PYROGRAPHY
FOR BEGINNERS:

Learn the Basics and the Best Tips to Kick Start Your Wood Burning Patterns

Jack Noyer

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Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 Preparing Tools

Buying a Pyrograph and its Accessories

The Best Wood Burning Pens Review

Chapter 2 Beginner’s Information

The Tips of the Pyrograph

How to Change Wood burning Tools Tips

Useful Optional Accessories

Other supplies

Setting Up Your Work Area

How to Handle Tools

Safety Precautions

Advice for Choosing Wood

Setting up the Wood

Ideal Temperature for Pyrography

How to Hold Your Pen

Cleaning the Nibs

Pyrograph Maintenance Tips

Chapter 3 Basic and Intermediate Practice and Techniques

Straight Lines Curves Using Edges

How to Burn Letters on Wood

Darkening the Letters

How to Transfer the image to the Wood

Basic Tracing Technique

Flexible Tracing

Image Transferring

Tracing with a Do-it-yourself Stencil

The Stippling Technique

Shading

Learn to Shade with the Pyrograph

Particular Nibs and Their Amazing Effects

Texture Patterns

Writing and Outlining

Fill Texturing

Chapter 4 Finishing Techniques

Adding Colors to Your Designs

Finishing Technique for Pyrography

Using Finished Wood as the Base

Chapter 5 Pyrography Ideas and Inspiration

Imagination and Skill are Essential

Pyrography Patterns

Wood Burning Tricks

According to Uses

According to Occasions

Chapter 6 Make Your Own Gifts

Wooden Bangle

Bamboo Adjustable Bangle

Wooden Earrings

Your Home-Made Candle Holder

Wall Candle Holder

The Perfect Chef Gift

Cake Decorating Turntable

Wooden Door Tags

Customize Your Key Fobs

Chapter 7 Wooden Toys

Your Own Domino

Wooden Alphabet Blocks

Tic-Tac-Toe Game Set

Puzzle

Spinner Toy

Chapter 8 Home Decoration, Ideas and Project Instructions

Decorative Plate

Amazing Door Handler

Decorative Bowl

Your Own Wall Puzzle

Wooden Keepsake Box

Wooden Wall Clock

Wooden Pallet Art to Furnish Walls

Wooden World Map

Coat Rack

Decorative Easter Eggs

Vase Holder Made from Bamboo

Small Wooden Pot

Cozy Birdhouse from Gourd

Gourd Bottle for Wine and Tea

Workbench

Faux Antique Jar Made from Gourd

Cushion Bag

Conclusion

Introduction

What Is Pyrography?

Pyrography is a heat drawing technique that has been used for many centuries, using the same principle, marking a surface using controlled burning. For this, it has always been used tips of very resistant materials, capable of containing and transmitting high temperatures.

The evolution of this technique has been significant to the point where it is still used today but applied with a tool called pyrograph. This instrument works with electrical energy and generates a large amount of heat that it transmits through a tip.

Necessities for Starting Up the Craft of Pyrography.

As a learner or even as a specialist in the craft of pyrography, you will require all or a portion of these devices:

A Complete Tool Kit: Get for yourself a total toolbox. You can get it in the open market, shopping centers or in the online market. If you can't manage the cost of it, don't stress, you can get your tools gradually

The Wood Burning Pen: It is the pyrography craftsman most loved device. They are commonly made of metal at their tip and a metallic bar going through to the wired fitting of the instrument

As you continue to read this book you will learn the basics of pyrography and how it works. Furthermore, you are going to tackle on all the pyrography techniques and practice them through the projects we have provided in this guidebook for you. Read on and let’s get started!

Chapter 1    Preparing Tools

There are a variety of pyrographs, but in essence, there are two main types: solid point and temperature-controlled pyrographs.

Craft-style solid point pyrograph works with a single temperature and have longer heating and cooling times (normally five to eight minutes).  They are useful for doing simple jobs or starting out in the world of pyrography. Some other feature of this tool are the bigger handpiece and a double heat shield, which will protect your hand from the heat from the pen tip.  

Pyrographs with a temperature regulator are a much more professional instrument with which you can vary the heat that remains at the tip and will burn the material to be worked on.

Although solid point pyrographs are very good for performing certain pyrography jobs, the reality is that by having a pyrograph with a temperature regulator, the possibilities of applying the technique are substantially expanded:

The entire range of possible materials can be successfully worked: fabric, cork, eva rubber, wood, leather and much more, since the temperature can be regulated according to the delicacy or resistance of the material

By varying the temperature and with the application of certain techniques, it is possible to perform different types of effects on the same material

The temperature adjustable pyrograph easily maintains the desired temperature, so there is no risk of increases or decreases in heat affecting the work

These types of instruments have greater durability and resistance

Due to the resistance of this tool, you can work on a pyrography for long hours which is not possible with another type of pyrograph

Buying a Pyrograph and its Accessories

There is a lot of elements to consider while figuring out which pyrograph is best for your needs. It will rely upon numerous variables including your budget, expected use, and so forth.

If you are confused on the right kind of tool to buy, you should consider getting a tool having some or all of the following features:

Having On/Off switch.

Having a nice grip

Easy controlled temperature

The cost of wood burners varies depending on the level of heat they produce and their regulators. There are pyrograph for newbies and also professionals. They are of very varied prices and with a large number of accessories available. Many of these accessories are included with the purchase of the pyrograph but they can also be purchased independently. A basic wood burner can cost around 50 dollars (USD). On the other hand, Wood burners with high quality mainly for professionals can cost between 100 - 300 dollars (USD).

There are various variables to consider if you are in the market for a pyrography toolbox. They are: 

1.POWER

As a rule, numerous manufacturers of professional wood burning apparatuses will disclose to you that the more power the better. On paper, this is genuine because the hotter the tip of your pyrography machine, the quicker you will have the option to make impressions. Having an excess of power can frequently prompt premature failure of your burning apparatus component. It can likewise prompt unwanted darkened look (except if that is what you are going for). 

If you are searching for a quick pyrography device, at that point consider one with a higher number of amps than the one with high overall watt output. 

You will likewise need to think about the voltage. Three-volt frameworks regularly feature wires with heavier measures, which implies less detail in your markings. Two-volt frameworks normally offer wires with better gauges, which is perfect for increasingly detailed work. Three-volt frameworks are frequently found in craft-style wood burners while two-volt frameworks are normally connected with variable temperature burners. 

2.TYPES OF TIPS 

The tip of your pyrograph is the thing that establishes the impression. In that capacity, it is critical to get the correct tip for your needs. Investigate the following tips types below: 

Interchangeable: it is one of the more significant features for detailed artistry, it gives you the flexibility needed to make a detailed work. It will likewise permit you to work with less wood-burning pens since you can switch the tips. 

Non-polished: These tips are somewhat more unpleasant and are bound to delay materials. The outcome is a less refined look with more defects. These are normally found in craft-style pyrography devices and are incredible for making large dark surfaces. 

Polished: These tips are exceptionally smooth, which permits them to run neatly over surfaces. They give considerably more detail and are regularly found on variable temperature burners. 

Fixed: Fixed tips heat up more rapidly for quicker and progressively uniform drawing. 

Comfort: The ease and comfort you use to hold and use your pyrography instrument are critical, particularly if you plan on using it for a long period. Craft-style apparatuses often have bigger handles and can be more difficult to use without getting cramps during prolonged use. Variable temperature instruments will, in general, have smaller handles that are simpler to draw with, and they are simpler to use for longer timeframes without encountering fatigue.

The Best Wood Burning Pens Review

RAZERTIP DUAL BURNER 

If you are hoping to improve your craft, this is one of the best amongst other wood pyrography devices out there and this is obvious by the number of experts that use it. The Razertip Dual Burner includes a 10-amp output to its wire style wood burning tips. The outcome is an extraordinarily quick tip recovery time that will let you draw quicker and all the more easily. This is perfect for working continuously and taking advantage of your imaginative stream.

It likewise includes variable temperature controls that let you change the heat from a "1" to a "10". It is additionally intended to limit yield with the goal that you never overheat the wood you're working on, regardless of whether it's at the maximum heat level. More than 800 pens and tip combinations are accessible through Razertip and a decent selection can be requested through different organizations making it one of the most adaptable pyrography apparatuses available. 

This wood etching pen is intended for safety and dependability also. It highlights stable hardware to guarantee reliable markings each time you lay the pen down. The Razertip unit is also capable of using pens from different brands also which is for users who have built up a preference for different pens. 

I would strongly recommend the Razertip Dual Burner to experts who require exceptional precision while burning or even the person who picks pyrography as a hobby and need the best wood burning instrument out there. If you are no able to find the Razertip in stock the Colwood Super Pro II is another incredible alternative. 

TRUART STAGE 2 PROFESSIONAL WOOD BURNING TOOL 

This is one of the better quality pyrography instruments available and outstanding amongst other professional wood burning toolbox which incorporates a combination of tips. It is an extraordinary decision for someone hoping to put resources into their craft. It includes an amazing 60-watt wood burner with quick heat response to guarantee fast and smooth drawing abilities. You can likewise change the heat level to amazingly exact degrees with the help of digital voltage control. This component lets you set your tip to deliver the perfect measure of heat required for each task. 

The truart Stage 2 Professional Woodburning Detailer is additionally little and light. Therefore, it is very comfortable and permits users to make exact markings. A noteworthy 20 hints are likewise included with this pyrography toolbox! This wood etching pen is intended for the safety and unwavering quality too. It features stable hardware to guarantee reliable markings each time you lay the pen down.

WALNUT HOLLOW CREATIVE VERSA 

This wood-burning device likewise incorporates numerous points, making it an extraordinary alternative for various projects, for example, wood burning, soldering, calligraphy, and shading.

This is an incredible entry-level pyrography device for the individuals who need the entire features to get started with this work of art without using up every dime. 

DIVIDER LENK WOODWORKER 10-IN-1 

This "ten-in-one" pyrography device possesses ten tips for handling any work, not simply wood-burning and different types of pyrography. It highlights seven tips for burning wood, two dips intended for cutting and fusing, and one soldering tip. It likewise includes 30 watts of intensity that can heat the tips to 1050 degrees Fahrenheit, and even come with a storage case. 

It's reasonably cheap and comes with huge amounts of extraordinary features that will be helpful for amateurs hoping to learn wood consuming and that's only the tip of the iceberg. If you are simply getting into the art this is one of the best wood consuming pens for beginners however adaptable enough for experienced artists.

DREMEL 2000 VERSA TIP BUTANE TORCH 

It additionally includes a butane torch for soldering, total with a basic trigger for the ignition added into the device. You can likewise turn on a "flame lock" for simple use with insignificant hand fatigue. Regardless of what project you are taking a shot at, the different temperature controls will assist you with handling it with the perfect measure of heat. 

This specific pyrography machine is an extraordinary mid-level device for individuals who need a strong and enduring unit that can be used for various tasks.

Chapter 2    Beginner’s Information

Now you are armed with your wood burner, the next step is to pick the correct wood burning nib.

The Tips of the Pyrograph

This accessory is the main one without any doubt. The tip of the pyrograph is the part that transmits heat to the material to be engraved. With the shape of the tips, it is possible to create the effects on the surface to be engraved.

Many wood-burners come with different tips which can be screwed into the end of the burner. They come in different sizes. To do detailed work, it is advisable to use a small tip. For large work, you should use a bigger tip.

Note: for more details on choosing wood-burning tips (nibs), there are also specially shaped tips that can be used to make different types of line. There are tips for shading, there are also tips for drawing straight lines.

One tip may seem sufficient to carry out certain tasks but the evolution of this instrument has allowed the use of a variety of tips to achieve effects that really raise the quality of the final product. In order to obtain excellent quality pyrography, it is not optional to have a pyrograph with interchangeable tips.

The manufacturers of the pyrographs are aware of this, which is why the vast majority of pyrographs have the possibility of exchanging the tips. These pieces have become something much more than an accessory, they are essential for making pyrography.

Tips come in various sizes, names, and shapes. This variance is dependent on the manufacturer from which you got your equipment from.  

Acquiring a pyrograph with a variety of tips is ideal. There are many that offer between 20 and 40 pieces between tips and seals to mark on the material or even more. The greater the number of points, the greater the number of effects can be achieved in the pyrography. However, there is a specific list of elemental tips to work with the pyrography machine:

Universal tip

Flat Shovel tip

Curved pala point

Peak shape

Empty circle tip

Toothed shovel tip

Triangular shaped tip

Arromada point

Fine point

With these tips, it is more than enough to create high quality pyrography as it will be possible to make lines, points, words, curves, shadows, parallel lines, constructions with geometric shapes and more.

As a starter, the set of tips that you should be making use of should be comprised of the following;

Flat spoon-shaped shader;

A tight bent loop writing tip;

Curved-edged spear shader;

Ballpoint writing tip;

Wide-wire square tip shader.

Tips of these types will cover almost any kind of project you may want to carry out as a beginner. As you progress with this craft and become more confident in your craft, you can then source and begin to make use of professional tips. 

Some brands of pens are built to uniquely function with the electrical makeup of that particular pyrography machine. You may, however, come across machines that allow the user to make use of pens from other brands on their machines. This is, however, not advisable as your unit may malfunction. In buying a new unit, take into consideration the ergonomics of the pen, the power rating, the connection between the unit and the pen, and other features that will offer you a seamless burning experience. 

How to Change Wood burning Tools Tips

To change tips, practice changing them while the tool is cool to get used to how the tips can be removed and inserted.

Replace the tips of the pyrograph when it is at room temperature and in the case of doing it with a clamp, take care not to apply too much pressure on it. Some pyrograph accessory kits include the proper tweezers for this.

Useful Optional Accessories

For pyrography, the basic accessories are few. However, there is a wide variety of elements that can be used for this activity that will facilitate the application of the technique and will improve the quality of the work. Some of them are:

Hard bristle brush: It is used to do proper maintenance to the tips.

Templates: They are used to engrave specific shapes on surfaces with precision and little effort.

