fabrication of the leg tenons you can do on a table saw snugged with a stack of dado cutters, or you can also do it manually with a tenon saw. Glue the two assemblies after fitting tenons into mortises. Form the stretcher then join it to the top part of the cross braces using ½ notch joints. This top part must be securely placed using wood screws surpassing the oversized drilled parts in the braces. These drilled parts or oversized holes will let the table adjust during humidity changes. The bigger part of the table is made of a combination of pine and cherry for the bottom, sides, and drawer back, maple for the front. Because of this, I recommend adding the drawers upon completion of the table because of the drawer’s feature not being originally affixed in the plant.

After putting the drawer, sand the rough edges and finish the table and drawer with stain.

Image/Diagram

Desk

Materials

●  Pallets.

●  Extra poles for the legs.

●  Paint.

●  Hammer.

●  Nails.

●  Stain.

●  Saw.

●  Pencil.

●  Measuring tape.

Steps

Remove all the wood from one pallet and cut the lengths of the board in half. Screw these in place on the second pallet, and then sand it down, so you don’t have to worry about splinters. Make sure there are no cracks or rough spots, then stain. Once the stain has dried, flip the piece over. Paint all 4 poles the color of your choice, and place them at equal distances at the bottom of your table. Screw securely in place. Make sure there are no rough spots, and your new table is ready.

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CHAPTER 5 WOOD TABLE LAMP

AND BOOKENDS

Wood Table Lamp

Materials

Sandpaper

●  Pencil, level (optional).

●  Wood.

●  Palm sander (optional).

●  Drill.

●  Saw (use if you desire to straighten the bottom and top of the wood).

●  3⁄8” x about 12″ to 18″ drill bit (length will vary depending on the height of the wood).

Steps

Begin by getting any piece of wood for your lamp. You may get it anywhere from your backyard to buying wood pieces from online stores. The one I used in this project is a block of red cedar. This one is irregular in shape and kind of triangular in most of its parts. Your piece of wood will be different from what I got, but it’s always up to you what shape you want your lamp to be. In my case, I already liked most of the shape, so I sanded it using a palm sander and just removed some barks to even out the shape. For the bottom and top of the lamp, I like to be more parallel, so cutting the smaller end using a hand saw became my solutions. Then I mark a cut line making use of a level. In order for you to do this, draw a level line on the two sides of the wood.

After I cut the wood using a hand, saw, but if you have a band or table saw, the task will be easier for you, especially if you have a hardwood like mine. Next, I made a hole through the wood for the lamp wire using a drill. You must make the hole 3/8 inch, at least. To make it stable while drilling, use a vise, or have someone hold it for you. Then, make another hole (3/8 inch) through the back part of the lamp going to the first hole enable for the wire to exit the back part.

After finishing the holes, you can now apply wood stain or sealant. Lastly, install the lamp fixtures following the guide on your lamp kit.

Bookends

The easiest way to make a bookend that works is to evaluate why typical bookends–both heavyweights and lightweights–fall down on the job. The Shop Info box on the next page highlights some of the things you have to take into consideration when designing bookends. After reading it, you’ll understand exactly why the Bookends here look the way they do (and why some different-looking bookends might not work so well under pressure).

Materials

The main part of the Bookends (the L-shape) is made from solid 4/4 oak, for looks and strength. The base plate that slides under the books is actually made of brass. But don’t worry about cutting this thin metal - it’s made easy with a simple hardboard backing.

●  (4) No. 8 X 1 ¼ inch woodscrews.

●  (8) No. 6 X ½ inch brass screws.

●  (2) 1/16 inch thick brass (3-inch x 6 inches).

Wood

●  Base 2- ¾ x 5- 3 ½

● 

Base 2- ¾ x 4-8

Steps

●  Recess base

It’s best to cut the recess first and then cut the plate to fit snug in the recess. To do this, use an “h” straight bit in the router table. Adjust the router, so the bit sticks up above the table the thickness of the plate (use the plate material itself as a gauge).

●  Set fence

To establish the size of the recess. Set up the router table using the fence and two stop blocks.

To set the length of the recess, position the fence 2” from the far side of the bit.

●  Set stops

Then stops are used to control the width. I clamp plywood scraps to the router table, so their edges were 4’’ from either side of the bit then, 1 routed the recess, using the fence and stops to control the limits of the cuts.

●  Clean up corners

After the recess has been routed in the base, square the corners with a chisel.

●  Make the plate

Now the plate can be installed. This takes two steps: cutting the plate to size and fastening it in position.

●  Cutting thin material

Cutting thin material on a table saw is tricky. The problem is the edge that overhangs the slot in the table insert vibrates as the blade cuts, and the edge ends up ragged. To help prevent these problems, I backed the base plate with hardboard.

●  Cut to size

Now cut the plate and hardboard to size on the table saw. Begin by sawing off one side to make sure one edge of the plate and hardboard is even). Note: Brass is very soft and is easy to cut witl1 a carbide-tipped saw blade. Next, set the fence to the width of the recess in the base. With the freshly-cut edge against the fence, rip the plate to the width, and test the fit in the base. Then cut it to a length of 6”.

●  End profile

After the plate is cut to size, cut a semicircle at the end that will slip under the books. To do this, first, draw the arc on the backing. Then, clamp the piece with the hardboard side up, cut the curve to shape with a jigsaw, and file it smooth.

●  Chamfer edges

Before installing the plate, chamfer its edges on the router table. To do this, set the height of the chamfer bit, so it takes just a tiny cut off the edge. Then, with the plate facing down, guide it past the bit with the hardboard riding on the bearing. Finally, smooth the chamfer with 220- grit silicon carbide paper. Then carefully separate the plate from the hardboard and knock off the other sharp edges with the sandpaper.

●  Mount the plate

After the edges are smooth, the plate can be mounted to the base. This is where the method will differ slightly, depending on wheU1er the plate is plastic laminate or brass.

●  Plastic laminate

A plastic laminate plate can be glued to the base with epoxy. Begin by roughing up the surface that will be mounted in the recess with 60-grit sandpaper. Then glue the plate in place.

●  Brass

To mount the brass plate, I used a stick that dates back to the days when gunmakers would inlay decorative brass matchboxes on the stocks of woods. The trick involves fastening the plate with brass screws, then filing off the screw heads flush with the plate.

●  Install screws

To install the screws, position the plate in the base recess. Then, Drill pilot holes through the plate and into the base.

●  Countersink

After drilling the pilot holes, countersink just deep enough, so the screw head is just partway into the plate (the screw slot should be a little higher than the plate surface).

●  File flush

After the screws are tightened, file the heads off flush with the plate. This gets rid of the screw slot. Leaving a solid brass “rivet” holding the plate to the base. Then sand and polish the bottom of the plate smooth.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 6 BEAUTIFUL MAGAZINE RACK AND SOFA ARM TRAY TABLE

Beautiful Magazine Rack

Materials

Woodcraft

2 wall hangers, 2”x 9/16”

Steps

Start by slicing the sides to the required dimensions. You can also do what many woodworkers do, stack wood pieces on top of one another to slice identical parts in length. For some, to have accurate cuts, they do it with a miter saw equipped with a stop on an extended table. You measure, draw, and slice the wood materials. All remaining parts of the shelf are fabricated to the same length, after crosscutting the sides. For this step, prepare to use a stop- block, which can be done with ease on miter saws even when you have no extension on your table. Set aside the 7 of the pieces as they are finished. The three remaining pieces will be used for the shelves and are needed to fix by ripping. Situating a front piece facing down and fitting tight against a rack side that’s set on its edge enables you to measure the width of the shelves. Fix the body a combination flatly on the side of the racks using a ruler. Place the body of a combination square flat on the side of the rack using a ruler lengthening to just reach the front piece. Then lock the square. After this, mark an incision line on the three shelves using your pencil to make markings and your combinations square set-up. Handle the pencil at the tip of the square, glide the unit further along the shelves. To make these cuts, use a jigsaw and let it stay to the waste of each line. Use a block plane to trim the wood pieces to their set width. Now that all the pieces needed for the rack are measure and cut to their needed dimensions, you can now soften its look by doing more shaping of the stock. Most of the time, it’s complicated to make perfect flushes to the face of the front and sides. To fix this, you can sand-flush the rough edges. You can also round it using a sandpaper and block plane if the variation is only slight. Station the plane for lightweight cut and do some passes along the front’s edges by beginning on the end-grain edges. Round these edges using a plane and polish them down with #150 sandpaper

Using pocket screws, all horizontal pieces are connected to the sides. Make a total of 4 holes in the hanger support and back face of each front piece. You can use the least beautiful piece for your support. You can also opt to make 2 holes in front pieces than 4 holes.

With regard to the shelves, it requires 3 drilled screw holes–one in the center, second to fix the shelf to the adjoining front and last for the middle part. Like previously done, refine all parts by sanding them first, and then assembly comes next. It is essential to let the side pieces erect on its end and on a flat surface; the other one, front pieces, must be laid down with its end side to the rack’s side. Join the pieces (front) to a side by beginning at the top. Screw until it is well attached following a spacing of about 2 ½ inches or 3 ¼ from the piece connected directly above it. Slice a block for a particular size.

Do this repeatedly until all pieces are utilized, and the desired height of your magazine rack is achieved. It’s your option if you desire to attach brass handles to the back but ensure you seek at least one stud on the wall for additional support.

Image/Diagram

––––––––

Sofa Arm Tray Table

Materials

1 - 2x4

3 - 1x4

NOTE: All board lengths are 8’ long unless otherwise noted.

●  Pocket hole crews.

●  Polyurethane.

●  Choice of stain.

●  Pocket hole screws.

●  Wood Glue.

●  Pocket Hole Jig.

●  Miter Saw.

Cut List

●  6 Bottom Base Pieces measured at 3.5” x 18”

●  6 Table Top Pieces measured at 3.5” x 18”

●  2 Legs measured at 3.5” x 36”

●  2 Middle Cross Pieces measured at 3.5” x 13.5”

●  1 Middle Cross Piece measured at 3.5” x 10.5”

Steps

FROM THE 2 X 4 CUT the legs and make the two middle shorter cross pieces from the 1x 4. Using a ruler or tape measure, mark 18” from each end of the legs and glue these pieces with screws from the underside. In this project, this is the only placed pocket holes will be utilized. All other joinery can use 1/4 inch or 3/8-inch sized dowels. One reason why I prefer dowels to be used on joinery is due to its added visual aesthetic. The two middle cross pieces that are lingering in size can be joined together and clamped with glue. Let this dry for a minimum of one hour or even overnight. Once dry, you may now make dowel holes by making use of the drill.

Three along the bottom and two on each side, this is where holes must be made. The bottom and top pieces of wood are again affixed with glue (1 x 4s as listed on our cut list). So, glue together a total of 5 (1x4s) and trim or cut the wood to its utmost size that is 18”x 18”.

At the same time, you may clamp the two pieces together. Carefully, position as required to be able to reach over the armrest of your choice and from bottom and top, drill for ½ “dowels.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 7 PROJECTS FOR INDOOR

-MORE STYLISH PROJECTS FOR LIVING ROOM OR OFFICE

Reclaimed Wood Key Hanger

Materials

●  Nails (I recommend the rusty ones for your rack to have some style however if you are afraid of getting a tetanus virus then you can just color the nail with brown).

●  Varnish.

●  Screws.

●  Hooks.

●  Steel for the frame.

Steps

It is produced by using little screws at its back so that you cannot see it when you hang it up on your door or wall.

The rusty nails are integrated into it to create a more classic and natural look, which is truly astonishing if you are aiming to have a traditional house theme in your bedroom.

Its varnish will ensure that the rack will not deteriorate quickly and, at the same time, will give it a better appearance.

You will need to put blocks on the back by using a drill to support it when it is hanged. The holes are not too deep to avoid damaging the interior of the pallet wood.

Image/Diagram

––––––––

Multi-Level Plant Stand

Materials

●  Sandpaper.

●  Drill, Level, and Hammer.

●  2 wood pallets.

●  Wood screws.

●  Wood, 2 by 4 inches.

●  Saw and Nails.

●  Paint and Paintbrush.

●  Wall anchors.

Steps

IN THE FIRST STEP, you have to sand the surface of the wood to get smooth surface pallets. You can use the underside of each pallet. Wood screws and drills will be used to attach the pallets to each other. Keep one pallet on the top of each pallet in the same direction. The undersides will grasp the shelves.

Gauge the interior of the top pallet for width and cut the wood in the size of 2 by 4 inches. Insert this wood in the horizontal direction into the pallet and keep it 6 to 8 inches from the top of the wood. Check the level of the wood to make sure it is even before keeping it on the top of the wood. Secure the shelf with the use of hammer and nails. Repeat the same process for every shelf. You can paint your shelves or leave them unfinished to get a rustic look. With the help of wall studs or anchors, you can fix the shelving unit into the wall.

Image/Diagram

Angled Floating Bookshelves

The creation of shelves is a good place to start due to the simple nature of their creation. These shelves will be floating shelves, meaning that there will be no visible supports beneath them. This creates a very minimalist aesthetic and looks visually impressive when done properly.

Materials

●  At least two 2-2.5 inch screws.

●  Two to four nails, .75-1 inch long each.

●  Carpenter’s glue.

●  A wooden post, about one inch thick, and as long as you need your shelf to be.

●  A hollow rectangle of wood, to act as your shelf. Only one side of it should be open, and the inside measurements should match that of the post.

Steps

Find where you want to place your shelf, and measure the ideal length. Keep in mind stud positioning as you find your ideal shelf placement. Write the length down somewhere.

If you do not already have the wooden post, create one by cutting it out. Use a straight edge to trace along with your board, and cut it out using a bandsaw or circular saw.

If you do not have your hollowed rectangle, create one. The wood used here should be thin, less than a half an inch for sure. Start by tracing out two identical rectangles, with the length being the measurement of your post plus twice the width of the material being used to create the shelf, and the length should measure about a foot to a foot-and-a-half long. Next, trace out two more rectangles that are the depth of your post, and the length of your shelf. Finally, one final rectangle, this one for the outside edge, should be as long as your post, plus double the width of the material used to create it, and as wide as it too, plus double the width of the material used to create it. Glue these pieces together to create your shelf. Since all of these cuts will be straight, you can use a band or a circular saw.

Take your post, which will be the length of your shelf, and screw it into the wall using a handheld electric drill, screwing only into the studs when possible. If your shelf comes up short of a stud on one side, carefully drill into the wall. Make absolutely certain that you are drilling level, using a leveling tool to denote this. Not where you place screws with pencil marks on the top of your post.

Paint or stain your shelf, if desired.

Once this is done, dry-fit your shelf to your post, hold it stable and press it into the wall.

Check for flayed wood, or an uneven cut, and make sure that it fits snugly into the wall.

Remove the shelf from the wall and apply the carpenter’s glue to both the inside edge of the shelf and the post upon which it will rest. Place the shelf back on the post, and hammer it into place using small nails.

Rustic shelf

Materials

●  Planks/ Pallet.

●  Hooks.

●  Cords.

●  Saw.

●  Driller.

Steps

Measure the length of the planks that are going to be used as the shelf’s surface. Cut the planks to the same size and level right to the ends; mark where the holes for the attached cords will be and drill the holes. Pull the cord through the holes and secure the shelf with sailors’ knots under each shelf.

Coat Rack and Hat Rack

Materials

●  Pallets.

●  Hammer.

●  Nails.

●  Stain.

●  Saw.

●  Screws.

●  Screwdriver.

●  Paint.

●  Sandpaper.

●  Hooks.

Steps

Decide how big you want your coat hanger to be and cut the pallet down to this size. Remove the backing, and leave the support boards in place, so the wood lies flat against your wall.

Sand down the wood first, and then paint it any color you want. The brighter the colors, the better. Let the paint dry, and then add the hooks wherever you want them to be.

Add a hanger to the back of the rack, and that’s it!

Image/Diagram

PART III PROJECTS FOR

INDOOR- BEDROOM

CHAPTER 8 MODERN FARMHOUSE BED

Materials

Steps

●  Start and Finish the Rails

Using the measurements from your mattress, cut the rails for the sides, headboard, and footboard to rough length. Normally, an extra 1’’ is more than enough, but in this case, you’ll want to cut one bottom and one top rail 4” to 6” longer than needed. Joint one edge then set your table saw fence to 61⁄2” and rip the side rails and the bottom rails for the headboard and footboard. Reset your fence to 41⁄2” and rip the boards for the top rails. Place the headboard and footboard pieces safely aside for now. Using your miter saw, or circular saw and the edge guide cut the side rails to length. The extra 2” allows some wiggle room for the mattress, so it’s okay if you’re off by as much as 1⁄4”. Just make sure that the rails are the same length. Cut the ledger strips, so they are 3” shorter than your side rails. After cutting them to size, drill, countersink, and attach the cleats to the rails using 11⁄2”-long screws, spaced about 12” apart. Knock the sharp edges off the rails and ledger strips. The fastest way to do this is with a router and bearing-guided chamfer bit.

Lay both rails on your bench, so the ledger strips are facing up. Use a centering bit to drill pilot holes, then screw the metal clips in place.

Before putting the rails aside, apply at least one coat of finish to protect them from glue and miscellaneous shop stains. Temporarily remove the hardware, plane, and/or sand the rails up to 220 grit, then wipe on a coat of oil. Wait 20 minutes, and then wipe away any excess. Apply at least three coats before top coating with wax.

●  Making the Legs

Start by cutting the legs to rough length (cut the headboard legs to about 46” and the footboard legs to about 33”). Joint one edge, then set your table saw to 31⁄2” and rip all four pieces to width. Now that they’re a more manageable size, trim the headboard legs to 441⁄2” and the footboard legs to 32”.

Using your router table and 1” radius bit, round over the outside edge of each leg. Lower the operating speed of your router to prevent damaging you, your router, or your workpiece. After softening the outside corner, knock down the remaining three sharp edges with a chamfer bit set just below 1⁄8” high. Now for the fun part. Clamp one leg to your bench. Using one or more of your favorite planes, knock down any bump that might exist at the edge of the rounded-over corner. Concentrate on knocking off any ridges along the corner to make the fairest curve possible. If your planes are working to your satisfaction, continue smoothing the outside faces of the leg. Alternately, you can hand sand or use a random-orbit sander to smooth the legs up to 220 grit.

You no longer need the pencil marks on the tops of the legs to know which end goes up. The sand, plane, or slice off the reference marks you made earlier (no one will know if your leg is 1⁄32” shorter than the given dimension). Next, secure the leg to your bench, bottom end up. At this point, you’re ready to chamfer the ends. The chamfer on the bottom end prevents the wood from catching and splintering; on the top, it’s purely for decoration. Cutting a chamfer with a chisel is easier than you might think. Start by making short, light cuts. Resist the chisel’s inclination to drive itself too deeply into the wood. Aim for about a 1⁄8”-high chamfer, but feel free to stop when it looks good. After chamfering, the bottoms of all four legs, sharpen your chisel and do the top ends (alternately, you can make the chamfer using a file or sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood).

●  Making the Headboard and Footboard

Headboard and footboard rails usually rely on tenons to attach them to the legs. Tenons are a good choice; they’re solid enough to help keep the frame square and can be designed to allow single-plank headboards room to move in response to changes in humidity.

