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eBook ISBN: 978-1-62347-210-8

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THE MASTER’S GUIDE TO HOMEBUILDING

FOREWORD

As a master homebuilder and teacher of homebuilding courses at Lone Star College in Houston, Texas, I still enjoy building custom homes and continue learning every day. I found out many years ago that the best way to learn is to teach.

I wanted to write this book because I have seen and heard about many folks who wanted to be their own builder. Unfortunately, because they lacked the inside information, many of them failed in the attempt. In many cases, it cost them a lot more money. In some, it cost them their marriage. These things do not have to happen to you.

Building your own home can be a very rewarding experience. If you stay focused, develop a working knowledge of each phase of work, and think like a homebuilder, then there is no reason why you cannot wind up with a well-built home. Having said all that, it would be disingenuous by not telling you that there are hundreds of ways of screwing it up. I teach my students how to stay out of trouble, and now I want to teach you the same. It is possible to have your home completed with your sanity, finances, and spousal relationships still intact.

Figure 1- The author

In writing The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding, I wanted the average person who may know very little about homebuilding to be able to pick up the book and start learning what to do and when to do it. You need to start thinking more like a homebuilder and less like a bystander. This way, you will get the home built the way you want it, and maybe even open up the door to a new career. In any event, you are going to have many family memories.

WHO IS THIS BOOK INTENDED FOR?

The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding is for people who want to get their home built right or want to be their own homebuilder. You want the knowledge. You want to know what it is about homebuilding that the builder should know. It is for homebuilders, construction managers, and superintendents that want to add to what they already know. Maybe you want to get into the homebuilding business. Whatever the reason, this book is your key to unlocking the door of homebuilding knowledge.

Maybe you are going to have a home built for you and want to be knowledgeable of the things that the builder should already know. This is a great way of keeping them in check when necessary.

I have run across hundreds of people in my career who think they know what homebuilding is all about. The truth of the matter is that they may know just enough to get in trouble. You must set aside your preconceived ideas of what you think you know versus what you actually know. This is a business where “what you don’t know can hurt you.”

Obviously, no one book can begin to explain to you every infinite detail of every conceivable possibility. What this book does do is to give you a solid base of knowledge that you can make informed homebuilding decisions with. The book is not designed to keep you from doing your share of thinking. NICE TRY THOUGH !

Folks who are in homebuilding will profit from reading this book. I have met numerous homebuilders over the years. Most were good, well-intentioned individuals, but they lacked a lot of core building knowledge. These builders generally knew the concept of homebuilding, but had not learned enough to master the total program. They wind up repeating their mistakes over the years. When they continually make the same mistakes, then it is inevitable that they will continue making the same problems for the homebuyer. The buyer could pay a heavy price for the builder’s lack of knowledge. All these builders have to do is set aside what they think they know and be open to learning more about their industry.

Every person who wants to build a home should remember this one simple truism: “In the beginning, the builder has the experience, and you have the money; after the home is built, you have the experience, and the builder has the money.” Everyone who is in the homebuilding market wants to have a quality-built home. The trick is in knowing firsthand that you are getting it when you should be getting it. This has to be determined in a timely manner. Finding out after the home is built that the foundation was not constructed properly is not good timing.

This is where The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding will become your invaluable resource. Here are some of the topics you will learn about in the following chapters:

Land purchasing and construction loans

Budgets and specifications

Estimating costs

Blueprints and contracts

Descriptions and explanations

Allowances and change orders

Finding good builders and subcontractors

Paying contractors and suppliers

Formulating contracts

Supervising the work

Managing a homebuilding operation

I will also provide you with general pricing information specific to my area. Since pricing is not standardized throughout the country, it may be necessary for you to make adjustments to the examples. I will provide you with the unit of costing and methodology of estimating. The process of how to estimate will be with us for years to come. In addition, please note I use the terms you, the homeowner, the buyer, and the builder interchangeably throughout the book.

This is not a lightweight, superficial book. This heavy-duty workbook will become your best reference source for homebuilding. Keep it close by you for ready reference. Do not take any unnecessary risks or shortcuts.

This book provides the home buyer/builder with the information needed before starting out on this venture. The path to completion is wrought with perils. Bypassing any of these important steps could cause your thoughts of a dream home to become a nightmare. Stay on course and you will be on your way to building that dream home.

For help with questions you may have as you progress through your project, visit http://www.mastersguidetohomebuilding.com you’ll see optional support packages to fit your needs.

I hope you enjoy the information contained in The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding and wish you good luck and God speed with your homebuilding experience.

—S. Earl Thompson

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1 PRELIMINARY DECISIONS AND ACTIONS PRIOR TO HOMEBUILDING

Drop-dead budget

Credit reports including glossary of credit terms

Appraisals including glossary of appraisal terms

Construction loans including glossary of mortgage loan terms

Land acquisition

Land development

Chapter 2 PLANS AND DESIGN ISSUES

Introduction and photos of different home styles

Importance of blueprints

Involvement in design process

Should you buy ready-drawn plans?

Should you use a designer or architect?

Their field experience in construction

Their knowledge of construction costs

Your input into the design process

Best approach to starting plans

Compliance with building codes

Fundamentals of the plans

Stair issues

Future attic space conversion

Wheelchair accessibility issues

Future elevator issues

Chapter 3 DESCRIPTIONS AND EXPLANATIONS

An expanded explanation of each construction category

Chapter 4 SPECIFICATIONS

How to develop construction specifications

Chapter 5 BUDGETS

Budget introduction

Budget costs

Budget forms

Budget cost summary

Chapter 6 CONTRACTS

Contract introduction

How to find builders and subcontractors

Contract explanations

Different types of contracts

Sample turnkey contract

Chapter 7 SCHEDULING

Introduction

Construction scheduling forms

Blank scheduling form

Chapter 8 SUPERVISION

Introduction

* Scheduling ordering alerts * # Construction category #

* 1-Site evaluation

* 2-Survey

* 3-Soil testing

* 4-Blueprints and foundation design

* 5-Building permits

6-Tree removal site clearing

* 7-Site fill and rough grading

* 8-Access road

* 9-Culvert installation

10-Preliminary site layout

11-Temporary power

12-Water well including glossary of water well terms

13-Construction water

14-Basement excavation including glossary of excavation terms

* 15-Shallow foundation dirt work inc. glossary of site-grading terms

16-Concrete pumper truck

* 17-Drilled piers

* 18-Toilet facilities

19-Barrier fencing

20-Trash container and debris removal

21-Job site security

22-Foundation construction including glossary of foundation terms

* Foundation forming

23-Underground plumbing installation

Shallow foundation excavation

* 24-Under-slab termite treatment

Radon barrier

Moisture barrier

Foundation steel installation

* 25-Under-slab electrical installation

16-Concrete pumper truck

Concrete operation

Perimeter drainage system

26-Foundation grading

27-Framing includes the following subcategories:

* Framing lumber including glossary of framing lumber terms

Floor framing including glossary of floor-framing terms

Support steel

Floor decking including glossary of floor-decking terms

Hurricane straps and clips

* Wall framing including glossary of wall-framing terms

Stair framing including glossary of stair terms

Ceiling framing including glossary of ceiling framing terms

* Roof framing including glossary of roof-framing terms

Wall sheathing

Housewrap

Fireplace insert framing

Windows including glossary of window terms

* Exterior doors including glossary of door terms

Skylights including glossary of skylight terms

Special exterior columns

Siding

Window shutters

Cornice framing

* Roof decking

* Roof underlayment

28-Garage doors

29-Fireplace inserts including glossary of fireplace terms

30-Septic system

31-HVAC rough-in including glossary of HVAC terms

32-Sewer line

* 33-Water line

* 34-Plumbing rough-in including glossary of plumbing terms

* 35-Roofing including glossary of roofing terms

Roof ventilation

36-Central vacuum rough-in

37-Electrical rough-in including glossary of electrical terms

* 38-Entertainment wiring rough-in

39-Security wiring rough-in

40-Exterior painting

41-Framing termite treatment

42-Insulation including glossary of insulation terms

43-Drywall including glossary of drywall terms

* 44-Cast-stone installation

45-Brick installation including glossary of brick terms

Brick information

Brick preparation

Brick supplies

Brick labor

46-Stone veneer includes the following subcategories:

* Natural stone installation

Manufactured stone installation

47-Stucco installation including glossary of stucco and plaster terms

48-Flatwork

49-Special concrete finishes

50-Flashing installation including glossary of flashing terms

51-Special metalwork

52-Wrought iron including glossary of wrought iron terms

53-Finish carpentry includes the following subcategories:

* Cabinetry including glossary of cabinet terms

* Interior doors including glossary of interior door terms

Stair assembly including glossary of finish stair terms

Mouldings including glossary of moulding terms

* 54-Interior painting including glossary of painting terms

55-Floor tile installation including glossary of floor tile terms

56-Wall tile installation including glossary of wall tile terms

* 57-Other tile installation

58-Countertop installation including glossary of countertop terms

59-Vanity top installation

60-Tub surrounds

61-Shower surrounds

62-Fireplace face and hearth

63-Wallpaper installation including glossary of wallpaper terms

64-Faux finishes including glossary of faux-finishing terms

65-Wood floor installation including glossary of wood floor terms

66-Carpet installation including glossary of carpet terms

67-Other flooring installation

* 68-Glass block installation

69-HVAC finish

70-Plumbing finish

* 71-Electrical finish

72-Glass enclosure installation

73-Mirrors and miscellaneous glass installations

74-Finish hardware installation

75-Central vacuum finish

76-Garage door openers

77-Elevator installation including glossary of elevator terms

78-Entertainment system finish

79-Security system finish

* 80-Contractor punch lists

81-House cleaning

82-Final yard grade includes the following sub-category

83-Gutters and downspouts

84-Final debris removal

85-Fencing

86-Sprinkler system

87-Drainage system

88-Landscaping

Chapter 9 POST-CONSTRUCTION ISSUES

Walk-through inspection list

Warranty, bills paid disclosure

30-day post–move in completion list

Comparison photos

Chapter 10 MANAGING A HOMEBUILDING OPERATION

Final comments

Credits

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CHAPTER 1

PRELIMINARY DECISIONS AND ACTIONS PRIOR TO CONSTRUCTION

When it comes to homebuilding, most people do not have the foggiest idea of what to do first, second, third, etc.

These steps are in chronological order based on my experience of over 40 years. Many of the decisions you make now will have a profound impact on how successful the homebuilding experience will be.

DROP-DEAD BUDGET

Let us start with one simple question: How long do you plan on living in the home? Why do I ask that question first? The answer is simple. Many decisions that you and your spouse are going to make concerning your home should be prefaced by this question. Decisions like how expensive of a home do we need to build. Should we put a lot of extra amenities in the home? How much money should we budget for landscaping? Should we budget for building a swimming pool? If your answer is that you are only going to live in the home for a few years, then why would you invest in a lot of the frivolities that you cannot recover your money for in the short term? On the other hand, if your answer is that you will be living in the home a long time or this is the last home you want to build, then you can easily justify spending extra money in amenities. This is one of those things you have to think through. Of course, if money is no object, then it does not make any difference.

This question of longevity in the home sets up all of the following questions and issues.

I call this first issue your drop-dead, cannot exceed, and total-affordable investment amount. You and your spouse are probably the only ones who know what that dollar amount is. Human nature being what it is, you are not going to be inclined to share that figure with anyone at this point. This is an exercise that I want you to try out. Let us say for illustration purposes only that your drop-dead dollar amount is $500,000. This number could be a combination of cash on hand and what you intend to borrow. The next question should be: How many of the budgeting fundamentals am I going to try to pay for out of the $500,000?

Let us discuss a few of them:

Are we going to pay for our construction loan closing costs from this amount?

Are we going to pay for or pay off our building property from this amount?

Are we going to pay for the site-development work, such as tree removal, dirt fill, etc. from this amount? (It will be necessary for you to call around and get pricing for your particular needs. We will expound on this activity in a future chapter.)

Are we going to pay for the landscaping from this amount?

Are we going to pay for the furnishings from this amount?

At this point, you can see that we have not even talked about building the house yet. It makes sense that the more you plan on carving out of your drop-dead number, then the smaller the house needs to become.

Let us fill in the blanks.

You decide to pay for the following items out of the $500,000:

     • $95,000 |  | Building property
     • $12,000 |  | Loan closing costs
     • $29,000 |  | Site-development work
     • $25,000 |  | Landscaping
     • $30,000 |  | Furnishings
     • $191,000 |  | Total committed costs
     • $309,000 |  | Net available construction funds

Now that you know you have $309,000 in net available construction funds to work with, how large of a home can you get into? That question can best be answered by calling around in your area of the country and asking builders generally, what the price per square foot to build a custom home with quality specifications is going to be. Then it is a simple matter of dividing the $309,000 by that number and arriving at approximately the total number of square feet you can build. Getting a cost per square foot is only a shoot-from-the-hip technique. Do not place too much faith in this method. You will be taught the right way of determining house costs in the budgeting chapter. I know that you will adjust your numbers to fit your situation.

Since I build in the Houston, Texas, area, I can tell you that, in this example, you would be able to build a 3,000-square-foot home with the $309,000. Now, there are other variables to this that we will cover in later chapters. This exercise at least gets you in the ballpark. You need to come to terms with this process sooner rather than later. Your next actions depend on it.

Let us take a minute to discuss this term complete price. This is one of the most misinterpreted words in homebuilding; unfortunately, there are others that we will expound on in later chapters. The term complete price may mean one thing to you, but something entirely different to a homebuilder. To a homebuilder, the term complete price could mean all the costs of building the home itself based on the blueprints and specifications that were made available to him or her. This is where the problem begins. Follow me for a moment; you will see where I am heading. Builders are generally not going to include anything in their price that was not spelled out in the blueprints and/or specifications. The following is a partial list of these items that are most often not included in the builders “complete price.” If any of these items pertain to you, then you must make sure they are accounted for in the builder’s estimate.

Tree removal

Culvert installation

Fill dirt to elevate property

Special fill materials for foundations

Constructing access roads

Electrical service

Water service

Water wells

Sewer installation

Septic systems

Total driveway and sidewalk installation (referred to as flatwork) as shown on the site plan

Landscaping

Any other item not shown on a blueprint or specifications

Sometimes builders may include an allowance (a term that we will discuss in another chapter) for an item or items. The builder could give you an allowance price for any or all the above activities. The problem is the allowance amounts are generally not high enough to cover 100% of the true costs. Often, they do not even come close to it. Do you have the picture yet? If you cannot get a complete accurate price now, when are you supposed to get it?

You can see from this explanation that omitting any of the aforementioned items from the cost breakdown will lead to erroneous funding information. If you cannot present a complete cost breakdown to the lender, how could you expect your approved loan to cover all of the job expenses? It cannot…It will not…And it never will.

Never fear. We will cover all the budgeting items soon.

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CREDIT REPORTS

There are very important credit terms in the following glossary. Familiarize yourself with them as they will become important as you apply for your construction loan.

GLOSSARY OF CREDIT TERMS

Account Condition: Indicates the present state of the account, but does not indicate the payment history of the account that led to the current state (I.e. open, paid, charge-off, repossession, settled, foreclosed, etc.)

Account number: The unique number assigned by a creditor to identify your account with them (Experian removes several digits of each account number on the credit report as a fraud prevention measure.)

Accounts in Good Standing: Credit items that have a positive status and should reflect favorably on your creditworthiness

Adjustment: Percentage of the debt that is to be repaid to the credit grantors in a Chapter 13 bankruptcy

AKA: Also Known As

Annual fee: A special fee credit card companies may charge once a year for the use of their service (Usually between $15 and $55.)

Annual percentage rate (APR): A measure of how much interest credit will cost you (Expressed as an annual percentage.)

Authorized User: A person permitted by a credit cardholder to charge goods and services on the cardholder’s account, but is not responsible for repayment of the debt (The account displays on the credit reports of the cardholder as well as the authorized user.) (If you wish to have your name permanently removed as an authorized user on an account, you will need to notify the credit grantor.)

Balloon Payments: A loan which requires that a single, lump-sum payment be made at the end of the loan

Bankruptcy Code: Federal laws governing the conditions and procedures under which persons claiming inability to repay their debts can seek relief

Capacity: Factor in determining creditworthiness (Capacity is assessed by weighing a borrower’s earning ability and the likelihood of continuing income against the amount of debt the borrower carries at the time the application for credit is made.) (While capacity may be considered in a credit decision, the credit report does not contain information about earning ability or the likelihood of continuing income.)

Chapter 7 Bankruptcy: Chapter of the Bankruptcy Code that provides for court administered liquidation of the assets of a financially troubled individual or business

Chapter 11 Bankruptcy: Chapter of the Bankruptcy Code that is usually used for the reorganization of a financially troubled business or individual (Used as an alternative to liquidation under Chapter 7.)

Chapter 13 Bankruptcy: Chapter of the Bankruptcy Code in which debtors repay debts according to a plan accepted by the debtor, the creditors and the court (Plan payments usually come from the debtor’s future income and are paid to creditors through the court system and the bankruptcy trustee.)

Charge-Off: Action of transferring accounts deemed uncollectible to a category such as bad debt or loss. (Collectors will usually continue to solicit payments, but the accounts are no longer considered part of a company’s receivable or profit picture.)

Civil Action: Any court action against a consumer to regain money for someone else (Usually, it will be a wage assignment, child support judgment, small claims judgment or a civil judgment.)

Claim Amount: The amount awarded in a court action

Closed Date: The date an account was closed

Co-maker: A creditworthy co-maker is sometimes required in situations where an applicant’s qualifications are marginal, (A co-maker is legally responsible to repay the charges in the joint account agreement.)

Consumer Credit Counseling Service: A non-profit organization that assists consumers in dealing with their credit problems

Co-signer: Person who pledges in writing as part of a credit contract to repay the debt if the borrower fails to do so (The account displays on both the borrower’s and the co-signers credit reports.)

Credit Limit/Line of Credit: The maximum amount a borrower can draw upon or the maximum that an account can show as outstanding

Credit Items: Information reported by current or past creditors

Credit Report: Confidential report on a consumer’s payment habits as reported by their creditors to a consumer credit reporting agency (The agency provides the information to credit grantors who have a permissible purpose under the law to review the report.)

Credit Scoring: A tool used by credit grantors that provides an objective means of determining risks in granting credit (Credit scoring increases efficiency and timely response in the credit granting process.) (Credit scoring criteria is set by the credit grantor.)

Creditworthiness: The ability of a consumer to receive favorable consideration and approval for the use of credit from an establishment to which they applied

Date Filed: The date that a public record was awarded

Date of Status: On the credit report, date the creditor last reported information about the account

Date Opened: On the credit report, indicates the date an account was opened

Date Resolved: The completion date or satisfaction date of a public record item

Delinquent: Accounts classified into categories according to the time past due (Common classifications are 30, 60, 90 and 120 days past due. Special classifications also include charge-off, repossession, transferred, etc.)

Discharge: Granted by the court to release a debtor from most of his debts that were included in a bankruptcy

Disclosure: Providing the consumer with his or her credit history as required by the FCRA

Dismissed: A judge decides not to allow the consumer to continue with the bankruptcy (If the judge rules against the petition, the bankruptcy is known as dismissed.)

Dispute: When a consumer believes an item of information on their credit report is inaccurate or incomplete, they may challenge, or dispute the item (The credit reporting agency will investigate and correct or remove any inaccurate information or information that cannot be verified.)

End-user: The business that receives the report for decision making purposes that meet the permissible purpose requirements of the FCRA

Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA): Federal law, which prohibits creditors from discriminating against credit applicants on the basis of sex, marital status, race, color, religion, age, and/or receipt of public assistance

Equifax: One of the three national credit reporting agencies (The other two are Experian and TransUnion.)

Experian: One of the three national credit reporting agencies (The other two are Equifax and TransUnion.)

Fair Credit and Charge Card Disclosure Act: Amendments to the Truth In Lending Act that require the disclosure of the costs involved in credit card plans that are offered by mail, telephone or applications distributed to the general public

Fair Credit Billing Act: Federal legislation that provides a specific error resolution procedure to protect credit card customers from making payments on inaccurate billings

Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA): Federal legislation governing the actions of credit reporting agencies

Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA): Federal legislation prohibiting abusive and unfair debt collection practices

Finance Charge: Amount of interest (Finance charges are usually included in the monthly payment total.)

Fixed Rate: An annual percentage rate that does not change

Grace Period: The time period you have to pay a bill in full and avoid interest charges

Guarantor: Person responsible for paying a bill

High Balance: The highest amount that you have owed on an account to date

Installment Credit: Credit accounts in which the debt is divided into amounts to be paid successively at specified intervals

Investigation: The process a consumer credit reporting agency goes through in order to verify credit report information disputed by a consumer (The credit grantor who supplied the information is contacted and asked to review the information and report back; they will tell the credit reporting agency that the information is accurate as it appears, or they will give us corrected information to update the report.)

Investigative Consumer Reports: These are consumer reports that are usually done for background checks, security clearances and other sensitive jobs (An investigative consumer report might contain information obtained from a credit report, but it is more comprehensive than a credit report. It contains subjective material on an individual’s character, habits and mode of living, which is obtained through interviews of associates.)

Involuntary Bankruptcy: A petition filed by certain credit grantors to have a debtor judged bankrupt (If the bankruptcy is granted, it is known as an involuntary bankruptcy.)

Item-specific Statement: Offers an explanation about a particular trade or public record item on your report (It displays with that item on the credit report.)

Judgment Granted: The determination of a court upon matters submitted to it (A final determination of the rights of the parties involved in the lawsuit.)

Last Reported: On the credit report, the date the creditor last reported information about the account

Liability amount: Amount for which you are legally obligated to a creditor

Lien: Legal document used to create a security interest in another’s property (A lien is often given as a security for the payment of a debt. A lien can be placed against a consumer for failure to pay the city, county, state or federal government money that is owed. It means that the consumer’s property is being used as collateral during repayment of the money that is owed.)

Line of Credit: In open-end credit, the maximum amount a borrower can draw upon or the maximum that an account can show as outstanding

Mortgage Identification Number (MIN): Indicates that a loan is registered with Mortgage Electronic

Registration Systems Inc., which tracks the ownership of mortgage rights (This number will follow the homeowner throughout the mortgage.)

Most Recent Date: The date of the recent account condition or payment status (This date is also the balance date.

Notice of Results: If your investigation results in information being updated or deleted, you may request that we send the corrected information in your credit history to eligible credit grantors and employers who reviewed your information within a specific period of time (If your investigation does not result in a change to your credit history, results will not be sent to other lenders.)

Obsolescence: A term used to describe how long negative information should stay in a credit file before it’s not relevant to the credit granting decision (The FCRA has determined the obsolescence period to be 10 years in the case of bankruptcy and 7 years in all other instances. Unpaid tax liens may remain indefinitely, although Experian removes them after 15 years.)

Original Amount: The original amount owed to a creditor

Payment Status: Reflects the previous history of the account, including any delinquencies or derogatory conditions occurring during the previous seven years (i.e., Current account, delinquent 30, current was 60, redeemed repossession, charge-off – now paying, etc.)

Permissible Purposes: There are legally defined permissible purposes for a credit report to be issued to a third party (Permissible purposes include credit transactions, employment purposes, insurance underwriting, government financial responsibility laws, court orders, subpoenas, written instructions of the consumer, legitimate business needs, etc.)

Personal Information: Information on your personal credit report associated with your records that has been reported to us by you, your creditors and other sources (It may include name variations, your driver’s license number, Social Security number variations, your date or year of birth, your spouse’s name, your employers, your telephone numbers, and information about your residence.)

Personal Statement: You may request that a general explanation about the information on your report be added to your report. The statement remains for two years and displays to anyone who reviews your credit information.

Petition: A consumer files for bankruptcy, but a judge has not yet ruled that it can proceed (It is known as bankruptcy petitioned.)

Plaintiff: One who initially brings legal action against another (defendant) seeking a court decision

Potentially Negative Items: Any potentially negative credit items or public records that may have an effect on your creditworthiness as viewed by creditors

Public Record Data: Included as part of the credit report, this information is limited to tax liens, lawsuits and judgments that relate to the consumer’s debt obligations

Recent Balance: The most recent balance owed on an account as reported by the creditor

Recent Payment: The most recent amount paid on an account as reported by the creditor

Released: This means that a lien has been satisfied in full

Report Number: A number that uniquely identifies each personal credit report

Reported Since: The date the creditor started reporting the account to the credit agency

Repossession: A creditor’s taking possession of property pledged as collateral on a loan contract on which a borrower has fallen significantly behind in payments

Request an Investigation: If you believe that information on your report is inaccurate, the sources of the information to check their records at no cost to you (Incorrect information will be corrected; information that cannot be verified will be deleted. Accurate information cannot be removed. An investigation may take up to 30 days.)

Request for Your Credit History: When a credit grantor, direct marketer or potential employer makes a request for information from a consumer’s credit report, an inquiry is shown on the report (Grantors only see credit inquiries generated by other grantors as a result of an application of some kind, while consumers see all listed inquiries including prescreened and direct marketing offers, as well as employment inquiries. According to the Fair Credit Reporting Act, credit grantors with a permissible purpose may inquire about your credit information prior to your consent. This section also includes the date of the inquiry and how long the inquiry will remain on your report.)

Responsibility: Indicates who is responsible for an account (Can be single, joint, co-signer, etc.)

Revolving Account: Credit automatically available up to a predetermined maximum limit so long as a customer makes regular payments

Risk Scoring Models: A numerical determination of a consumer’s creditworthiness (Tool used by credit grantors to predict future payment behavior of a consumer.)

Satisfied: If the consumer has paid all of the money the court says he owes, the public record item is satisfied

Secured Credit: Loan for which some form of acceptable collateral, such as a house or automobile has been pledged

Security: Real or personal property that a borrower pledges for the term of a loan (Should the borrower fail to repay, the creditor may take ownership of the property by following legally mandated procedures.)

Security Alert: Statement that is added once the credit bureau is notified that a consumer may be a victim of fraud (It remains on file for 90 days and requests that a creditor request proof of identification before granting credit in that person’s name.)

Service Credit: These are agreements with service providers (You receive goods, such as electricity, and services, such as apartment rental and health club memberships, with the agreement that you will pay for them each month. Your contract may require payments for a specific number of months, even if you stop the service.)

Settle: Reach an agreement with a lender to repay only part of the original debt.

Source: The business or organization that supplied certain information that appears on the credit report

Status: On the credit report, this indicates the current status or state of the account.

Terms: This refers to the debt repayment terms of your agreement with a creditor, such as 60 months, 48 months, etc.

Third-Party Collectors: Collectors who are under contract to collect debts for a credit department or credit company; collection agency

Tradeline: Entry by a credit grantor to a consumer’s credit history maintained by a credit reporting agency (A tradeline describes the consumer’s account status and activity. Tradeline information includes names of companies where the applicant has accounts, dates accounts were opened, credit limits, types of accounts, balances owed and payment histories.)

Transaction fees: Fees charged for certain use of your credit line (For example, to get a cash advance from an ATM.)

TransUnion: One of three national credit reporting agencies (The other two are Experian and Equifax.)

Truth in Lending Act: Title I of the Consumer Protection Act (Requires that most categories of lenders disclose the annual interest rate, the total dollar cost and other terms of loans and credit sales.)

Type: This refers to the type of credit agreement made with a creditor (For example, a revolving account or installment loan.)

Unsecured Credit: Credit for which no collateral has been pledged (Loans made under this arrangement are sometimes called signature loans; in other words, a loan is granted based only on the customer’s words, through signing an agreement that the loan amount will be paid.)

Vacated: Indicates a judgment that was rendered void or set aside

Variable Rate: An annual percentage rate that may change over time as the prime lending rate varies or according to your contract with the lender

Verification: Verifying whether data in a credit report is correct or not (Initiated by consumers when they question some information in their file. Credit reporting agencies will accept authentic documentation from the consumer that will help in the verification.)

Victim Statement: A statement that can be added to a consumer’s credit report to alert credit grantors that a consumer’s identification has been used fraudulently to obtain credit (The statement requests the credit grantor to contact the consumer by telephone before issuing credit. It remains on file for 7 years unless the consumer requests that it be removed.)

Voluntary Bankruptcy: If a consumer files the bankruptcy on his own, it is known as voluntary bankruptcy

Wage assignment: A signed agreement by a buyer or borrower, permitting a creditor to collect a certain portion of the debtor’s wages from an employer in the event of default

Withdrawn: This means a decision was made not to pursue a bankruptcy, a lien, etc. after court documents have been filed

Writ of Replevin: Legal document issued by a court authorizing repossession of security

I know you are asking yourself, “Why is he making this an issue now? I will not be applying for a loan for quite a while.” The answer is simple. You need to prepare yourself now for getting a loan from a lender later. It is going to take time (sometimes months) to correct your reports in advance of applying for your loan.

Your credit report is going to be one of the most major considerations in obtaining a construction loan. We will cover obtaining construction loans in Chapter 6.

It’s a must to get a current copy of your credit report from the three major credit reporting agencies. These are TransUnion, Experian, and Equifax. Even in this age of electronic wizardry, things can still go wrong with your reports.

You will want to check your credit reports for the following items:

Do you have any old derogatory information that needs to be removed? Generally, credit information can remain on your report 7 years. The exceptions to this rule are federal tax liens and bankruptcies which will remain on your report for 10 years.

Do you need to have letters of explanation on file for any current disputes with a creditor? Perhaps there were some extenuating circumstances that need to be explained.

Is the credit status with your current creditors correct? This is where we get into the discussion of validation. You have the right under the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA) to challenge a credit bureau, creditor, or collection agency for any information that is contained in any of your credit reports. The following is a sample validation letter. You will always want to send these certified mail with a return receipt.
John Q. Citizen
123 Main St.
Creditville, Texas 54321

May 30, 2012
Re: Account #123456

Dear I C Systems Inc.,

In regards to the entry on my Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion credit reports from your offices, I request validation of the alleged debt pursuant to the FDCPA.
If you cannot provide proof that this alleged debt belongs to me, including the name/address of the original creditor, and provide documentation that I have a legal obligation to pay you, then I demand that you remove the account from my credit reports immediately.

Any future communications with me must be done in writing and sent to the address provided in this letter.

Sincerely,

John Q. Citizen

You would be amazed at how many derogatory remarks can be removed from your reports. The Collection Agencies, Credit Bureau’s, and Creditors have up to 45 days to respond. If they don’t respond, then the derogatory information has to be removed from the affected reports.

The credit bureaus, creditors, and collection agencies must have any of the following information contained in your reports correctly: Your name, address, account number, social security number, alleged amount owed, name and address of the original creditor, and original creditor documentation that proves you had a legal obligation to pay.

Is there any information on your report that is not yours? This is normally one of the easier remarks to have removed.

Is there any good credit information that should be on your report but is not? If you have good accounts that should be on your report, you can contact the creditor to see if they can report your credit information to their respective reporting agency.

Is there any indication of identity theft? This one can be tough. I encourage everyone to subscribe to a credit identity protection service especially those that can protect your checking accounts.

Any of these, especially identity theft, can take an inordinate amount of time to correct. Remember, timing is everything. Waiting until you apply for your loan and then finding out there’s a problem with your credit report is not good timing.

Remember this: The higher your credit score, the easier it is to get a loan. Your responsibility is to elevate this number as high as you can before applying for a loan. Most lenders will probably not want to advance the loan process unless your credit score is at least 720 or higher. You need to check with your preferred lender to get their criteria.

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APPRAISALS

GLOSSARY OF APPRAISAL TERMS

Abstraction method: A method of estimating the value of property using similar properties available in the same market to determine the value of a parcel of land. It is a structured analysis to systematically examine demand factors needed to support any increase in supply of real estate space in any given area.

Acceleration clause: This is a clause in your mortgage or loan that allows the lender the legal right to demand the full payment of your loan if you default. This payment can be due immediately upon your failure to pay or if the borrower transfers the title to the property to another individual without informing the lender, this also applies to nonpayment of property taxes or homeowners insurance. Most mortgages contain the acceleration clause as a protection for the lender.

Accessory building: A structure on a property that serves a special purpose or complements the home or main building like a garage or shed is an accessory building. In most zoning districts an accessory building can be erected unattached from the house or main building.

Accretion: The natural growth of a piece of land resulting from forces of nature or the gradual addition to the shore or bank of a waterway by deposits of sand or silt. This natural process of land addition on a stream, lake or seaside is a special gift from Mother Nature to the land owner.

Acre: A tract of land containing 43,560 square feet (When purchasing real estate, whether it is land void of a structure, or land with a structure, it is important for every buyer to be aware of the land size. The survey will reveal to the buyer the exact land size.)

Actual age: In appraisal terms the chronological age of an improvement, as contrasted with its effective age (Example: although the actual age of the building was only 5 years, excessively heavy use made it appear much older. When purchasing insurance on your property, you will need to know the actual age.)

Adjustment date: An adjustment date is the date on an adjustable-rate mortgage that the interest rate changes (This date is frequently predetermined and, the amount of the adjustment rate is also predetermined when the mortgage is written.)

Ad val orem tax: Refer to the taxes assessed by the government agency, the office of the assessor, based on the value of the land and improvements (The office of the assessor will list and value all taxable property, real and tax purposes.)

Addendum: An addendum to a real estate contract or purchase agreement is a document that becomes a part of the original contract to explain or add information or requirements that are not clear in the original contract (Appraisers might use an addendum to explain items for which there was inadequate space on the original contract.)

Adjusted basis: The base price of an asset or security that reflects any deductions taken on or improvements to the property or security (Used to compute the gain or loss when sold.)

Adjusted sales price: The adjusted sales price is an adjustment of the selling price of a property, sometimes used to match the characteristics of another property (Since no two parcels of land are exactly the same, an appraiser will analyze other sales to find patterns, and assign dollar amounts to the main differences and then adjust the selling price. An example is two homes, next door to each other and looking exactly the same except one might have a garage attached. A momentary amount will be assigned to the garage. This amount will add to the selling price. The difference in the selling price would be the adjusted sales price.)

Aesthetic value: Increment of market or user value attributed to the appearance of a property (Example: the lake and mountain setting of the vacation cabin contributed a great amount of aesthetic value to the property. A tennis court, swimming pool or beautiful landscaping can also increase the value of a property and allow the owner to obtain more of a premium price.)

Affirmation: A declaration that a certain set of facts are truthful, made under the penalties of perjury by a person who conscientiously declines taking an oath

Affordability analysis: A calculation used to determine an individual’s likelihood of being able to meet the obligations of a mortgage for a particular property (Takes into account the down payment, closing costs and on-going mortgage payments. This information is important for both the buyer and the seller.)

Agent: A person who has been appointed to act on behalf of another for a particular transaction (Also known as a foot soldier, because he or she finds properties for a particular buyer and then takes the buyer to view the property and handles all aspects to the purchasing of the property.)

Amenity: Any feature of a property that increases its value or desirability (These might include natural amenities such as location or proximity to mountains, or man-made amenities like swimming pools, parks or other recreation. Amenities might also include proximity to schools, libraries and shopping.)

American Society of Appraisers: An appraisal organization consisting of persons involved in the appraisal of both real and personal property (Appraisers are not restricted to just real estate, but also appraisers are used to appraise a business for sale, or for estate taxes or an inheritance.)

Appraisal: A defensible and carefully documented opinion of value (Most commonly derived using recent sales of comparable properties by a licensed, professional appraiser. Not only used for real estate, but also used to appraise estates for tax purposes or inheritance.)

Appraisal foundation: A not-for-profit educational organization established by the appraisal profession in the United States in 1987 (It is dedicated to the advancement of professional valuation and responsible for establishing, improving, and promoting the uniform standards of professional appraisal practice (USPAP.)

Appraisal Institute: A world-wide organization dedicated to real estate appraisal education, publication and advocacy

Appraisal principles: The basic building blocks of the property valuation process, including property inspection, market analysis and basic economics

Appraisal report: The end result of the appraisal process usually consists of one major standardized form such as, the uniform residential appraisal report form 1004, as well as all supporting documentation and additional detail information (The purpose of the report is to convey the opinion of value of the subject property and support that opinion with corroborating information.)

Appraisal Standards Board (ASB): An independent board of the appraisal foundation, which writes, amends, and interprets USPAP (The ASB is composed of up to seven appraisers appointed by the foundation’s board of trustees. The ASB holds public meetings throughout the year to interpret and amend USPAP.)

Appraised value: An opinion of the fair market value of a property as developed by a licensed, certified appraiser following accepted appraisal principals

Appraiser: An educated, certified professional with extensive knowledge of real estate markets, values and practices (The appraiser is often the only independent voice in any real estate transaction with no vested interest in the ultimate value or sales price of the property.)

Appreciation: The natural rise in property value due to market forces or another way to describe appreciation is the increase in value of a property over time due to inflation

Arm’s Length Transaction: Any transaction in which the two parties are unconnected and have no overt common interests (Such a transaction most often reflects the true market value of a property.)

Assessed value: The value of a property according to jurisdictional tax assessment

Assessment: The function of assigning a value to a property for the purpose of levying taxes

Assessment ratio: The comparative relationship of a property’s assessed value to its market value

Assessor: The jurisdictional official who performs the assessment and assigns the value of a property

Certificate of Reasonable Value (CRV): Usually based on an independent appraisal, a CRV for a particular property establishes the maximum amount which can be secured by a VA mortgage

Certified general appraiser: Generally, any professional who has met the local or state requirements, and passed the appropriate certification exam, and is capable of appraising any type of property

Certified residential appraiser: A sub-classification of appraiser who is only licensed to appraise residential property, usually up to four units

Chattel: Any personal property which is not attached to or an integral part of a property (Personal property. Chattel is not commonly taken into consideration when appraising the value of real property.)

Comparables: An abbreviated term used by appraisers to describe properties which are similar in size, condition, location and amenities to a subject property whose value is being determined (The uniform standards of professional appraisal practice (USPAP) establish clear guidelines for determining a comparable property.)

Condemnation: The official process by which a property is deemed to be uninhabitable or unusable due to internal damage or other external conditions

Date of appraisal: The specific point in time as of which an appraiser designates the value of a home (Often stipulated as the date of inspection.)

Depreciation: The natural decline in property value due to market forces or depletion of resources

Easement: The right of a non-owner of property to exert control over a portion or all of the property. For example, power companies often own an easement over residential properties for access to their power lines.

Economic depreciation: The decline in property value caused by external forces, such as neighborhood blight or adverse development

Effective age: The subjective, estimated age of a property based on its condition, rather than the actual time since it was built (Excessive wear and tear can cause a property’s effective age to be greater than its actual age.)

Eminent domain: The legal process whereby a government can take ownership of a piece of property in order to convert it to public use (Often, the property owner is paid fair-market value for the property.)

Encroachment: A building or other improvement on one property which invades another property or restricts is usage (Building, or part of a building, or obstruction that physically intrudes upon, overlaps, or trespasses upon the property of another.)

Errors and Omissions insurance: An insurance policy taken out by appraisers to cover their liability for any mistakes made during the appraisal process

Fee appraiser: A certified, professional appraiser who forms an opinion of the fair market value of property and receives a set fee in exchange for the opinion of value of a piece of property resulting from an appraisal following the USPAP guidelines

Fixture: Any piece of personal property which becomes permanently affixed to a piece of real property.

Functional obsolescence: A decrease in the value of property due to a feature or lack thereof which renders the property undesirable (Functional obsolescence can also occur when the surrounding area changes, rendering the property unusable for its originally intended purpose.)

Hidden amenities: Assets of a property which contribute to its value, but are not readily apparent (Examples might include upgraded or premium building materials.)

Income approach: The process of estimating the value of property by considering the present value of a stream of income generated by the property

Independent appraisal: An estimate of the value of a property prepared by someone who has no interest in the property or, if a mortgage is involved (An appraisal by one who has no interest in the property or nothing to gain from a high or low appraisal.)

Latent defects: Any defect in a piece of property which is not readily apparent, but which has an impact of the value (Structural damage or termite infestation would be examples of latent defects.)

Major deficiency: A deficiency that strongly impacts the usability and habitability of a house (Or a deficiency that may be very expensive to repair.)

National Association of Master Appraisers (NAMA): A nonprofit professional association organized in 1982, dedicated to the advancement of professionalism in real estate appraisal

National Society of Real Estate Appraisers (NSREA): An organization founded in 1956 which promotes standards of professionalism in its members

Natural vacancy rate: The percentage of vacant properties in a given area that is the result of natural turnover and market forces

Obsolescence: The process of an assets value diminishing due to the development of more desirable alternatives or because of the degradation of its capabilities

Off-site improvements: Buildings, structures or other amenities which are not located on a piece of property (But are necessary to maximize the use of the property or in some way contribute to the value of the property.)

On-site improvements: Buildings, structures or other amenities that are erected on a piece of property and contribute to its value

Open space: Any land which has not had any significant buildings or structures erected on it (Most often used to describe desirable neighborhood features like parks or wooded areas.)

Personal property: Owned items which are not permanently affixed to the land

Plat: A plan or chart of a piece of land which lays out existing or planned streets, lots or other improvements

Wear and tear: A term used to indicate the normal damage inflicted on a property through every-day use

To say the appraisal is important would be an understatement. Credit issues notwithstanding, your ability to get a construction loan and permanent mortgage depends on the appraisal. When you submit a loan application to a lender, you will usually write a check for about $300 to $400 (application fee) to get the process underway. The bulk of the funds will go for securing an appraiser. The appraiser will study your plans and specifications and compare it to similar existing homes in the immediate area. They need to find similar homes in a radius of about three miles from where you will be building. This process is referred to as finding “comparables,” or “comps.” Where this comp process gets sticky is if the appraiser cannot find similar homes that are 12 months old or less. Most lenders prefer that the comp not be over six months old. Here is an example: You want to build a 3,000-square-foot home on a one-acre lot. The appraiser will be trying to find three other 3,000-square-foot homes on one-acre lots within the given radius. The homes he finds can be plus or minus 15% of the 3,000 square feet.

If the issue of not being able to find similar comps arises, it is conceivable that the lender may have to lower the value. The appraisal is going to determine how much money you can borrow. Most lenders now will only let you borrow up to 80% of the appraised value.

Let’s say that your proposed new home built on a lot that you purchased will only appraise for $300,000. That means the most you are going to able to borrow based on an 80% loan is $240,000. Do you remember that your construction costs based on our previous example are going to be $309,000? What happened? It could very well be that the appraisal could not come back high enough because of the area that you want to build in. I have seen this situation a number of times, and it poses a decision that has to be made sooner rather than later. Do I sell the lot and buy into a different neighborhood that will support the cost of my home? Alternatively, do I reduce my construction budget to be able to work with the loan I was approved for?

Here is another potential problem. You want to build a home on, let’s say, a 30-acre lot. The appraiser still has to find similar-size homes on similar-size lots. In the land acquisition section, we discuss the problems that a couple of my customers had when they wanted to build a log home in a subdivision that had no other log homes to be able to comp anywhere around. It is possible that exceptions can be made to any of these situations, but you cannot count on it. It would have to be a very unusual circumstance that would permit a variation.

These problems concerning appraisals are only two of several issues of concern. This is why I urge you to proceed with caution in the beginning stages of homebuilding. Poor land acquisition decisions now will only be aggravated later.

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CONSTRUCTION AND MORTGAGE LOANS

GLOSSARY OF MORTGAGE LOAN TERMS

Review the glossary of terms for construction loans. It will make the loan process that much easier.

Acceleration Clause: A provision in a mortgage that gives the lender the right to demand payment of the entire outstanding balance if a monthly payment is missed

Adjustable-Rate Mortgage (ARM): A mortgage whose interest rate changes over time based on an index and a margin (Rate changes are made at prescribed times and within prescribed limits (caps) as defined in the mortgage contract.)

Adjustment Interval: On an adjustable-rate mortgage, the time between changes in the interest rate and/or monthly payment, typically one, three or five years, depending on the index

Amortization: The period of time on which the repayment of loan principal and interest is based.
Loans have different amortization schedules and terms. There are three basic ways to repay a loan:
1. In equal installments, each containing a blend of principal and interest.
2. In varying but regular installments, each containing a blend of principal and interest.
3. In irregular installments of principal or interest only with a large final payment (see Balloon Payment)

Annual Percentage Rate (A.P.R.): The interest rate reflecting the cost of a mortgage as a yearly rate (This rate is likely to be higher than the stated rate on the mortgage because it takes into account points and other credit costs.)

Appraisal: An opinion of the market value of a property, made by a qualified “appraiser”

Appreciation: An increase in value due to changes in market conditions or other causes

Assumption: The transfer of the seller’s existing mortgage to the buyer

Balloon Mortgage: Usually a short-term fixed-rate loan which involves small payments for a certain period of time and one large payment for the remaining amount of the principal at a time specified in the contract

Balloon Payment: The final payment of a loan with an amortization period that is longer than the loan term (For example, if the loan amortization period is 10 years but the loan term is 5 years the unpaid principal at year 5 is the Balloon Payment.) (This type of loan is awarded to borrowers who need a smaller or more affordable monthly loan payment but have the capacity to refinance at the end of their loan term.)

Bridge Loan: Short-term loan made in anticipation of long-term funding or financing.

Building and Real Estate Costs: Soft Costs Expenses, other than Hard Costs, incurred in developing a real estate project, including legal and lending fees, architectural and design fees, permits, etc. (Hard Costs Are the direct costs to construct a building or structure, otherwise known as bricks and mortar costs, including acquisition of property, construction, equipment, etc.) (Hidden Costs Less visible costs associated with the facilities development process, such as staff and board time and attention.) (Contingency Costs are a portion of the construction costs set aside to cover unexpected hard or soft costs.)

Building Reserve: Money set aside to pay for facilities upkeep (The amounts can be large, the ultimate need a certainty, but the exact timing is uncertain.) (These are often big-ticket items, like replacing the roof, which are difficult to accommodate in a single year’s budget.)

Collateral: The property a borrower pledges to a Lender to secure repayment of the loan (Collateral could include: a lien on your house, equipment from your business, or a bank account.) (If the borrower defaults, the lender has the legal right to seize the collateral and sell it to pay off the loan.)

Debt: Money, goods or services that one party is obligated to pay another in accordance with an expressed or implied agreement.

Buy-Down: When the lender and/or the home builder subsidized the mortgage by lowering the interest rate during the first few years of the loan (While the payments are initially low, they will increase when the subsidy expires.)

Cap: A provision of an ARM limiting the interest rate or mortgage payment’s increase

Cash Reserve: Sufficient cash remaining after closing to make the first two mortgage payments

Closing: The occasion where a sale is finalized; the buyer signs the mortgage, and closing costs are paid (Also called “settlement”)

Commitment: A promise by a lender to make a loan on specific terms to a borrower

Construction Loan: A short term interim loan for financing the cost of construction (The lender advances funds to the builder at periodic intervals as the work progresses.)

Contingency: A condition that must be met before a contract is legally binding

Convertible ARM: An adjustable-rate mortgage that can be converted to a fixed-rate mortgage under specified conditions

Debt-to-Income Ratio: The ratio, expressed as a percentage, which results when a borrower’s monthly payment obligation on long-term debts is divided by his or her gross monthly income

Debt Service Coverage or Debt Coverage Ratio: A calculation a Lender uses to determine ability to repay a loan. This calculation is typically expressed as a ratio. Most Lenders have minimum debt service coverage requirements ranging from 1.05: 1.00 (i.e. the net income must be 5% in excess of the loan payment) to 1.25: 1.00 (i.e. the net income must be 25% in excess of the loan payment). DSC or DCR = Net Income (after all expenses excluding debt service) = 1.10: 1.00 Total Loan Payment

Deed: The legal document conveying title to a property

Default: Failure to meet legal obligations in a contract, specifically, failure to make the monthly payments on a mortgage

Delinquency: Failure to make payments on time (This can lead to foreclosure.)

Deposit Cash: Paid to the seller when a formal sales contract is signed.

Depreciation: A decline in the value of a property; the opposite of “appreciation.”

Down Payment: Money paid to make up the difference between the purchase price and the mortgage amount.

Earnest Money: Given by buyer to seller as part of the purchase price to bind the transaction

Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA): Federal law that requires lenders and other creditors to make credit equally available without discrimination based on race, color, religion, national origin, age, sex, marital status or receipt of income from public assistance programs

Equity: The value an owner has in real estate over and above the loans against the property.

Equity Loan: A loan based on the borrower’s equity in his or her home

Escrow: Refers to a neutral third party who carries out the instruction of both the buyer and seller to handle all the paperwork of settlement or closing (Escrow may also refer to an account held by the lender into which the home buyer pays money for tax or insurance payments.)

Fees: Charges by a Lender for making the loan. Fees can include a range of costs. Such as a loan origination fee, service fee and monitoring fee (also see Points).

Foreclosure: Legal process by which the lender or the seller forces a sale of a mortgaged property because the borrower has not met the terms of the mortgage

Fixed-Rate Mortgage: A mortgage on which the interest rate is set for the term of the loan

Graduated Payment Mortgage (GPM): A type of flexible-payment mortgage where the payments increase for a specified period of time and then level off

Guaranty: A promise by one party to pay a debt or perform an obligation contracted by another if the original party fails to pay or perform according to a contract

Hazard Insurance: A form of insurance in which the insurance company protects the insured from specified losses, such as fire, windstorm and the like

Homeowner’s Insurance: A policy that combines liability coverage and hazard insurance

Homeowner’s Warranty: A type of insurance that covers repairs to specified parts of a house for a specific period of time

Housing Expenses-to-Income Ratio: The ratio, expressed as a percentage, which results when a borrower’s housing expenses are divided by his/her gross monthly income.

Impound: That portion of a borrower’s monthly payments held by the lender or servicer to pay for taxes, hazard insurance, mortgage insurance, lease payments, and other items as they become due.

Index: A published interest rate against which lenders measure the difference between the current interest rate on an adjustable-rate mortgage and that earned by other investments, which is then used to adjust the interest rate.