Blade: To cut some materials. It is installed as a tip and can cut with great precision. It is very useful to work with fabric, leather or eva rubber.

Tip Case: Tips are small pieces that can be easily misplaced, so an accessory to store them in an organized way will be a great help. 

Other supplies 

Other supplies needed for pyrography include the following:

Wood; preferably soft wood.

Pencil and eraser for freehand drawing of patterns on the wood.

Needle nose pliers to change tool tips.

Workstation.

Respirator mask for safety.

Heat resistant gloves.

Paint or wood stain. 

Transfer paper.

If you are thinking about what you can turn on, whatever is normal, untreated and liberated from any completion? Most normal materials craftsmen use are: 

LEATHER:

Leather burns at a lower temperature and its smooth surface is ordinarily extremely simple to deal with. Vegetable-tanned pre-made items are promptly accessible from most art stores that incorporate belts, handbags, wristbands and so forth.

PAPER:

Watercolor paper is the most well-known for pyrography because of its substantial weight. Cold or hot squeezed paper and substantial weight will give the best outcomes. 140lb squares function admirably and help to stay away from the paper clasping under the heat of the pen.

WOOD:

The best wood for pyrography is softwoods with tight grain designs. This incorporates Basswood and Pine however Maple and pressed wood are incredible beginning stages also. Apply sand Continuously to the surface before starting to ensure a smooth burning experience.

Setting Up Your Work Area

The next step to take on your pyrography journey is setting up a suitable work area. This is a place where you carry out all pyrography activity. Make sure your work area is well ventilated to avoid inhalation of fumes produced. When choosing a workspace, you should ensure it is relatively functional, easy to access and safe. For example, you can plug the electric cord for your wood burning tool close to make room for easy movement. You can have a place to rest the hot tool when not in use and turn it off when you want to leave the room.

It is encouraged to have a ceramic tile as base for the wood burning tool due to the fire-resistant nature of the tile. Ensure you keep your kids away from your work area as well as pets (if you have).

Also ensure you follow the safety instructions which come with the tool any make sure you avoid contact with any flammable material.

How to Handle Tools

By working with a pyrograph, you are manipulating a delicate instrument that concentrates a large amount of heat at its tip. It is very important that every user has basic knowledge on how to handle their wood burning tool. This is to prevent the occurrence of accidents that can hurt the user.

Much of the safety when working with the pyrograph rests on the support that the manufacturer must include to let the instrument stand while it is being heated, cooled or as long as the user needs to set it aside for a moment. This is because placing the pyrograph elsewhere may burn the surface it uses if it comes in contact with its tip.

Safety Precautions

Pyrography involves holding an instrument that must be used with caution. So, safety comes first. The following recommendations must be taken into account:

Prevent fumes when burning wood. Burning wood can create fumes or smoke that can cause serious medical issues. To help abstain from breathing in the exhaust, work outside or in a well-ventilated region.

Medium Density Fiber (MDF) sheets contain risky synthetic substances and formaldehyde. Stains and finishes are additionally prone to contain synthetic substances that when burned can emit unsafe vapor. In any case, most professionals consider the external layer of plywood wood ok for woodburning. Plywood is made out of at least three thin layers of wood bound together using glue. If you are burning just the external layers of plywood (avoid the glue or adhesives), at that point it is a safe material for woodburning. 

Under no circumstances should you touch the tip of the tool while it is on or has just been turned off.

Always use the support that includes the purchase of the pyrograph to rest it.

It works on a resistant surface that offers comfort.

Advice for Choosing Wood

The next thing to consider when choosing tools for pyrography work is the wood to use. Wood used differs in terms of texture, hardness, grain, color etc. For example, the hardness of the wood depends on if the wood is a hard or soft wood, and soft wood burns faster than hardwood and it does not require a higher temperature like hard wood.

If your projects are on already cut designed pieces of wood or pre-fabbed, you will readily get such pieces of wood at any supplies store close to you. It will also save you the troubles of sanding the wood. 

The texture of wood used also affects the design. It is advised to avoid intricate designs on coarse textured wood.  Select the wood to be used, preferably Light-colored and softwood. This makes your wood-burning to stand out on the light-colored wood and the design will come out neater and cleaner at the end of the wood-burning work.

Also, use wood with minimal grain. The grain of the wood can make the wood-burning lines rough and difficult to complete. Wood having less grain makes it easier to draw accurate and smooth lines.

You should also Prepare the wood surface you need for the wood-burning by ensuring it is a smooth and sanded surface. Make sure you Sand off coatings that can be present on the surface of the wood.

When choosing your wood, ensure you have in mind how you want the finished design to be. If you want the design to come out nicely, ensure you use light-colored softwood having a smooth surface. Examples of softwood you can use includes; Pine, Poplar, Aspen, Birch Etc. Also make sure the wood is natural i.e. free from preservatives.

Woods that are soft can be utilized for pyrography, however a few specialists will in general incline toward woods which are somewhat progressively durable like basswood, pine, bamboo, or birch. Elm and oak hardwoods can likewise be utilized yet are normally held for progressively experienced craftsmen.

Pine – Inexpensive however lopsided grains

Birch – Smooth surface and consumes light

Basswood – Smooth surface with even grains, consumes light

Bamboo – Smooth and modest

Oak – Uneven grains, dampness in wood

Poplar – Soft grains, consumes effectively, can be expensive

Setting up the Wood

After you've picked the wood, you should set it up for pyrography. To do this, you'll need to sand the wood surface and slice it any place important to get the ideal shape. In any case, before sanding, you should check if the wood has shallow scratches on marks. In the event that indeed, you can expel the gouges by putting a wet material on the scratches and afterward put a hot attire iron on the fabric. Rehash this procedure a few times till the imprints vanish.

Picking a good Sandpaper may vary according to the wood. Assuming your wood is well-cut and has moderately a flat surface, you can use soft sandpaper to prepare it for burning. Blue sandpapers are perfect for this. They are numbered, and the less number is more unpleasant. It is smarter to utilize hard sandpaper and gradually use soft sandpaper. There are three steps to sanding a wood

To start with, clean the sandpaper 120 with a hard sanding. 

At the point when the surface of the wood is flawlessly flat, proceed with soft sandpaper, for example, a blue sandpaper 400.  

Lastly, with smoother sandpaper (of the number 800 and above) the outside of the wood would be finished.

After utilizing ultrafine sandpaper, you can apply the leather (natural) on the wood surface. Leather, similar to fine sandpaper, expels the wooden shafts that stay between the pores of the wood, giving a splendidly finished surface to the craftsman.

Ideal Temperature for Pyrography

By having a pyrograph with adjustable temperature, it is possible to carry out work on all kinds of materials, from the most delicate such as eva rubber to the most resistant such as wood. This is because the heat that must be applied to each material is different and this instrument allows us to make the corresponding adjustments. Most pyrographs of this nature have temperatures between 200º to 450º, which are appropriate for working any material.

To carry out work on eva rubber, the application of the minimum temperature will suffice. You can work between 200º and 250º, no more because the surface will surely be damaged.

If working with fabric, the temperature can be regulated between 250º and 300º, depending on the type of fabric. Test strokes can be made to achieve the perfect temperature.

When working with leather, a temperature between 250º and 300º will be enough to make pyrography of excellent quality.

Pyrography in cork can be done by regulating the temperature of the pyrography between 250º and 300º as well.

When working on wood, the temperature can be increased between 350º and 400º according to the hardness of the type so that it is being used for pyrography. The application of test strokes is recommended to find the desired temperature.

If shading is desired, the temperature should be regulated several centigrade less than for making strokes. This type of technique is especially applicable to wood and cork. To make shadows on wood, you can use a temperature between 300º and 350º depending on the type of way. While for cork, you can work between 200º and 250º.

When working with a professional pyrograph, it is very important to keep in mind that an ideal temperature must be maintained depending on the material and technique, keeping in mind that the tip must engrave on the surface without the need to press too hard. If you work with an ideal temperature, the line will be sharp and with little effort, this is what is essentially sought.

How to Hold Your Pen

It doesn't matter the brand, type of the tip, or the pen been used for a burning project; the position of your hand holding the pen determines the curves of the lines been burnt, the pressure you apply to the burn, and how long the strokes get. Your burning pen should be held the same way you hold your writing pencil or pen. When the burning pen is held correctly, your hands won't get tired quickly, and the incidence of soreness and inaccurate burns won't occur. 

To hold your burning pen the ideal way, your fingers should form a relaxed hold spread between the thumb and index finger at the tip at an angle of forty-five degrees to the surface of the burning wood. When you reduce the angle, a thick burn will result, and increasing the angle with the work surface will give you a thin burn line. 

Do not form the habit of allowing your hands to lay on the work been burnt as this does not give you the freedom to move with ease, and it affects the length of the burn lines. To attain equilibrium between your hand holding the pen and the project, your pinky finger can rest on the surface of the work and gives the pen tip a firm grip to allow you control all aspects of the movement necessary for a stress-free burning. 

It goes without saying that with a pyrography project, you will be spending a lot of time holding your pen. With this at the back of your mind, you should aim to be at ease without any form of stress building up over the hours due to a lousy pen holding habit. To get started, you need to consider critically the type of pen you use when writing with a pencil and a pen. Are you comfortable with a pen with bulk or that which is relatively light without girth? When you have sorted out this first hurdle, you can then proceed with picking a machine that has a pen with characteristics suitable to your hands. 

You hold the pyrography pen in the same fashion that you do with your drawing pencil or writing pen. However, a new variable is thrown into the mix, heat that is generated from the pen during the burning process. 

Your fingers should be at a distance from the burning tip to reduce the sensation of heat that would most likely be generated but not too far to affect the holding of the pen and the work. 

When shopping for a pyrography machine, look out for those whose pen has protective mechanisms like the finger guard or some form of insulation that reduces the amount of heat transferred to your fingers. The protective barriers give you a firmer hold on the pen. 

Another tip is to get a first-hand feel of the pen before making a purchase. You can do this by practicing with a pen your friend has or from a hardware store. This will help shape your buying decision. You should be relaxed and be one with the machine you are going to buy. The machine itself should be a reliable piece of equipment that won't be giving you any forms of problem. The pen, which is an essential part of the unit, should fit into your hands and should feel like part of your fingers. There should not be any form of second-guessing or doubting your compatibility with the pen as the eventual outcome of this relationship would be expressed in your projects. Take your time and explore all available options before buying a pyrography machine.

CONSTANT SPEED

At the start of your wood-burning experience, to keep your lines fairly regular, try as much as you can to keep your hand and the burner moving at a regular and constant speed over the surface of the wood. If the speed of the burner across the surface of the wood is not consistent, you would most likely get some lines darker than other parts of the wood. This is because the wood burner spent more time on that part of the wood compared to the other parts where your hand moved faster over. To perfect this making of consistent lines, you need to practice before carrying out any major project.

TEMPERATURE ALTERNATION

There may be a need for you to alter the temperature of the burner, depending on your choice during the burning process. If burning and you discover that the burns are too light, you will have to increase the temperature of the burner. The temperature of the burning is also dependent on the wood type and the method of pyrography that you are employing for the current project. This aspect is an indicator that your burning unit should have temperature control as it makes your job easier. If the unit is lacking a temperature control feature, you will find it hard controlling how dark or light your burn lines are. To effectively use such a unit, you will have to switch it off to cool a bit to get light-colored burn lines and switched on again to get darker lines.

Cleaning the Nibs

With time and use, it is perfectly natural for the tips of the pyrograph to wear out as they are constantly exposed to quite high temperatures. It is inevitable that over time, the tips of the pyrograph will have to be replaced. But, with proper maintenance, these parts can greatly extend the useful life. However, it is important to try to keep this part in its most optimal state because the quality of the pyrography largely depends on it.

With the use and contact with a variety of materials, the pyrograph can collect residues that are very important to eliminate, as they can affect the performance of the tips. Care must be taken when cleaning these parts, always remembering that they should not be touched directly when they are hot.

Different techniques can be used to clean the tips of the pyrograph:

With the pyrograph turned on and heated, the tip can be cleaned with a special fiberglass sponge. The sponge should be kept on a flat surface and the tip of the pyrograph passed over it, taking care to clean the entire surface. For this, you can roll the tip on the sponge. It is important to note that this is a special sponge for this type of cleaning, and it is not a common one, since it would burn easily.

Also, with the pyrograph turned on, you can use a metal kitchen scouring pad (wire hair) and run the tip of the pyrograph several times.

There are some special resins for cleaning the pyrograph tips. You can take this paste with the tip, while the tool is hot and then go through the loofah.

You can also use a small metal bristle brush including some pyrographs as an accessory with your purchase. It is recommended to clean it also while it is hot.

You can also wipe off delicate debris with a small cloth or sponge when the pyrograph is off and the tip cool.

Some pyrograph manufacturers offer cleaning kits for these tools that can be very useful. In this case, the manufacturer's instructions must be followed to carry out the cleaning in the most appropriate way.

Pyrograph Maintenance Tips

There are also measures that should be taken when handling the pyrograph to ensure that it extends its usefulness longer. Some of the mechanisms for maintaining the pyrography tips are as follows:

If the pyrograph unit has temperature regulation, it must be turned on at the minimum temperature and increase it to the desired temperature once the tip has already heated up. This will prevent the tip from melting and its useful life will be substantially extended.

Use a suitable temperature for pyrography according to the material to which the technique is being applied. Well, the ideal is that not too much pressure is exerted on the surface with the tip as this weakens it and has more wear than desired. This is one of the most important measures to consider. Improper handling of a material due to temperature will damage the tip of the pyrograph very quickly.

A little tin can be used to maintain the tips of a pyrograph. Place a little tin on a sturdy surface and manipulate it with the entire tip of the pyrograph. This will restore the shine to the tip and structurally it will become new.

Constantly remove any type of residue that has accumulated on the tip.

Make use of interchangeable tips because in this way, you do not force too much a tip but a better job is done with less effort for both the person and the tip in question.