●  Starting the rails and finishing the slats

Pull out the headboard and footboard rails you made at the beginning of this project and cut all four boards 2” shorter than the width of your mattress or box spring next, lay them out on your bench and pick out the best faces of each and arrange them to make the most attractive pairs. Knots or other blemishes can usually be hidden simply by flipping the board. Temporarily put the rails aside and start cutting the slats. To make the slats, begin by cutting the 3⁄4”-thick wood to rough length.

Join one edge, then set your table saw to 21⁄4” and rip the strips to final width. Using your router and chamfer bit set to 1⁄8” high, or just your block plane, chamfer the long edges of the four rails and your slat stock. It’s easier to sand and finish the slats now than to attempt to work between them once they’re joined to the rails. Finish-sand all surfaces up to 220 grit, and then apply one or two coats of oil. While you’re waiting for the oil to dry, focus your attention on the rails. Replace your sawblade with the inner and outer blades from your dado cutter and set the cutter height to 1⁄2”. Cut a 1⁄2”-wide groove centered along the bottom edge of the top rail and the top edge of the bottom rail. Start by making one pass, then turning the board end for end and cutting a second pass.

Before moving or removing the jig, cut two or three extra-long and short slats, just in case you make a wrong move later on in the assembly process. Adjust the dado cutter so that it’s just 1⁄8” high and 1⁄4” away from the fence. Next, using your miter gauge to guide a sample slat, cut a tenon on one end. If necessary, you can adjust the fit by changing the cutter height.

●  Making mortise strips

The mortise strip starts out as a 41⁄2” by 52” board dadoed across its top face; it’s then ripped into strips that fit into the grooves cut into the headboard and footboard rails. Making four rows of “mortises” at once is faster than cutting them separately, and it ensures the holes in the bottom and top rails line up. Start by cutting the mortise board to rough size. Plane or resaw a board to 9⁄16”. Cut the board to 52” long (2” longer than your headboard and footboard rails). Draw lines at each end of the board to indicate the final length. Use a 21⁄2”-wide scrap spacer and one of the actual slats to layout the dadoes. Center the first dado at the midpoint between your two pencil lines. Using the spacer board as a guide, start the second and third dado 21⁄2” away from the center dado (on either side of the center dado). After laying out the three center slats, use the spacer to position the first end slat 21⁄2” in from the pencil line and a slat to obtain the exact width of the dado. Draw X’s on the dadoes, to ensure that you don’t accidentally rout out “good” wood. After marking out the board, the next step is to cut the dadoes with either the table saw or the router.

To turn those dadoes into mortises, adjust the bevel angle of your table saw to 3°, then set your table saw’s fence to rip a strip a hair thicker than the groove you made in the rail. When you rip the dadoes board, orient it, so the notched side is wider than the unnotched side. Make sure to align the end marks on the notched strip. Use as little glue as possible; you don’t want squeeze-out to fill your brand-new mortises. The mortise strip was made 1⁄16” thicker than the depth of the groove. Use a hand plane to trim the strip flush with the edge of the rail, Set your plane for a light cut and balance it on the exposed strip. Stop planning as soon as the blade bites into the rail.

●  Assembling the headboard and footboard

Before you can start pulling the headboard and footboard together, you’ll need to cut biscuit slots in the legs and end rails. Start by cutting a pair of biscuit slots in a scrap of 61⁄2”-wide rail to see how far you can space the slots without coming out through the edges. Then transfer the slot locations to the leg stock. Continue laying out the slot locations on the bottoms of all four legs and both ends of the bottom ends of both end rails. Repeat this step using the 41⁄2”-wide rail scrap to position the slots for the top rail.

The rails are offset from the legs by 1⁄4”. To offset the biscuit slots, place a leg flat-side down against your bench, lay one 1⁄4” spacer under your biscuit joiner, and cut the bottom slot. Insert two more 1⁄4” spacers under the joiner and cut the higher slot. Repeat on all four legs. To cut the slots in the rails, place the rail against your bench, inside face down, and cut the biscuit slots, first with no spacer, then with two. When the rails are fit against the legs, their biscuit slots will be offset 1⁄4” in from the edge of the leg. Repeat the biscuit-cutting process on all four rails.

You’re now set to assemble the headboard and footboard. Assembling this many pieces at one time can be tricky, so try a dry run without glue. This is also the perfect time to enlist an extra pair of hands to assist with positioning the slats as you clamp things together. Glue the slats into the rails, glue the rails to the legs, use as many clamps as necessary to pull it all together, and check for a square. When clamping, it’s okay if the top rail shifts down slightly, but make sure the bottom rail doesn’t move from your original layout lines.

Give the glue at least an hour before removing the clamps. You should allow the glue at least a full day to cure completely, but at this point, you can remove any drips, finish-sand the legs, and coat unfinished surfaces with oil. After two or three coats of oil, apply a coat of wax to all finished surfaces and buff to a shine.

●  Making the Bed

Mount the bed-rail fasteners to the headboard and footboard legs, as shown in the drawing at right. Use a centering bit to drill the pilot holes, and then attach the metal clips using 1” #8 wood screws. Attach the side rails to the headboard. If everything was installed correctly, the two should clip together. Be careful not to twist the rails around too much at this point. The fasteners are sturdy enough to aid in supporting the weight of the mattress and sleeper, but they can be damaged by levering the rail from side to side. Cut the support planks about 1⁄8” shorter than the distance between the side rails. The materials list specifies five or six planks, but if you’re going without a box spring, you may need a few more. Alternately, if you install enough planks, so there is less than a 1” gap between boards, you can use a softer futon-like mattress. Complete the bed with a box spring, mattress, mattress pad, linens, and comfy pillows, and it’s ready for a well-deserved rest.

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CHAPTER 9 MODERN FARMHOUSE

BEDSIDE TABLE AND PLATFORM BED

Modern farmhouse bedside table

Materials

●  Square.

●  Z-clips.

●  Table saw, or band saw.

●  Miter saw.

●  Drill and small twist bit.

●  Sander.

●  Router and decorative edge bit (optional).

●  3/4” 3 4” solid stock for top and aprons.

●  1 1/2” 3 1 1/2” solid stock for legs.

●  Mortising machine or plunge router with a straight bit and mortising jig.

Steps

Determine the size of the legs, aprons, and tabletop. Glue and clamp up an oversized blank for the tabletop and set aside. Cut legs to length and carefully layout mortises then Machine mortises. Using a tapering jig, cut the tapers on the inside of each leg (this is the side with the mortise on it). This procedure may be done on the table saw, band saw, or with a hand plane. Layout and cut the tenons on each end of all four aprons. Check for a snug fit in the mortise, and miter ends at 45° so that they meet in the center of the mortise. Mill a groove on the inside of each apron to accept the Z-clips Sand legs and aprons then glue and clamp two separate leg- and-apron assemblies, each consisting of two legs and an apron to make sure the assemblies are square. While these are drying, cut the tabletop blank to size and rout a decorative edge on it if desired, and then sand it. Glue and clamp the two leg-and-apron assemblies together with the remaining two aprons, again checking for square. When the base of the table comes out of clamps, place it upside down on the bottom of the tabletop, and position it so that there is an equal overhang of the tabletop all around the frame. Insert Z-clips in grooves, two per apron, and mark and drill the hole for the screw. Finish the table base and top as desired. Attach top.

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Platform Bed

Materials

●  1” 3 12” pine.

●  1” 3 6” pine.

●  3/4” plywood.

●  10 L-brackets and screws.

●  2 1/2” screws.

●  6d finish nails.

●  Square.

●  Circular saw, or power miter saw.

●  Table saw and dado blade or router table and 3/4” straight bit.

●  Drill, 1/8” bit, and 3/8” flatbottom bit.

●  Drill press and 3/8” plug cutter.

●  Chisel or plane.

●  Sander.

––––––––

Steps

MEASURE THE MATTRESS you will be using on your bed. Subtract two feet from the length and width of the mattress. This is the size of the box that will be built to support the platform.

Use the 1” 3 12” pine to build the box. Use simple butt joints to attach the sides to the ends. Counterbore 3/8” holes 3/8” deep; drill 1/8” pilot holes, and use 2 1/2” screws. Using 1” 3 12”s will result in a low bed. If you desire a higher bed, glue up material to reach the desired height. Use the plug cutter on the drill press to make plugs to fill the counterbores you made in the base. Glue in place; when dry, plane or chisel flush with the surrounding surface.

Add 1 1/2” to the length and width of the mattress and cut the 3/4” plywood to these dimensions. If you are building a twin bed, a single sheet of plywood will be enough. A bigger bed will require two sheets. If two sheets are needed, the joint between the two should run across the width of the bed. The two pieces should be reinforced from below using pine or plywood scrap glued and screwed in place. Center the base on the plywood platform and fasten them together with the L-brackets.

Turn the bed right side up. Joint, rip, and joint the 1” 3 6” material to 5 1/4” wide. Mill a 3/4” dado 1/4” deep in the 1” 3 6” material. Cut the 1” 3 6” material to fit around the plywood. Pieces should run the length of the long sides, with the ends fit between them. Counterbore 3/8” holes 3/8” deep and predrill for the screws using a 1/8” bit. Spread glue in the dados on the rails, fit onto the plywood and attach the side rails to the head and foot rails with 2 1/2” screws. Drive 6d finish nails through the rails into the plywood, spacing them about 10 inches apart. Make plugs and glue into the counterbored holes, when the glue is dry, plane or chisel flush. Sand and finish as desired.

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CHAPTER 10 COLLAPSIBLE DOG RAMP, CUTE AND STYLISH KIDS BED & HEADBOARD

A dog ramp can help your disabled or older dogs get in and out of the vehicle or go all over short stairwells. A ramp that can be folded has the additional advantage of having the option to be put away when not being used and conveyed and set up effectively when required. Dog ramps are accessible for buy at pet stores and other specialty stores, yet with minimal effort, supplies and time, you can make and tweak your own ramp for your pooch.

Collapsible Dog ramp

Materials

●  Saw.

●  Utility knife.

●  Tape measure.

●  Staples.

●  Screwdriver.

●  Heavy-duty staple gun.

●  1 6 foot by 15-inch piece of carpet.

●  2 Slide bolts kit.

●  2 2 1/2 foot by 16-inch piece of lumber.

●  4 135-degree heavy duty angle brace.

●  4 2 1/2-foot-wide baseboard molding.

●  12 1 1/4-inch drywall screw.

●  2 Heavy-duty hinges kit.

●  1 2 1/2 foot by 6-inch piece of lumber.

●  24 1/2-inch flathead screw.

Steps

Join the four 2 ½ foot-wide baseboard trim to the two 2 ½ foot amble with six ¼ inch screws on each side. Secure the screws through the thickest piece of the trim to guarantee that the molding is safely attached to the wood. This will make the principle bit of your ramp.

Turn the ramp over to the other side, and the bottom side should be the one you’re working on now. Attach two of the 4 135 degrees rock-solid edge support, to the corner of the top using flathead screws. Connect the 2 ½ foot by a 6-inch bit of wood to the point supports with a similar ½ inch flathead screws. Guarantee that the edge of the highest point of the ramp and the 6-inch bit of timber is flush. At long last, secure the canine slope by appending the staying two edge supports to the structure with the ½-inch flathead screws adjacent to the point supports previously joined.

Using two heavy-duty hinges, connect (2) 2 ½ foot wood parts together to the bottom part of the ramp with screws you have. Make sure the spacing of the hinges is even.

Affix the two slide bolts onto the sides of your ramp for additional balance and support by making use of the screws. Slice the carpet into two using a knife. Lay each piece of carpet on the

(2)  2 ½ foot parts of the ramp. Once you are satisfied with how it looks, you can put in permanently in place using a heavy-duty staple gun.

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Creative Headboard

Those are just thin strips of a wood beadboard attached horizontally to three thin pieces of wood running vertically up the back; you can see the three rows of nails.

This look can easily be replicated with pallet wood instead of beadboard. And you could even run the pallet wood vertically and the boards along the back horizontally. If you need to purchase them, 1×2s or 1×4s will work well for the boards along the back. But you know I’d encourage you to scrounge around for some pallet support boards or other reclaimed wood to use.

Hopefully, this project helps give your ideas for your very own headboard and ways to use old wood even if you don’t end up using pallet wood specifically. Once you start keeping an eye out for reclaimed wood of all kinds, you’ll be amazed at where you find it and what you end up using it for.

Materials

●  Pallet slats, cut to the preferred length of the headboard.

●  Support boards, cut to the preferred height of the headboard.

●  11⁄8” screws.

●  Foam sticker letters (optional).

●  Paint (optional).

●  Medium-grit sandpaper.

●  Dark wax (optional).

Tools

●  Tape measure.

●  Natural-fiber brush (optional—to apply the wax).

●  Cordless drill.

●  Paintbrush.

●  Palm sander (optional).

●  Miter or handsaw.

Steps

Use a handsaw or miter to cut the pallet slats and support boards to the desired measurements. Put the pallet pieces next to each other horizontally over the support boards that are laid vertically and attach screws using any drill you have.

To create the “sweet dreams” lettering, simply use foam sticker letters that can be purchased at an arts and crafts supply store for a few dollars (if desired). Use a variety of neutral-colored paints and paint right over the stickers to create a unified yet still uneven and imperfect paint finish. Using a dry-brush paint technique—where there is only a little bit of paint on the very tip of your brush, in a variety of colors—will give you this uneven finish.

Remove the foam letters and lightly sand the paint finish with medium-grit sandpaper. Apply a coat of dark wax to further age the look of the paint finish and blend in the very subtle wording detail if desired. To hang the headboard, be sure you screw it directly into wall studs to support the weight. Stud finders can be found at most home improvement stores.

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Cute and Stylish Kids Bed

Materials

●  Pallets.

●  Hammer.

●  Nails.

●  Stain.

●  Saw.

●  Screws.

●  Screwdriver.

● 

Sandpaper.

Steps

Start by cutting 1 pallet into thirds, and disassembling another. Leave 2 pallets complete, and sand all the wood down, you don’t want there to be any splinters. Assemble, filling in the gaps of the cut pallet with wood from the disassembled one.

Screw these in place on top of the two intact pallets, and apply a stain or paint to the entire piece. You can also place these on wheels if you like, but that is up to you.

Once all is secure, you are done!

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CHAPTER 11 TOY BOX OR CHEST & SHOE ORGANIZER

Toy Box or Chest

Materials

●  4 narrow pallet slats, cut 19” long.

●  4 narrow pallet slats, cut 12” long.

●  2 wide pallet slats, cut 19” long.

●  2 wide pallet slats, cut 12” long.

●  4 (3⁄4”) square dowels, cut 15” long.

●  1 sheet 3⁄4” plywood for the bottom of the crate, measuring 173⁄4” × 12”.

●  Medium-grit sandpaper.

●  Wood glue.

●  1” nails.

Tools

●  Hammer or nail gun.

●  Tape measure.

●  Palm sander (optional).

●  Miter or handsaw.

●  Wood shim or small level to use as a spacer.

Steps

Utilize a handsaw or a miter to make all of the slices. Utilize your sandpaper (medium-grit) and palm sander to sand each piece one by one before anything is joined. Running a dab of glue at every link as you go, utilize 1” nails and a mallet or nailer to connect the 2 base end pieces to the middle base bit of compressed wood. Next, connect the 2 base side pieces. Append the highest points of those supports to one another with 1 more nail for each corner. Append the 3⁄4” square dowel vertical corner pieces by running a dot of the wood stick in each corner and utilizing 2 nails in the two sides of each corner. Running a dab of glue at every connection, secure the following layer of side bed supports.

To attach the rows of pallet slats an equal distance apart, cut a shim piece out of excess wood to use as a spacer. This will ensure each slat is attached at exactly the same height in that. Or you could use a small level for each section. Attach the end slats to the corner pieces with 2–4 nails per end. Next, attach the side slats in the same manner first attach the slats on the end of your crate and then line up the slats on each side. Attach the top layer the same way, don’t worry if your vertical corner pieces don’t line up perfectly right away with the end of the slats you are connecting horizontally. You might need to “persuade” each piece a little to set them in the exact spot you want at each end of the crate.

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Shoe Organizer

What you have here is a very easy and useful storage solution that will surely help you or possibly change your wardrobe. These instructions make two particular, stackable shelves, and this task can be effortlessly altered depending on what number of shoes you have and, in the possibilities, you have more shoe variety.

Materials

With regards to length, the slat pallets I utilized were just 38” long, ye t I’ve considered braces to belong as 48”. You could likewise arrange two rack segments start to finish to make long lines of shoes. Be certain to aid any long segments with support pieces in the center for the prevention of sagging after some time. With regards to height, you could utilize a 2×6 or 2×8 board rather than the pallet bolster sheets for extra length in the event that you don’t have a similar choice of flip-flops I appear to have had. Likewise, with any venture, sanding it down is consistently a pleasant touch for a smoother finish, yet for this specific task, I didn’t think that its vital supplies.

●  24 (11⁄8”) screws.

●  2 support boards of equal width.

●  Shoes.

●  6 pallet slats of equal length and thickness.

Tools

●  Tape measure.

●  Miter or handsaw.

●  Cordless drill.

Steps

Lay 2 arrangements of 3-bed braces one next to the other and measure the width of each arrangement of 3. Cracked or broken supports will work okay for this project. Those flaws can be easily fixed confronting the rear of your storage room and under shoes. Use a handsaw or miter to cut 4 bits of the help bedsheets to the estimations from the past advance.

Line up the cut to help barricade’s edge side opposite with each finish of your arrangements of 3 supports, and utilize your drill to interface them with 11⁄8” screws. Screw into the gaps left when you remove the nails from the pallets when disassembling them from the bed—this will aid in the prevention of extra splitting. Or on the other hand, you can make new holes if you like. If your storage room is in any way similar to mine, now may be an ideal opportunity to get out anything on the floor and give it a fast and careful tidying before you put your new coordinator in there.

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PART IV

PROJECTS FOR INDOOR - CREATIVE PROJECTS FOR KITCHEN AND DINING ROOM

CHAPTER 12 KITCHEN CABINET

This simple, cabinet mounted on a wall a useful stockpiling unit for the washroom or kitchen. There are numerous sorts of fixings accessible: pick one that is appropriate for the wall on which you plan to affix it. Comprising of an internal shelf, back door, and a jointed box, it is a decent piece for the beginner woodworker to make to get to holds with the essential standards of cabinet structure and design.

Materials

●  Marking gauge.

●  Dividers.

●  Marking knife.

●  Square.

●  Pencil.

●  Tenon saw, or band saw.

●  Coping saw.

●  Bevel-edged chisel.

●  Ruler.

●  Rubber mallet.

●  Wood glue and brush.

●  Masking tape.

●  Sash cramps Bench plane.

●  Router and bearing guided rebate cutter.

●  Hammer.

●  8-panel pins.

●  2 brass butt-hinges and screws.

●  Bradawl Drill and bits.

●  Screwdriver.

●  Sandpaper.

●  Liming wax.

● 

Door catch T.

Steps

●  Mark out the comb joints on the ends and sides

Set the marking gauge at the measurement of 20mm (13⁄16in)–the thickness of the lumber of the wood pieces in addition to 2mm (1⁄16in). Mark this estimation around all sides of the two finishes of the four body pieces to demonstrate the shoulder of the joint. Set a couple of dividers to 30mm (1 3⁄16in) and scribe holes to separate the end grains of each piece into five equivalent portions.