Interest: The fee charged by the lender for borrowing money

Interest Rate: The amount a Lender will charge for the use of its funds. Interest rates vary greatly from loan to loan and are frequently tied to industry measures such as prime rate. For example, if prime rate is 4.75%, then a prime plus two percent rate would mean a loan with a 6.75% interest rate.

Interim Financing: A construction loan made during completion of a building or a project (A permanent loan usually replaces this loan after completion.)

Jumbo Loan: A loan which is larger than $322,700

Lien: A claim a Lender places on property in return for making a loan (If a borrower is unable to make loan payments as agreed, it gives the Lender the right to collect repayment of the loan through selling the borrower s property.) (If the lien is placed on real property such as a house, this lien is often referred to as the “Mortgage”.)

Loan-to-Value Ratio: The relationship between the amount of the mortgage loan and the appraised value of the property, expressed as a percentage

Lock-In: A written agreement guaranteeing the home buyer a specified interest rate provided the loan is closes with that buyer within a set period of time (The lock-in also usually specifies the number of points to be paid at closing as well.)

Margin: The set percentage added to the index rate to determine the interest rate of an ARM

Mortgage: A legal document that pledges a property to the lender as security for payment

Mortgage Insurance (Private Mortgage Insurance - PMI): Money paid to insure the mortgage when the down payment is less than 20 percent (Insurance provided by a nongovernmental insurer that protects lenders against a loss if a borrower defaults.)

Mortgagee: The lender.

Mortgagor: The borrower / homeowner

Negative Amortization: Occurs when monthly payments are not large enough to pay all the interest due on the loan (This unpaid interest is added to the unpaid balance of the loan.)

Origination Fee: The fee charged by a lender to prepare loan documents, make credit checks, inspect and sometimes appraise a property; usually computed as a percentage of the face value of the loan

Owner Financing: A purchase in which the seller provides all or part of the financing.

Payment Cap: A provision of some ARMs limiting how much a borrower’s payments may increase regardless of how much the interest rate increases

PITI: Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance. Also called monthly housing expense

Points (loan discount points): Prepaid interest assessed at closing by the lender (Each point is equal to 1 percent of the loan amount.)

Prime Rate: The rate of interest that serves as a benchmark for the interest rates banks will charge (See Interest Rate) (Banks typically lend at an Interest Rate that is Prime Rate plus an additional percentage based on the loan type and borrower.)

Power of Attorney: A legal document authorizing one person to act on behalf of another

Pre-Payment: A privilege in a mortgage permitting the borrower to make payments in advance of their due date

Pre-Payment Penalty: Money charged for an early repayment of debt

Principal: The amount of debt, not counting interest, left on a loan

Qualifying Ratios: Guidelines applied by lenders to determine how large a loan to grant the home buyer (The debt-to-income ratio is your current monthly debt on loans and credit cards divided by your gross income.) (The housing-to-income ratio is your new housing payments divided by your gross income.)

Recording Fees: Money paid to the lender for recording a home sale with the local authorities, thereby making it part of the public records

Refinancing: The process of paying off one loan with the proceeds from a new loan secured by the same property (This is most often done to get the better interest rates offered by the new loan.)

Second Mortgage: A mortgage made subsequent to another and subordinate to the first one

Title: A document that gives evidence of an individual’s ownership of property

Title Insurance: A policy, usually issued by a title insurance company, which insures a home buyer against errors in the title search (The cost of the policy is usually a function of the value of the property, and is often borne by the purchaser and/or seller.)

Title Search: An examination of municipal records to determine the legal ownership of property (This is usually performed by a title company.)

Transfer Tax: State or local tax payable when title passes from one owner to another

Truth-In-Lending: A federal law that requires lenders to full disclose, in writing, the terms and conditions of a mortgage, including the APR and other charges

Two-Step Mortgage: A mortgage in which the borrower receives a below-market interest rate for a specified number of years, and then receives a new interest rate adjusted (within certain limits) to market conditions at that time

Underwriting: The decision whether to make a loan based on credit, employment, assets, and other factors and the matching of this risk to an appropriate rate, term & loan amount

Verification of Deposit (VOD): A document signed by the borrower’s financial institution verifying the status and balance of his/her financial accounts

Verification of Employment (VOE): A document signed by the borrower’s employer verifying his/her position and salary

Getting a construction loan can be a very painful experience. It can be less so if you do all of your homework as outlined in this book.

Do your homework and find out all the options that are available to you. There are a number of different types of loans, but the two chosen most often are the “one-time close” and the “construction to permanent” loan. Let’s discuss these now.

A “one-time-close” financing arrangement for construction financing combines the foregoing three phases into a single combined process. With the “one-time-close” transaction the borrower obtains permanent loan approval and closes the interim and permanent loan transaction prior to the commencement of construction. In essence, the lender acts as both the interim construction lender and the permanent mortgage lender. Because of the unique “two-hat” personality of the lender in this type of financing arrangement this type of loan is somewhat rare and is typically provided only by banks or savings banks that have construction lending experience (and also act as mortgage bankers) or mortgage brokers who have wholesale or correspondent relationships with these banks. Other than the fact that the interim and permanent mortgages are closed in a single transaction, this form financing is actually very similar logistically to the traditional construction-to-perm financing arrangement.

A construction-to-permanent (or “construction-to-perm”) financing arrangement is the traditional form for completing a newly constructed residential dwelling. With this form of financing there are three stages: the “pre-approval” or “commitment” stage, the “interim lending” or “construction” phase, and the “permanent loan” phase.

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Phase 1. The first phase in this arrangement is to obtain pre-approval for a permanent mortgage loan. This process is similar to the pre-qualification or pre-approval stage of the financing of an existing home (not new construction). The borrower will make application for and submit all of the required documentation to a permanent lender to obtain pre-approval. An appraisal report for the proposed residence is prepared “subject to completion of improvements”. The appraiser will obtain the architectural plans, construction documents and specifications of materials and based on this information the appraiser will state an opinion as to the value of the home once the improvements are completed. Based on all this documentation the permanent mortgage lender will then approve the application and provide a “commitment letter” addressed to the borrower (and sometimes, the interim lender) stating that the borrower satisfies the conditions for the permanent mortgage loan that will “take out” the existing interim loan. This commitment agreement assures the interim lender that the borrower has the ability to pay the interim loan in full (from the proceeds of a new permanent mortgage) after construction of the dwelling is completed.

Phase 2. In the second phase the borrower will secure a temporary “interim” or “construction” loan for the purpose of providing funds to acquire the land or lot on which the house is to be erected and to provide the funds necessary to construct the dwelling. If the borrower already owns the land or lot on which the home will be erected, the interim lender (usually a bank) will provide funds to pay-off the balance of any loan secured by a lien on the lot or land. The interim lender will also provide the funds necessary to construct the dwelling. The interim lender will not disburse all of the funds to the builder or the borrower at the closing. Instead, the interim lender will disburse those funds periodically throughout the period of construction as various phases of construction are completed. The disbursement of a portion of the total interim loan funds as construction progresses is referred to as a “draw”. There may be as few as three (3) and as many as six (6) draws throughout the construction of improvements. The borrower will pay interest only on the disbursed portion of the loan proceeds. An interim loan may be either a fixed-rate or variable-rate loan (usually tied to the prime rate). The interim lender will usually require the borrower to pay the interim interest monthly or quarterly as it accrues during the period of construction, however, in some cases the interim lender may permit the interest to accrue, not requiring its payment until the interim loan is paid in full.

Phase 3. As the completion of the interim construction phase draws near, the permanent lender will update its mortgage loan file obtaining updated credit, income and asset documentation to obtain an updated loan approval for the borrower. Once the construction of the dwelling is complete, the appraiser that prepared the original written appraisal report will inspect the property to determine that the construction of the dwelling conforms to the plans and specification on which the original opinion of value was based. After completing the “final inspection” the appraiser will recertify the prior opinion of value. The title documents are also updated during this process and when completed, the borrower will close on the new permanent mortgage, the proceeds of which will be used to pay the balance on the interim construction loan.

The only significant advantage to using the “one-time-close” arrangement of financing is that the qualification process is only required prior to the construction phase. With the traditional “construction-to-perm” form of financing the borrower, builder and interim lender are at risk that an occurrence beyond the control of the parties could jeopardize the ability of the borrower to “re-qualify” at the completion of the construction phase. Typically, the only event that would create a problem in this regard is where one or both of the borrowers lose their jobs or have a significant decrease in earnings during the construction of the dwelling.

Conversely, there are numerous disadvantages to the “one-time-close” procedure. The borrower’s qualifications and the underwriting of the application for the “one-time-close” transaction are conducted as if the transaction were a purchase transaction. This means that “value” of the property for determining the loan-to-value ratio and the maximum loan amount will be the lesser of the appraised value or the acquisition cost (the cost of the lot or land plus the documented cost of construction the dwelling).

Furthermore, the high-LTV loan programs that typically available on purchases (i.e. 97% and 100% financing) are not available for the “one-time-close” transactions. In fact, most “one-time-close” programs are limited to a 90% LTV.

With the “construction-to-perm” arrangement a borrower may “choose” the most advantageous form of financing. This means that if the borrower wants to utilize a Fannie Mae Flex 100 program to obtain 100% financing he can do so. But even more compelling is the ability of the borrower to “choose’ to have the transaction underwritten as a refinance and thereby utilize the appraised value of the property (as opposed to acquisition cost) to determine LTV and maximum loan amount.

Get prequalified for a loan. This will help determine if the requested loan amount is within your budget. It will also allow you to find out what the monthly land or mortgage payment is going to be, to make sure you qualify before you run out and buy land.

Shop around for the best loan deals. You want to make sure that the construction lender is experienced in construction loans. Many loan officers are salespeople who usually have one thing in mind, and that is their commission. It might be in your best interest to deal with an experienced loan broker instead of confronting the lenders yourself. The broker has direct access to many banks. They are a middleman, but using them does not cost you anything extra because brokers get loans at wholesale rates and pass them along to you at retail prices, just like any other business. In fact, you can quite often get a better deal with a broker than you can when working with the banks on your own.

After you submit your loan application, loan officers will review these and other documents to see if you can qualify. Of course, they are going to check your credit history, employment, etc. Their analysis will yield a ratio called the income-to-debt ratio. Generally, the ratio will range from 36% to 45%. The income-to-debt ratio is the percentage of monthly debt payments (including your new mortgage payment, taxes, and insurance). This ratio should not exceed 36% to 45% of your monthly income. Some banks will allow you to exceed this ratio if you have an excellent credit history and excellent credit score.

There are going to be some very important documents that need to be provided to the lender. These are blueprints, specifications, a cost breakdown (budget), and a construction contract. We have briefly mentioned a couple of them. We are going to cover all of them in great detail a little later. I have seen many folks get a construction loan, only to find out later that they did not borrow enough money to cover all the expenses. There were expenses that were never accounted for. This happens when their cost analysis was incomplete. The result is you wind up with a construction budget that does not represent all the construction costs. The customer takes the cost breakdown to the lender. The lender bases the loan on that cost analysis. Since that was lacking, then the loan will be lacking, etc.

You may or may not be able to add on to your loan in order to pay for the additional costs. This depends on the type of loan you secured. This is one of the reasons why I want you to think twice before you get involved in a loan with a one-time closing. Generally, with this type of loan, you will combine the closing for the construction financing and the permanent mortgage financing together. You will not be able to add on if the situation calls for it. I believe it to be better if you have separate loan closings; then if you qualify for the additional funds, you can add on later if necessary. Please check with your prospective lender to see what their policy is regarding a one-time closing.

Do you think that this causes a lot of problems? I assure you it does, and it is so unnecessary.

Follow very closely in the following pages and chapters. You are going to read about these details that will put you in the big game. When you go to the bank to get your loan, you will be armed with all the cost information.

Lastly, let’s say that you own some property that you want to start building a home on. You have enough cash on hand to get through 50% of the construction. You are going to need a loan to cover the final 50%.

The question is can you start construction using the cash that you have now and get the loan later? The answer is no.

Do not even think about doing this. You cannot start construction until any construction funds that you need to borrow have been secured with a lender and closed on. If you start construction ahead of time, you will not be able to get a loan from a lender because you have jeopardized the lender’s lien position. Remember, your lender will only accept a first lien position on the property. If you have already started construction, they have no idea if other liens are about to be placed on the property because of disputes or unpaid bills.

Once your construction loan is secured, here is another situation that you need to be acutely aware of. In addition to the funds that you’ll be receiving by way of construction progress draws, you’ll need to have enough money on hand to be able to keep the operation moving smoothly (invoices paid) while you’re waiting for the draws. Unfortunately, sub-contractors don’t really care when you’re supposed to get your money. All that many of them know is that they need to be paid on Friday or you won’t see them on Monday. This is the real world. Vendors don’t want to hear your stories about how you won’t be able to get a draw for two or three more weeks. This scenario creates a short term pressure that requires you to have additional funds on hand to jump the gap between the time that labor and materials need to be paid and the time that you will actually get your draw. I’m often asked “how much gap financing should I have?” The answer is not black and white, but for most folks, if you can get your hands on $25,000 to $50,000 immediately, you should be able to cover the ongoing expenses. This number will fluctuate mainly due to the size of the home. This may have to be accomplished by using credit cards, borrowing from relatives, taking money out of savings (if you have any left). The theory is that when you finally do get your draw, you’ll be able to pay off the source of the short term funds immediately. I say theory because what may enter into the picture are change order add ons and other unforeseen expenses. These types of expenses will certainly reduce the amount of money available to pay yourself back. You will only be fooling yourself if you don’t plan on extra expenditures.

One last word of caution and then we’ll move on. Do what you have to do to keep your job rolling. Do not under any circumstances let the job remain idle because of money issues. This is the kiss of death to a homebuilding operation. Sub-contractors aren’t going to wait. They’ll move on to another job and you may not get them back. They figure that you are a risky customer. You will screw up your program to the point where you may not be able to get back on track and be fluid. All the while you are wasting time; the taxi meter on your loan interest is still clicking. This was the final word on this subject. Let this be in your thought process continually.

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LAND ACQUISITION CONSIDERATIONS

This is another reason why I do not want you to get too far in the homebuilding process. You need to make good decisions on where you want to build. We talked about this in the appraisal section. Do not purchase any property (lot or acreage) until you can answer the following questions to your satisfaction.

If you have already purchased property, do not move forward with the building process until these same questions are answered. The worst thing that could happen is that you might have to sell the property in order to buy one that is more desirable. That is a much better situation than plowing forward and wasting time and money.

Will you be able to receive clear title to the property?

How important is that? You do not want to get involved with a piece of property if it has any liens on it. Maybe there’s a dispute involving heirs. Do not get involved in any verbal agreements to purchase property. I do not care if it involves a neighbor, friend, or family member; you are putting your relationship with them in jeopardy. There are capital gains tax issues involved. The terms, contract for deed, contract for sale, and land contract generally mean the same thing (but not always). You will be making installment payments on the land no matter which of the three terms is in the contract. Make sure that the contract is structured so that you have immediate benefits and burden of ownership. You want the right to own, use, and possess the property as you see fit. The seller retains the title of the property until the terms of the contract have been fulfilled. All sales transactions must be properly formatted for your geographic area (have a real estate attorney in your geographic area review the documents before consummating the deal). All sales documents should be notarized and recorded at the county clerk’s office.

Are the homes in this neighborhood worth at least as much if not more as the home you want to build?

If the answer is no, then get away from that property. It is ideal for the appraisal on your home to be toward the lower end of what the values of the homes are in the neighborhood. For example, you want to build your home in a community of $500,000 homes, and your appraisal comes back at $400,000; you can see that, based on an 80% loan-to-value ratio, you would be able to borrow $ 320,000. Now you can get the $309,000 you needed from the previous example. It also helps if there are recently completed homes or current construction underway in your neighborhood.

Will the deed restrictions in your subdivision prevent you from building the type of home you want?

Most deed restrictions that I have read will only approve homes that are compatible with the other homes in the neighborhood. For example, I worked with a couple of my customers who had blueprints for a beautiful log home they wanted to build. They had already purchased a 5-acre estate lot in a very nice subdivision. When I met with this lovely couple, I asked them if they had received approval from the architectural control committee. They said they had not. I broke the news to them that their log home, as beautiful as I know it would have been, would probably not be allowed to be built. Obviously, they were very disappointed. I told them to check with the committee and let me know what they found out. Sure enough, they called me back and said that I was right. They would not be allowed to build it. I asked them what their plans were now. They said they were going to sell the lot and go find another one where they could build their dream home. Now that is all well and good, but they lost $5,000 in the sale.

Are there any utility easements or other building setback requirements that would prevent you from building all the amenities on your lot?

Secure a copy of the property survey, if there is one. If one is not available, get a copy of the plat. If the seller does not have a copy of the plat, you should be able to secure one at your county records department.

Is your property going to drain water properly or hold water?

Actually, the best time to look at properties to purchase is during a heavy rainstorm. You need to determine if the property sheds water or holds it. This shouldn’t be a problem to figure out if it’s pouring down rain I have repeated and expounded on this issue in the land development section. This can affect your construction budget.

Will the size of the home I want to build fit on my lot and still leave enough room for future improvements?

I have seen many homes built on lots that were too small. They were so close to both side property lines that they would not have been able to get any construction equipment into the backyard—for example, building a future swimming pool.

Does your prospective neighborhood have a private gated entry?

If it does, then you can expect that the properties are going to be worth more.

Is the neighborhood well maintained?

It is not hard to tell if the residents take pride in their homes. Maintaining high standards in your neighborhood maintains higher values, and this helps everyone.

Does your prospective neighborhood have fire hydrants?

I would hate to think you would have a fire, but it sure would be reassuring to know that, if you did, the fire department would have the facilities to be able to put the fire out. If you have a swimming pool or pond on your property, the fire department could draw water from those sources to extinguish the fire.

Are you going to be convenient to shopping areas?

Some people want to be close to shopping, and some do not really care. I guess it depends which member of the family you talk to.

Are you going to be within a reasonable distance to your workplace?

This is a tough call. Many people do not mind commuting extra distance if everything else satisfies their requirements.

Are you going to be in a desirable school district?

I believe this to be an important issue with many parents. It is a novel idea, but wouldn’t it be great if your children actually received a good education?

There are so many things to consider when buying property. I have touched on some of the main ones. The point of these discussions is to open your mind to the understanding that there are many variables to consider when purchasing property. Some of these variables can affect the amount of money that can be borrowed in order to build your home.

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LAND DEVELOPMENT CONSIDERATIONS

The following questions have to do with land-development issues. These obviously can have a tremendous impact on your construction budget.

Which of the following questions do you believe are relevant to your property?

Are you going to need trees removed in order to build?

Keep in mind that you will have to remove enough trees to have the room to build the home and provide a minimum of a 20-foot clearance around the foundation in order to prevent tree root migration. In addition, you are going to need enough room for any future outbuildings, a possible future swimming pool, a septic system, a driveway, and a yard. The point is you need to think through about all the improvements that you eventually want to do on the property.

Is your property going to drain water properly or hold water?

As previously mentioned, the best time to look at properties to purchase is during a heavy rainstorm. This gives you the opportunity to see how the property sheds water and in what direction. This is important because you are going to want to position your home on the property in such a way that water will drain away from the foundation. If your lot is sandwiched in between two adjoining lots, you need to find out quickly if your property is low and holding water.

Will you need to bring in fill dirt?

The answer is maybe. If the property is low, which can be due to a number of reasons, considerable amounts of fill dirt may have to be spread in order to elevate your property. This cost can go into the thousands of dollars and obviously affect your construction budget. By affecting your budget, it can have a bearing on the size of the home you can build.

Are you going to need a culvert?

Many people will need a culvert. A culvert is simply a pipe made from concrete, steel, or polyethylene and is usually from 12 to 36 inches in diameter for most residential applications. It is normally installed in a drainage ditch in order to let the natural flow of water pass through it unobstructed. It makes it possible to construct a driveway over it in order to gain access to your property. This is just one more land development cost issue that must be addressed if your budget is going to reflect all costs.

Do you have suitable construction access to the job site?

This question usually applies to building on acreage. I have built many homes for customers on acreage properties. Invariably, I would ask them up front this one simple question: How far from the road do you want to build your home? A number of them would say they wanted to place the home 500 or 1,000 feet or more from the road. This is an important question because it can have a huge impact on their construction budget.

The farther you are from the road, the more cost is involved in building a stable construction access you must have in order to support the weight of concrete trucks, etc. They also need the room to turn around once at the site. In addition, you are going to need a suitable base for the storage of building materials and parking. This is the staging area.

A good road base will have to be built in order for construction vehicles to have access during inclement weather. Preferably, you want to build the construction road where your completed driveway is going to be.

In addition to access issues, the distance from the main road can increase the budgets for finish driveway costs and utilities installation. Think everything through very carefully before you decide to place your home extraordinary distances from the main road.

Will you have to pay to install electrical service?

The answer is maybe. If you are going to be building on a developed lot, chances are your local power company will install the power transformer and provide you with overhead service to your home at no charge to you, as they know that you are going to be a bill-paying customer. If, however, you decide that overhead service is not desirable or your neighborhood does not allow it, then you would have to pay additional costs in order to run underground wiring from the transformer to your home. This cost generally ranges from hundreds of dollars upwards of several thousands of dollars.

If you are going to be building on acreage, and you are going to be far from the road as discussed earlier, then you are going to have to pay a pretty hefty bill. Your local power company may install the first few power poles at no charge. After that, you have to pay. That bill can easily run into many thousands of dollars.

One worthy note: If you believe that your house is going to require an unusually high electrical demand, you may need larger service brought in. This may involve installing a different transformer and/or main house service. Most homes today generally have a minimum of 200-amp service. You may need much larger service. One way you can determine this is by providing your master electrician with a complete set of the plans for your house. He can then do a load analysis and determine if you will need upgraded service. Yes, it will cost more to increase the size of your service, but you need to determine it now before you apply for your loan. Timing is everything!

Temporary construction power

Before you are able to start building, you are going to need the electrician to install a T-pole (see page 60). This is a temporary assembly that will be energized with an electric meter. Once the home gets to a certain point of construction, the T-pole can be removed and permanent house power installed.

Will you have to pay for the installation of gas service?

Usually, the plumbing contractor, as part of his contract, will install all the gas piping in the house. These gas lines will terminate at all your proposed gas appliances, such as a clothes dryer, range/oven, fireplace, and water heaters. The plumber will then run the main gas line outside and terminate it in the location of where the gas meter will be. At the appropriate time, the gas company will install the meter and connect the gas line to it. This service is generally done at no cost or at minimal cost to you (with some exceptions).

Note: If you are going to have gas appliances that will consume unusually large amounts of gas, you may need a larger diameter gas main and gas meter than what is normally installed. A master plumber should be able to do a gas load analysis based on the Btu rating of the appliances including water heaters, swimming pool heaters etc. This should be discussed in the budget-making process of the job, as there will be additional costs for larger meters and internal gas piping. This could be a huge problem later if you do not bring this to your builder’s attention now. Timing is everything!

Will you have to pay for sewer and water service installation?

The answer is a definite yes. In most areas of the country, your utilities are going to fall under the jurisdiction of the city in which you reside or a local municipal utilities district (MUD). If the property you want to purchase has access to sewer and water service, then you normally are going to pay what is referred to as an “impact fee.” This fee is paid in order to connect to these facilities. In simple terms, this is a fee to cover the cost of system improvements caused by new development.

These impact fees are paid in advance in order to obtain a building permit to start construction. Here is how the installation normally goes. The utilities department will send out one of their approved bonded contractors to perform a sewer tap. (They do not want some hack to start beating on the concrete sewer main with a sledgehammer, which I’m sure you can understand.) After the tap is completed, which is part of your fee, then you will have to have your plumber or other approved installer run the sewer line from the house stub out to the tap. To install this sewer line is an additional charge above and beyond the impact fee. Given these facts, you will need to discuss the sewer issues early in the budgeting process. The impact fees alone can cost you in the hundreds of dollars to thousands of dollars depending on where you are located. We’ll discuss these charges in the budgeting chapter.

Note: If you know that you are going to want to have high-water-volume plumbing fixtures, such as body sprayers, jets, rain showerheads, etc., you may need to have a larger diameter water main line installed to your house. Generally, if you do not raise this issue, your district will install a 3/4-inch-diameter water meter. You may need a one-inch meter or larger depending on your needs and demands. I always suggest to my students and customers that they install a minimum of a one-inch diameter water service. If it is determined that you will need a larger diameter water meter, there will be an additional charge for that. Once again, the plumber will have to install the water line from the house stub out to the water meter. Installing the water line is not part of the impact fee. We’ll discuss these charges in the budgeting chapter.

It seems on the surface that you are getting tattooed left and right with these pricing issues. Remember, not all of these situations will pertain to you, but if you are not addressing these possibilities now, you may have a nightmare on your hands later. Any of these scenarios will affect your construction budget.

It is imperative to get a handle on all the issues that may arise in your homebuilding process before you start. When you go to the lender to get a construction loan, you want to make sure you are getting enough money to cover all the details. I know most of you have heard the saying, “The devil is in the details.” I can tell you from experience that it has never been truer than when you are building a home.

Will you have to install a septic system?

You will if you are going to be building on unimproved property. In many parts of the country, the state or local municipalities will require a registered sanitarian or other approved person to design the system. A septic system is a sewage-treatment facility. The state in which you are residing would not appreciate sewage effluence being discharged in an uncontrolled manner. You need to meet the sanitarian or other approved designer at your property and discuss the location of the home, outbuildings, and future amenities, such as a swimming pool, etc. The sanitarian can then draw the design showing the location of sprinkler heads, tanks, and lines. You will pay the sanitarian a fee for this design. You are going to need it in order to get a building permit. There are different types of septic systems for special situations. We’ll discuss costs in the budgeting chapter.

Will you have to install a water well?

Many folks are going to need a water well. It could be that they are building on unimproved lots or on rural property. Here is where you are going to need the services of a state-licensed well driller. They’ll know how deep they have to drill to get to the best drinking water. Water depths are different throughout the country. Here in the Houston area, we have several layers of water. In the northern outlying areas, you will need to drill 300 to 400 feet deep to get to the best drinking water. In the coastal areas, you will need to drill 800 to 1,000 feet deep to get to the best drinking water. Consequently, the deeper water will be the most stable water supply during prolonged droughts. The shallow wells could dry up during a prolonged drought.

We’ll discuss costs in the budgeting chapter.

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CHAPTER 2

PLANS AND DESIGN ISSUES

INTRODUCTION

This is a motivating chapter for prospective home builders because it involves those areas that really arouse their interests. Planning your new home together is a fun thing to do, but does require attention to detail. Take some time and review the glossary of terms for home design and architecture. It will be time well spent. Obviously, we cannot cover in this book all architectural issues, but rather some highlights. There are volumes of books written on this subject.

GLOSSARY OF HOME DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE TERMS

Adobe: A term widely used in the southwestern United States and Spanish speaking countries. Although the word is often used to describe an architectural style, adobe is actually a building material. Adobe “bricks” are usually made with tightly compacted earth, clay, and straw. However, construction methods and the composition of the adobe will vary according to climate and local customs.

Antebellum: Means “before war” in Latin (The term Antebellum architecture refers to elegant plantation homes built in the American South during the 30 years or so preceding the Civil War. Antebellum is not a particular house style. Rather, it is a time and place in history.)

Architrave: The lowest part of an entablature (Resting directly on the capitals (tops) of the columns; the architrave supports the Frieze and Cornice.

Figure 2- Illustration at right of a classical entablature showing the architrave, the frieze, and the cornice

Austin Stone: A type of stone named after the stone quarries in Austin, Texas (Natural Austin stone is set in orderly rows or irregular patterns.)

Balcony: A supported exterior protrusion on a building’s facade of the floor level; typically large enough for a few people to stand (Railings are used to contain the area. May be covered or uncovered by a roof, awning or an upper floor balcony.)

Figure 3-Photos of two different gables with vergeboards

Bargeboards (vergeboards): Hang from the projecting end of a roof. Bargeboards are often elaborately carved and ornamented. Homes in the Carpenter Gothic style have highly ornamented bargeboards. They are also known as fly rafters, gable rafters, gable boards, barge rafters

Board and batten: A type of exterior siding or interior paneling that has alternating wide boards and narrow wooden strips; called battens (The boards are usually (but not always) one foot wide. The boards may be placed horizontally or vertically. The battens are usually (but not always) about 1 1/2 inch wide. These battens are placed over the seams between the boards. Reverse board and batten has very narrow boards with wide battens installed over the seams.)

Butterfly roof: Shaped like a butterfly’s wings, a butterfly roof dips down in the middle and slopes upward at each end (Butterfly roofs are associated with mid-century modernism.)

Figure 4-Photo of butterfly roof

Chimney pot: Placed on top of the chimney to inexpensively extend the length of the chimney, and to improve the chimney’s draft (A chimney with more than one pot on it indicates that there is more than one fireplace on different floors sharing the chimney.)

Figure 5-Photo of chimney pots

Clerestory: A high wall with a band of narrow windows along the very top (The clerestory (pronounced “clear story”) wall usually rises above adjoining roofs.)

Figure 6-Photo of clerestory wall

Corbel: An architectural bracket or block projecting from a wall and supporting (or appearing to support) a ceiling, beam, or shelf. (A corbel can be made of wood, plaster, marble, or other materials,)

Figure 7-Illustration of corbels

Column: An upright pillar or post (Columns may support a roof or a beam, or they can be purely decorative.)

Corinthian column: A column style developed in ancient Greece and set down in the Classical Orders for Architecture. The Corinthian style is more complex and elaborate than the earlier Doric and Ionic styles. The capital, or top, of a Corinthian column has lavish ornaments carved to resemble leaves and flowers.

Figure 8-Corinthian column

Cornice: The uppermost section of moldings along the top of a wall or just below a roof (In Classical architecture, the cornice is the upper portion of the entablature, located above the architrave and the frieze.)

Figure 9-Photo of cornice

Cupola: An ornamental structure placed on the top of a larger roof or dome (In some cases, the entire main roof of a tower or spire can be a cupola. More frequently, however, the cupola is a smaller structure that sets on top of the main roof.)

Figure 10-Photo of a cupola

Dentil (moulding): One of a series of closely spaced, rectangular blocks that form a molding Dentil molding usually projects below the cornice, along the roofline of a building. However, dentil molding can form a decorative band anywhere on the structure.)

Figure 11-Photo of dentil around a porch overhang

Doric: The earliest and most simple of the Classical Orders set down in ancient Greece (A Doric column is much plainer than the later Ionic and Corinthian column styles. A Doric column is also thicker and heavier than an Ionic or Corinthian column.) In ancient Greece, the shaft would have set directly on the ground, without a base.

Figure 12- Doric column at right

Dormer: A window that is set vertically on a sloping roof. The dormer has its own roof, which may be flat, arched, or pointed. The dormer shown here has a gable roof.

Figure 13-Photo of dormers

Eave: The edge of a roof (Eaves usually project beyond the side of the building.) Some buildings, such as Craftsman Bungalows as shown in photo at right, have very wide eaves with decorative brackets. In home construction today, the eaves are the horizontal overhangs. The sloping overhangs are referred to as the rakes.

Figure 14-Illustration of eaves detail

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Fanlight: A semicircular or semi-elliptical window over a doorway or another window Federal or Adam Style homes often have fanlights.

Figure 15-Photo of a fanlight

Figure 16-Illustration of elaborately carved frieze below a band of dentil molding

Frieze: A horizontal band that runs above doorways and windows or below the cornice (The frieze may be decorated with designs or carvings.)

In Classical architecture, the frieze is part of the entablature, located between the architrave and the cornice.

Gable: The triangle formed by a sloping roof (A building may be front-gabled or side-gabled.) The house shown here is crossgabled — It has a gabled wing. Porches and dormers may also be gabled.

Figure 17-Illustration of gable

Gambrel roof (Dutch gambrel): a usually-symmetrical two-sided roof with two slopes on each side (The upper slope is positioned at a shallow angle, while the lower slope is steep.) This design provides the advantages of a sloped roof while maximizing headroom on the building’s upper level. The cross-section of a gambrel roof is similar to that of a mansard roof, but a gambrel has vertical gable ends instead of being hipped at the four corners of the building. A gambrel roof overhangs the façade, whereas a mansard normally does not.

Figure 18-Photo of a Gambrel roof

HardiPlank and HardiPanel: Brand names for fiber cement siding manufactured by James Hardie Building Products (The fiber cement siding is made from Portland cement mixed with ground sand, cellulose fiber, and other additives.)

Hip (or hipped) roof: Slopes down to the eaves on all four sides (Although a hip roof is not gabled, it may have dormers or connecting wings with gables.) When the building is square, the hip roof is pointed at the top like a pyramid. When the building is rectangular, the hipped roof forms a ridge at the top. A hip roof has no gable.

Figure 19-Photo of a hip roof

Ionic column: One of three column styles developed in ancient Greece (More slender and more ornate than the earlier Doric style, an Ionic column has scroll-shaped ornaments on the capital, or top.) Features of an Ionic column:

Stands on a base of stacked disks

Shafts are usually fluted, but can be plain

A pair of volutes (scroll-shaped ornaments) decorates the capital

Figure 20-Illustration of Ionic column

Mansard roof: A four-sided gambrel-style hip roof characterized by two slopes on each of its sides with the lower slope, punctured by dormer windows, at a steeper angle than the upper (The roof creates an additional floor of habitable space. The upper slope of the roof may not be visible from street level when viewed from close proximity to the building.

Figure 21-Photo of Mansard roof

Oriel window: Projects from the wall and does not extend to the ground (Oriel windows originated as a form of porch.) They are often supported by brackets or corbels. Buildings in the Gothic Revival style often have oriel windows.

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Figure 22-Photo of Oriel window

Palladian window: A large window that is divided into three parts (The center section is larger than the two side sections, and is usually arched.) Renaissance architecture and other buildings in classical styles often have Palladian windows. On Adam or Federal style houses, there is often a Palladian window in the center of the second story.

Figure 23-Photo of Palladian window at left

Pilaster: A rectangular support that resembles a flat column. The pilaster projects only slightly from the wall, and has a base, a shaft, and a capital. The detail showing pilaster strips with capitals surrounding the front door on a Cape Cod house.

Figure 24-Photo of pilaster door trim at right

Straw bale homes: Are homes constructed of bales of straw that became popular in the American Midwest when pioneers discovered that no amount of huffing and puffing would blow down hefty bales of straw and grass

(Architects and engineers are now exploring new possibilities for straw bale construction. Modern day “pioneers” who are building and living in these homes say that building with straw instead of conventional materials cuts the construction costs by as much as half.)

I hope you found the glossary of design and architectural terms interesting. By no means is this a complete list. That would be a book unto itself. It was important for those of you that have had no exposure to home building or architecture, to get a sampling of the unlimited possibilities in your home design. Perhaps, this will really peak your interest into delving more into it.

On the next page, we are going to take a look at some different architectural style homes. Remember, in planning your own home you can mix different styles together but they should be compatible.

Now, you’ll be able to tie the glossary and the photos of the different homes together to help give you a more complete picture of what you might like.

After you view the photos, we will get into the intricacies of design.

A-FRAME

An A-frame is an architectural house style featuring steeply-angled sides (roofline) that usually begin at or near the foundation line, and meet at the top in the shape of the letter A. A-frame houses have many of the following features: Triangular shaped, front and rear gables, deep set eaves, 1 ½ or 2 ½ stories, large windows on front and rear facades, small living space, and few vertical wall surfaces. A-frame homes cost less to build than most all other homes.

Figure 25- Photo of an A-frame home

Figure 26-Photo of an A-frame home

AMERICAN COLONIAL

American colonial architecture includes several home design styles associated with the colonial period of the United States. Colonial homes are simple homes by design. The home is symmetrical inside and out. Usually, nine windows are located at the front of the house, five on the second floor and four on the first floor.

Decorative crown molding is often seen above the front door. Pillars may stand as sentinels on either side of the front door, guarding a small but significant front porch. The door opens up to an entryway that leads to the main room. The staircase is central and all rooms branch off from the main room.

Figure 27-Photo of an American Colonial home

Figure 28-Photo of an American Colonial home

FRENCH COLONIAL

The French Colonial style home is the only style home that originated in North America. French Colonial homes reflected the artistic French culture, with tall, narrow windows and doors, hipped or gabled roofs and shutters.

Figure 29-Photo of a French Colonial home

Figure 30-Photo of a French Colonial home

SPANISH COLONIAL

Developed with the earlier Spanish settlements in the Caribbean and Mexico, the Spanish Colonial style in the United States can be traced back to St. Augustine, Florida, the oldest established city in the country, founded in 1565. Spanish Colonial homes are generally made of stucco with smooth adobe walls and chimneys and red-tiled roofs.

Figure 31-Photo of a Spanish Colonial home

Figure 32-Photo of a Spanish Colonial home

DUTCH COLONIAL Developed from around 1630 with the arrival of Dutch colonists to New Amsterdam and the Hudson River Valley in what is now New York. Initially the settlers built small, one room cottages with stone walls and steep roofs to allow a second floor loft. By 1670 or so, two-story gable-end homes were common in New Amsterdam. Dutch Colonial homes added steeply pitched gambrel roofs, split doors or batten doors and chimneys on either side of the house.

Figure 33-Photo of a Dutch Colonial home

Figure 34-Photo of a Dutch Colonial home

GEORGIAN COLONIAL

Georgian buildings, popular during the reign of King George III in England were ideally in brick, with wood trim, wooden columns and entablatures painted white. In the United States, however, one found both brick buildings as well as those in wood with clapboards. They were usually painted white, though sometimes a pale yellow. This differentiated them from most other structures that were usually not painted. A Georgian colonial house usually has a formally-defined living room, dining room and sometimes a family room. The bedrooms are typically on the second floor. The Georgian Colonial style home features a rectangular, symmetrical design.

Figure 35-Photo of a Georgian Colonial home

Figure 36-Photo of a Georgian Colonial home

BUNGALOW

A bungalow is a type of house, with varying meanings across the world. Common features of many (but not all) of these definitions include being detached, low-rise (single or one-and-a-half stories), and the use of verandas.

Other features of a bungalow could include: Broad eaves with exposed rafters, low pitched roof, lots of windows and doors to exterior porches or verandas, open floor plan with front entry opening directly into the living room.

Figure 37-Photo of a Bungalow home

Figure 38-Photo of a Bungalow home

CAPE COD COTTAGE

A Cape Cod cottage is a style of house originating in New England in the 17th century. It is traditionally characterized by a low, broad frame building, generally a story and a half high, with a steep, pitched roof with end gables, a large central chimney and very little ornamentation. Traditional Cape Cod houses were very simple: symmetrically designed with a central front door surrounded by two multi-paned windows on each side. Homes were designed to withstand the stormy, stark weather of the Massachusetts coast.

Modern Cape Cod architecture still draws from colonial designs.

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Figure 39-Photo of Cape Cod cottage

Figure 40-Photo of Cape Cod cottage

AMERICAN CRAFTSMAN

The American Craftsman Style, or the American Arts and Crafts Movement, is an American domestic architectural design. The Craftsman Bungalow is noted for using modest square footage to maximum advantage. Floor plans typically minimize hallways or eliminate them entirely. Most original Craftsman homes have less than 1,000 square feet of livable space. The space-efficient footprint allowed families to live comfortably in modest square footage. With the green movement of today, many builders are returning to Craftsman-like floor plans to maximize space and minimize the need for building materials.

Figure 41-Photo of an American Craftsman bungalow

Figure 42-Photo of an American Craftsman bungalow

RANCH HOMES

Ranch-style housing (also American ranch, California ranch, rambler or rancher) is a domestic architectural style originating in the United States. The ranch house is noted for its long, close-to-the-ground profile, and minimal use of exterior and interior decoration. The houses fuse modernist ideas and styles with notions of the American Western period working ranches to create a very informal and casual living style.

Figure 43-Photo of a Ranch home

Figure 44-Photo of a Ranch home

SALTBOX

A saltbox is a building with a long, pitched roof that slopes down to the back, generally a wooden frame house. A saltbox has just one story in the back and two stories in the front. The flat front and central chimney are recognizable features, but the asymmetry of the unequal sides and the long, low rear roof line are the most distinctive features of a saltbox, which takes its name from its resemblance to a wooden lidded box in which salt was once kept.

Figure 45-Photo of a Saltbox home

Figure 46-Photo of a Saltbox home

TUDOR HOMES

In modern structures, usually on estates of private houses, a half-timbered appearance is obtained by applied decorative features over the “real” structure, typically wood stud framing or concrete block masonry. A combination of boards and stucco is applied to obtain the desired appearance, here seen in the upper image to the right. To minimize maintenance the “boards” are now commonly made of PVC plastic or fiber reinforced cement siding with a dark brown or wood effect finish. In the United States, the style is often further modified by painting the timbers colors such as blue or green. The Tudor Revival style was most popular for new American homes in the 1970s and 1980s. Today, it is rarely considered for residential construction in that country as Italian, Mediterranean, and French villa style homes have superseded them in popularity.

Figure 47-Photo of a Tudor style home

Figure 48-Photo of a Tudor style home

COUNTRY FRENCH:

A distinctive style that combines utilitarian concepts (like butcher block countertops) with decorative furniture pieces. Country French design often features iron, exposed bracketing, open shelving, and simple cabinetry styles. Country French homes have beautiful steep-pitched roof lines and frequently make use of brick and stone on the exterior. This house style lends itself to some very creative home design possibilities. Curved stairways, round turrets and lots of bays (both angled and curved) are frequently seen with this style of home.

Figure 49-Photo of a Country French home

Figure 50-Photo of a Country French home

PLANTATION HOMES

The principal house of a plantation in the antebellum American South, typically having many of the following characteristics: two stories; a projecting two-story portico with Classic columns and a recessed central bay; thick brick walls at ground level (often stuccoed); in areas having a high water table, a raised basement, which often served as the location for service facilities, pantries, a wine cellar, servants’ rooms, and sometimes for a dining room; a spacious veranda extending along the façade at the second-story level where the air circulation was much better than at ground level, and often along the sides and the back as well; many tall French windows for cross-ventilation.

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Figure 51-Photo of a Plantation home

Figure 52-Photo of a Plantation home

VICTORIAN

Victorian-era homes can homes in eastern American cities tending to be three stories and those in western American cities tending to be two-story houses or one-story cottages. In some regions of the country, this is not representative of a typical Victorian-era home in all regions.

Although the general public often incorrectly refers to a Victorian-era house as a Victorian-style house, Victorian era refers to a time period and not to a style. Although architectural historians generally agree that about eight primary architectural styles are prominent in the United States and Canada during the Victorian era, Victorian-era residential architecture in the United States and Canada was a procession of styles borrowed from every country and every era in history.

Figure 53-Photo of a Victorian home

Figure 54-Photo of a Victorian home

FRENCH PROVINCIAL

Balance and symmetry are the ruling characteristics of this formal style. Homes are often brick with detailing in copper or slate. Windows and chimneys are symmetrical and perfectly balanced, at least in original versions of the style. Defining features include a steep, high, hip roof; balcony and porch balustrades; rectangle doors set in arched openings; and double French windows with shutters. Second-story windows usually have a curved head that breaks through the cornice.

Figure 55-Photo of a French Provincial home

Figure 56-Photo of a French Provincial home

COUNTRY HOMES

Its large wraparound porch home usually can sum up general characteristics of the exterior of the country style. Large higher pitched roofs present the look and feel of the cottage. This style of home is also referred to as a southern style home.

On the inside, walls are more frequently wainscot with high ceilings finished in crown molding. Windows are finished with chair molding continued from the wainscot. Molding is usually painted country white, and walls normally are finished in light cool or earth tone color. Floors are almost always hardwood or wide plank heart pine typical to most historical country homes found throughout the southeastern states.

Figure 57-Photo of a Country home

Figure 58-Photo of a Country home

MEDITERRANEAN HOMES

The best way to identify a Spanish/Mediterranean house is by the following characteristics. Exterior walls are usually stucco or brick, often painted white or cream to contrast the roof of the home. The roof is generally covered with terra cotta or brightly colored roof tiles, and would normally have a low-pitched gable or hipped roof. Another distinguishing characteristic is the extension of the side or front wall to form a courtyard entrance or porch. Windows are sometimes casements, framed by wooden or wrought iron grills or second story balconies.

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Figure 59-Photo of a Mediterranean home

Figure 60-Photo of a Mediterranean home

CONTEMPORARY HOMES

Large windows and asymmetrical structures characterize contemporary design. Due to this, there is often not much variation in the roof lines because they are typically flat. Each wall and each area is different. Contemporary houses may also have some smooth curves incorporated into the design. Simplicity is the most important design aspect of contemporary homes. The design should have open rooms that flow into each other, and décor should be minimalist. Doors should blend in with the rest of the house and not stand out. All aspects of the house must be kept as simple and uniform as possible.

Figure 61-Photo of a Contemporary home

Figure 62-Photo of a Contemporary home

FARM HOUSES

Originally designs for the farmhouse were created exactly for that purpose, agricultural life or living on a farm. The farmhouse needed to be spacious with larger kitchens and storage for family provisions to start the farmer and his family out on their daily activities of running the farm.

Rooms were more often larger than an average home’s room, especially the kitchen where the family would all come together for their meals. Bedrooms too were slightly larger than a standard bedroom to accommodate brothers, sisters, or other siblings that lived and worked on the farm.

The roof of a farmhouse has gables that are shingled or covered with tin. However, gables of a standard farmhouse will face in several directions as opposed to a standard gabled roof that only faces one direction. The farmhouse home style is always two stories with a partial or whole wraparound porch that normally is as tall as the first story.

Figure 63-Photo of a Farmhouse style home

Figure 64-Photo of a Farmhouse style home

Let’s begin at what I call the “dreaming stage.” You and your spouse start scanning through home design books. You see all the beautiful homes and the wonderful floor plans. You might even visit new model homes (just to take a peek, of course). These stimulations are wonderful, but you do not want to lose sight of the fact that your budget will bring you back to reality real quick.

I never could quite understand why some people look at the amenities of million-dollar homes when their budgets require them to be looking at something far less. I teach my students to look at and study homes that are in the price range of their budget. Do you remember when we talked about drop-dead budgets and net available construction funds? Maybe you should review that again to refresh your memory. There’s a reason why we talked about that first. It was to keep you from starting down the wrong path by making bad decisions based on the “dream impulse.”

The time has come that you make the decision to get house plans. Okay, however, let’s first have a discussion about what kind of home you have decided on. Could the architecture of the home affect your budget? The answer is yes. Follow me with this. Let’s take two different 3,000-square-foot floor plans and set them side by side. The one on the left is a one-story ranch-style home. The one on the right is a two-story 1880s-era Victorian home. Each customer wants to be true to the architecture of their respective homes. Keep in mind that they are both 3,000-square-foot plans. Which one would cost more? If you answered the Victorian home, give yourself a pat on the back. This home would cost tens of thousands of dollars more to build than the ranch-style home. One of the reasons is that the Victorian home has a much more elaborate exterior facade. It has a tremendous amount of ornate roof cornice detail. It will have decorative spindles and moulding around the porch. Not only will it have a very steep pitched roof, it will have expensive slate roof shingles, which were the material of choice in the 1880s. Another reason for the cost difference is the interior of a Victorian home has very ornate moulding as well. The spiral staircase itself will be very extravagant. Now you know that it is not just the square footage that determines the cost of a home. It is also the style of the home.

I think it was worth doing this little exercise before we go back to discussing your plan. Did this example of the two different style homes cause you to rethink your ideas about your home? Maybe we kept you from making an ill-advised decision.

I’m going to assume a few things as we go into the design issues:

You have obtained copies of your credit reports from the three major credit agencies. You are satisfied that your credit reports are okay as they are, or you are in the process of getting them corrected.

You have done your research as it relates to your drop-dead budget, land acquisition, land development concerns, and how long you are planning on living in the home.

You have an understanding of the size and style of home you want as it relates to your net available construction funds.

Do not move forward if you do not have a firm grip on the previous three issues. You are at a critical point in the process. If necessary, go back to the beginning and try it again. We have to stop everything we are doing right now and talk about definitions for the term square footage. Throughout the book, you will see this term being used as a basis for costing. It can be a very confusing term because it means different things to different people. Let’s try this example: You want to build a one-story, 3,000-square-foot, three-bedroom, and two-bathroom home with a two-car attached garage. Of course, you are going to have a covered front porch and back porch. This is not an unusual scenario. In addition, you would like to have the plans reflect approximately 400 square feet of bonus area in the attic that you may decide later to convert into a game room.

Here’s where you have to stay alert and not doze off. The 3,000 square feet is the gross living square footage and is defined as all the square footage of the acclimatized area measured from the outside of the foundation in all directions. If you subtract the thickness of any brick veneer, exterior and interior walls, and the dead space from the gross footage, you will wind up with the usable living square footage. This is probably going to be about 2,600 square feet. I know this can get confusing, so let’s go backward and try this from a different angle.

I have had a number of people in past years who wanted me to help them design a home. I gave them a homework assignment and asked them to bring me a list of all the rooms they wanted with their preferred dimensions. They were told to be as thorough as they could. As I reviewed the list, I see they listed the following:

Foyer 8’x 10’

Kitchen 12’ x 18’

Walk-in pantry 6’ x 6’

Breakfast area 8’ x 12’

Dining room 14’ x 16’

Family room 18’ x 20’

Office/study 16’ x 16’

Master bedroom 16’ x 16’

Master bath 12’ x 16’

Master closet 12’ x 14’

Second bedroom 12’ x 12’

Closet 4’ x 6’

Third bedroom 12’ x 12’

Closet 4’ x 6’

Second bathroom 10’ x 12’

Utility room 8’ x 10’

They totaled up their desired dimensions, and the square footage was 2,420. They looked at me somewhat perplexed. They just knew they listed everything. So why was their total not coming up to the 3,000 square feet that they wanted? I told them they’d done exactly what I’d asked them to do and that they’d done a good job. They were just missing some key ingredients. I proceeded to tell them that they needed a hallway, and that would account for about another 100 square feet or so. That brought the number up to 2,520. The next thing was to explain to them about the thickness of the exterior walls, partitions, coat closet, and dead space that would be built into the plan. This number would be approximately 500 square feet. This brings the total up to 3,020. Congratulations, they met their goal.