Chapter 3    Basic and Intermediate Practice and Techniques

Straight Lines Curves Using Edges

Attach a nib to your pen, switch the unit on and adjust it to the heat preferably low to medium. Comfortably hold your pen and make sure that your hand is relaxed so as not to cause you any discomfort of affect the outcome of your work. Then, begin to draw the figures you want.

In drawing a straight line, you will want to start with using a light heat and gradually increase the heat as you go back with your line. For a beginner, you could draw a line using a pencil and go over it with your pen. The pencil line will serve as your guide in drawing the line, you can continue to do this until you get the hang of it.

Second method you can try in drawing the line is by using a metal ruler as a guide. You can lay a metal ruler on the wood where you want the line to be placed and use it as a guide in drawing your line. This makes your work easier.

You could draw lines using free hand. Free hand is done when you are not using any guides in drawing your line. You could do this by carefully burning an inch of a line then immediately back track to even out the tone. When you get to the end, you could retrace the line for added weight and constancy. Be careful not to set your burner too hot or else it could lead to over burn or that shadow halo effect.

You could draw curves in a rolling technique, where in, role your pen either side to create a curve. However, before starting, make sure that you have set the heat to low because low heat could allow you to take your time in drawing your curve. Whereas, if the heat is too hot, there is a change in speed in doing the curves.

How to Burn Letters on Wood

This method is a very good way to decorate your wood. To burn letters onto your wood, you have to prepare your surface, ensure you have the right tools, Prepare your design. Once these preparations are made, you are ready to burn letters of your choice onto the wood.

Some wood-burners come with specialty tips which are brands. They have designs on their surface that can be burned into wood. this is done by stamping it directly on the wood. They may include letters. These letter tips make your work fast and they allow you to burn quickly on to the wood. Although this is tedious, it is a very precise process. Remember you have to change each tip for every letter.

USING YOUR WOOD BURNER

To Heat up, your wood burner, plug it in and allow it heat up for a few minutes before you start using it. If your wood burner has a heat controller, make sure you regulate it to a suitable temperature. For solid outlines, the heat required is about 365°C. Light shading, on the other hand, required minimum temperature.  

The burning of the letters should be done in one single consistent stroke if you can. Once you start with a line, do not stop at any point unless when you get to the end of the letter. Some letters can be finished with one single stroke, while others require two or three strokes, which can be a combination of curves and straight lines. 

Hold your wood burner firmly and ensure you have a firm grip on the wood burner. This is to prevent it from slipping out of your hands and burn you. To get a darker area of your design, pressing down harder will achieve this goal.

To begin the burning of your letters, trace the outline of each letter using smooth and simple hand movements. For you to get consistent lines, begin each stroke at the beginning of lines within your letters and end each stroke at the end of the lines within your letters.

The next step is to fill in the letters. After outlining your letters, you have to fill them in especially if they are thick letters. Don't press too deep when filling the letters, apply light pressure simple movement. To fill in a large area, use a larger tip.

Darkening the Letters

Some of your projects may require you to fill in the letters with thick, dark lines. After the first burn, you will have to return to the letters and go over the lines with the exact pressure and fluidity you applied during the first round. When filling in the letters, the tip of the pen should be changed into a bigger one. This will make the filling faster with fewer chances of errors occurring. 

The letters burnt into the surface of the wood will look just fine, but you should go a step further by adding some flourish and other little additions to make your project stand out. These little additions will not only add artistic value to your work, but it also serves as an avenue for you to derive some form of pleasure from the whole process. To make the application of the little additions easier, bring the specialty tips into play. Brand tips come in various shapes and sizes in an almost infinite number of designs that you can add to your project.

How to Transfer the image to the Wood

There are many ways to create design on your wood through wood burners. You can do it directly if you are confident with your skill: draw your structure straightforwardly onto the surface, as light as possible for simple deleting when done. 

However, tracing the design to the wood is recommended for beginners and for those who are not confident in their drawing skills.

There are two popular ways of transferring your designs to your material. You can either trace it manually or use a tracing/transferring tool that you can avail from your wood burner seller. Below is a discussion on how to do the two ways.

Basic Tracing Technique

The common way of placing your design on your wood is by tracing it over the graphite paper. Here is how you can do it:

1.Draw or print your design in a clean white paper. Make sure to make duplicates of your original, so you can easily duplicate it when you make a mistake while tracing it.

2.Place the paper over the wood and slide a graphite paper between them. Make sure that the graphite side is on the wood.

3.Trace your design on the wood using a pencil or a pen. Press firmly to ensure that the graphite is transferred to the wood, along with your design. When you are done, remove your template and the graphite paper.

4.Darken the lines with a pencil if they are too light. Do not over darken the lines as it may become difficult to erase.

5.Use your wood burner to trace the design permanently into the wood.

6.Using the gray portion of the gray-and-white eraser, remove the graphite and pencil lines from your design. You can leave your design as it is or you can color or apply finishing on your wood.

Flexible Tracing

Tracing in curved areas of your project with just the paper and pen can be difficult. Experts usually use thin non-fusible interfacing to trace their designs on curved areas. You can buy the interfacing in sewing stores. Do not use the laminated or fusible ones because they would leave visible lines that are hard to erase.

Here are the steps on how to transfer on a curve area or wood.

1.You can draw you design directly to the interfacing. However, it is recommended that you print your design on a piece of paper and trace it on the interfacing with pencil or pen.

2.Slide a graphite paper below the interfacing. Make sure that the graphite side would face the wood.

3.Using a masking tape, attach your design to the curve area. Attach them through the border. This is not necessary, but it will help you fix the template on the wood as you trace.

4.Trace the design using a pencil or a pen. You may have to press harder because the interfacing is thicker than a regular paper.

5.Slowly peel off your template and trace your design by following steps 4 to 6 of the instructions above.

Image Transferring

This is another way of tracing a design. It is faster and easier, but you need specific equipment for it.

For this process, you would need a laser printer and the tracing tip.

Not all wood burners come with a tracing tip, but some let you buy it as an additional accessory. It is usually a flat large round tip and it is heavier than most of the tip. It acts like an iron, but you can use it to make large dark dots for your designs.

How to Transfer the Image to the Wood

1.Print your desired design or image in a piece of paper using a laser jet printer. Ink-jet printer would not work well on the wood.

2.Place the piece of paper on top of your wood. The image should be facing down. Fix the paper using a masking tape if you need to.

3.Attach the tracing tip on your wood burner. Place it on top of the paper and iron the back of the paper in a circular motion. Make sure to cover the whole paper. Repeat the process twice to make sure that the design is transferred well.

Be careful not to go outside of the paper or your wood would have burn parts.

4.Slowly remove the paper. Darken the lines that are too light with a pencil.

5.Trace your design by following steps 4 to 6 of the basic tracing technique.

TIP: If you are transferring a large image on your wood, you can use your iron instead of the tracing tip. You have to be careful, though. Iron can burn your wood and the paper if it is set too high.

Tracing with a Do-it-yourself Stencil

There is another trick on how to transfer your design to your wood. It is using a DIY stencil and a chalk. This is a cleaner trick, but has limited application. You can only do this for designs with solid and continuous designs. However, this trick is ideal if you want to duplicate your design or duplicate your project

Here is how:

Materials:

•Paper

•cutter

•double-sided paper tape

•plastic binder separator, see-through and colored

•colored chalk

Instructions:

1.Print your desired pattern on the paper. Again, this is only ideal for solid designs such as letters and simple mandala patterns.

2.Place the binder separator on top of the paper.

3.Check your design and mark the places you should not cut for your stencil. If you have a portion in the center that would fall off if totally cut, mark it with a colored pen.

4.Cut your desired pattern. Remember not to cut some parts of your marked areas.

5.Once your stencil is done, place it over your wood. Shade the cutout spaces with the colored chalk.

6.Remove your stencil and burn the areas with chalk.

Note: Be careful not to erase the chalk traces with your hands.

7.Wipe with cloth to remove the excess chalk.

The Stippling Technique

Stippling, otherwise called 'pointillism', is a kind of drawing that includes making shapes and pictures by making numerous little dabs on a bit of paper. Like making genuine 'pixels', texturing is a fascinating, though tedious, type of drawing that can be rehearsed by kids and grown-ups the same. In case you're searching for another test or only an imaginative method to put in a couple of hours, take a stab at texturing on for size. So, here is a bit by bit process in doing the Stippling Technique.

1.Evaluate the Image You Are Recreating

Despite the fact that you can positively make a textured drawing from an envisioned picture, it is a lot simpler to do as such with a printed copy to look at as you draw. Outside of figuring out where figures and articles are in the synthesis, you'll have to search for a couple of other significant components. With your drawing spread out before you, search for:

The light source and the course of the light. The light will figure out what regions need all the more texturing and what zones need less.

The estimation of the drawing. This is the place on the grayscale every one of the hues (or shades) lie - how dim or light the hues are. Worth is firmly identified with light.

The shapes in the drawing. You'll be making all the figures and items without utilizing any lines, so focus on the shapes that form the figures, and reproduce them with your texturing.

2.Decide on Your Medium

Since texturing is only the way toward making several small spots that make up a picture, you can utilize a wide range of media for making the specks. Better pointillism pieces are finished with more dabs per square inch, implying that they were made with a drawing utensil that considered extremely little specks to be made. Remember this, in light of the fact that in spite of the fact that you can use about any medium you need to make your picture, the littler the imprint that is made, the more sensible your picture will look.

3.Decide How Dense You Will Make Your Dots

Before you begin making any specks, you have to choose how thick you will draw them. A progressively itemized picture can be made with a higher thickness of spots. Remember that a picture with loads of dull qualities will require more texturing than a picture with a lot of light. Take a stab at doing a lot of specks on a bit of test paper, making various shades of dark (or hues, in case you're utilizing hued pencil) by scattering the dabs various sums. You would then be able to reference this test paper as you make your last venture.

•The higher the thickness of spots, the additional time it will take to reproduce a picture.

•If you would prefer not to invest a ton of energy into the venture yet at the same time need dim qualities, have a go at utilizing an apparatus with a bigger nib, or an alternate medium that makes bigger spots.

4.Choose a Starting Point

Taking a gander at the first picture, choose where you will start your texturing on your drawing. Normally, it is least demanding to pick the darkest point on your drawing. That is on the grounds that you have more space for botches in obscurity segments, since you can simply add more specks to conceal anything you may foul up.

5.Begin Stippling

Cautiously lift and press your apparatus (or other utensil) onto your sheet of wood. The closer you place your dabs, the darker the region on the paper will show up. Start with the darkest point, and afterward work around the picture, filling in all the dull zones. In the long run, start including the lighter regions by including spots that are dispersed further separated from one another. As you're texturing, recollect to:

•Keep all the spots equitably divided. Despite the fact that you can assemble a few spots close and others far separated, the completed work will look increasingly alluring if the specks are equally divided.

•Avoid making runs. Nothing will demolish your texturing venture quicker than including runs rather than dabs. Be mindful so as to consistently lift your pen (or other utensil) totally off the wood before slowing down it down.

•Move gradually. Speed isn't your companion while texturing. You'll be considerably more liable to make a critical error in case you're working rapidly, than if you are patient and take as much time as is needed. Texturing is a very time-escalated practice, so be set up to put numerous hours (or weeks!) into a solitary task.

6.Add in Detail

As the significant shapes show up, begin adding little specks in examples to frame lines and shapes. From far away, these specks will seem, by all accounts, to be lines. Close-up however, you'll consider them to be they truly are. You can likewise decide to start texturing your picture in an increasingly emotional example. For instance, texture every one of your spots in lines/sections or askew lines. These examples may be perceptible close-up and in the light (emptier) spaces.

7.Finish Your Project

Texturing can set aside an exceptionally long effort to finish, so don't surge your work. When, in any case, you trust you are done with your work, make a stride back and take a gander at it from far off. The genuine trial of pointillism is its capacity to make shapes and figures a way off, not exactly when you're standing close. In the event that your texturing is thick, from far away the spots should look like shapes that were drawn, as opposed to simply specks.

Shading

Shading is a significant advance that you should ace. This upgrades the magnificence of the pyrography workmanship and gives it a feeling of profundity. Before you begin shading, nonetheless, you should choose where precisely you need to shade and how darker will it be in contrast with the first plan.

The shading in pyrography is only equivalent to some other ordinary concealing procedures. To get the ideal shade, you should hold the pen and scarcely make it contact the outside of the wood. Move the pen in a round movement while keeping in touch. You ought to be coordinated and extremely cautious. This is provided that you put the pen in one spot for a really long time, you may wind up with a non-uniform shade.

How to Properly Apply Shading with a Pyrograph

To apply shading with pyrograph, the use of soft wood is recommended. This material is cheaper and easier to work with the tool. It is also recommended that the wood that is chosen has a fairly light color, this will allow you to create greater contrast in the shadows.

To make shadows with the wood pyrographer, the same principles of the drawing must be used: take into account the point of light and that the darkness of the shadow will be proportional to the number of times the surface comes into contact with the instrument.

Improving the Technique for Shading with the Pyrograph

The pyrography shader technique is the next step to mastering the layout. With the shadows, as in the case of the drawings, the pyrography will have a higher quality and will cause a greater impact; so, this technique allows to get more out of the material and the creation.

To find optimal shading with the pyrograph, it is essential to have a good pulse, practice with the instrument, time, safety and comfort when working. This technique is not a quick job, it requires attention and perseverance but well worth it.

Learn to Shade with the Pyrograph

Materials Needed

Pyrograph

Thick pencil

Design

Cloth

Wood

Sandpaper

Procedures for Optimal Shading

The first thing to do before you start engraving on wood is to sand the surface. In this way, we can eliminate irregularities to avoid difficulties in applying the technique.

The sanded surface should be cleaned with a damp cloth to dispose of the peeled material.

The design strokes must be transferred to the surface to be engraved. This transfer can be freehand with the pencil or some other technique can be used, with transfer paper for example.

With patience, make all the strokes first. Then, with the design in view, start shading. Keep in mind the direction of the light to make a corresponding shading. Shading is done by tilting the pyrograph, preferably with a blunt tip, in circular movements. This technique is identical to charcoal shading.