Imprint the divisions with a marking blade and square, scoring over the width of the end grains of each piece. Stretch out the markings to the shoulder on the two sides of every one of the four pieces, utilizing the square and marking blade. Mark the excess to be eliminated with a pencil. Ensure to mark alternate sections as the top, base, and side pieces.

●  Cutting the joint

With the piece fixed to a vice, slice through the end grain using a small tenon saw, retaining the marks’ waste side. Release the excess wood using a coping saw. Cut somewhat away from the markings to take into consideration for finishing. Trim the bases and edges of the attachments using a bevel-edged chisel. If needed, cramp support allowing you to chisel correctly. Test the fittings of the brush joints and, if vital, chisel out the extra pieces to have an exact fit.

●  Mark and cut the housing

Mark the casing for the rack within the face of each side piece, 160mm (6 5⁄16in) from the shoulder at the top. From the shoulder at the bottom of the joint, make markings on how thick the lumber is–18mm (11⁄16in)–178mm (7in).

Square the markings from both of these positions 120mm (4 ¾in) over the face to detail out the length of the casing. Extend the markings at the back edge of the piece, and utilize the marking gauge to engrave the casing depth of 10mm (⅜in).Mark the casing stop 23mm (⅞in) from the front edge. Replicate the same steps to scribe the casing on the opposite side piece in an equivalent way. Eliminate the excess from each casing by hand or machine, as depicted for full casing joints. Finish the edges by hand using a bevel-edge chisel.

●  Make the shelf

Scribe the stop on the front edge of the two finishes of every rack piece, 10mm (⅜in) depth (to coordinate the casing depth) and 5mm (3⁄16in) along the face. Broaden the markings onto the end grain and the other face. Remove the excess by slicing to the waste side of the markings using a small tenon saw. Complete the process of cutting using a bevel-edged chisel. Check the fittings of the rack in the casing. Note that the rear of the rack ought not to be flush with the side piece, to leave space for the back piece.

●  Assemble the casing

Do a fit test of the body components and rack. Check the joints for its squareness and modify it if important. Disassemble and apply wood glue. Shield the wood from the glue with concealing tape (to be removed before its assembly). Assemble the pieces and afterward cramp together to guarantee that the casing dries solidly. When the glue is dry, take out the cramps then plane the joints flush.

●  Fit the cupboard back

Utilize a switch fitted with an orientation guided cutter set to a measurement of (3⁄16in) and width of ⅜ into cut an allowance along the inward edge of the frame. Square off the corners and tidy up the edges around the rack casing, utilizing a bevel-edged chisel. Test-fit the pantry back and change it if needed. Make markings 5mm (3⁄16in) from the edge of the back piece on all sides, and tap in two board pins on each side.

●  Fix the hinges to the carcass

Mark the location of the allowances for the two metal butt-hinges on the front edge of one side of the casing frame. The first is 50mm (2in) from the base and the second 50mm (2in) from the top. Put the hinge in the primary position and imprint its length. Do this again for the second hinge position. Set a marking measure to the thickness of the scribe and hinge between the length marks for each hinge on the casings’ outside face.

Remove the excess using a chisel to the markings for both hinge allowances and tidy up, being mindful so as not to surpass the markings. Put the hinge into the allowances, watching that it is flush with the wood. Imprint the screw gaps with a bradawl.Drill pilot gaps (and leeway gaps if utilizing customary screws). Pick the drill bit and measure how deep it is to fit the screws. Insert the screws using a screwdriver. Affix the hinge, drill the screw openings, and drill the screws in.

●  Fix the hinge to the door

Imprint the positions of the hinge within the face of the door utilizing the same estimations from on the casing. Cut the allowances using a chisel, then check the fit, screwing in the other flap of the hinges to fit the door.

●  Finishing the cabinet

Sand the edges and surfaces of all nook and cranny of your cabinet to come up with a totally smooth finish. Finish the outside of the storage cabinet. The door must be removed and be applied with liming wax or utilize a finish of your choice. Screw a ball get or other catch of your choice into placement in the top corner of the cabinet on the contrary side to the hinges of the door. Hold the entryway against the cabinet and mark the placement of the catch face inside. Fit the other piece of the catch in that position. Check the fit of the door and attach it again.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 13 KITCHEN STEP STOOL

You can fabricate this woodwork project during your free time or even the weekend, and it’s not hard to do. If there’s a need for you to construct this furniture, but need to sharpen your carpentry skills, this is an incredible task to take on. The instructions are direct, and you can finish the whole piece utilizing just the basic tools you have. Purchase your wood previously surfaced (level and square), and the fundamental force devices you will require are a table saw, jigsaw, or band, and the power tools you will require are a table saw, jigsaw or band saw, and a drill.

Materials

●  24- No. 8x2 inches (50mm) flathead wood screws

●  Wood glue

●  Stain polyurethane finish Cutting List

Steps

After buying or processing the entirety of the stock, fabricate all parts to width. To make the back, edge a wood glue the same number of wood pieces required to accomplish the last width. Square up one finish of each board and make markings on end utilizing a pencil.

The sides are made of three pieces of the board joined together with a glue to make the indents for the steps. Reference the squared finish of the side sheets against the fence. Cut the two longest side sheets and the back sheets to length. Move the saw fence and cut the center side sheets. Set the fence again and cut the most limited side pieces.

From my own experience, it is effortless to stick up the sides two sheets up at a time, utilizing a spacer slice to the height of the step. Glue the short sideboard set up to finish the side get together (the baseboard square, so ensure the grain runs vertically).

To add a personal and aesthetic touch on your stepstool, cut bends in the back and the two sides. When you’re done gluing the sheets together to make the back, lay the back on a bit of cardboard two or three inches from the base edge and draw a line around the border.

Decide how wide and tall you need your bend to be. Put a conciliatory board (pressed wood or medium thickness fiberboard [MDF]) under the cardboard and drive a nail at the bend’s tallest point in the inside (left to right) of the back. Drive nails on the baseline at the bend’s most stretched out point, one on each side. Tie a string onto the left base nail, bring it over the top nail and circle it twice around the base right nail.

Put a pencil inside the string and sketch the bend. Tighten or loosen the string to come up with the curve you like. The looser you have the string, the rounder and wider your curve will become. For the curves in the sides, do the same steps but offset the top nail instead of centering it.

When you have your ideal bends drawn on cardboard, cut them out with a utility blade and use them to draw the bends onto the back and sides of your project. Utilizing a jigsaw or band saw, cut out the bends on the two sides and the back. Then make use of sandpaper or file or an axle sander, to tidy up the saw marks.

Put the sides back edge to the back edge. Mark the screw hole locations for attaching the sides to the back because the back is ¾″thick, drill the holes ⅜″ from the back edge of each side using a countersink bit. Make holes on the countersink following the ¼″-deep hole that will accept a plug to hide the screw head.

Sand the back’s insides. At that point, clamp the sides and back together and drill in the screws. You can make use of glue to the screws if only you want to. Using part of a roundover switch bit, facilitate the front edges, and finishes of the treads. Rout the end-grain first, taking a light pass. Steering the long-grain after the process of routing the two edges tidies up any detach brought about by routing end-grain. Make marking on te the back edges of the treads, so you don’t unintentionally round over the back edges. A rasp, file sandpaper, or square plane can likewise be utilized to make the roundover on the tracks.

After the process of sanding the whole piece (sides, back, and steps), connect the tracks to the base get together utilizing screws and wood plugs. Cut a piece bit of wood a similar width as the back and put it between the different sides at the base advance so the sides will stay equal.

Start with the base treads. For a more aesthetic look, pick opposite lumber for the plugs. Since this piece will get a great deal of wear, I applied four layers of polyurethane, scouring with No.0000 steel brush or wool between each coat—including the last coat—for a decent semigloss look. Applying stain and polyurethane can change the wood’s shading and appearance, so utilize some piece of wood from your project as a test piece. Play around with various finishes and stains.

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CHAPTER 14 LARGE SERVING TRAY

& SET OF WOODEN SALT AND PEPPER

Large Serving tray

Materials and Steps

Straight cuts and simple, butt joinery make this project quick and easy. A simple curved shape on the end pieces is easy to cut. The handle cutouts make it look nice and are easy to make with two holes drilled through and a connecting cut.

Assemble the best boards for the bottom and edge glue them together, or just set them side by side for a more rustic look. Rip one pallet slat into two sideboards on a table saw. To work on the end pieces and get identical results, I tacked them together in a waste area before I cut the two decorative end pieces, then drilled and cut out handles. This process, known as gang cutting keeps things lined up and gives more consistent results.

Wrap the frame around the bottom and nail into the end grain of the boards with several nails per board. I used an 18ga brad-nailer, but you can predrill and use fine finish nails. If you are going to hang on the wall, drill a shallow hole centered in the bottom edge on one end. If you like things hanging crooked, drill it off-center — sand and finish to your own personal style.

I stained, wiped excess stain away, and let dry. Then I sanded lightly to bring out the rough sawn character of the wood before spraying with a clear finish.

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Set of Wooden Salt and Pepper

Materials

A (2) 2 ½ inches x 2 ½ inches x 12 inches pieces of beech

B (2) 7 ½ inches-long mechanisms -one for salt and for the pepper

First, make sure that the wood does not have cavities, and splits. Afterwhich, affix the wood on the lathe and promptly turn the larger part of the length to a measurement of 2 ¼ inches diameter. Maneuver guidelines rounding the cylinder enable the top piece of the mill to be near the tailstock end of the lathe. Next, turn the capstan or the top of the mill for shaping.

Fit the Tailstock drill hurl, set the l 1/8”- measurement Forstner bit in the throw, and run a gap into the finish of the cylinder Sink the gap into a depth of around 3”. Part of the 5 1/5”- long cylinder.

Wrap the Tailstock up with the short length of wood is all around bolstered. Turn off a nozzle that will be a tight push-fit in the l 1/8”- breadth gap that you have made a hole into what will be the top finish of the body. Presently, slide the body onto the spigot, refit the Tailstock drill hurl and drill distinctive size gaps into what will be the base of the mill body.

Drill the main opening at 1/2”- the distance across and 1/2” depth, followed up another hole at 1/8”- width and as deep as it will go. At the point when you are this far, the rest is simple. You essentially switch the body of the mill in the hurl—with the goal that the bottom is in the chuck—place the capstan on the mill and afterward wrap up the Tailstock and turn the mill to shape.

Having pretty much turned the capstan to shape, fit it in the toss, and carry it to a decent completion. Run a 3/8”- width opening through the workpiece. Fit the entire works back on the machine and sand and shine to a decent smooth completion.

Slide the mill instrument up through the body and fix it with the little bar and several screws. Now that you are finished screwing the capstan spigot to the ring washer, finish it off by slicing the rod and fitting it with the head screw.

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CHAPTER 15 CUPBOARD FOR CUPS AND STOCKS

Materials

Steps

●  Machining the wood

The cutting list shows the dimensions of the components you will need to machine. The wood was machined with all the parts left longer to allow for trimming later. When your machine plane wood, the ends of the boards often suffer a degree of snipe. It is better than to saw around 50mm (2”) off the ends of planed boards to get to the good stuff. Always machine up some extra pieces to use as test pieces for setting up things like miter cuts and routing.

●  Cut and glue the carcass

After setting up for the miter on my table saw and checking some test pieces, the sides, top, and base were sawn. I used a biscuit joint at the miter, but you could also use a domino or dowels. I find biscuit joints fast and accurate. Sand the insides of the boards and glue the top, base, and sides together. I used light cramps with woodblocks, and the miters closed up fine.

●  Cut and glue in the shelves

The shelves, which are 3/16” (5mm) less in width than the outer pieces, can be sawn to length and sanded. I marked the position of these, applied glue and pushed them in place, then applied the clamps. Dowels were used to secure the shelves in place. The dowel heads add a decorative touch. You can also buy dowels off the shelf from timber yards and hardware stores, or make your own with a dowel plate. The dowel positions are marked, holes drilled, and dowels glued in.

●  Door and back panel

The door and back frames are made at the same time as they are identical in construction. For the door panel, I had two short pieces of white cedar that were wide enough, but the grain did not quite match. It would have been better, of course, to have one long piece to cut the two- door panels from.

●  Jointing the door

The joint used for the door can be a mortise and tenon, a floating tenon, domino, or dowels. I used the router to make the mortises and made up loose tenons from white cedar. The door frame encloses a solid timber panel, 3/8” (10mm) thick.

The panel is housed in a groove. Before cutting the groove on a router table, I removed part of the waste by making a saw cut on the table saw. This makes the work of the router a little easier. Spend some time aligning the fence and router cutter perfectly. Theoretically, you can run the wood over the router cutter and then flip it and run the other face against the fence of the router table. However, I have tried this and found that every now and then, one piece of wood can be grabbed by the cutter and flung across the workshop. Hence, I prefer only making one pass over the router table.

●  Glue up the door and back

All the wood machining should now have been completed. The back is laid out and ready to be assembled. Sand the panels before assembly. If you wish, do a test assembly of the door and back without glue; once you are happy with everything, apply glue and clamp up. Leave overnight if possible.

●  Make the base

A biscuit joint connects the pieces. I spent time getting the top edges flush to keep the unit without twist and to avoid having to spend time planing the edges flush later. An offcut from the door panels was glued in place on top of the base.

●  Fitting the door

I used butt hinges, and these were carefully recessed into position. You can use a laminate trimmer or small router to cut out the recess for the hinge. I have started using a router hand plane for this sort of work and find this far superior for small jobs like this. The router plane is quiet, fast to set up, and without the racket and danger of an electric router. I decided to opt for a routed finger pull near the top of the door instead of a knob. Instead of a catch, I fitted rare earth magnets into some countersunk holes just above the finger pull.

●  Assembly and polishing

The tower is fixed to the base by screwing in four screws from underneath. A small panel separates the cabinet from the base I fixed the back panel to the tower with screws in countersunk holes. Wood plugs go in the holes to hide the screws. You could just glue on the back, but it is easier to polish the piece without the back on, better to polish everything first, fix the back then tap in the wood plugs and touch up the plugs with polish.

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PART V PROJECTS FOR

INDOOR -BATHROOM

CHAPTER 16 BATHROOM MAT

AND MULTIFUNCTIONAL BATH TRAY

The deep spaces in this mat give grip for footwear, and somewhere for mud to drop in, you can then lift it and sweep the dried mud away easily. Use 50 x 25mm prepared teak (Tectona Grandis) or iroko (Milicia excels) for their toughness in outdoor conditions. They are slightly waxy feeling woods, but be careful of the wood dust as it can be an irritant.

Bathroom Mat

Materials and Steps

Cut enough pieces to length; six to eight slats are needed to make the doormat wide enough, and the length needs to be between 520–600mm. Improve the look of the ends by chamfering them with a block plane at a roughly 45° angle. Sand the long sharp edges with a sanding block to avoid nasty splinters. At about 90mm in from each end, make a mark and use a trysquare to draw a line right across all of the pieces. Now mark the center of each face on the pencil line, so you can drill in the middle each time. Drill through each slat with a drill slightly larger than the rope size. Use a piece of sacrificial board underneath to protect your bench. Use natural fiber rope, as it knots easily without coming undone, and it looks more in keeping with the wood. Tape the end to keep it small enough to feed through the holes. Make a tight knot at the outside edge and knot between each slat, working at both ends each time. Finish off with a tight knot when you get to the other end. Now you can give your old doormat the boot!

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Multifunctional Bath Tray

Materials

●  Screwdriver.

●  Wood piece.

●  Pencil.

●  Metal handles.

●  Ruler.

●  Sanding block.

●  Tape measure.

●  Wood stain + cloth.

●  Woodworking clamps.

●  Drill bit.

●  Screws.

●  Quick square (optional).

●  Drill + spade bit.

● 

Jigsaw.

Steps

Begin your creating of a bath tray by measuring the width of your bathtub. Next, you must have a piece of wood that is cut marginally bigger than the width of your bathtub so it can hang over it. The size of the tray in this project is 32 inches. Aside from the wood material for the base of the tray, you also must have 2 (7-inch) wood pieces that will support the tray’s structure. Its measurement will depend on the width of the tray you are making.

Then, make a space for your wine glass Holder. Here, I measured about 6 inches from the side that is short and 2 inches from the long side. Clamp the tray in a hard place and make a hole with a drill. Draw lines that are straight from both sides of the opening and utilize a jigsaw to make an incision along the lines, making a good space for your glass wine. For rough edges, just sand it down. Gather the pieces of wood on a work surface then finish with a wood stain using a cloth or brush.

Dry it at least 8 to 12 hours. Choose what side of the wood tray you like to be the bottom part—mark and measure at least 4 inches from the edge on the two ends of your wooden tray. Put one of the wood pieces (7-inch) on the markings you made and securely hold while drilling a total of two holes. Then, ensure the wood piece is secured to the wood with screws. Do the same on the other side. Then lastly, add the handles by drilling holes and securing it with screws. Test its integrity before using it.

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CHAPTER 17 TOWEL RAILS AND

CREATIVE SHELF CABINET AND ORGANIZER

This is a functional addition to your bathroom, which will also add a nice touch to it. You may choose whatever type of wood you want for this project.

Towel Rails

Materials and Steps

Begin by sawing the dadoes to be used for your shelves. To make the design, use a band saw and make holes using a drill for the rack/s. Then, build the bathroom rack. This plan consists of two shelves, two sides, and the back for your shelves. If the wood is not squared, you must square before you cut the stock. Using a table saw equipped with a stop block crosscut the stock to length. Make use of a miter gauge to guide the wood. Refrain from using a miter gauge with the rip fence because it may lead to the binding of wood. Split the stock and proportionate from the rip fence going to the inner part of the blade enable for the cut to be in the proper measurements. Check and examine the plans for the precise placement of the dado cuts. To make the cuts, utilize a table saw equipped with a dado set. To have an accurate, you must use a miter gauge with a stop block and extension fence. Another thing you can use to make dado cuts is a router with a clamped guide board at the right distance. In all instances, kick off the router away from the wood and slow it down at the beginning to make precise cuts.

●  Cut the Curve

Mark and measure the wood for your desired design. Making use of jigsaw or a bands saw, cut two straight marks followed by making the same cut on the side of the curve. Repeat this on the other side.

To make holes for the towel rods, use a drill press or a drill. For the hole locations, use the marks and measurements as indicated on the plan. Lay the hole’s depth to be drilled. To make a depth gauge, you can use a bit of tape wrapped around the bit.

●  Assembling the Bathroom Rack

To make the pieces smooth before assembly, sand the pieces. Try the fittings before gluing them to check the proper fit. If everything is okay, put glue to the rod ends and all edges. To ensure it glues well, use clamps to make it tight. After drying, add nails for added strength.

Creative Shelf Cabinet & Organizer

Every bathroom needs a cabinet for all those ablution essentials–toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, shaving foam, deodorant, etc. Here is a simple design with a modern wipe-clean interior, but a traditional outside appearance. I’ve finished it in two ways, clear pine (Pinus sylvestris) or painted to show how it can be changed to suit the setting. The core carcass is standard melamine- faced chipboard. The cladding is decorative wainscoting that pushes together to create the old fashioned look, that can be ‘shabby chic’ with a little surface distressing if needed.