The previous example is something that many of you will do. Never lose sight of the fact that you are always going to have that built-in unusable space factor. Does this address all the issues concerning square footage? The answer is no.

Remember that our example blueprint had a two-car attached garage, a covered front porch and back porch, and an attic bonus space. We have to factor in the individual square footage for each of them. Let’s assume that the garage is 24’ x 24’ = 576 square feet. The front porch is 10’ x 16’ = 160 square feet. The rear porch is 14’ x 20’ = 280 square feet. And the attic bonus space is 20’ x 20’ = 400 square feet. The total of these four areas is 1,416 square feet. When you add 1,416 on to the 3,020, your total framed square footage is 4,436.

Do you see the difference between the living space square footage and the total framed square footage? A number of sub-contractors will charge for their service by the square feet of living space while others such as the framing carpenter will charge you by the total framed square footage. Later, as you are negotiating with sub-contractors, you will have to ask them how they charge for their work.

How important are blueprints?

This is one of the four most important construction documents that will have to be submitted to the lender. The other three are specifications, cost breakdown (budget), and the construction contract (which we’ll cover later). The more comprehensive the plans are drawn, the more accurate the bids and/or budget will be. Leaving the plan open to interpretation invites chaos down the road. The prices from builders and/or subcontractors will be all over the board. The choices you make in how you are going to obtain the blueprints, and how complete they are, can weigh heavily on how accurate the pricing is you can achieve.

How involved would you like to be in the design process?

This question depends upon how much time you or your spouse has to be able to devote to this process. This I do know: The plans should fit your lifestyle and construction budget. Your input can have extreme influence in the outcome.

Should you buy ready-drawn plans from a magazine, online, or other sources?

This is a great question. Here is how I always answer it. Many people are inclined to buy their own plans. The theory is they can save money. In many cases, that can work, but in many cases, it will not. Let me explain to you how it could work. If you are not going to make any significant structural changes to the plans, it could work. If you are not going to make any significant electrical changes to the plans, it could work. You have to be happy with the plan in every way; commit to not making any changes and this idea could work.

Now let me explain to you how it will not work. If you are going to want to make structural changes, like moving the walls, expanding or decreasing the size of the plan, then it will not work. If you want to change the locations and/or type of lighting and switches, then it will not work. If you want to make these kinds of changes, you affect every page of the blueprint to the point where the entire plan has been rendered useless. The plan will have to be redrawn. At that point, you did not save anything. It may, in fact, wind up costing you more than if you had the plans drawn by a professional from the beginning. One last piece of information about an ordered plan: They do not come with a buildable foundation plan. What they may come with is a conceptual foundation plan (sometimes known as a “forming plan”).

Remember, these ordered plans, in many cases, were drawn in a different part of the country than where you are going to build. Soil conditions vary from one part of the country to the next. The topography of your particular building site may dictate special foundation considerations. (We talked about this in the land development section of chapter one.) You will need to have your foundation plan designed and sealed by a registered structural engineer. In many parts of the country, you will be required to have a soil test conducted as a prerequisite. This is performed by a geotechnical engineer. These are costs you are going to have to incur no matter what. We will be discussing these issues again in future chapters.

Should you have a home designer or an architect design and draw the plans?

If the concept of ordering your plans will not or did not work for you, then you will need the services of a professional. Home designers and architects both provide a very valuable service. I bet you are wondering what the difference is between them. A home designer and an architect can both assist you with the design of your home. You could meet with them on a periodical visit. Both would welcome your input. Both could draw very good plans for your home.

As it pertains to residential drawings, the biggest differences between an architect and a home designer are as follows: The architect is required to have a college degree. The home designer is not legally required to have a college degree or any type of certification. My suggestion is if you are going to hire a home designer, you want them to be a member of the AIBD (American Institute of Building Design) and perhaps the NCBDC (National Council of Building Design Certification) and CPBD (Certified Professional Building Designer). These certifications provide more accountability.

The registered architect can provide many services, such as job costing and securing and awarding bids for your project. They can oversee the construction of the entire project. The home designer generally does not perform these services. As a result, the architect usually costs more than the designer for his or her services. Here are a few questions I would like you to ask of the person you are considering to design your home.

Do you have any field experience building or supervising the construction of homes?

This could be a real plus for you. That person can readily relate to the issues found on the construction site.

Are you knowledgeable about current homebuilding costs?

This is the best way I know to keep your budget under control as much as possible during the design stage. Here is what I would recommend. If the house is going to be less than 10,000 square feet, and budgeting is a concern, I would use the service of a certified home designer. Remember, I said that both could draw very good plans. The biggest issue is that the plan be drawn in close proximity to your budget. In this case, you may need to have someone who is knowledgeable about current house construction costs to review the plans at various progress intervals. The idea behind this is to keep the house plans from getting out of control, price-wise. It will not do you a bit of good to have a beautiful set of house plans drawn, only to find out that it will cost half again the amount of your budget to build. I have seen many house plans like this. The only thing you can do with them then is to use them as wallpaper.

How often will you be able to have input into the design process?

What is the point if you cannot have control over your own destiny? Remember, this is your hard-earned money going into this project, not theirs. Do not give them too much money up front. You do not want them to lose interest in your home prematurely. Get them to give you a time schedule when they believe that they will advance the design to the next checkpoint. If you cannot get the answers you need in order to make you feel confident about the design process, then get someone else. You will probably save yourself a whole lot of aggravation, not to mention time and money.

Neither the architect, the home designer, nor the builder will be able to do any engineering. You will still need the services of a registered structural engineer to design the foundation and certify the framing, if required. This is probably as good a place as any to talk about the structural engineer. We have mentioned several times about the need for a structural engineer, but we did not get into a discussion about liability issues as it pertains to the engineer.

After an engineer affixes his seal to a foundation plan or framing plans, there is an implication of liability. For example, if an engineer seals a foundation plan and then the foundation suffers a failure. As long as it can be determined that the plan was built exactly as the engineer designed it, the engineer may have to assume culpability for damages arising from the failure. If any changes are made to the foundation without the express written consent of the engineer, then it is possible that the engineer can be held blameless in the event of a failure.

Question: What happens if one of the workmen at the job site makes changes to the engineer’s foundation plan and the foundation has a failure? Now we get into a forensic foundation analysis to determine if the unauthorized change resulted in the failure. To me, this appears to be headed to court for a shootout. In the meantime, who is not getting their house built? You guessed it—you the customer. Who is at fault? In this case, there’s a good chance that fault will fall on the builder. The builder is responsible for supervising all phases of the work. The worker was performing a work function under the direction of the builder. My opinion is not meant to circumvent the role of the court and render a judgment, but what I want you to realize is that this homebuilding thing can get out of control with one misstep. The really sad fact is that this was preventable. Do not make any changes to the engineer’s plans without written authorization from the engineer. To do so could put you at extreme risk.

What is the best approach of starting the house-plan process?

Here is what I always recommend to my students. Start the design process off by making the plan smaller than your objective. For example, you want to build a 3,000-square-foot home. Start the drawings at 2,500 square feet, because after you start making adjustments (tweaking) here and there, you are probably going to end up close to your target square footage anyway. If you start off drawing a 3,000-square-foot home, you are still going to want to make adjustments. Guess what? Now you are up to 3,500 square feet; it is human nature. You are just going to have to trust me with this one. Never lose sight of your construction budget.

The plans need to be in compliance with applicable building codes and local ordinances.

There are requirements that have to be addressed in the plans, such as emergency egress, safety glass in windows, natural lighting, windstorm construction, fire stopping, stair construction, and framing material requirements, just to name a few.

What constitutes the fundamentals of a complete set of plans?

They are as follows with an explanation.

Foundation plan

To reiterate, this should be designed and sealed by a registered structural engineer. Some states will permit a civil engineer to seal the plans. Before the engineer can design the foundation, he needs to have a couple of documents to review. One is a complete set of house plans, and the other is a soil test report. We mentioned the soil test earlier in the book. If the foundation is going to be a concrete slab, then the foundation plan should show the locations of any utilities that will be stubbed up out of the slab. These could be things such as floor plugs, plumbing and electrical for a kitchen island, etc. These utilities should be located by referencing dimensions from the outside perimeter of the foundation.

As it relates to the floor plugs, you have to commit to where the furniture is going to be located. The plugs need to be located where they will be close to the furniture. This means that you and your designer need to meet and discuss furniture location as it relates to the floor plugs. The dimensions can then be drawn on the foundation plan and made available to the electrician so he can make the installations. Too many times these installations are overlooked until after the concrete foundation is complete. Breaking through the finish floor later to make the installations is a mess. This is just a precautionary measure to make sure they are not forgotten.

Framing plans

The framing plans contain all the criteria and dimensions for the carpenter. These include such things as dimensions from one wall to the next, dimensions to the center of window and door openings, and dimensions of rough openings for windows and doors. These plans include any structural detailing and notes for the carpenter. They also include what size framing members go where and how far apart they will be spaced. This touches on a few elements of the framing plan.

Sectional views

These cutaway views show the carpenter the specific elements of a particular section of the home. It is as if someone took a saw and cut all the way through the home at various locations to expose the structure. This can be an invaluable asset to the carpenter.

Ceiling and roof framing plan

This is another valuable resource for the carpenter. With this information, he knows which way the ceiling joists and roof rafters run, how far apart they are spaced, and what size of which material should be used.

Elevation views

This shows the carpenter as well as other relevant subcontractors how the home is supposed to look after it is completed. These views are drawn from all four primary directions.

Electrical plans

This shows the location of all the light fixtures, wall switches, wall plugs, under-cabinet lighting, smoke detectors, vent fans, and much more. Do not let anyone try to take a short-cut and combine the electrical plan with the floor plan. The plan will get too confusing.

Site plan

This shows the lot with the outline of the home, garage, and any other structures that are being built as part of the builder’s contract. The plan shows the outline of the driveway, sidewalks, and any other concrete improvements. In addition to all the structures, the plan will show the dimensions of the lot lines, utility easements, setback requirements, and major utilities placement. It is better to show the elevation gradients of the property on the plan. You then know which way the property will drain and the grade variance for the foundation. In addition, the plan could show such things as septic tanks and sprinkler head locations as well as future swimming pool and outbuilding locations. Knowing these things can impact where the system is installed now. If there is going to be a lawn sprinkler system installed, PVC sleeves should be shown on the site plan passing under the driveway and sidewalks at various locations. This will make it easier later to slide the sprinkler lines or other installations under the concrete obstacle. The site plan can be a very valuable resource during the period of time when a construction budget is being formulated. This particular example I just described impacts no less than eight different budget categories. Included in the plan are general notes, legends, calculations, and any other pertinent information, which will be placed on the appropriate pages.

I described the fundamental components of a plan. Here are a few additional issues that I will bring up for you to think about.

Are there going to be stairs in the home?

If there are, here is some good advice for those of you who are going to be in your home a long time. In a two-plus-story home the stairs need to be designed into the home first. It is going to take a minimum horizontal distance to make the stairs fit into the floor plan properly. This horizontal distance is called the “run.” Climbing stairs should not be a laborious chore, especially as we get older. This means the riser (vertical distance of each step) should be at a comfortable height. The maximum riser allowed is 7 3/4-inches. My recommended maximum riser height should be between six and seven inches.

The only downside to this is it is going to require more steps and a greater “run” to get the stairway to fit properly. So be it. This subject needs to be discussed very early in the design process.

Is there going to be any attic space that you may want to convert into future living space?

If there is, the designer needs to know about it now. The framing below will probably have to be upgraded now in order to support the proposed weight. In addition to the framing issues, the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning) system/ductwork will have to be installed and routed away from that future space. This avoids costly relocation expenses later.

Are you planning on having your home wheelchair accessible?

It is always a good idea to make sure that at least one bathroom in your home is designed to be wheelchair accessible and functional. This means that all interior doors of your home should be wide enough to accommodate a wheelchair. The shower should also be designed and built where a wheelchair could be rolled into it. This concept of wheelchair access is not just in the event of getting old; this could be for any member of your family who has had an accident and may have to spend time recuperating in a wheelchair. You will find out quickly that this was a good move on your part.

If you are going to have a two-story home, are you contemplating installing an elevator?

More and more people are starting to put elevators in their homes for various reasons. I have installed them in homes leading from the basement garage up to the main floor. The customers could put all their groceries in the elevator and hoist them up to the kitchen without having to climb the stairs. Of course, we put them in two-story homes for wheelchair folks who would like to have full access to the second floor. Their facilities could now be upstairs instead of downstairs.

You do not have to install the elevator now. You simply could have the designer incorporate the space for the elevator into the plan, and there would be very little cost up front. In the meantime, you would have two very nice closets with a breakaway floor in between them. All you need to do is contact your nearest residential elevator company and have them send you the dimensional requirements. The framing carpenter will frame the elevator opening and door openings. The electrician then has to install a phone line, 110-volt line, and a 220-volt line that terminates in the attic. In the future, should something happen that would force you to install the elevator, you are ready to go.

There are a number of design issues that need to be addressed in a house plan. Let’s mention some of them starting with safety issues first. We will cover the specifics of these items in Chapter 8.

Egress-Each sleeping room and basement requires at least one emergency escape and rescue window if there is not a door leading from those areas directly to the outside.

Safety glazing-This is required in a number of situations where glass is located.

Stair and handrail requirements-These involve minimum requirements involving headroom, tread width, tread depth, riser heights, handrail, and baluster spacing.

Ramps-Maximum slope requirements

Natural lighting requirements

Minimum room dimensions and ceiling height

HVAC, plumbing, and electrical requirements

The house designer will have to take these and many more issues into consideration.

The person you select to put all of your wants, and desires into a buildable format can greatly affect your budget. Choose this person very wisely. It is a far better situation to spend more for the plan, if you receive all the aforementioned considerations, then it is to buy into a cheap plan that leaves too many questions unanswered, and could cost you a lot more money than you planned on.

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CHAPTER 3

DESCRIPTIONS AND EXPLANATIONS

INTRODUCTION

I know you want to make informed decisions that affect your home. The problem has been to have all the information in one place for you to review. That problem is solved; The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding lays out the relevant information of every budget item. Read this chapter first and you will be making decisions based on facts, not impulse. The information supplied may get you to start thinking outside the box. At the very least, it should give you the incentive to do some more checking before making your decisions on what goes into your home.

Many of the categories have a number beside them and are in red print. These are the master categories, and they correspond to an identically numbered category of the same name and color in the scheduling forms and supervision sections of the book. This was done in order to keep all three in sync with one another and make it easier for cross-referencing. The unnumbered categories in blue print are support items/activities, such as materials, permitting information, engineering, inspections, building codes, insurance, etc. The support items are essential for the successful completion of the master category.

A few of these categories may not pertain to your project, but most will. Some of these items will not require a lot of descriptions or explanations, while some of them do. Pictures and diagrams have been provided in order to clarify and improve your understanding of each category. I do not attempt to sell you on any particular brand names although I may refer to a specific brand as an example. That is up to you to decide. When you have completed reading this chapter, you will have a good idea of what each construction category entails, and you will be ready to develop your own specifications.

1-SITE EVALUATION

Site evaluation is an inspection of your property. A home builder, or a former home builder, a civil engineer, or any person who is knowledgeable about site conditions can do this for you. They can advise you on such things as surface water drainage, tree removal, plausible location of utilities, access to the site, and positioning of the home, etc. This service can be very helpful in developing a site plan. Some of these things you might be able to figure out for yourself.

2-SURVEY

You need to have a survey of your property to provide to the lender. Lenders generally do not accept a survey that is older than about six months. Before you order a survey, check with your lender first for their requirements. You would not want to waste money on something you may not need. If you are building in a developed subdivision, you can obtain a copy of the plat or an older survey in order to start doing preliminary site layout work. The fee the surveyor will charge you depends on multiple factors, such as the following: Has the surveyor surveyed this property before? If so, maybe all they need to do is refresh the boundaries and make sure the property irons are still there. In this case, the fee would be less. How large is the property? It will cost much more to survey acreage versus a subdivision lot. How far from the surveyor’s office is your property? Obviously, driving time will affect the fee.

3-SOIL TESTING

This test is conducted by a geotechnical engineer. Borings of the soil are made at the site. Usually, the borings are made to a depth of 15 to 20 feet, but they can be much deeper. I have always recommended that the soil testing be conducted on the exact spot where your foundation is going to bear. I have seen cases where the soil conditions change dramatically from one spot to another within 100 feet. I experience this situation twice over the years. Do not borrow a soil test from a neighbor for the same reasons. If your foundation location is relatively flat, locate the borings diagonally as far apart as possible. If it has significant slope to it, locate the borings at the highest and lowest elevation. This should give you the greatest representation of the varying conditions. The soil sample will be analyzed in order to determine its load-bearing capability and other factors. A copy of this report will have to be given to the structural engineer, whose foundation design will weigh heavily on the contents of the report.

4-BLUEPRINTS AND FOUNDATION DESIGN

I’m more concerned about how comprehensive and accurate they are versus how cheap they are. The fee for blueprints is generally based on the gross square footage drawn. At the beginning of the design process, no one knows how many square feet your home is going to be. You can discuss with the designer what your approximate desired living square footage needs to be. Ultimately, based on your requirements, the exact square footage will become known. I equate this to water; it will seek its own level. That number is how you will be charged.

One thing you need to know for sure is that all structures are part of the design process. These can include garages, porches, and bonus room space. These areas added to the living space equal the gross square footage.

It cannot be overstated the importance of comprehensive blueprints. The better the blueprints are, the more accurate the pricing will be. Be very cautious of cut-rate deals on blueprints; it could cost you a lot of money.

The most important part of the home is the foundation. I think everybody would agree with that. The way to make sure that the foundation will withstand the test of time is to have it properly designed by a structural engineer. The engineer will need a copy of the soil test report and a complete set of house plans in order to arrive at a proper design.

I have observed many builders and homeowners in past years who said the foundation was very important, but their actions said otherwise. They would not get a soil test report or an engineered foundation plan. The small amount of money you spend to ensure the foundation is correct will seem like chump change if something goes wrong. The builder may no longer be in business. The purpose of the foundation design is to neutralize any conditions at the job site that would inherently cause unusual foundation movements. This design includes analyzing the loads that are going to be placed on it. Only a registered structural engineer is best suited for this responsibility.

5-BUILDING PERMITS

Before you draw closer to actually needing a permit, you need to find out from your governing permitting authority what requirements (documentation) are necessary in order to obtain the permit. You will also need to find out the cost of the permit(s) and record that number in your budget.

The building permit is your authorization to begin construction. Failure to obtain a permit can result in significant fines and penalties, and even demolition of unauthorized construction if it cannot be made to meet code. The HVAC, plumbing, and electrical contractors obtain their own permits. Many building permits have a schedule of inspections associated with them and will have to be posted at the job site.

SEPTIC DESIGN-subcategory of building permits

A septic system is a small sewage-treatment plant, which are regulated by state or local municipal authorities. According to the environmental protection agency, one in every four homes uses a septic system. There are different systems for various situations. You need to talk to a reputable septic installer in your area for advice on which types of systems are commonly used. The septic contractor will supply all the material and labor. Let’s discuss some of them. The septic system installer or the registered sanitarian will be responsible for obtaining the septic permit. In many cases, the building permit will not be issued until the septic permit has been approved.

Gravity septic systems

Gravity septic systems are common in homes. They consist of a two-compartment septic tank. The two compartments prevent solid waste from contaminating the drain field. Gravity septic systems also provide biological treatment for products that are filtered out of drains.

Low-pressure distribution systems

Unlike gravity septic systems, low-pressure distribution systems use dosing chambers and networks of small pipes that evenly distribute wastewater in drain fields, reducing the saturation of fields.

Aerobic-treatment systems

Aerobic systems work by adding oxygen by an infusion of fine air bubbles to accelerate the sewage treatment in septic tanks. The aerobic bacteria increase the production of high-quality wastewater before the byproducts are treated and disposed. This septic design can be drawn by a registered sanitarian or other state authorized person. The best course to follow is to meet the septic designer at the job site. Discuss things such as the location of the house, outbuildings, possible swimming pool, and any other future amenities that could be affected by the location of the tanks and/or spray heads. You really do not want to dig up your yard in the future to reroute any of these lines. A little pre-planning will reward you later. The septic designer will supply you with multiple copies of the design in order for you to be able to get a septic/building permit. You generally cannot get the building permit without the septic permit. For more information about septic guidance, manuals, and policies, visit www.cfpub.epa.gov/owm/septic/index

BUILDERS’ RISK INSURANCE-subcategory of building permits

This is a necessary insurance. Builders’ risk insurance covers things such as fire, theft, vandalism, and other acts of God while the home is under construction. There are varying deductibles offered. All lenders require this coverage as a condition for obtaining a construction loan. In most states, you purchase a 12-month policy. Your state may or may not reimburse you for any months of unused premium. Remember, the assurance of the home being built is the lender’s only asset. You want to check with companies that offer builders’ risk insurance for rates and coverage particulars. This policy does not cover personal injury coverage to workers, etc. If you are going to be your own builder, and you do not need to borrow any money, you still need this coverage. You could suffer a catastrophic loss. You need to contact an insurance agent or broker to find out about getting this coverage.

GENERAL LIABILITY INSURANCE-subcategory of building permits

As it pertains to homebuilding, this coverage is for the insured. The insured could be the home builder or you acting in the capacity of the builder. This insurance applies when negligent acts and/or omissions result in bodily injury and/or property damage on the site. The policy should also contain coverage for completed operations. A problem may not manifest itself into a claim until long after the work is complete. Lenders may or may not require general liability insurance, but you as the home owner/builder should require this to be mandatory for the project. After all, you want to minimize your exposure to litigation. Contact an insurance agent or broker to find out about getting this coverage.

WATER AND SEWER SERVICE-subcategory of building permits

Water and sewer services are not often thought of in terms of house planning or decision making. We just take it for granted that this is an automatic, no input process. In reality, there are several decisions that need to be made.

Simply put, a tap is made into the water main for your house. They will install a junction box at some location usually near your property line. The tap line will terminate inside the box. It will remain capped until you are ready for service. At that point, a water meter of some diameter is installed. Let’s talk about the size of this water meter.

In a normal subdivision environment, the distance from the water main to your house is not an issue. In many cases, your city utilities or municipal utilities district will automatically install a 3/4-inch meter. This size of service may or may not be adequate for your home. What circumstances could influence your decision? Are you going to have high-water-volume fixtures in your bathroom? For example, multiple body jets/sprayers, rain showerheads, etc. Is there going to be more than one person using the water at the same time on numerous occasions? Is there going to be a lawn sprinkler system? Do you think that you may be adding another bathroom or two in what is now bonus space area?

If you answered yes to two or more of these questions, then I urge you to upgrade the size of your water service to a minimum of one-inch diameter. I know that the fees will be higher, but if you find out after the fact that you are lacking water volume and/or pressure, what will it be worth then?

A couple of other issues worth mentioning are the locations of the water and sewer taps. In some cases, the taps are already made, and you will not have any say in it. Depending on how your house is positioned on the property, these existing tap locations may be problematic. If the taps are in the wrong locations, this could increase the lineal footage of water and sewer lines that need to be run to the house stub outs. It may cause one or the other to be run under driveways or through valuable tree root systems. The point is, if you have the opportunity to determine the locations of the taps, by all means do so. Take time to think about your layout in coming to those decisions.

BUILDERS’ BOND-subcategory of building permits

This may be known by other names but means the same thing. Many subdivisions may want the owner/builder to pay a damage deposit for any damage to subdivision property. This could be for such things as sidewalks, curbs, streets, greenbelts, etc. This fee is returned upon completion of the home once it is determined that there is not any damage or damage has been repaired satisfactorily.

BUILDING CODES AND STANDARDS-subcategory of building permits

For many years in homebuilding, there has been a wide range of building codes and standards. In the United States, three primary building codes were used, depending on which area of the country you were in. They were the Building Officials Code Administrators International (BOCA), the Southern Building Code Congress International (SBCCI), and the International Conference of Building Officials (ICBO).

In an effort to combine the various code groups into one, the International Code Council (ICC) was formed in 1994 to develop codes that would have no regional limitations. In 2000, as a result of this council, the International Building Code (IBC) and the International Residential Code (IRC) were formed. The IRC codebook covers one-and two-story homes and townhouses up to three stories tall. Building codes establish minimum construction standards. They do not ensure quality and efficiency. Let me give you an example.

Let’s say your foundation is under construction and is ready for inspection. The building inspector will be making sure that the elements of the foundation, as approved by the building department, have been installed in compliance with the code. He does not go out there and check to see if the foundation is square, level, and dimensionally correct. Your foundation could wind up being all screwed up but still be in compliance with the building code. Got the point?

The subject of building codes is always in a state of flux and open to misinterpretation. The best thing to do if you are planning to build a home is to call the local governing body that has jurisdiction over the property where you are going to build. They should be able to tell you which building codes are being used and if any changes are or will be going into effect. There will be other codes in effect for HVAC, plumbing, electrical, septic systems, water wells, wetlands, and others. It can be very confusing. Your state-licensed contractors, such as HVAC installers, plumbers, and electricians, will all have to be in compliance with their respective codes.

After having said all that, what if you are going to build in an area where there are no building codes in force? In fact, all you may need is a county permit, and you are ready to go. What do you do then? The answer is simple. You, as the owner/builder, establish the guidelines by which to build. My suggestion is to go online and look up the building codes that your state adopted. You can order the books online. Use those building codes as the minimum guideline as it pertains to fire, safety, and health. You are going to have to be the building inspector, because there’s no one else to do it. How does the thought of that sound?

In addition, you can establish a minimum construction quality standard by using the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. I use these guidelines in my own business. It never fails that, once in a while, a customer will be unsatisfied with something in the home as it is being built. Residential Construction Performance Guidelines were designed to put an end to arguments in establishing a set of base guidelines for construction. It also describes corrective techniques if the construction does not meet the baseline standard. It covers construction performance standards for site work, foundations, interior floor construction, walls, exterior finishes, the roof, plumbing, electrical, interior climate control, interior finishes, flooring, fireplaces and wood stoves, garages, landscaping, and much more. These guidelines offer achievable minimum levels of workmanship for the products delivered. It should be noted that these construction guidelines were not meant to supersede building codes, but rather to be a supplement to them. You can order building codebooks and the construction guideline book online.

BUILDING INSPECTORS AND INSPECTIONS-subcategory of building permits

The building inspector’s role in your home is not the cure-all for potential problems. Your building department will mandate a schedule of inspections that have to be followed. All the inspections in the world will not uncover many issues in the home. We discussed in building codes that the inspector’s job is to enforce the minimum building code as it was reflected on the approved house plans. We discussed how the foundation may not be level, square, or dimensionally correct but still pass inspection. I know that probably does not give you a warm and fuzzy feeling, but those are the facts. This situation is further exacerbated when you are building in an area that does not even have inspections.

You are then the building inspector. As we suggested, you can get help in that area by hiring the structural engineer to inspect the foundation two or three times while it is under construction. Again, that does not solve the problem of the foundation not being level, etc. You can get additional assistance by hiring an independent inspection firm to inspect the home at various stages of construction. A good firm or individual can inspect the foundation, framing, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, etc. You can call around and get some information on pricing and inspection packages. You can do all of these things, but a lot can still go wrong in between inspections. At the end of the day, it still comes down to that one indispensable ingredient—supervision. There simply is no substitute for good-quality, timely supervision. We’ll cover the techniques of supervising in Chapter 8.

6-TREE REMOVAL AND SITE CLEARING-This could be an allowance item

Keep in mind that you will have to remove enough trees to have the room to build the home and provide a minimum of a 20-foot clearance around the home. You are going to need additional room for any future outbuildings, a swimming pool, septic system, a driveway, and a yard. The point is you need to think through about all the improvements that you eventually want to do on the property.

It is very important to make sure that you are absolutely clear on where the utility easements, house, driveway, outbuildings, and future amenities are going to be before the tree removal operation begins. After all the necessary trees are removed, it would get very expensive to have the contractor return to take out more. The best price you are going to get is for the first tree removal operation. The pricing to remove trees fluctuates greatly depending on the size of the property and the number of trees. Note-If you are clearing a large area and have a large quantity of what is referred to as lumber grade trees, you may be able to sell the trees to a logging company.

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Figure 65- Tree removal with excavator

7-SITE FILL AND ROUGH GRADING-This could be an allowance item

This is the dirt that may need to be trucked into the site. It will be used to reshape the contour of the building property. This is one of the reasons why you want a thorough site evaluation, preferably before you buy the property. This item could be a sizable budget. There are times when people think they are getting a good deal on a piece of property, only to find out that it needed inordinate amounts of fill dirt. The cost of dirt is measured by the cubic yards.

The average dump truck will hold about 12 yards of dirt. This is the grading that makes it possible to start doing preliminary lay-out work. It is normal to use a small bulldozer to do the work. The operator spreads any site fill materials or reshapes the existing soils in preparation for construction.

Figure 66- Site clearing with bulldozer

8-ACCESS ROAD

We have mentioned the importance of the access road in a previous chapter. The process of constructing a good all weather access road will involve bulldozing, subsurface preparation, and suitable road base material that will have to be spread. You want to build a road that can withstand the heavy weight of construction equipment. The road also needs to be able to withstand prolonged rain without breaking down or becoming mushy.

The cost of building an access road will depend mainly on how long the road is and the quality of the existing material. If you are building on a subdivision lot, then you probably will not need more than about five or six loads of crushed granite or crushed limestone to create suitable access. Crushed concrete is available in many areas but does not work well if the soil underneath is not stable. Stone is charged by the ton. You are better off if you have a contractor do a turnkey operation.

9-CULVERT INSTALLATION

The first step is to identify the governing authority and determine if there are permits and fees involved. Not all areas require them. If you are building on privately maintained roads, the culvert could be installed by a contractor you would hire. If the road you are building on is a county-maintained road, the county may prefer that they install it for this reason. When they originally constructed the drainage ditches, they established what is referred to as the unsilted flow line. This flow line ensured that the water would flow through the ditches unimpeded. Over time, silt forms in the ditch that alters the flow line. This condition is known as the silted flow line. When a culvert is installed, it is important that it be set to the elevation of the original unsilted flow line. The county engineering department has records of the elevations.

You would still have to buy the culvert pipe and the soil to embed it with. The county does the installation. Of course, you have to find out if this is the procedure in your county. If you have to provide the contractor, then you have to make sure that he will install the culvert to the original flow line. Sooner or later, the county is going to clean out the ditches, and if the culverts were installed at random elevations, you could have drainage problems. Should your culvert have to be installed on a state highway, the state highway department will decide what type of culvert installation is acceptable and what inspections may be required.

Figure 67- Photo of concrete culvert

10-PRELIMINARY SITE LAYOUT

The builder goes to the site and establishes the location of the foundation. This does not necessarily have to be exact but should be very close. If a basement hole is going to be dug, perimeter stakes have to be set. Grade stakes have to be established in order to determine how deep the hole will be. If this is going to be a shallow foundation, then the area where the foundation will be bearing has to be marked and grade stakes established. In addition, existing surface soils have to be removed, and estimates have to be done to determine how many cubic yards of underfill material have to be trucked in. Consideration for where the excavated earth will be stored and/or placed will have to be taken into account as well. Usually, the superintendent will do the layout work himself. If you are acting in the capacity as your own builder, you may need to pay a fee for this service.

11-TEMPORARY POWER

Once you have awarded the bid to the electrician you are going to use, execute the following installation. The power company installs an electrical transformer at your property either on a utility pole or a ground-mounted box. You should have already met with the power company field representative to discuss location issues. You need to call the power company and open up an account with them as the billpaying customer. At that time, you can inform them that the electrician is preparing to set a temporary power pole (T-pole). The next thing that needs to be done is to have your electrician install the pole near the transformer. There will be rules that govern how far away the T-pole can be set from the transformer. The T-pole will have a small breaker panel and a meter box on it. The electrician will call the power company to come out and inspect the T-pole. If everything checks out okay, they will install an electric meter in the meter can. You are then energized with temporary building power. The monthly bills will come to your current address.

Figure 68- Temporary power pole (T-pole

12-WATER WELL-This could be an allowance item

A well consists of pipes extending into the ground through which groundwater is drawn from an aquifer to the surface. The well casing supports the walls of the well so that rocks and debris do not enter. The space between the outside of the well casing and the inside of the borehole must be sealed to prevent well contamination. A slurry of cement or clay, called grout, is used to seal this space. In water-bearing sand and gravel formations, a well screen may be installed at the bottom end of the casing to prevent small particles from entering the well. In well structures without a screen, water from the aquifer enters the well at the open lower end of the casing or through the joints between the casing sections. The upper portion of the groundwater is brought to the surface via the pump and pipe assembly.

Figure 69- Well drilling rig

The proposed location of the water well needs to be shown on the site plan. Many of you will have to have water wells. In most cases, the water would be used for personal consumption. Sometimes you might have to drill a well for irrigation or livestock. Whatever your reason for needing a well, you need the advice of a reputable well-drilling contractor in your area. Your local well driller will be familiar with the drilling depths required for various qualities of water. They can advise you on the size of the pump needed, etc.

Here are my words of wisdom when locating the wellhead.

Never locate a well in an area that may be subjected to groundwater contamination. Groundwater contamination could be caused by seepage from landfills, faulty or failed septic tanks, underground fuel tanks, fertilizers, pesticides, animal urine, fecal matter, and runoff from urban areas. You always want to encase the well casing with a concrete slurry mixture to seal the shaft and help prevent well contamination. Check with your well driller; I bet he already does that.

Try to locate the well in a location that is accessible for service in all kinds of weather. If the well pump goes out of service and the service truck cannot get to it because it is too muddy, then that was not great location planning. Do not drill the well next to a small tree sapling today and find out later that the sapling has turned into a much larger tree. Then you might have to disfigure the tree by cutting substantial limbs off it when you need to raise the service derrick over the wellhead. Can you say the words plan ahead?

Figure 70- Water well head and storage tank

Try to locate the water tank in your garage or someplace where you have to pass by it frequently. You will recognize the sound that it makes when things are operating normally, and likewise, you will know when things do not sound right. You may be able to head off potential serious problems by making these frequent observations.

13-CONSTRUCTION WATER

Once you have awarded the bid to the plumber you are going to use, execute the following installation. Schedule the plumber to make a temporary connection to the water meter and mount a water faucet (hose bib). After that is accomplished, a garden hose can be hooked up and used for a variety of chores. After this installation is complete, you will be receiving a monthly bill for water usage. If you are going to have a water well, get the well drilled as soon as possible and connect pump to temporary power supply. Have the plumber install a hose bib at the well and connect a garden hose. The point is to get construction water on site as fast as possible.

Figure 71- Temporary water tied into the water meter

14-BASEMENT EXCAVATION

We refer to the basement as a deep foundation. Excavation is the process of removing earth from its existing position in order to construct a foundation or other related construction activity. This is the first step in constructing a basement.

The excavation contractor with the right pieces of equipment can do a lot of different jobs, such as setting culverts, tree removal, and all types of grading, demolition work, and building roads on site. He needs the following pieces of equipment: dump truck, backhoe, track excavator, front-end loader, bulldozer, sheepsfoot compactor, and a skid-steer loader.

Figure 72- Basement excavation with a track excavator

Figure 73-Illustration of basement excavation

15-SHALLOW FOUNDATION DIRT WORK

Shallow foundation site work is the process of preparing the site for the placement of a slab or pier and beam foundations. This preparation involves a number of processes, such as scarification, excavation, proofrolling, loose-fill placement, and compaction, just to name a few. Let’s describe briefly the steps. Scarification removes organic material and other debris from the area of the foundation. Excavation involves removing some of the existing soils that may be considered undesirable for construction. Proofrolling is the process of driving back and forth over the excavated area with a heavy pneumatic-tired vehicle in an attempt to locate any soft areas that need to be compacted. Loose-fill placement is the actual process of spreading suitable underfill material in layers that are about 8 inches in thickness. Note in Figure 74 the bulldozer spreading the fill. Compaction is the actual compressing of each layer of fill in order to make it suitable to build a foundation on. Note in Figure 75 the sheeps-foot actually compacting each layer. The layering and compaction process will continue until the pad has reached the desired height. Preparing the site for a shallow foundation requires compacting layers of suitable soil until it reaches the desired height. Upon completion of this developed pad, we can start laying out the foundation for forming or drilled piers but I don’t want you to start either of these operations until the pad has been tested for the proper amount of compaction. This test is referred to as the Proctor test. In order to pass the test, the compacted fill must achieve at least 95% full virgin compaction. This is not difficult to achieve if care was taken in the compaction operation. The test will be conducted by a geo-technical engineer. The company that performed the original soil test can do the Proctor test.

The steps in developing a proper foundation pad cannot be over emphasized. The totality of this operation may determine the success or failure of the foundation.

Figure 74- Spreading select underfill with a bulldozer

Figure 75- Compacting select underfill with a sheeps-foot

FOUNDATION UNDERFILL-subcategory of foundation site work

In many cases, the existing soil at your building site is not good construction soil to bear a foundation on. It may be too weak such as a loam soil. It may be too unstable and have undesirable shrinking and swelling characteristics, hence the need for a specific foundation soil. This is a special soil that is suitable for bearing a foundation. It has minimum shrinkage and expansion characteristics. This type of material may or may not be found at the job site. It normally has to be ordered and trucked to the job. At that point, it is be spread and compacted as per the discussion in shallow foundation site work. Foundation underfill can be appropriate for different types of foundations. This material is discussed again in foundation construction.

16-CONRETE PUMPER TRUCK

This pumping operation pertains to the drilled piers. We will expound on pumper trucks a little later.

17-DRILLED PIERS

Drilled piers are referred to as a deep foundation. Piers are used mainly because it was determined that the surface soil conditions are too unstable to place a shallow foundation. The engineer makes that determination by analyzing the soil test report. He can determine which type of pier is best and/or the depth at which the pier needs to bear. The piers are used to support the grade beams and structure. Different types of piers can be employed, such as drilled bell-bottom piers, straight shaft friction piers, and pilings. The engineer also determines the spacing of the piers to ensure that the loads will be distributed equitably on the foundation.

In a typical drilled bell-bottom pier, the driller will drill a hole that is 12 inches in diameter to the proper depth as determined. Once the shaft has been drilled, another attachment is lowered down into the hole and forms a bell-bottom. For a 12-inch-diameter shaft, the bell-bottom will usually be 24 inches (a two to one ratio) or 36 inches (a three-to-one ratio). The next phase involves lowering reinforcement steel cages into the shaft, followed by pouring the concrete into the shaft, which encapsulates the steel. That is the essence of one type of pier.

Figure 76- Tying steel cages for drilled piers

Figure 77- Drilling pier shafts

Figure 78- Installing bell bottoms in pier shafts

Figure 79- Completed drilled pier-top view

ENGINEERING INSPECTIONS-subcategory of drilled piers and foundation construction

We discussed the importance of having a proper foundation design. It is equally as important to have the foundation inspected by the engineer while it is under construction. There are several key inspections that, if performed in a timely manner, can keep you out of a lot of problems. In homebuilding, there’s nothing worse than a foundation failure.

If the foundation design calls for drilled piers, then a drilled-pier inspection needs to be performed. During this inspection, the engineer can measure the drilling depth, check for proper steel placement, and check for dirt cave-in or migration of water. The main foundation will be bearing on the piers. Need I say more?

As it pertains to the main foundation, my suggestion is to have a minimum of two inspections. One is what I refer to as an excavation inspection. This inspection allows the engineer to see the soils that the foundation is going to be bearing. This inspection makes sure that the foundation will be at proper bearing depth and the beams have all been excavated and located per the design. The second inspection is what I refer to as the steel inspection. At this point, all the elements of the foundation are in place and ready for concrete. The engineer can inspect that the reinforcing steel is of the correct strength grading, sized correctly, spliced, and spaced according to the design.

One must be prepared to stop the concrete pour if the engineer determines that there are too many violations to continue. In this case, corrections will have to be made, and the engineer will have to do a reinspection. The concrete pour will have to be rescheduled. You may also want the engineer to be at the site during the concrete pour. This gives them the opportunity to make sure that the concrete is of the proper mix, and no unnecessary water is being added. Adding too much water to concrete weakens the mixture and reduces the strength.

Each type of foundation, whether it is a basement, pier and beam, or monolithic slab, will have a particular set of inspection details unique to that foundation. No builder wants to go through these inconvenient inspection delays, but the homeowner does not want to be left holding the bag, either. After all, whose money is paying for all of this?

Before I forget, here is another suggestion for you: Obtain a camera that takes good, clear pictures. Take multiple close-up photos of the foundation during all phases of construction and from all angles. These pictures can be a very valuable record should you have the need to refer to them later. Need I say more?

18-TOILET FACILITIES

You will need to make arrangements to have one of these beauties placed on the job site just before the foundation construction begins. Don’t get it to the jobsite too early as it will probably be in the way. Usually, the rental costs from one company to another are going to be pretty close. The monthly cost should include cleaning the facilities once a week. They will need to be cleaned twice a week during periods of heavy use. You can really get an education inside one of these space ships. Maybe it would be a good idea for you to check out the graffiti inside before you let your family use one of these things. The artwork can be very controversial. The toilet needs to remain on the job until all the interior finish work has been completed.

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Figure 80- Temporary toilet aka field office

19-BARRIER FENCING

You may need to place some orange plastic temporary fencing and metal T-poles around trees you are trying to protect. You will also want to install it around the job site to keep trash from blowing around the neighborhood. Again, this is one of those family things you may decide to do. If you decide not to, then the builder needs to do this (for a fee, of course).

Figure 81- Barrier fencing-Chamber’s residence

20-TRASH CONTAINER AND DEBRIS REMOVAL

A trash container needs to be in placed on the site before construction begins. If you wait until material gets delivered, there may not be any room left to maneuver the container. The container must be positioned in such a way as to make it possible to switch containers during construction.

This budget should be inclusive of all necessary waste containers and periodical cleaning of the exterior and interior. In a 3,000-square-foot home, you will need at least four 40-yard roll-off waste containers. In addition, you are going to need seven major clean-out operations. The home should be cleaned out after each of the following completed operations:

     Framing

     HVAC, plumbing, and electrical rough-ins

     Drywall

     Finish carpentry

     Painting

     Flooring materials

     HVAC, plumbing, and electrical finish

All subcontractors should be advised to keep their trash picked up and placed in the waste containers. Notifying all subcontractors in advance that they may be penalized a couple of hundred dollars or so if they don’t clean up their own trash will stop them from doing this. I assure you of that.

One additional note about cleaning: Not only does it make the site look nice, but it makes it safer and more organized. I have judged many builders by how clean they kept their job sites looking.

Figure 82- Best way to get trash into containers

21-JOB SITE SECURITY

It is a good idea to try to make some provision for controlling the access point onto your job site. The issue is theft of materials. How you protect yourself from theft depends on how your property is situated. The best scenario is one in which you have a lot of trees ringing your property, and the trees are close enough together where a pickup truck cannot drive through. Then there would be the opening for the access and that is all. You could then install a six-inch-diameter schedule-80 steel pipe on each side of the access, embedding them into approximately four feet of concrete, with cattle gate hooks welded to the pipes. The cattle gate can be secured with a tempered-steel chain and a case-hardened combination lock that cannot be cut with bolt cutters.

Next, you could install security lighting high up (30+ feet) on the trees or utility poles that would illuminate the job site. That gives you as good of security as you can get short of hiring a guard to protect the premises or live cameras that you can pan from your computer at home. That is the best-case scenario. The worst-case scenario is that your property is wide open and there’s no one around to help keep an eye on it. I do not know how you feel about security at your job site, but take it from someone who has had a lot of material stolen on more than one occasion. It makes you feel like you have been violated and there’s not a damn thing you can do about it. You will need to determine how much security you want to pay for, and build it into your budget.

Other things you might do are to post security signs and reward program signs.

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Figure 83-Photo of security guard

Figure 84-Photo of surveillance sign

Figure 85-Photo of job site security cameras

Figure 86-Photo of security fencing

22-FOUNDATION CONSTRUCTION

DIFFERENT TYPES OF FOUNDATIONS

The choice of a home foundation depends on the soil type of the construction site. Homes that are built on poor soil conditions may require a deep foundation, whereas most sites only require a shallow foundation. The climate is another factor to consider when choosing a foundation. Some types of foundation perform well in flooding or cold temperatures. Consult with a structural engineer if you are building a home to discuss which type of foundation may be best for you.

MONOLITHIC SLAB FOUNDATION-subcategory of foundation construction

As the name implies, the grade beams and the slab are poured in one operation. The construction process begins by setting the forms and digging a perimeter trench and a network of interior trenches called beams. Upon completion of the trenching, the plumber installs the underground drainage, waste, and vent lines. The electrician installs any underground electrical work for floor plugs and kitchen island service. The next operation involves the placement of a moisture barrier and reinforcement steel. The last phase includes pouring the concrete.

Figure 87- Grading underfill for slab foundation

Figure 88- Grade beams dug and DWV lines installed

Figure 89- Moisture barrier and rebar installed

Figure 90-Completed monolithic slab foundation

PIER AND GRADE BEAM FOUNDATION

The pier and beam foundation operation consists of drilling piers that we talked about earlier in locations determined by the structural engineer. Once the piers are completed, the next operation consists of building a perimeter grade beam and interior beams. The beams are placed directly over the piers. That is the crux of the foundation. The framing carpenter will then frame treated wood walls directly on the beams to form the crawl space. I generally like to make the crawl space a minimum of four feet high from the ground to the bottom of the floor joists. There are variations of the pier and beam foundation that I have used. They are all effective. The upside of this type of foundation is that it enables electrical, plumbing, HVAC equipment, and ductwork to be placed in the crawl space.

Figure 91- Pouring piers for pier & beam foundation

Figure 92- Pouring beams for pier & beam foundation

Figure 93- Completed pier & beam foundation

Figure 94- Framing on pier & beam foundation

BASEMENT FOUNDATION-subcategory of foundation construction

A basement is a sub-ground foundation. It can be a walkout basement. You can park your vehicles underneath. It could also be totally underground on all sides. Did I mention that it is the quintessential storm shelter?

The basement operation begins by excavating a hole large enough to accommodate the foundation and leave at least six feet of clearance around the perimeter for equipment and workers. The basement has a drainage system installed around its perimeter and underneath the basement floor. This drainage system will intercept any subsurface water and channel it to a sump crock, where a pump known as a sump pump will discharge the water away from the foundation. The walls can constructed of concrete blocks, poured concrete, and insulated concrete forms (ICF). The ICF forms are basically a hollow Styrofoam block form that is stacked in a similar fashion to regular concrete blocks. Once the ICF blocks have been installed, they install vertical rebar in the cores of the blocks. The last operation is to fill the cores of the blocks with concrete using a pumper truck. All three wall variations can be good; the ICF system is probably the best from the standpoint of strength and thermal value.

Figure 95- Completed poured wall basement

Figure 96- Completed insulated concrete form foundation

The two basements above are fully belowground

The basement at left is a walkout with a three-car garage under the home.

Figure 97- Concrete block basement walls

FORMING MATERIAL-subcategory of foundation construction

The foundation material can be supplied by the turnkey foundation contractor. Until you gain enough experience to order your own material and hire your own labor, I recommend that you hire a turnkey contractor. As you gain experience and confidence, you can start making your own material orders.

FORMING LABOR-sub-category of foundation construction

The foundation contractor actually performs the labor necessary to erect the foundation forms. There are a number of forming concerns that need to be addressed, so let’s discuss them.

Are the forms being set at the right height? There may be an issue with flood elevation in your area. This should have already been brought up prior to the forming but it’s better to be safe. I always recommend that the top of the main forms be set a minimum of 12 inches above grade. This allows enough room to add flower beds, mulch, sod, and any other landscaping which can affect the dynamics of drainage.

Setting the forms too low is the single biggest error in homebuilding. Setting the forms a little higher will never cause a problem. Setting them too low will always cause a problem.

Are the forms located in order to be in compliance with any building line set-back requirements or easements? Waiting until after the foundation is completed to find out that you have an encroachment violation is not what we call good timing or supervising.

Are the forms level? How nice would it be to have a level home? The forms could be square and dimensionally correct, but still be out of level. This issue is one of the many supervision inspection checkpoints.

Are the forms square? The forms could be level and dimensionally correct but be out of square. This is one of the two worst scenarios to have because this type of error will affect the plumber’s installation. This is another responsibility of the supervisor. If the forming is correct, then the foundation should be correct. If the foundation is correct then nobody will have any excuses why their work isn’t satisfactory.

Are the forms dimensionally correct? The forms could be level and square but the dimensions wrong. This is the second of the two worst scenarios in forming. Certain types of homes may have many turns in the foundation. It’s easy to make a dimensional forming error. An error in the dimensions will also affect the plumber’s installation. The supervisor has to check this and all the other issues. If you are building in an area that will have a foundation inspection, please take note of the following. It is not the role of the building inspector to make sure your foundation is level, square, or dimensionally correct—period.

You as the supervisor need to stay on top of this operation. It could all start going wrong if error in the forms are left unnoticed. The concrete will only take the shape of the forms that are erected. You get one shot at making this right. Don’t blow it

Figure 98- Forming for a poured wall basement

Figure 99- Forming for a shallow foundation

SHALLOW FOUNDATION EXCAVATION-subcategory of foundation construction

Shallow foundation excavation primarily applies to slab foundations and pier and beam foundations. The excavations are for the grade beams found under both types of foundations. If drilled piers are placed under

either of the two foundations, then they become deep foundations. Did you catch on to that?

Figure 100- Digging grade beams with hand shovels

Figure 101- Digging grade beams with a backhoe

23-UNDERGROUND PLUMBING INSTALLATION

Underground plumbing is the installation of all the subsurface drainage, waste, and vent lines for the plumbing system. These lines are stubbed up out of the ground and capped off so no concrete or debris gets into them. This installation can also include under-slab water lines or gas lines that need to be stubbed up in the location where the kitchen island will be. After the concrete is poured and the house framing is complete, the plumber will take off the caps. He will connect to the stub-ups and continue installing the drainage, waste, and vent lines (dwv) throughout the house.