It is essential to keep in mind that the darkest shading is achieved with the longest exposure time from the surface to the tip of the pyrograph unit. Logically, the softest shadows are achieved through light exposure. It is not necessary to press the pyrograph too hard on the wood, what is essential is that the temperature is according.

Particular Nibs and Their Amazing Effects

BALL POINT PEN

The ball tipped pens are available in varying diameters; the smaller diameter tipped pens are used for the construction of thin lines, and the pens with a larger diameter are for the formation of more extensive, thicker lines. The primary function of this type of pen is for the filling of solid work, scrubbing, and shading. 

The Scrubbie Shading Technique

The ball tipped pen can be employed in creating short and small scrubbie strokes to bring about an equally distributed shading of your burns. To create a scrubbie, carry out a well-regulated to and forth motion with your hands for relatively straight lines, or you can also create semi-circular, closely joined together lines. The lines should be tightly packed together in varying layers to give a dark tone to that particular space. 

Fine Lines Formation

The temperature setting for this burn is of no importance as all you need to do is set the tip of the pen in a straight position to the wood surface. With this, you can create straight even lines for outlines, the accent of shading. If you make use of low or medium temperature, the lines will appear in light tones, and with a higher temperature setting, the lines will come out dark. 

THE CURVED-EDGE SPEAR SHADER

The spear shader has a bulkier tip than the curved-edge spear shader; thus, it can give thicker and dark lines without a higher temperature setting. You also get to create a light, thin burn without the formation of a dark point on the work surface, unlike when you make use of the ball tipped pen. 

With the structure of the tip, the formation of long shading strokes can be formed. You place the tip against the surface and pull slowly as the shades are created. 

THE WIDE-WIRE SQUARE SHADER

This is the tip that both beginners and professionals should have in the toolkit. The structure of the tip makes it able to shade with thick stokes faster. If you are working on a large piece of art that requires plenty of shading and filling, this tip will help you get that done in a few minutes instead of spending the whole day on the task. 

In some machines, you will find that the pen has parts that have been created to be fitted with nibs that are customized from Nichrome. To make the nibs secure into the holding parts, a screw can be used.

As you become more proficient in this art, you can look to building your specialty nib if you don't want to go with what the manufacturers have in store for you. The Nichrome wire can be bent into any shape you wish to as the project at hand demands. You can make the nib either tiny or thick to make light burns or thick and darker burns.

Texture Patterns

With the loop writing tip, you can create any type of texture pattern you desire. Hatched patterns, curls, curved lines, circles are perfect forms of textures that you can form with the loop writing tip. To make the tonal value appear light, your lines should not be too packed together, and if you want the area to appear darker, then the lines should be more tightly packed together. 

In scrubbie shading with this tip, the flat side of the pen should align directly with the wood while you draw fast short lines. The shader can be pulled up a little with the tip allowed to move quickly in creating curved shading motions.

Writing and Outlining

The outlining pattern can be added to your work to make it more attractive. A cool temperature on the pen can be used to form the lines, and then you can proceed to burn your desired style lightly. After you are through with the shading, go over the lines again, but this time making use of higher temperature to a medium temperature setting. Don't just stick to one uniform line width; alter the thickness to make your work more appealing. The project that you are working on will determine if it is to be outlined or not. In projects already containing different tones, the inclusion of outlines may not be necessary. If you are burning the image of a natural setting, then there is almost no need for outlines, or you can add very minimal lines.

Fill Texturing

To build a solid fill area, a high or medium temperature setting will be sufficient in addition to making use of a ball-tipped pen and lift and touch stokes of your hand. Closely filling the dots together will make the space appear in a darker tone. A medium temperature setting is more desirable than a higher temperature setting, as it can bring about the dot spilling and bleeding into areas you don't want it to get into.

Chapter 4    Finishing Techniques

Adding Colors to Your Designs

When wood-burning, adding some shade of colors to your work makes it more attractive and brings it to life! If you have been wood burning for a while and never added any forms of colors to your work, you have been missing out on a lot. It is not absolute that you add colors to your work, but try to envision how your next artwork would look with a few shades of color here and there. The choice is ultimately yours. 

To add some color to your work, make use of either a watercolor crayon or watercolor paint. The watercolor pencil is the best option for beginners who don't have much experience in coloring pyrography arts. On the other hand, however, if you are a pro and comfortable with coloring your works, the watercolor paint or watercolor crayon can be used. 

To begin painting your burnt design, put in a few drops of water to the crayon, and use a soft brush to mix and apply it to your work. Always wash the brush thoroughly after the application of each color before changing to another. 

Painting your work is not just about making it look unique; it is also about making use of only the very best watercolor crayon or watercolor paints. Do not cut corners when it comes to the quality of coloring materials to be used. Go for the very best in aiming to make your work look as good as possible. 

The next step is to select your color medium. You can work in a variety of colors. Take note that a wet medium like watercolor can spread outside of your design when using softwoods like pine.  

List of mediums you can use includes

Watercolor Paints

Watercolor Pencils

Acrylic Paints

Markers

Wax Based Oil Pencils or Crayons

Using Gel Paints

Wood Gel Stains

WATERCOLOR

Make sure that your watercolor is one with good quality. The variations on the surface of the wood and the density of the wood can change the outcome of the watercolor

WATERCOLOR PENCILS

Watercolor pencils are easier to control, this makes it possible to do detailed work. You need to color in the design with the pencils, after which you blend it with a water brush.

ACRYLIC PAINTS

The paint can be layered hoarsely or lightly, this depends on your project as it can be used to put over burned wood designs.  Acrylic paints also allow for different shades. It is easy to control and can be used on any wood surface.

MARKERS

Markers can be used to color your wood-burned design. they can bleed if the wood is soft, it is advisable to test it on a different wood before applying to your design, it’s very easy to control.

WAX BASED OIL PENCILS OR CRAYONS

Wax adheres to the wood better. You can apply them with your bare hands and control the depth of their colors. You can erase them using the gray-and-white eraser if you make a mistake. You can sand off the colors lightly if you want to lighten them.

If you want to blend the colors, you can simply use your fingers or cotton swabs to do it.

GEL PAINTS

Gel paints may not be as easy as the wax based oil pencils. They remain in the surface longer than regular paints. There is a higher risk that you may accidentally smudge them.

However, this trait of gel paints makes them a good material to color your wood. You have a longer time to do different brush strokes or make special effects on your designs. If you make a mistake, you can simply wipe the paint from the wood.

The problem arises when you need to add another color. The colors may blend and produce a different color than the original. But, do not fret. The remedy is simple.

Before adding another color on top of another color, use a soft clean cloth to absorb the excess gel paints. This tactic will dry the paint faster and will allow you to add new layer of colors to the wood.

WOOD GEL STAINS

Gel stains works like liquid stains, but not as runny as the latter. The wood does not absorb them too much. Thus, the grains of wood still show. The authentic wooden look of your artwork would be preserved.

Gel stains also come in different colors, which you can blend through a paintbrush.

Other color mediums include:

Pastels

Food dyes

Colored Pencils

Oil Paints

When you are done with coloring your wood burned design, you can seal your woodwork with a sealant              

To add colors to your design, you could make use of a watercolor pencil. The 24-pencil collection is quite adequate for your necessities; however, bigger assortments are accessible. When used, these pencils show up as a normal pencil would appear on wood or paper. When dampened with alcohol the colors disintegrate into the paint. Though normal color pen tints the outside of the wood, the strategy portrayed here lets the colors to infiltrate the wood filaments. 

Shade everything first with a dry pencil before dampening with a brush. To incorporate better with wood use colors that are transparent, although some might prefer intense opaque applications. After applying the hue, put some alcohol in a little dish then soak a craftsman brush (soft) on it. Normally the watercolor pencils require water, yet water will raise the grain of the wood. To avoid this, it is ideal to utilize rubbing liquor instead of water. Furthermore, the white watercolor pencil is alright for making a few colors progressively pastel, for a strong white, the best alternative is acrylic paint blended in with rubbing liquor. You can also use a gold pen paint for some projects but ensure utilize an ideal ventilation system when you make use of toxic pens.

Wood looks better when you apply some finishing. However, in pyrography, finishing can make or break your artwork. Thus, you need to know the basic on how to make your artwork standout without destroying your designs.

Finishing Technique for Pyrography

After you're finished to burn your design, you should ensure that it keeps going quite a while. This is the reason you can put on polyurethane, wood stain, or oil on your work. Prior to putting the covering, you must be aware of the shade of the covering you will apply. On the off chance that you utilize a darker covering, the concealing won't be entirely noticeable.

There are four basic ways of finishing your woodwork. You may need to do these techniques to give your pyrography project a clean look.

Wiping. Use a clean, soft, and dry cloth to wipe the dust, eraser powders or any residue from your finished work. Actually, experts suggest that you always have to wipe your work every time you finish a design or remove the traces.

If the dirt is hard to wipe using a dry cloth, you can use a damp cloth to wipe your finished woodwork. But, make sure that you wrung the cloth well and that no water drips from it.

Sanding. Some parts of your wood would be rough after you have burned it. You cannot just wipe them off. To clean those rough patches, use a fine sandpaper to smoothen them.

To do this, cut only a small piece of the sandpaper. Carefully and lightly, rub it over the portion you want to finish. Some portion of the sandpaper may touch your actual design and damage it, if you use a large piece.

Applying mineral or olive oil. A shiny woodwork gives it a robust charm. Applying lacquer and other varnish materials can give your artwork a nice shine. But it can be tricky especially if you used coloring materials in your wood.

Expert designers apply mineral or olive oil instead of lacquers. It will give your wood the shimmering effect without adding or blending any color to the wood. The oils will also help strengthen your wood and keep the color intact for a long time.

Applying lacquers and shellac. Applying layers of lacquers and shellac can lighten the burned color of the wood. If you want an authentic wood appearance for your artwork, applying these finishing materials can be the trick. Experts suggest darkening the burned designs, if you intend to use them.

Shellac and lacquers also toughen the wood, making your artwork last longer. The best way to apply them on your finished pyrography project is through spray on, especially if you used colored pencils and gel paints. Using the brush would smear the colors.

Using Finished Wood as the Base

Plain wood is not the only material you can use for woodworking. You can also add pyrography designs on painted and finished woodworks. A colored background can give a nice touch to your wood-burned project.

It can be tricky and a bit dangerous, especially if the wood used inflammable material as finishing. Hence, when adding or using finishing materials to your pyrography work, you should consider these tips:

Use water-based tint. Some designers finish their base wood with water-based tints. You can do this by diluting dyes on the water and apply it on the wood using cotton balls or soft cloth.

The dye would tint the wood, but will not cover the grains. It is safe, non-flammable and does not omit fumes when burned. However, it takes a while before you can use the wood for your project.

The wood would absorb the water and it would be difficult to burn your design over it. You need to dry the wood for 2 to 3 days before you can use it for your project.

Use water-diluted glaze. Another safer material to finish your wood before starting your pyrography is the acrylic glaze. You can make this by diluting the acrylic paint on water.

The portion of water and paint varies depending on how thick you want your glaze would be. Add more paint if you want your glaze to cover most of the grains. The glaze will omit fumes when you burn your designs. However, you do not need to dry your wood for a long time.

Thinner glaze would result if you add more water than paint. It would work like the water-based tint. Thus, you may need to dry the wood for a few days before you can start with your project.

When using oil-based finishing material, work your woodwork in an open and ventilated space. Oil-based finished woods will cause fumes when burned. It can suffocate you if you are working in a closed space. Also, oil-based materials are inflammable. It might create fire when burned. You can easily control the fire and lessen the damage if you are working in an open area.

Be wary of the carbon deposit in your wood burner. Burning in a finished wood makes your tips store carbon faster. Thus, you should always clean your tips after a few minutes of burning.

Chapter 5    Pyrography Ideas and Inspiration

Imagination and Skill are Essential

In itself, pyrography is a very striking technique and can become an art, it is just a lot of imagination and a little skill. What is embodied in the material is what really makes it worth seeing. The question arises where to find the inspiration to draw with a pyrograph.

To get some ideas, you just have to have a little imagination and review some work already done, many of them can be found online. However, it is enough to reflect a little about the use and functionality of the product you want to design.

Pyrography Patterns

A pyrography design is essential for you as a good painter. Regardless of whether you have enough design proficiency, you can get more models by seeing pyrography patterns. You will require a suitable design to begin. This design will change as indicated by your taste. It is ideal to pick an easy pattern to start, since as opposed to the underlying impression of individuals, pyrography craftsmanship is significantly more difficult, and in case you pick a difficult pattern, you will before long be worn out from doing that. It's smarter to follow this workmanship bit by bit.

When I started with pyrography, I chose the picture of a small house with the background of rolling hills. You don't necessarily have to go with this design as there is an almost infinite amount of designs that you can choose from. In the beginning, you can work with relatively simple black and white works. As you build up your skill levels, you can introduce more sophisticated approaches in shading and color applications. 

You might be a bit confused about which design to work on.  You can go online and search for illustrated images in black and white, "wolf black and white illustration," "clouds black and white illustration." " flowers black and white illustration," "skyscraper black and white illustration." The design you choose to burn will be correlated to your skill levels in pyrography. Go with relatively simple designs as you start, designs that have more straight lines, a few curves, and some shadings or no shadings at all.  Here some designs you can start with:

You have now picked a design, and getting the right size to burn on a piece of wood will be the next step. The size of the design should be able to fit in comfortably into the piece of wood you have available. In case you want a design burnt onto a piece of wood, and you don't have the appropriately sized wood on ground, you might have to reduce the size of the image and if that is not an option, then ordering for the size you want will be the next logical step.

Wood Burning Tricks

We all need tips and tricks in life to perform certain tasks easier. We have added basic tips you can use to have a smooth pyrography process.

•       TEST – Before embarking on a pyrography project, it is encouraged to practice on a sample piece of wood.

•       DON’T RUSH- don’t rush a pyrography work, proceed gradually.

•       Try out different accessories especially tips before you start your project.

•       Work in layers to save time.