Materials and Steps

The first step is to cut a piece of 3mm thin ply, slightly oversize, and paint it with the first coat of waterbased satinwood brilliant white paint while that is drying start cutting the melamine- faced board to length. This is standard 15mm board used for shelves, etc. So long as the top face is undamaged from cutting, any breakout underneath won’t be seen. Mark and drill clearance holes in the outer face at each end of the two side panels. Note the breakout that will be hidden. Make a small pilot hole for each screw using a drill, so the chipboard won’t split apart during assembly. Use screws long enough to bite and hold in the chipboard; the heads need to be buried in the surface.

Now return to painting the back panel and rub it down with medium abrasive before applying a cross-wise coat of paint. A third coat running on the other axis will be needed to give a really good, bright white finish. The shelf will be seen at the ends, so use masking tape to reduce breakout and mark the cut line on the tape. Now give the melamine edges a light abrasive rub to smooth them and remove any unevenness.

Next, mark where the shelf will go inside the carcass. The idea is to have a large space at the bottom for mouthwash bottles, shaving foam, aerosols, etc. and small items like toothpaste and makeup pads go on the top shelf. Carefully place the shelf against the internal pencil marks and fix using small ring nails to hold it securely.

Cut the wainscot boards for the top and bottom to length, matching the overall width of the cupboard. Now, cut the outer boards narrower to match the melamine chipboard. This will remove both the tongue on one board and the groove on the other one. Plane the front edges smooth. Bond the top and bottom boards using a heavy grade of adhesive mastic. Make sure the front edges and the ends are flush with the carcass. Note that they must overhang at the back to hide the back panel.

Use plenty of clamps to hold all the pieces in place. The ends overlap the top and bottom boards. Be careful not to get any mastic on the outer faces of the wainscot pine. To be quite sure that the middle of the boards is pulled down, you could use a luggage strap with some pieces of cardboard to protect the edges from holding it all together until the mastic has set.

The previously painted back panel needs to be trimmed to size, so it fits tightly in the space created by the wainscot upstand. This will help to ensure the cabinet is rigid and square. A piece of A4 paper makes a good square to mark out with. A flat carpenters’ pencil will actually run against the paper edge – believe it or not... Fix the panels firmly using small ring nails that won’t pull out (handy for hanging as the panel won’t detach). Be careful to center the nails roughly in the middle of the chipboard carcass, so no breakout occurs inside the cabinet.

The door consists of wainscot glued to birch (Betula pendula) ply backing to hold it all together. The rustic look is helped by using small T-hinges, but there is no way the hinge will fix to the cabinet side, so they are simply cranked by hammering to shape in a vice. 18This is how the hinges will sit, they need short blackened screws to fix them in place and a black knob at the other side of the door and a magnetic catch inside to close the door.

Bare pine is rather out of fashion at the moment, but I think one version with just a varnish finish should look good, but there is always the ‘shabby chic’ alternative. Fix the cabinet to the wall with screws and plugs and put all your bath time essentials inside and ready for use!

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CONCLUSION

I want to congratulate you for finishing my woodworking Project for beginners. Woodworking is an incredible hobby to get into. The best part is that you really don’t need much to get started making simple things. The tips and topics we covered in this book have given you more than enough information to be able to make trays, tables, benches, chairs, and more. Now, all you need are the specifications of what you want to make, the woodcut to the proper length, and you’re ready to go!

There are lots of places to get started making your first set of projects for beginners. I’ve given you some projects in this book to get you started. Give yourself a confidence boost by getting started making your own things. Remember, you always have the freedom to tweak the materials and final look you desire depending on your taste.

The next step is to pick out a field you may want to try out. Contemplate the time you have to spend per venture, the number of funds you have to commit, and the workspace you have or can build.

This will help you hone in on a field or two to try out. Begin with the basics and gradually build your skill set with repetition. Don’t expect to have a lavish and perfect table the first time you make one. Instead, have fun and try new techniques or tools whenever you can. Or sharpen a particular set of skills and become a master! Either way, take the first step and dive into woodworking! You won’t regret learning this noble skill. The next step is to move up and try more complicated woodworking plans. You can continue to master the craft, and who knows; maybe you can turn it to business later on.

Customized pieces of wood items are something that many people love to have. Plan and visualize what you prefer to do for your next woodworking project. Do remember the tips and facts that you have learned here. Whether you are doing woodworking as a business or hobby, the more experience you have, the better your craftsmanship will be.

As you work in your woodshop, be prepared to make mistakes. Be prepared to mess up projects and have to start over. These experiences are frustrating, but they are lessons to be learned. Skill is only gained through experience, and if you stop when you mess up, then you never learn from the mistake. Remember, all it takes to be an expert is time, attention, and experience, and only you can give these to yourself. But I know in my heart that if you’ve gotten this far through the book, you’re going to bring some amazing projects to life. I invite you to share these projects with others or even in reviews for this book. Seeing the way that my words have inspired others is a gift that words can’t describe. Thank you for making it through to the end of this book. Stay safe, stay working, and have fun.

Woodworking Outdoor Projects

The ultimate guide for garden woodworkers: 24 easy-to-build projects for planters, benches,

porch swings, modern-style birdhouses, and more

––––––––

Jhon Mc Connell J.

INTRODUCTION

Woodworking can be a satisfying and fun hobby. It is one of the most fulfilling activities you could partake in. There’s just something about taking a plain sheet or block of wood and be able to create something beautiful and useful from it. There are endless possibilities on what we can make from wood, from small wooden toys, boxes, and ornaments to bigger functional items like cabinets, shelves, beds, chairs, and tables. We can just fill any space in our house with our woodworking projects. In this book, I am giving our woodworking projects for your outdoor spaces. Here you’ll find 10+ woodworking projects that range from patio furniture to garden needs like planter and trellis. Each project has a list of materials, step-by-step instructions, and an image or diagram showing what you’re making. They are pretty much easy to follow and can be used by any level of skills one has in woodworking. You can also do this as your first project or your learning stage in woodworking.

Figuring out how to make “woodwork” doesn’t occur in an instant. Researching about it and watching carpenters on TV or video will get your creativity going, yet it is the hands-on training that really sharpens your carpentry skills. It’s a given fact for all disciplines: A craftsman never figures out how to draw by watching another person draw.

It’s a learning process, and once you get to the point that you can make all of your own furniture, as well as enjoying the craft, you will ultimately save a lot with your finances as well. When you can make a kitchen table just as nice as the furniture store, this is a definite bonus.

Woodworking can also be as simple as you want it to be or even challenging if you’re up for it. In woodworking, you have the freedom to experiment with a variety of techniques, tools, finishes, and so on Young or old, there is something for everyone, regardless of skill level.

Woodworking can be a very exciting venture for you, but there is a list of things you must always keep in mind before handling a hammer and a nail.

Before you start your woodworking venture, be sure to have a proper and adequate place to work in. Of course, no one would want to have sawdust flying all over your living space. Also, some woodworking materials such as paint strippers, stains, and varnish have toxic fumes. It is ideal to have a separate shop, garage, or shed to work in, but outside space will be the most optimal.

Second, gather all the tools ready for the projects you will do. Keep in mind to have a tape measure and calculator handy all the time, especially when you purchase wood materials— Double-check specialized tools required in some projects and make sure to purchase them beforehand.

Third, it is a must to be familiar with the tools and equipment you will be using. Both advanced woodworkers and beginners can benefit from this. Do know the different functionalities and limits of each tool. Spend ample time to layout tools, compare them and learn them one by one, especially new tools you have purchased.

Fourth, work safely when handling tools, some items you will utilize common cause dangers and even fumes. Equip yourself with safety glasses and allow an ample amount of fresh air for ventilation whenever using products that are oil-based and strong-smelling. Again, always read the guidelines before use.

As a beginner, it’s always a good idea to projects that are simple and easy such as birdhouses and carts. You can even do this as an activity you can do with your child. In this way, you’ll be

able to practice cheaper on small crafts. Some would even use recycled woo and wood scraps when they want to practice first. In the end, this will save you lots of money that you can allow for bigger, more challenging projects.

Lastly, as your main protection, do wear the right proper clothing when doing your woodwork. Clothing choice must not be loose-fitting, as wearing such leads to greater chances for it to get caught up in spinning equipment. Long hair must also be tied in a bun to avoid having it become tangled with the drill, saws, and so on. Never wear dangling, loose jewelry while in the process of woodworking as it can get caught up too in a power tool.

Now let’s start! I hope you enjoy doing our different outdoor woodworking projects and

enjoy or use them by yourself!

PART I: MATERIALS, TOOLS, AND TECHNIQUES

CHAPTER 1 MATERIALS

Wood

Picking the ideal wood for the projects could make the difference between failure and success. We can’t work wood if we don’t have any. Don’t worry; it’s easy enough to get your hands on some. Going out and purchasing planks is the best and easiest way to get started as these are already cut into workable sizes, and they have already been treated (unless you are working with untreated woods). Some people will bring home used or scrap woods and begin their projects this way, as it is cheaper than purchasing new.

Not every type of wood is the same. There are softwoods and hardwoods, of course, but even within these categories, there is lots of room for variation.

Pine

While I mentioned above that there are hard pines, the vast majority of pine is softwood. Pine is a global species, found all over the world. It has a light color that borders on off-white. This color changes depending on the particular kind of pine being used, but it never ranges far from white or yellow.

Along with the color, pine is a great choice for woodworking generally. It might be a softwood, but that shouldn’t be equated with it being weak. Pine is actually very strong, and it is even shock resistant.

One of the reasons that pine is a good choice for beginners is the simple fact that it doesn’t cost as much as other types of woods do. Pine trees grow fast, so there is less time and maintenance required to plant a crop of pine through to harvesting. Less time to grow means

less money to grow, and that means less money you need to spend to get started. Pine’s lighter color might be a detriment to some, but its ability to change color easily during the finishing process is a major benefit. It would cost you more to select a wood that is naturally darker than pine is. It still costs money to purchase the supplies needed for the finishing process. Still, if you purchase them once, then they can be used on several projects, making the additional cost irrelevant for additional creations.

Pine isn’t the strongest of the woods, but it is quite strong. It has the benefit of being quite stiff, which in turn allows it to be much more resilient than other softwoods might be. Yet, surprisingly, it isn’t all that heavy. The lightweight can be a blessing if you make use of it. For example, if you consider building a wardrobe, then it is going to be quite big and bulky. If you use a heavy wood like oak, then you’ll find it to be a real pain to move. But a lighter wood like pine will be much easier. Plus, since pine is shock-resistant, it can withstand being dropped during a move without any worries of it breaking. However, it must be noted that this only applies to minor drops. If you toss it off the roof, then it’s still going to break apart when it hits the ground. Pine also doesn’t change its size due to temperature in the drastic way that some other woods do. It still expands and shrinks slightly because the overall change in size is so minor that you don’t need to worry about these changes warping the shape.

Redwood

Redwoods are known for growing over three-hundred feet tall and twelve feet thick. While these are representative of older trees that have been given a chance to grow over the decades, it points towards just how much one of these trees can produce. However, because they take such a long time to grow, they aren’t particularly cheap.

Redwood is a softwood, and it is quite light, like pine. The grain of a redwood board is much more evenly distributed compared to many other species. This is due to the way that the tubes within the softwood form. As the name suggests, redwood has a red appearance. People often seek out redwood because of its color, as it is easier to make the red of the wood pop through finishing. Pine is often selected because it can change its color in the finishing process, but it doesn’t have an easy time reddening the same way that redwood does. However, the color is only one of the reasons that redwood is used as often as it is.

Redwood has a natural tendency to resist decay and insects. It also doesn’t shrink much, similar to pine. While the lack of shrinking is nice, these other two features are amazing. Redwood is often selected in carpentry as a wood of choice for the outside of a house or shed. Because it can resist insects, it makes it harder for the tastier woods inside to get infected. Pests would need to eat through the resistant redwood, and this isn’t easy for them to do. Redwood is a great choice for carpenters because of this, but woodworkers should also consider this. If you are making something for outdoor placement, like a teeter-totter or a birdhouse, then redwood should be a strong contender for the wood you select.

Cherry

Cherry is a good choice of wood for pretty much any project that doesn’t require a tough wood. Baseball bats are out again. But cherry has a beautiful reddish color to the heartwood. Cherry is one of the best furniture choices because of its beautiful look and the fact that it is easy to work with. Unfortunately, cherry can be quite expensive, and it is rarely carried at most home improvement stores. If you’re going to be working with cherry, then chances are you’ll need to

purchase it directly from a lumberyard.

When choosing cherry to work with, you’ll want to check for a few different features. The easiest to check is the color. The heartwood of cherry has a reddish color, but the sapwood is white. When selecting boards, look at both sides of the board to ensure that it is entirely heartwood. You’ll also want to check for gum pockets and knots. Gum pockets present as dark spots or lines throughout the board. One or two of these isn’t a big problem, but you should aim to minimize the amount present as they lower the overall quality of the board. With high- quality cherry, knots aren’t very common, but they do still occur. The knots you’re likely to encounter will be quite small, but even small knots can quickly reduce the integrity of a board or a project if there are too many of them.

One problem that cherry does have is that it can burn easily. This is very important to realize before taking any tool to it. Say you’re drilling some holes into it in a tight cluster. The heat from the power drill could actually burn the board around the hole. You’ll notice it blacken up and the burn will stand out clearly against the color of the board. Sandpaper is used to remove burn marks, as well as any scratches that happen. Trust me, and they will happen, cherry’s tight grain makes it more likely to scratch. This can be detrimental if you’re looking to create a very clean and even looking product, but being prone to scratches is arguably better than being prone to breaking, as some woods are.

Cedar

Cedar is softwood, even more so than cherry, with a straight grain. One of the reasons that cedar is deeply loved in the woodworking community is the aromatic flavors it gives off when it is being cut or sanded. Cedar is a commonly used wood, although it should be noted that it comes in several varieties which each have their own unique benefits. We’ll look at these each in a moment, but one thing they have in common is that they’re a great pick for outdoor furniture. While water and moisture will cause wood to rot, it isn’t a uniform process. Instead, it changes depending on the wood in question. Cedar, like redwood, is a top pick for any of your outdoor projects.

Maple

Maple is found in both softwood and hardwood varieties, by a long shot. If you decide to work with hardwood maple, then you’re going to quickly find out that it is really hard to work with the stuff. Softwood maple is easier to work with, but it is still harder than pine. Yet despite the difficulty that maple poses, it is known for having a very thin and straight grain. This means that if you’re looking for a wood that can last, maple is hard to beat.

Maple has some issues when it comes to applying a finish and shrinking. Maple doesn’t seem to take well to finishing, and so you can end up with lots of spots that either don’t take to the finish or take too well and have a splotchy appearance. Shrinking occurs due to changes in temperature. If you need to purchase maple and have it brought into your climate, then you will need to let it acclimatize before you begin to work with it. Areas in which the temperature fluctuates wildly aren’t particularly suited to use maple in their projects.

Recommended Wood for Beginners

With these five kinds of wood, we have barely even scratched the surface. There are more than 100 different families of trees which we can select from, some of which have several kinds beneath them. For example, you could choose to work with oak, but then you would need to

figure out if you wanted to use white oak, English oak, or red oak. Three choices might not sound so bad, but there are ten types of white oak alone!

To cover each and every type of wood would take far more space than we have available here. But more than that, much of this information would be irrelevant to you at this stage in your woodworking journey. Nobody would ever recommend that a beginner sit down and learn about each of these woods. The better option is to start with one or two woods. Beginning with these lets, you get a sense of how the tools work and how to physically work the wood. It’ll also give you a sense of the problems and challenges that arise from working with wood, as well as some of the frustrations that can make you want to pull your hair out.

I recommend that you begin with pine. It is easy to use, and it has lots of appealing features that make it highly attractive. However, pine is most strongly connected to a rustic style. If you enjoy this style, then great, you have nothing to worry about. But if you aren’t into the rustic look, then you should try working with a softwood maple. This is a little bit harder than pine, and it will present its own unique challenges. Lots of people suggest poplar, but if you are looking at poplar or pine, then I would recommend pine. If you’re comparing poplar with maple, then I will argue for maple, as I believe that the softwood maple serves well to branch the gap between beginner woodworker and intermediate woodworker.

However, ultimately, which you select is going to be determined by the needs of the projects you choose to work on. Let the projects guide you towards whichever wood fits the aesthetic you desire. Remember to balance those aesthetic needs with the difficulty of the wood, as well as its pros and cons. But when starting out, remember to keep the costs low so that you have no reason to get upset over a broken board. There are going to be plenty of mistakes in the beginning, after all.

CHAPTER 2 TOOLS FOR WOODWORKING

The tools of the trade of woodworking are numerous. You’ll find anything from simple hand tools to large, boisterous power tools that could seriously injure you. It might be best to start out with hand tools only and move on to power tools when you’re more comfortable with woodworking. Besides, working with hand tools will allow you to learn the texture of the wood, and you’ll be better at using the power tools when the time comes.

For beginners, I’m going to talk about hand tools first.

Hand Tools

There are hundreds of woodworking specific hand tools available to novices, but we’re going

to start with the basics that you can find at any hardware store.

Hammers

Most of you know what a hammer is, but did you know there are different types of hammers? For woodworking, you need the traditional ballpoint hammer.

Screwdrivers

You’re going to need various sizes and types of screwdrivers, so it’s best to get a kit where there is a base handle with attachments for Philips, flatheads, and hex attachments just to be safe. Depending on your projects, you’re going to want very small screws such as eyeglass screws and larger ones for things like tables. So be sure you have the right screwdriver and attachment for the project.

Nails and Screws

It depends upon your project, but you may need nails, or you may need screws to make your joints more secure or attach pieces together. There are hundreds of different nails and screws, so you have to be sure you have the correct ones for the project you’re doing.

Chisels

Chisels come in all shapes and sizes. There are very tiny ones to create small grooves or flatten out a tiny area, and then there are ones that you’re going to need to use a hammer on the end of to get it to work. Again, be sure you have the right size for your project. Better yet, get a kit.

Saws

Keyhole saws, crosscut saws, coping saws, and backsaws are just a few of the different types of handheld, manual saws you can buy. They all have a different use, so be sure you’re using the correct one. Otherwise, you may end up hurting your project or yourself.

Speed Square

Nifty squares that not only tell you if something is square, but they have measurements so that you can be sure your parts are the proper lengths.

Clamps

Imperative to woodworking, you’re going to need clamps to keep your joints together when you glue them. Clamps come in all different sizes, and there are several different types: spring- loaded, bar, C-clamps, trigger clamps, and many more. Know which ones you’re going to need for your project and use them accordingly.

Hand Plane

There are numerous different kinds of planes available, and all of them are used in woodworking. Sometimes you can get away with not using a plane, but they’re really handy to have available when you have an uneven thickness in a piece of wood. If you’re working with a raw piece of wood, meaning it’s a log, you’re going to need a hand plane.

Tape Measure

Tape measures are great to have if you need to figure out the length of something, but be careful with them. If the little piece at the end, the metal piece, is wiggling too much, then your measurements might be a little off because it’s worn out. Sometimes it’s best to use a ruler instead of a tape measure as they’re more accurate.

Sand Paper

Unless you want your piece to look rough and have rough edges and snags, you’re going to need sandpaper. It’s best to have very coarse all the way down to the finest grade for woodworking in order to get a smooth, nice finish. Even if you have a belt sander, you’re still going to need handheld sandpaper to get into those small crevices.