Figure 102- A completed DWV installation

24-UNDER-SLAB TERMITE TREATMENT

A state-licensed applicator will apply the liquid poison to the soil before the polyethylene moisture barrier is installed. After completion of the home, a second treatment is applied to the final grade. The application rates are controlled by the state in which you reside.

Soil treating consists of applying termiticides to the soil under and adjacent to a building to create an impervious chemical barrier. A continuous barrier should be established along the inside and the outside of the foundation, under slabs, and around utility entrances. Traditionally, soil is treated with chemicals to establish a barrier that is lethal or repellent to termites. The chemical must be adequately dispersed in the soil to provide a barrier to all routes of termite entry. A thorough and uniform barrier also prevents the termites that are feeding in the structure from returning to the soil for moisture. This causes their death by either dehydration or contact with residual termiticide. Effective soil treatment depends on dispensing a sufficient amount of chemical to establish a barrier wherever there are termite entry points in each type of construction.

The easiest time to apply a chemical barrier is before construction, and pretreatment should be encouraged whenever possible. The soil below all slabs should be treated before they are poured. Treatment should be both under horizontal surfaces and adjacent to vertical surfaces. The concentration and rate specified on the product label must be strictly followed. It is illegal to use less than or more than any rate or concentration specified on the label for pre-construction treatment. Termite baiting systems may also be used to detect and treat termites entering buildings under construction, especially where groundwater contamination is a concern.

Figure 103- Spraying under-slab pretreatment for termites

RADON BARRIER-subcategory of foundation construction

Radon is a cancer-causing radioactive gas. Invisible, odorless, and undetectable to the unaided human, it can cause serious health problems. In fact, the U.S. Center for Disease Control estimates that radon is the leading cause of lung cancer among nonsmokers, and the second leading cause of lung cancer overall in the United States today, causing more than 21,000 deaths annually.

In certain high-risk areas, radon mitigation systems are required by law for all new construction. Five states require radon-venting systems for all new construction; an additional twenty-two require it in some jurisdictions.

Figure 104- Radon barrier installed

The radon barrier is also the moisture barrier. The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) reports that about one in every six homes is being built with a radon mitigation system. In high-risk areas, the percentage increases to one in three. Radon is present to some degree or another in most areas of the country, therefore radon barriers—a variation in the under-slab moisture barrier—is the first line of defense. You should check what danger zone you plan on building in so you can be prepared to install the correct under-slab material. There’s not a lot of cost involved if the builder installs the radon barrier as a normal course of events. The cost will be the difference between the cost of 6-mil poly and 10/14-mil radon barrier. Pictured in Figure 104 is a 14-mil-thick radon barrier in place of standard 6-mil poly. All stub-ups have been sealed. The temporary stakes in the foreground supporting the floating forms will be removed and sealed with additional barrier.

For a complete download on Radon protection and mitigation systems, go online and search for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency for EPA/402-K-01-002, called “Building Radon Out.”

MOISTURE BARRIER-subcategory of foundation construction

Installing the moisture barrier is important. It prevents moisture from migrating through the slab. It also prevents the forming of efflorescence, which is a leaching of salts through the concrete. Efflorescence forms a white-crusted bloom on the surface of the concrete. This bloom can destroy a multiple of floor-finishing materials if not stopped.

Figure 105- Installing six-mil-thick polyethylene moisture barrier

FOUNDATION STEEL INSTALLATION-subcategory of foundation construction

Is the reinforcement steel being installed as per the foundation plan? The engineer is going to specify the size, grading, location, and spacing of the steel. It does not make any difference what kind of foundation is being constructed. There are a number of steel terms that you will need to understand, such as stirrups, chairs, preformed corner bars, splicing, etc. This is where a little research work will really reward you. You will be given all the steel terms in “Chapter 8: Supervision.”

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Figure 106- Steel installed in monolithic slab foundation

Figure 107- Steel installed in basement

25-UNDER-SLAB ELECTRICAL

Maybe you are going to have floor plugs in the slab or electricity in the kitchen island. The electrician will need to install the sub-surface electrical boxes and conduit to those locations. You need to determine the locations of the floor plugs. Cross-referencing dimensions need to be given to the electrician in order to make the installations. The electrical work is done after the reinforcing steel is in place and before the concrete is poured. This is a very small window of opportunity; scheduling the electrician is critical. In many areas, an inspection may be required before covering up.

I have seen many times when this installation was over looked. This is not a good situation and does not make the customer very happy to have to break into their new finished floor to install electrical wiring.

16- CONCRETE PUMPER TRUCK

The pumper truck discharges the concrete through a boom and places it inside the foundation. It has a distinct advantage of reaching all areas of the foundation without the need of trying to move concrete trucks around. It greatly speeds up the foundation operation. You may need the pumper truck at your site more than once. The pumper truck has several costs associated with it. There are different size pumpers. The bigger the pumper, the more it costs. There is a move-in cost, a cost per hour, and a cost for each cubic yard of concrete pumped.

Figure 108- Photo of concrete pumper truck

CONCRETE OPERATION-subcategory of foundation construction

The concrete operation begins when concrete starts being placed inside the forms. In the “Supervision” chapter, you are going to learn a lot of information about concrete. Needless to say, this is definitely the most important structural operation in the entire home. Screw this up and you may have cost yourself a lot of money, not to mention the mental anxiety aspects of it. The following are some photos of completed concrete operations.

It is plain to see the supervisor has a big role in the successful or unsuccessful outcome of the foundation. You are going to observe that many builders do not have the caliber of supervisor on the job as they should. It is sad, and it is unnecessary. You, however, are not going to let this happen. You have enough supervisory inspection points to make sure that the foundation is done correctly.

Figure 109- Completed basement operation

Figure 110- Completed monolithic slab operation-Chamber’s residence

26-FOUNDATION GRADING

This is performed after the foundation is complete. The forms/stakes, etc. have been removed (wrecked) and all debris has been picked up. The dirt is then graded by a tractor with a box-blade, a skid-steer (bobcat) or a small bulldozer. The operator slopes the dirt away from the foundation. The idea is to smooth out the grade sufficiently enough to make it safe so that subsequent subcontractors can perform their work. This also helps keep water from ponding on-site and makes it easier for the delivery and storage of materials.

Figure 111- Rough foundation grade- Chamber’s residence

27-FRAMING

A framing subcontractor not only frames-in the home, but also installs the windows, exterior door units, siding, and exterior trim. This is one of the most important subcontractors in the homebuilding process. Every contractor who follows will be attaching their installations to the framing. It is very important that the plans are comprehensive when it comes to the information that the carpenter needs to have in order to avoid confusion, misinterpretation, and omissions. The framing carpenter is going to need a lot of supervision. We’ll be talking about this process in Chapter 8.

Figure 112- Framing operation- Chamber’s residence

FRAMING LUMBER-subcategory of framing

This consists of all the framing lumber used in the construction of the home, including the wall studs, ceiling joists, floor joists, rafters, wall sheathing, roof decking, etc. In most homes, this is the single most expensive item. In the construction of a home, various types of lumber are used, such as pressure-treated, utility grade, and structural grades. Multiple applications may use different types or grades of material. The one I’m most concerned about is the structural lumber. In “Supervision,” you will learn how structural light framing lumber is graded.

The pricing for framing lumber to build your home can be manipulated by two main techniques. First, the pricing can be manipulated by lowering the quality of the lumber. For example, #3-grade lumber costs less than #2-grade, however, #3-grade lumber doesn’t have the same strength value as #2-grade. The second way is by changing the spacing of the structural lumber. The further apart you space the lumber, the less you have to buy. Both of these methods are employed by many builders across the country in order to save money.

I personally, do not have an issue with a builder doing this, if it’s made absolutely clear that the customer will save money also. My issue is when the builder use’s these methods to save money, but tells the customer that he will be using the best material and construction practices on their job. The builder may charge the top dollar but not deliver on the promises.

This has been an example of the type of issues that you as the owner/builder have to be ever cognizant of during the homebuilding process.

SUPPORT STEEL-subcategory of framing

Support steel could be any of the following:

Steel basement beams

Basement beam support columns

Porch beam support columns

Steel lintels for supporting brick over windows and doors

This is a partial list but gives you the idea it is important to address any supporting steel component in the home. The following photos are examples of structural steel.

Figure 113- Steel “I” beam

Figure 114- Steel pipe column (lally)

HURRICANE STRAPS AND CLIPS-subcategory of framing

Hurricane straps and clips come in all shapes and load ratings. The purpose of using fasteners in your home is primarily for earthquake, hurricane, and other high-wind event resistance. In earthquakes, your home would want to move laterally, back and forth, upward, and rack out of square. In hurricanes, your home would want to rack out of square, and the roof could potentially separate from the main structure. Simpson Strong Tie Co. is one example of a company that engineers and manufactures a multiple array of straps, angles, hangers, and other devices for increasing the wind load capability and earthquake resistance.

Figure 115- Examples of hurricane clips and straps-Chamber’s residence

HOUSEWRAP-subcategory of framing

Housewraps such as Tyvek and Typar are air infiltration and water-resistant barriers. There are manufacturer’s installation guidelines that need to be followed. This is especially important when installing windows. These guidelines will be discussed and clarified in the “Supervision” chapter.

Figure 116- Photo of housewrap being installed at right -Chamber’s residence

WINDOWS-subcategory of framing-this could be an allowance item

There are different window options, to be sure. You can buy wood windows, aluminum windows, or vinyl windows. Your choice of windows may be for aesthetic reasons. That is okay, but I want to give you a few particulars about windows. In brief, they provide natural lighting and shelter from the climate. They can reduce the noise level from outside, and they provide emergency egress. Any of your choices can provide these benefits. I’m more interested in the cost versus energy values. Let it be known that windows are going to be the biggest energy loser in the home. You can spend a small fortune for windows, or you can buy builder-grade windows. There is little difference in the energy efficiency between them. I make that statement based on the composite R-value of an exterior wall. R-value, first of all, is the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the resistance, therefore, the energy efficiency is higher.

If you add together all the R-values of the materials that make up the wall, you would see that the total composite R-value is generally between R-20 and R-25. By comparison, the very best R-value you can get from a window is R-5, and you would have to spend one hell of a sum of money to get it. Double-pane low-e (Low emissivity - is a quality of a surface that radiates, or emits, low levels of radiant thermal (heat) energy) windows have an R-value between 1 and 2. Do you see the point? I’m not saying that more expensive windows with their value-added features are not worth the extra cost. Let me explain.

I say that you should determine how long you plan on staying in the home. This is the very first thing I need you to consider before you wind up wasting money that you do not have to. Never was that question more relevant than it is right now. If your answer is only a few years, then why would you put in the most expensive windows that will cost many thousands of dollars more than standard builder-grade doublepane low-e-coated windows? You would never be able to recoup the difference in the cost of the windows in a short-term sale. When you put your home on the market, you will not get any more money for it with expensive windows than if you did not.

Figure 117- Photo of vinyl window installed-Chamber’s residence

My personal choice is vinyl, double pane with a 5/8-inch air gap, and low-e coating as shown in photo. I do not recommend windows that are gas filled (e.g., Argon), unless you live in a very cold climate.

Having said that, if you are going to be in the home for a very long time or this is going to be your last home, then my answer is different. You may want to invest in a better window that has more whistles and bells.

Remember, we are talking about the difference between an R-2 window and an R-4 or R-5 window. The discussion over windows can go on indefinitely. Choose wisely.

EXTERIOR DOORS-subcategory of framing-this could be an allowance item

Exterior doors have ordering issues that you need to be aware of. Let’s start with what the doors are made of. You can get them in wood, steel, and fiberglass. For all doors except the front door, fiberglass is the best choice. Fiberglass doors are forgiving if bumped into. Steel doors will dent permanently. Wood doors, if not afforded enough protection from sun and rain, can show signs of deterioration within a few years or less. I suggest that all of your door units come with the following specifications whenever possible.

They should have weather stripping, adjustable thresholds, and doorjambs that are treated against rotting. The front door unit is a little different. Customers like the charm and ambience of a wood door. They can finish beautifully. If you are going to buy a wood door, make sure the door is made from wood that is conducive to your climate. Let me give you an example. In the South and along the Gulf Coast, a number of customers are sold doors made from wood that is more favorable to a northern climate. Consequently, they will not last nearly as long as a door made from wood that is native to a semitropical climate, such as mahogany or cypress. Here is another issue about the front door. The single biggest factor that drives up the cost of the door is the type, intricacy, and amount of glass.

If your wood door is protected from the elements by a porch or alcove, then the door will last many years without needing additional protection. Lack of protection is the main reason that I do not suggest using wood doors for any entry except the front. If those areas do have protection, then proceed on.

When it comes to ordering door units, do not try to order online unless you have knowledge about door swings, jamb widths, and brick issues, etc. You would be better off taking your blueprints to a company that specializes in supplying doors to home builders and letting them do a takeoff.

Figure 118- Photo of exterior door unit

SKYLIGHTS-subcategory of framing-this could be an allowance item

Skylights are sometimes called roof windows. In essence, that is what they are. Skylights can create a special ambiance in a home. They can be a blessing or a curse. If skylights are installed correctly, they are wonderful; if they are not, then they become a nightmare. Many people complain about their skylights leaking. The usual culprit behind leaking skylights is the roofer or carpenter who installed them; sometimes they try to fabricate their own flashing. This is not a great idea. The appropriate flashing kit for that specific skylight should be ordered. Install the proper flashing per the manufacturer’s instructions and you will not have a problem. The best brand names of skylights are Velux, Wasco, Pella, and Andersen. They can be operable or fixed, have clear or tinted glass, and can come with standard or safety glass. Do your research first before you commit to them.

Figure 119- Photo of operable skylights

SPECIAL COLUMNS-this could be an allowance item

The photo at right is a good example of special columns and depicts one of those situations where the architecture of the home drove the cost. That does not mean the columns of your home will be that large, but it indicates an item that requires special cost, special delivery, and installation issues.

The columns shown with the base and capitals are in excess of $4,000 each, plus the delivery and installation costs, but they are the appropriate columns for this grand plantation home.

Figure 120- Special exterior columns

SIDING MATERIAL-subcategory of framing

Nothing will impact the appearance of your home more dramatically than the exterior siding you choose. As you shop for exterior siding, look for a siding material that suits the style of your house and also fits your lifestyle. Shown below are a couple of the most popular styles of exterior siding.

Figure 121- Horizontal fiber cement siding

Figure 122- Examples of various styles of siding

In addition to the obvious reasons why you would choose siding, think about these considerations:

Is the siding appropriate for your style of home?

Does the siding look natural?

Will the siding distort and buckle?

Will the siding resist insect infestation?

Is the siding fire and wind resistant?

Is the siding as maintenance-free as possible?

WINDOW SHUTTERS-subcategory of framing-this could be an allowance item

Window shutters are easy enough to shop for online, but not everybody wants or needs them. It depends upon the architectural style of the home. Shutters can be fixed or operable and can be made from wood, vinyl, or a composite material. You can have shutters that are louvered, paneled, board and batten, Bahama style, or custom made. Shutters can range in price from about $30 a pair, to well over $1,000 per pair, so it’s definitely a budget item that needs to be addressed. A website that you can consider visiting is http://www.sunbeltshutters.com. You’ll get a lot of information about not only shutters but all the hardware that can be mounted on them. As a personal preference, I prefer shutters that actually operate. I like the idea of being able to close and lock them in the event of a storm or just for added security.

Figure 123- Non operating fixed shutters at left

Figure 124- Operating shutters at right

ROOF UNDERLAYMENT-subcategory of framing

It is a common practice with many builders to install one layer of 15 or 30-pound felt directly over the roof decking. The felt is overlapped two to three inches and fastened with tin caps and staples or plastic cap nails. The nailing pattern should be 18 inches all directions. Composition shingles are then installed over the underlayment later. The downside to felt is that it is vulnerable to winds that can tear the material off the roof before the roofer can install the shingles.

Wind notwithstanding, there’s no problem with this type of installation. I want the framing carpenter to get to this point as quickly as possible. He can finish up inside later. We discuss this sequence of work in Chapter 7 (scheduling).

It is also quite popular to install synthetic underlayment. There are many different brands available. Some advantages of using a synthetic underlayment include the following: It lays flat on the decking unlike felt, which can wrinkle. It is highly resistant to tearing unlike felt, which tears easily. If strong winds blow some of the shingles off the roof, the synthetic underlayment is still attached. One 10-square roll replaces five rolls of 30-pound felt. It is more resistant to mold growth. This material is the preferred choice of the author.

Figure 125- Synthetic roof underlayment

Figure 126-Comparison

Figure 127-30-pound felt underlayment

28-GARAGE DOORS-this could be an allowance item if you want a special door

There is a design issue involved here. The standard size for a single garage door is 8’ x 7’ and 16’ x 7’ high for a double door. They are too small. My suggestion is to make your single doors a minimum of 9’ x 8’ and 18’ x 8’ for your double doors. You will not regret doing that. The cost is nominal. You have to make sure that you inform your designer/architect of your wishes. There are many other sizes for different uses. The doors are normally constructed of steel, but you can still special order them in wood. Overhead doors can come insulated or non-insulated. They can come with or without glass lites. It is becoming more popular to install an all glass overhead door in man-cave type rooms, where you may want to open the room to a porch for entertaining. You want to get your garage doors installed as soon as possible, in order to secure your home from theft or vandalism. The doors should be in before the hvac, plumbing, and electrical contractors start their rough-in installations.

Figure 128-Carriage style garage door
Courtesy of Garaga Garage Doors

Figure 129-Stained wood garage door
Courtesy of Carriage House Door Co.

29-FIREPLACE INSERTS-this could be an allowance item

These are very popular in new homes. They are easy to install, and they come in different usage grades. You can buy them for occasional use to constant use and everything in between. Brands like Heatilator, Majestic, Heat n Glo, Martin, and Temco are dependable. These need to be preplanned into the design to allow enough room for safety requirements. They can be designed to fit in a corner, on a wall, or in between rooms. They can operate on natural gas or liquid propane, a wood-burning unit or gas logs only. They are available with one side, two sides, and three sides. There are optional accessories, such as remote control and combustion air intake kits. The wood-burning units require a chimney. The direct vent units (gas only) will vent directly through the outside wall. These do not require a chimney to be constructed. This product is easy enough to research on the web or call and visit a fireplace shop. Ultimately, you want to buy the insert from a builder-type supplier who also installs the unit. Make sure you get all the owner’s manuals and warranty information.

Figure 130-See-through direct vent insert

Figure 131- Wood burning insert

Images of fireplace inserts courtesy of Heat & Glo Corporation

30-SEPTIC SYSTEM-this could be an allowance item

The proposed location of the septic system needs to be shown on the site plan. As we mentioned before, a septic system is a small sewage-treatment plant. As such, they are regulated by state or local municipal authorities. According to the environmental protection agency, one in every four homes uses a septic system. There are different types of systems for various types of situations. You need to talk to a reputable installer in your area for advice on which types of systems are commonly used. The septic contractor will supply all the material and labor. Inspections will be mandatory before being able to backfill the system with dirt. For more information about septic guidance, manuals, and policies, visit http://www.cfpub.epa.gov/owm/septic/index.cfm

Figure 132-Aerobic septic system

Figure 133- Conventional gravity septic system

31-HVAC ROUGH-IN

HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning) is the primary mechanical installation that will go into the home. The goal is to provide proper air flow, heating, and cooling to each room. At this point, the first thing you need to do is some research to see what are the benefits and downsides that each type of system has to offer. I provide you with a brief explanation of various systems on the pages that follow, starting with central heating and air-conditioning, and ending with ground source geo-thermal.

You should talk with contractors that specialize in various types of systems. Each contractor can explain to you the positive virtues, any downsides and general costing information for the specific type of system that they install. Simultaneously, you should do some research on your own via of the internet, magazines etc. of various systems. Compare what you found out on your own with what actual contractors are saying. This will be the best way of determining which system is right for you.

Once you have chosen the system you want, issues such as how large, and how many units are required, have to be addressed during the budget-making process. These issues can best be answered by the results of having an HVAC contractor conduct a manual “J” load analysis of your house plans. This analysis takes into consideration such things as, what type of insulation will you have, how thick the exterior walls are, ceiling heights, square footage, what type and how much glass area you’ll have. Once this information has been processed, the outcome will provide you with the exact requirement calculation. Do not let any HVAC contractor give you any definitive proposal unless it is based in fact from a manual “J” load analysis.

While it is true, that the higher the EER (energy efficiency rating) the more money you can save in energy costs. It is also true that the benefits of having a very high EER system can be negated by a very poor installation. The EER rating only tells part of the story. You as the owner/builder have to make sure that the system is installed per the manufacturer’s guidelines. In Chapter 8 on supervision, you have the opportunity to learn many facets of a properly installed HVAC system and one that’s improperly installed. The rough-in stage usually includes the installation of the furnace, Freon line, ductwork, and supply boxes (boots). Take time to read and study the following descriptions and explanations of different types of heating and air-conditioning systems. This information should help you get on the right track and more importantly, the right budget.

CENTRAL HEATING AND AIR-CONDITIONING-subcategory of HVAC systems

Most homes have central heating and air-conditioning systems. These systems use forced air in order to distribute heat or air-conditioning via ductwork installed in each room. You have a furnace, heat exchanger, air compressor, condensing coil, and evaporating coil. This forced-air system is really the standard of the heating and air-conditioning industry. Furnaces can be electric or gas, while air-conditioning units are predominately electric.

In the HVAC system, the term rough-in is when the contractor sets the furnace, runs all the ductwork, and stubs the Freon line outside where the compressor will wind up being set. I strongly urge you to have the AC (air-conditioning) contractor install manual dampers in the ductwork near the plenum. You may need these later in order to balance the system.

Figure 134-Basic components of a heating and air-conditioning system

How They Work

Heat pumps and most central air conditioners are called “split systems” because there is an outdoor unit (a condenser) and an indoor unit (an evaporator coil). The job of the heat pump or air conditioner is to transport heat from one of these units to the other. In the summer, for example, the system extracts heat from indoor air and transfers it outside, leaving cooled indoor air to be recirculated through your ducts by a fan.

A substance called a refrigerant carries the heat from one area to another. Basically, here’s how it works:

The compressor in your outdoor unit will change the gaseous refrigerant into a high temperature, high-pressure gas. As that gas flows through the outdoor coil, it loses heat. That makes the refrigerant condense into a high temperature, high pressure liquid that flows through copper tubing into the evaporator coil located in your fan coil unit or attached to your furnace.

At that point, the liquid refrigerant is allowed to expand, turning the liquid refrigerant into a low temperature, low pressure gas. The gas then absorbs heat from the air circulating in your home’s ductwork, leaving it full of cooler air to be distributed throughout the house. Meanwhile, the low temperature, low pressure refrigerant gas returns to the compressor to begin the cycle all over again.

While your air conditioner or heat pump cools the air, it also dehumidifies it. That’s because warm air passing over the indoor evaporator coil cannot hold as much moisture as it carried at a higher temperature, before it was cooled. The extra moisture condenses on the outside of the coils and is carried away through a drain. The process is similar to what happens on a hot, humid day, when condensed moisture beads up on the outside of a glass of cold lemonade.

Figure 135-Basement HVAC installation with sheetmetal ductwork

Figure 136-Attic HVAC installation with aluminum flex duct-Chamber’s residence

Both of these installations are correct and installed with good workmanship

PACKAGED AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEMS-sub-category of HVAC systems

If you already have ducts installed and your home is large enough, you may be happier with a packaged air-conditioning system. These systems also include an outdoor compressor, but it actually circulates cooled air directly through the duct system of your home. Packaged cost effective if installed during new construction.

An HVAC contractor may suggest this type of air conditioner if you want to cool more than two rooms or a larger space at your home or office. There are two possible arrangements with the package unit. In the first one, all the components, namely the compressor, condenser (which can be air cooled or water cooled); expansion valve and evaporator are housed in a single box. The cooled air is thrown by the high-capacity blower, and it flows through the ducts laid through various rooms. In the second arrangement, the compressor and condenser are housed in one casing. The compressed gas passes through individual units, comprised of the expansion valve and cooling coil, located in various rooms.

Figure 137-Ground level package system

Figure 138-Roof mounted package system

HEAT PUMPS-sub-category of HVAC systems

Heat pumps are relatively simple pieces of equipment. In fact, if you have an air-conditioning system, essentially you already have a heat pump at work in your home. A heat pump draws warmth from one environment’s air and transfers that warmth to another environment. So when you use an air conditioner, the heat pump removes the warmth from the inside air and then pumps that air outside, leaving your home at a cool, comfortable temperature. The same technology is used by your refrigerator and freezer to keep your food cold. The difference with home comfort system heat pumps is when they are used in reverse; they can heat your home. A full heat pump system is capable of switching back and forth between heating and cooling modes. So, in the winter, a heat pump will draw hidden warmth from the outside air and pump it into your home. This works in all but the coldest of environments. In fact, as long as the temperature outside stays above freezing, you can heat your entire home solely with a heat pump. Now that you know a little bit about heat pumps, let’s discuss a couple of them; the mini-split and geo-thermal heat systems.

DUCTLESS SPLIT AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEMS-sub-category of HVAC systems

The compact and versatile nature of ductless split and mini-split air-conditioning systems has helped them to increase rapidly in popularity recently. It consists of an outdoor compressor unit and an indoor, wall-mounted unit that are connected to each other by a refrigerant line. Through this line, the compressor can provide coolant to the indoor unit, which then takes in-room air, cools it, and recirculates it throughout the room.

A single indoor unit can cool a large room or a couple of smaller rooms, making it a perfect option for a new home addition or for a smaller living space. However, these systems can also be installed with multiple indoor units, allowing you to control multiple climate zones within your home. The other benefit of ductless splits is that they do not make use of ductwork to circulate air. This makes them a viable option for many cramped or otherwise awkward spaces that would be hard to reach with ductwork.

Figure 139-Compressor unit

Figure 140-Indoor wall-mounted unit

GEO-THERMAL HEAT PUMP-sub-category of HVAC systems

Remember, a geo-thermal heat pump doesn’t create heat by burning fuel, like a furnace does. Instead, in winter it collects the Earth’s natural heat through a series of pipes, called a loop, installed below the surface of the ground in horizontal trenches or vertical shafts. The loop can also be submersed in a pond or lake. Fluid circulates through the loop and carries the heat to the house. There, an electrically driven compressor and a heat exchanger concentrate the Earth’s energy and release it inside the home at a higher temperature. Ductwork distributes the heat to the different rooms.

In summer, the process is reversed. The underground loop draws excess heat from the house and allows it to be absorbed by the Earth. The system cools your home in the same way that a refrigerator keeps your food cool by drawing heat from the interior, not by blowing in cold air.

The geo-thermal loop that is buried underground is typically made of high-density polyethylene, a tough plastic that is extraordinarily durable, but which allows heat to pass through efficiently. When installers connect sections of pipe, they heat fuse the joints, making the connections stronger than the pipe itself. The fluid in the loop is water or an environmentally safe antifreeze solution that circulates through the pipes in a closed system.

How Do They Compare?

Surveys taken by utilities have found that homeowners using geothermal heat pumps rate them highly, when compared to conventional systems. Figures indicate that more than 95 percent of all geo-thermal heat pump owners would recommend a similar system to their friends and family.

Durability

Geo-thermal heat pumps are durable and require little maintenance. They have fewer mechanical components than other systems, and most of those components are underground, sheltered from the weather. The underground piping used in the system is often guaranteed to last 25 to 50 years and is virtually worry-free. The components inside the house are small and easily accessible for maintenance. Warm and cool air is distributed through ductwork, just as in a regular forced-air system. Since geo-thermal systems have no outside condensing units like air conditioners, they are quieter to operate.

I hope with the explanatory information you just read, you will be able to better understand the differences between the systems. You will make a more informed decision concerning your selection.

Figure 141-Illustration of geothermal heating cycle

Figure 142-Illustration of geothermal cooling cycle

32- SEWER LINE

The cost of installing the sewer line could be part of the plumber’s bid. The plumber is generally going to charge by the lineal foot of installation. The sewer line we are talking about is the line between the sewer tap and the house, which is known as the lateral sewer line. This is another instance where having the location of the sewer main drawn on the site plan would be helpful in determining how many lineal feet of sewer line has to be installed. The part of the sewer line that runs from the house to the property line is known as the private side. The part of the sewer line from the property line to the sewer tap is known as the public side.

Your governing authority may want you to use one of their approved bonded installers for making the actual sewer tap. You will contact one of the approved contractors for pricing and installation of the tap.

If possible, install the sewer line at the same time that the plumbing is being roughed in.

Figure 143-Four-inch diameter main sewer line

Figure 144-Sewer connection before leaving the house

33-WATER LINE

The cost of installing the water line could be part of the plumber’s bid. The plumber is generally going to charge by the lineal foot of installation. Remember, the water line we are referring to is the line connecting the water meter to the house which is known as the lateral water line. This line will be buried at different depths, depending upon the area of the country you are building in as it relates to frost depth, etc. This is another reason why you need a comprehensive site plan. If the location of the water meter is shown on the plan, then it is much easier to arrive at the cost of installing the line.

Your governing authority may want you to use one of their approved bonded installers for making the actual water tap. You will contact one of the approved contractors for pricing and installation of the tap.

Figure 145-Water tap

If possible, install the water line at the same time that the plumbing is being roughed in, as it will make it easier to check for leaks in the house plumbing, before you cover up the work.

34-PLUMBING ROUGH-IN

This phase of the plumbing installation involves running all the water, drainage, waste, and vents lines. If there’s going to be a water softener, the plumber also installs the rough-in for it now. If the plumber is going to be installing copper water lines, then the hot-and cold-water lines will be branched off the main lines and distributed to each fixture unit. The plumber will install the gas line to the fireplace insert and connect the gas line to the furnaces.

If the plumber is going to be installing a “PEX” (cross-linked polyethylene) water-supply system, then he will install the manifold. Next, he will run the individual hot-water lines (red) generally to the left side and the cold-water lines (blue) to the right side. The water is distributed via a dedicated line running to each individual fixture unit. The water lines are labeled, and each one can be turned off independently of the others. The PEX system replaces copper installations. See the photo below at right.

Figure 146-Rough-in plumbing for a washing machine

Figure 147-PEX plumbing system

Figure 148-Rough-in plumbing for lavatory

Figure 149-Rough-in plumbing for bathtub

WATER SOFTENER-subcategory of plumbing rough-in

Water softeners reduce the concentration of calcium, magnesium, and other ions in hard water. These “hardness ions” can cause a variety of undesired effects, including interfering with the action of soaps and the build-up of lime scale, which can clog up the plumbing. Conventional water-softening appliances intended for household use depend on an ion-exchange resin in which hardness ions are exchanged for sodium ions. Water softening may be desirable where the source of water is hard. However, hard water also conveys some health benefits by providing dietary calcium and magnesium and reducing the solubility of potentially toxic metal ions, such as lead and copper. There are many brands of water softeners on the market. Most employ the same techniques of softening.

Figure 150-Photo of water softener

The plumbing contractor will install the plumbing for the water softener during the rough-in plumbing stage if you made that part the contract in the beginning.

FAUCETS AND BODY SPRAYERS/JETS96—subcategory of plumbing rough-in

At this stage, it’s a little early to be concerned about all the faucets with the exception of shower faucets and body sprayers/jets. The mixing valves for the shower or tub/shower faucets and the control valves and rough-in hardware for body sprayers/jets have to be ordered far enough in advance to have them available for the plumber to install during the rough-in. These valves are brand specific and are not universal. You must commit early to which brand and model of faucet you want in these areas.

35-ROOFING-this could be an allowance item if you want a high-end roof

The type of roof that goes on your home may have something to do with the architectural style of the home. For example, if you were planning on building a Mediterranean-style home, your roof of choice would need to be some version of tile. If you were going to build an authentic Victorian home, then your roof of choice would be slate or other types of slate looking shingles. Most of the roofing shingles in the country are composition. They generally come in 20-, 30-, and 40-year weight shingles. Composition shingles are the best dollar value shingle available.

There are many types of roofing material on the market: aluminum shingles, standing seam, corrugated metal, tin, zinc, copper, steel, composition shingles, stone-coated steel tiles, wood cedar shakes, natural slate, clay tiles, PVC, and solar. I bet you didn’t realize just how many different kinds of roofing there were. Before you decide to plug one of these into your specifications, remember what I want you to ask yourself first: How long are you planning to stay in the home? That little thing called a budget has a way of interfering with your plans, so think before you make an impulsive decision about your roofing selection.

Figure 151- Standing seam metal roof

Figure 152- Composition roof

Figure 153- Tile roof

Figure 154-Wood shake roof

As you see, not only are these roofs beautiful, but they are appropriate for the style of home.

36-CENTRAL VACCUM ROUGH-IN-this could be an allowance item

The two main types of central vacuum systems are cyclonic and filtered. According to CentralVacuum.com, the type of system plays a major role in the efficiency and longevity of your central vacuum unit. Whenever you have an appliance (like a vacuum) that collects dirt, some sort of filtration system is needed to clean out the debris. What makes a system good is its ability to minimize the debris, while maximizing airflow for vacuum power. The build-up of dirt in the bag or filter over time can be a contributing factor to the eventual breakdown of the machine. You will want to clean the system according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Figure 155-Cyclonic system (left) and filtered system (right)

Filtered systems can use a variety of filters, such as screen, cloth, foam, or paper, to clean the air taken in by the vacuum. In any filtered system, filters need to be cleaned and replaced. A cyclonic system uses centrifugal, tornado-like force and gravity to separate the impurities from the air being taken in by the vacuum and typically deposits the dirt into a canister (although some systems may use a bag). For the power unit, there are two main things you should consider: How much power do you need and do you want a bag or canister unit? According to CentralVacuum.com, homes of less than 5,000 square feet (465 square meters) require a power unit of 20 amps or less. If you have a larger home, you will need a more powerful unit. The other decision you need to make is whether you would like a bag or canister unit. When you go to empty the dirt receptacle, it will be either a plastic canister or a replaceable bag. Both systems are efficient; it is simply a personal decision. Would you rather dump and clean the canister or toss a replaceable bag into the garbage? Either way, chances are you will be disposing of debris a lot less often than with traditional portable vacuums.

Finally, for the power brush unit, you can decide between an electric power brush or an air-driven power brush. This is the part of the vacuum that will actually be cleaning the house. The type of power unit you choose depends on personal preference. For instance, air-driven (turbine) systems may cost less to install because you do not need electricity wired into all the wall inlets. The fun part is choosing the vacuum accessories, such as automatic dustpans and upholstery attachments.

Central vacuum systems can be pricey. In fact, they can cost upwards of about $1,500-$2,000. This price usually includes installation, the power unit, and attachments. At this point, you may be asking yourself why you would choose this type of system over a traditional portable vacuum…

Central vacuum systems versus portable vacuums

As the technology of portable vacuums has evolved, they have in turn become more expensive. As the difference in price between central vacuum systems and portable vacuums has lessened, central vacuum systems have become a more practical and cost-effective solution to cleaning your home. There are several benefits of central vacuum systems:

Power - Central vacuums have three to five times more power than traditional vacuums. Because the power unit is not meant to be portable, it can contain a more powerful motor than traditional vacuums.

Convenience - Central vacuums eliminate the need to carry a heavy unit from room to room or up and down the stairs. There are no cords to trip over, and your power brush can be inserted right into the wall inlet locations that you choose, instead of into predetermined electrical outlets.

Noise - Generally, central vacuum systems are quieter than traditional vacuums. Remember that the power unit is located elsewhere (garage, basement, etc.), so the noise will probably be insulated.

37-ELECTRICAL ROUGH-IN

This is the phase of the electrical work where all the electrical boxes for outlets, switches, and lighting are installed and the wiring is run. All recessed canister lights are installed. All the wiring for smoke detectors, under-cabinet lighting, door chimes, furnaces, air-conditioning, and any other installations drawn on the plan are installed. It is extremely important during this phase for you to check the locations of all the lighting to make sure you are in agreement with the placement. It is a lot easier to move lighting now than it is after the drywall is installed and painted. The main service panel is set, and all the home run wiring is pulled into the box waiting for the finish installation.

Figure 156-Circuit breaker panel box

38-ENTERTAINMENT WIRING ROUGH-IN

In this phase of work, the owner/builder is going to have a lot of involvement with the layout requirements. The owner/builder may be contracting with an entertainment company, or they may decide to do their own installations. No matter which way they decide to go, issues such as equipment location, speaker locations, and speaker wiring have to be worked out. The installation of the equipment comes at the finish end. A lot of research and planning have to go into things like:

Which equipment should I buy?

What are the best cables and connectors to get?

How do we deal with the heat that is emitted from the equipment?

Where can we conceal the equipment?

What additional electrical outlets are needed?

Where should the additional outlets be located?

Do PVC conduits need to be installed in order that wiring can be fished into location later?

Whatever pre-wiring needs to be installed, it has to be done now.

39-SECURITY WIRING ROUGH-IN

Usually, in this phase of work, the security company installs all sensors, cameras, monitors, and other system wiring. There is a growing trend toward people installing their own systems. Issues still need to be resolved, such as the following:

Is the system going to be using the phone line or is it going to be wireless?

Are there going to be motion sensing devices?

Are there going to be glass breakage sensors?

Are there going to be surveillance cameras?

How many and locations of monitors?

Will the camera equipment be able to record?

Are there going to be speakers at the door to be able to talk to the visitor without coming to the door?

Whatever pre-wiring needs to be installed, it has to be done now.

40-EXTERIOR PAINTING

Contrary to what you may read or hear, do not attempt to paint the outside of the home yourself. It is just not worth falling off a ladder and getting injured or worse. There are important preparation issues that are covered in “Painting Supervision.” The main issues concerning exterior painting is to make sure you select your colors in a timely manner and only paint on windless, good weather days.

41-FRAMING TERMITE TREATMENT

There are different names of treatment on the market for spraying the lumber in a home under construction. Some names of the systems are timbor, boracare, nibor-d, and jecta gel. These systems include sodium borate in their treatments.

the procedure is done as follows: after all the rough-in installations are made in the home, the next step is to completely clean out the house. Sweep out the heavy stuff and then use a leaf blower to blow out any residual wood shavings, sawdust, etc. The next step is to spray all the lumber at ground level up to a level of two to three feet.

You can buy your own chemical, mix it with water as directed, and spray the wood yourself with a pumpup garden sprayer or have a termite company do the job. With them, you are going to get a warranty. The only downside to this type of treatment is if water is allowed to repeatedly wet the, it will eventually breakdown and dissolve the chemical in that particular area only. Take care of roof and plumbing leaks quickly. This is the last installation of any type that goes into the home before the insulation goes in.

Figure 157-Spraying framing with termiticide

42-INSULATION

Insulation is the last item that gets installed in the home before the drywall is applied. Heat flows naturally from warmer areas to cooler ones. It does this by one of three different methods: conduction, where heat is delivered directly from one mass to another; convection, the transfer of hot air from one space to another; and radiation, which simply means that any warm mass passes off heat toward a cooler one. The main function of insulation is to minimize the radiation and the convection effect of heat and minimize conduction. A green-energy barrier works in conjunction with insulation, helping the home to stay warmer in cool weather and cooler in warm weather.

There are many different types of attic insulation, but the best type depends on your climate and needs. The two things that you will be looking for are the materials used and the R-value, or “resistance to heat flow.” The more extreme the range of temperatures in your area, the higher insulation R-value you need. You can check with your local energy commission, local power company, or local home center for the best R-value in your area or consult this map and chart courtesy of the EERE (Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy) Department. The most commonly used types of insulation are as follows:

FIBERGLASS-subcategory of insulation

Fiberglass is the most common material used for home insulation. The primary disadvantages of fiberglass are that cockroaches and rodents seem to easily make homes in it. Fiberglass ignites easily and emits toxic fumes when burning. Fiberglass is also a skin irritant and should be installed using proper protective clothing, a dust mask, and eye protection. I have noticed that, when fiberglass batts are installed in an exterior wall, there is a tendency not to do a good job of installing the insulation around switch boxes, outlet boxes, and plumbing lines. The batts are many times just pushed into the stud opening without concern for cutting around the obstacles. This poor installation practice can result in significant energy loss.

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Figure 158-Fiberglass batt insulation

CELBAR-subcategory of insulation

Celbar cellulose is a fire-resistant material made predominately of treated recycled paper. It is best suited to being blown into walls and the attic. It has a binding additive and fire-retardant chemicals installed in it that help to hold it in the stud cavities. When sprayed, it is not only insulation, but also a sound-resistive material. It is still recommended to use protective gear when working with cellulose, even though it has not been shown to have any adverse biological effects. In the attic joists, the material is blown-in as loose-fill.

Figure 159-Spraying Celbar in exterior walls

Celbar’s R-value of 3.8 per inch allows you to design exterior wall systems with higher total R-values. However, R-value alone is not the only measure of a product’s thermal effectiveness. To obtain maximum thermal efficiency, air infiltration must be minimized. Sprayed in place, Celbar conforms to any substrate, around pipes, obstructions, and over cracks, reducing air infiltration and forming a highly efficient and effective thermal barrier. It can be sprayed to virtually any exterior stud or furred cavity, and in most cases, the wall can be closed up the same day.

It is the author’s observation that cockroaches, etc. do not thrive in Celbar. The product goes in the wall damp, and I recommend that the walls air dry for two-three days before applying drywall.

All blown insulations are subject to settling. Industry standards, therefore, require all such products to be installed based on their settled density. Contractors must install insulation based on settled pounds per square foot, which will result in a thicker initial application to compensate for future settling.

Figure 160-Installing Celbar in attic area

ICYNENE

Icynene is a light-density, open-celled foam insulation. I have been using it more and more for my homes and have found it to be a superior insulation compared to other types for a couple of reasons. It gets into all the troublesome areas I mentioned before, plus it gets into unusual cavities created by different types of architectural designs. It provides a very uniform R-value installation. In the South, we use it a lot to insulate all the rafters in the home, providing a cooler attic environment for HVAC equipment to work more efficiently. When using Icynene in the rafters, the attic is a sealed system requiring no ridge vents or soffit vents. A fresh air induction pipe brings the air into the HVAC equipment. One of the favorable unforeseen consequences of using Icynene is the absence of rodents in the attic. This is a personal observation.

Figure 161-Installing Icynene in exterior walls

Figure 162-Installing Icynene in roof rafters

43-DRYWALL (sheetrock)

The installation of the drywall takes place after the home is insulated. This work is not for the novice. I have hung, taped, finished, and textured a lot of drywall in my years. I have a deep appreciation for the professionals who do this all the time. It is hard work, and this is the first interior finish work that will be seen by you and your guests. You do not want to have bad taping joints, nail pops, and a variety of other problems sticking out like a sore thumb. Even paint cannot hide poor drywall work.

In residential construction, 1/2-inch-thick sheetrock is the normal installation. Here are some particulars about which type of material goes where. In areas where fire penetration is a concern, it is common to install 5/8-inch type-X, fire-rated sheetrock. This application would apply in a detached garage, if connected to the house with a breezeway, and the ceiling of a drive-under porte-cochere. On porch ceilings, you could install an exterior weather-resistant board that comes in 8-foot and 12-foot lengths. They finish out well and are easily decorated.

In wet installation areas, follow this one closely. Wet areas are walls that form the three sides of a tub enclosure, shower walls, and wall splash areas around drop-in deck tubs, etc. If you are going to be installing solid panels (e.g., Corian, granite, or cultured marble), then you can install a water-resilient sheetrock as a backer board. This sheetrock is sometimes known as “greenrock.” In these same wet areas, if you are going to be installing some variety of tile, then you must install a waterproof concrete board or a mud set (mixture of torpedo sand and Portland cement) to the studs first. You will apply the tile directly to the concrete. No type of sheetrock is acceptable in these areas.

The texturing of sheetrock is a personal choice, depending upon your decorating preferences. The sheetrock could have a hand-sculptured, orange-peel, splatter-spray, or a variety of other textures. I personally prefer to have the sheetrock done as a plastered finish. The sheetrock finisher is the key player. His joint finish work has to be superior, or you could apply a skim coat of drywall compound over all the ceilings and walls. It is a little more labor-intensive to do it this way, but the results are worth it. You can now faux paint, stencil, rag, sponge, or any number of special finishes if the walls and ceilings are smooth. Another positive virtue of this type of finish is repairing it. If someone knocks a hole in the wall or you have a plumbing leak, repairing smooth sheetrock is much easier when you do not have to duplicate an existing texture. Have your sheetrock contractor prepare a few samples of texture for you on some scrap pieces.

Do not texture your ceiling and walls because someone told you that you had to. Contractors can hide a lot of finishing sins with texture. Only texture sheetrock because you want to. One last point, there’s been a tremendous influx of Chinese sheetrock, which is of very poor quality. This sheetrock is suspected in a lot of internal damage to homes. There is a lot of information online about Chinese sheetrock. Do not let anyone use this junk in your home. The brand I recommend most often is United States Gypsum (USG).

Figure 163-Installing drywall

44-CAST-STONE-this could be an allowance item

Cast-stone is defined as “a refined architectural concrete building unit manufactured to simulate natural-cut stone, used in unit masonry applications.” In the UK and Europe, cast-stone is defined as “any material manufactured with aggregate and cementitious binder, intended to resemble in appearance, and which may be used in a similar way to, natural stone.” Cast-stone is a masonry product used as an architectural feature, trim, ornament, or facing for buildings or other structures. Cast-stone can be made from white and/or gray cements, manufactured or natural sands, carefully selected crushed stone, or well-graded natural gravels and mineral coloring pigments to achieve the desired color and appearance, while maintaining durable physical properties, which exceed most natural-cut building stones. Cast-stone is an excellent replacement for natural-cut limestone, brownstone, sandstone, bluestone, granite, slate, coral rock, travertine, and other natural building stones.

Figure 164-Caststone railing and balusters

Figure 165-Cast-stone window treatments

Understand that cast-stone is a very expensive installation and should only be used in certain styles of homes. The budget for cast-stone could be the tens of thousands of dollars.

45-BRICK INSTALLATION

Just like any of the other trades, there are really good, skillful brick masons and those who are not. The brickwork is going to be visible. There should not be mortar smeared on the bricks, and the joints should be consistent with the style of the brick. The mortar mix needs to be consistent from one batch to the next. Are too many bricks being wasted? Does the brick mason keep the banded cubes covered until he needs them? Are the arches symmetrical or lopsided? Are angled cuts clean and concise? These are some of the things that I’m looking for. We’ll cover these and more items in the “Supervision” chapter.

BRICK-subcategory of brick installation-this could be an allowance per each 1,000 bricks

Brick is a time-tested material that has proven to be the most reliable, maintenance-free, veneer material that you can use on a home. There are numerous selections of brick in all sizes, shapes, and colors. Your selection is certainly a personal one. The issue with brick that needs to be brought up is the space factor. We discussed this in the design chapter, but it is worth mentioning again. Brick, along with thick natural stone, has to be supported by a foundation. The foundation takes up physical space that diminishes the usable space inside the house by 5.5 inches in every room that is on an outside wall. Either you make the house design larger to offset the effects of the brick space, or you don’t. It is pretty much that simple.

Figure 166-Brick veneer being installed-Chamber’s residence

46-STONE VENEER-this could be an allowance item

We will be discussing natural and manufactured stone veneers.

NATURAL STONE-subcategory of stone veneer-this could be an allowance item

Natural stone veneers can accommodate a variety of styles—from formal to rustic. Stone is a viable choice for your home. The maintenance is extremely low and lasts a lifetime. You can get natural-cut stone in two different forms. The first is building veneer stone that comes in thicknesses ranging from about four inches to about six inches. The natural-cut stone is sold primarily by the ton. One ton of four-inch-thick stone will cover approximately 40–45 square feet. One ton of six-inch-thick stone will cover approximately 30–35 square feet. The considerations when using natural stone are the weight and foundation factors. Natural stone building veneer does require a foundation and, just like brick, takes up usable floor space. The foundation needs to be designed extremely well in order to support the weight.

You can also get natural stone in thin veneer. The benefits of this are that it does not require a foundation for support, weighs less, and is installed similar to manufactured stone. Thin veneer stone ranges in thickness from three-quarters of an inch to two inches thick. One ton of one-inch stone will cover approximately 140 square feet.

Figure 167-Photo of thin veneer being installed-Chamber’s residence

Figure 168-Completed stone veneer on a home

46-MANUFACTURED STONE-this could be an allowance item

Manufactured stone veneer is a decorative material manufactured to replicate the look of natural stone. The names artificial stones and manufactured stone are used for stone veneer. Stone veneer is fabricated by pouring a lightweight concrete mix into rubber forms of different styles and then painting them with a coloring process in order to resemble real stone. The stone veneer produced is then attached to the walls with a special mortar.

The advantages of manufactured stone veneer over natural stone are its light weight and variety of designs and colors. Manufactured stone’s light weight eliminates the need for wall ties or footings and makes it easier and cheaper to build. Furthermore, manufactured stone veneer has a significantly smaller waste factor than natural stone. The variety of designs and colors provide options that would not normally be available with natural stone, since natural stone is used in the general area around the locality from which it is extracted.

There are also disadvantages for manufactured stone veneer compared to natural stone: It is not as strong as natural stone; if a piece breaks, or if a piece is removed from the wall, then unless it is replaced, it shows significantly; and it is not as reusable as natural stones are.

Manufactured stone comes in a variety of brand names such as Cultured Stone, Eldorado Stone, Coronado Stone, and Owens Corning Stone just to name a few.

Figure 169-Sample Ledgestone

Figure 170-Sample River Rock

Figure 171-Sample Fieldstone

Figure 172-Outdoor fireplace

Pictures of manufactured stone are courtesy of Cultured Stone Co.