•       Erase light mistakes using razor blades or sand paper by lightly scraping off the mistakes.

•       Give a distance from stroke marks when shading an area.

•       Burn the framework of your structure when you are recoloring.

•       Ensure you do not press too deep when using the wood burning tool.

According to Uses

Every product that is produced has a functionality, from aesthetics to pragmatics. By being clear about what function the product will fulfill, the ideas to decorate it will come easily. Some of the functions and ideas that can be considered for pyrography can be named below:

Cup Holder

Every house or business greatly appreciates the cup holders. They can be made of materials such as wood or cork. Among the most popular ideas for decorating this product, you can name ideas that are set in style such as chess pieces, program personnel, cards, zodiac signs. They can also be all the same with logos, brands, badges. The possibilities are endless. You can also use words, tribal or any kind of abstract design.

Cushion Covers

In this case, the pyrography material is necessarily the fabric and the possibilities are endless. Some popular designs of this type of product are flowers, birds, words, trees, butterflies, cats, mandalas, leaves.

Bracelets

These pyrography products are widely used. They are usually made of leather and depending on the space you can make drawings such as hearts, words, flags, tribal, geometric designs and more.

Cookware

Wooden kitchen utensils like pallets and cutting boards are an excellent surface for pyrography; all creativity can be poured here. For small utensils, you can make designs with dots and patterns, arrows too. While with wooden cutting boards, the possibilities are limitless: coffee mugs, wine glasses, poultry, cheeses, flowers, tribals, trees, ties, fruit and much more. Wooden cutting boards are a perfect canvas for pyrography and any drawing will be great there.

Decorative Objects

Products with an aesthetic function such as paintings or table decorations are excellent for pyrography, usually made of wood and the designs can be very varied: trees, branches, flowers, birds, fish, elephants, tribal, geometric designs, wolves, landscapes and even Pictures.

Keychains

These are small objects but very conducive to this type of artistic detail. In them, you can capture anchors, hearts, flags, insignia, names, names of cities, letters, flowers, silhouettes, tribal and much more.

Clothes Hooks

Yes, wooden clothes hooks can also be designed, both small and large for clotheslines. Although the space is limited, small drawings can be made such as patterns with stripes or dots, small flowers, branches, leaves.

Photo Frames

On photo frames made of wood, you can draw tribal, geometric patterns, trees of many styles, words, feathers, flowers, butterflies, fairies and much more. There are many other products that can be decorated with drawings similar to those already mentioned. For example, pendants, key holders, leather flip diaries, leather wallets, musical notes.

According to Occasions

Products can be made with pyrography for specific events, special dates or seasons and make the drawings according to the theme.

Birthday

The envelopes of invitations for children's birthday parties can be perfectly made of eva rubber with pyrography decorations: flowers, names, decorative figures, hearts, balls and more.

Valentine's Day

To celebrate this day, you can make products with hearts, arrows, cupid, flowers, bows and more.

Christmas

To decorate the spaces, objects such as tree decorations, cup holders, paintings and more can be made; with designs reminiscent of the time: snow, snowmen, canes, stars, Christmas trees, candles and more. 

Chapter 6    Make Your Own Gifts

Wooden Bangle

Materials:

Pre-made bangles made with unfinished wood

Sandpaper

Large round tip

Non-fusible interlining

Masking tape

Graphite paper

Pencil

Gray-and-white eraser

sandpaper

Any template fit for round designs

Lacquer or shellac

Olive or mineral oil

Direction:

Choose the size of your bangle. You can find them in woodcraft stores. They come in different sizes, shape, and thickness. Prefer the ones made with bamboo because they are more flexible.

Sand the bangle from inside and out. You have to keep the inside part smooth, especially if you are using a material made with bamboo.

Spray some lacquer or shellac on your bangle. Let the bracelet dry for at least a day.

Print the design on a piece of paper. Using a carbon, trace the design on the interlining material. Place the interlining material on top of the graphite and carefully tape it on the bracelet.

Trace the design using a pencil. Press the pencil lightly, so that you will not damage the finishing. Just repeat your strokes to darken the graphite lines.

Burn the design lightly at the beginning and choose the parts you want to darken later.

Carefully erase the graphite lines. Wipe the bangle with a soft dry cloth to remove the residues. Make sure that you remove the sticky residue from the masking tape or paper tapes.

Wipe with mineral or olive oil using a cotton bud. Let it dry for another day before using.

Note: You cannot use the transferring tool to transfer your design when you have already applied the wood with shellac or lacquer. The heated portion might become darker.

TIP: You can also apply color to the design. Just omit the application of shellac or lacquer.

Also, you can apply water-based tint or glaze to the wood instead of the shellac or lacquer to change the color of the wood. Make sure that you dry your wood well, though.

Bamboo Adjustable Bangle

Materials:

Premade unfinished bamboo bracelets

Bendable flat steel wire

abaca or wool thread

beads

glue gun and glue stick

shading tip

small round tip

shellac or lacquer

Sandpaper

small saw or cutter

pliers

Direction:

Cut an opening in the bamboo using the handy saw or cutter. Sand the ends and the rest of the bracelet.

Heat the shading tip. Use it to make leafy vine in your bracelet like this one below:

The shading tip has the shape of the leaf. Thus, it would be easy to create it. Just avoid the curves or you can use the small round tip to finish the leaves near the curves. Use the small round tip to create the stems or carve your name.

Spray or brush evenly with lacquer or shellac. Dry for at least five hours.

Insert the flat steel wire in the hole of the bamboo rings. Bend the tip of the wire into a slight curve when you insert to make it easier.

Pull the wire to at least 2 centimeters when it comes through the other end. Using the pliers, curl the wire to the inside and make a round hook. Secure the end of the wire by soldering it with the small round tip. Repeat the same step on the other end of the bracelet.

Cover the visible parts of the wire with the abaca or wool thread. Use the hot glue to secure it neatly.

Make 2 pieces of braided strings with the length of about 1.5 and 2.5” inches. Insert the 1.5” string to an end. Tie and secure with the hot glue.

Insert three beads that are about half an inch in diameter to the other braided string. You can unbraid the string if it is impossible to insert on the beads. Secure one of the ends of the beads. (Tip: You can use nylon strings for this.)

        Tie the other end of the beaded string to the remaining round hook in the bracelet. Secure it tightly and neatly with the hot glue.

Wooden Earrings

Materials:

2 pieces of hard wood twig

1 piece of plain, flat plastic button, at least 1cm in diameter

Push back earring stud

Ball point or small round tip

Gel paints Shellac Pencil

Graphite paper

Sandpaper

Eraser

Chisel

Glue gun and glue stick

Direction:

Cut the hard wood twig into 1cm thick.

Trace the size of the plastic button on the wood. Add a half-centimeter allowance to the size of the button. Draw another outline.

Using a small chisel, cut the wood according to the traced outline. Sand the pieces until they are smooth. Wipe with soft clean cloth.

For a simple design, divide the chips into two equal parts. Draw a dark line at the center. Draw diagonal lines from the center at the bottom half. Leave the upper half untouched.

Color the upper part with a gel paint. Leave to dry for at least two hours. Spray with shellac. Dry for another two hours.

Attach the wood chips to the flat buttons evenly. Secure with the hot glue.

Attach the button to earring stud using the hot glue. Do the same with the other button.

TIP:  Another simple design would be simple flowers. Just draw a flower outline and color it with wax pencil or gel paint.

You can also use the shade tool to draw 2 to 3 connecting leaves, 5-petal flowers, or a cloverleaf, if your chip is big enough. 

Varieties:

You can use the same technique to add wood-burned buttons to accessorize your dresses. Simply attach the wood chips to the flat buttons after you have sewn it on your dress. However, make sure that it could still fit the buttonhole.

You can also insert a thread or thin metal chain on the button before you attach the wood chips. You can tie this on the zipper of your clothes to add a dangling accessory.

Your Home-Made Candle Holder

This is ideal as a wedding gift.

Materials:

2 pieces of 2.5” by 6” pallet, about ½ to ¾ inch thick

Wood glue

Wood sealer

Sandpaper

Woodburning tips

Pencil  

Graphite paper

Eraser

Colored wax pencil

Olive oil

Small scented candle, about 1.5” to 2” in diameter, placed on a tin cup

Direction:

Sand both pallet until they are smooth in all sides. Wipe with soft cloth.

Take one of the pallets. Divide it into three equal portions horizontally. On each portion, place your scented candle in the center and measure the diameter.

Using your wood burner or a cutting tool, cut the hole on the first pallet. Sand the sides of the hole.

Place the pallet on top of the other pallet. Glue them together with wood glue. You may need to clamp them tightly to make them glued harder. Sand the whole block again and wipe with cloth.

Trace any border design around the holes if you want to burn design around it. You can use the patterns from the clock project.

On the sides of the candle holder, you can write the names of the spouses and the date of their marriage. Design it with simple hearts or tiny flowers.

Add some colors to your side design using gel paints or wax colored pencil, but do not add any on the designs on top. Adding paints and wax on your design might cause fumes and ruin the scent of the candle.

Brush or spray with olive oil.

Note: Olive oil is ideal for these projects. Adding shellac or other finishing might cause fumes when the candles are lit.

Place the candles inside the hole.

Wall Candle Holder

This is for taller candles and it needs to be mounted on the wall.

Materials:

1 piece 4” by 7” wood pallet, ¾” thick

2 piece 4” by 4” wood pallet, ¾” thick

Wood glue

Wood burning tips

Olive oil

Sandpaper

Screws

Direction:

Sand both wood pallets and clean with dry, soft cloth.

From the bottom of the 7” wood plank, measure 2” and mark it with a line. Darken the line if you need to.

Trace a border design. Your border design should only be 4”x5” in size.

Burn your design. Add some colors if you would like, but you have to use a candle that does not touch the back side of your holder. Set aside.

Take the two pieces of 4” wood. Follow the steps 1 to 4 but skip the part where you have to divide the pallet.

Choose the back side of the 4” square. It is the one to be glued to the other pallet. Mark it.

Sand the sides. Trace and design a border similar to the ones you used for the other pallet. Color it, if the other pallet was colored.

Spread wood glue on the 4” block and attach it below the line you created in the 6” pallet. Press it hard to keep it in place.

Using an electric or manual screwdriver, screw the attached candle holder in place. You need this to ensure that the holder can hold the size of your candle.

                     Burn or drill a hole on top of the 6” pallet.

                     Spray with olive oil and let it dry for at least 5 hours. Hang it on the wall and place a candle.

The Perfect Chef Gift

Materials:

4 wooden mixing spoon or a mix of 2 spoon and spatula

1 rolling pin with handle, about 12” in length (the length of handle not included)

Electric drill

Wood burner

Sandpaper

Wood glue or hot glue

Wood burning tips

Pencil

Graphite paper

Eraser

Non-fusible interfacing

Wax colored pencil

Thick string

Direction:

Sand the spoons and the rolling pin until smooth.

Take the rolling pin and divide it into 4 equal sizes. Divide only the rolling area. Do not include the handle.

Find the middle of each division and mark it with a point.

Take a wooden spoon. Trace the end of the handle on the point you made. Give at least a 1/8-centimeter allowance. Drill a hole from the point all the way to the other side of the rolling pin. Do the same with the other points.

To ensure that your hole would be straight, tape your rolling pin using a masking tape to keep it secure while you drill. You may also ask a nearby hardware or craft store to do it for you.

Sand the rolling pin again.

Print a “I love” design on a piece of paper. Make sure that it could fit the front side of your rolling pin. Place some heart, cake or flower design before and after the letters.

Transfer your pattern to the non-fusible interfacing, if you need to. Trace it with graphite paper and burn using the wood burner tip that is comfortable for you to use.

Color your design with wax colored pencil. Spray with olive or mineral oil and hang to dry.

Print a design for each letter of the word “CAKE” on a piece of paper. make sure that the letter could fit the head of the spoon or spatula, with a room for additional design.

                     Transfer your design to the front of the spoon. Use a non-fusible interfacing if it is difficult to trace on the curves.

                     Burn your design and color it. Let it dry.

                     Insert each of the spoon on the holes provided in the rolling pin. You can choose to let the handles stick out on the other hole or not.

                     Glue the spoons using a wood glue or stick glue. Let the glue dry for at least 2 hours.

                     Sand the edges of the holes if there is visible glue. Spray with another coat of oil and let it dry.

                     Tie a string on the handles and hang the rolling pin on the wall.

TIP: You can choose to let the end of the handles stick out on the other side. Then, hide it with tiny and colorful chef hats made of cloth.

You can also cut parts of the handles to make the spoons uneven while hanging. 

Variety:

You can change the “CAKE” to “Cook” and change the “I love” with “I love to”. Then, instead of chef’s cap, you can use spice bottle caps to hide the ends.

If you are giving this as a gift and your recipient has a four-letter nickname or name, you can change it to “Best Chef” and add the name to the spoon.

You can add holes for two more spoons, but you may need to adjust the heights of the other spoon to make them fit.

Cake Decorating Turntable

 Materials:

1 piece 12” round wood (birch), ¾” thick

1 piece 10” round wood (birch), ¾” thick

Lazy Susan bearing

Gel paints

Screws

Pencil

Graphite paper

Wood burning tips

Sandpaper

Drill

Clamps

Direction:

Sand both wood. The edges should be smooth.

Divide the smaller wood into four equal quadrants to find the center. Attach one of the lazy Susan bearing in the center. Secure with screws.

Rotate the unattached part of the bearing, so that the position of the bearing would be two intersecting rhombuses. Mark the holes of the unattached bearing on the wood. Drill holes on the wood.

Place the smaller wood on top of the bigger wood. Insert a thin pencil or pen in the holes until you touch the larger wood. Mark the bottom wood.

Remove the smaller wood. Drill holes on the mark in the larger wood, but do not go all the way. A depth of about ¼” inch would do. Sand the wood again and wipe with soft, dry cloth.

Turn the larger round wood upside down to make your design.

Copy and enlarge the design below. Trace it in your wood and burn it.