Power Tools

While you can complete any project with hand tools, sometimes it’s nice to have a powerful

tool that can do the job in a fraction of the time it would take you to do it by hand. However, there are some things you should remember when using power tools. Never take off the safety guides and never wear loose clothing or jewelry. You don’t want to get caught up in the blades.

Drill

Having an electric drill is going to cut back on your time spent tapping all those holes and drilling them by hand. Besides, you can get attachments that will allow you to drill dowel holes for your joints.

Jigsaw

Jigsaws allow you to cut pretty much any angle or any type of edge you’d like, even circular. However, they’re difficult to be accurate with, so be aware that you must have precision when handling the wood and a jigsaw.

Circular Saw

These are for cutting straight edges. A circular saw is built into a table and sticks up out of the table, in most cases, although you can get handheld ones. It’s best to have a mounted table version so that you have more control and are less likely to injure yourself.

Belt Sander

If you need to sand off any rough edges, a belt sander is an excellent tool to have in your repertoire. However, you’ll still need sandpaper for all those little niches and grooves you’ll have to get into with some of the more difficult pieces.

Jointer Planer

Planners are used for when you want to put two pieces of wood together and have them fit flush, such as when you’re making a tabletop. While you don’t have to own a planer in order to get some of these techniques accomplished, it makes the job a lot easier, and the end result usually looks a lot better, too. There are many other tools out there that you can get ahold of for woodworking, but remember that it’s best to start with the basics and work your way up to the electrical equipment when you’re comfortable with the hand tools.

CHAPTER 3 TECHNIQUES

Those with woodworking skills will tell you that many individual techniques can be learned. Unfortunately, they’re too many to comprehensively list in this text. Rather than drown you with a quick, but not necessarily effective, list of each technique we will focus on just a few and offer advice on how to continue learning.

My first piece of advice when learning woodworking is that there is only so much that can be conveyed and understood with the written word. Visual learning is almost essential in this case. It is recommended that you seek out a class or two that offers hands-on experience with someone that is trained in the craft that can teach you the intricacies of each technique. If you are not able to easily find classes in your area, look up woodworkers, or even lumber suppliers in your area. See if anyone would be willing to make a little extra money by allowing you to witness them in action, and possibly work alongside them in apprenticeship style.

Finally, if you are coming up empty with an opportunity for hands-on work, turn to the internet. There are endless woodworking videos available for free viewing, and you will have the opportunity to witness various individual styles and techniques. Just make sure that the videos you are watching are from reputable sources and skilled woodworkers. The downside to this approach is that absolutely anyone can post a video on the internet, but that doesn’t mean that they have a firm understanding of the craft.

Joints are absolutely essential to some projects as they reinforce the strength and durability of certain builds. Mastering joints early is one of the best things you can do to advance your craft. Start by learning how to make a simple butt joint. This type of joint is made of two pieces of wood joined together at a corner or edge. While there are stronger joints that can be made,

this one is very simple, and mastering, it will open the doorway for creating more pieces and learning other joining techniques.

Learn how to use a story stick. While seeming almost primitive, especially today where electronic measuring and leveling devices are available, a story stick is an easy way to measure and prevent design mistakes in your pieces. Using a story stick is as simple as taking a stick and marking measurements on it within a certain plane of measurement, for example, the width of horizontal measurement, and simply using those markings to accurately measure against the piece as you build. Story sticks are economical to use and result in fewer errors, especially if more than one woodworker is working on a project. Using another numbered device can result in small reading errors, leading to larger project defects. A story stick is an exact marker of measurement. If you are mostly making smaller pieces, you may not find sticks to be all that useful, but smaller pieces are ideal for trying this out. Sites like woodcraft.com offer excellent descriptions and illustrations of story stick use.

Finally, take time to learn the techniques involved in using each piece of power equipment that you own. This will not only advance your craft but is absolutely necessary from a safety standpoint. Always follow manufactures instructions for use and care and know what to look for in the case of defects and broken equipment. Contact the manufacture of each piece directly and ask them if they have a thorough user’s manual available either in hard copy form or online. It usually doesn’t make for the most interesting reading, but the more you know, the more you can do, and the safer you will be.

Here are some tips and tricks that make woodworking efficient:

•  Try doing smaller projects first

It is a good option to start doing simple projects rather than start complicated ones, especially when you are a beginner. Not only will it lead to fewer expenses when you’re unable to achieve it, but it will also not give you outright discouragement and frustration when you fail at first.

Once you succeed with the smaller projects, build it up and go on to more complicated ones. Learning does take some time and its knowledge and practice that will lead to success.

•  Enjoy what you’re doing

It’s true when they say the end product will reflect if you did not enjoy and put your heart into

the process. Enjoy woodworking, and don’t let it get you stressed when mistakes are made.

•  Investing in High-Quality tools

Expensive doesn’t necessarily mean good quality. So, don’t go on and buy the most expensive one. What I mean here is, take time to research, study, and canvass different tools and equipment that are available in the hardware or online for you. Study each pros and cons and weigh where you will get the most benefit from. Also, get ones with a least a year of warranty.

•  Be well-rounded and flexible

Wood is unlike metal, paint, and clay. Unlike other materials, your wood pieces will always be unique. Trees and lumber will have knots, cups, soft spots, bends, and imperfect. Sometimes, those imperfections can even work to your advantage and can be a design highlight as well. So, you must be knowledgeable of the differences between your wood and do go out and experience various grades of wood. Learning how to choose the top-quality lumber will prevent you from facing several problems in the future, as you are doing your projects. If possible, go look for a supplier that will ensure the best quality lumber all the time.

•  Measure everything 2x

To avoid making mistakes and wasting materials, and it is best to measure your pieces twice, then just cut it once. Do not rush when fabricating your lumber pieces and ensure you have the proper number of woods at the correct length and width. Not being able to do this will cost you time and another journey to the supply store to purchase more boards, Thus, taking your time even in the starting stages of your project.

•  Clean days

Make sure to allow at least one day per week or per month to do some deep cleaning on your workshop or working place. It may surprise how fast saw can accumulate and take over your shop. Take time to vacuum or sweep up the place from the countertops to the tolls and floorings. Be organized when it comes to your tools and place them back in their allotted storage areas and better to label them too. Having a well-organized, clean working area will give you much needed kick to work efficiently with less stress.

As with every activity that involves handling sharp tools and heavy materials, safety comes first. For those only starting out in woodworking, this cannot be stressed heavily enough. Those who lack experience cannot simply settle on the thought that “it won’t happen to me.” New woodworkers should learn about these safety guidelines, so they will have a safer and more enjoyable experience.

•  Wear appropriate clothing and safety equipment

Wearing safety glasses and latex gloves can save you from getting wood chips in your eyes and a nasty splinter. The gloves are also necessary when you work with wood treating chemicals such as finishes. If you are working with noisy tools, it is advisable to wear hearing protection. Do not wear loose-fitting clothes, and remove any dangling articles of clothing as they might get caught in saw blades.

•  Stay sober

Just as you cannot drive under the influence, you cannot handle sharp instruments under the influence as well. Note that you are still a beginner in woodworking, so stay sober when working on a project to prevent any untoward accidents.

•  Unplug every tool after use

This way, you cannot accidentally set off a power tool that you do not need when you least expect it. A good way to enforce this rule is to use only one extension cord for all of your 110- volt power tools. That way, you would have to unplug your tool from the extension cord before you can use another one.

•  Always keep your tools sharp

Dull tools are inefficient. You need to exert more effort to use them. They also produce very rough cuts. Sharpening your tools and cleaning them regularly can help produce cleaner cuts, and are less likely to bind into the material or kick back at you, which is a common cause of injury. Additionally, check for any metal objects that may obstruct the path of your cutting tool, as this can cause damage to it.

•  Never put your body near a blade that is still spinning

This is an important rule to observe, especially when you are changing bits or blades on a power tool. You do not want your power saw’s blades spinning at 5800 rpm as you are trying to jam your hand in the assembly to change its blade. Rule #3 is very important in observing this rule. Unplug the power tool first before trying to replace any part of it.

Always wait for the blade to stop before you try to put any part of your body near it. If you absolutely must do something that involves putting your hand near the blade, say, pushing waste and cut-offs away from the blade, use a piece of scrap or a stick to do so.

•  Consider the tool you are using as the most dangerous tool

There is a possibility of injury from any tool in your shed, and injuries typically occur not because of tools carelessly strewn around but during usage. For this reason, handle very tools with care, even if they are merely hand tools. Always return them to a secure area, or their corresponding case, when done using them.

PART II: OUTDOOR LIVING PROJECTS

CHAPTER 4 POTTING BENCH OR POTTING TABLE

Working the soil is part of the fun of gardening, but crouching down all day can be exhausting.

Material List

•  2= 1 x 4” x 8 ft. pines.

•  1= 1 X 2” x 8 ft. pine.

•  4= 1/2 x 4” x 8 ft. pine.

•  1= 1 3/4 x 5 1/2” x 6 ft. pine.

•  4= ¾ x 8 ft. deck boards.

•  Exterior- rated screws (l 1/4’, 2”).

Steps

Cutting the parts of the frame

Cut the total of the shelf and frame parts to the needed dimension. Mark a 3 ½ ‘ range on the front base corner of every rack support. Cut along the radius lines using a bandsaw or jigsaw. Sand the profiles smooth. Apply a strong shade outside deck and siding stain to all sides of the casing and rack parts. Painting on a different color on these parts isn’t obligatory, yet it’s a chance to modify your workbench, and the stain will expand the life of the parts.

Assembly of the frame

Connect two back rails and one base rail to the back strut, long leg, and back right mid-length leg with 2” deck screws. Inspect all the pieces across at 90-degree points. Connect the front rail and one base rail to one side front mid-length leg, short leg, and front strut. Attach the front and back assembly by appending them to the cross backings.

Attaching the worktop planks

Fabricate the deck sheets that will be utilized to make the work surfaces to length. We used composite deck boards because they require little maintenance and are easy to clean. Place the front deck board for the lower work surface against the backside of the front left leg and front strut. Mark the point where the front leg and strut intersect the deck board. Using these marks, draw the 3 3/4” deep notch outlines and cut out the notches with a jigsaw. Lay the bottom and top deck boards on the cross supports, leaving a 1/4” space between the boards. Drill two pilot holes that are centered over the cross supports in each deck board. Attach the deck boards with 2” deck screws. If you are using composite deck boards, use specially designed decking screws.

Attach the shelf & rack

Connect the shelf hook rail, shelf supports, and the shelf back to the back strut and long leg using deck screws (2 ½ inch). Affix the rack support to the rack with deck screws (2 inches). Affix the hooks to the rack hook rail.

Diagram

CHAPTER 5 THREE BENCH

Large woods with big dimensions may recommend decks, yet here they are consolidated to make a contemporary, eastern-style bench for your garden. Showcasing, interlocking joinery (in the best Asian artistry) and little utilization of metal clasp, this bench will remind you of the post- and-pillar construction highlighted in numerous old Japanese carpentries. The precast solid docks, intended to hold a deck undercarriage, are spruced up with stain to work as legs of the bench.

The seat is fabricated from usual joist wood and deck posts (4 x 4s and 2 x l0s). You just need a couple of power tools to assemble this garden bench, a jigsaw, circular saw, and drill. A few number tools can make your work fast: a 12” miter saw, due to its ability to cut 4 x 4s in one passing and a router to adjust over the cut edges. The stable and strong mix of intersection half joints and parts makes an exceptionally sturdy bench, but on the other hand, this bench is pretty

heavy too. Luckily, this kind of joinery removed the requirement for some clasp, making it simple to dismantle the seat into pieces so you can move it around your backyard wherever you prefer it to place, then reassemble it rapidly and without any problem.

Materials

•  2= 2 x 8” x 8 ft. cedar.

•  1= 2 X 6” x 8 ft. cedar.

•  1= 2 x 10” x 8 ft. cedar.

•  4= 4 x 4” x 8 ft. cedar.

•  4= Precast concrete deck piers.

•  2 Y/ exterior-rated screws.

•  Exterior wood stain.

•  Concrete stain.

Steps

Making the cross supports

The cross backings are the indented end pieces that help the beams of the bench. Slice them to length from 2 x 10 stock. Likewise, slice the cross-support braces to the required measurement from 2 x 6 stock (these sandwich the cross backings, to keep the cross backings from shaking). Blueprint the notches that will keep the front and down onto the cross backings. Drill 2”—dia. Starter gaps for the jigsaw edge, situated inside one corner of each scoring area. Slice out the indents with a jigsaw. Mark 2” range lines outwardly corners of the cross backings, and cut along the span lines with a jigsaw. Sand the corner span cuts smooth and round over the outside edges of the cross backings with a switch and A”—sweep steered round over piece.

Making the back and front seat

Fabricate the front and back pieces to length and width from 2 x 8 stocks. These parts should be cut with different profiles, including round overs on the top, scallops on the base, and scores to mate with the indents in the cross backings. To begin with, mark the layouts Cut the indents in the cross backings. Drill a starter opening for your jigsaw cutting edge in one corner of each score. Tidy up the edges of the indent with an etch, if important. Next, cut out the indents with a jigsaw. Mark a concave, 6”—span line on each base corner of each front and back part to make cutting lines for brightening scallops with refined profiles.

Sketch around over convex line—at each top corner measuring 2” in diameter. The cuts must be made smooth by sanding them and rounding them over the outside ends of the back pieces and set fronts using a switch and 2”—range round over piece. The back and front parts likewise have shallow circular segments cut into the bottoms. To design these curves, mark an inside point (start to finish) 4” down from the highest point of every workpiece and afterward drive a screw most of the way into each middle point. Sketch the end purposes of the curve and afterward twist a 40” long flexible wood or metal over the screw to shape the circular segment profile. Follow the circular segment profile next, cut along the span and curve profile lines, and afterward sand the bends smooth. Then ease the edges with your round over bit and router.

Making the beams of the bench

The gap between the back and seat front is loaded up with seat bars cut from 4 x 4 stock. This aids in keeping the weight (and cost) of the project low, in comparison to utilizing strong 2

x 8s right over. Slice the seat shafts to length and width. Clasp the seat bars together and mark the indent edge lines over the highest points of every one of the four shafts. The circular saw must be set to a depth of 2 ¼” and make a few crosscuts between the indent format lines to eliminate extra wood. Smooth the saw kerf edges staying in the score bottoms with a wooden hammer and a chisel (don’t utilize a mallet).

Finishing and staining the bench parts

Apply exterior-rated wood stain to all of the wood parts. Redwood and cedar tones are traditional colors, but for a look that’s more appropriate to the design, try using a dark stain color. A penetrating, semitransparent wood stain is easy to apply and gives the wood a durable finish. Cut notches into the seat beams. Eliminate excess material from the notch area by producing multiple kerf cuts with a circular saw set to 2” cutting depth. The concrete piers can also be stained with concrete stain to blend in better with the wood bench parts. Apply a concrete stain to all surfaces of each of the concrete base piers.

Assembling the bench

Position the top edge of each cross-support brace between the cross-bolster scores and 2 1/4” beneath the top edge of the cross help. Connect the cross-bolster supports screws. These are the only mechanical connections you need to make. Place the four concrete piers in the location where the bench will be set up. Position the piers in pairs that are approximately 3 ft. Apart. Place one support brace across each side pair of concrete piers. Place the seat front and back on the cross supports. Shift the concrete piers and cross supports until the notches align. Place the seat beams between the front and back pieces. Adjust the parts so that all notches sit fully on the adjoining parts.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 6 PORCH SWING AND ADIRONDACK CHAIR

The Porch Swing

After the long hectic day, you want to release your stress and tension. One of the easiest things that you can do in this regard is to make an indoor pallet swing chair for your home by yourself. This is really a great woodworking project for those who love swing.

But before you start this project, make sure that the roof of your home is strong enough to support this swing chair and your weight as well. If the roof is not that strong, then don’t choose it for indoors rather than outdoors.

To make this indoor swing chair, you need to gather and secure some pallets. Paint them in

white and place a cozy white mattress over it. But before placing the mattress, you need to do some other things. Such as use some rope or metal chair to fasten this swing chair with the roof (or with a tree in case of outdoors).

Materials

Vertical boards of pallet wood or your choice of wood.

Basecoat and topcoat. Screws.

Eyebolts. Carabiners.

Nails and hammer. 150-grit sandpaper. Glue and nail gun.

Steps

Take wood pallets and cut them into vertical pieces to make a photo frame. Sand the wood with 150-grit sandpaper after cutting the wood. You can select the shape and design of your photo frame with a saw, fabricate all the needed parts for the swing. I include some gingerbread trim with the jigsaw on the top board of the backrest.

Apply a base coat and afterward the topcoat. It is consistently simpler to paint the pieces before amassing them. It will be good to choose white or brown paint to give a unique touch to your photo frame.

Making use of screws, construct the framing for the seats. Recall that the braces must have a shade since that is the place the hanging instrument will be connected to. Screw on another crosspiece in the seat to add steadiness and sturdiness to the braces. At that point, affix the braces individually with screws. The backrest is worked similarly as the seat. However, the upstanding pieces will extend descending underneath the seat to let you secure the seat and back pieces along with screws.

Connect the upstanding pieces on the facade of the framing of the seat with screws. That is the place the armrests will be joined. Connect the backrest to the framing of the seat. Affix the armrests to the front upstanding piece and the backrest.

Then, include the swing connectors: Drill gaps for eye bolts on the front and backbit of every one bit of the framing’s short sides. Connect the eye-bolts. Measure and slice the chains to the ideal length using an angle grinder. Affix the chain in the eye bolts with carabiners.

Image/Diagram

Adirondack Chair

This project could be quite useful for anyone who wants to invite friends over for a grill session, or just to sit around a nice fire, but doesn’t have anywhere for people to sit. You don’t want to take your indoor chairs outside and risk getting them dirty or wet.

These “Adirondack” style chairs are perfect for building with pallet wood, and they are not

as difficult as you might think. People tend to assume that any useful furniture has to be

incredibly difficult and expensive to make. That’s certainly not the case.

Keep in mind that these chairs are going to be seeing a lot of weather. They are, after all, most likely going to be left outside all of the time. Use weather-resistant screws, glue, paint, and anything else you think might be ruined by the rain, wind, snow, etc.

Materials

Pallets (one per chair should be enough, depending on how big yours are).

Screws (for outdoor use). Wood glue (waterproof). Jigsaw.

Compound miter saw. Power drill.

Driver. Table saw. Belt sander. Palm sander.

Safety goggles.

If you’re missing some of these items, such as the more expensive power tools, you can often make do with the hand-powered equivalents. Just be prepared to put in some good, old’ fashioned elbow grease.

Steps

You’ll need to cut some plank pieces from your pallet. Since all pallets might be a different size and shape, you’ll need to use your own judgment here. Take a look at the above picture to see how to put the frame together.

When you’re happy that the pieces are the right size for you, and whoever will be sitting on your chairs, glue, and then screw this basic frame together. You can use clamps to hold it all together until the glue dries, but the screws should work fine here.

To make your seat back, take two pieces of wood to make the cross-section, and then line up plank pieces to make a comfy flat part for your back. See how the top of the seatback is rounded? You can cut this to your own desire to get this effect.