47-STUCCO INSTALLATION

As a building material, stucco is a durable, attractive, and weather-resistant wall covering. It was traditionally used as both an interior and exterior finish applied in one or two thin layers directly over a solid masonry, brick, or stone surface. The finish coat usually contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.

The style of your home has a bearing on whether or not you should use stucco. If you are going to have a Mediterranean-style home, I cannot think of another material other than stucco that would be appropriate.

The traditional application of stucco and lath occurs in three coats—the scratch coat, the brown coat, and the finish coat. The two base coats of plaster are either hand applied or machine sprayed. The finish coat can be troweled smooth, hand textured, floated to a sand finish, or sprayed.

In exterior wall applications, the lath is installed over a weather-resistant, asphalt-impregnated felt or paper sheet that protects the framing from the moisture that can pass through the porous stucco.

Do not even think about using synthetic stucco. The most notorious of these is EIFS (Exterior Insulation Finish Systems). The major problem is that water can get in behind the insulated sheathing board and get trapped. This leads to wood rot, mold, and mildew problems.

Figure 173-Photo of stucco home
Courtesy of houseplansdesigns.com

Figure 174-Photo of stucco home
Courtesy of OrangeCountyConstruction.com

48-FLATWORK-this could be an allowance item

This category is all the sidewalks and driveways. Issues of how they should be shaped and sloped have to be addressed. These installations should be made with the same specifications of a foundation. Too often times this work is slapped in just to get the job over with. Steel reinforcement and a good concrete mix are still a high priority. You need to direct how the driveway and sidewalks should be shaped. Consideration has to be given as to how the water will drain off the flatwork. You wouldn’t want to solve one problem and create another by having water trapped in areas that cannot drain. You do want to install PVC piping under the flatwork in strategic locations. This enables you to pass irrigation lines, electrical, gas, and other installations under the flatwork for future installations. We cover this with pictures in Chapter 8.

Figure 175-Driveway flatwork

Figure 176-Sidewalk flatwork

49-SPECIAL CONCRETE FINISHES-this could be an allowance item

The variety of patterns, colors, and finishes is endless. Do keep in mind these are not inexpensive.

Figure 177-Example of stamped and stained concrete

Examples of a special concrete finish that include stamping, staining, and epoxy coating

Figure 178-Example of stamped and stained concrete

50-FLASHING

Flashing refers to thin continuous pieces of sheet metal or other impervious material installed to prevent the passage of water into a structure from an angle or joint. Flashing generally operates on the principle that for water to penetrate a joint, it must work itself upward against the force of gravity, or in the case of wind-driven rain, it would have to follow a tortuous path during which the driving force is dissipated. Exterior building materials can be configured with a non-continuous profile to defeat water surface tension.

Flashing may be exposed or concealed. Exposed flashing is usually constructed of sheet metal, such as aluminum, copper, painted galvanized steel, stainless steel, zinc alloy, terne metal, lead, or lead-coated copper. Metal flashing should be provided with expansion joints on long runs to prevent deformation of the metal sheets. The selected metal should not stain or be stained by adjacent materials or chemically react with them.

Flashing concealed within a construction assembly may be constructed of sheet metal or a waterproofing membrane, such as bituminous fabric or plastic sheet material, depending on the climate and structural requirements. Aluminum and lead chemically react with cement mortar. Some flashing materials can deteriorate with exposure to sunlight.

Flashing can assume a number of forms:

Roof flashing is placed around discontinuities or objects that protrude from the roof of a building (such as pipes and chimneys or the edges of other roofs) to deflect water away from seams or joints.

Wall flashing may be embedded in a wall to direct water that has penetrated the wall back outside, or it may be applied in a manner intended to prevent the entry of water into the wall. Wall flashing is typically found at interruptions in the wall, such as windows and points of structural support.

Sill flashing is a concealed flashing that is typically placed under the windowsills or door thresholds to prevent water from entering a wall at those points.

Base flashing is found at the base of a wall and usually incorporates through-wall flashing with weep holes to permit the escape of water. Base flashings may be placed at the building grade or at a point where a roof intersects a wall.

Its name may derive from the fact that metal flashing (typically copper or aluminum) reflects flashes of sunlight. Modern flashing may also be rubber or other waterproof synthetic materials, but metal, such as stainless steel or galvanized steel, is still used frequently.

A structure incorporating flashing has to be carefully engineered and constructed so that water is actually directed away from the structure and not inside. Sometimes flashing is improperly installed by inexperienced laborers who do not understand its purpose, which can result in severe water intrusion and mold.

We do not think too much about the word flashing until we start developing leaks through the building envelope.

Flashing information courtesy of Wikipedia

51-SPECIAL METALWORK-this could be an allowance item

This category represents special installations, such as copper roof on a bay window extension, a cupola, copper gutters, or a roof on a room extension. These items are price specific and will be special order.

Figure 179-Copper gutters

Figure 180-Copper roof on cupola

Figure 181-Copper roof over room projection

Figure 182-Copper roof over bay window

These types of installations will have to be ordered far in advance of the actual installation date. These can be very expensive finishes and should be thought of as a uniquely special item. Once again, these are installations that look best in certain types of homes and situations.

52-WROUGHT IRON-this could be an allowance item

This category is another specialty item and is price specific. Ordering far in advance of the actual installation date is key.

There are many online sites you can visit to get ideas for your home. This is one of those activities that should have been priced into your budget to start with. Wrought iron railings with just the right amount of ornate decor can make a home elegant. Too much ornate dressing can make the home look like a museum. I have seen them both ways. The railing in the photo at right was very tastefully done. Remember the same stair railing building codes apply to wrought iron staircases just as wood.

Figure 183-Ornate wrought iron railing

Not only does this wrought iron gate at left look beautiful, but it is a very secure deterrent to people driving onto your property.

The foundation for a gate such as this one has to be very stable. Electric and/or gas lines had to be run underground into and up the columns. These preparation expenses are a large part of the job.

Any wrought iron on the exterior should be powder-coated.

Figure 184-Wrought iron gate

There are several advantages of powder coating over conventional liquid coatings:

Powder coatings prohibit rust from developing for a very long time.

Powder coatings can produce much thicker coatings than conventional liquid coatings without running or sagging.

Powder coating overspray can be recycled and thus it is possible to achieve nearly 100% use of the coating.

Powder coating production lines produce less hazardous waste than conventional liquid coatings.

Capital equipment and operating costs for a powder line are generally less than for conventional liquid lines.

Powder coated items generally have fewer appearance differences between horizontally coated surfaces and vertically coated surfaces than liquid coated items.

A wide range of specialty effects is easily accomplished which would be impossible to achieve with other coating processes.

53-FINISH CARPENTRY

This is done by a finish trim carpenter. A good trim carpenter is worth his weight in gold. Keep in mind that everything that takes place now is going to be seen. You want good craftsmanship from here on out. Keep in mind that all the finish trim work you see in the following photos was comprised of simple moldings and finish plywood. This type of work is only limited by your imagination and budget.

Figure 185-Example of excellent finish carpentry

Figure 186-Example of excellent finish carpentry

Figure 187-Example of excellent finish carpentry

Figure 188-Example of excellent finish carpentry

INTERIOR DOORS-subcategory of finish carpentry

Interior doors can be constructed of wood, Masonite, or a particleboard core with a veneered face. They can have panels, or they can be smooth. If you want stained doors, then wood is the answer. If you are going to paint them, then Masonite doors work well. Doors can have a fire rating ranging from 20 minutes to 90 minutes.

This means that doors can be constructed in a way whereby fire could not penetrate through the door for the time indicated by the manufacturer.

There’s a big price difference, depending upon your preferences. There are a number of considerations before ordering the interior door units. We will discuss those in Chapter eight in supervision.

Figure 189-Left-hand interior door with transom

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Figure 190-Interior door styles

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Figure 191-Interior twin French doors

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Figure 192-Decorative kitchen pantry door

CABINETS-subcategory of finish carpentry

Cabinets come in all price ranges and quality. The issues with cabinets that I’m concerned about and should be avoided are as follows:

Avoid buying cabinets that have particleboard construction. Generally, all cabinets have solid-wood fronts. It is what happens after that is the concern.

Avoid buying cabinets that have plastic drawers or drawers made from particleboard. These types of drawers will not hold up for the long haul. Remember, this is one of those moving parts that will be opened and closed hundreds of thousands of times during the life span of the drawer. Drawers should be constructed of wood and have positive locking joints and connections.

Avoid buying cabinets that have plastic guides or tracks on the drawers. These will not hold up for the long haul. The better slides are constructed of steel with smooth ball bearing tracks.

Avoid buying cabinets that have flimsy non-adjustable hinges. Better types of hinges are Blum, Salice, European, and Amerock concealed hinges. These are all adjustable.

Cabinets can be ordered from a factory, or they can be built on-site. Both types of cabinets can be well made, and both types of cabinets can be junk. In most cases, I prefer to build the cabinets on site for the following reasons:

You can take advantage of every inch of available space.

You can build into the cabinets custom features like full extension pull out shelving and drawers.

You are not wasting time waiting for special order cabinets to arrive or they arrive damaged and have to be reordered.

Follow the specifications I laid out, and you will be satisfied with the results.

Figure 193-Example of kitchen cabinetry

Figure 194-Example of kitchen cabinetry

STAIR ASSEMBLY-subcategory of finish carpentry

The finished staircase is a real focal point in the home. There are numerous combinations of railing and stair parts to create any atmosphere in your entry. In Chapter 8 we’ll cover the intricacies of the rules of assembly.

Figure 195-Example of a finished staircase
Courtesy of DG Construction

Figure 196-Example of a finished staircase
Courtesy of Lowe & Simpson Group Ltd

In Figure 195, you can see that this is a very straight forward, uncomplicated staircase. In Figure 196, you can see that this is a very complicated staircase. There is a huge cost difference between the two. This is one of those examples of items in your home that can really affect the budget. If you remember, in the design chapter we stressed the importance of planning the space required for the stairs first in a two-story home.

FINISH TRIM MATERIAL-subcategory of finish carpentry

This is the category that encompasses crown moulding, baseboards, door casings, chair rail, etc. These moldings are referred to as the lineal trim. This also reflects the finish plywood such as ash, oak, maple, cherry, walnut, etc. Finish trim includes closet shelving, closet rods, etc.

Now that you know what the trim material is, you should also know that you can spend a lot of money at this stage of your home construction. For the first time since you started, the home begins to take on its personalized charm when you start putting in the cabinets and finish trim. The tendency is to keep adding more cabinets and trim. You really need to keep your proclivities under control.

Installing decorative trim moulding is one of the quickest and easiest ways to improve the appearance of a room. This can be a simple one-piece shaped board, or it can be an elaborate design made by combining multiple profiles of finished lumber.

Paint-grade mouldings may be made of wood or one of several synthetic materials. Wood may be in solid pieces, or it may be manufactured by gluing short pieces together with finger joints. This manufactured trim is usually pre-primed to make finishing easier. Pine is the most common wood used for paint grade applications, but poplar is also used, particularly when milled for a custom-ordered profile.

MANTELS-subcategory of finish carpentry

This is an area that you have to be very careful with. There are building codes that stipulate how close to the fireplace opening can you install combustible materials. Mantels can be very ornate but still have to adhere to safety guidelines.

As a general rule, I would install a band of noncombustible material, such as tile, slate, granite, or stone around the three sides of the opening. I would make this band 8 to 12 inches wide, measured from the edge of the opening.

There are requirements for how far the hearth must extend in front of the fireplace.

There are requirements for the minimum height of the underside of the mantel to the fireplace opening in relation to how far out the mantel protrudes.

There are requirements for how far combustible trim can protrude away from the face if you are installing in the 12-inch combustion zone. These things can be very confusing and need to be determined by code before you commit to doing anything around or in front of the fireplace opening. You will learn much more about the technical aspects of constructing mantels and noncombustible surround materials in the “Supervision” chapter.

This is another area that requires pre-planning and space allocation during the design process.

Figure 197-Example of mantel

Figure 198-Example of mantel

54-INTERIOR PAINTING

The following photos show unique color combinations and creativity. Paint is another way of expressing your personality and style. Painting can make a statement about your home—good or bad. A good painter will complement good drywall and carpentry work. Good painters are very neat and precise in the small areas of painting. The selection of colors in your home is very important. Your painting scheme can tell a whole lot about you.

Figure 199-Example of custom painting

Figure 200-Example of custom painting

Figure 201-Example of custom painting

Figure 202-Example of custom painting

There is an inordinate amount of preparation and labor that go into producing excellent painting or staining work as shown in the examples above. This kind of work is not for the do-it-yourselfers or painter pretenders. A bad painting job can ruin all the good work that has gone into the job up to now.

Staining Popular Woods

All woods have two characteristics that play important roles in determining their final appearance: their natural color and the size of their pores. Unlike paint, both water-based and oil-based stains are absorbed into the wood rather than laying on top of it. For that reason, the natural wood color will blend with the color of the stain you choose. In order to accurately predict the final color of your project, always test any stain you select on an inconspicuous place on the wood first.

In addition to their natural color, each species of wood has unique properties that will also affect the staining results. Here are a few examples:

OAK

Always a popular hardwood, oak has a strong grain pattern and large, open pores that absorb stain readily. For that reason, oak is attractive with nearly any color of stain. It does not tend to turn blotchy, but like all woods, it will stain more evenly after an application of pre-stain wood conditioner.

ALDER AND ASPEN

These two hardwoods have become the darlings of the unfinished furniture industry, for they are lightweight, affordable, and easy to machine. Unfortunately, they absorb stains unevenly. To help reduce blotchiness when staining, first apply a liberal coat of a pre-stain wood conditioner.

ASH AND CHESTNUT

These hardwoods share many of the characteristics of oak and should be stained in the same manner described above for oak.

BIRCH

Less expensive than hard maple, birch is often substituted for maple in furniture and kitchen cabinets. Like hard maple, however, it does not absorb stain evenly and should not be stained with dark-colored stains. When staining, first apply a pre-stain wood conditioner, then select stains lighter in color.

CHERRY

The distinctive reddish hue of cherry reduces the need to stain this popular hardwood. Unlike oak and ash, cherry has a subtle grain pattern and small pores, which do not absorb as much stain, making it difficult to make any significant changes in its natural color. The whitish sapwood (new growth close to the tree’s bark), often found along the edges of cherry boards, can be stained using Minwax® Wood Finish™ to blend with the reddish, mature heartwood.

MAHOGANY (ALSO ROSEWOOD AND IPE)

These South American hardwoods are noted for their dark, rich colors and their high levels of natural oils. In most instances, additional staining is not necessary. When it is, always use an oil-based stain.

MAPLE

As its name implies, hard maple is an extremely dense, tight-pored wood that does not absorb much stain. Unlike oak and ash, the grain pattern of maple is uneven, causing it to absorb stain in varying degrees.

PINE (ALSO FIR AND CEDAR)

These three popular softwoods are beautiful when finished naturally or with only a light application of stain. Problems arise, however, under darker stains, for all three absorb stain unevenly, especially around knots and blemishes.

POPLAR

Often called the “poor man’s cherry,” poplar has a grain pattern similar to prized cherry, but lacks the same reddish hue.

Here are a few examples of stained woodwork. Notice the different species of wood and the effects that staining can create.

Figure 203-Photo of stained wood wainscoting

Figure 204-Photo of stained wood doors

Figure 205-Photo of stained wood entry doors

Figure 206-Photo of stained wood cabinet doors

55-FLOOR TILE INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Tiles are often used as floor coverings and can range from simple square tiles to complex mosaics. Tiles are most often made from porcelain, fired clay, or ceramic with a hard glaze, but other materials are also commonly used, such as metal, cork, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite, or slate. Thinner tiles can be used more on walls than on floors, which require thicker, more durable surfaces.

Figure 207-Photo of polished travertine flooring

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Figure 208-Photo of ceramic tile flooring

Figure 209-Photo of slate flooring

Figure 210-Photo of stone flooring

56-WALL TILE INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

These are examples of wall tiles. You can see the kitchen backsplash has a unique tile design. Backsplashes give you the opportunity to make a statement about your kitchen.

Figure 211-Photo of tile backsplash

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Figure 212-Photo of Mother of pearl mosaic tile

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Figure 213-Glass mosaic wall tiles in

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Figure 214-Tile wainscoting in a bathroom

57-OTHER TILE INSTALLATIONS-this could be an allowance item

This category could be for items such as fire pits, outdoor kitchens, etc. We will discuss this more in Chapter 8.

58-COUNTERTOPS-this could be an allowance item

SOLID-SURFACE COUNTERTOPS

Advantages

Nonporous, seamless

Cleans easily

Good for custom applications

Low maintenance

Range of colors and textures, including stone and wood

Figure 215-Example of solid-surface countertop

Disadvantages

Expensive

Can be scratched and burned easily

Care

Clean with sponge and mild cleanser.

Approximate cost

$60+ per square foot

Figure 216-Example of solid-surface countertop

Solid-surface material is an acrylic resin composite typically used as kitchen and bath countertop surfaces and shower wall enclosures. Corian® is the most well-known brand although other companies like Formica, Wilsonart, and Nevamar who were primarily in the plastic laminate market, saw the value of getting into the solid surface business. It can be made to look like granite, quartz, marble, mottled glass, stainless steel, and a host of other materials. New and creative applications for this versatile material include sign-making, window sills, gun handles, artwork, lamps, pen-turning, cutting boards, pen-making, guitar bodies, and much more.

Solid-surface countertops are durable, easy to clean, available in many colors, and water resistant.

However, they are also vulnerable to scratches, easily discolored by heat, and quite expensive.

GRANITE COUNTERTOPS

Advantages

Many different colors and patterns of stone

Heat resistant

Hard

Durable

Beautiful

Disadvantages

Expensive

Susceptible to grease stains

Requires periodic resealing

Figure 217-Example of granite countertop

Care

Wipe clean.

Reseal periodically.

Approximate cost

$60+ per square foot

Figure 218-Example of granite countertop

Granite is sold in slabs to ensure that the grain and color of all of your countertop surfaces match. I’ve seen granite countertops priced different ways, but your base cost is calculated by the square foot area of your countertop. There will be an issue with cut and waste, because the goal in installing granite is to minimize the visibility of the seams. Some are easier to seam such as standard speckled granite, and would require a minimum of waste factor. Others, such as granite that has swirls in it are more difficult to seam, and will require significantly more waste in order to achieve the best match-up. The square footage includes cut-outs for sinks or drop-in appliances like some cook tops. Do not forget to count the square footage of the back splash in your estimate, if that is also going to be granite. The cost of granite varies according to the color and pattern chosen.

Several factors affect the price of granite, but the most important are supply and demand. Supply is affected by the accessibility of the quarry, the uniformity of the stone within the quarry, and the stone’s workability. Granite that is exquisitely figured, one that contains rare colors (e.g., blue), or one that is found only in a third-world country will be more costly.

TILE COUNTERTOPS

Advantages

Endless range of colors, textures, and designs

Available in stone, glass, ceramic, and metal

Relatively inexpensive for standard tile

Durable, scorch proof

Easy to clean

Disadvantages

Grout may deteriorate or discolor

Tiles may crack

May harbor bacteria if not sealed

Figure 219-Example of tile countertop

Care

Sponge clean with a soft household cleanser. To maintain glossy finish, avoid overusing harsh abrasives.

Approximate cost

$35 to $80 per linear foot, depending on tile selection

With respect to durability, all tiles are ranked using a Roman numeral grading system of I to V. Today the Internet and discount tile supply stores are a fantastic option for getting great prices on tiles, but beware that not all packages will be properly labeled to distinguish a strength grade.

In kitchen countertops, it is vitally important to have a ceramic tile with at least a grade III strength rating. With respect to durability, a grade III or higher glazed ceramic tile is an excellent solution for countertops in any kitchen for many reasons: It is very strong and can last almost as long as any other countertop surface product on the market today, if installed properly and well maintained.

Figure 220-Example of tile countertop

If you are going to use tile for a countertop, I would like to see you use a porcelain tile versus ceramic. Another good choice is 20-inch square granite tiles. You can get very creative with tile, installing accents, borders, inlays, etc.

One additional point, use a tile that will give you the smallest grout joint. This will help keep maintenance under control.

PLASTIC LAMINATE COUNTERTOPS

Advantages

Wide range of color and pattern

Inexpensive

Durable

Water resistant

Disadvantages

If cut or burned, needs replacement

May crack or separate from its backing

Care

Clean with sponge and nonabrasive cleanser.

Approximate cost

$10 to $20 per linear foot

Figure 221-Example of plastic laminate countertop

Figure 222-Example of plastic laminate countertop

Hard, 1/16-inch-thick high-pressure plastic laminate is still a popular countertop surface in the United States today. Plastic laminate is the best dollar value material you can use for countertops. This is not surprising; this material is inexpensive, waterproof, attractive, and relatively easy to install. Laminated countertops are also easy to keep clean. Plastic laminate countertops are so common that they can be readily purchased at nearly all building centers. The most recognizable brand name is Formica, but there are others such as Wilsonart, Nevamar, and Pionite. Despite being plastic products, high-pressure plastic laminates are so hard and dense that they tend to release relatively few chemical odors.

CONCRETE COUNTERTOPS

Advantages

Versatile

May be shaped and colored any number of ways

Material relatively inexpensive

Disadvantages

Professional installation can be very expensive

Susceptible to cracking Needs to be resealed periodically

Very heavy

Susceptible to staining

Figure 223-Example of concrete countertop

Care

Wipe with a sponge and mild cleanser.

Reseal regularly with wax or sealant.

Approximate Cost

$200 to $300 per linear foot

Figure 224-Example of concrete countertop

59-VANITY TOPS-this could be an allowance item

Vanity tops can be constructed from a myriad of materials. How creative you want to be is directly related to your construction budget. They do not even have to be made of anything except a piece of furniture, as shown in the photo at left. A granite vanity top is shown in the photo at right.

Figure 225-Example of vanity top with vessel lav

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Figure 226-Example of vanity top with undermount lav bowl

60-TUB SURROUNDS-this could be an allowance item

You can see that, in each of the photos, the tubs are recessed into a deck. It is only necessary then to have a short wall-splash around the adjoining walls.

In this category, we are talking about the walls and deck material that surround the tub. If it is a surround that is around the three walls of a tub/shower combo, then it is a good idea for the finish to go all the way to the ceiling. In many cases, the ceiling is also finished.

Figure 227-Example of tub surround

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Figure 228-Example of tub surround

61-SHOWER SURROUNDS-this could be an allowance item

Figure 229-Example of shower surround

Shower walls, as we have mentioned before, can be made from many materials. In the photos below, glass blocks, stone tile, and ceramic tile are used to create very beautiful finishes.

You can finish shower walls with virtually any of the materials we have discussed.

Figure 230-Example of shower surround

62-FIREPLACE FACE AND HEARTH-this could be an allowance item

The surround is the face and hearth material. This will always be a noncombustible material made from tile, slate, granite, etc.

Figure 231-Example of fireplace surround
Courtesy of Friends of the Sun

Figure 232-Example of fireplace surround
Courtesy of Carl Toro Design & Construction

63-WALLPAPER INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Wallpaper is still used a lot in decorating new homes. The styles and themes are endless. One suggestion that I’ll make is that you buy a couple of extra rolls of each different type of wallpaper that you are going to have. You never know when you might have damage. Wallpaper goes out of style as fast as they come in, and you need to have the same dye lot and pattern in order to obtain a perfect repair.

Figure 233-Example of wallpaper
Courtesy of Arhzine-Architecture and interior design

Figure 234-Example of wallpaper
Courtesy of Doodle Home Design Online

Figure 235-Example of mural

64-FAUX FINISHES-this could be an allowance item

Faux painting or faux finishing are terms used to describe a wide range of decorative painting techniques. The name comes from the French word faux, meaning “false,” as these techniques started as a form of replicating materials such as marble and wood with paint, but has subsequently come to encompass many other decorative finishes for walls and furniture.

In modern-day faux finishing, there are two major materials/processes used. Glaze work involves using a translucent mixture of paint and glaze applied with a brush, roller, rag, or sponge and often mimics textures, but it is always smooth to the touch. Plasterwork can be done with tinted plasters or washed over with earth pigments, and is generally applied with a trowel or spatula. The finished result can be either flat to the touch or textured.

Faux finishes

Marbleizing or faux marbling is used to make walls and furniture look like real marble. This can be done using either plaster or glaze techniques.

Graining, wood-graining, or faux bois (French for “fake wood”) are often used to imitate exotic or hard-to-find wood varieties.

Trompe l’oeil, or “trick the eye” in French, is a realistic painting technique often used in murals and to create architectural details.

Venetian plaster is a smooth and often shiny plaster design that appears textured but is smooth to the touch. Venetian plaster is one of the most popular and traditional plaster decorations.

Color wash is a free-form finish that creates subtle variations of color using multiple hues of glaze blended together with a paintbrush.

Strié, from the French word for “stripe” or “streak,” is a glazing technique that creates soft, thin streaks of color using a paintbrush. It is a technique often used to simulate linen and denim.

Rag painting or ragging is a glazing technique using twisted or bunched up rags to create a textural pattern.

Figure 236-Example of faux finish

Figure 237-Example of faux finish that replicates marble

65-WOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Wood flooring is any product manufactured from timber that is designed for use as flooring, either structural or aesthetic. Bamboo flooring is often considered a wood floor, although it is made from a grass (bamboo) rather than a timber. Wood is elastic and flexible, which makes it useful for flooring.

Wood flooring comes in a number of choices and quality levels. The traditional installation involves nailing 3/4-inch-thick solid-wood planks over either a plywood subfloor or pieces of 2’ x 4’ (if laid on a concrete slab). Then the wood is sanded, stained, and finished. This is still the best and longest-lasting installation available. This type of installation is difficult and requires a professional floor installer. Solidwood planks should be spread around the interior of the home in order to acclimate to the temperature and humidity for several days before installing. You run the risk of shrinkage gaps opening up if installed too soon.

Wood flooring comes in a variety of pre-finished materials. Generally, the pre-finished wood that has the thickest veneer is the best grade. It allows you to sand and repair damage to the flooring. This flooring can be glued to the subfloor. Pre-finished hardwood flooring also needs to acclimate for a couple of days to the temperature and humidity in the home before it is installed. Not acclimating is a common mistake.

You can purchase pre-finished wood panels that are glued together and float on a thin foam underlayment. These panels are generally about 8 inches wide by 96 inches long. The panels are bonded together but not to the subfloor. The advantages of this floor are it will give with any movements of the subfloor and is easier to install.

All of these different types of floors have specific manufacturer’s installation instructions that need to be followed in order to not void the warranty.

Wood flooring information courtesy of Wikipedia and fastfloors.com

Figure 238-Example of hickory wood floor

Figure 239-Example of oak wood floor

66-CARPET INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Carpet is a textile floor covering consisting of an upper layer of “pile” attached to a backing. The pile is generally either made from wool or a man-made fiber such as polypropylene and usually consists of twisted tufts, which are often heat treated to maintain their structure. Carpet is still the most widely used floor covering. There are carpets for every budget. One of the keys of carpet longevity is to make sure you install the carpet over good padding. Rebond padding is the most widely used and comes in different weights or densities.

Figure 240-Example of carpet flooring

Figure 241-Example of carpet flooring

Figure 242-Examples of carpet flooring

67-OTHER FLOORING INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Other flooring could include materials such as bamboo, cork, and laminate. Let’s discuss each of them.

BAMBOO FLOORING

There is just something wonderful about the look and the feel of wood floors. They can add a warm, country ambiance or contemporary flair. The concern has been for the loss of so many trees. It takes approximately 100 years for a hardwood tree to mature to the point where it can be used for floors. There has to be a solution that is better than toxic fake wood floors.

Many people feel that there is. While it takes a lifetime for hardwood to mature, it typically takes bamboo only about three to five years to reach a size that can be used for the manufacture of wood flooring. It is a grass and there is no need to replant it. Bamboo regenerates readily from the rhizomes left in the ground. It does not even require pesticides to do well.

In comparison, the darker bamboo is similar to black walnut and the lighter colors can be compared to maple. These wood varieties, although hardwoods, are considerably softer than oak. They are easily dented and scratched by heavy furniture, high heels, and normal use. Bamboo is much the same. It is not more durable than conventional hardwood, nor is it easier to take care of.

The bottom line is that bamboo floors are easily scratched, dented, and chipped, just like many other woods. If you are looking at bamboo flooring, press a fingernail or a coin into the wood and see how much, and how easily, it dents. This will give you an idea of what will happen at home.

Bamboo flooring information courtesy of maryeaudet.hubpages.com

Figure 243-Example of bamboo flooring planks

Figure 244-Example of bamboo flooring installed

CORK FLOORING

Cork flooring provides an attractive and resilient alternative to traditional flooring materials. It can also be used as subflooring to provide “spring” beneath hardwood and carpeted floors. When used as a flooring surface, it provides cushion and “give” not provided by less flexible flooring materials, including ceramic tile, hardwood, and cement.

If you are looking for attractive flooring that blends with your decor and stands up to a busy household, a cork floor can be a great choice. Available in dozens of natural tones and man-made colors, cork flooring requires little maintenance and is typically more durable than wood. Cork provides more give than hardwood and is warmer to the touch, too.

Cork flooring costs more than linoleum and carpeting, and there are potential issues concerning its use and placement. A significant issue with cork flooring can occur when heavy furniture is placed on it. If you are going to place heavy objects on cork flooring, it is important to use coasters under furniture legs to distribute the weight, or your cork flooring could become indented with imprints from heavy furniture.

Similar damage can occur if heavy objects are dropped on cork floors. You cannot use a wet mop to clean cork floors. Cork flooring can change color if exposed to direct sun and may gradually discolor due to age.

Cork flooring information courtesy of ehow.com

Figure 245-Example of cork flooring planks

Figure 246-Example of cork flooring installed

LAMINATE FLOORING

Laminate flooring was invented in 1977 by the Swedish company Perstorp and sold under the brand name Pergo. They had been making laminate surfaces since 1923. The company first marketed its product to Europe in 1984, and later to the United States in 1994. Perstorp spun off its flooring division as the separate company named Pergo. Pergo is the most widely known laminate flooring manufacturer, but the trademark Pergo is not synonymous for all laminate floors.

Laminate flooring (also called “floating wood tile” in the United States and Canada) is a multilayer synthetic flooring product fused together with a lamination process. Laminate flooring simulates wood (or stone, in some cases) with a photographic appliqué layer under a clear protective layer. The inner core layer is usually composed of melamine resin and fiberboard materials. There is sometimes a glued backing for ease of installation. It has the advantages of being attractive and more durable than carpet, while costing less than natural flooring materials.

It is important to keep laminate clean, as dust, dirt, and sand particles may scratch the decorative surface over time in high-traffic areas. It is also important to keep laminate relatively dry, since sitting water/moisture can cause the planks to swell, warp, etc., though some brands are equipped with water-resistant coatings. Water spills are not a problem if they are wiped up quickly and not allowed to sit for a prolonged period of time. Adhesive felt pads are often placed on the feet of furniture on laminate floors to prevent scratching.

Inferior glueless laminate floors may gradually become separated, creating visible gaps between planks. It is important to “tap” the planks back together using the appropriate tool as you notice the gaps, otherwise dirt will fill the gaps, making it difficult to close them later.

Figure 247-Example of installed laminate flooring

Figure 248-Examples of laminate flooring planks

68-GLASS BLOCK INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Now is the time to install all glass blocks. Glass blocks come in a variety of unique colors and shapes. As with many materials, you have to make sure that you order the glass blocks far in advance of needing them on the job. We’ll discuss more about this in the scheduling of materials.

Figure 249-Unique colored glass block courtesy of Block World

Figure 250-Example of glass block shower

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Figure 251-Example of glass block entertainment bar shower

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Figure 252-Example of glass block

69-HVAC FINISH

At this stage of the job, the HVAC contractor will set the air compressors and install the thermostats and grills. He will energize all systems to make sure everything is operating normally and balance the system. If you took me up on my suggestion to install dampers during the rough-in, it will be much easier to balance. The rooms should be plus or minus one degree from the thermostat setting. The installer should show you where the disconnect switches for the compressor units are located; instruct you on how to use the system; supply you with all warranties, registration, and owner’s manuals; advise you if you are entitled to an energy tax credit; and supply you with the information required to obtain it.

Figure 253-The furnace is installed in the rough-in

Figure 254-The compressor is installed at the finish

70-PLUMBING FINISH

Everything that you were supposed to provide for the plumber should be on the job site now. This could have been any plumbing fixtures and/or faucets.

The plumber will install all the tubs that weren’t installed in the rough-in as well as all the sinks, garbage disposals, faucets, toilets, body sprayers, jets, water heaters, water softeners, and hose bibs. All the fixtures should be tested to make sure that everything is in normal working condition and that there are no leaks in the system. The plumber can install the dishwasher, but remember what I told you about installing appliances. You should walk through the house with the plumber so he can show you how to operate such things as body sprayers, jets, and whirlpool tubs; how the water heater works; how the manifold plumbing system works; where the main shutoff for the water is located; and how to use the system. The plumber should also supply you with all warranties, registration, and owner’s manuals; advise you if you are entitled to an energy tax credit; and supply you with the information required to obtain it.

Figure 255-Photo of installed garbage disposal

Figure 256-Photo of completed shower with faucets and trim installed

Figure 257-Photo of installed kitchen sink and faucet

Figure 258-Photo installed bath fixtures and faucets

PLUMBING FIXTURES-subcategory of plumbing finish

With home construction, we are mainly dealing with the following plumbing fixtures: bathtubs, bidets, lavatories, pedestal lavs, toilets, kitchen sinks, utility sinks, vegetable sinks, and garbage disposals.

There are many brand names for plumbing fixtures, including Kohler, American Standard, Crane, Toto, Grohe, and Jacuzzi

Choosing your plumbing fixtures is based on the plan, style, and budget. Obviously, some of the fixtures can get very expensive. Allow enough ordering time to receive the fixtures, as some fixtures may be coming from a different supplier.

Figure 259-Photo of custom master tub

Figure 260-Photo of pedestal lav

Figure 261-Photo of vessel sink

FAUCETS-subcategory of plumbing finish

Faucets can be a very troublesome item. With so many faucets to choose from, it is hard to make the best decision.

Many people buy faucets for their looks. Maybe they found them online and decided to order them. This can work for or against you. The upside to this is perhaps you saved money. The downside is it may wind up costing you more.

Figure 262-Kitchen sink faucet

When the plumber installs the faucets that you provide, he has no obligation other than to make sure they are properly installed. He does not warrant the faucet for defects. If there’s a problem with the faucet, then you would pay to have the faucet removed. You would be responsible for returning the faucet to the supplier and getting a replacement. You would have to pay the plumber to then install the replacement.

If you order the faucets through the plumber from one of his suppliers, now there is a warranty issue. The plumber would have to remove the defected faucet, return it to the supplier, and provide you with a replacement at no charge.

I have taught my students to try to stay with faucets that can be replaced quickly or have replacement parts that are readily available. A few brands that fit this description are Moen, Delta, Kohler, Price Phister, and American Standard.

Figure-263-Pot-filler faucet

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Figure 264-Bath lavatory faucet

TANKLESS WATER HEATERS-subcategory of plumbing finish and electrical finish

Generally speaking, the plumber will provide and install a conventional tank–type water heater, but what if you wanted a nonstandard water heater, such as a tankless? In this case, the plumber would probably prefer that you shop for and purchase the water heater and the associated venting parts.

Tankless water heaters are being installed in more and more homes all the time. The author has been using them for a number of years now. A few brand names include Rheem, Rinnai, Bosch, Takagi, and Noritz, just to name a few. Let’s discuss how a tankless water heater works.

When there is a demand for hot water (e.g., a hot-water tap is opened for a sink, shower, tub, or washing machine) the tankless water heater’s water flow turbine senses the flow and starts the heating process. The water flow turbine sends a signal to the control board, which looks at multiple factors: incoming water temperature, desired water temperature as set on the fixture control, and the calculated difference between the two temperatures. Depending on the calculated incoming and desired water temperatures, the gas or electric flow into the burner assembly is modulated, and the electronic ignition sequence begins. Water is heated to the desired temperature as it circulates through the copper heat exchanger, providing continuous hot water. When the hot-water tap is turned off, the tankless water heater shuts down and is placed in a standby mode, pending the next call for hot water. As long as the hot-water faucet is turned on, the hot water flows continuously. You can have multiple zones of water heaters in the home, if you so desire. When these water heaters are ordered, you have to order the vent pipe and all the fittings—roof cap, roof flashing, shut-off valves, and temperature pressure relief valves.

Figure 265-Photo of two Rinnai tankless water heaters plumbed together

APPLIANCES-sub category of plumbing finish and electrical finish-this could be an allowance item

Here is where some good old-fashioned common sense comes into play when you are selecting appliances for your home. If your family only makes meals on occasion, and you eat a lot of TV dinners that you prepare in the microwave, then why would you need to buy the most expensive appliances on the market? Maybe it is an ego thing. On the other hand, if you do a lot of cooking in the kitchen, you could easily justify buying better quality appliances.

If you read Consumer Reports magazine, you could find out the dependability, complaints, and best-buy records of many appliances.

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Figure 266-Sub-Zero refrigerator

Another suggestion I like to make is to have the appliances installed by the company you bought them from. They usually have a sub-contractor they use frequently to do installations. There are two reasons for having the store install the appliances: First, is some of the appliances are very tricky to install and heavy; second, if they damage any flooring, countertops, cabinetry, and walls while attempting to install the appliances, you have recourse with the store of purchase. If your sub-contractors are trying to install them and any damage arises, they will blame somebody else. It is human nature.

You may be charged a couple hundred dollars or so to deliver and install all the appliances, but believe me, it is worth it. Appliances can represent a good part of your overall construction budget. There are two reasons why I emphasized making decisions about appliances early in the game: First, to get your budget pinned down; second, your selections will have a bearing on the size of the electrical and/or gas service.

Figure 267-Miele double oven

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Figure 268-Outdoor appliances

Figure 269-Commercial range

STANDBY GENERATOR-subcategory of plumbing finish and electrical finish

It is becoming more and more popular to install a standby generator that will power the entire house in the event of an emergency. The standby generator can be powered by natural gas or propane. As a matter of fact, I have one in my house that is powered by natural gas. It has saved my bacon more than once. During Hurricane Ike in 2008, our area was without power for nine days. The generator was an absolute lifesaver. We have a 20,000 watt unit, like the one shown, and it powered the entire home. Generators come in different sizes to fit your needs.

Figure 270–20,000-watt standby generator

The plumber and the electrician are both involved in hooking up service to the generator. The plumber installs the gas line, and the electrician installs the transfer switch. This is the reason why it shows up in two different phases of work. When you lose permanent house power, the generator has a 10-second time delay before it starts up automatically.

Visit http://www.norwallpowersystems.com for information regarding standby generators.

71-ELECTRICAL FINISH

Everything that you were supposed to provide for the electrician should be on the job site now. The electrician installs the wall switches, outlets, light fixtures, door chimes and buttons, smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors, ceiling fans, outside weatherproof outlets, and any other installations that were on the plan. All circuits are energized, and all lights and ceiling fans are checked to make sure they are in normal operating condition. The electrician should walk you through the home and show you what is controlled by each switch; supply you with all warranties, registration, and owner’s manuals; advise you if you are entitled to an energy tax credit; and supply you with the information required to obtain it.

LIGHT FIXTURES-sub-category of electrical finish-this could be an allowance item

In home construction, we are dealing mainly with the following type of light fixtures.

Recessed lights: These are also referred to as canister lights. The canister part of the fixture is installed during the electrical rough-in and will be recessed into the ceiling, leaving only the rim of the fixture itself exposed. The ceiling-mounted version is often called a “downlight.”

Troffer light: These are recessed fluorescent lights. (The word comes from the combination of trough and coffer).

Floor lamp: This is a lamp in which the base sits on the floor and can be activated by a wall switch or fixture-mounted switch.

Figure 271-Chrystal chandelier

Surface-mounted light: This is a light fixture that is exposed, not flush with surface like a recessed-canister light.

Chandelier: A chandelier is a branched decorative ceiling-mounted light fixture with two or more arms bearing lights. Chandeliers are often ornate, containing dozens of lamps and complex arrays of glass or crystal prisms to illuminate a room with refracted light.

Pendant light: This is a lone light fixture that hangs from the ceiling, usually suspended by a cord, chain, or metal rod. Pendant lights are often used in multiples, hung in a straight line over kitchen countertops and dinette sets, or sometimes in bathrooms. Pendants come in a huge variety of sizes and vary in materials from metal to glass to plastic. Many modern pendants are energy-saving, low-voltage models, and some use halogen or fluorescent bulbs.

Sconce: This is a light fixture that can provide up or down lighting. It can be used to illuminate artwork and architectural details. It is commonly used in hallways and/or as an alternative to overhead lighting.

Figure 272-Pendant lights

Track-lighting fixture: These are individual fixtures (“track heads”) that can be positioned anywhere along the track, which provides the electric power.

Under-cabinet lighting: These are generally slim-line fluorescent light fixtures mounted under kitchen wall cabinets.

Figure 273-Wall sconce light fixture

Figure 274-Track lights

72-GLASS ENCLOSURES-this could be an allowance item

You can install glass enclosures for tubs, showers, decks, claw-foot tubs, and pools.

Figure 275-Example of glass enclosure

Figure 276-Example of glass enclosure

73-MIRRORS AND MISCELLANEOUS GLASS INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

You may decide to buy your own framed mirrors or have a glass and mirror company install them. You may be installing glass shelving or glass in cabinet doors.

Figure 277-Example of glass and mirror

Figure 278-Example of glass and mirror

74-FINISH HARDWARE-this could be an allowance item

Finish hardware is the hardware needed to complete and complement the home. The finish hardware includes the following: door hardware, cabinet hardware, bath accessories, drawer slides, door and cabinet hinges, closet rods, closet storage systems, garage storage systems, address plaques, and many hard-to-find specialty hardware items.

Any of the finish hardware that is a special-order item needs to be ordered at least one month prior to the installation date.

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Figure 279-Examples of finish hardware

Figure 280-Examples of finish hardware

75-CENTRAL VACUUM INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

The company that you contracted with completes the installation, installs the canister, energizes the system, and makes sure that everything is in normal operating condition. They should instruct you on how to use the system and supply you with all warranties, registration, and owner’s manuals.

76-GARAGE DOOR OPENERS

This is when your garage door company comes back and installs the openers that were part of your original installation. You will want to make sure that you get two controllers for each opener.

77-ELEVATOR INSTALLATION-this could be an allowance item

Elevators make it possible to enjoy your home for a longer period of time, especially as we start getting up in years. If you have an accident and are in a wheelchair during recovery, you will find this to be a lifesaver.

The elevator company should install the elevator as soon as the finish electrical work is complete.

Figure 281-Example of residential elevator on left

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Figure 282-Example of residential elevator on right

78 ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM FINISH

Your entertainment system company now completes the work by installing the speakers, etc. for the system that you ordered. The system should be checked to make sure it is in normal working condition and supply you with all warranties, registration, and owner’s manuals.

79-SECURITY SYSTEM FINISH

The security company installs the sensing devices, keypads, and master control panel. They should instruct you on how to use the system and supply you with all warranties, registration, and owner’s manuals.

80-CONTRACTOR PUNCH LISTS

This is a really important phase of work. It is the period of time when you have all required subcontractors return and take care of any residual uncompleted items. Maybe they need to correct an item. In Chapter 9, you will see how long the inspection list is for the walk-through.

81-HOUSE CLEANING

The house cleaners make the home ready to move in. They clean all windows, inside and out; vacuum all carpeting; and clean all hard-surface flooring, plumbing fixtures, mirrors, faucets, light fixtures, countertops, and cabinetry.

82-FINAL YARD GRADE

The finish grade is the foundational manicure of every fine lawn. It provides the final shaping and prepares the seedbed, or sod base, for completion. Before finish grading can begin, the rough grade must be set within one inch of the final grade and proper drainage established. The contractor will use a tractor with a box-blade attachment or a skid-steer to create a smooth-finish yard grade.

TOP SOIL-subcategory of final yard grade

You may need to bring in truckloads of topsoil to be spread out during finish grading. Read the following information below regarding soil, loam, and organic material.

Soil is the foundation of our landscape. It is comprised of sand, silt, and clay, mixed with varying amounts of organic matter, water, and air. It is a complex and dynamic medium, able to serve many functions. For the horticulturist, it is a plant-growth medium; for the engineer, a construction material and load-bearing medium; and for the geologist, a stage in the recycling of rock materials. Soil often becomes the scapegoat for a multitude of lawn and garden difficulties. Though sometimes it can contribute to a problem, cultural or other environmental factors are usually the more direct causes.

Loam, on the other hand, is a textural classification. Texture refers to the relative amount of sand, silt, and clay in a soil. A loam is technically a soil with between 7% and 27% clay, 28% to 50% silt and less than 52% sand. One may modify the term loam to sandy loam, sandy-clay loam, clay loam, silty-clay loam, or silt-loam as the proportions of these individual soil fractions changes.

Topsoil should contain at least 2% organic matter, but no more than about 10%. Organic matter is an important component of topsoil. It contributes to the capacity of soil to hold water and nutrients and tends to improve soil aggregation, which makes soil more porous. This results in excess water draining away more readily and facilitates air flow to the plant’s roots. Organic matter also tends to make soil easier to till. Too much organic matter, however, may result in a soil that is subject to compaction during the installation phase or afterward as a result of normal foot traffic.

83-GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

Gutters and downspouts perform a functional role in the control of water drainage. They come in different sizes, depending upon the anticipated flow of water from the roof. Most gutters are made from aluminum-coil stock and are fabricated on site, enabling you to have a seamless installation.

There are screens of different varieties that are inserted at the top of the gutters to keep leaves from getting in. In my experience, it is a pain in the neck to get up on a ladder to clean the leaves from the screens.

What is wrong with this picture?

The best applications I have come across that keep leaves, pine needles, and other debris out of the gutters is a shroud that covers the gutters entirely. Water will enter the gutters through a wicking action and prevent the unwanted material from getting in. They are known as Gutter Helmet, Leaf Filter, K Guard, Leaf Guard, and so on. Each claims to be the best. You do your research and decide for yourself.

84-FINAL DEBRIS REMOVAL

85-FENCING

This is a good time to install the fencing. There are different types of fencing for different situations, including estate fencing, picket fences, cyclone wire fencing, and many more. In some subdivisions, however, only a certain type of fencing may be allowed. Always make sure you get the proper approval and permit before starting this project.

86-SPRINKLER SYSTEM

You need to be involved in the design process and make sure that you have a completed schematic of your system complete with sprinkler locations and control boxes. I believe it to be a good idea to take some pictures of your piping system before covering it up with dirt.

87-DRAINAGE SYSTEM

In residential construction, this could involve installing French drains, channel drains, or an underground system in order to tie in downspouts.

The drainage system could include installing catch basins in order to intercept surface water and channel it to another location. Once again, take a few pictures of any underground drainage system before it gets covered up.

Note the examples of different types of drainage systems.

Figure 283-Open-trench drain

Figure 284-Channel drain

88-LANDSCAPING

The sky’s the limit when it comes to landscaping. You can be as creative as you want to be or until your money runs out, whichever comes first.

This completes Chapter 3. This should have gone a long way in explaining and defining the activities of the homebuilding process. One of the goals of this chapter was to get you to start thinking outside of the box. Now you can start formulating what types of material you want to go in your home. You have one good shot at doing it right the first time. Chapter 4 will be influenced by what you learned in this chapter.

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CHAPTER 4

SPECIFICATIONS

Specifications are an explicit set of requirements for materials, products, and services. The specifications will be satisfied by the execution of the construction contract. Specifications control how you want the home to be built.

In creating comprehensive specifications, you need to have a complete understanding of what options are available to you. In the last chapter, I gave you fundamental background information and options that you could research online or through reading. By this time, you should be able to formulate your choices.

I have provided you with example specifications for each category. The example specifications are a learning tool only and not intended to be your actual specifications. You will write your own actual specifications. Remember, virtually any of the budget categories can be written as a specification. The more specific information that you can provide in your specifications, the easier it is to formulate a budget. Comprehensive specifications take all the misunderstandings out of the equation.

FOUNDATION

Example: The foundation will be constructed in accordance with the engineered approved plan and soil test analysis.

Write your specifications:

FRAMING MATERIAL

Example: Unless otherwise specified, all structural framing lumber shall be #2 SYPKD19. The maximum spacing shall be 16 inches o.c. (on center).

     Clarification - (#2 grade southern yellow pine, kiln dried, max moisture content 19%)

Wall studs shall be #2 SYP FJ (finger jointed) or SPF (spruce, pine, fir).
Exterior wall sheathing shall be 1/2- inch CDX plywood.

     Clarification - With CDX, the first two letters represent the quality of the veneer on each side. There is a “C” grade side and a “D” grade side. The letter “X” designates that the layers of the plywood are bonded together with exterior glue.

The housewrap shall be Tyvek and Tyvek tape installed in accordance with Tyvek installation instructions.
Roof decking shall be 1/2-inch CDX plywood installed with “H” clips (plyclips).
The roof underlayment shall be DuPont roof liner installed per manufacturer’s instructions.

     Clarification -“H” clips (plywood clips) are spacer clips shaped like the letter “H” and are slipped over the edges of adjoining sheets of plywood. Spacing of approximately 1/8 inch between the sheets is extremely important, or you run the risk of the sheathing absorbing moisture, swelling, and buckling.
The subfloor shall be 1-1/8 inch T&G (tongue and groove) sturdi-floor plywood. The sub-floor be glued to the joists with construction adhesive and glued together at the tongue and groove.

     Clarification - This technique eliminates squeaky floors.

Write your specifications:

WINDOWS

Example: The windows will be white-vinyl frame, double pane, and low-e glass.
Style and type per plan

Write your specifications:

GARAGE OVERHEAD DOORS AND OPENERS:

Example: The overhead doors shall be steel sectional paneled doors. No glass lites.
The openers will be 1/2- horsepower LiftMaster screw drive with two remote controllers for each opener.