Erase the remaining graphite lines using an eraser. Wipe you wood with soft cloth. Do not apply any oil or finishing.

Place a soft cloth on your working table. Turn the large round wood face down. Place the smaller round wood on top of it. Make sure that the screw holes on the upper bearing are on top of the holes on the large round wood.

                     Rotate the small wood until the holes matches the screw holes and the hole in the round wood.

                     Insert a ½” inch screw on the holes and screw the upper bearing to the large round wood tightly. You can use the clamp to keep the wood together.

                     Turn your turn table around. Wipe the large round wood and place a cake.

Wooden Door Tags

This door tags are great for dorm rooms.

Materials:

5” x 7” flat wood, birch or basswood

Gel paints or wax colored pencil

Saw or chisel

2 small ring hooks

2 Small J-hooks

String or thin clothesline rope, about 8” in length.

Universal tip

Small and large round tip

Sandpaper

Masking tape

Graphite paper

Pencil

Eraser

Mineral or olive oil (optional)

Cushion tote bag (see instruction below, optional)

Direction:

Find a drawing of a shirt. It can be with or without sleeves. Enlarge or reduce it to fit the wood. Trace it over the wood.

Using the saw or chisel, cut the excess wood from your design. Sand the sides and all the surface of your wood.

Burn the outline of the shirt using a large round tip or the wide angle of the universal tip. Do it on both sides.

Trace the words “IN” and “OUT” respectively on the center of each side. Burn the outline and color with gel paints or wax colored pencil. You may also shade it using the shading tip.

Copy a logo of a famous fashion brand or any design in paper and trace it above or below the words.

Burn the logo or the design.

Add color to the design.

Erase the remaining traces and wipe with soft cloth. Apply with mineral oil, if desired.

Screw the two ring hooks on the center of the shoulder part of the shirt. Tie the ends of the string on each hook.

                     Screw the J-hooks on the bottom edge of the shirt. They should face each other. Use these to hang your cushion bag.

                     Hang your tag at the door.

Customize Your Key Fobs

Materials:

A few pieces of hardwood with fine grain, such as oak and maple, cut into different shapes with ¼” thickness (The ideal size is 2” diameter for round designs or 1.5”x 2” for rectangles.

Small round tip

Universal tip

Small steel ring, about 1 cm in diameter

Keychain rings and chain

Graphite paper

Colored wax pencil

Pencil and gray-and-white eraser

Pliers

Directions:

Sand the surfaces of the wood with sandpaper. You can choose to keep the side unfinished or you can peel and finish it.

Divide the wood into 2 equal parts with your pen and ruler. Burn the top center portion using the small round tip. Press the tip a little harder until you create a hole. Make sure that the hole is big enough for your steel ring.

Make your template. Measure the size of your wood. Give a ¼” inch allowance from the hole.

Using a printer, print the word “Keys”, or “Home” in the piece of paper. Make sure that the font size you use can fit into the area of your wood.

Trace the template on the wood using the graphite paper, along with your border design, if you desire.

Burn the letters using the guide. The calligraphy or razer tip is preferred if you want to keep your keychain plain. If you want to add color, trace the outline and burn it. Fill the inside of the letter using your colored wax pencil.

Erase the guides. If you are adding colors, erase the guides after you burn the outline.

Wipe the wood with soft dry cloth. Be careful not to smudge the wax pencil. Blow on the hole to make sure that nothing blocks it.

Using the pliers, cut an opening on the steel ring. Insert the steel the ends of the ring on the hole. Attach the key chain. Close the gap of the steel ring with the pliers.

    Use it to hold your keys.

TIP: You can buy the keychain rings and the steel rings in craft stores.

For the wood, you can cut some branches in your tree or gather some firewood. Cut them into your desired shaped. 

You may also use small pre-shaped unfinished wood available in craft stores.

For the designs, you can change the letters into drawings.

Variations:

From this technique, you can make many different pyrography projects. Here are some ideas:

Necklace. Attach a long chain instead of the key holder. Make sure that the chain can slip right through your head.

Pet Collar pendant. Use a smaller dimension of wood, depending on the size of your pet. Trace and burn the name of your pets. Do not add color as gel pains and wax pencils can be unhealthy for your pets. Shade your design using the calligraphy or shading tip.

Clip the pendant on a plain collar necklace and wear it on your pet.

Name tag. Trace and burn a name or initials on the wood instead of the proposed design. Insert a beaded ball chain, as shown below on the hole. Attach it on your bags, wallets or anything that needs a tag.

Chapter 7    Wooden Toys

Your Own Domino

Materials needed:

30 pieces of 1” by 1-½” wood

Small and large round tip

Sandpapers with fine grain

Cotton balls

Mineral or olive oil (optional)

Colored gel paints (optional)

Ruler and pencil

Gray-and-white-eraser

Direction:

Sand each wooden piece. TIP: You can buy a long plank of birch wood and request the handyman to cut it in the sizes you need. You may also buy it from specialized crafts stores.

Using your ruler and pencil, divide the top surface of the wood into 4 equal parts.

Place the small round tip on your wood burner and wait until it heats up. Using the pencil guide, burn the horizontal line on each piece. Repeat until you reach your desired darkness.

Using the picture above, draw or trace the guides on the wooden pieces.

Use the small round tip to draw in squares that requires three or more dots. Use the large round tip to draw the "1" and "2" squares. Darken the dots if you do not desire to add any color.

Erase the pencil guides on the pieces.

If you desire to add color, lightly sand the surface of your wood and wiped it clean. Using the gel paints and a small tip Chinese brush, color the dots and let it dry completely.

Dip a cotton ball in a small amount of olive or mineral oil. Wring the cotton thoroughly to remove the excess oil. Brush the oil on each of the domino cards.

Arrange the domino in a screen sheet or flat strainer to dry. After a day or two, remove the domino and use it.

Wooden Alphabet Blocks

Materials:

7 pieces 2x2 wooden cubes

Wax pencils or gel paints

Olive oil

Calligraphy tip or universal tip

Small round tip

Laser prints of the alphabet and number 0 to 9. Add another set of vowels and another piece of zero.

If you plan to color your blocks, use prints that will allow you to trace the outline of the letters. If you are not using any, use fonts that are more or less 1” in size.

Sprayer or cotton buds. 

Direction:

Sand the wood cubes. You can buy these cubes at crafts stores.

Using your pencil and ruler, draw a border on each face of the cubes.

Burn the borders using the small round tip.

Using your laser print outs, transfer or trace the letters on the wood. Place 4 letters (at least 3 consonants and 1 vowel) and two numbers. Make sure not to place similar characters on each side of the cube. You can do this by block.

Using a calligraphy tip, simply follow the letters using the wide side of the tip, if you want a rustic look on your block.

If you want your blocks to be colored, trace the outline of the characters using the small round point. Sand off the block lightly before adding the color of your choice.

Place some olive oil in a sprayer and apply on the blocks.

Wipe the blocks with a soft cloth or cotton buds. Skip this if you are using wax pencils.

Dry for at least a day before playing.

Tic-Tac-Toe Game Set

Materials:

1 piece 7” x 10” rectangular or 10” round birch chopping board,

9 pieces 2” round wood, about ½ inch thick, use square pieces if you desire

Calligraphy tip or universal tip

Shading tip

Gel paints, optional

Pencil and ruler

Lacquer or shellac

Gray-and-white eraser

Olive oil

Direction:

Sand or wipe the chopping board. You can find them in kitchenware department.

Using your ruler, divide the chopping board in four equal parts. From the center point, measure 1.5” inch above and below the point. Mark it. Use it as a guide to draw two 10” horizontal lines.

From the center, measure 1.5 on each side. Use this guide to draw two 10” vertical lines. Make sure that each box should at least have 3” perimeter.

Using the calligraphy point, trace each line using the wide side. Repeat to darken the lines.

Erase all the pencil traces and wipe the board with soft dry cloth. Sand it, if necessary.

Using a fine brush, apply shellac or lacquer on the board. Set aside to dry.

For the chips, begin with sanding off all the sides of the chip. Using a pre-made template of “x” and “o”, trace it on the wood. Your marks should at least be 1” big. Burn the marks with the calligraphy or universal tip. Make 3 pieces of each mark.

To add design to your chips, change to the shading tip and apply shading on the edge of your chips. You can also shade only one type of mark to give it a different appearance from the other.

Erase all the traces of the pencil.

    Brush olive oil on the chips. Dry it off. Use it with the tic-tac-toe board.

Puzzle

Materials:

2 piece 8” by 8” birch wood, 1/2 inch thick

printed template of a cartoon character

Gel paints

Mineral oil

Shading point

Small and large round points

Graphite paper

Sandpaper

Pencil

Direction:

 Sand the surface of the wood.

Using the printed template, trace the character on one of the wood planks using the pencil and the graphite paper.

Draw the outline of the character using the round tips. If you have a laser wood burning pen, you can use it instead. Darken the lines slightly.

Change to the shading point. Apply some shade outside of the outline. It is to make the image stand out after you apply the colors.

Color your characters using gel paints. Dry your wood for at least 2 hours.

Flip the board upside down. Using a pencil, divide the wood into 16 blocks. You can do this by drawing four equal horizontal and vertical lines.

Using the lines as the guide, draw some wavy lines over the straight lines. Use these wavy lines as a guide to cut the board

Sand the sides of each puzzle chip to give it a smooth finish. Apply olive oil on the sides, if desired.

Place and assemble the chips on top of the plain birch wood to reconnect your drawings.

TIP: To avoid damaging your drawing when cutting the puzzle chips, bring your finished artwork to the hardware store. Some has tools to cut wood into desired shapes. They would cut it for you for a small fee.

Spinner Toy

Materials:

1 piece 2” round wood, about ¼ inch thick

Red gel paints

Sandpaper

Small and large round tip

Shading tip

24” inch string of any color

Olive oil

Direction:

Divide the wood into 4 equal quadrants using a pencil and a ruler. Place two dots near the center point. Give at least a ¼” distance between the dots.

Using the small round tip, burn the dots to create two holes.

Further, divide the round wood into 8 equal parts using the pencil and the ruler. Trace the lines using the small or large round tip. Avoid burning over the hole.

Trace the edge of the round chip using the shading tip to give your button a border.

Color the slices alternately with the red gel paint to create a red and brown wheel.

Dry for at least two hours. Brush with olive oil and dry again overnight.

Insert the two ends of the string on each hole. Pull it and tie the ends.

Place the wheel on the center of the string. Pull the ends with your thumbs. Roll the string rapidly until the string tightens on your finger.

Stop rolling and pull the string on opposite sides to make the button spin on its own.

Chapter 8    Home Decoration, Ideas and Project Instructions

Decorative Plate

Materials:

3 pieces round bamboo or birch boards with the diameter of 9”, 7”, and 5”. Make it at least 1.5” thick. (You may also make them in uniform sizes.)

Large round tip

Small round tip

Water-base tint, optional

3 Ring hooks

2 pieces 5” long steel chain with the thickness of at least ¼”

Mineral oil

Graphite paper

Sandpaper

Pliers

Pencil

Compass and ruler  

Direction:

Sand and wipe your wood until smooth. Apply the water-based stain on your wood. Let it dry for at least three days, if using. You can find these plates in special stores and kitchen departments. They are usually used to serve bread and wines.

Look for mandala patterns in the internet. You can copy and enlarge this picture:

Remember that the diameter of your pattern should be 2” smaller than the size of your plate.

Trace the patterns using the graphite paper and pencil or you can iron a laser print on the wood.

Burn the lines using the round tips. You can make one row lighter and the other darker to give it a nice gradient design or you can go dark all the way.

Screw a ring hook on the top center of your plates. Connect the plates according to their size using the metal chain. You can choose to go from the smallest to the biggest or vice versa.

Hang the plates in between your windows. You may also remove the metal chains and hang the plates horizontally.

TIP: Using the same technique, you can also create square or rectangular designs.

Amazing Door Handler

This wall décor will make entering your home or any room of your house enjoyable.

Materials:

Birch wood planks, at least 8” square

Small round tip

Large round tip

Shading tip

Calligraphy tip

Gel paints or wax colored pencil

Shellac or lacquer

Sandpaper

Printed patterns

Pencil

Graphite paper

Eraser

Direction:

Sand and wipe the wood until smooth.

Spread your hand on the plank and trace it with a pencil. If you want to add your partner’s, your child’s or your pet’s hand, trace them over your hand.

Using the small round tip, burn the outline of your hand or your family’s hands. Wipe with a cloth.

Print a design geometric or any design in paper. Place it on top of the wood. Make sure that it covers the largest hand outline. Slip a graphite paper under it and trace.

Starting for the most outside hand, burn the traced design, but do not exceed to the hands inside it. Wipe the wood clean after you traced the design.

Leave the secondhand outline clean. Do not place any design on it except for the name of the owner, if you decide to place it.

Burn the design that covers the next hand.

TIP: If you only trace two hands, you can start burning from the inside hand. Leave the bigger hand clean. Then, using the shading tip, shade the outside area of the bigger hand to make it stand out.

Erase the traces of graphite from the wood and wipe it with a soft, dry cloth. Carefully sand the untouched areas, if necessary.

Brush with lacquer or shellac if you did not use any coloring materials. If you did, spray with mineral or olive oil instead.

Decorative Bowl

Materials:

Unfinished symmetrical bowls, about 8” in diameter

Small rounded tip

Shading tip (curved shading tip, if you have one)

PencilGraphite paper 

Non-fusible interfacing

Eraser

Masking tape

Mineral oil

Sandpaper

Direction:

Sand the bowl with the sandpaper, both the inside and out.

Make two copies of the template below using a Microsoft PowerPoint or a similar application. Arrange the copies so that it will appear continuous. Print and enlarge or reduce to fit the middle of the side of the bowl.

Trace the template on the non-fusible interfacing. Transfer the template using the graphite paper to the outside of the bowl. You can secure your template and graphite with a masking tape. You might need to repeat the patterns to cover the whole bowl.

Using the small rounded tip, burn the design. Rotate the bowl in a slow motion with one hand as you design it with your other hand. Repeat the lines if you want it to be darker.