The seat part is made by laying plank pieces over the seat part of the frame, which you make earlier. Now you can attach your seat back to the frame. Sand everything down and paint or finish the wood as you desire.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 7 ADIRONDACK TABLE AND PICNIC TABLE

Adirondack Table

Great on a deck or patio. This table is sized to sit alongside an Adirondack chair—ideal furniture to place your glass of juice—and can be made quickly with common homeowner tools. Western cedar is one of the few roughs sawn kinds of wood always available from lumberyards. Long pole-barn nails are used to secure the parts.

Materials

Two 8-ft. cedar 5/4×6 decking.

One 6-ft. cedar 1×8.

15 ⁄8-in. and 11 ⁄4-in. stainless-steel or decking screws.

Polyurethane construction adhesive with a caulk gun. Wood plugs (plus plugs that you cut yourself).

Exterior wood glue.

Stain and sealer, or primer and paint. Chopsaw.

Table saw or circular saw. Jigsaw.

Compass. Utility knife.

Trammel (long compass) made of cardboard, screw, and pencil. Belt sander.

Router with a round-over bit. Hand sanding block.

Large square.

Drill with a screwdriver, pilot/counterbore, and plug-cutting bits. Chisel.

Steps

Rip the 1×8 in half to make two pieces 35⁄8 in. Wide. From these pieces, cut five pieces 24 in. Long for the top slats. Cut 4 ft. from one of the decking pieces. Rip this 4-ft.-long a piece in half to make pieces about 25⁄8 in. wide. Cut one of the 16 in. Long for the upper stretcher.

From the remaining 25⁄8-in.-wide pieces cut two horizontal supports 18 in. Long. Use a compass to mark the ends of the horizontal supports for curve cuts, cut with a jigsaw, then rout the edges and hand sand.

From the full-width board cut two pieces 18 in. long for the feet. On one of the boards makes small marks 5 in. From each side. Position a 5-gal. Bucket against the two marks and draw a curved cut line. Cut the line with a jigsaw. Use two plates (or other round objects of your choice) to draw an S-curve on a top corner of the foot. Before cutting, experiment on scrap pieces to achieve a look you like. Cut the S-curve with a jigsaw.

Use the cutout as a template to mark the other side of the foot and cut with a jigsaw. Use a belt sander to smooth out the curves, then use the first foot as a template for marking the second foot. Cut it as well.

Equip a router with a round-over bit and adjust and test on scrap pieces until it rounds edges to look like factory-rounded decking edges—rout all the cut lines.

From the remaining full-width board cut two legs 23 in. Long. On each, place horizontal support at one end and afoot at the other end. Use small boards to align these pieces with the leg’s ends. Measure to be sure that the foot is centered on the leg, then scribe a line that follows the foot’s lower curve. Also, scribe a line at the top of the foot, as well as a line that follows the bottom of the horizontal support.

On each leg, cut the curved bottom line with a jigsaw—Belt sand, rout, and hand sand the curved cuts.

Set your circular saw’s blade depth to 1⁄2 in., the depth of the dado you will cut in the top and bottom of the leg. Slit the outside pencil marks you made in step 7 with a utility knife to prevent tear-out, then cut a series of closely spaced kerfs.

Tap the wood slivers with a hammer, then use a chisel to scrape away all the protrusions. Finish with the chisel’s bevel side down, as shown. Do this completely; even one little bump can make the joint sloppy looking. Place the dado-cut leg on top of the foot and the horizontal support and check that the joint looks tight; if not, clean out the dado more thoroughly. Apply polyurethane adhesive to each joint, then drill pilot holes and drive four widely spaced 11⁄4-in— Screws into each joint. Check for square as you work. Repeat for the other leg.

The lower stretcher rests on the top of the feet; the upper stretcher butts up against the bottom of the horizontal supports. From the outside of each leg, measure and mark the locations for the pilot holes, centered on the leg—three for the bottom stretcher and two for the upper stretcher. Drill the pilot holes using a pilot/ counterbore bit.

Position the bottom stretcher on top of the feet and centered on the legs and drive screws to attach it to both legs. Then attach the upper stretcher also centered on the legs as shown.

Lay the top slats on the horizontal supports and use nails or thin strips of wood to keep them evenly spaced. Drill pilot/counterbore holes, then drive screws to attach.

Make a trammel out of a strip of cardboard, a screw, and a pencil, as shown. Partially drive the screw through the cardboard and into the center of the center slat, near its end, and draw a curved line on the other end. Repeat on the other side.

Cut the curved lines with a jigsaw. Then use a belt sander to shape a more perfect curve; go over the edge with a router with a round-over bit.

Use a drill with a plug-cutting bit to make wood plugs, insert them with drops of wood glue, and allow drying. Then scrape nearly smooth with a sharp chisel. Hand sand the surface of the table, so the plugs are smooth and on the same plane as the slats. Apply stain and sealer or primer and paint.

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Image/Diagram

Decorative picnic table

Materials

Pallets.

Hammer. Nails.

Stain. Saw. Pencil.

Screwdriver. Screws.

Measuring tape.

Steps

START BY COMPLETELY disassembling the pallets, and set all the wood aside in the piles it belongs in. Next, take your pencil and measuring tape, and measure equal lengths for the table of the

legs. I cut mine to be 4 feet long, angled at both ends to stand flat on the ground while supporting the table at the top. Cut these and set them aside.

Next, you will need to set aside 18 of the boards. These will be cut to be a total of 6 feet and laid end to end on the frame. You now have all the wood you need for the legs and the top of the table, so all you need is the 2 boards to support either side.

Start by laying out 2 legs side by side, then screwing 2 boards to equal 9 feet across these boards. These are the support arms for the seat, so place them across the legs, as you see in the photo. Repeat on the other side.

Stand the legs on end now, and with the assistance of a friend or propping them against a wall, screw the board on lengthwise, to each end of the legs. You are now making the bench and top of the table. I suggest you add more boards in the center beneath the table for added support after you have screwed the mainframe in place. Once this is entirely assembled, sand down all of the rough edges. Apply a stain first, then paint the color of your choice. That’s it! Your new picnic table is ready for a party!

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 8 BACKYARD PRIVACY SCREEN

This screen you can put in your patio or backyard can give much-needed privacy you need. Aside from that, it can also make temporary division on areas that are full of clutter. The plan uses clear steps for building and assembly, including the application of a couple of basic procedures. A mortiser is practically fundamental for cutting the various mortises for the screen joints to accomplish the consistent accurate required for a uniform appearance.

Materials

Pencil Combination square. Mortise gauge.

Tenon saw, or band saw.

Bevel-edged chisel. Tape measure.

Marking knife.

Mortiser or mortise chisel. Sandpaper.

Wood glue and brush. Sash cramps.

G-cramps.

4 “Soss hinges” and screws. Router Straight router cutter. Drill with bits.

Cutting List

Steps

Make the Bridle Joints in the Rails

Make markings with a pencil the shoulder of the T-harness joint mortise on the edge of a rail by scribing the width of the upstanding, flush placed to the end grain. Square the shoulder mark over every one of the four sides of the rail, making of a combination square and pencil

Utilize a mortise gauge to mark r the width of the mortise with dimensions of 10mm (⅜in)– over the end grain and onto the two edges to the shoulder marks. Scribe the waste. Fabricate the mortise with either a band saw or tenon saw. When you are cutting by hand, utilize a combination square to set the wood at a 45-degree edge in the vice.

Diagonally fabricate down each edge of the mortise one way. At that point, change the spot of the lumber in a vice to cut corner to corner the other way. Then, slice vertically to the shoulder down each edge and make a vertical allowance cut in the middle point of the waste. Remove the excess waste using a bevel-edged chisel. Do this procedure again on the opposite finish of the rail and on the two closures of the staying eight rails.

Mark the Tenon positions in the Uprights

Make markings on the spot of the three joins, each to a width of 1 ⅜ in, on one of the six

uprights. Imprint the main tenon 1 3⁄16in from the upper grain end.

Imprint the beginning of the second and third joins 21 ⅝in and 58 ⅞in individually from the

end grain—Square all the imprints around all sides. Utilize the mortise measure as recently set–

⅜in–to mark how thick the joins are between the imprints on the two edges. Imprint the waste.

Reinstate the shoulder marks using a marking blade. At that point, cut a V-groove using a chisel to make a perfect edge. Cut the joins by hand making use of band or tenon saw, make vertical allowance slices into the waste.

Cut out the excess using a chisel and make the area clean. Do the steps again for the rest of the uprights. Test the fittings of the joins inside their coordinating mortises in the rails and change if vital.

Make the Slat Mortises on the Uprights

Imprint the places of the support mortises within positioned upward edges. Make a line across one upstanding 9⁄16in from the upper join to demonstrate the highest point of the main mortise. The mortise length is 1 ¾in. Imprint a further eight mortises at 15mm 9⁄16in stretches until the center join is reached. From the center join, make more marking of about 12 mortises of a similar length at 9⁄16in spans.

Mark the width of the principal mortise (focused within the edge and set the mortise measure to 6mm (¼in) and) by marking between the two length marks. Set the mortiser fence to the checked mortise position and the profundity to 10mm (⅜in). Cut all the mortises and sand (inset).

Check the fittings of all components in each board: first fit the rails into one of the uprights, at that point, embed the braces into the mortises, and afterward connect the other upstanding. When the fitting meets your requirements, glue the harness joints on each of the three boards and clamp with G-cramps and sash cramps. Test for squareness.

Fit the Hinges

Make marking onset area of two Soss pivots ⅜in from each end grain of the board uprights, at that point square the imprint over the outside edge. The pivots are situated on the two uprights of the focal board and the upstanding of every one of the sideboards.

Mark and measure the length of the pivots square over the edges of every one of the uprights, utilize a router with a fittingly estimated shaper to slice a casing to coordinate the pivot measurements in each checked position. Cramp a square close by the upstanding to help the switch. Check the fittings of the pivots in the casings, and make any essential changes using a chisel.

With the pivots put in each casing on the focal board, drill pilot openings into every one of the pivot screw positions, at that point screw set up. Make certain to situate the pivots in contradicting bearings on each side of the board to empower the screen to overlay in a crisscross.

Set the primary sideboard to be attached with its pivot lodgings over the relies on the focal board, at that point opening in the pivot. Screw-in position as in the past. Do the same for the staying sideboard.

Finishing

The screen can be left incomplete, yet if you would like to apply a stain, make certain to do it before building it. It would be extremely difficult to apply wax or finishing oil into all the corners once glued together. A few layers of clear acrylic varnish would be a decent decision to finish here as it would not stain the wood along these lines abstaining from adding an undesirable look to your project.

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PART III: GARDEN PROJECTS

CHAPTER 9

RAISED BED AND ROMANTIC ARCH/ARBOR WITH BENCH

Raised Bed Planter

Are you yearning for something more in your garden than grass and maybe a few edge plants? How about being able to grow something that you can actually put to good use—like some fresh food?

This planter is a great idea for people who want to get into the hobby of gardening, especially people with children. Since you won’t need much pallet wood, or any fancy tools and expertise, this is an especially fun project to do over the summer with kids.

By filling your planter with soil and standing it over in an out-of-the-way place in the garden, you can reap the rewards of fresh produce. Okay, so you’re not going to become self-sufficient with just one, or even a few, of these planters. The real reward comes from growing something

yourself and knowing where it came from. They also look great and are very stylish right now.

Materials

One pallet per planter (with six or nine pallet planks across the top).

Hammer. Nails.

Hand saw (although a power saw will make things a lot easier). Soil, fertilizer, bedding material, etc. (this is up to you).

Seeds, saplings, etc. (this one’s also up to you).

Steps

Cut your pallet into three equal pieces, going across the joining pieces of wood. Check out the below picture if you’re not sure how to do this. You should have two end pieces, and one from the middle. Split this middle piece if half, taking the top and bottom apart. Cut the end pieces so that they appear as in the image as well.

Attach your sides using your hammer and nails, and use those extra pieces you cut off to create a bottom. Remember, this doesn’t have to be watertight or anything. In fact, drainage for the soil is essential. You should have some blocks of wood leftover. Use these to create little feet for the whole structure. You should now have a nice planter. Fill it up with some garden bedding material at the bottom, for filler and drainage. You can put your soil up to near the top, along

with whatever you want to plant.

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Romantic Arch/Arbor

THIS ARBOR CAN SPAN a path, a chair, or a collection of potted plants, or it can just sit in the garden beckoning people toward the view. It is definitely a decorative rather than a structural element: It won’t be strong enough for kids to climb on, but you can let vines clamber all over it if you like, and it will last for a good many years if unmolested.

The only poles that reach across a horizontal span of any length are the beams, so we’ve made them of thick 3-in. bamboo; smaller poles might sag over time. All the other pieces are sized for appearance. A variety of sizes are used symmetrically. If you like, use thicker poles for a more substantial look.

Materials

Bamboo poles, 8 ft. long, of various thickness: one at 3 in., four at 2 in., two at

11⁄2 in., two at 1 in., two at 3⁄4 in., and two at 1⁄2 in.

Stainless-steel screws. Bonsai wire or twine.

3⁄8-in. hardwood dowel, 4 ft. in length. Saw.

Large square.

Drill with screwdriver bit and Forstner bit. Hammer.

Clamps (optional). Rasp and utility knife. Circular saw.

Ratcheting garden shears, or loppers.

Steps

Cut four 2-in.-thick bamboo poles to 7 ft. long for the uprights. Cut 3⁄4-in. bamboo poles into six 2-ft.-long pieces for the ladder-rung pieces. Lay two uprights next to each other, hold them, so they won’t roll, and mark for where the rungs will be inserted.

Use a Forstner bit to bore the holes in the uprights at the marked locations. Test to see that the ladder rung pieces will fit in the holes. Ideally, they should fit in snugly without having to be forced. If they are loose, that’s not a problem; if they are too tight, use a knife or a rasp to enlarge the hole.

Tap the rungs into the holes of one upright, using a scrap piece of bamboo as your hammer.

Insert the rungs into the other upright and tap the whole ladder together.

Check the ladder for square. Here and throughout construction, check at various points and

don’t expect perfection; the average of the three rungs should be close to square.

You could use a large clamp or two to hold the pieces together. Here’s another traditional method: Tie with bonsai wire as tightly as you can by hand. Then push or tap the wire at an angle to more firmly clamp the pieces together.

Use a handsaw to cut a number of hardwoods dowels a little shorter than the thickness of the pole you will be joining. With a forstner bit drill a 3⁄8-in. A hole through the upright and most of the way through the rung piece. Drill the hole about 3⁄8 in. Away from the hole where the rung is inserted and at a slight angle. Use a hammer to tap in a dowel. You could cut the dowel flush, or just leave it protruding out a bit.

From the 3-in.-thick bamboo pole cut two 4-ft.-long pieces for the beams. The beams rest on top of the uprights, so the tops of the uprights (that is, the tops of the ladder sections) need to be curve-cut for a neat joint. Hold the end of the upright against a beam and mark for the curve. Cut carefully with a circular saw, slowly eating away at the bamboo until you’ve come close to finishing the curve cut.

Test the fit; it probably won’t be ready for prime time. Use a rasp to fine-tune the curve until

it fits snugly (though probably not perfect, but that’s okay) against the beam.

From the 1⁄2-in poles cut four 42-in.-long pieces for the lattice, and attach with bonsai wire.

A simple crisscrossed wrap is fine, though you may want to tie a frapped joint.

From the 11⁄2-in.-thick bamboo poles cut five 30-in.-long pieces for the rafters. Three of these rafters will go on top of the beams, but two will be attached to the top of the ladder uprights, just under the beams. Hold the upright and the rafter in position and drill a pilot hole through the rafter and through just one side of the upright. Drive screws to attach them together.

Position the ladder assemblies and the beams together. At each joint, drill a pilot hole and then drive a long screw down through the top of the beam and into the rafter.

Space the three middle rafters evenly along the beams. Drill pilot holes, then drive screws down through the rafters into the beams to attach.

Check that the arbor is basically straight out of a 1-in. Bamboo pole cut four angle braces. Use the assembled arbor to determine the length. Attach the braces to the beams and the uprights by drilling pilot holes and then driving screws. You may choose to wrap these joints with bonsai wire or twine.

CHAPTER 10 CLASSIC WOODEN YARD CART

A decent wood cart makes your work more efficient and easier. This project doesn’t include any fancy bells or gadgets whistles; however, it’s adaptable, sturdy, and handled pleasantly so you can easily move this cart and materials around your yard. It is likewise simple to construct. The pulling bed for this truck is sufficiently enormous to hold a fourth of a cubic yard of mulch or yard waste, a large mortar mixing tub, a dozen cans of paint, or several potted plants. The front gate lifts out for ease of access when loading contents in the front and makes dumping your cart even easier. This yard cart is designed to roll on a pair of 26” bicycle wheels. The large-diameter wheels won’t get hung up on rocks, bumps, or any other rough yard terrain. You can use pneumatic (air-filled) tires, but airless, solid tires are less expensive and won’t go flat when you

need the cart most. In addition, this cart is built with pressure-treated lumber and corrosion- resistant hardware, so it will hold up to years of helping you haul wet or dry materials.

Materials

4 2 x 4” x 8 ft. treated pine.

Exterior-rated screws.

1  1 x 2” x 8 ft. treated pine.

2  1/2 x 8” stainless steel bolts. 1 1/2” x 4 x 8 ft. ext. plywood. 2 1/2 “stainless steel locknuts. 1 l”-dia, x 24” 6 conduit.

2 26”-dia. Wheels.

6 ½ “stainless steel washers.

Steps

Build the Frame

Cut the base rails, cross supports, legs, and axle blocks to length. Cut a 1 3/4’ radius in one end of each base rail and leg. Cut a 1 1/2 X 3 1/2” notch in each leg to fit around the base rail. The bottom of the notch is located 12” up from the bottom of the leg. The handle is secured between the base rails inside round mortises that are 1”-dia. X 3/4”—deep. Measure in 2 1/2 from the end and I” up from the bottom edge of the base rail to find the center of the handle mortises. Bore the handle mortises with an I” Forstner bit mounted in a drill press or use a 1” spade bit in a portable drill. Cut the 22 1/2’ long piece of 1”-dia. Dowel or aluminum conduit that will be the handle. Clamp the handle and cross supports between the base rails. Attach the cross supports to the base rails with 2 1/2” screws. Attach the axle blocks to the base rails with 2 1/2” screws. Attach the legs to the base rails with 2 1/2” screws.

Attach the Panels

Cut the bottom, sides, back, and gate to length and width. Round the corners of the gate with a jigsaw or sander. Then, cut the grip hole in the gate. Cut 3”-radius curves into the top corners of the sides. Attach the bottom panel to the base rails and cross supports with 1 1/4” deck screws. Attach the back to the legs with 1 ¼” deck screws. Attach the sides to the base rails and legs with 1’ screws. Cut the gate guides to length and attach them with 1” screws.

Attach the Wheels

Bore 1/2”-dia. gaps in the base rails for the hub jolts. Take extra care to keep these gaps opposite to the base rails. Affix the wheels with 1/2”-dia. x 8” hot-dipped galvanized jolts or stainless steel. Put level washers at each finish of the jolt and between the sideboard and wheel.