Write your specifications:

SKYLIGHTS

Example: The skylights will be Velux aluminum clad fixed with laminated low-e glass. They will come with manual venetian blinds.

Write your specifications:

EXTERIOR DOORS

Example: All door units will come with weather stripping, adjustable threshold, and double bored for lockset and deadbolt.
The side entry door will be 6-panel fiberglass, smooth (no texture).
The double door in family room will be full-view fiberglass, smooth (no texture).
The front door will be mahogany wood “Arlington Court” #4655 Door and two #4665 from the Heritage Collection.

Write your specifications:

WINDOW SHUTTERS

Example: The shutters will be 15-inch-wide green-vinyl, open-louver plantation shutters.

Write your specifications:

FIREPLACE INSERTS

Example: The fireplace insert shall be a Heat-N- Glo Direct top vent Model 6000XLT with remote control.

Write your specifications:

ROOFING

Example: The shingles will be GAF Corporation Lifetime high definition. The color will be “Weathered Wood.”
The shingles will be fastened with a minimum of four 1 1/4-inch roofing nails (staples not permitted.)

Write your specifications:

HVAC

Example: The HVAC system will comply with the Uniform HVAC Code and include the following:
The HVAC system will be Amana 18-seer, 95% + efficiency with variable speed air handler.
The system will include two- zone electronic dampers, ultra-violet lighting, and media filter.
The ductwork will be aluminum flex duct with an R-6 insulation rating.
Install manual dampers in ductwork at the plenum.
The contractor shall provide a manual “J” load analysis.

Write your specifications:

CENTRAL VACUUM SYSTEM

Example: The central vacuum system shall be the “Galaxie GA-100. The installation includes five power inlets and four vacpans. Locations will be approved by owner.

Write your specifications:

PLUMBING

Example: The plumbing system will comply with the Uniform Plumbing Code and consist of the following:
The DWV lines will be installed using schedule-40 PVC.
The plumbing system will have 2 zones using the Manabloc control panels and PEX plumbing system.
There will be two Rheem tankless water heaters installed.
The homeowner will approve the locations of shower heads, faucets, and body sprayers/jets.

Write your specifications:

PLUMBING FIXTURES

Example: The plumbing fixtures will include the following:
Kitchen sink – Kohler K-5931-4U-0 Executive Chef undermount cast iron sink. Color – “Mexican Sand”
Vegetable sink – Kohler K-5902-1U-K4 Sorbet undermount cast iron bar sink. Color – “Mexican Sand”
2 bathtubs – American Standard 5’ Cambridge. Color – “White”
Master bathtub – Jacuzzi Allusion 72” x 42” x 26”. Color – “Almond”
3 toilets – Toto CST416M-01 Aquia ll Dual Flush Two. Color – “White”
Master toilet – Toto MS604114CEFG-01 Ultramax ll Het Double. Color – “Bone”
2 bathroom lavs – Kohler K-2950-1 Revival self-rimming. Color “White”
Guest bathroom lav - Kohler K-14223-SR2 Vessel sink Caravan collection with Persia design.
Master bathroom lavs – Kohler K-2200 Vessel sink Vitreous China. Color – “Mexican Sand”
Utility sink – Kohler K-6663-3-0 single bowl self-rimming cast iron. Color –“Mexican Sand”

Write your specifications:

FAUCETS

Example: The faucet selections will include the following:
Kitchen and vegetable sinks – Moen Brantford 7185ORB. Finish – oil rubbed bronze bathtubs – Moen T2606 – stainless steel
Master tub – Moen T S243 Roman faucet – stainless steel
Master shower – Moen T S275 – stainless steel
2 bathroom lavs – Moen S442 – stainless steel
Guest bathroom lav – Moen T S 42114 – stainless steel
Master lavs – Moen T S42108
Utility sink – Moen 7590 – stainless steel

Write your specifications:

ELECTRICAL

Example: The electrical system will comply with the National Electrical Code and include the following:
The main service will be a Square “D” distribution panel and circuit breakers.
All wiring will be a minimum size of 12-gauge romex.
All switches will be a rocker (décor) switch.
All electrical devices and covers will be white in color.
All locations of lighting, switches, and outlets need to approved by the customer.

Write your specifications:

ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM

Example: The home entertainment system will be the Bose Lifestyle V35. The pre-wiring for the system will be installed after the electrical rough-in is complete.

Write your specifications:

SECURITY SYSTEM

Example: The security system will be Honeywell. Pre-wire for 4 door opening contacts, 27 window opening contacts, glass breakage sensors, 4 keypads, and interior siren

Write your specifications:

INSULATION

Example: The insulation package includes the following:
Icynene in exterior walls and roof
Low-density foam sealant around window and door openings

Write your specifications:

DRYWALL

Example: The drywall will be installed as follows:
1/2 inch on interior of home excluding tub enclosures and shower walls These areas will be tiled and need to be covered with concrete board.
5/8 inch type-X, fire-rated on walls and ceiling in the garage
The sheetrock will be taped, floated, and finished smooth. There will be no texture.

Write your specifications:

BRICK

Example: The brick will be Acme “Brazos Bend” king size. The detailing will be done as per elevations.
The mortar color will be white.
The brick will be cleaned with a lime solvent solution, brushed, and rinsed.

     Clarification:
What type and strength of cleaning solution that should be used is dependent upon the color and surface texture of the brick.

Write your specifications:

STUCCO

Example: The stucco will be a three-step process with stucco applied over paper-backed metal lath. The contractor will install a weep starter strip and expansion joints..
The color will be “Champagne”.
The texture will be approved be the customer.

Write your specifications:

SIDING

Example: The siding will be Hardi-Plank, 8-inch Colonial, textured.
The siding will be installed in compliance with manufacturer’s guidelines.
1/8-inch caulking gaps will be provided at those areas where the siding butts up to trim.
Flashing strips made of Tyvek or similar material will be installed at every butt joint.

Write your specifications:

STONE VENEER

Example: The stone will be a manufactured stone. The brand will be Cultured Stone. The selection will be
Bucks County 80% Southern Ledgestone (CSV-2056) and 20% Dressed Fieldstone (CSV-2030).

Write your specifications:

CABINETS

Example: The kitchen cabinets will be Wood-Mode. The cabinet selection is Hunt Club Valet. The cabinet door selection is Barcelona Raised. The color is cherry.

Write your specifications:

INTERIOR DOORS

Example: The interior doors will be textured Masonite, four-panel.

Write your specifications:

PAINTING

Example: The painting specs are as follows:
The exterior paint will be Sherwin Williams Duration.
The roof overhangs and siding will be “Alabaster” (SW7008).
The exterior preparation work will include using a 50-year acrylic-siliconized paintable caulking.
The interior paint to be used on walls and ceilings will be Sherwin Williams Pro-Mar 200.
The ceilings will be “White Flour” (SW7102).
The walls will be “Venetian Lace” (SW7119.
The interior woodwork and doors will be painted with Sherwin Williams alkyd enamel.
The woodwork color is “Pure White (SW7005).

Write your specifications:

COUNTERTOPS

Example: The kitchen countertops will be 3/4- inch thick granite. The selection will be Blue Canyon. The edge will be 1-1/2 inch full bullnose.
A cut-out will be made for an undermount sink.
Holes will need to be drilled for faucets.
The customer will supply sink template and hole pattern.

Write your specifications:

BACKSPLASH

Example: The kitchen backsplash will be stone tile with granite accents. The stone tile will be 8”x 8” Gold Tumbled travertine laid on the diagonal. The accent dots will be Blue Canyon granite.

Write your specifications:

FIREPLACE FACE AND HEARTH

Example: The fireplace face will be constructed of 12” x 12” slate tile. The selection is “Slate Autunno.”
The hearth will be constructed of granite slab. The granite is “Blue Canyon.”

Write your specifications:

VANITY TOPS

Example: All vanity tops will be made of cultured marble. The selections are as follows:
Master bath – Oyster
Guest bath – Sea shell
Two baths – Charcoal Gray Swirl
Cut-outs will need to be made for undermount lav bowls. Holes will have to be drilled for faucet.
The customer will supply the lav templates and the hole pattern.

Write your specifications:

SHOWER SURROUND AND PAN

Example: The shower walls will have 1/2-inch-thick concrete board installed as a sub-strate.
The finish wall material will be polished 16” x 16” travertine tiles. The selection will be beige.
The shower pan will have a 40-mil-thick shower liner and FHA (Federal Housing Administration) floor strainer. Concrete sub-strate will be installed sloping to drain. The finish pan material will be pebble tile. The customer will select the tile.
Recesses in wall will be constructed for shampoo and soap. The customer will provide details.
The tile installer will install the liner and strainer.

     Clarification:
It is better to have the tile installer install the liner and floor strainer rather that the plumber for the following reasons:
It eliminates the problem of the liner sitting exposed too long and being subject to damage by other trades.
It eliminates the any excuse that the tile installer may have for the job not turning out right.

Write your specifications:

TUB DECK AND WALL SPLASH

Example: The tub deck and adjoining wall splash areas will have 1/2-inch-thick concrete board installed as a sub-strate.
The finish material will be polished 16” x 16” travertine tiles. The selection will be beige.

Write your specifications:

TUB SURROUNDS

Example: The tub surrounds in two bathrooms will have 1/2-inch-thick concrete board installed as a sub-strate.
The finish material in both bathrooms will be from the Icestone collection. The color will be “White Pearl.”

Write your specifications:

FLOORING

Example: All bedrooms, closets, and hallway will be Stainmaster loop carpet in the whites/beiges color group. The color treatment will be multi, structure is tight and low sheen.
The two full bathrooms will be American Olean 18” x 18” “Catarina White” porcelain tile.
The master bath will be Shaw Floors Tivoli 20” x 20” “Golden Sienna” porcelain tile.
The foyer will be 12” x 12” “Black Pearl” granite tile
The kitchen, family room, dining room, and study will be #1 white oak select wood nailed down over screeds.
The wood will be stained and finished to customer selections.

Write your specifications:

APPLIANCES

Example: The range/oven is a Viking 48” stainless steel Professional Series freestanding VGCC.
The refrigerator will be a Sub-Zero PRO 48 stainless steel with glass door.
The dishwasher will be a Bosch stainless steel SHX43P12UC 24-Integra 300 series fully integrated.
The microwave will be a Viking stainless steel drawer microwave DMOD241SS.

Write your specifications:

The following is the completed specification format for the mentioned categories. I recognize that, at this point, you might not be able to make all these decisions. Your goal should be to get as many of these issues resolved as soon as you can. The more comprehensive you make the specifications now, the less opportunity there will be for misunderstandings later.

CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS

Builder: ABC Home Builders LLC (Limited Liability Corporation)

Customer: Derek and Cindy Roesler

Job Address: |  | 12345 Main Street
|  | Houston, Texas 77386

FOUNDATION

The foundation will be constructed in accordance with the engineer-approved plan and soil test analysis.

FRAMING MATERIAL

Unless otherwise specified, all structural framing lumber shall be #2 SYPKD19. The maximum spacing shall be 16 inches o.c.

Wall studs shall be #2 SYP FJ or SPF.

Exterior wall sheathing shall be 1/2-inch CDX plywood.

The housewrap shall be Tyvek and Tyvek tape installed in accordance with Tyvek installation instructions.

Roof decking shall be 1/2-inch CDX plywood installed with “H” clips (plyclips).

The roof underlayment shall be DuPont roof liner installed per manufacturer’s instructions.

Subfloor shall be 1-1/8—inch T&G sturdi-floor plywood. The subfloor shall be glued to the joists with construction adhesive and glued together at the tongue and groove.

WINDOWS

The windows will be white-vinyl frame, double pane, and low-e glass.

Style and type per plan

GARAGE OVERHEAD DOORS AND OPENERS:

The overhead doors shall be steel sectional paneled doors. No glass lites.

The openers will be LiftMaster ½-horsepower screwdrive with two remote controllers for each opener.

SKYLIGHTS

The skylights will be Velux aluminum clad fixed with laminated low-e glass. They will come with manual venetian blinds.

EXTERIOR DOORS

All door units will come with weather stripping, adjustable threshold, and double bored for lockset and deadbolt.

The side entry door will be 6-panel fiberglass, smooth (no texture).

The double door in family room will be full-view fiberglass, smooth (no texture).

The front door will be mahogany wood “Arlington Court” #4655 door and two-#4665 from the Heritage Collection.

WINDOW SHUTTERS

The shutters will be 15-inch-wide green-vinyl open-louver plantation shutters.

FIREPLACE INSERTS

The fireplace insert shall be a Heat-N-Glo Direct top vent Model 6000XLT with remote control.

ROOFING

The shingles will be GAF Lifetime high definition. The color will be Weathered Wood.

The shingles will be fastened with a minimum of four 1 1/4-inch roofing nails (staples not permitted.)

HVAC

The HVAC system will comply with the Uniform HVAC Code and include the following:

The HVAC system will be Amana 18-seer, 95% + efficiency with variable speed air handler.

The system will include two-zone electronic dampers, ultra-violet light, and media filter.

The ductwork will be aluminum flex duct with an R-6 insulation rating.

Install manual dampers in ductwork at the plenum.

The contractor shall provide a manual “J” load analysis.

CENTRAL VACUUM SYSTEM

The central vacuum system shall be the “Galaxie GA-100. The installation includes five power inlets and four vacpans. Locations will be approved by owner.

PLUMBING

The plumbing system will comply with the Uniform Plumbing Code and consist of the following:

The DWV lines will be installed using schedule-40 PVC.

The plumbing system will have 2 zones using the Manabloc control panels and PEX plumbing system.

There will be two Rheem tankless water heaters installed.

The homeowner will approve the locations of shower heads, faucets, and body sprayers/jets.

PLUMBING FIXTURES

The plumbing fixtures will include the following:

Kitchen sink – Kohler K-5931-4U-0 Executive Chef undermount cast iron sink. Color – “Mexican Sand”

Vegetable sink – Kohler K-5902-1U-K4 Sorbet undermount cast iron bar sink. Color – “Mexican Sand”

2 bathtubs – American Standard 5’ Cambridge. Color – “White”

Master bathtub – Jacuzzi Allusion 72” x 42” x 26”. Color – “Almond”

3 toilets – Toto CST416M-01 Aquia II Dual Flush Two. Color – “White”

Master toilet – Toto MS604114CEFG-01 Ultramax ll Het Double. Color – “Bone”

2 bathroom lavs – Kohler K-2950-1 Revival self-rimming. Color – “White”

Guest bathroom lav – Kohler K-14223-SR2 Vessel sink Caravan collection with Persia design.

Master bathroom lavs – Kohler K-2200 Vessel sink Vitreous China. Color – “Mexican Sand”

Utility sink – Kohler K-6663-3-0 single bowl self-rimming cast iron. Color – “Mexican Sand”

FAUCETS

The faucet selections will include the following:

Kitchen and Vegetable sinks – Moen Brantford 7185ORB. Finish – oil-rubbed bronze

2 bathtubs – Moen T2606 – stainless steel

Master tub – Moen T S243 Roman faucet – stainless steel

Master shower – Moen T S275 – stainless steel

2 bathroom lavs – Moen S442 – stainless steel

Guest bathroom lav – Moen T S 42114 – stainless steel

Master lavs – Moen T S42108

Utility sink – Moen 7590 – stainless steel

ELECTRICAL

The electrical system will comply with the National Electrical Code and include the following:

The main service will be a Square “D” distribution panel and circuit breakers.

All wiring will be a minimum size of 12-gauge romex.

All switches will be a rocker (décor) switch.

All electrical devices and covers will be white in color.

All locations of lighting, switches, and outlets need to be approved by the customer.

ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM

The home entertainment system will be the Bose Lifestyle V35. The pre-wiring for the system will be installed after the electrical rough-in is complete.

SECURITY SYSTEM

The security system will be Honeywell. Pre-wire for 4 door opening contacts, 27 window opening contacts, glass breakage sensors, 4 keypads, and interior siren

INSULATION

The insulation package includes the following:

Icynene in exterior walls and roof

Low-density foam sealant around window and door openings

SHEETROCK

The sheetrock will be installed as follows:

1/2 inch on interior of home, excluding tub enclosures and shower walls. These areas will be tiled and need to be covered with concrete board.

5/8-inch type-X fire-rated on walls and ceiling in the garage.

The sheetrock will be taped, floated, and finished smooth. There will be no texture.

BRICK

The brick will be Acme “Brazos Bend” king size. The detailing will be done as per elevations.

The mortar color will be white.

The brick will be cleaned with a lime solvent solution, brushed, and rinsed.

STUCCO

The stucco will be a three-step process with stucco applied over paper backed metal lath. The contractor will install a weep starter strip. The color will be “Champagne.”

The texture will be approved be the customer.

SIDING

The siding will be Hardi-Plank, 8-inch Colonial textured.

The siding will be installed in compliance with manufacturer’s guidelines.

1/8-inch caulking gaps will be provided at those areas where the siding butts up to trim.

Flashing strips made of Tyvek or similar material will be installed at every butt joint.

STONE VENEER

The stone will be a manufactured stone. The brand will be Cultured Stone. The selection will be

Bucks County 80% Southern Ledgestone (CSV-2056) and 20% Dressed Fieldstone (CSV-2030).

CABINETS

The kitchen cabinets will be Wood-Mode. The cabinet selection is Hunt Club Valet. The cabinet door selection is Barcelona Raised. The color is cherry.

INTERIOR DOORS

The interior doors will be textured Masonite, four panel.

PAINTING

The painting specs are as follows:

The exterior paint will be Sherwin Williams Duration.

The roof overhangs and siding will be “Alabaster” (SW7008).

The exterior preparation work will include using a 50-year acrylic-siliconized paintable caulking.

The interior paint to be used on walls and ceilings will be Sherwin Williams Pro-Mar 200.

The ceilings will be “White Flour” (SW7102).

The walls will be “Venetian Lace” (SW7119).

The interior woodwork and doors will be painted with Sherwin Williams alkyd enamel.

The woodwork color is “Pure White” (SW7005).

COUNTERTOPS

The kitchen countertops will be 3/4-inch-thick granite. The selection will be Blue Canyon. The edge will be

1-1/2 inch full bullnose.

A cut-out will be made for an undermount sink.

Holes will need to be drilled for faucets.

The customer will supply sink template and faucet hole pattern.

BACKSPLASH

The kitchen backsplash will be stone tile with granite accents. The stone tile will be 8” x 8” Gold Tumbled travertine laid on the diagonal. The accent dots will be Blue Canyon granite.

FIREPLACE FACE AND HEARTH

The fireplace face will be constructed of 12” x 12” slate tile. The selection is “Slate Autunno.”

The hearth will be constructed of granite slab. The granite is “Blue Canyon.”

VANITY TOPS

All vanity tops will be made of cultured marble. The selections are as follows:

Master bath – Oyster

Guest bath – Sea shell

Two baths – Charcoal Gray Swirl

Cut-outs will need to be made for undermount lav bowls.

Holes will have to be drilled for faucet.

The customer will supply the lav templates and the faucet hole pattern.

SHOWER SURROUND AND PAN

The shower walls will have 1/2-inch-thick concrete board installed as a sub-strate.

The finish wall material will be polished 16” x 16” travertine tiles. The selection will be beige.

The shower pan will have a 40-mil-thick shower liner and FHA floor strainer. Concrete sub-strate will be installed sloping to drain. The finish pan material will be pebble tile. The customer will select the tile.

Recesses in wall will be constructed for shampoo and soap. The customer will provide details.

The tile installer will install the liner and strainer.

TUB DECK AND WALL SPLASH

The tub deck and adjoining wall splash areas will have 1/2-inch-thick concrete board installed as a sub-strate.

The finish material will be polished 16” x 16” travertine tiles. The selection will be beige.

TUB SURROUNDS

The tub surrounds in two bathrooms will have 1/2-inch-thick concrete board installed as sub-strate.

The finish material in both bathrooms will be from the Icestone collection. The color will be “White Pearl.”

FLOORING

All bedrooms, closets, and hallway will be Stainmaster loop carpet in the whites/beiges color group. The color treatment will be multi, structure is tight and low sheen.

The two full bathrooms will be American Olean 18” x 18” “Catarina White” porcelain tile.

The master bath will be Shaw Floors Tivoli 20” x 20” “Golden Sienna” porcelain tile.

The foyer will be 12” x 12” “Black Pearl” granite tile

The kitchen, family room, dining room, and study will be #1 white oak select wood nailed down over screeds.

The wood will be stained and finished to customer selections.

APPLIANCES

The range/oven is a Viking 48” stainless steel Professional Series freestanding VGCC.

The refrigerator will be a Sub-Zero PRO 48 stainless steel with glass door.

The dishwasher will be a Bosch stainless steel SHX43P12UC 24-Integra 300 series fully integrated.

The microwave will be a Viking stainless steel drawer

This completes the chapter on specifications. The example set of specifications I provided you would be considered very comprehensive and easy to understand by anyone. I think you got the idea now. Do you see how important it is to have very specific information? For example, how screwed up could it have been if you had not supplied the appliance information this far in advance? It could have affected your framing and then started a rippling effect. Job well done!

Now that you know what you want, let’s see how much it is going to cost.

Let’s turn our attention now to the next chapter, which is formulating budgets.

.

CHAPTER 5

BUDGETS INTRODUCTION

This is a big one; this document will weigh heavily in your decision-making process. The first step in developing a good budget is to have a complete list of items that could be relevant to your home. Some categories you will be able to identify and understand immediately. Some of the categories you could do a web search for to get some additional information. Other categories you may need to get some help from a knowledgeable source.

You need to get more than one bid/price on every category that involves material and/or labor. You may or may not want to get more than one bid on categories that pertain to one-time service fees, such as engineering and survey fees, septic design, insurance policies, etc.

When you run across categories that you need to get more than one bid on, do not make it a habit of using the lowest price each and every time in your budget. Record the median price between the high and low bid on your budgets.

You may wind up using the low bidder later in the job, or maybe you won’t. Perhaps he will give you some explanation why the price needs to go up from the original bid. This will skew your budget in short order if all you recorded were the lowest prices. Be prepared for this possibility. Remember, chance favors the prepared mind.

The budget categories, as I have them formatted, should be at least 98% or more complete. If you are already in the homebuilding business, this budget format may help you to become better organized. You will notice that I left blank spaces in all the budgets—this for you to fill in additional items or activities that are relevant to your specific needs or area of the country. All the items contained in the budget were discussed at great length in “Descriptions and Explanations.” If you are uncertain about a particular category, go back and reread about that topic. I’ll provide you with the page number that references your category.

One more important issue: The pricing for material and labor that you get today may not be accurate when the time ultimately arrives that you are ready for the material or service. It depends on how much time has elapsed and the general economic health of the industry.

The following information is provided in order to assist you in determining your budget costs. You will be given the unit of measurement as it pertains to the basis of costing for each category. A quick reference guide below will explain each cost unit.

Directly after the name of each category, you will be provided with the basis of costing for each, and I will indicate if there are multiple ways of determining the costs for your budget entry.

You will always want to get multiple pricing and bids when feasible.

Fee

This is a cost assessed for a specific professional service rendered. This could also represent a premium for insurance policies. Examples of fees could be the engineer, surveyor, and builders’ risk insurance.

Price

This is the total cost of the material for a particular category. Your pricing entry should always include taxes and any applicable delivery charges. Examples of pricing would be windows, doors, and lumber.

Hourly Cost

This is a cost per hour to perform the work. This is my least favorite way of paying someone for work. Try to get an estimate from the subcontractor for how many hours it will take to do the job. It is my experience that you will have to take their estimate and add at least 50% more as your budget entry. Examples of this method include excavation contractors and day labor.

Labor Cost Per (unit of measurement)

This is the cost from a subcontractor based on square foot, square yard, square, lineal foot, and thousand count, to provide the labor and equipment necessary to complete a work activity. Foundation labor will price by the square foot. Roofing labor will price by the square (100-square-feet) increments. Brick masons will price by the thousands of brick they lay. This method is effective if you know exactly how many total square feet, squares of roofing, or exactly how many brick will be laid. Experience builders use this method. The new builder may be better served by using the labor fixed price approach.

Labor Fixed Price

This is a flat price from a subcontractor to provide the labor and equipment necessary to complete a work activity. Examples of this could include any of the above-mentioned contractors. Try to get them to give you a flat labor bid versus a unit-of-measurement cost. You will be able to control your budget much better.

Turnkey Bid

This is a flat price from a subcontractor to provide the material, labor, and all equipment necessary to complete a work activity. Examples of this would be the painter, plumber, HVAC contractor, and electrician.

The following budget information and recommendations are based on you being a one-time or a new builder. In your case, it will generally be safer using turnkey subcontractors that supply all material and labor for optional categories where it is feasible. The optional categories include foundation, roofing, drywall, flatwork, floor and wall coverings, and glass blocks.

Only when you gain more experience should you consider buying material and hiring labor for those optional categories. You, as a person who is only interested in building your home only, will never be able to acquire a long-term relationship with contractors. Your biggest risk is going to know when to pay contractors and when you should not. You will never have any more leverage on a contractor than the check you have not given him or her yet.

In the following budget cost section, the individual items are color coded as follows:

Main budget categories will be in red.

Support budget categories will be in blue.

Cost basis will be in green.

Page references for descriptions/explanations and supervision will be in purple.

Cost range information will be in black.

Budget entry information will be in green.

Terms information will be in pink.

I use the terms invoice and statement interchangeably. When I use the term invoice, I’m implying that this is a payment on demand transaction. Many of your payments to subcontractors and suppliers are going to be this type of payment. When I use the term statement, I’m implying that you have established credit terms with the suppliers, and you will be receiving a billing statement in the mail. I will remind you every time to get invoices. You need to maintain accurate records for your budgets in order to be able to compare the budgeted cost versus the actual cost.

As you pay your vendors, make any payments that were classified as a “change order” separate from the base budget payments. Use a separate check and identify it as a “change order for________.” You’ll want to do this in order not to skew the original budget bids/prices. This way, you’ll be able to readily identify the reason why you went over budget in various categories.

As part of your record-keeping process, you will need to get the address and social security number or tax ID number from every subcontractor. You will need this information in order to send out their 1099 forms at the end of the year for the IRS. This would not apply if the subcontractor is a company, corporation, or LLC.

QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE OF UNIT COSTING

Square foot (s.f.): This is an area 1’ x 1’. Foundation construction, framing, and tile flooring are just a few of the trades that use this unit of measurement for job costing.

Square yard (s.y.): This is an area of 3’ x 3’.

Cubic foot (c.f.): This is an area of 1’ x 1’ x 1’. Air flow is measured by the amount of cubic feet per minute. This is a common unit of measurement in the HVAC business.

Cubic yard (c.y.): This is an area of 3’ x 3’ x 3’. Concrete is priced by the cubic yard.

Lineal foot (l.f.): This is the straight line dimension from point A to point B.

Square: This unit of measurement is an area 10’ x 10’ = 100 square feet. This is the unit of measurement for roofing.

Per thousand (M): This is a unit of costing involving the price per thousand for brick and labor.

CONSTRUCTION BUDGET COSTS

1-SITE EVALUATION

Cost basis -Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 54

Supervision-page 235

The normal cost range for this fee is $100 to $300. Sometimes there’s no charge, depending upon your contractual relationship with the person who is doing the evaluation.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due upon completion of the evaluation and receipt of invoice.

2-SURVEY

Cost basis- Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 54

Supervision-page 235

The normal cost range for the fee is $1,000 to $5,000, depending on whether you are surveying a lot or metes and bounds acreage.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due upon receiving a minimum of six copies of the survey with original signatures and seals affixed, along with a copy of the invoice.

3-SOIL TESTING

Cost basis- Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 55

Supervision-page 235

The normal cost range for the soil test is $750 to $1,500 or more, depending on driving distance, number of borings, and depth of borings.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due after receiving three to four copies of the soil test report and receipt of invoice or statement.

4-BLUEPRINTS AND FOUNDATION DESIGN

Cost basis- Fee based on total gross square footage.

Descriptions and Explanations-page 55

Supervision-page 236

The normal cost range for the design fee is $1 to $2 per square of gross footage. The fee should include the cost for designing the foundation by the structural engineer.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee times the estimated gross square footage as determined in advance.

Terms: The designer’s fee will be broken up into progress payments. A down payment will be required upon receipt of contract and copy of invoice.

5-BUILDING PERMITS

Cost basis-Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 55

Supervision-page 236

The normal cost range for the permit fee is $200 to $4,000 or more, depending on whether you only need a county permit or if you are in a city where you have many more costs, including plan review fees, sewer impact fees, etc.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the building permit as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due at the time of permitting and receipt of invoice.

SEPTIC DESIGN-subcategory of building permits

Cost basis-Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 56

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for the fee is $250 to $350. This design is done by a registered sanitarian or septic contractor, depending upon the area that you are installing in.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due upon delivery of the approved septic design and receipt of invoice.

SEPTIC PERMIT-subcategory of building permits

Cost basis-Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 56

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for the fee is $100 to $300 (not including the building permit fee). In many cases, the septic permit will be part of the building permit.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due at the time of permitting and receipt of invoice.

BUILDERS’ RISK INSURANCE-subcategory of building permits

Cost basis-Fee (premium)

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 56

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for a 12-month builders’ risk policy is $750 to $1,500 or more, depending on issues such as size of home, type of construction, and other circumstances.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the premium as determined in advance by the insurance company.

Terms: This payment is due at the time of acceptance of the application and receipt of invoice.

GENERAL LIABILITY INSURANCE-subcategory of building permits

Cost basis-Fee (premium)

Descriptions and Explanations-page 56

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for a 12 month premium is $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on mitigating circumstances.

Special note: If your home is being built by a contractor, he would most likely apportion a percentage of his general liability cost to your job. In this case, there would not be a budget entry. If you are acting as your own builder and you decide to buy your own general liability coverage, then your budget entry will be the actual cost of the premium as determined in advance.

Special note: Most individuals for better or for worse do not buy general liability coverage unless they believe they might like to get into the business.

Terms: This payment is due at the time of application and receipt of invoice.

WATER AND SEWER-subcategory of building permits

Cost basis-Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 57

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for the fee is $750 to $2,500 or more, depending upon the diameter of water tap, the total of the sewer impact fees etc.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due at the time of application and receipt of invoice.

BUILDERS’ BOND-subcategory of building permits

Cost basis- Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 57

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for the bond is $1,000 to $2,500.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due at the time of application and receipt of invoice.

6-TREE REMOVAL AND SITE CLEARING

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 59

Supervision-page 236

The normal cost range for tree removal and site clearing for a heavily wooded one-acre lot is $3,000 to $6,000. This would include hauling off all removed trees and debris. Many parts of the country have instituted burn bans and won’t permit the contractor to burn on site.

Your budget entry will be the median bid from the tree removal/grading subcontractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

7-SITE FILL AND ROUGH GRADING

Preferred cost basis- Prices for material and turnkey bid for grading work.

Descriptions and Explanations-page 59

Supervision-page 237

The normal cost range for site fill is $65 to $90 per dump truck load (12 c.y.)

The normal cost range for grading is $60 to $80 per hour (including equipment and operator).

Your budget entry will be the number of loads of fill dirt estimated by the contractor, plus the total number of hours of grading time.

Terms: The payment for fill dirt is due upon delivery of the material and receipt of invoice or statement.

Terms: The payment for the grading contractor is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

8-ACCESS ROAD

Preferred cost basis- Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 59

Supervision-page 237

The normal cost range is $1000 to $5000 or more, depending upon the length of the road and how well you make it. A 50-foot access should not cost more than $1,500, depending upon the road base material.

Both scenarios are predicated upon grading and installing a proper clay base first, before applying the road base.

Your budget entry will be the median bid from the turnkey subcontractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

9-CULVERT INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 60

Supervision-page 238

The normal cost range for turnkey service (including mat/labor) is $1,000 to $2,500, depending upon what the culvert is made out, the diameter, how long it is, and whether or not it is being installed on a state, county, or local road.

Your budget entry will be the median bid from the turnkey subcontractors.

Terms: The payment for this is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

10-PRELIMINARY SITE LAYOUT

Cost basis- Builder item or fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 60

Supervision-page 238

The normal cost range for this fee is $100 to $300. Read category #10 in chapter 3 for explanation.

This is normally a builder item, unless you are acting as the builder and need help with this process.

Your budget entry will be the actual cost of the fee as determined in advance, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

11-TEMPORARY POWER

Cost basis- Fees may or may not apply

Descriptions and Explanations-page 60

Supervision-page 238

Normal cost range does not apply.

The service provider will have to set the transformer first. There may or not be any charges depending upon the distance the service provider has to install power lines and poles. You may have exceeded what you would have gotten for free;

The electrician generally provides the T-pole as part of his contract. Ask the electrician if any fees apply.

Your budget entry will be the actual fee that is determined by the service provider in advance, if applicable.

Terms: The fee, if there is going to be one, can in many cases be broken up into increments payable in your monthly bill.

12-WATER WELL

Cost basis- Turnkey bids or fixed cost per lineal foot of depth

Descriptions and Explanations-page 61

Supervision-pages 239–241

The normal cost range is $20 to $30 per lineal foot of drilling depth. This includes a complete system.

There are options for size of pumps, type of screen, etc. that could impact the final cost.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the water well contractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

13-CONSTRUCTION WATER

Cost basis- Fee

Descriptions and Explanations-page 62

Supervision-page 241

The normal cost range for this installation fee is $100 to $300 if the plumber installs the hose bib adjacent to the meter. You could then run a garden hose back to the job site.

Your budget entry is the actual estimate for the installation provided by the plumber in advance.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice. After this installation is complete, you will be receiving a monthly bill for water usage.

14-BASEMENT EXCAVATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 62

Supervision-pages 241–244

The normal cost range is $1,500 to $3,500 or more, depending upon size of hole, how many cubic yards of excavation spoils are there, and how far the spoils need to be pushed. Backfilling dirt around the foundation is covered under foundation grading.

Your budget entry is the median bid from the excavation subcontractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

15-SHALLOW FOUNDATION DIRT WORK

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Descriptions and Explanations-page 63

Supervision-pages 245–246

The normal cost range is $60 to $80 per hour for spreading and compaction of underfill material. Get a flat price from the contractor to do the job. You will be better off.

Your budget entry will be the median bid from the excavation subcontractors based on a flat price. Avoid paying by the hour.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

FOUNDATION UNDERFILL-subcategory of shallow foundation site work

Cost basis-Price per cubic yard

Descriptions and Explanations-page 63

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range of the underfill is $9 to $11 per cubic yard delivered.

Your budget entry will be the calculated total of the estimated cubic yards. The estimate has to allow for the compaction factor of loose fill.

Example: You need to construct a foundation pad that has an average depth of two feet. The length of the pad is 80 feet, and the width of the pad is 60 feet including the run-out (see note). How many cubic yards of underfill are required to develop the pad? Note-the pad will always be larger than the actual size of the foundation by at least 3 feet in all directions. This is referred to as the run-out. This allows for some leeway in positioning the foundation.

Solution: 2’ x 80’ x 60’ = 9,600 c.f. divided by 27 (number of cubic feet in a c.y.) = 356 c.y. + 40% (142 c.y.) compaction factor = 498 total cubic yards of purchased underfill material

Cost: 498 c.y. at $10 per c.y. = $4,980

Terms: This payment for the underfill is due upon delivery and receipt of invoice or statement.

16-CONCRETE PUMPER TRUCK

Cost basis- Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 75

Supervision-page 247

The normal cost range for the pumper truck is $1,000 to $2,500 for the foundation pour. As mentioned, the price is impacted by how big the truck is, how many yards of concrete are pumped, and how long you keep the truck tied up on the job. Most concrete pumping operations are three to six hours long.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the concrete-pumping companies.

Terms: This payment is due upon the completion of the pumping operation and receipt of invoice or statement.

17-DRILLED PIERS

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 64

Supervision-pages 247–248

The engineer will determine if drilled piers are required. He will determine the type of pier, the locations, and the depth at which they will be founded. For the purposes of general rough estimating, you could calculate 1 drilled pier for each 100 square feet of foundation area. You won’t be far off the mark. You may be better off to wait until you receive the engineers design before you start doing any cost estimating.

The normal cost range is $100 to $300 or more per pier, depending upon the depth, diameter, and type of pier.

This cost range includes drilling, rebar, concrete, and labor.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the foundation subcontractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice or statement.

18-TOILET FACILITIES

Cost basis-Price

Descriptions and Explanations-page 65

Supervision-page 249

The normal cost range for this service is $80 to $100 per month. This should include once-a-week cleaning. Note-price will increase if you need twice a week cleaning during periods of heavy use.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the temporary toilet suppliers.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of monthly statement.

19-BARRIER FENCING

Cost basis-Material and labor cost

Descriptions and Explanations-page 66

Supervision-page 249

The normal cost range for this service is $200 to $500 or more. The actual price will be impacted by such things as the length and height, the space between the posts, and the fencing material.

Your budget entry will be the estimated cost of the installation as determined in advance.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

20-TRASH CONTAINER AND DEBRIS REMOVAL

Cost basis-price per waste container

Descriptions and Explanations-page 66

Supervision-page 249

The normal cost range for one 40-yard roll-off container is $450 to $550. Estimate one container for each 1,250 square feet of gross framed area rounded up.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the waste container suppliers, plus labor for the suggested schedule of cleanings.

Example: What is the budget cost for trash containers and debris removal for a home that has 5,600 square feet of gross framed area?

Solution: 5,600 s.f. gross area would require five 40-yard containers plus $200 of misc. labor costs of debris removal for each container (this represents an apportioned amount of the total cleanouts)

Cost: Containers - 4 at $500 each = $2,500 total for containers

Cost: Labor based on the number of containers-5 at $200 each = $1,000 total for misc. labor costs of debris removal.

Total cost for trash containers and debris removal: $3,500

Terms: The payments for the waste containers are due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

Terms: The payments to an hourly laborer for the house and premises cleaning will be due upon completion of each cleanout and receipt of invoice.

21-JOB SITE SECURITY

Cost basis-Material and labor cost

Descriptions and Explanations-page 67

Supervision-page 249

The normal cost range is $0 to $500 or more, depending on what needs to be done to make it secure. Read item #21 in Chapter 3 for the various methods of security. You will have to make the determination of how vulnerable your job site is and then adjust your budget accordingly.

Your budget entry needs to be whatever amount you believe that it’s going to take in order to secure the jobsite and minimize theft.

Terms: This payment will be due upon satisfactory completion of each facet of the security work.

22-FOUNDATION CONSTRUCTION

Cost basis-Turnkey bids or material and labor costs

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 68–75

Supervision-pages 249–265

The normal cost range of basement foundations is $10 to $15 per square foot or more. Influencing factors are size, depth, type and thickness of walls (concrete block, poured concrete walls, ICF forms). An overlooked factor is how many turns in the foundation, are there going to be. A square or rectangular basement is a lot less expensive than one that has multiple angles. The costs should always include a complete perimeter drainage system, including sump crock and pump. Excavation and backfill are separate pricing categories.

The normal cost range of concrete slab foundations is $7 to $9 per square foot or more. Influencing factors could be extreme soil expansion and engineering requirements. Drilled piers and underfill are in separate pricing categories.

Your budget entry needs to be the median turnkey bid from the foundation contractors or total costs of material and labor.

Terms: The payment will be due upon satisfactory completion of the foundation and receipt of invoice.

ENGINEERING INSPECTIONS-subcategory of foundation construction

Cost basis-Fee per inspection or a fee for a package of inspections

Descriptions and Explanations-page 65

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for the fee is $150 to $300 for one inspection.

Your budget entry will be the total number of inspections times the cost per inspection.

Terms: This payment is due upon completion of each inspection and receipt of invoice.

23-UNDERGROUND PLUMBING

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 72

Supervision-page 256–257

The normal cost range for the total job is $4.50 to $6.50 per square foot of living footage. This is a shoot-from-the-hip technique that will get you in the ballpark. The plumber will actually count all the fixture units and estimate in a more precise way. The actual proposal will be influenced by factors such as what the plumber is going to include and the quality of what is included, how many plumbing zones are there going to be, etc.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the plumbing subcontractors.

The following is a sample calculation:

3,000 sq. ft. of living space x $5 per s.f. = $15,000

This price does not include sewer and water line installations. They are covered under different categories.

The original total proposal = |  | $15,000
30% payment due upon completion of underground work = |  | 4,500 Payment due
35% payment due upon completion of rough-in plumbing = |  | 5,250 (Enter this amount in category #35)
35% payment due upon completion of finish plumbing = |  | 5,250 (Enter this amount in category #70)

Terms: The rough-in portion of the bid will be 30% for the underground portion, and 35% of the bid will be applied to the rough-in plumbing category, with 35% applied to the finish plumbing category. The 30% payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the underground phase of work and receipt of invoice. Of course, these percentages are negotiable, but I’m very close.

24-UNDER-SLAB TERMITE TREATMENT

Cost basis-Price per square foot of foundation area

Descriptions and Explanations-page 73

Supervision-page 258

The normal cost range for the pretreatment is $0.25 to $0.30 per square foot of the foundation area.

Your budget entry will be the median cost per square foot times the square footage of the total foundation.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

25-UNDER-SLAB ELECTRICAL

Preferred cost basis-Part of a turnkey bid proposal

Descriptions and Explanations-page 75

Supervision-page 262

There is no normal cost range for this category.

Your budget entry will be the turnkey bid for electrical. See category #37.

Terms: As outlined in category #37

26-FOUNDATION GRADING

Preferred cost basis- Turnkey bids or hourly cost

Descriptions and Explanations-page 76

Supervision-page 266

The normal cost range for backfilling and foundation grade is $500 to $1,500, depending upon the type and size of the foundation and the size of the area to be graded.

Your budget entry will be the median bid to do the job at a flat price. (This is the best way.)

Terms: In both cases, this payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

27-FRAMING

Preferred cost basis-Labor bids per square foot of gross framed area

Descriptions and Explanations-page 76

Supervision-pages 267–316

The normal cost range for framing labor is $3.50 to $8.00 per square foot of the gross framed area. The actual price will be influenced by the type of foundation, style of home, and how many floors high.

Your budget entry will be the median bid for the cost per square feet of gross framed area times the number of square feet.

Terms: This one is very tricky. The carpenter will probably want you to pay him a labor draw every Friday. The problem is how do you know that he has earned it? The last thing you want to do is let the carpenter get ahead of you in money. You would be surprised how quickly they lose interest in completing the job. If you are not knowledgeable or comfortable in paying him this way, here is my suggestion: Pay him in increments at certain completed mile markers along the way. These are percentages of his total bid price. I’ve provided you with a suggested payment schedule for the framer on the following pages.

The following payment schedules are designed to keep the flow of payments balanced with the amount of work that is completed. The payment schedules list items that are to be completed before payment is made.

Payment schedule for a one-story home built on a concrete-slab foundation:

Exterior and interior walls and exterior sheathing-15%

Ceiling joists-10%

Roof framing-20%

Cornice (fascia, soffit, and frieze) and roof decking-15%

Housewrap, windows, and doors-10%

Siding and trim-15%

Interior completion and punchout-5%

Hold back until framing inspection is complete-10%

Payment schedule for a two-story home built on a concrete-slab foundation:

First-floor walls and exterior sheathing-10%

First-floor ceiling joists and second-floor decking-10%

Second-floor walls and exterior sheathing-10%

Second-floor ceiling joists-5%

Roof framing-15%

Cornice and roof decking-10%

Housewrap, windows, and doors-12.5%

Siding and trim-12.5%

Interior completion and punchout-5%

Hold back until framing inspection is complete-10%

Payment schedule for a one-story home built on a basement foundation:

Construct basement deck-7.5%

Exterior and interior walls (including sheathing)-15%

Install ceiling joists-7.5%

Roof framing-15%

Cornice, roof decking, and underlayment-15%

Housewrap, windows, and doors-10%

Siding and trim-15%

Interior completion and punchout-5%

Hold back until framing inspection is complete-10%

Payment schedule for a two-story home built on a basement foundation:

Construct basement deck-5%

First-floor walls and exterior sheathing-10%

First-floor ceiling joists and second-floor decking-5%

Second-floor walls and exterior sheathing-10%

Second-floor ceiling joist-5%

Roof framing-15%

Cornice and roof decking-10%

Housewrap, windows, and doors-10%

Siding and trim-10%

Interior completion and punchout-5%

Hold back until framing inspection is complete-10%

Payment schedule for a one-story home built on a pier-and-beam foundation:

Construct floor-10%

Exterior and interior walls (including sheathing)-15%

Install ceiling joists-5%

Roof framing-15%

Cornice, roof decking, and underlayment-10%

Housewrap, windows, and doors-15%

Siding and trim-15%

Complete interior work and punchout-5%

Hold back until framing inspection is complete-10%

Payment schedule for a two-story home built on a pier-and-beam foundation:

Construct floor-10%

First-floor walls and exterior sheathing-10%

First-floor ceiling joists and second-floor decking-5%

Second-floor walls and exterior sheathing-10%

Second-floor ceiling joists-5%

Roof framing-15%

Cornice and roof decking-10%

Housewrap, windows, and doors-10%

Siding and trim-10%

Interior completion and punchout-5%

Hold back until framing inspection is complete-10%

The progress payments are due upon satisfactory completion of each phase of work and receipt of invoice.

Obviously, some tweaking of this payment schedule may have to be done. For example, what if there is not any siding? What if the whole house has siding? Both parties need to agree on the payment schedule in writing before the work begins. You want a signed proposal from the carpenter as to the agreed terms.

I’m telling you right now, as sure as the sun sets, if you do not keep the carpenter in check; you are going to get taken advantage of. Need I say more? The carpenter may not like the idea of being paid this way, but there are few options of protecting yourself from overpaying.

For those who have established relationships with their carpenters, they may be able to work a deal with a handshake. The experienced builder will pay the carpenter a draw every Friday but will know when to pull the plug.

FRAMING LUMBER-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices from multiple suppliers

Descriptions and Explanations-page 76

Supervision-page 269–275

The normal cost range for lumber for a home built on a concrete-slab foundation is $6 to $7 per square foot of the grossed framed area.

The normal cost range for lumber for a home built on a basement foundation is $7 to $8 per square foot of the gross framed area.

The normal cost range for lumber for a home built on a pier-and-beam foundation is $9 to $10 per square foot of the gross framed area.

The actual cost of the lumber can be influenced by factors such as the grade of the lumber, the spacing, and how much detailing there is in porches, stairs, railings, etc.

The cost of the lumber can vary from one part of the country to another. Unless you’re experience at doing a lumber take-off, you would be better off having a lumber company do it for you. When possible; you’ll want to obtain multiple bids for the lumber package. Lumber will generally be the single most expensive item in the home.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the lumber supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable, plus 5% for overruns and fill-in orders.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

SUPPORT STEEL-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 77

Supervision-page 278

The normal cost range for support steel is $500 to $2,000. The support steel includes such things as steel beams, Lally columns, and brick lintels. It does not include structural-foundation steel.

Your budget entry will be the median price from supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due in advance before delivery of the material and receipt of invoice if you do not have an account or the payment will be due upon receipt of statement.

HURRICANE STRAPS AND CLIPS-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 77

Supervision-pages 281–282

The normal cost range for a total straps & clips installation for a 3,000-square-foot home is $1,000 to $1,500. This includes material and labor to install. The actual cost is influenced by such factors as how large the home is, what devices are required for your style of home, and what area of the country you are building in. Go online to read about products and methodology offered by Simpson Strong Tie Corp or Tamlyn Products.

Your budget entry will be the price from the supplier’s inc. tax.

Terms: This payment would be due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

WINDOWS-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices from multiple suppliers

Descriptions and Explanations-page 78

Supervision-pages 300–306

The normal cost range for windows for a 3,000-square-foot home is $3,500 to $5,000 or more. You might try using the formula of $6 to $10 or more per square foot of window size. Pricing will be impacted by factors such as the material that they are made from, single hung or double hung, tilt in and removable sashes versus fixed sashes, and the brand name. The window supplier will do a window takeoff from your plans and provide you with a bid.

Estimating example: Estimate the cost of 7-3060 single hung vinyl windows. Solution: Each window has 18 square feet. Multiply 18 x 7=126 square feet. Now multiply 126 square feet by $8.00. The total cost is $1,008. You are not going to be far off until you can get a firm quote from the supplier.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the window supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

EXTERIOR DOORS-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices from multiple suppliers

Descriptions and Explanations-page 79

Supervision-pages 307–308

The normal cost range for a home with four entry doors is $2,500 to $5,000 or more. Try out my guesstimate formula. It will get you in the ballpark. Not including the front door, estimate any other single entry door unit at $300 to $500. Estimate any other double entry door unit at $600 to $1,000. The price factors will be the height (eight foot door units will cost more than a 6’- 8” unit), style, and material the door is constructed of. The big variable is going to be the front door unit. The average price range I’ve seen for let’s say a single front door with two sidelights and a transom above is $2,000 to $4,000 for the complete unit. This pricing includes a moderate amount of decorative glass. This one door unit by itself could be $10,000 or more. Choose wisely!

This is one of those items where a lot of the budget entry is under your control.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the door supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

SKYLIGHTS-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 79

Supervision-pages 309–311

The normal cost range for one 4’ x 4’ skylight is $300 to $500 or more. The actual price will be impacted by factors such as glass options, fixed or venting, manual venting or electric venting, plus blinds, etc.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the skylight supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

SPECIAL COLUMNS-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 80

Supervision-page 312

The normal cost range for exterior columns is $250 to $1,000 or more. The actual price will be impacted by the style, material, diameter, length, and whether or not it is load bearing or non–load bearing.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the column supplier’s inc. tax and delivery and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: These are going to be a special-order item and, as such, will have to be paid for in advance of the order upon receipt of invoice.