Erase the remaining lines of the graphite paper.

Change the tip into the shading tip and burn all parts that need shading.

Erase the tracing lines. Wipe all of the sides of the bowl with a soft cloth.

Brush all the sides with olive or mineral oil. Let it dry for at least 5 hours.

Place it on your living room to hold your keys or letter.

TIP: You can also make small bowls to hold your small stuff around the house.

You can also make a salad bowl with the design. Just do not put the design inside.

Your Own Wall Puzzle

Materials:

Beech or birch wood, about 17” by 26”

Small round tip

Calligraphy tip

Razer tip

Shading tip

Sandpaper

Pencil

Graphite paper

Masking tape

ruler

Double-sided tape

Mineral oil

Direction:

Sand the surface of the wood and wipe it dry.

Print and enlarge a design that can fit the surface of the wood. Give at least a 1” margin on the wood.

Trace the design into the wood using the pen and the graphite. Darken the outline with pencil if necessary.

From the top edge of the wood, measure 8” vertically. Mark it. From the same point, measure 8” horizontally.

From the end of the lines, leave a 1” space. Then, measure another 8” vertically or horizontally. You would have to make an outline of six 8”x8” boxes with a 1” interval.

Using a saw, carefully cut the 8”x8” squares. Set aside the 1” excess for other projects. Make sure not to erase the outline of your design.

Sand the sides of the squares until smooth and neat. Wipe with soft cloth.

Start tracing the outlines of the designs. Color it if you desire or shade it using the wood burner.

Brush with mineral oil or olive oil and let it dry for at least 2 hours.

                     Attach a double-sided tape on the back of the squares. Paste them on your walls with 1” interval from each other.

TIP: You can make a 4-piece large designs or 9-piece small designs, depending on how you want your walls covered. You can also make it into round pieces instead of squares.

Wooden Keepsake Box

Materials:

1 unfinished box with a flat lid, round or rectangular

Sandpaper

Wood burner points (small round, large round and calligraphy)

Pencil

Graphite paper

Lacquer or shellac (optional)

Direction:

Sand the unfinished box, especially the top lid. Wipe with soft, dry cloth.

You can copy and enlarge the pattern below:

Trace the design to the flat lit. If you are using a round lid, you can look for a round design or simply draw the design as it is.

For this project, it is recommended that you use the laser paper and ironing technique. Since it is a pure black design, you may need to know which pattern needs the flatter or rounder lines.

Burn the design. If you can control the calligraphy tip for wider lines, then use it so you can burn your design faster.

Remove the remaining lines of the graphite paper or the laser ink. Wipe with soft cloth.

Apply lacquer or shellac, if you desire.

Tip: You can apply darker stains on the borders of the lid to make your design in the center stand out.

Wooden Wall Clock

Materials:

18” by 14” basswood, ½” thick

Bezel Clock movement

Shaft for a face with the depth of ¾”

Pre-made clock hands, if you do not want to use the one in the movement set

Small round tips

Calligraphy tips

Gel paints

Water-diluted acrylic glaze (optional)

5” x 12” metal sheet

Sandpaper

Pattern for a clock dial (optional)

Pattern for the center design

Pencil

Graphite paper

Screwdriver

Eraser

Compass

Nails or wood glue

Mineral oil

1 piece 1.5”x14” wood, 1 inch thick (optional)

Direction:

Sand all the surfaces of your wood. Apply the glaze if you intend to use a colored background. Make sure to dry your wood and work in a well-ventilated space if you do.

Divide the surface of your wood vertically. Mark with a pencil lightly. From the top edge, measure seven inches. Mark it with a dot. That would be the center of your clock. The hands will go there. Drill a hole on it.

Using a compass, draw a 10” diameter circle. Divide it into 4 quadrants. Then, divide each quadrant into three equal parts. This will be your guide for your dial.

From the center, draw an 8” diameter circle. This is where your design would go.

Copy the design below and enlarge it to fit your inner circle.

Trace the design on the inner circle of your wood. Burn it. Using the razer tip or calligraphy tip would be best. However, if you still find it difficult to control, use the large and the small round tips, instead.

Color your design. For the atom, covering the inside with white and outlining the inner lines with red would be good.

For the flower, covering the inside with pink and outlining the lines with white would be good. Color the center with yellow.

Note: The suggestions are only for unfinished wood.

Type and print the number 1 to 12 in the font you desired. Since we are making a teenager clock, the comic sans font is ideal. Make your font at ¾” big.

Using the dial guide, trace the numbers on their respective places and burn them.

                     Erase all the remaining lines with an eraser.

                     Burn borders, such as the ones below, around the clock if you desire.

                     From the bottom edge, measure 1.5 inch. Do the same on the right-side edge. Mark with lines.

                     Print or trace the word, “Reminders” on a piece of paper vertically on the space in the right side. Make sure that the font does not exceed a 1” in width and 4.5” in length. Burn all the letters or you can burn the outline only.

                     Spray the wood with mineral or olive oil. Let it dry for at least five hours.

                     Attach the metal plate next to the word reminder using wood glue or nails.

                     Sand the 1.5”x14” wood. Burn a hole in the middle for hanging.

                     Attach the bezel movement in your clock. You can simply follow the instruction from the package.

Make sure to attach your hands on a 12 o’ clock position before tightening the knobs. Test the movement of your clock by comparing it with an old clock. If it does not move in the same pace as the old clock, you may need to tighten or loosen the washers.

                     Hang it on the wall.

Wooden Pallet Art to Furnish Walls

Materials:

15 pieces by 2”x24” wood pallet

Wood glue

Nails

Brown colored varnish

Shellac or yellowish colored varnish

Large round point

Universal or calligraphy tip

Small round tip

Shading tip

Sand paper

Pencil

Graphite paper

Eraser

Direction:

Sand each pieces of the wood pallet until they are smooth at the front and the sides. Wipe with dry cloth.

Apply a dark brown varnish to 6 pieces and apply clear shellac or yellowish varnish to the rest.

Spread a linen on the floor and arrange 12 pieces of the pallet in a row. Alternate the color of the wood. The smoother surface should be facing down.

Lay the remaining three pallets on top vertically. The distance between them should be equal.

Using a nail gun, nail the top of the three pallets. You may also use wood glue.

Note: Using an actual hammer can make the pallets crack. If you think your pallet wood is strong enough, then use a manual hammer.

Apply wood glue on the side of the first pallet and attach the next pallet. Make sure that you do not spill any glue on the front side. Repeat the step until you finish gluing all 12 pieces.

Completely glue or nail the three vertical pallets to the finished pallet floor to keep the pallets in place. Let the glue dry.

Meanwhile, copy and enlarge this photo or any photo you desire. You may have to use many papers during printing and puzzle it during tracing.

Trace the pattern on the wood. It would be a little difficult because of the tiny spaces between the pallets. Burn your design in a well-ventilated space.

                     Wipe your work with a clean, soft, and dry cloth. Brush with two coats of shellac and let it dry for half a day. Hang it.

Wooden World Map

If you have the time, you can make this wall décor bigger to fit the back of your office desk or at least a third of your wall.

Materials:

1 piece 1.5ft by 2ft. plywood, at least ½” thick

Calligraphy tip

Shading tip

Gel paints

Letter stencils

Sandpaper

Pencil

Graphite paper

Masking tape

Metal stencil of letters

Outline of the map of America or any country

Water-base stain (optional)

Direction:

Sand the surface where you want to draw the map. Wipe it dry. Stain it, if you desire.

Enlarge the outline of the map of America to fit your wood.

Using a masking tape, attach the printed map guide to the wood. Slip graphite papers under it. You can do this by piece or by state.

Burn the outlines using the wide stroke of the calligraphy tip. Darken it if your do not intend to color the inside of the state.

Using a metal stencil, draw the code of each states on the middle of their area. If you do not have the metal stencil, you can get trace them using the graphite paper and pencil.

Burn the letters. It is recommended to keep them in burned fonts and not outlined to make the décor more appealing.

Using gel paints, color the areas of each state. You can use their official colors, if you like.

If you want to have a raw wood finish, decorate the area by shading some parts in different level of darkness. Make sure that it will not overshadow the letters and that you are not using a color-stained wood.

Erase the graphite lines and wipe the surface with dry soft cloth. Brush with mineral or olive oil.

If you are going with the all-wood theme, you can apply lacquer or shellac with brush. Do it evenly.

Coat Rack

Materials:

4 pieces pallet wood, 2” x 14” with ¾ inch thickness

2 pieces 4” x 2” pallet wood, with ½ inch thickness

6 to 7 sticks 3”in length and about 1 cm thick

Wood glue

Drill

Wood burner tips

Screws

Sandpaper

Pencil

Graphite paper

Eraser

Shellac or lacquer

Direction:

Sand the two 14” pallets. Arrange in a row on the table covered with soft cloth. Smooth side facing down.

Place the two 2”x4” pallet on the two ends of the 14” pallet. Glue one of the 14” pallets on the smaller pallet. Apply wood glue on the side of the longer pallet and the bottom side of the 4”. Attach the other 14” pallet. Secure with glue.

Clean the smooth surface.  On the top pallet, trace the word “COATS” according to the font you desire. Add some border or design on the edges. You may also use this:

Color your design or leave it as it is. Spray with shellac or clear lacquer.

Take the two-remaining pallet. Add glue on one side of one pallet and stick it to the other. Glue them tightly. Let it stand for about an hour. You can design the other part while you wait.

Sand the fused pallets thoroughly and wipe with soft, dry, cloth.

Using a drill or with the help of a local handyman, drill 6 to 7 holes on the side of the slab of wood. Do not drill it all the way to the bottom. Drill only until the 1.5” mark. Make sure that the sticks could fit your hole.

Make some designs on the stick with the help of your shading tip. Just draw some leafy designs on the stick.

Insert the stick on the holes and secure with wood glue.

                     Trace a design on the front of the coat hanger such as this:

                     Color it. use the wax pencil crayon, if desired.

                     Spray with two coats of shellac or clear lacquer. Let it dry for at least 5 hours.

                     Apply some glue at the back of your coat hanger and attach it to the other parts. Secure with screw.

                     Drill holes on the top edge of your coat hanger and hang it near your door. You can screw it on your walls or door if you like.

Decorative Easter Eggs

Use these eggs to decorate your home during Easter Sunday party or you can just use it as a regular floor décor.

Materials:

Unfinished solid egg-shaped wood with flat bottoms (available in wood craft stores)

Sandpaper

Wood burner tips

Gel paints

Mineral oil

Non-fusible interfacing

Graphite paper

Pencil

Eraser

Direction:

Sand the egg until smooth. Wipe with soft cloth.

Print and enlarge any of the designs below and transfer it to your egg using the interfacing and graphite paper.

If it is hard to make the continuous design, you can draw your own templates, such as simple flowers or geometric designs and connect them with wavy lines.

Burn the outlines of the design using the small round tip or any appropriate drawing tips.

Erase the remaining traces of the graphite paper and wipe your egg with the clean, soft cloth.

Apply the gel paint carefully and gradually. Start with light coating to avoid any dripping paint. You may need to make your egg lie down as you apply. You also need to dry the gel paint for a while before you can turn the egg and paint the other side.

This may take a while depending on the design you chose and the size of your egg. You can use wax color pencil instead, but it may not give you the solid look.

Dry the egg for at least 5 hours before spraying with oil, lacquer, or shellac.

TIPS:

Convert this décor into a candleholder. All you need is to screw a candleholder on top of the egg. If you cannot find a premade one, you can make an improvise candle maker. Here are what you need:

1 small muffin tin

1 flat-head screw, about ¾ inch in size

Paint

Electric screwdriver (optional)

Finished egg project (the top part can balance the muffin tin)

Paint and design the outside of the muffin tin. Let it dry.

Mark the center of the muffin tin and the top center of your egg. Screw the muffin tin on the egg.

Place your candle inside the muffin tin.

Note: Do not pain the inside of the muffin tin because it might create fumes when the candle reaches the bottom.

You can also change the egg design with a round ball and use it for sports or Christmas parties.

Vase Holder Made from Bamboo

You can ruin your woodwork if you let it retain water for a long time. Hence, a wooden vase is almost impossible. But you can try this trick:

Materials:

Unfinished bamboo with a bottom, (choose one with a diameter of at least 3” to 4”) or you can get a tumbler shaped wood

Wood stains (optional)

Gel paints (optional)

Shellac or lacquer

Wood burner tips

Graphite paper

Pencil

Non-fusible interfacing

Leaves (preferably with a complex shape)

Sandpaper

Paper

Masking tape

Eraser

Bottle or tumbler that can fit the bamboo

Direction:

Using a paring knife, scrape off the outside layer of the bamboo. Sand the outside and the top rim of the bamboo. Sand also the inside that you can reach. You do not have to sand it up to the bottom.

Wipe the outside and the inside with soft cloth. You can choose to use colored water-based stains to color your tube. But, make sure to observe safety.

You can apply stains and paints on the inside of the bamboo.

Trace the leaf on a piece of paper and copy the veins of the leaf. Retrace the pattern to the non-fusible interfacing.

Place the non-fusible interfacing on your bamboo tube with the tip of the leaf facing the rim. You can place it vertically or diagonally. Slip a graphite paper and secure with a masking tape. Trace

Burn the pattern. Wipe the bamboo with clean cloth to remove the carbon.

Shade or design using other wood burning points or color it with gel paints or wax colored pencil.

Spray with mineral oil or olive oil, if you used a stained wood. If not, you can spray it with lacquer or shellac.

Insert the bottle or the glass inside the bamboo. Fill it with water and arrange your flowers.

TIP: It would be more appealing if your flowers near the rim do not have leaves. This is to emphasize the leafy design on the wood. Place the flowers with leaves on the center of the bouquet instead.