Varieties

Yard and garden carts come in many sizes and shapes designed for various purposes. Some, like the bicycle tire cart featured in here, is designed to haul a relatively large volume of yard waste or supplies. But if your primary need is for a manageable cart that can be used to transport tools (especially long-handled garden tools) from your garage or shed to your gardens, one like this may be more to your liking—made from solid cedar, its 4 cu. Ft. won’t handle more than one or two bags of potting soil on the cargo side. But the handle racks make

transporting shovels and rakes much easier and safer.

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CHAPTER 11 BUTTERFLY HOUSE

Materials

Steps

Butterfly houses can be almost any size, although about 3” square and 12” tall would be a good minimum. I’ve used 1 ⁄2″ pine for the house here, but any untreated wood up to 3 ⁄4″ is fine. I like the look of unfinished wood, especially after it begins to weather, so I’ve left this one natural. Still, painted houses provide an additional splash of color to your landscaping. (Some butterfly aficionados insist that painting flowers on the houses attract more butterflies, but the claim is difficult to quantify).

Once again, I’ve used a 10° angle for the roof slope, but instead of cutting angles and bevels first, this house is small enough to do that slope another, easier way later in the construction process. For that reason, note that the vertical components are all the same length. The most complicated part of this house is the front with its multiple 1 ⁄2″ × 3 1 ⁄4″ entrance slots. Mark the front for slot locations, starting with the middle one centered left-to-right, and 5 1 ⁄4″ from the bottom. All four of the outer entrances are set in 1 1 ⁄2″ from the side edges. The two lower entrances are 1” from the bottom edge, while the two upper ones are 2” from the top edge (once the roof is sloped, all holes will be evenly centered on the house front). Start the entrance slots by drilling a 1 ⁄2″ hole at each end, then clamp the workpiece to a secure surface and use a jigsaw to connect the holes.

Sand all the entrance edges smooth. Butterflies like a natural, rough surface to cling to, and there are a couple ways you can do this. A large strip of solid bark the size of the sides can be glued or stapled in a place like wallpaper on one or both sides of the house. I opted for halving some branches on the band saw and stapling them in place. Since we’ll be cutting the roof slope later, be sure the highest staple is placed at least 1 1 ⁄2″ from the top. Attach the front of the house to the two sides with glue and nails, then attach the back the same way.

Again, upper nails should be at least 1 1 ⁄2″ from the top edge to avoid cutting through them in the next step. Mark a cutline for the roof slope, and cut the 10° angle on your marks with a band saw or other saw and sand as necessary. You can make the roof angle steeper or shallower if you like. For that matter, you can eliminate the angle and go with a flat roof if you prefer. Attach the roof with glue and nails. Make the bottom removable for cleaning by mounting it to the house with four screws, one through each side.

When it comes to maintaining the cleanliness of the home, butterflies could win the Good Housekeeping award. However, leaves and other debris can get into the house through the multiple entrances, plus bark can deteriorate over time, and you may wish to replace it. Locate your finished butterfly house near your flowers, as a ready source of nectar, will attract the butterflies to the area. The house should be mounted on a slender post driven into the ground but should be no more than a foot or two off the ground. Again, the key is to keep the house as close to the flowers as possible.

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CHAPTER 12 COMPOST BIN, BIRDHOUSE,

GARDEN TRELLIS, AND CLOSET

Compost bin

Materials

5 Pallets.

6 stakes of 18-inch, 1 x 1. Mallet.

2 stakes of 72-inch, 2 x 2. Staple Gun.

Garden Netting. Wire Ties, 1 bag. Scissors.

Steps

Layout three pallets vertical to make a three-sided box in a place that you want to select for your compost bin. Now glide a wire tie via the corner at the middle, top, and bottom of the pallets to tie them together. Now put a wire tightly and slide stacks all through the middle of the side pallets of the compost bin. Lay these pieces at the front edge of the side and force the stakes into the floor. They will be flushed with the top boundaries of the side pallets.

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Birdhouse

Materials & Steps

If you want to design a birdhouse, you can get the advantage of pallet wood. You can follow the given plans and blueprint to design your birdhouse. You have to create a door at the bottom edge of the front piece, but mark it with a pencil. You can cut out the rectangle or round door.

Line up the back panel and the panels on both sides and fix them with the nail and hammer along the length of the panels. Now secure the front panel with hammering electrified nails.

It is time to set the wooden frame on the top of the bottom piece and fix it with two to three nails on each corner. Keep a flat panel in its place with hammer and nails and keep it secure. Add adhesive constructions and let the pet house dry.

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Garden Trellis

Materials

•  5 Pallets.

•  6 stakes of 18-inch, 1 x 1.

•  Mallet.

•  2 stakes of 72-inch, 2 x 2.

•  Staple Gun.

•  Garden Netting.

•  Wire Ties, 1 bag.

•  Scissors.

Steps

Select a place in the garden for vegetables, such as pumpkin or squash, to grow in A-frame trellis. Keep two boards across the plot to make a 45-degree angle with two pallets and make an A-frame. Glide wire ties all through the pallets at the top junction, and space should be 6 inches along the joints. Tie them tightly.

Now drive 3, 1 x 1 stakes of 18 inches through the bottom of every pallet of the a-frame and secure the frame in its place. Keep one on every end and another in the middle. Roll the garden net to the frame and staple it for security. Clip extra netting, and it will help vegetables to grow on the trellis.

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Garden Closet

Materials

Circular saw.

Brad nail gun. Straightedge. Drill bit set.

Miter saw. Wood chisel. Caulk gun.

Framing square. Drill/driver–cordless. Speed square.

Hammer. Tape measure.

Steps

Framing the walls

First, you must sheathe and frame the wall then connect them with joists and plates. Utilize the most optimal pieces of lumber in the front where it shows. The side walls must be nailed together then square it the side panels (plywood). Next, the 3/8 inch at the front must be over hanged with the panels—this will not show the gab at the edge when you put the doors. Connect the two sides with the bottom and top rim joists and plates. The top, bottom, and sides are all mirror images of each other than the ½ inch top front rim joist; this will hinder the door from moving. Make use of screws to join the framework together, but not the front where fasteners will be obvious—utilize 2-1/2-inch casing nails. You must then screw the 4x4 footings to the bottom plates then nailing on the base of the plywood.

Building the Roof

On your workbench, you need to build the roof. Begin with a frame, L-shaped with 2x4 sizes, add the trim, soffit, sheathing, and nailers. Shingle with asphalt and cedar shingles. Trim and screw the two pairs of rafters then nail on the ridge and fascia boards. Affix the soffit and roof sheathing. Screw on the rear and front nailers, then screw on collar ties at the points. The shingle roof must be nailed with the roof trim on a layer of felt for the roofing. In the instance you are utilizing shingles made from cedar, affix them with siding nails or narrow crown staples. Allot 1/8 inches to ¼ inches gaps between shingles to expand it.

Installing the Roof

On the shed base, set the complete roof. Screw the back and front panels to affix the base and the roof. Tilt the shed in an upright position, lay the roof on, then align the front rim joist, front collar tie, and center it sides to side. Nail the sides and cedar trim together, then align all 1x3s on the sides along the front edge of plywood overhanging. Screw and glue on the front and back panels to affix the base and roof together. Make use of the back panel to make the structure stable.

Trimming the front and hanging the doors

Cap the front panel with shingles and roofing felt. Lay metal flashing suspending the trim in order to prevent water from seeping. Align with the side battens, the horizontal one by nailing on the piece on the front. Fasten felt and flashing onto the panel to the front, then cover with shakes. Lastly, build the doors, trim the hinge, and hang the doors. Make a space of about 1/8 inch between the trim and the door. Finish off with stain or paint, then put the shed on some grave. Ensure the shed is good at the sidings then screw it to prevent it from falling. Do this by drilling 2 (½ inch) holes through the woods near the joist. This is where you will insert the screw, and lastly, fasten your built shed to the wall.

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PART IV: PLANTERS PROJECTS

CHAPTER 13

CORNER PATIO PLANTER, SHORT PLANTER WITH LEGS & PATIO GARDEN POND AND PLANTER

Corner Patio Planter

Materials

Steps

What we have here is an ideal option in contrast to putting lots of pots with plants in your window ledges: A display for your plants. This project will consist of three levels that will enable more daylight to shine down at the plants on the lower racks.

Start with ten feet of 1 x 12 wood. Use pressure-treated wood, cedar, or redwood if the display is proposed for outside use. Slice all pieces to measure on a table saw. Spread out and mark the different points on the closures of the best in class sides (A), center rack sides (B), and the base pieces (C). Cut these points utilizing a bandsaw and 1/4” cutting edge. Making use of a saw attached with dado blades or router, fabricate 1/8”-deep rabbets and dadoes in the posts (D) for the rack sides and base pieces.

Dill screw openings in the base pieces and rack side, and pilot gaps in the posts Drill pilot gaps in the rack supports (E) and center points (F) 6d completing nails (utilize one of the nails as a drill bit tool to guarantee that the distance across of the pilot openings is precisely drilled).

Sand the whole number of the pieces until smooth. The sawed edges must be sanded again or be cleaned up with a hand plane, to ensure they are adequately smooth.

Connect the supports and rack centerpieces to the sides with 6d nails. Connect the middle

ones first, and afterward build the supports at 1” stretches. Set all nails underneath the surface and fill the gaps using putty that coordinates the completion you intend to use. Connect the racks to the posts utilizing #8 x 1-1/4” flathead wood screws.

Finish the plant display with polyurethane or some other water-resistant finish if it is not made of redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated lumber.

Image/Diagram

Short Planter with Legs

Materials

(3) 1 x 8 in. x 8 ft. cedar.

¾ x 12 x 12 in. exterior plywood. Galvanized deck screws (1 ¼ in). Galvanized Finish Nails (2-inch). UV Protectant Sealer.

Tools

Circular Saw.

Jigsaw.

Drill/Driver. Clamps.

Hammer. Nailset.

Steps

Fabricating the Side Panels for the Deck Planter

Each sideboard is made out of three sheets, which are joined together during the assembly procedure by a transitory cleat.

Fabricate six bits of 1 x 8 cedar (you’ll need three pieces for each side). Slice two transitory spikes 3/4 in. long from scrap wood. Assemble the sides by laying gatherings of three sheets face-down on your workbench in two gatherings. Put in the middle a transitory fitting left-to- directly along the top edge of each gathering of sheets, and attach each board together by driving 11/4-in. wood screws through the projection into the sheets.

Do a template for denoting the profiles of the different sides. Slice a bit of hardboard or hardened cardboard 1 ¼ in. wide by 2 ½ inch long., scribe the points on the finishes and shapes of the bent pattern along the base edge. Slice the layout to shape using a jigsaw and sand the cut edges smooth.

Follow the profile from the layout onto the sideboards. Draw on the face side of the boards that don’t have the spikes. Clasp each board safely to your workbench and cut the parts using a jigsaw.

Make the Ends & Bottom

The end panels are each composed of two boards fastened together with a permanent cleat. Rip a 4-ft., I-in. length of 1 x 8 cedar to 6 in. wide. Cut the ripped board into four 12-in. lengths. Lay each pair of boards face-down on your workbench and clamp them together with the ends flush. Cut two

The end boards are each made out of two sheets secured along with a durable cleat. Tear a 4-ft., I-in. length of 1 x 8 to 6 in. wide. Slice board into four 12-in. lengths. Lay each pair of sheets face down on your workbench and cinch them along with the finishes flush. Cut two bits of scrap leftover from step 6 to 7/8 x 7/8 x 12 in. to frame two spikes. Drill countersunk pilot openings in the spikes. Collect the end boards by situating a projection flush with the base edges of each pair of sheets and attaching the parts with 11/4-in. deck screws, screwing through the spikes into the end boards, cut the base to estimate from 3/4-in. wood. Draw meeting lines from corner to corner to use as a guide for finding and penetrating five 1/2-in.-dia gaps.

Assemble the Planter

Connect the end boards to the base. Brace the base set up between the closures so it will lay on the spikes when the grower is straight up. Drill through the spikes from beneath to attach the base. Connect the sides. Position the main sideboard on the base get together, so it is focused left-to-right, and the top edges are largely flush. Drive 2-in. Finishing nails through the sideboard into the closures and the base, utilizing a nailset to drive the nails beneath the outside of the wood. Join the other side in a similar manner

Unscrew and expel the transitory spikes from the sideboards. Cut the four crown pieces. Tear cedar stock to 2 in. Wide. Measure your grower to check the length of the crown pieces. Within

edges of the crown ought to sit flush within the planters when assembled. Slice the pieces to length with the finishes mitered at 45°. Join the crown pieces to the grower with finish nails.

Finishing for Planters

Break all edges with sandpaper and test that all nail heads are set. You may decide to leave the planters incomplete, apply topcoat with paint, or a similar completion as you have on your deck.

Image/Diagram

Patio Garden Pond and Planter

Material

Pallets.

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

Hammer. Nails.

Paint. Lining. Pump. Saw.

Pencil. Measuring tape.

Steps

Start by pulling all the pallets apart. When you have all the wood separated, you are ready to begin. Measure 20 boards to be 3 feet long. Cut all of the corners of these boards at an angle.

Next, measure 20 more boards to be 18 inches long, and cut all of the boards at an angle as well. Use the photo for reference.

You have 4 posts from the center of the pallets. Cut these, so they are 30 inches in length.

Now, paint all the wood to be any color you wish.

Measure where you want your pond to be and dig holes for the posts at equal distances. You are going to hammer the wood to these posts at regularly spaced lengths. Use the photo as a reference for how to assemble completely.

Once the entire pond is assembled, place your liner inside, as well as the pump. You are now ready to add water or even fish!

Image/Diagram

Octagonal Planter & Wine Rack

Material

Steps

Do the base from a piece of l2-inch-wide plywood. To avoid having to adjust the blade angle when you bevel the opposite edge of each stave, clamp the blank to the base as in step 1, but with its narrow end at the leading end of the base. Make sure the narrow end of the blank extends off the base by 1 ¼ inch and the wide end by 1/4 inch. Position the guide bar and stop block against the workpiece, and screw the pieces to the base from underneath. Remove the bar clamps and bevel each stave.

Planter Assembly

Attach a dado head to your table saw and make necessary adjustments to its width and thickness of spline to about ¼-inch. Put the end of a stave over the blades centered, and butt the rip fence in contrast to once side of the stock and clamp a board that will serve as your guide to your table saw against the opposite face. Keeping the outside part flush against the face, affix the stave into the head. To know the measurement of the width regarding the plywood links, butt the wood pieces from end to end, affix two staves win hand screws, and calculate the total depth of the grooves. Slice the splines the equal length as the staves then ripping the pieces with the same ¼ inch wideness of your measurement.

When all the spline grooves have been cut, dry-fit the slats along with the splines. Utilize careful tubing to hold the get-together. To level the slats at the top and base, the two finishes of each piece well must be inclined. To decide the slope edge, hold a board as a straightedge over the highest point of the get-together and utilize a sliding slant to gauge the edge between the outside part of a fight and the straightedge. Tilt your table saw cutting edge to the calculated edge and cinch an expansion board to the miter measure. Adjust the cutting imprint toward one side of the fight with the edge. At that point, knock a stop obstruct into the finish of the stock and clip it to the expansion. Edge the miter check so the closures will be cut straight over. At that point, holding the workpiece flush against the augmentation and stop square, slope the finish of each fight. Utilize a similar arrangement to bevel the furthest edges of the slats.

Preparing the Staves for the Bottom

Cut dadoes over within countenances of the slats for the base with the same arrangement you utilized for crosscutting the slats. Change the width of the dado head to ¾ inch and tilt the sharp edges to a similar edge you estimated in sync 2. Set the height to 3/8 inch. Clip the stop square to the miter gauge to find the dado 3/4 inch from the base of the slats. Point the miter gauge as you did in the other step to make up for the tapered sides of the staves. Hold the workpiece flush against the expansion, and the stop hinder as you feed it over the saw table.

Cutting the Bottom of the Planter

Dry-fit the staves and splines together. Center the assembly on a piece of 3/4-inch marine- grade plywood and outline the outside of the planter on the workpiece. At that point, mark a second blueprint with the primary plan, counterbalance from it by 1/2 inch to make up for the dadoes in the slats. Utilize the second blueprint as your cutting example as you saw out the base on your band saw. When the base is removed, drill a couple of waste gaps through it.

Assembling the Planter

Test all the pieces of wood together to check if it all fits. Give much attention to the splines that fit just right in the bottom fits and grooves into the dadoes. If there are necessary adjustments, use a chisel to fix these ill-fitting joints. Next, stick together the staves on the bottom and splice grooves with wood glue. Push the flush, splines, and bottom pieces together. Properly affix the, with bicycle inner tube, surgical tubing, or band clamps.

Installing the Lip

Trim the lip pieces to length by mitering each end at 22 ½ inches. Put glue to the contacting surfaces of the staves and lip pieces, and position each piece, so it ends align with the seams between the staves. Use two nails to fix each lip piece to its stave.

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Image/Diagram

Wine Rack with Stemware Storage

Materials

1 full pallet with notched support boards.

2” screws.

1 wineglass (to use as a measuring guide). 2 scrap pallet slat pieces, about 2” wide. Medium-grit sandpaper.

Speed square.

Reciprocating saw (or circular saw, jigsaw, or miter or handsaw). Sawhorses (optional, depending on the saw used).

Table saw (optional, depending on pallet slat widths). Tape measure.

Cordless drill. Jigsaw.

Palm sander (optional).

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Steps

LAY THE FULL PALLET on the ground with the notched side of the support boards facing up. Use a speed square to mark a line on each support board of your pallet that lines up with the top of the second slat from the end on the backside of your pallet. Depending on the width of your pallet slats and how far apart they are attached to the support boards, you will end up cutting your support boards about 10–12” long and there will be 1 pallet slat attached to the front and 2 attached to the back.

Use your saw to cut each support board on your mark. I used a reciprocating saw because I could just prop up that end of the pallet on 2 pieces of 2×4 scrap wood and cut. If you would prefer to set your pallet on a set of sawhorses, you could use a circular saw, jigsaw, or even a handsaw. You might not have this, but my support boards stuck out a little beyond the pallet slats at the end. If yours do the same, cut them flush with the pallet slat with a reciprocating saw. Measure the depth of your entire pallet. Remove a pallet slat of the right width (based on the measurement in step 5) from the pallet you just cut apart. Use your cordless drill to attach it to the bottom of your pallet piece with 2” screws, using 2 per support piece.

You might need to rip a pallet slat to size with a table saw, but I got lucky and had one just the right width. You could stop right here and just finish her off with some sanding and maybe a personalized message, but where there’s wine, there need to be wineglasses, so let’s add a rack along the bottom for some convenient wineglass storage. Cut off 1 more pallet slat from that same pallet with the same measurement. Using a wineglass as a guide and a tape measure to ensure the equal distance between each glass, mark how far apart you would like each wineglass to hang upside down from the rack as a frame of reference, my wine rack measures 40” long. I decided 5” looked like a good distance apart for the wine glasses.

Using the equally spaced marks as a guide, use a speed square to mark U-shaped openings that are about 3” long and 1” wide use a jigsaw to cut out each U-shaped opening. Cut the pallet slat scraps about 2” × 4” long. They will function as spacers when you attach the wineglass holder board to leave enough of a gap for the base of your wine glasses. Lay the wine rack on its back. Line up the 2” pieces of pallet slat with each end of the wine rack along the bottom side. Layer the pallet slat with your U-shaped openings (openings facing the front of the wine rack) on top of the 2” pallet slat pieces (so the 2” pieces are creating a gap between the wineglass holder slat and the wine rack).