SIDING MATERIAL-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 80

Supervision-pages 312–313

The normal cost range for siding material per square foot of applied area is $1.50 to $3.00 or more. This range should include any matching material for trim boards, etc. For example, Hardi-siding should have Hardi-trim.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the siding supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Special note-The siding may have already been included with the framing package take-off. The framing carpenter’s bid should have included the labor to install the siding.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

WINDOW SHUTTERS-subcategory of framing

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 81

Supervision-page 313

The normal cost range for exterior window shutters is $50 to $500 or more per pair. The factors that influence the actual price are design, width, length, material, and if they are fixed or operational.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the shutter supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

28-GARAGE DOORS

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 82

Supervision-page 316

The normal cost range for garage overhead doors is $350 to $1,000 or more. The actual price is impacted by the size, type of material, insulation, and style. This does not include the opener, which is taken up in a later category.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the garage overhead door suppliers/installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon the satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice or statement.

29-FIREPLACE INSERTS

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 82

Supervision-pages 317–319

The normal cost range is $1,500 to $3,000 or more. Influencing cost factors are style, functions, and usage.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the fireplace insert suppliers/installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice or statement.

30-SEPTIC SYSTEM

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 83

Supervision-pages 320

The normal cost range is $5,000 to $10,000 or more. The actual cost will be influenced by factors such as the type of system, size, and engineering requirements.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the septic contractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory of the work and receipt of invoice or statement.

31-HVAC ROUGH-IN

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 84–88

Supervision-pages 321–332

The normal cost range is $1,500 to $2,500 or more per ton of heating and air-conditioning. The actual price is determined by factors such as the type and quality of the system, optional installations, results of manual “J” load analysis, and seer rating.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the HVAC subcontractors.

The following is an example calculation:

3,000 sq ft. living space requires 6 tons as determined by the manual “J”

6 tons x $2,200 = $13,200

The original total example proposal = |  | $13,200
60% payment due upon completion of rough-in work = |  | 7,920 Payment due
40% payment due upon completion of finish work = |  | 5,280 (Enter this amount in category #69)

Terms: The rough-in portion is 60% of the bid. The other 40% will be applied to the HVAC finish budget.

The rough-in payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

32-SEWER LINE

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids based on lineal footage

Descriptions and Explanations-page 89

Supervision-page 333

The normal cost range is $10 to $20 per lineal foot. The main influencing factor will be how deep the line has to be.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the plumbing subcontractors or other authorized installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

33-WATER LINE

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids based on lineal footage

Descriptions and Explanations-page 89

Supervision-page 333

The normal cost range is $3 to $6 per lineal foot. The main issues will be the diameter of the line and the depth it has to be laid.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the plumbing subcontractors or other authorized installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

34-PLUMBING ROUGH-IN

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 90–91

Supervision-pages 334–340

The original total example proposal = |  | $15,000
30% payment due upon completion of underground work = |  | 4,500 Paid at completion of underground
35% payment due upon completion of rough-in plumbing = |  | 5,250 Payment due
35% payment due upon completion of finish plumbing = |  | 5,250 (Enter this amount in category #70)

Your budget entry is 35% of the bid for the rough-in plumbing as described in category #22.

Terms: The rough-in payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

35-ROOFING

Cost basis-Turnkey bids or labor per square only

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 92

Supervision-pages 341–345

The normal turnkey cost range for 30 year composition shingles is $125 to $170 or more per square. This price is greatly influenced by the type of roofing you want. Composition roofing is the least expensive choice of roofing materials.

Your budget entry for roofing will be the median turnkey bid from the roofing contractors for the entire job.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal cost for labor only is $25 to $40 per square of roofing applied.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square. Factors such as roof pitch and how complicated the roof is will influence the labor price.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion and receipt of invoice.

ROOF MATERIAL-subcategory of roofing

Cost basis-Turnkey bid or material prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 92

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for a square of 30 year composition roofing is $80 to $120. This includes all associated materials, such as roof vents, drip edge, nails, caulking, spray paint, flashing, etc.

Your budget entry will be the total material price from the roofing material suppliers.

Special note: If your roofing material is being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for roofing material is 0.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

36-CENTRAL VACUUM ROUGH-IN

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 93–94

Supervision-pages 346–348

The normal cost range is $1,000 to $2,000 or more, depending upon size of system, features, and options.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the central vacuum supplier/installers.

The following is an example calculation:

The original total example proposal = |  | $1,800
50% payment due upon completion of the rough-in system = |  | 900 Payment due
50% payment due upon completion of the finish system = |  | 900 (Enter this amount in category #75)

Terms: The rough-in portion will be 50% of the bid. The remaining 50% will be applied to the finish central vacuum phase. The rough-in payment is due upon the satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

37-ELECTRICAL ROUGH-IN

Preferred cost basis- Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 94

Supervision-pages 349–356

The normal cost range for the total job is $4 to $6 per square foot of living footage. This is also a shoot-from-the-hip technique for calculating total costs. The electrician will employ a much more precise method.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the electrical subcontractors.

The following is an example calculation:

3,000 sq ft. living space x $5 per s.f. = $15,000

The original total proposal = |  | $15,000
60% payment due upon completion of rough-in work = |  | 9,000 Payment due
40% payment due upon completion of finish work = |  | 6,000 (Enter this amount in category #71)

Terms: The rough-in payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

38-ENTERTAINMENT WIRING ROUGH-IN

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 94

Supervision-page 356

The normal cost range for the complete system is $1,000 to $10,000 or more, depending upon the system that you select.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the entertainment companies.

The following is an example calculation:

The original total entertainment proposal = |  | $5,000
40% payment due upon completion of rough-in wiring = |  | 3,000 Payment due
60% payment due upon completion of finish installation = |  | 2,000 (Enter this amount in category #78)

Terms: The rough-in portion will be 40% of the bid. The remaining 60% will be applied to the finish entertainment budget.

The rough-in payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

39-SECURITY WIRING ROUGH-IN

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 95

Supervision-page 357

The normal cost range is $1,000 to $5,000 or more. The influencing factors are how many openings, cameras, monitors, keypads, and recording devices there are going to be.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the security system suppliers/installers.

The following is an example calculation:

The original total security proposal = |  | $3,500
50% payment due upon completion of rough-in wiring = |  | 1,750 Payment due
50% payment due upon completion of finish installation = |  | 1,750 (Enter this amount in category #79)

Terms: The rough-in portion will be 50% of the bid. The remaining 50% will be applied to the finish security phase. The rough-in payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

40-EXTERIOR PAINTING

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 95

Supervision-page 357

The normal cost range to paint the entire home is $4 to $6 or more per square foot of living area. Factors that will influence the painting costs are quantity of cabinetry and trim, quality of paint, how much exterior painting, use of multiple colors, and garage interior painting.

Your budget entry will by the median turnkey bid from the painting subcontractors.

The following is an example calculation:

3,000 s.f. house x $5.00 = $15,000

The original total painting proposal = |  | $15,000
20% payment due upon completion of the exterior = |  | 3,000 Payment due
80% payment due upon completion of the interior = |  | 12,000 (Enter this amount in category #54)

Terms: The percentage of the bid that you pay for the exterior painting needs to be discussed with the painter before the job begins. There could be a minimal amount of exterior painting, or it could be a very complex job (e.g., a Victorian home). Your objective is to not overpay the painter for the exterior painting. The exterior painting payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

41-FRAMING TERMITE TREATMENT

Cost basis-Price per square foot of ground-level framed footage

Descriptions and Explanations-page 95

Supervision-page 358

The normal cost range is $0.20 to $0.24 per square foot of all ground-level framed area.

Your budget entry will be the gross ground level square footage times the cost per square foot.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

42-INSULATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 96–97

Supervision-pages 359–363

The normal cost range is $1 to $4 per square foot, depending upon the type of foundation, style of home, and the type of insulation used.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the insulation suppliers/installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice or statement.

43-DRYWALL

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 98

Supervision-pages 364–366

The normal cost range is $0.90 to $1.10 per square foot of surface-applied area, plus texturing of the living space.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from drywall subcontractors for house and garage.

The following is a formula I developed years ago for estimating the amount of square footage of drywall in a home. The formula is based on the square footage of the home in conjunction with the ceiling height.

It is as follows:

Ceiling height – multiplier times the square footage of area

8’ |  | 4.00
9’ |  | 4.25
10’ |  | 4.50
11’ |  | 4.75
12’ |  | 5.00

Note: The progression of the multiplier is the same to any ceiling height. The standard multiplier for a garage is 2.5 times the square footage.

Example: A. How many square feet of ceiling and wall area are in a 3,000-s.f. home with 10-foot ceilings?
B. How many square feet of ceiling and wall area in a 650-s.f. garage?

Solution: House calculation is 3,000 x 4.50 = 13,500 gross s.f.

Cost: House cost is 13,500 x $.90 = $12,150

Solution: Garage calculation is 650 x 2.5 = 1,625 gross s.f.

Cost: Garage cost is 1,625 x $1.20 (5/8” type-X, fire-rated sheetrock) = $1,950

Total cost of house and garage = $14,100 Note: This total does not include any special finishing work such as texturing, etc.

Note: If part of the home has one ceiling height and part of the home has a different ceiling height, you would split the square footage for each ceiling height and use the appropriate multiplier for each. Add the two square footages together to arrive at the total.

Note: This is only a quick estimating technique for establishing a preliminary budget. The drywall contractor will measure each wall and ceiling to determine how many sheets of each length the job requires. The contractor’s technique should be the more accurate of the two.

Special note: If my cost estimate is lower than his, I will negotiate with the contractor to my number.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

44-CAST-STONE INSTALLATION

Cost basis- Material pricing and labor bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 99

Supervision-pages 367–369

There is no normal cost range for this category because it is a very specialized and expensive operation.

Your budget entry will be the combined costs of material pricing and labor bids.

Terms: The material payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit to order and the balance upon delivery to job site and receipt of invoice.

The labor cost will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors who specialize in this type of work. No other contractor can do it. The cast-stone suppliers can recommend names of contractors capable of installing this type of material.

Special alert: Only use contractors that are highly skilled in installing cast-stone. If not, the results could be catastrophic. See Chapter 8 on the section about cast-stone and all the issues that are involved.

Terms: The labor payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

45-BRICK INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per each thousand brick laid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 100

Supervision-pages 370–377

The normal cost range for brick labor is $350 to $450 per each 1,000 brick laid.

The brick mason’s labor charge is priced per every 1,000 bricks laid. In addition to this base charge, they have extra costs for doing arches, quoined corners, and bay window angled cuts. It’s much too complicated to think about. The best way to deal with the masons is to show them your blueprints. Let them study the brick detailing and then give you a flat price to do the entire job. If they do not want to do that, they can adjust their price per thousand and include all the detailing.

Your budget entry will be the median labor bid per thousand from the brick mason subcontractors after adjustments.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

BRICK AND SUPPLIES-subcategory of brick installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-page 370–377

The normal cost range for brick is $350 to $500 per 1,000 bricks.

Estimating example: From the elevations, you would measure the width and height of each wall that is going to have brick applied. Always round up to the next highest dimension. Once you get this gross square footage, subtract the square footages of the windows and/or doors that are in the same wall. This will become the net coverage area. Multiply the net coverage area by the number of bricks required to cover one square foot (e.g., Kingsize brick will require five bricks to cover one square foot). For example, if the net coverage area is 464 s.f., and you are installing Kingsize brick, then you multiply 464 x 5 = 2,320 bricks required. To this number, you will add 10% more for cut and waste. That number will become the amount of brick ordered.

Your budget entry will be the combined costs of brick and supplies.

The brick cost will be price from the brick supplier for your selection.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

The normal cost range for brick supplies is $75 to $150 per 1,000 bricks. The supplies consist of mortar, sand, brick lintels, and wall ties.

The brick supplies’ cost will be the price from the mason supply company.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

46-STONE VENEER INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per each square foot of stone installed

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 101–102

Supervision-pages 378–381

The normal labor cost range for natural or manufactured stone veneer is $4 to $6 per square foot of surface-applied area. The installer’s price includes all miscellaneous materials, such as metal lathe, sand, mortar, etc.

Your budget entry for labor will be the median labor bid per square foot from the stone installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

STONE VENEER MATERIAL-subcategory of stone veneer installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal material cost range of natural stone veneer is $4.50 to $9.00 per square foot of surface-applied area.

The normal material cost range of manufactured stone veneer is $3.50 to $6.50 per square foot of purchased product.

Your budget entry for either material will be the price from the supplier for the material that you selected.

Terms: This payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit with order and the balance upon delivery to the job site and receipt of invoice.

47-STUCCO INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per each square foot of stucco applied

Descriptions and Explanations-page 103

Supervision-pages 382–391

The normal cost range for stucco is $4.50 to $6.00 per square foot of surface-applied area. The installer’s price includes all miscellaneous materials such as metal lathe, sand, mortar, and finish color etc.

Estimating example: From the elevations, measure the length and the height of the walls that are going to have stucco applied. Always round up to the next highest dimension. Do not subtract the square footage of the windows and doors. Multiply this number by $5 to arrive at your budget entry.

Your budget entry will be the median labor bid from the stucco subcontractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

48-FLATWORK

Cost basis- Material and labor

Descriptions and Explanations-page 104

Supervision-page 392–394

The normal cost range for flatwork material is $1.10 to $2.00 per square foot of formed area.

The normal cost range for flatwork labor is $1.00 to $1.50

Your budget entry will be the combined median costs of material and labor.

Terms: The payment for material is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

Terms: The payment for labor is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

49-SPECIAL CONCRETE FINISHES

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 104

Supervision-page 395

The normal cost range for special finishes is $5 to $8 per square foot.

This category is for specialized finishes such as stamping, staining, and other pattern finishes.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the special-finish contractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

50-FLASHING INSTALLATION

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 105

Supervision-pages 395–396

There is no normal cost range for this category. The installation of most of the flashing is shared by the framing carpenter, roofer, and brick or stone masons. This labor will have been built into their work proposals to you. There are occasions when a special flashing requirement develops. For example, a balcony pan is a special flashing that should only be done by a sheet metal fabricator.

Your budget entry is going to be the turnkey bid from the sheet metal fabricator.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

51-SPECIAL METAL WORK

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 106

Supervision-pages 397

There is no normal cost range for this category. This is a price-specific item.

This category would cover materials such as copper or other special metal installations. For example, it could be copper roofs on cupolas, copper gutters, and copper roofs on bay windows.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the sheet metal fabricators.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice or statement. In the case of special-ordered installations, full payment will probably have to be paid in advance of the order and receipt of invoice.

52-WROUGHT IRON

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 107

Supervision-pages 397

There is no normal cost range for this category. This is a price-specific item.

This category would cover wrought iron staircases, balconies, gates, etc.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the wrought iron fabricators.

Terms: This payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit with order and the balance upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

53-FINISH CARPENTRY

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 108–112

Supervision-pages 398–409

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per each square foot of living area

The normal cost range is $2 to $4 per square foot of carpentry installed area, if the carpenter is going to be hanging pre-fabricated cabinets along with all the other trim work in the home.

The normal cost range is $4 to $6 per square foot of carpentry installed area if the carpenter is going to be building the cabinets on site along with all the other trim work in the home.

Your budget entry will be the median labor bid from the trim carpenters.

Terms: The trim carpenter will probably want a labor draw once a week. This draw should be in proportion with the percentage of work completed versus what is left to complete. This draw is payable upon satisfactory completion of the work the carpenter is asking to be paid for and receipt of invoice.

CABINETS-subcategory of finish carpentry

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 110

Supervision-pages 398–400

The normal cost range for factory-made cabinets is $500 to $1,000 or more per lineal foot. This is one lineal foot of base with one lineal foot of upper cabinet together.

Your budget entry will be the price from the supplier for all the cabinets required per the plan.

Terms: This payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit with order and the balance upon delivery to the job site.

INTERIOR DOORS-subcategory of finish carpentry

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-109

Supervision-pages 401–403

The normal cost range for interior doors is $50 to $150 per door unit.

Your budget entry will be the price from door supplier for all the doors required per the plan.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

STAIR ASSEMBLY-subcategory of finish carpentry

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 111

Supervision-pages 404–406

The normal cost range for stair parts is $500 to $1,500

Your budget entry will be the price from the supplier for the stair parts.

Terms: This payment will be due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

FINISH TRIM MATERIAL-subcategory of finish carpentry

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 111

Supervision-pages 407–409

The normal cost range for trim material excluding cabinets is $2 to $3 or more per square foot of carpentry installed area.

The normal cost range for trim material including the material to build the cabinets on site is $4 to $6 per square foot of carpentry installed area. This price includes drawer slides and cabinet hinges.

Your budget entry will be the total price from the trim suppliers.

Terms: This payment will be due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

54-INTERIOR PAINTING

Preferred cost basis- Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 113–115

Supervision-pages 410–415

The original total painting proposal = |  | $15,000
20% payment due upon completion of the exterior = |  | 3,000 Paid at completion of exterior painting
80% payment due upon completion of the interior = |  | 12,000 Balance due

Your budget entry will be the balance of the example bid from category #40 = $12,000.

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

55-FLOOR TILE INSTALLATION

Cost basis-Turnkey bids or labor costs per square feet of tile installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 116

Supervision-pages 416–418

The normal turnkey cost range for floor tile is $6 to $15 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the tile contractors.

Terms: This payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit with order and the balance upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal cost range for labor only is $3 to $5 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot times the total wall area from the tile installers.

Terms: For labor only, this payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the job and receipt of invoice.

FLOOR TILE MATERIAL-subcategory of floor tile installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for floor tile material is $3 to $10 or more per square foot of floor area. Add 10% on to the tile quantity for cut and waste.

Your budget entry will be the total material price from the tile suppliers.

Special note: If your floor tile is being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for material is 0.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement. The supplier may want full payment in advance of order if this is a special-order tile.

56-WALL TILE INSTALLATION

Cost basis-Turnkey bids or labor costs per square foot of tile installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 117

Supervision-pages 419–421

The normal turnkey cost range for wall tile is $10 to $20 or more per square foot of wall area.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the tile contractors.

Terms: This payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit with order and the balance upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal cost range for labor only is $5 to $10 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot times the total wall area from the tile installers.

Terms: For labor only, this payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

WALL TILE MATERIAL-subcategory of wall tile installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for wall tile material is $3 to $10 or more per square foot of wall area. Add 10% on to the tile quantity for cut and waste.

Your budget entry will be the total material price from the tile suppliers.

Special note: If your wall tile is being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for material is 0.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement. The supplier may want full payment in advance of order if this is a special-order tile.

57-OTHER TILE INSTALLATIONS

Cost basis-Turnkey bids or labor costs per square foot of tile installed

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-page 422

There is no normal turnkey cost range for this category since these could be specialized jobs.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the tile contractors.

Terms: This payment will probably be split into two parts—50% deposit with order and the balance upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal cost range for labor only is $5 to $10 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot times the total area from the tile installers.

Terms: For labor only, this payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

OTHER TILE MATERIAL-subcategory of other tile installations

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

There is no normal cost range for this category. This work may be a specialty item. Add 10% on to the tile quantity for cut and waste.

Your budget entry will be the total material price from the tile suppliers.

Special note: If your tile is being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for material is 0.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement. The supplier may want full payment in advance of order if this is a special-order tile.

58-COUNTERTOP INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 118–122

Supervision-pages 423–425

The normal cost range is $20 to $120 or more per square foot, depending upon the material. For granite, you will have to add on at least 15% to the measured quantity for cut and waste. Depending on the graining and pattern of the granite, you may have to add considerably more for cut and waste.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

59-VANITY TOP INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 123

Supervision-page 425

The normal cost range is $20 to $120 or more per square foot, depending upon the material.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

60-TUB SURROUNDS

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per square foot of material installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 123

Supervision-page 426

The normal turnkey cost range is $10 to $25 or more per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal cost range for labor only is $5 to $10 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot times the total wall area from the tile installers.

Terms: For labor only, this payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

61-SHOWER SURROUNDS

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per square foot of material installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 124

Supervision-page 426

The normal turnkey cost range is $10 to $25 or more per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal cost range for labor only is $5 to $10 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot times the total wall area from the tile installers.

Terms: For labor only, this payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

62-FIREPLACE FACE AND HEARTH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per square foot of material installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 124

Supervision-page 427

The normal turnkey cost range for a fireplace surround is $10 to $20 or more per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal labor cost range for wall tile is $5 to $10 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot of tile times the total surface area from the tile installers.

Terms: The installer should be paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

FIREPLACE SURROUND MATERIAL-subcategory of fireplace surrounds

Cost basis-Turnkey or material prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for the material is $3 to $10 per square foot of applied area.

Your budget entry will be the total material price from the tile suppliers.

Special note: If your fireplace surround material is being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for material is 0.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement. The supplier may want full payment in advance of order if this is special-ordered material.

63-WALLPAPER INSTALLATION

Cost basis- Labor costs per each roll of paper installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 125

Supervision-pages 428–432

The normal cost range for labor is $30 to $60 or more per single roll, depending on the type of wallpaper.

For example, grass cloth costs a lot more to hang than standard wallpaper.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per roll of wallpaper from the installers. The installers should supply the sizing and paste.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

WALLPAPER-subcategory of wallpaper installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for wallpaper is $30 to $60 or more per single roll.

Your budget entry will be the price from the wallpaper supplier based on your selection and number of rolls required. Always purchase additional rolls for possible future repair restoration work.

Special note: If your wallpaper material is being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for material is 0.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

64-FAUX FINISHES

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 126

Supervision-pages 433–435

There is no normal turnkey cost range for this category.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the faux contractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

65-WOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 127

Supervision-pages 436–444

The normal turnkey cost range is $9 to $12 or more per square foot of floor area.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the wood-flooring supplier/contractors.

Special note: When estimating wood flooring, you add 10% more on to the square footage for cut and waste factors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

66-CARPET INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 128

Supervision-pages 445–449

The normal turnkey cost range is $45 to 55 per square yard of floor area, including carpet, pad, and labor.

High end quality carpeting will be in the cost range of $50 to $60 per square yard, just for the carpet only.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the carpet supplier/contractors.

Special note: When estimating carpet, you add 15% more on to the square yardage for cut and waste factors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

67-OTHER FLOORING INSTALLATION

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 129–131

Supervision-pages 450–452

The normal turnkey cost range is $9 to $12 or more per square floor area. This could include flooring such as bamboo, cork, and laminate.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the flooring supplier/contractors.

Special note: When estimating other flooring materials, you add 10% more on to the square footage for cut and waste factors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

68-GLASS BLOCKS INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per square foot of glass blocks installed

Descriptions and Explanations-page 132

Supervision-pages 453

The normal turnkey cost range is $20 to $40 per square foot of applied area.

These are still popular but need to be installed by a professional. I have seen many glass block installations botched up. They can be installed in a number of areas such as shower enclosures, privacy walls, window openings, etc.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the contractors.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

Or

The normal price range for labor only is $5 to $10 per square foot of wall area.

Your budget entry will be the labor bid per square foot of glass blocks times the total applied area from the installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

GLASS BLOCKS-subcategory of glass blocks installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for glass blocks is $3 to $20 or more per block. Most of the blocks are 6”x 6” or 8”x 8”.

Your budget entry will be the cost of the blocks that you selected and the quantity required.

Special note: If your glass blocks are being supplied by a turnkey contractor, then your budget entry for material is 0.

Terms: If the blocks are in stock, you pay upon receipt of invoice or statement. If the blocks are special order, you may need to pay for the entire order in advance.

69-HVAC FINISH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 133

Supervision-page 454

Your budget entry will be the balance of the bid from category #34.

The original total example proposal is |  | $13,200
60% payment due upon completion of rough-in work = |  | 7,920 Paid at completion of HVAC rough-in.
40% payment due upon completion of finish work = |  | 5,280 Balance due

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

70-PLUMBING FINISH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 134

Supervision-page 455

Your budget entry will be the balance of the bid from category #35.

The original total example proposal is |  | $15,000
30% payment due upon completion of underground work = |  | 4,500 Paid at completion of underground
35% payment due upon completion of rough-in plumbing = |  | 5,250 Paid at completion of rough-in
35% payment due upon completion of finish plumbing = |  | 5,250 Balance due

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

PLUMBING FIXTURES-subcategory of plumbing finish

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 135

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for plumbing fixtures for a 3,000-square-foot home is $3,000 to $8,000 or more, depending upon make, material, style, color, and options.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the plumbing fixture supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement. Any special ordered fixtures will have to be paid for in full at the time of order.

FAUCETS-subcategory of plumbing finish

Cost basis- Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 136

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for faucets for a 3,000-square-foot home is $1,500 to $3,000 or more, depending upon make, material, finish, and style.

Special note: When building a custom home, I discourage the owner/builder from letting the plumbing contractors include the faucets in their proposals. It can get too confusing and contested for a number of reasons.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the faucet supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement. Any special ordered faucets will have to be paid for in full at the time of order.

WATER SOFTENER-subcategory of plumbing finish

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-not applicable

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for water softeners is $500 to $2,500 or more, depending upon make, size, and quality of construction. The plumber will install but not supply.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

TANKLESS WATER HEATERS-subcategory of plumbing finish

Cost basis- Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 137

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for a tankless water heater is $700 to 1,200 or more, depending upon size, venting requirements, accessories, options, and make. The plumber will make the installation but will not provide.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due in full at time of order.

APPLIANCES-subcategory of plumbing and electrical finish

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 138

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for appliances for a 3,000-square-foot home is $3,500 to $10,000 or more, depending upon make, quality, size, and options.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the appliance supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due in full at the time of order.

STANDBY GENERATOR-subcategory of plumbing and electrical finish

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 139

Supervision-page 455

The normal cost range for a 20-kilowatt generator is $5,000 to $7,500, depending upon make.

The normal cost range for the plumber to install gas piping to the generator is $500 to $1,000, depending on the location of the generator and the distance to the gas trunk line.

The normal cost range for the electrician to install the transfer switch and wire in the circuits is $1,000 to $1,500.

Your budget entry will be the price you receive from the supplier you want to purchase from. The best pricing I have received for generators is online from NorwallPowerSystems.com.

Terms: This payment is due in full at the time of order.

71-ELECTRICAL FINISH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 139

Supervision-page 456

The original total proposal is |  | $15,000
60% payment due upon completion of rough-in work = |  | 9,000 Paid at rough-in
40% payment due upon completion of finish work = |  | 6,000 Balance due

Your budget entry will be the balance of the bid from category #37.

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

LIGHT FIXTURES-subcategory of electrical finish

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-pages 139–140

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for light fixtures for a 3,000-square-foot home is $2,000 to $5,000 or more, depending upon make, quality, quantity, finish, and style.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the light fixture supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

72-GLASS ENCLOSURES INSTALLATION

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 141

Supervision-page 456

The normal cost range for enclosures is $125 to $250 or more per lineal foot. Pricing depends upon quality, finishes, tinting, type and shape of glass.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the glass enclosure suppliers/installers.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

73-MIRRORS AND MISCELLANEOUS GLASS INSTALLATIONS

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 141

Supervision-page 456

The normal cost range for mirrors/glass for a 3,000-square-foot home is $500 to $2,000 or more, depending upon quality, edges, etching, tinting, type of glass, and quantity.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the glass and mirror suppliers/installers.

Terms: A 50% deposit and balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

74-FINISH HARDWARE INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Descriptions and Explanations-page 142

Supervision-page 457

The normal cost range for labor to install finish hardware is $200 to $500 or more, depending upon quantity and complexity of the hardware.

Your budget entry will be the price you get from the finish carpenter.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the installation and receipt of invoice.

FINISH HARDWARE-subcategory of finish hardware installation

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 139

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for finish hardware for a 3,000-square-foot home is $1,500 to $2,500 or more. This includes exterior locks, interior door knobs/privacy, towel bars, toilet paper holders, cabinet knobs, pulls, etc.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the finish hardware supplier’s inc. tax and delivery charges, if applicable.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

75-CENTRAL VACUUM FINISH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 142

Supervision-page 457

The original total example proposal is |  | $1,800
50% payment due upon completion of the rough-in system = |  | 900 Paid at completion of rough-in
50% payment due upon completion of the finish system = |  | 900 Balance due

Your budget entry will be the balance of the bid from category #36.

Term: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

76-GARAGE-DOOR OPENERS

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 142

Supervision-page 457

The normal cost range for garage-door openers is $325 to $400 installed.

Your budget entry would be the price for the openers from the suppliers/installers.

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

77-ELEVATOR INSTALLATION

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 143

Supervision-pages 458–459

The normal cost range is $12,000 to $25,000.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the elevator suppliers/installers.

Terms: A 50% deposit balance paid upon satisfactory completion of the installation and receipt of invoice.

78-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM FINISH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 143

Supervision-page 459

This involves installing speakers and equipment.

The original total entertainment proposal is |  | $5,000
40% payment due upon completion of rough-in wiring = |  | 3,000 Payment due
60% payment due upon completion of finish installation = |  | 2,000 Balance due

Your budget entry will be the balance of the bid from category #38.

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

79-SECURITY SYSTEM FINISH

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bid

Descriptions and Explanations-page 143

Supervision-page 459

The original total security proposal is |  | $3,500
50% payment due upon completion of rough-in wiring = |  | 1,750 Paid at rough-in
50% payment due upon completion of finish installation= |  | 1,750 Balance due

Your budget entry will be the balance of the bid from category #39.

Terms: This final payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

80-CONTRACTOR PUNCH LISTS:

Descriptions and explanations-page 143

Supervision-page 460

There is no budget for this category, but there’s a lot of supervision. All trades return to complete their punch lists.

81-HOUSE CLEANING

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Alternate cost basis-Labor cost per square foot of area cleaned

Descriptions and Explanations-page 143

Supervision-page 461

The normal cost range is $0.30 to $0.45 per square foot of living space

Your budget entry will be the median labor bid per square foot from the house cleaners.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

82-FINAL YARD GRADE

Preferred cost basis-Labor fixed price

Descriptions and Explanations-page144

Supervision-page 461

The normal cost range is $500 to $1,500, depending upon the size of the yard and how much dirt has to be graded.

Your budget entry will be the median labor bid per hour from the grading contractors. Try to get them to give you a flat price to do the job.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

TOP SOIL-subcategory of final yard grade

Cost basis-Prices

Descriptions and Explanations-page 141

Supervision-not applicable

The normal cost range for topsoil is $85 to $110 per 12-yard truckload.

Your budget entry will be the median price from the topsoil suppliers.

Terms: This payment is due upon receipt of invoice or statement.

83-GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

Cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 144

Supervision-page 461

The normal cost range is $1,500 to $3,000, depending on size of gutters and size of job.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the gutter suppliers/installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

84-FINAL DEBRIS REMOVAL

Descriptions and Explanations-page 144

Supervision-page 462

This is a continuation of the debris-removal budget first established. This is a final touchup.

Your budget entry will be the median labor bid per hour from the hourly laborers.

Terms: This payment will be due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

85-FENCING

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 144

Supervision-page 462

The normal cost range is $10 to $15 per lineal foot of fencing.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the fencing contractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

86-SPRINKLER SYSTEM

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 145

Supervision-page 462

There is no normal cost range for this category. The pricing will be based on the number of zones, sprinkler heads, etc.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the sprinkler system installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

87-DRAINAGE SYSTEM

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 145

Supervision-page 462

There is no normal cost range for this category. The price will be based on factors such as length and depth of system and the type of material.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the drainage installers.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

88-LANDSCAPING

Preferred cost basis-Turnkey bids

Descriptions and Explanations-page 145

Supervision-page 462

There is no normal cost range for this category.

Your budget entry will be the median turnkey bid from the landscaping contractors.

Terms: This payment is due upon satisfactory completion of the work and receipt of invoice.

This completes the basic definitions of budget categories. Remember, you can add, delete, or alter any of these categories to fit your individual needs and area of the country that you are building in.

.

Before we move into the budget forms, let’s provide some explanation as to how the budget forms are formatted.

There are five main columns. The first column defines the item or activity. You’ll notice that the categories in red are the main categories that follow the same numerical system that we’ve already established throughout the book. We have already established what the cost basis is for each category. There are sub-categories for many of the main categories that are printed in blue. A number of the support categories will be required for the successful completion of the main category. Some of the main categories that could be a turnkey operation will afford you the option of providing the materials yourself and hiring sub-contract labor to perform the installations. This is normally done to try and save money. Many experienced builders will do this. The sub-categories will have the words optional sub-contract in the notes column. An experienced homebuilder may provide materials for certain categories, but knows when not to on others. If you’re new to homebuilding, be careful about doing this because of the concerns for waste, theft, and warranty issues.

The next column is provided for any notes you may need to make. The third column is to record your estimate for the category. The fourth column is to record what the actual costs turned out to be. You may not know the actual cost of some categories until the home is almost complete. The fifth column is to record the difference between the estimated costs and the actual costs. This will help you determine how close you were to your original estimate. This will also help you to adjust your budgets for future homes that you may build. There are extra blank spaces provided for you to add additional categories as fits your needs.

Caution!!! Never record any change order transactions in this base budget form. Doing this will skew the numbers and you’ll lose track of your original objective which was to compare the estimated costs versus the actual costs. Keep track of change order costs separately.

May I suggest that when you write a check to a supplier or a subcontractor, always separate out anything that was a change order.

Always write a separate check for the change order. You will never regret doing this.

If you are computer savvy, you may want to set this up in Excel or other software format. If not, the forms provided will do the job just fine.

At a future point and time, you may decide to invest in expensive estimating software. I wouldn’t do this unless you know that you want to make a career out of homebuilding.

.

As you have discovered, constructing a budget is no slap hazard affair. It takes time to do it right. The success of your home depended on getting a handle on all the relevant costs. Give yourself some kudos.

You have now reached a major milestone for obtaining a construction loan. You spent the required time researching the costs and using realistic numbers. Now you will be able to rest assured knowing that you have not missed anything, and your home will fall in the budget perimeters that you developed. This fact alone takes a burden off your shoulders.

This exercise also gives you the opportunity to make a decision as to whether or not you can afford to move forward with the project. It is far better to find out now that you cannot afford it then later when you are already committed.

One last point, your budget can be affected by the length of time that passes between when you established the budget, and when you actually execute the activities. This is one of the reasons I encourage you not to post the lowest bids and estimates.

Now let us move on into contracts.

.

CHAPTER 6

CONTRACT INTRODUCTION

First, we need to define what a contract is.

A contract is a legally enforceable agreement between two or more parties with mutual obligations, which may or may not have elements in writing. Contracts can also be formed orally. The remedy at law for breach of contract is usually “damages” or monetary compensation. In equity, the remedy can be specific performance of the contract or an injunction. Both remedies award the damaged party the “benefit of the bargain,” or expectation damages, which are greater than mere reliance damages, as in promissory estoppel.

Contracts can be long, tedious, and boring. They can be designed and scripted by teams of attorneys. All these things you can do, but the underlying truth of the matter is it still takes two honorable parties to have a successful contract. If one of the parties has larceny in their heart, then the contract will begin to break down at some point in the construction. The parties have remedial action, of course, but what good does that do if one of the parties decides to leave the state or go bankrupt? You could spend tens of thousands dollars chasing after lost causes. The one party that benefits the most from your pain is the attorneys. There may be situations that arise that you have no choice but to sue the other party, but it better be worth the agony that you are going to go through.

It is in your best interest to avoid these conflicts to start with. Finding good, honorable participants is the key to minimizing your risks. Our first discussion in how to find builders and subcontractors will be enlightening reading.

Later, we are going to be delving into the nuances of formulating a contract. We will discuss the various elements of the contract. After the elemental discussions, I will provide you with a sample homebuilding contract. My sample contract is meant to provide you with a guideline of basic elements. It does not supersede your need to have an attorney review and amend the contract as necessary for your particular situation.

.

HOW TO FIND BUILDERS AND SUBCONTRACTORS

What good is a contract if there is not a second party to have a contract with?

Let’s start this conversation by talking about you first. I would like you to determine what your tolerance level for error is. Are you a zero-tolerance individual who is extremely anal about the slightest error or inconsistency in your life? Are you the type who would go to somebody’s house and notice that a picture is hanging crooked on the wall by one-eighth of an inch and have to walk over and straighten it?

Or

Are you the type of person who is so easygoing that nothing seems to bother you? Are you willing to accept just about anything that you are told or is done for you? The words precise craftsmanship never enters your mind—just build the damn house so you can have a roof over your head. If you are one of these people… well, God loves you, too.

These examples of tolerance levels are the lower and upper ends of what I call the 0 to 10 tolerance scales. If you are in the 0 to 2 range of the scale, you will not put up with any mistakes or discrepancies. If you are in the 3 to 7 range of the scale, you are in the group that most people are in. You are willing to accept some mistakes, but you know where you need to draw the line. And finally, if you are in the 8 to 10 range of the scale…well, God loves you, too.

Why is this important, you ask? It is very important because too many people building homes get matched up with someone on the wrong end of the scale. If you are in the 0 to 2 end of the scale, you have no business doing business with a builder or subcontractor who might be in the 8 to 10 end of the scale.

You need to seek out a builder who is as close to you on the scale as possible. You will get along better and be less likely to be at odds with one another. You will know what end of the scale they are in by interviewing them. Ask them questions about things you have learned in the book. Ask them what methodology they would employ as it pertains to particular construction issues. Wait for their response; I can assure you, they will show their hand.

Let’s see how this relates to cost. Builders who are precise, consistent, and conscientious in building their homes are probably going to be more expensive than a builder who is a slob. I do not mean to step on anyone’s toes, but the facts are the facts. Everyone wants to save money, but if you match up with someone who is on the wrong end of the tolerance scale from you, it could be disastrous.

How are you going to find a good builder or subcontractor? In all my years as a builder, I never met a subcontractor who did not say he was the best. We know that cannot be so. I would have respected the subcontractor more if he would have said, “I’m an idiot, and if you hire me, you will see that my work really sucks.” In past years, I found that out the hard way, and I do not want you to experience the fun. Let’s list the usual ways that people find subcontractors:

Phone directories

Referral

Word of mouth

A chance encounter

Newspaper circulars

Job signs

Flyers

Sometimes these ways work; sometimes they don’t. The one method that works consistently is to call a supplier whom a particular tradesman has to buy from. For example, let’s say you need a plumber; call a wholesale plumbing supplier who plumbers buy a lot of material from. Contact the store manager and tell them something like this: “My wife and I [or my husband and I] are fairly new in town and need the services of a plumber. We would trust your judgment if you could provide us with a few names of plumbers we could contact. These plumbers should be folks that have accounts with you and have done business with you for a number of years and pay their bills on time. If you trust them to do your work, then we’ll trust them to do ours.”

Do you see how this works? You have established the criteria by which you would even consider the plumber. You have established a history factor and a credit factor. There is a direct correlation between the plumbers who pay their bills on time and the quality of work they do. You have also established a personal relationship with the manager by letting him know that you would trust his judgment. After this little conversation, he will not give you anything but good names. I have used this technique for years.

If you were looking for a builder, you can employ the same technique, but this time you need to contact the major supplier whom a builder has to buy from. That supplier would be a lumber company. They are the single-largest supplier who builders do business with. Use the same story as before, but change the player. This works best if you get the store manager to personally give you the names. This process works even better if you go to the supplier and meet with the manager in person.

I’m not much into referrals unless you personally know the tolerance level of the person who had the work done. Besides that, a contractor is not going to give you the names of any bad referrals, unless he is stupid and does not think you are going to follow through on checking. For all you know, he could have given you the phone number of his mother.

Once you have assimilated the names and contact information all that is left to do is to interview them. Here’re 10 questions you can ask your potential builder candidate. These questions will go a long way in determining your choice.

How long have you been in the home building business?

What was your occupation prior to becoming a home builder?

How many homes have you built in the past two years?

Do you have homes under construction now that I can look at?

Is your supervisor knowledgeable in all phases of home building?

How long has your supervisor been working for you?

Will your supervisor be on my job every day when work is in progress to ensure the work is being done correctly?

Are you a member of the Better Business Bureau?

Are you a member of any trade associations such as the National Association of Home Builders?

Do you have the names and phone numbers of several of your customers whom I could contact?

How did your builder candidates respond to your questions? Were they forthright with their answers, or did they appear to be nervous and grope around in search of an answer? Did they enthusiastically volunteer information, or did you have to drag it out of them like pulling teeth?

Based on your interview, what do you believe their tolerance level for error is as it pertains to their profession? Did they have a good attitude, or did they appear defensive to some of the questions? Did they talk badly about any of their competitors? I would be very reluctant to hire someone who did. That would tell me that they also have issues. Can you and your spouse work with this person?

Well, how did it go? Have you weeded a few of them out? The only thing remaining now is to get their pricing. Isn’t that generally the defining issue? One worthy note: Do not let price be the only factor in choosing the right builder. Combine the price with all the information you learned to make your decision. If it turns out that the price is somewhat higher to get the right person, then so be it. Everybody wants to save money, but hiring the wrong builder will generally always cost you money, in one way or another.

I’ve always equated the experience of finding contractors to the art of juggling three balls in the air at the same time. The first one is the quality ball, the second is the price ball, and the third is the service ball. By all means, quality should be the first priority. Price needs to be commensurate with the level of quality you are expecting. Don’t forget service; you want to believe that the contractor will come back to your job and take care of any warranty issues that may arise. All too many times, the price overrides everything. Eventually, quality and service will become an issue, but by that time it’s too late.

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CONTRACT EXPLANATIONS

At this point, we have covered in detail what the tolerance level aspects are for finding the right people and how to find good tradesmen. The rest is up to you. Now let’s move into talking about specific elements of the contracts. The construction contract between you and the builder is different than the documents that are signed at closing. At closing, the builder will convey his lien position to the lender. The following is a list of elements found in a turnkey construction contract.

1. DATE OF THE PROPOSAL

2. THE NAME OF THE CONTRACTOR WHO IS GOING TO PERFORM THE WORK
This should be their full legal business name, including whether or not they are a corporation, a limited liability company (LLC), or a sole proprietorship.

3. THE NAME OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) WHOM THE WORK IS GOING TO BE DONE FOR
This is you and your spouse’s full legal name.

4. THE ADDRESS AND/OR LEGAL DESCRIPTION OF WHERE THE WORK WILL BE PERFORMED, INCLUDING THE TOWN AND ZIP CODE
At this point, there may not have been a street address assigned to your property, but you should be able to find out the town and zip code.

5. DESCRIPTION OF THE WORK TO BE DONE
In this case, it is the construction of a single-family residence.

6. THE SUPPORTING CONSTRUCTION DOCUMENTS
These are the blueprints and specifications.

7. THE STANDARDS OF CONSTRUCTION
These are the governing local and state building codes. These standards should also include the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines manual.

8. ALLOWANCES
Allowances are a specific maximum amount of money that a builder will pay to cover the expenses for a particular activity or material. There will be a list of all allowance items built into the contract. If an activity goes over the allowance amount, then the builder will invoice you for the amount of overage. If an activity goes under the allowance amount, then the builder will issue you a credit. It is a common practice to wait until all the allowance items have been completed before having reconciliation. The reconciliation will determine the net amount due to each party. It is important that the agreed-to allowance amounts are realistic and reflect your tastes and lifestyle. Do you remember this conversation from the budget-formulating chapter?

9. CHANGE ORDERS
This is where you can lose control if you are not careful. As the name implies, a change order is a deviation from the original contract and blueprint. The change order could be a reduction in the contracted work in which case the customer would receive a credit for all aspects of the eliminated work. More often than not, the change order represents an increase in the scope of the work or an upgrade in a material. In this case, you would want to know the full cost of the change order before agreeing to it. Many people have been blindsided by the total cost of accumulated change orders at the end of the contract. It is good business for the builder to collect for the change order in full at the time the customer accepts the price and executes the order. The builder should provide a change order form that outlines the scope of the change. The agreed-to change order form should be signed and dated by the customer.

10. SUPERVISION
This is one of the most contentious aspects of home construction. The word supervision means different things to different people. Supervision is the process by which it is determined that all work and materials used are in compliance with the blueprints, specifications, governing building codes, and the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. These criteria combined should define the “workmanlike standard,” which is another widely misinterpreted term.

It should be a part of the contract to declare that the work will be supervised daily for a length of time that is commensurate with the work that is being performed. The supervisor should be knowledgeable in all phases of construction as it pertains to making sure that all work is being executed properly, per contract documents, and that the work is complete. This is important because you do not want the builder to put someone on your job who is incompetent, just for the sake of saying the job is being supervised.

11. ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION TIME
This is normally the amount of time necessary to complete the contract. The construction time begins after all funding is approved and three business days have elapsed from the date of closing. This is to stay in compliance with the three-day right of rescission.

12. PRE—MOVE IN WALKTHROUGH
Approximately a week prior to closing, the builder and the customers shall walk through the house together. The purpose of this walk-through is to ascertain that the home is in move-in condition. Move-in condition implies the following:

Painting and wall coverings are complete.

All floor coverings/finishes are complete.

All countertops are installed.

Plumbing, electrical, and HVAC systems are in normal operating condition.

All light fixtures, plumbing fixtures, and appliances are installed and in normal operating condition.

Glass, mirror, and finish hardware are installed.

Driveways and sidewalks are installed.

Damage or other uncompleted items shall be noted and become part of the 30-day completion list.

THE CUSTOMERS SHALL SIGN AND DATE THE PRE—MOVE IN CHECKLIST.
*** Any backordered items not installed are excluded from this pre–move in checklist. ***

13. THIRTY-DAY POST MOVE IN COMPLETION LIST
Thirty days after move in, the customer shall submit a list of items to the builder that may include the following:

Any items from the pre–move in checklist not yet completed

Any backordered items to be installed, if applicable

Any additional items that may need correction/completion

14. EXCLUSIONS
The following items are not in the scope of the contract:

Association fees or assessments

Any item(s) not listed in the job cost budget

Any item(s) not listed in allowances

Any item(s) not drawn on the blueprint or listed in the specifications (The exception is if the item is a normal and usual process of work essential for completion of a shown item.)

Any costs mandated by local, state, or federal agencies

15. BILLS PAID CLAUSE
This declares that final payment will not be made to the builder until he provides proof that all material and labor bills have been paid. This could be in the form of checks that have been paid by the bank, receipts of payment signed by the subcontractor, or waivers of liens provided by the suppliers and/or subcontractors. A lender will probably want the builder to provide a contractor-sworn statement outlining which bills are still outstanding and when they are scheduled to be paid. It is likely that the builder may have residual vendors that have not been paid yet because of the credit terms that the builder has with the vendor.

16. WARRANTY
Warranty requirements will vary from state to state. You need to find out what applies in your state and make those requirements part of your contract. The sample contract includes requirements for the state of Texas.

17. MECHANIC’S LIENS
A “mechanic’s lien” is a charge or encumbrance against the title to real property (land and improvements) created by law to secure persons who have either labored or who have provided labor, materials, machinery, fixtures, or tools to erect improvements to land. The term “mechanic’s lien,” therefore, is also often referred to as a “mechanic’s and materialman’s lien.” The terms are synonymous.

18. INSURANCE
ABC Builders, LLC, will provide builders’ risk insurance and general liability insurance as a condition for acceptance. The builders’ risk insurance will remain in force during the period of construction. The general liability insurance policy should have a minimum blanket amount of $1,000,000.

19. EARLY TERMINATION
Terminating a contract is a serious matter that neither owners nor contractors should take lightly. If you do it for the wrong reasons or do not follow the right procedure, you could end up having to pay damages, as well as endure the problems that led you to terminate in the first place. The correct method to terminate a construction contract depends on various factors, such as local laws and customs and the termination clauses included in the contract. However, there are general guidelines the parties of a construction contract can follow to terminate it as painlessly as possible.

Write down the reasons for terminating the contract. This not only helps you clear your thoughts and ensures you have legitimate reasons to terminate the contract, but it is also useful if the other party of the contract takes legal measures and you must present your case in court. At this point, I would suggest you seek the advice of an attorney in order to make sure that the procedures are legal for your given state.

Give the contractor advance notice of your intention to terminate the contract. Ample time will be given to the builder in order to correct. Such notifications should be sent to the builder via certified mail with a return receipt. A copy of the notification should also be sent to the builder via regular mail. E-mails and faxes, although a convenient way of notification, cannot be used as a legally binding way of notification. For a contract termination to be valid, the contractor must not only have broken the clauses of the contract, but also be unwilling to remedy the situation.

20. DISPUTES

This is probably where you should seek the advice of an attorney who specializes in contract law. Such action may include binding mediation, binding arbitration, or civil action. I do not know which course of action is best for you, but this I do know: The big winners in a lawsuit or binding arbitration are the attorneys. Your claim better be of a substantial size in order to justify these types of actions. If the claim is no more than $10,000, you could consider small claims court.

Any legal action is going to be stressful and have negative connotations. Try to focus on what your original objective was, and that was to get a well-built home with the least amount of problems. Unless there are huge sums of money involved, binding mediation may be the best avenue for resolution.

Binding mediation is a melding of mediation and arbitration. It starts out with nonbinding mediation. If the parties are unable to reach a mutually satisfactory compromise, it converts to binding arbitration. The mediator can continue on as the arbitrator—one who has been educated on the true needs and wants of the parties as well as who is being reasonable and who is not. The prospect of this escalation encourages reasonableness at the mediation stage. The background information permits the mediator/arbitrator to better construct fair and reasonable remedies, taking into account practical business realities.

21. TOTAL COST OF THE PROPOSAL/CONTRACT

22. TERMS OF PAYMENT TO BUILDER

23. SIGNATURES AND DATE
All parties should sign and date the contract. This includes both of the spouses as well as the builder. These contract explanations are a guideline into formatting different types of contracts. Certain aspects of the contract will change depending upon the type of contract you entertain. We are now going to turn our attention to various types of contracts. You will have to make the decision which one best based on the type of customer that you are dealing with and the circumstances.

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF CONTRACTS

One of the things I’ve been an advocate of is to change the type of contract you use to fit the customer and the situation. I expound on this more in Chapter 10.

TURNKEY-This fixed-price contract is generally considered to be the safest contract for the customer. In this contract, the builder assumes all liability for cost overruns, theft, vandalism, and supervision. The builder, while taking all the construction risk, has the opportunity to make the maximum amount of profit if the home comes in under budget. The builder will list allowance amounts for selected categories. If the customer goes over the total allowances, they’ll pay the builder for the overage, plus their profit percentage.