Small Wooden Pot

Materials: 

1 2”x 4” birch wood

1 2”x4” oak or any darker shade wood

Wood glue

Wax colored pencil

Small round tip

Calligraphy tip

Sandpaper

Wood sealer

Pencil

Graphite paper

Eraser

Mineral oil or shellac

Cactus plant in temporary pot

Direction:

Place the two woods together. You can choose which goes on top. Glue them using a wood glue. Cut the pointy edges if you want.

Using a chisel or an electric drill, carefully make a hole that is about 3” in diameter on the block. You can also go to a hardware store and ask them to do it for you for a fee.

Sand the whole block, including the hole. Wipe with soft dry cloth.

Apply a wood sealer on the hole. If you do not have a wood sealer, you can heat the glue stick with a glue gun. Carefully coat the sides and the bottom of the hole of your pot. Do not leave any hole.

If you are using a wood sealer, allow it to dry completely before doing your exterior design.

Choose a design that you want on the exterior of your pot. You can personalize it by tracing your name on the pot.

Apply gel paints or wax colored pencil on your design according to your preference.

Spray with mineral oil or shellac.

Dry for at least 5 hours before transferring your cactus plant in the pot.

Note: Do not drill a hole on the bottom of your pot. Just water your plant lightly.

TIP: You can also place a regular plant on this pot, but you have to hang it and drill a hole on the bottom of your pot. Do not place it on a flat surface or the stagnant water will rot the bottom of your pot.

You can also use scrap woods or pallets for this project. Just stack and glue the pallets tightly and use it instead of the wood blocks.

Cozy Birdhouse from Gourd

Materials:

1 unfinished dry gourd

Large and small round tips

Gel paints, (brown, yellow green, and green)

Wax pencils

Lacquer

Olive or mineral oil

Thick string

Compass

Screwdriver

Sandpaper

Eraser

Wax paper

Masking tape

Direction:

Find a gourd that has the same shape as an avocado, like the one below:

Draw a 3” circle on the bottom part of the gourd using a compass. Make the picture above as a guide as to where you could draw the circle.

Attach a large round tip on your wood burner and burn the circle all the way to the inside. When the cover of the hole is about to fall inside the gourd, place a handle of the teaspoon or a stick under it to prevent it from falling.

You might find it difficult to pull it out if it falls in.

Remove the cover and clean the inside. Use the screwdriver to loosen the inside of the gourd. Remove it with a spoon or tap it out of the gourd.

Sand the gourd, including the rim. Sand the inside only up to your reach.

Spray lacquer or black wood stain on the inside of the gourd. Let it dry for at least a day. Place it in a ventilated area for a faster drying time.

Make another circle about 1 cm away from the circumference of the hole. Burn lightly. Do not cut it.

Using a pencil, roughly divide the gourd in half, vertically.

From the outside circle in the middle of the gourd, measure about ¾-inch and draw a little avocado. Just follow the shape of the gourd. Burn it with a small round tip.

                     From the line dividing the gourd, measure about a centimeter towards the circle. Trace the shape of the gourd. Burn it using a large round tip.

                     Color the small avocado in the center with brown wax pencil. You do not need to color it solidly.

                     Draw some lines on the seed part using a yellow or green wax pencil. Lightly blend it with the brown color using a cotton bud

                     Using a gel paint, color the layer next to the seed with light green gel paint. Let it dry.

                     Draw some lines using the light brown and green wax pencil. Blend it on the green background with a cotton bud.

                     For the backside, you can burn a crisscross pattern from the outline of the large avocado and color it with green or light green.

However, if you want it to look a bit authentic like the fruit, you can shade the bottom of the gourd using a shading tip, until about 1/3 of the back portion. The, shade about an inch or two from the stem portion of the gourd.

Shade some light lines randomly on the remaining portion of the back.

Color it with green gel paints and dry.

                     Cover the front part (the part with the hole) with a wax paper. Secure it with a masking tape.

                     Spray or brush about 2 to 3 layers of lacquer on the back portion. Remove the wax paper and let the birdhouse dry for about 5 hours.

                     Spray the front part with olive or mineral oil.

                     Tie a strong string on the handle and hang your birdhouse in your garden.

Gourd Bottle for Wine and Tea

Ancient Chinese use gourds to place their wines and drinks. You can make your faux antique tea set with this project.

Materials:

Dried bottle gourd with a similar shape as the one below:

Calligraphy tip

Small and large round tip

Gold and red gel paints

Non-fusible interfacing

Graphite paper

Dull pencil

Eraser

Braided red threads, about 1.5 centimeter thick

Cork rod

Sandpaper

Wood shot glasses (optional)

Direction:

Sand your gourd carefully and thoroughly. Pay attention to the curves. Sand the inside only up to where you can reach.

Note: If your dried gourd is not cleaned, you can get the seeds out using a long screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver in the opening and carefully scrape the sides of the gourd.

Tap the gourd to spill the insides of the gourd. Drop some small pebbles or a scoop of uncooked rice or bean in the gourd. Shake it hard, but carefully. Tap the pebbles, rice, or bean out. These three are great tools for brushing and cleaning the inside of the gourd thoroughly.

Using a scouring pad and warm water, remove the molds and dirt in the surface of your gourd. Be careful not to scratch the skin.

Dry it with a rag and hang it dry for at least a day.

Apply lacquer or shellac and dry if for at least 2 hours.

Copy this print below and transfer it to a non-fusible interfacing. Trace it on the bottom portion of the gourd.

Use a dull pencil to draw to avoid puncturing the gourd.

Do it on two or four opposite sides.

On the top portion of the gourd, trace the outline of this character, which means wine in Chinese.

Burn the woods. Use the calligraphy or universal tip for outlining the Chinese Character. Follow the wide and the thin stroke of the letter. Use the round and other tips for burning the grapes design.

Note: You are using a finished wood. It may create fumes, so you better work on a well-ventilated space.

Erase the remaining graphite paper and wipe the wood with soft cloth.

Color the inside of the outline of the Chinese character with red gel paint.

Lightly trace a diamond shape on the character, but do not burn it. Paint everything inside the diamond with gold, avoiding only the wood burn pattern and the red colored portions.

For the grape design, use red colors for the grapes, but make a blot of gold in some of the fruits. Paint the leaves and the spaces between the outline of the branches with gold.

                     Let it dry for at least 5 hours.

                     Tie the red braided strings on the waist of the bottle. Roll the ends of the braid with masking or plastic tape with gold or brown.

                     Cut the cork rod to fit the opening of the gourd.

                     Place your bottle gourd on a wooden tray, which you can also design. Arrange 1 to 2 wood shot glasses beside it.

TIP: Where to buy dried bottle gourds: You can buy dried bottle gourds with different shapes in craft stores that specializes in woodwork or stores that sells materials for bed houses.

Workbench

This table is a good gift for dressmakers and craft makers. They can place it on top of a table or lay it on the floor. They do not need to bother holding the meter sticks or rulers when measuring.

Materials:

1¼ meter x 25 inches plywood, at least ½ inch thick (you can make it longer if you want)

Universal point

Small round point

Compass

Lacquer

Sandpaper

Pencil

Eraser

Meter ruler

Cork board (4”x6 or 5”x7” in size)

Wood glue

Ruler

Eraser

Direction:

Measure one inch from each corner and connect with lines. Using the lines as the guide, cut the edges into curves.

Sand the surfaces and the sides of the plywood until smooth. Make sure that it has no rough patches.

Place the meter stick on the top portion of the plywood. Start from the line you traced before for cutting the edges. Trace the numbers and the lines in inches.

Move the meter stick on the bottom portion and trace the numbers and lines in centimeters.

Trace the 12-inch ruler, in inches and centimeter, on the other sides of the tabletop.

On the left side ruler (the one with inches) write 0” next to number 6 and trace another 12” ruler across. You will end up with perpendicular lines measuring 1 foot each.

If you plan to give this to a dressmaker, you can draw rectangles for the neckline and sleeves guides. Start with 2”x 4” until you reach 6”x8”

On the top right part of the tabletop, measure 10 inches from the right corner. From there, draw an 8-inch line diagonally. Make sure that the angle is at 45 degrees. The end of the line will be the center of your circles.

Using a compass, draw circles starting from 2.5-inch ratio until you reach 4 or 4.5 inch. This will serve as the guide for the crafter when he needs to make circles. Write the number in diameter inside the circle.

Burn the numbers using the small round point. Use it also for the main lines indicating the inches or centimeter.

For the millimeters and other measuring small lines, use the fine point portion of the universal tip. If you have a fine-point tip, you can use it. Use the same for outlining the circles and the rectangles.

                     Erase the remaining pencil lines and sand the board lightly.

                     Coat the whole board with lacquer or shellac at least twice. Let it dry.

                     On the right bottom corner, glue the corkboard. This is optional, but recommended. You can pin the patterns, guide, measurement and other things you need when measuring.

TIP: For an exclusive dressmaker tabletop, you can draw the basic bodice pattern with different measurement on one side and the basic pants pattern on the other side. Since the tabletop is removable, the user could just rotate it when he needs to copy the pants or bodice pattern.

Faux Antique Jar Made from Gourd

This jar is a good project for oversized dried gourd.

Materials:

Dried Kettle gourd, choose one with a narrow tip

Oak leaves or any leaves with wavy outline

Drawing of a bunch of acorns

Brown leather dye or stain

Black enamel spray paint

Masking tape

Non-fusible interfacing

Foam brushes, about 1 inch wide

Light brown stains

Shellac or clear lacquer

Pencil

Graphite paper

Paper- Small round point

Direction:

Cut the tip of the gourd to create an opening. You can choose how wide your opening would be.

Clean your gourd.

Sand your dried clean gourd all over. Sand the visible parts of the inside only.

Wrap the rim of the gourd with a masking tape. Paint the inside with the black enamel paint. Let it dry thoroughly or for at least 5 hours before removing the masking tape.

Trace the leaf on a paper.

TIP: Oak or maple leaves are ideal for this project. Transfer it on the non-fusible interfacing and trace it again on the gourd with the graphite paper.

Overlap some leaves. Place some of them diagonally or vertically, but not horizontally. Also, make sure that the tip of the leaves is towards the bottom of the gourd.

Trace the acorn the same ways as the leaf and transfer it to the gourd. Place the acorn only near the rim of the jar.

With your small rounded point, burn the leaves and the acorn design.

Coat the outside and the rim of the gourd with the leather dye or paint. Use foam brushes. Make sure to wear gloves and mask to avoid any injury.

Dry the gourd completely outside or use a hair dryer.

                     Apply light brown paint on the leaves. Use darker brow for the body of acorn and olive-green paint for the cap.

                     Using a black leather die, darken the veins of the leaves and the outline of the design.

                     Leave it as it is, or you can paint the rest of the gourd with black leather dye. Let it dry.

                     Seal your work by spraying a thin coating of clear lacquer or shellac. Dry for about 2 hours and spray it with another coating.

                     Arrange artificial flowers and make it as a centerpiece or display it as it is.

Cushion Bag

This is optional. You can use this as your mailbox, when you leave you are out or when you do not want to be disturbed by any deliveries.

Materials:

2 pieces 16” by 14” strong fabric.

1 piece 16” by 14” fiber fill or cushion lining

Threads

Scissors

1 piece 1.5” ribbon, about 2 meters long

2 pieces 0.5” ribbon, about 3” each

Velcro tape, about 5” inchesHot glue, optional

Sewing machine, optional

Direction:

Slide the fiber fill or cushion lining between the two fabrics. If you are using printed fabric, make sure that the wrong side faces the cushion lining.

Sew the edges of the layered fabric. Give at least a 0.5” allowance from the edges.

Fold the rectangle at the center. The printed fabric should be on the inside. You can choose to make it a tall, narrow bag or a wide, short one.

Sew the sides of the bag. Just sew over the stitches you made before. Leave the top open.

Flatten the bottom corners of the bag and make an isosceles triangle. Sew the base of the triangle. Cut the remainder of the triangles but leave a 0.5” allowance from the base.

Hide all the edges by covering it with the 1.5” ribbon. You can sew it or attach it with the hot glue.

Fold the bag in the middle and mark the center. Attach the Velcro tape on the center of the bag. You can sew or glue it.

Stretch the bag in front of your door tag to know where the J-hook should go. Mark the spot.

Fold the 2 pieces 0.5” ribbon in half to make a loop. Sew them tightly on the spots you marked. You can secure them tighter by adding hot glue.

                     Hook the loops on the door tag.

TIP: You can make a smaller one of this project and use it to organize your stuff in your room or your sewing room. Make bigger ones with a car or an airplane design to organize toys.

You can also change the shirt design to a plate design and use it in your kitchen. Just trace a different label on the center.

You may also make one in your bathroom. Change the cushion tote bag to a plastic tote bag. Use a plastic material that can handle hot glue.

Conclusion

You have reached the end, and so it means that you have finished all that there is to know about pyrography for beginners. I hope that through reading this book, you are more inspired to explore the world of pyrography.

Pyrography is a superb expertise to learn. In spite of the fact that the underlying strides to this fine art are the equivalent for a wide range of individuals, there are hardly any particular things that novices, DIYers, and experts need to know.

The beginners in this field of craftsmanship should realize that pyrography requires a ton of skills and practice to ace. It won't occur without any forethought, so he/she should practice this workmanship normally. Alongside training, he/she needs to think pretty much all the kinds of wood that can be utilized for this workmanship and which is progressively reasonable. The wellbeing concerns must be followed, and the apprentice must be additional mindful when he/she is working with the pyrography pen.

In pyrography your imagination is the limit! One of my colleagues is passionate about a space-related theme, and he is burning awesome detailed artwork. Another one was interested in bikes and engines, and now he specializes in burning motorbike related pictures.

Another point is taking care of your health and following safety measures. This is very important as this art consist of heat and irritation related issues. A few basic things we can always do is wear gloves and masks, work in an open and well-ventilated area, and use some fume /smoke extractor.

In case of any irritation, immediately consult a professional.

I hope that you enjoyed reading this guidebook and I hope it inspired you to create more projects through the art of pyrography. After learning all the basics on pyrography, it’s time for you to continue to work on your techniques. Continue to practice and you will see the improvement soon

I wish you all the best for your first project and your many more projects to come!