Mark and then drill 2 pilot holes with your “drill bit; these holes will go through the wineglass holder slat and the 2” pallet slat pieces. Make 2 holes per slat piece about 2” apart Use your palm sander with medium-grit sandpaper to sand every piece of the entire project now, before you attach the wineglass holder board. It will be easier to sand in each of the wineglass holder cuts before assembly. Line up everything as you did in step 13. Use 2 (2”) screws per end to attach the wineglass holder to the scrap pieces and onto the bottom of your wine rack.

Image/diagram

CHAPTER 14 STRIPPED-DOWN

WINDOW PLANTER BOX

A window box brightens a home from the outside and the inside alike, with flowers that can be seen from each side. This one has a crisp, clean look, with squared edges and a painted finish. The simple trim in front adds classic lines. Use rot-resistant wood, such as the heartwood of cedar or pressure-treated lumber.

The cleat that attaches to the wall, as well as to the bottom, should be treated lumber. The box can be filled directly with soil, or you can have a local sheet-metal shop make a galvanized insert to fit. Here, the sill is an architectural feature, so the box is installed just below it because the sill protrudes 1 in. From the wall, a 1-in. A cleat is used for attaching the box. You may choose instead to attach the box even with the top of the sill.

Material

Cedar or treated 1x 8, for sides, bottom, and trim. Pressure-treated board, for the cleat.

Deck or stainless-steel screws. Masonry screws, if attaching to brick. Spray primer and paint.

Tools

Power miter saw or miter box.

Drill with screwdriver and masonry bits. Angle square.

Clamp.

Steps

Measure the sill and determine the desired size of the window box. We’ve chosen to install a box that extends 1 in. Beyond the sill on each side. Use a power miter saw, or a hand miter saw to cut three 1×8s to the width of the planter minus 11⁄2 in. Place the bottom piece on pieces of wood to raise it 3⁄4 in. Or so. Make markings on the sides to denote the middle of the bottom piece’s thickness. Drill pilot holes and drive screws to attach the three pieces together. Cut the cleat (which will be used for attaching the box in step 8) to the same length as the three pieces you just assembled. Hold it against the back of the planter and place a piece of 1×8 against the side. Use an angle square to mark the side piece for cutting. Attach the sides by drilling pilot holes and driving screws. These screws will show, so you may choose to sink the screws and fill the holes with wood filler, or countersink and plug.

Drill 3⁄8-in. Drainage holes in a grid pattern at the bottom of the box. Rip-cut trim pieces 2 in. Wide. Hold them in place to mark for cutting. To attach, drill pilot holes and drive screws from the inside of the box and into the trim. Make sure the screws are not so long that they will poke through. Apply primer and paint. You can use spray paint, as shown, or brush it on. Use a product that will last in your climate.

If you are attaching to a brick wall, measure to make sure you will drive screws into bricks, which hold better than the mortar. Drill holes through the cleat using a wood screw. Then hold the cleat in position and drill with the masonry bit to mark the location. Remove the cleat and finish drilling the holes in the brick. Use the correct bit for your masonry screws. Replace the cleat and drive the masonry screws to fasten the cleat. Attach the window box by drilling screws through the sides into the cleat from outside the box and through the back into the cleat from inside the box. Add soil and plant.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 15 BAMBOO PROJECTS

Bamboo Flower Planter or Container

Material

3 poles of bamboo, each 36 inches long, 1 inch in diameter.

Tools and Supplies

Fine-tooth saw.

Splitting knife. Mallet.

Fine-tip permanent marker. Measuring Tape.

Knife.

Power drill and assorted drill bits.

6 drywall screws, 1 to 1 ½ inches long. Water sealer.

Paintbrush.

Steps

Sweat the bamboo poles. Cut a 7-inch length from one of the poles. Use the knife and mallet to split it, creating two feet. Arrange the three poles side by side. Position the center area of each length, where the openings will be cut between nodes. Mark the center points. Keeping the centers lined up and measuring from the left side, mark one pole at 35 inches, one at 21 inches, and one at 27 inches. Use the saw to cut the lengths, straight across at the nodes. Cut the other ends on an angle to create an open elongated oval.

Now you’ll make the center openings. Starting with the 35-inch length pole, measure 14 inches from the left end, and use the saw to cut straight down about halfway through the culm. From that cut, measure up 1 ¾ inch and saw on an angle into the culm to meet the cut. Pop-out the inner piece. Repeat this process with the other two poles, cutting the 21-inch length 9 inches up from the base. And the 27-inch piece 12 inches up from the base.

Use the knife to slice off the black outer layer of the bamboo and make decorative stripes on the ends, at the center openings, and on the feet.

Attach the feet by centering the three poles with their opening facedown. Measure and mark 5 inches below the straight cut of the opening and 7 inches above it.

Center the fee, curves sides facing down, along with the points you marked. Drill pilot holes. And drive the 1-inch screws through the feet and into the poles. Use the brush to apply the sealer on the outer surfaces and inside the center and openings of the vase. Let dry.

Image/Diagram

Bamboo Fence

Material

Drill.

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CIRCULAR SAW OR RECIPROCATING saw.

Countersink piloting bit. Wire cutters.

Lumber (4 × 4, 2 × 4, 1 × 4, 2 × 6).

Pliers Deck screws (3”, 21 ⁄2”, 2”).

Bamboo fence panels with 3 ⁄4”-dia. (or as desired) canes. Level Tape measure Eye.

Ear protection. Galvanized steel wire.

Work gloves.

Steps

Install and trim the 4 × 4 posts according to the size of your bamboo panels, setting the posts in concrete (see page 243) for the 6 × 8-ft. Panels in this project, the posts are spaced 100” on- center and are trimmed at 75” tall. Install the top 2 × 4 stringers. Cut each stringer to fit snugly between the posts. Position the stringer on edge, so it is flush with the tops of the posts and with the back or front faces of the posts. Fasten the stringer with 3” deck screws driven through angled pilot holes. Use one screw on each edge and one on the inside face of the stringer, at both ends.

Mark the location of each bottom stringer. The span between the top of the top stringer and bottom of the bottom stringer should equal the bamboo panel height plus about 1”. Cut and install the bottom stringers in the same fashion as the top stringers. Here, the bottom stringer will be installed 2” above the ground for rot prevention. Unroll the bamboo panels.

Flatten the bamboo panels over the inside faces of the stringers. Make sure the panels fit the frames on all sides. Using a countersink-piloting bit (inset), drill a slightly countersunk pilot hole through a bamboo cane and into the stringer at a top corner of the panel. Fasten the corner with a 2” deck screw, being careful not to overtighten and split the bamboo.

Fasten the rest of the panel with screws spaced 12” apart. Stagger the top and bottom of the screw, and drive them in an alternating pattern, working from one side to the other. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to install the remaining bamboo panels.

To shorten the length of a bamboo panel, cut the wiring holding the canes together at least two canes beyond the desired length using wire cutters. Remove the extra canes, and then wrap the loose ends of the wire around the last cane in the panel.

Cover the top and bottom ends of the panels with 1 × 4 battens. These finish off the panels and give the fence a similar look on both sides. Cut the battens, so the ends are flush against the inside faces of the posts and fasten them to the panels and stringers with 21 ⁄2” deck screws driven through pilot holes.

Add the top cap. Center the 2 × 6 top cap boards over the posts, so they overhang about 1” on either side. Fasten the caps to the posts and stringers with 3” deck screws. Use miter joints for corners, and use scarf joints (cut with opposing 30° or 45° bevels) to join cap boards over long runs.

Unroll and position a bamboo panel over one or both sides of the existing fence. Check the panel with a level and adjust as needed. For rot prevention, hold the panel 1 to 2” above the ground. Tip: A 2 × 4 laid flat on the ground makes it easy to prop up and level the panel.

Fasten the panel with deck screws driven through the bamboo canes (and fence siding boards, if applicable) and into the fence stringers. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws, being careful not to overtighten and crack the bamboo. Space the screws 12” apart, and stagger them top and bottom.

Install the remaining bamboo panels, butting the edges together between panels for a seamless appearance. If the fence posts project above the stringer boards, you can cut the bamboo panels flush with the posts.

Variation: To dress up a chain-link fence with bamboo fencing, simply unroll the panels over the fence and secure them every 12” or so with short lengths of galvanized steel wire. Tie the wire around the canes or the panel wiring and over the chain link mesh.

Image/Diagram

Bamboo trellis

Material

2 lengths of rebar, 4 ft long.

60 drywall screws in lengths if 1,1 ¼, 15/8 and 2 inches. Galvanized wire, 16-gauge.

Copper wire. Binder Twine.

Tools and Supplies

Hammer. Measuring Tape.

Power drill and assorted drill bits. Pliers.

Wire Cutters.

Cutting List

Steps

Working with the two-foot poles that will serve as posts, use the hammer and a piece of the rebar to knock out the lower 3 feet of diaphragms.

On a large, flat surface, lay the posts 6 feet apart. Place the horizontal stringers in the top, one 3 inches below the top of the post, once 3 inches above the base and one in the middle. Drill pilot holes at the intersections of posts and stringers and drive in the 2-inch screws.

Mark the center of each horizontal. You’ll use the marks as reference points when placing the diagonals to form the diamond pattern.

Place five of the long diagonals and one of the short diagonals on the frame, all are leaning in the same direction. Center the diagonals, drill pilot holes, and use the appropriate screws to secure the ends to the frame.

Turn over the trellis assembly. Layout the remaining diagonal poles in the opposite direction.

Ready, diamond patterns. Adjust, drill the pilot hole, and screw the intersections.

To install the trellis, mark the placement of the two end posts. Use the hammer to pound the rebar into the ground at those points. Lift up the trellis and slide the posts over the rebar.

Use the wire or cordage to reinforce intersections that need extra support.

Image/Diagram

Bamboo Tripod

A bamboo tripod can be dropped almost anywhere in a garden or flowerbed. You can train vines to crawl up it, you can hook a small hanging plant from its top knot, or it can just sit there to provide a focal point or visual frame. This is perhaps the simplest project in the book. Still, it calls for a bit of knack and some practice to achieve a knot that is neatly wrapped with no crossing over. There are three basic components of the knot: a clove hitch on the first pole, wrapping around the other poles, and “frapping”—wrapping sideways to tighten the whole knot assemblage.

Materials

Three bamboo poles, the same length and about the same thickness.

Bonsai wire or twine.

Lineman’s pliers.

Steps

In this example, our bamboo poles are about 3⁄4 in. In diameter, and we used a piece of wire about 16 in. Long. To start, tie a clove hitch on one of the poles: Wrap the wire (or twine) around and pull down a length somewhat longer than the thickness of the other two poles. Move that length of wire up and wrap the longer length around it and back around the pole. Slip a loop under and pull it all the way through. Tighten the clove hitch.

Wrap the three poles together. Keeping the side of the wires by the side, wrap over one pole and under another. Wrap in the other direction with the longer length only. Continue wrapping, taking care not to cross over. Once you’ve wrapped three or four times, pull tight using lineman’s pliers.

It’s time for frapping. Loop the wire sideways. Wrap it sideways two or three times, pull tight, and wrap over to the other pole. Wrap sideways again and pull tight. Finish by twisting tight,

then cut the loose ends. The three poles now are tied fast, but flexibly, so you can open them up.

Image/Diagram

CHAPTER 16 DIY BACKYARD BAR

You can impress your friends by starting a get-together or party with drinks served from your own, unique bar—one that you made yourself. A striking feature whether you set it up indoors in a den, game room, or converted basement, or on a deck in your yard, this bar will be practical as well as the centerpiece of the party. Don’t let the scale of this project intimidate you—it may be large, but it’s easy to put together.

Materials

Flat-head screwdriver.

Sandpaper, 80-and 120-grit, and woodblock. Tape measure.

Pencil.

Straightedge and string. Jigsaw Handsaw.

Wood rasp.

Hand drill with 3/16 -in/4-mm drill bit. Cordless drill/driver.

Nails and wood screws. Electric sander.

One 2-by-15 1/2 -by-59-in/5-by-39-by-150-cm board (for the top).

Two 3/4 -by-17 1/2 -by-55-in/2-by-45-by-140-cm sheets of the manufactured board (for the base section and shelf).

Two 3/4 -by-15-by-33 1/4 -in/2-by-38-by-84-cm sheets of the manufactured board (for the side sections).

Two 4 3/4 -by-33 1/4 -in/12-by-84-cm semicircular fence posts (for the front posts). 14 ft/4.2 m of 1 1/4 -in/3-cm board (for the battens).

Five 2-by-10-in/5-by-25-cm semicircular fence posts (for the feet; rough measurements, depending on available scraps).

Twenty-nine 25-in 1×2/2.5-by-5-by-64-cm boards (for the front section).

Steps

The curve of the bar will be dictated by the shape of the top, so it’s best to start here and work down. To give my bar a real woody feel, I decided to leave the rough appearance on the solid wood top. For the same look, simply clean away any loose bark or dead wood from the edge, using the flat-head screwdriver, then smooth out rough edges with 80-grit sandpaper.

Lay down the wood top onto the sheet for the base section, and draw around the top with the pencil to act as a guide for marking out the base section. Now, for the angles and straight sides, draw straight lines on the board that follow the sides of the outline drawn around the top, using the straightedge. To smooth out the curve along the front—if you are not good at making freehand curves—attach the pencil to a long piece of string, securing the other end of the string to a pivot point (such as a nail with a large head in a scrap board). The longer the piece of string, the gentler the curve. Using the tape measure and pencil, measure and mark the depth of the base section to extend it to 17 1/2 in/45 cm. using the jigsaw, cut out the base section.

Use the base section as a template for the shelf and trace around it with the pencil. Because the shelf will be sitting inside the carcass, you will need to reduce its width by the thickness of the side sections. Mark in from each short end the thickness of the sheet for the side sections— in my case 3/4 in/2 cm. cut out the shelf, using the jigsaw.

Measure and mark the two side sections, using the tape measure and pencil. My top is 2 in/5 cm thick, the feet are 2 in/5 cm high, and the base section is 3 /4 in/2 cm thick, so I subtracted

4 3/4 in/12 cm from 38 in/96 cm, the height I wanted the bar to be, making my sides 33 1/4 in/84 cm high. Measure and mark the two fence posts to the same height, and cut them to length with the handsaw.

Make a curve on the top back corner of each side section to provide a smooth transition from the deeper shelf and base sections to the top. Using the pencil, mark a curve that starts above where you intend to fix the shelf and ends at the back edge of the top. Cut out the curve, using the jigsaw. Soften the edges with the wood rasp, then smooth them with 80-grit sandpaper.

With the main bar components cut out, it’s time to start fitting together the pieces using battens and wood screws. Using at least 1 1 /4 -in/3-cm boards, cut four batters to the width of the bar’s side sections. Drill three 3 /16 -in/4-mm pilot holes through each of two adjacent faces in each batten. Using the screwdriver and wood screws, attach one batten flush with the bottom edge on each side section, then measure up to the point you want the shelf to be—mine is 24 in/61 cm from the bottom—and secure the next batten here.

If you are able to get a helping hand, the next stage will be much easier. First, use the screwdriver and attach the base section to the side sections with the battens and wood screws. Now, line up the shelf and attach it to the side sections with battens and wood screws, too.

Measure, mark, and cut four battens to fit along the front vertical edge of the side sections, both above and below the shelf. Make pilot holes as in step 6 and secure the battens to the side sections with wood screws (but leave a gap of at least 1 1/2 in/4 cm for the batten to attach the top). Now, use the battens to attach the fence posts, driving wood screws through the battens and into the posts.

To make the front section of the bar, measure the distance from the shelf to the base section and mark it on aboard. Using the handsaw, cut it to size, then use this board as a template to mark and cut the rest of the boards for the front. To create the pattern on the front, start by nailing one board on its flat face to the edges of the shelf and base sections. Set the next board on its edge and nail it to the first board (not the shelf and base sections). Set the next board on its flat edge, nail it to the shelf and base sections, and repeat it.

It’s time to fit the bar top in place. With the same techniques and type of board used for the battens in step 6, measure, mark, and cut two battens, then secure them in place flush with the top of the side sections, along the inside, using wood screws. Set the top in place, and secure it by driving in wood screws through the battens from below.

Flip the carcass upside-down onto its top. Use scraps from the fence posts as feet for the bar. Space the five feet evenly around the bottom, with one in the center, and draw around them with a pencil. Drill two 3/16 -in/4-mm holes inside each of the pencil lines. After placing the feet back within the pencil marks, secure them in place with screws driven through the holes from inside the carcass and into the feet.

Image/diagram

CONCLUSION

Congratulations on making it at the end of the book. Woodworking is one of the most useful skills a person can master. Not only will you able to build a wide array of planters, furniture, decors, etc. for yourself, your friends, and family but also can be a good source of livelihood and income. Make it your personal hobby, woodworking aid you put your creativity into something useful and will keep you busy. To top that, it is a fairly cheap and fun-full hobby. You can use different types of wood, even scraps and driftwoods.

Like any other skill, we must get through different stages of learning in able for us to finish wood projects with good quality and efficiency. For beginners, woodworking might seem like a complex and hard task. However, once you make your first wood item, you’ll realize that woodworking is quite easy, especially if you have the right guide and plan to follow. Such plans give sufficient detail to make the wood project much easier to work. A great project to work in wood begins with a detailed plan.

Here in this book, you were given a variety of woodworking projects for outdoors. So, if you’re keen, excited, and ready to follow the instructions, you can build with wood in no time at all. Always keep in your mind that woodworking gives you a lot of opportunity or chances to injure yourself or even other people. Practicing ample care all the time when doing these projects, especially when handling power tools, will help you prevent such hazards. Read and analyze all the guidelines in this book with care and be sure to also do the same with manuals given by the manufacturer regarding the tool and equipment you will be using.

But apart from having the best woodworking plans, other main factors that will measure whether you’ll enjoy creating pieces of wooden art are your drive and passion. No matter how many techniques you know or how many tools you have, you won’t really be doing woodworking properly if you don’t put your heart and vision to it. Woodworking skills will also give you increased self-esteem because you’ll feel proud of your accomplishments.

Now to be able to be good at woodworking, you must let go of the initial reluctance associated with it. In time you’ll learn that there is no standard way to create a great wooden creation, but rather, a combination of your imagination, deftness, and past experience. The point is, do not hesitate to start these projects by yourself. There is a huge knowledge base of woodworking insight available in print and online. If the undertaking does not end up as you’d intended, you can always start over, and you are going to have learned a lot along the way. We frequently discover more from our mistakes in working wood than from easy successes. Of course, you don’t have to follow every single tip mentioned in this book to become a great woodworker; so, focus on learning from your mistakes as much as possible. You’ll be surprised that after following several plans, you’re the one coming up and designing your own plans.

So there you go, you may be able to do all the woodworking projects you discovered in this book. Hope it was useful and able to provide you with a good knowledge base you will need to achieve your goals, whatever they may be.

Also by Jhon Mc Connell J.

Woodworking

Woodworking Projects for Beginners

Woodworking Outdoor Projects

The Complete Book of Woodworking