PROS

The price is fixed based on the contract and allowance amounts. It will only deviate if the customer has change orders, goes over allowance amounts, or has to pay for items that weren’t part of the contract.

The builder assumes all contractual risks.

CONS

The builder may have a tendency to cut optional quality out of the home in order to maximize profits.

The customer’s input is limited to making selections from the builder’s suppliers.

The customer is not permitted to be involved in the building process.

COST-PLUS FIXED FEE- With the fixed fee contract, the builder will receive a flat fee based on a percentage (usually 10–20%) of the construction budget that was established up front. Regardless of the final total of the construction costs, the fee remains the same. Change orders are exempt from this contract. The builder will still receive an additional percentage that was originally agreed to for all change orders.

COST-PLUS ACCRUED FEE-With an accrued fee contract, the builder is going to receive a percentage fee (usually 10–20%) based on the actual costs that are accrued until the completion of the home. The total amount of the fee will fluctuate with the accrued actual costs as compared to the construction budget. At the end of the job, the builder submits a job-cost reconciliation to the customer. If the job expenses exceeded the total budget, then the builder is due his fee for the increase. If the job expenses are lower than the budget, then the builder owes the customer a refund for that portion of the fee that applied to the costs that came in under budget. The final fee will be based on the total of the actual costs. Accurate budgets are still a must.

PROS

The builder has no reason for cutting corners and/or quality. The homeowner winds up getting the exact home they ordered.

The customer can shop around for best pricing on the finishing materials.

The customer can buy from any source.

The builder still assumes the construction liability risks for theft, vandalism, and supervision.

CONS

There’s little incentive for the builder to get the best price from vendors.

The builder does not assume liability for cost over-runs.

MANAGERIAL/SUPERVISION CONTRACTS

This type of contract is the riskiest of all. The customer wants to be their own home builder and hire a third party to oversee the construction process. The customer should have a great deal of knowledge about homebuilding, contract negotiations, budgeting, scheduling, and supervision. The customer assumes all construction liability risks for cost overruns, theft, and vandalism, etc. There is no warranty provided by the construction manager/supervisor. The responsibility of making sure the right person is supervising the job falls entirely on the customer’s shoulders.

PROS

The customer is in full control over the construction process.

The customer can do a little or a lot of the work themselves.

The customer generally has the greatest opportunity to minimize costs in this type of contract.

CONS

The customer assumes all construction risks.

The supervisor is not responsible for cost overruns, etc.

NOTE-As you read the following sample turnkey contract keep in mind that I’m not saying that you have to use all parts of the sample but do use the parts that will keep you out of potential harms way.

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SAMPLE TURNKEY CONTRACT FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF A SINGLE FAMILY RESIDENCE

ABC Builders, LLC, proposes to build a single-family residence for Derek and Cindy Roesler. The job is located at 12345 Main Street, Pleasantville, 01234. The legal description is Lot 12, Block 3, Section 4 of Utopia Subdivision.

ABC Builders, LLC, will provide and pay for all labor, materials, equipment, tools, construction equipment, and machinery as necessary for the execution and completion of the work. The builder will obtain and pay for all building permits, licenses, and inspections.

The home will be built in accordance with the accompanying blueprints and specifications. The home will be in compliance with the International Building Code and local jurisdictional codes. The standard for workmanship will be the blueprints, specifications, and the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines manual.

ALLOWANCES

The allowances for the following items shall include all applicable taxes and delivery charges. Actual allowance costs will be reconciled after the completion of all allowance items.

$3,400.00 |  | Windows
$2,800.00 |  | Exterior doors
$1,900.00 |  | Fireplace insert
$1,250.00 |  | Fireplace face and hearth
$1,800.00 |  | Central vacuum system
$3,500.00 |  | Light fixtures (inc. ceiling fans)
$5,700.00 |  | Appliances (inc. installation)
$6,000.00 |  | Septic system
$6,500.00 |  | All plumbing fixtures (inc. faucets)
$1,000.00 |  | Laminate countertops
$5,400.00 |  | Solid-surface kitchen countertops
$5,000.00 |  | All tile work (exc. floors)
$4,400.00 |  | Cultured marble
$3,500.00 |  | Glass and mirror
$1,800.00 |  | Finish hardware
$6,000.00 |  | Carpet
$7,500.00 |  | Tile flooring
$14,600.00 |  | Wood flooring
$2,500.00 |  | Gutters and downspouts
$9,000.00 |  | All concrete flatwork

Total of all allowances……………..……$93,550.00

CHANGE ORDERS

The customer may, at his or her option, elect to modify the scope of the work as compared to the approved specifications and blueprints. If the change order reduces the scope of the work, then the customer will receive a credit for all associated costs. If the desired change order results in additional costs, then the customer shall pay for the additional costs when the change order form is signed and dated. Many change orders can affect several different construction trades. It is very important to remember that change orders can increase the overall construction time.

SUPERVISION

ABC Builders, LLC, will supervise daily all work in progress. The builder will ensure that the work is being performed in a workmanlike manner as defined by the blueprints, specifications, and the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines manual. It is also understood that the supervisor will be knowledgeable in all phases of construction as it pertains to knowing that all work is being executed correctly, per contract documents, and that the work is completed.

ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION TIME

The estimated construction time is eight months from the date of three days after the loan closing is executed.

ABC Builders, LLC, will complete the job within the time schedule, but cannot be responsible for delays caused by the following:

Material shortages

Prolonged inclement weather

Increase in construction time due to change orders

Failure of the customer to provide timely selections

PRE—MOVE IN WALK-THROUGH

Approximately a week prior to closing, the builder and the customers shall walk through the house together. The purpose of this walk-through is to ascertain that the home is in a move-in condition. Movein condition implies the following:

Painting and wall coverings are complete.

All floor coverings/finishes are complete.

All countertops are installed.

Plumbing, electrical, and HVAC systems are in normal operating condition.

All light fixtures, plumbing fixtures, and appliances are installed and in normal operating condition.

Glass, mirror, and finish hardware are installed.

Driveways and sidewalks are installed.

Damage or other uncompleted items shall be noted and become part of the 30-day completion list.

30-DAY POST–MOVE IN CHECKLIST

Thirty days after move in the customer shall submit a list of items to the builder that may include the following:

Any items from the pre–move in checklist not yet completed

Any backordered items to be installed, if applicable

Any items that may need correction/completion

EXCLUSIONS

The following items are not in the scope of the contract:

Association fees or assessments

Any item(s) not listed in the job-cost budget

Any item(s) not listed in allowances

Any item(s) not drawn on the blueprint or listed in the specifications (The exception is if the item is a normal and usual process of work essential for completion of a shown item.)

Any costs mandated by local, state, or federal agencies.

BILLS PAID DISCLOSURE

As a condition for receiving final payment, the builder must provide proof that all material and labor bills have been paid. This could be shown by the following:

Checks to vendors that have been paid by the bank

Receipts of payment signed by the subcontractor

Waivers of liens provided by suppliers and/or subcontractors

Contractor-sworn statement outlining which bills are paid, which bills are still outstanding, and when are they scheduled to be paid

ALLOWANCE AND CHANGE ORDER RECONCILIATION

The builder shall provide a final reconciliation for all allowance and change orders. The reconciliation will show the dates, a brief description, and credit or debit of each item. The reconciliation will be reviewed by both parties prior to loan closing.

WARRANTY

ABC Builders, LLC, will warrant all valid material and workmanship items for the following periods of time from the date of closing:

One-year warranty for workmanship and materials

Two-year warranty for plumbing, electrical, heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning delivery systems

In addition, the builder will provide a 10-year home warranty policy that covers many of the most frequently occurring breakdowns of home system components and appliances.

Items that do not constitute valid warranty claims include the following:

Normal settling of the residence

Soil conditions

Drainage problems caused by the owner’s landscaping

Normal and usual homeowner maintenance items

Normal and usual wear-and-tear items

MECHANICS’ LIENS

The contractor will pay, in a timely manner, all subcontractors and material suppliers for their respective performance of any of the work to prevent mechanics’ or materialmans’ liens from being filed against the property. The contractor will indemnify, defend, and hold harmless the owner for any such liens that are filed against the property (provided the owner is not in default in the payment of any amounts due to the contractor hereunder), and this indemnity will survive termination of this contract.

INSURANCE REQUIREMENTS

ABC Builders, LLC, will maintain builders’ risk insurance during the period of construction. The builder will also have a general liability policy in force with minimum blanket coverage of $1,000,000 or other higher amount as the job may dictate. All certificates of insurance coverage will be provided directly to the owner by the insurance carriers.

EARLY TERMINATION

If the contractor fails to comply with the terms of the contract, then the owner can issue a notification of intent to terminate the contract. The intent will outline the legitimate reasons for terminating the contract. The contractor needs to respond within 10 business days from receipt of the notification as to his intentions to correct the violations. The contractor will be given an additional 10 business days to correct the violations unless otherwise specified in writing. If the contractor is unwilling to remedy the situation within the allotted time frame, then the contract will be terminated. The contractor will be ordered to remove any tools and material and leave the site.

DISPUTES

If a dispute develops between the parties to this agreement, and it cannot be settled between them, the parties agree to submit to binding mediation to be conducted by and according to the rules and procedures of CDRS (Construction Dispute Resolution Services), LLC, of __________________________. The process will begin with standard mediation where the parties shall make every effort to resolve disputed items with the assistance and direction of the mediator(s). If the mediation efforts conclude without a total settlement resolution on all disputed items, a settlement agreement will be written to reflect the successfully resolved items, and signed by all parties. The mediator(s) shall then render a decision on any of the disputed items that could not be resolved by the clients during the mediation. If a settlement agreement exists, the decision(s) of the mediator(s) shall be written in a new settlement agreement and shall be signed by all parties. If no settlement agreement exists, a new settlement agreement shall be written that reflects the decision of the mediator(s) and shall be signed by all parties. Both settlement agreements shall be final and binding on the parties. If any of the parties fails to sign that settlement agreement, that settlement agreement shall be binding on the parties as a result of signing this binding mediation agreement. The parties acknowledge that the mediator(s) will be privy to certain personal, private, and confidential information that is volunteered by the parties during the mediation session. The decision(s) of the mediator(s) may be due in part to this information. The parties agree to pay CDRS, LLC, the binding mediation fees according to the most current Construction Dispute Resolution Services, LLC, fees and related costs schedule or according to any written agreement between the parties and CDRS or $ per/hour, plus applicable tax, which is due and payable at the conclusion of the binding mediation session. Unless a written agreement specifies the allocation of the filing fees, dispute resolution fees, and related costs, the parties shall share the cost of the binding mediation process equally, although personal attorneys and witnesses or professional experts and other specific expenses are the direct responsibility of each party.

THE TOTAL COST OF THE PROPOSAL IS $394,000.00

TERMS OF PAYMENT

Construction draw requests will be submitted in accordance with the lender’s draw schedule. All construction funds will be transferred into the builder’s job account.

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CHAPTER 7

SCHEDULING

Timely scheduling is the key to maintaining a smooth, orderly flow of work. The most difficult thing for the inexperienced person to get control over in making a schedule is lead time. Lead time is the amount of advance time necessary to order materials and subcontract labor in order to have them at your job on the date required. The most common mistake is not allowing enough lead time. Lead time can be affected by shortages of materials and subcontractors who are backed up with work. Experience will teach you how to plan for these situations. To make matters worse, your scheduling can also be affected by seasonal influences, such as holidays, deer hunting, and weather patterns. Your goal is to minimize down time, the time when no one is working on the job. Excessive downtime will greatly affect your overall construction schedule, which directly affects the amount of interest you are paying on the construction loan.

An experienced supervisor will have subcontractors overlap each other a day or two. Let me give you a personal example. When I’m framing in a home, I tell the carpenter to get the roof framing, including decking, completed as quickly as possible. He can finish some of the exterior work and interior completion work later. I get the roofing contractor or the carpenter, whichever is available, to install the underlayment on the roof decking as soon as possible. This starts to protect the home right away and provides a dry interior for other trades to come in and work. During this period of time, I get the fireplace insert or inserts installed. Next, I have the electrician come in and nail on all the outlet, switch, and light boxes. I also have him install all the recessed light canisters. At this point, he does not install any wiring. I do this for a couple of reasons. The first reason is it shows the other trades where the lighting is going to be so that they do not install an air-conditioning duct or plumbing line right in the way of where a light or a ceiling fan has to go. A lot of lighting plans call for the lighting to be in specific locations in the framing. The second reason I use this technique is so the customer has an opportunity to make sure the lighting, etc. is where it needs to be. It is easy to move a box now that does not have wire in it.

Once all the electrical boxes are nailed in, then I have the HVAC contractor install the furnace and ductwork for the rough-in process. I then bring in the plumber, which will overlap the HVAC contractor by at least one day. If they have any space issues, they can work it out between them. While the plumber is on the job doing his rough-in, he will connect the gas lines to the furnaces and fireplace inserts. Now, I have the electrician come back to complete his rough-in before the plumber is totally done. If those two have any issues, they can work it out between them. All the while the trades are in the home, the framing carpenter is still there completing his work. If any of the trades need to have some framing altered or added, the carpenter is there to do it. Do you see how timely scheduling can compress a lot of work into a short amount of time?

This was an example of a period of time when it was possible to have more than one trade in the house at the same time. It will not always be that way. There are times when one subcontractor has to have the whole house by himself until he is completed. Examples of this would be the drywall contractor, finish trim carpenter, and the painter. A lot of time will elapse off the clock just for those three trades. That does not mean you should not have contractors working on the outside at the same time. Good construction weather is a fleeting thing for outside work.

The next most difficult issue is how long it should take to perform each activity. The size of the home is the single-biggest influence on how long it takes. Until you gain more construction experience, I suggest, as you are interviewing each of your contractors, you ask them the following two questions.

The first question should be how much lead time do you need to get you scheduled for the job? The second question should be how long will it take you to complete your work once you start the job? This information needs to be factored into the schedule.

Keep this in mind as you are asking these questions; subcontractors are notorious for underestimating their work time. This is especially true if the job happens to be a category that will take over five working days. This includes such things as framing and sheetrock. You may have to add in more time, depending upon how they presented their answer.

I want you to keep two questions in mind, as you start discussing ordering and scheduling of material with the suppliers. The first question is how long it is going to take for them to receive a particular product you are going to need at their location? The second question is how soon will they be able to deliver that product to your job site? Special order merchandise may have to be ordered weeks or even months in advance. They will respect you for taking the time to ask these questions.

I have supplied you with a labeled construction schedule for you to fill in the dates. I recognize that you may have to alter some of the categories to fit your particular area of the country. I have also supplied you with a blank page, in case you need to make copies to create your own schedule. The dates that you fill in will be based on the answers you get from material suppliers and subcontractors. In spite of your very best efforts, there will be miss-fires in your scheduling. Do not get discouraged. It happens to all of us in homebuilding. Start contacting various suppliers for materials you are going to need and subcontractors to get their input for time factors while your blueprints are being drawn.

Finally, there are many scheduling software programs available online. My advice at this point of your experience level is to keep it simple. There is going to be plenty of time to get high-tech and sophisticated later. Try to keep your scheduling to no more than two months in advance.

The following pages are schedule forms you can use to help you have a better understanding of the sequence of scheduling activities. These are not cast in stone. Schedules will always be influenced by weather, material shortages, and holidays. Because of these factors, schedules may have to be rearranged.

Let’s discuss something of great importance. If you think that all you have to do is pick up the telephone and call a contractor one time to schedule them for your job, then I’m afraid you are suffering from too much expectation. You must call them and call them again to confirm their schedule. If necessary, you need to call them again. Remember, you are not dealing with highly educated people in most part. Many of them lack basic business ethics. This will frustrate you many times throughout the course of building your home. Suck it up-walk it off, but do whatever it takes to keep your schedule rolling.

I fired a plumber recently for not showing up to start his work after he had assured me that he would be there at a specific time. The problem was, that the job was 1 1/2 hours from my office and I was waiting for him for over an hour before I called him. He gave me the worn out excuse that he had truck problems. I asked him if that also affected his ability to make a phone call. If he would have called me before I went to the job site to tell me this sad story there would not have been a problem. I told him that I would get another plumber to do the job. You need to be fair to sub-contractors but you also need to command their respect. Don’t let them walk all over you. It won’t stop.

Take full advantage of what scheduling opportunities are afforded you. There should be someone working on the job every day, whether it is inside, outside, or both.

In the Chapter 8 which is supervision, I am going to be giving you helpful scheduling alerts and ordering alerts for each category. Tight scheduling is the sign of a good supervisor. Let’s see if you have what it takes.

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CHAPTER 8

SUPERVISION

Welcome to the grand poobah of all the chapters. This is the big one, the one that can make or break the job. I guess it is only fitting that this chapter is the number eight, because if you do not have your head screwed on tight as it pertains to supervision, then you are going to be behind the eight ball.

Supervision is the single most important part of successful homebuilding. You can have the most comprehensive set of building plans and specifications in the world, but without competent supervision, they may as well be toilet paper. The builder is the executor of the construction documents. The builder has the responsibility to make sure that there’s competent supervision at the job site daily in order to determine two main things. “What are the two main skills a good supervisor must possess?” This is the question I ask my classroom students. Let me share with you some of the answers I get. “The supervisor must dress neatly.” “He must drive a decent-looking vehicle.” “He needs to get along well with the customers.” Under those guidelines, a good supervisor would be wearing starched uniforms, drive a new truck, and be Mr. Congeniality. Unfortunately, all the answers are wrong. He could possess all of those attributes and still be incompetent.

Don’t get me wrong, those peripheral things are icing on the cake, but they are not essential.

There are two, and only two, professional skills the best supervisors must possess.

The first one is the ability to scrutinize every phase of work that is being done and know if the job is being done right—the term right as defined by the governing building codes, Residential Construction Performance Guidelines, and working knowledge of each trade. You must be able to recognize proper workmanship. If the supervisor has to depend on the subcontractors to tell him that the job is right, then you have the wrong supervisor. The supervisor must be able to detect quickly if the work is being done wrong in order to make corrections. Those corrections may involve firing the subcontractor and hiring someone else to finish the job.

The second one is the ability to know if each phase of work is complete. You do not want to get into a situation where payments are authorized to contractors who have not finished the job. How certain can you be that they will return in a timely manner to complete the work? For all you know, they could go out and get involved in a serious accident and not be able to finish. Get the point? You can have the best subcontractors working for you, but they still need proper supervision. You simply cannot put supervision on autopilot and expect the result to be good, but that is exactly what a lot of builders do.

Subcontractors simply will not police themselves. If they did, you would not need a supervisor. The homebuilding industry is plagued with what I call “windshield superintendents.” These are the ones who drive by the job site, looking through the windshield to see if anybody’s working on the job. Then they drive on to the next one. Even when they do get out of their trucks, they really do not know what they are looking at, anyway. Of course, they have picked up a mental list of superficial tidbits of information along the way. When it gets right down to the art of supervising and being able to tell immediately if something is right or wrong and explain why, they just can’t do it.

I’m going to mention something to you that will blow your mind. There are some builders who do not want their supervisors knowing too much. They want the supervisors to know just enough to stay in sync with their building program. That program is to get to the completion as fast as possible with minimal delays and interruptions. The last thing they need is a supervisor who is educated about newer and better techniques or materials than what the builder employs.

When this happens, the supervisor has to go, and it’s time to bring someone else in whose mind has not been corrupted with the same nonsense. And the cycle continues.

Below are a few interesting questions I am frequently asked:

“If I’m acting in the capacity of the builder, do I still have to supervise the job myself?”

The answer is simply this: When you accept the role of being the builder, you accept all responsibility for the outcome of the job. You become the on-site supervisor and need to possess the two fundamental skills I mentioned earlier. If you do not have the ability to supervise, negotiate subcontractor deals, or stand nose to nose with them during a dispute, you better hire a good supervisor to do those things for you. If you are inclined to be an easygoing person who avoids disputes and would rather back down from a subcontractor than confront them, then I’m afraid you are in for some bad experiences. You better get prepared.

“Who is responsible if one of my subcontractors makes a mistake that causes additional costs in order to make the correction?”

If you do not catch the error before you pay him, the answer is you. If you are only building your home and no other, then you don’t have any leverage on a subcontractor other than the check you have not given him yet. He has no allegiance to you because you will not be doing any more business with him. Do you see how the game is played? I’m not suggesting for a moment all subcontractors are like this, but you need to be prepared. You probably will not have this problem if you found the subcontractors in the manner I suggested earlier.

Here is one little technique that I would use to help you determine if there’s a good crew working on your house: As you are approaching the job, let your eye take a mental snapshot of the activity that you see in a split second. Now play that image back in your mind. What did you see? If you saw that everybody on the crew was working, you probably have a good crew. If you saw a couple of people working and a couple of others standing around not doing anything, then you better keep an eye on them as time goes on. Maybe they are going to need an attitude adjustment. Use this technique on any of the trades. You will find that it works.

“What literature should I have available for supervising?”

In The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding we use the International Residential Code (IRC) 2009 and 2012 editions as the main reference source. You can obtain this book as a soft cover or PDF download. There are a few other books I would like you to have that are more user friendly as a tool in supervision.

They are:

The Building Code Compliance for Contractors & Inspectors-The book is based on the IRC 2009 and the author is Lynn Underwood

“What kind of tools do I need for supervising?”

You will need a camera that takes good, clear pictures; a 25 to 30-foot tape measure; a couple of 200-foot tape measures; a 2-foot, 4-foot, and 6-foot level; a builder’s level (laser type); binoculars; a strong, bright flashlight; marking paint; permanent markers; and a construction calculator. We’ll assume that the permitting is in order and all pre-construction activities have been successfully completed.

At the beginning of each major activity, you are provided with a glossary of terms. Familiarize yourself with the terminology first before moving on. I don’t need you to memorize these terms; the operative word is familiarize. Many of the terms will be illustrated so you can relate the term, location, and function together. Refer to the glossary for a refresher of any terms you need to remember. It is important that you cross-reference these items in order to understand the supervision checklists that come at the end of each activity.

Let’s briefly review how you got to this point.

You started out learning about budgets, credit reports, appraisals, loans, and land issues.

Then you moved into building plans, design issues, and future consideration. You saw pictures of different style homes that maybe gave you some ideas of your own Next up, I gave you descriptions and explanations of every major activity that will take place in your home. This information provided you with important background knowledge Then came specifications and you learned how important it was to define the details of construction.

You needed to know how much things costs, so we showed you how to create a budget. Now you should have a very good idea of how much things cost and how to pay people.

You needed to know about contracts, and learn you did. You learned how to find subcontractors and how to interview them.

Scheduling enlightened you about lead time, which things come first, second, third, etc. You learned that the better you schedule, the more time and money you save.

Now we are at a major point in your project. Your success or failure of building your home, hangs in the balance over your ability to supervise the job. Not only is this the longest chapter, but it is the most important one. All the wealth of knowledge you acquired up to this point will be put to the test.

In this chapter, I’m going to walk you through supervision techniques from the foundation to completion. Buckle up; this is going to be a long, bumpy ride. If you do not feel the need to read all the material, then maybe you better let someone else do the job for you. This is real-world construction with real-world experiences. Do you have what it takes to see it through? My instincts tell me you do, but you need to stay focused.

We are going to begin our discussions of supervision starting with category #1. You should have already familiarized yourself with all the categories in “Chapter 3: Descriptions and Explanations.”

During the course of supervision, you are always given opportunities to catch problems at an early stage. The best supervisors detect problems early. The more time that elapses with problems undetected and unresolved; the harder and more expensive it becomes to correct them. Sooner or later, these problems will scream out at you and you’ll stumble into them in spite of yourself. By that time it’s too late. Some of the issues may never be resolved to the satisfaction of the owner. Some of them will cost countless hundreds or thousands of dollars to correct, but the real loss will be your customer’s faith and good will.

I want you experienced builders and supervisors to keep this thought in mind as you move forward.

All of the following scheduling and ordering information is based on a 3,000 square foot custom home.

It may be necessary to adjust your schedules according to the size and other influencing factors.

In this chapter, you are given SCHEDULING and ORDERING alerts. These are designed to let you know when activities should be scheduled and when material needs to be ordered. The alerts are inserted in the chapter at strategic locations that correspond with the construction timeline.

There will also be comments as to when the activity should begin, approximately how long it should take and when the material should be on the job. All you need to do is to plug in the dates after you have coordinated the scheduling with the contractors and suppliers.

The alerts are color coded so they’ll stand out. If you can’t see this pretty passion pink, it’s your own fault if you miss one. This will force you to read every page in order not to miss any of the alerts. You may have to tweak the order of activities to best conform with your area of the country or individual construction program.

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*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule the site evaluation when you know for certain that you are ready to start the process.

1-SITE EVALUATION

Supervision checklist for site evaluation:

*Could it be determined where the utilities should be located? This could have an impact on the positioning of the home and the budget for the installation of the utilities.

*Could it be determined if you will have to bring in site fill material? That certainly could have a bearing on the budget.

*Could you determine if the property sheds water sufficiently or will it hold water? This could have an impact as to whether or not site fill material will have to be brought in and how much. In the final analysis, you want the water to drain away from your home on all sides.

*Could you determine if there were going to be any access, storage, or parking issues? Any combination of these logistical issues could increase the construction time.

*Were you able to make any judgments as to how many trees would have to be removed? This could have an impact in that budget.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule the survey to be done as soon as the house plans are underway being drawn or when you order your plans by mail. The survey will take 1 day for the field work and another week or so to get the actual drawing.

2-SURVEY

Supervision checklist for survey:

*Could you make any judgment as to whether or not there might be any encroachment issues? It would be nice to know if all the proposed construction will fit on the property.

*Are you going to need a topographical survey as a requirement for the building permit?

*Can the surveyor establish any issues with a flood hazard or flood plain area? This could have a bearing on the budget as it relates to site fill and type of foundation.

*Are there any utility easements or building line setback requirements that may affect the location of the home?

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule the soil test after you have staked out where the foundation is going to be located. A minimum of two borings will be performed in the foundation footprint (Ref page 55 item #3) for suggested boring locations. The actual borings will only take a couple of hours to complete but the written report will take another week or so to obtain.

3-SOIL TESTING

Supervision checklist for soil testing:

*Were the borings drilled in the bearing location of the foundation? You are taking unnecessary chances by having core samples of soils from any other area other than the foot print of the foundation. I know this one first hand.

*Were the number of borings drilled as per the order?

*Were the borings made to the required depth?

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

The plans should start being designed after the site evaluation is completed and you have any information available as it pertains to flood elevation criteria. This process will take on average 3 to 6 months to complete. The plans could be ordered by mail but I caution you when doing that. (Ref page 49 item #4) for those concerns.

4-BLUEPRINTS AND FOUNDATION DESIGN

Supervision checklist for blueprints and foundation design:

*Are you satisfied that the blueprints meet all of your criteria?

*Do have enough sets of plans in order to secure bids? You need to have at least 12 complete sets of plans.

*Does the engineer have all the pertinent information that he needs to make a proper foundation design?

*Are any engineer seals required for framing as it pertains to wind loads? This will have an impact on the framing design.

*Are you going to need any other documentation relevant to the building permit such as plumbing and gas riser diagrams, manual J load analysis, electrical load analysis, REScheck certification, topographical survey, or any other requirements that potentially could slow down the permitting process?

*Did the engineer seal at least six sets of foundation plans?

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Building permits can be applied for after all required documentation is gathered (Ref page 55 item #5). Do keep in mind that getting all the documentation can be a very lengthy process. Never underestimate this timing. This will take on average between 5 to 30 days. Do not begin work until permit is issued.

2. Schedule the tree removal contractor. The contractor needs to know which trees are being removed and which ones stay. (Ref page 59 item #6). This will take on average 3 to 5 days to complete.

5-BUILDING PERMITS

Supervision checklist for building permits:

*Have all the building permits been obtained?

*Are the permits and address posted at the jobsite?

*Have any required builders’ bonds been obtained?

*Are all insurance policies in force? Builder’s risk and General Liability are the main ones

6-TREE REMOVAL AND SITE CLEARING

Supervision checklist for tree removal and site clearing:

*Are there enough lumber grade trees that would make it worthwhile to try and sell them? In most subdivision lot situations, this won’t be the case. If you are clearing acreage, then it’s probably worth looking into.

*Have the trees that are being saved been protected from root damage caused by heavy equipment? You’ll probably have to place some barrier fencing around these particular trees. The barrier should be installed around the perimeter drip line of the tree.

*Are you sure that all relevant trees have been removed? Remember, one operation only. Bringing the contractor back a second time to remove more trees can get very expensive.

*Can the trees be burned on site or will they have to be hauled off? This will depend on local ordinances, or whether a burn ban is in effect because of fire danger. Either way, this can have a significant impact on this budget.

*Has the contractor completed the work as was agreed to? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Schedule the contractor for site fill, rough grading, access road, and/or culvert if any of these activities pertain to your project, as soon as tree removal and site clearing are complete.

2. Schedule the temporary toilet facilities for delivery when site grading work begins.

*ORDERING ALERT*

If you are responsible for ordering any road base material, culvert and setting material, do it now. Coordinate the delivery date with the contractor. The contractor could help you with the quantity of materials required. (Ref page 59 item #7 & 8) (Ref page 60 item #9)

7-SITE FILL AND ROUGH GRADING

Supervision checklist for site fill and grading:

*Have you checked to make sure you have proper water drainage? You must make sure that the site is at the proper elevation. This is especially important if the building site was in the 100-or 500-year floodplain. Even if that is not an issue, you still do not want to be lower than your adjoining neighbors.

*Has any required fill and grading work been completed as to be in compliance with any elevation issues? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULIING ALERT*

1. Contact the electrician and schedule the temporary power pole installation as soon as site work is completed. 1 day operation. There is additional time required to have the power company inspect the installation and energize the T-pole. (Ref page 60 item #11)

2. Schedule the water well contractor if applicable, to drill the well. Install after site work is complete. This will take on average 2 to 5 days to complete depending on depth of well and other influencing factors. The pump can be energized from the T-pole. (Ref page 61 item #12)

3. Schedule the installation of the water meter if applicable to your project. (Ref page 30) This will be a 1 day installation. Don’t forget, you want a minimum of a 1-inch diameter meter. This can be done now. One type of installation or another, you’re going to need construction water sooner rather than later.

8-ACCESS ROAD

Supervision checklist for the access road:

*Has the access road been properly constructed to withstand weather and heavy equipment? We discussed in Chapter 3, the importance of doing this correctly. This process will involve bulldozing unsuitable material out of the way. It will involve bringing in suitable base clay that can be compacted and the placement of good road base aggregate, such as crushed limestone or granite. I’m afraid that anything less than this will result in a road that will not hold up for the long haul. Remember, that the access road will become the base for your future permanent driveway material.

*Has the contractor constructed the road as per your specifications? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Schedule the preliminary site layout work as soon as all site work is complete. (Ref page 60 item #10)

2. Schedule the basement excavation contractor if applicable as soon as all site work is complete. . This work will take 2 to 4 days to complete depending on size and depth of excavation and other mitigating circumstances. Formulate a plan as to what the excavated soils can be used for. (Ref page 62 item #14)

3. Schedule the shallow foundation (pad) dirt work contractor to start as soon as all site work is complete. This work will take 2 to 4 days to complete depending on size and depth of pad. Allow additional time for pad compaction inspections. (Ref page 63 item #15)

*ORDERING ALERT*

If you are responsible for ordering the foundation underfill material, do it now. Coordinate the delivery date with the contractor. The contractor can probably help you determine the quantity of fill material required. (Ref page 63 item “foundation underfill”)

9-CULVERT INSTALLATION

Supervision checklist for culvert installation:

*Has the culvert been installed per any governing authority? These requirements could include setting the culvert in suitable clay or stabilized sand. It certainly will include setting the culvert at the unsilted flow line elevation as we discussed in Chapter 3. The final phase of the installation should include the placement of bullrock or other suitable large aggregate from the edge of the street into the property approximately 50 feet. This helps to prevent vehicles from tracking mud onto the street as they depart.

10-PRELIMINARY SITE LAYOUT

Supervision checklist for preliminary site layout:

*Are all proposed structures fitting on the site as planned? The considerations should include front, side, and rear building line setbacks, utility easements, and tree clearances. You cannot move forward until all requirements have been satisfied.

At this point, the site should be ready to build on. The pre-construction categories are very important and should not be thought of as inconsequential. If executed properly, the pre-construction activities will reward you later with time saved. If they were not done right…Well, I will let you figure it out.

Now we will turn our attention to the actual construction activities. As before, do not take anything for granted, and do not take any shortcuts. All details, no matter how insignificant they appear, are important to your goal of building a good home.

STAY FOCUSED, ROLL UP YOUR SLEEVES, AND LETS GET TO WORK.

11-TEMPORARY POWER

Supervision checklist for temporary power pole installation:

*Has the T-pole been located to minimize the cutting of tree limbs?

*Has the T-pole been located where any overhead lines will not become an obstacle to construction traffic? Remember, you’re going to have tall vehicles such as the concrete pumper truck, concrete truck, and lumber truck that will need ready access.

*Does the T-pole have enough power in the panel to be able to run construction equipment? You may also need to power a water well pump for construction water. The pump will need 220 volt power available.

*Is the T-pole located where it will not be in standing water if it rains? Standing in water while resetting a breaker or plugging in electrical tools is not really a great idea.

12-WATER WELL

GLOSSARY OF WATER WELL TERMS

Aquiclude: A formation which is capable of absorbing water, but will not transmit it fast enough to furnish enough for a well or water supply

Aquifer: A formation or group of formations that contain adequate saturated permeable material to yield significant quantities of water to wells

Area of Influence: The area which ground water or pressure surface contours are modified by pumping

Artesian Confined Aquifer: Water confined by a layer of overlapping impermeable formation such as rock or slate so that the water is under pressure greater than atmospheric pressure (The water level in an artesian well stands above the top of the artesian water body it taps.)

Artesian Well: A well that tapped a confined or artesian aquifer in which the static water level stands above the water table (The term artesian well is sometimes used to include all wells tapping a confined body of water.)

Bed: A layer of sedimentary rock

Bridge: An obstruction to circulation in drilling operation

Casing Shoe: A heavy-walled steel coupling or band at the lower extremity of the casing

Capillary Fringe: The zone immediately above the water table in which most of the interstices are filled with water that is under less atmospheric pressure (The water is held above the water table by surface tension.)

Cementing: The process of placing cement to provider a seal against subsurface waters

Centrifugal Well Pumps: Centrifugal pumps that contain a rotating impeller mounted on a shaft turned by a power source such as an electric motor, gasoline, or diesel engine (The rotating impellor or impellors creates the velocity of water which is discharged into the housing, and converts the velocity into pressure.)

Climatic Cycle: Periodic fluctuations of climate, including a series of dry years and a series of years with heavy rainfall

Cone of Depression: As water is pumped from the well, a portion of the water in the aquifer around the well is drained forming a cone shape centered on the well (The steepness of this cone of depression is dependent on the formation surrounding the well.) (Coarse formations such as gravel will produce a shallower cone than fine sand and clay.)

Confined Ground Water: A body of ground water overlain by impervious material such as rock or slate

Confining Layer: A layer of overlapping impermeable formation such as rock or slate (Water contained underneath is under greater pressure than atmospheric pressure.)

Die Overshot: A long tapered die of heat treated steel designed to fit over the top of lost drill pipe and cut threads when rotated

Draw-down: The lowering of the water level within the well caused by pumping (It is measured for a given quantity of water pumped during a specific period.)

Driller: The man in charge of the rig and crew and who handles the drilling controls

Effective Velocity: The actual velocity of ground water percolating through water-bearing material. It is measured by volume of ground water passing through a unit cross-sectional area

Field Capacity: The capacity of the soil to hold pellicular water, measured by the soil scientist as the ratio of weight of water retained by the soil to the weight of dry soil

Fixed Ground Water: Water held in saturated material that moves so slowly that it is not available as a source of water for pumping

Ground Water: A part of rainfall that eventually finds its way to a level where all of the earth’s voids and openings are filled with water. This area is known as the zone of saturation. Water in the zone of saturation is known as ground water

Ground Water Hydrology: The branch of the science of hydrology concerned with the occurrence, distribution, and movement of water below the surface of the earth

Hardness: Calcium and magnesium salts, present in most natural waters causing the water to be hard. Natural waters will vary in hardness depending on location

Hard Formation Rock Bits: A bit which has short teeth, and milled with a large included angle to resist breakage

Hydrograph: A graphic plot of changes in flow of water or in elevation of water against time

Hydrophilic: A substance that absorbs water

Hydrophobic: A substance which repels water

Igneous Rock: Rock made from the solidification of molten mater that originated within the earth

Juvenile Water: New water of magmatic, volcanic or cosmic origin added to the terrestrial water supply

Magma: Molten rock-matter together with its devolved gas or vapor

Meteoric water: Water derived from the atmosphere

Native Clay: Consists of mostly illite and kaolinite, although calcium bentonite and other clay minerals may be present. Usually a fine sand and silt are associated with clay

Perched Ground Water: Ground water in a saturated zone that is separated from the main body of ground water by unsaturated rock

Precipitation: The process that atmospheric moisture falls to the surface as snow, rain and other forms of moisture

Permeability: The capacity of water-bearing material to transmit water measured by the quantity of water passing through a unit cross section in a unit of time

PH: A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of water

Phosphate: In many natural waters, phosphate occurs in trace amounts

Porosity: The property of rock or soil containing interstices or voids for fluid transmission

Pressure Surface: The surface that confined water will rise in a non-pumping well which pierces a common conduit and the water levels of which are not affected by a pumping well

Pressure-surface Map: A map showing the contours (isopiestic lines) of the pressure surface of a confined water system

Pumping Level: The level of the water within the well while the well is Pumping

Pump Testing: Methods that are used to determine the well yield (These tests determine the well yield by measuring the amount of water that is drawn down between the static level (when the pump is at rest) and the pumping level (when the pump is pumping.)

Recovery Time: Is the amount of time that it takes the aquifer to recover to its static level after pumping has stopped

Rejuvenated Water: Water returned to the terrestrial water supply by geologic process of compaction and metamorphism

Rolling Cutter Bits: A drill bit commonly called cone bits (Provides a wide range of capability for drilling harder formations.)

Round Trip: Withdrawing all of the drilling shaft and bit from the bottom of the hole and returning it back to the bottom of the hole

Soda Ash (Washing soda, Sodium Carbonate): Used to remove hardness from water by precipitating calcium and magnesium salts, in order to raise the pH of acidic waters

Soft Formation Rock Bits: A drill bit having widely set teeth, and cut deeply, so that large cuttings are dislodged at a fast rate

Specific Absorption: The capacity of water bearing material to absorb water after all gravity water has been removed (It is the ratio of the volume of water absorbed by the volume of material saturated.)

Specific Capacity: Is the rate of discharge of water from the well divided by the draw-down of water level within the well (It varies with the duration of discharge.) (If the specific capacity is constant except for the time variation, it is roughly proportional to the transmissivity of the aquifer.) (The relation between the discharge and draw-down is affected by the construction of the well, the character of the screen or casing perforation and the velocity and length of flow up the casing.)

Spring: A concentrated discharge of ground water issuing at the surface as a current of flowing water

Standing Level: The water level in a non-pumping well (The term is used without regard to whether the well is within or outside the area of influence of other pumping wells.)

Starting Pressure: The distance in feet from the static water level to the bottom of the air line or foot piece, multiplied by 0.434 = p.s.i. at pump level

Static Level: The water level in a non-pumping well outside the area of influence of any pumping well

Submersible Pumps: The pump within the well that is directly coupled to an electric motor, and is constructed to be water tight for submersion within the well (The pump is supported and attached to the discharge pipe.)

Surface Runoff: The runoff of precipitation, which flows to streams over the surface of the ground

Tool Pusher: The foreman in charge of the drill rig and drilling crew

Transpiration: The discharge of water vapor by plants

Volcanic Water: Juvenile water from lava flows and volcanic centers

Water Table: The surface in an unconfined water body at which the pressure is atmospheric (It is defined by the level at which water stands in wells that are not pumping.)

Water Table Well System: A water table well drilled deep enough, so as to penetrate ground water that has accumulated below the surface from rainwater that has percolated below (Ground water is an excellent source of water, as it has been filtered by natural formations.)

Well Log: Is a record of the hydraulic characteristics of the well (The well log can be a helpful reference in diagnosing future problems with the well.) (The well log should be furnished upon construction completion of the well.)

Well Pumps: Pumps that are used to deliver water in usable, safe pressure to the water system (There are two types of pumps, centrifugal and submersible, used in well water systems.)

Wild Well: A well flowing out of control

Zone of Aeration: The zone above the water table in which the interstices (voids) are filled with air

Zone of Saturation: The zone below the water table in which all interstices (voids) are filled with water

Supervision checklist for well drilling:

*Is the well being drilled to bear in the best drinking water?

*Has the well been located away from trees? Remember, trees can be small today and become a real obstacle in a few years.

*Has the well been located far enough away from an adjoining neighbor’s septic influence? The well should be a minimum of 100 feet away from the edge of the septic spray or field.

*Is the well located in an area that is readily accessible for service in any type of weather? If the well pump goes out and the service rig cannot get to the wellhead, you are in for a real inconvenience.

*Is the pump of sufficient size to be able to handle your current and future requirements? You may decide later to install an irrigation system that may have high volume spray heads.

*Has the casing been sealed with a concrete slurry? This is done in order to eliminate ground water contamination.

*Has the water obtained been tested for hardness and/or contaminants? This can have a bearing on the type of water-conditioning system you may have to buy.

*Did the well driller clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

Special Note-The well driller will have to come back after the framing is complete in order to set the tank inside the garage if that is you preferred location. If the tank is going to be installed near the well head, then this won’t be an issue. The plumber can then plumb it in while he is there doing the rough-in plumbing.

13-CONSTRUCTION WATER

The construction water and a hose bib should already be installed as per our previous schedule alert. You are going to need construction water for the remainder of the job.

14-BASEMENT EXCAVATION

The key to excavating for a basement foundation is to determine how much earth to remove. You have to determine the grade in advance in order that the top of the completed foundation will be in the correct relationship with the future finish grade. This is definitely part of supervision. Become familiar with the excavation terms.

GLOSSARY OF EXCAVATION TERMS

Actual slope: the slope to which an excavation face is excavated

Adjacent structure stability: refers to the stability of the foundation(s) of adjacent structures whose location may create surcharges, changes in soil conditions, or other disruptions that have the potential to extend into the failure zone of the excavation or trench

Benching: a method of protecting workers from cave-ins by excavating the sides of an excavation to form one or a series of horizontal levels or steps, usually with vertical or near-vertical surfaces between levels

Cave-in: the separation of a mass of soil or rock material from the side of an excavation, or the loss of soil from under a trench shield or support system, and its sudden movement into the excavation, either by falling or sliding, insufficient quantity so that it could entrap, bury, or otherwise injure and immobilize a person

Cemented soil: a soil in which the particles are held together by a chemical agent, such as calcium carbonate, such that a hand-size sample cannot be crushed into powder or individual soil particles by finger pressure

Cohesive soil: clay (fine-grained soil), or soil with a high clay content, that has cohesive strength (Cohesive soil does not crumble, can be excavated with vertical side slopes, and is plastic when moist. Cohesive soil is hard to break up when dry and exhibits significant cohesion when submerged. Cohesive soils include clayey silt, sandy clay, silty clay, clay, and organic clay.)

Distress: a condition of the soil where a cave-in is imminent or likely to occur (Distress is evidenced by such phenomena as the development of fissures in the face or adjacent to an open excavation; the subsidence of the edge of an excavation; the slumping of material from the face or the bulging or heaving of material from the bottom of an excavation; the spalling of material from the face of an excavation; and raveling, i.e., small amounts of material such as pebbles or little clumps of material suddenly separating from the face of an excavation and trickling or rolling down into the excavation.)

Dry soil: applies to soil that does not exhibit visible signs of moisture content

Excavation: any man-made cut, cavity, trench, or depression in the Earth’s surface, formed by earth removal

Faces or sides: the vertical or inclined earth surfaces formed as a result of excavation work

Failure: the breakage, displacement, or permanent deformation of a structural member or connection so as to reduce its structural integrity and its supportive capabilities

Fissured: a soil material that has a tendency to break along definite planes of fracture with little resistance, or a material that exhibits open cracks, such as tension cracks, in an exposed surface

Granular soil: gravel, sand, or silt (coarse-grained soil) with little or no clay content. (Granular soil has no cohesive strength. Some moist granular soils exhibit apparent cohesion. Granular soil cannot be molded when moist and crumbles easily when dry.)

Ingress and egress: entry and exit, respectively (In trenching and excavation operations, they refer to the provision of safe means for workers to enter or exit an excavation or trench.)

Layered system: two or more distinctly different soil or rock types arranged in layers (Micaceous seams or weakened planes in rock or shale are considered layered.)

Maximum allowable slope: the steepest incline of an excavation face that is acceptable for the most favorable site conditions as protection against cave-ins and is expressed as the ratio of horizontal distance to vertical rise (h:v)

Moist soil: a condition in which a soil looks and feels damp (Moist cohesive soil can easily be shaped into a ball and rolled into small-diameter threads before crumbling. Moist granular soil that contains some cohesive material will exhibit signs of cohesion between particles.)

Penetrometer: the pocket penetrometer that directly reads the unconfined compressive strength of a soil in tons per square foot

Plasticity: a property of a soil that allows the soil to be deformed or molded without cracking or appreciable volume change

Protective system: a method of protecting employees from cave-ins, from material that could fall or roll from an excavation face or into an excavation, and from the collapse of adjacent structures (Protective systems include support systems, sloping and benching systems, shield systems, and other systems that provide the necessary protection.)

Qualitative soil analysis: relating to or involving comparisons of soil based on qualities such as particle size, the tendency to clump together, tension cracks and fissures, existing nearby utilities, layered geography, sources of water, and vibration

Quantitative soil analysis: tests that can be performed to soil that yield a measurable outcome (For example, measuring the diameter of a rolled thread of soil or reading the values off a pocket penetrometer.)

Saturated soil: a soil in which the voids are filled with water (Saturation does not require flow. Saturation, or near saturation, is necessary for the proper use of instruments such as a pocket penetrometer or sheer vane.)

Shield: a structure that is able to withstand the forces imposed on it by a cave-in, and thereby protecting workers within the structure (Shields can be permanent structures or can be designed to be portable and moved along as work progresses. Additionally, shields can be either pre-manufactured or job-built. Shields used in trenches are usually referred to as “trench boxes” or “trench shields.”)

Shoring: a structure such as a metal hydraulic, mechanical or timber shoring system that supports the sides of an excavation and that is designed to prevent cave-ins

Short-term exposure: a period of time less than or equal to 24 hours that an excavation is open

Sloping: a method of protecting workers from cave-ins by excavating to form sides of an excavation that are inclined away from the excavation to prevent cave-ins (The angle of incline required to prevent a cave-in varies with differences in such factors as the soil type, environmental conditions of exposure, and application of surcharge loads.)

Soil classification system: a method of categorizing soil and rock deposits in a hierarchy of stable rock— type A, type B, and type C—in decreasing order of stability (The categories are determined based on an analysis of the properties and performance characteristics of the deposits and the characteristics of the deposits and the environmental conditions of exposure.)

Spoils: soil that has been excavated and/or drilled at a site

Stable rock: natural, solid mineral material that can be excavated with vertical sides and will remain intact while exposed (Unstable rock is considered to be stable when the rock material on the side or sides of the excavation is secured against caving in or movement by rock bolts or by another protective system that has been designed by a registered professional engineer.)

Submerged soil: soil that is underwater or is free seeping

Support system: structures such as underpinning, bracing, and shoring that provide support to an adjacent structure or underground installation or to the sides of an excavation or trench

Surcharge: an excessive vertical load or weight caused by spoil, overburden, vehicles, equipment, or activities that may affect trench stability

Surface encumbrance: anything that creates a hazardous surcharge load on the sides of an open-cut trench or excavation and could cause it to cave in or a protective system to fail

Trench (trench excavation): a narrow excavation (in relation to its length) made below the surface of the ground

Unconfined compressive strength: the load per unit area at which soil will fail in compression (This measure can be determined by laboratory testing, or it can be estimated in the field using a pocket penetrometer, by thumb penetration tests, or by other methods.)

Underground installations: includes, but are not limited to, utilities (sewer, telephone, fuel, electric, water, and other product lines), tunnels, shafts, vaults, foundations, and other underground fixtures or equipment that may be encountered during excavation or trenching work

Wet soil: soil that contains significantly more moisture than moist soil, but in such a range of values that cohesive material will slump or begin to flow when vibrated (Granular material that would exhibit cohesive properties when moist loses those cohesive properties when wet.)

Supervision checklist for basement excavation:

*Has the excavation work been scheduled during a stable period of weather?

*Has it been established that the proposed excavation is in the right location?

*Have benchmarks been established to set grade?

*Is the excavation of the proper size and depth?

*Where will the excavated soil be stored? If the lot is too small for storage, then all the spoils may have to be hauled off the jobsite.

*What will the excavated spoils be used for? Maybe the spoils can be used for backfill material. Maybe all they can be used for is site grading. These decisions have to be determined quickly.

*Based on information in the glossary of terms, are there any conditions that you believe may be potentially dangerous?

Figure 285-Basement excavation with a track excavator

Figure 286-Diagram of excavated area for basement foundation

15-SHALLOW FOUNDATION DIRT WORK (PAD)

SITE GRADING

GLOSSARY OF SITE-GRADING TERMS

Benchmark: a reference point that is established at the site (Benchmarks can be used for establishing the height of foundation forms.)

Builder’s level: an optical instrument used to establish or check points in the same horizontal plane (It is used in surveying and building to transfer, measure, or set horizontal levels.)

Bulldozer: a crawler (continuous tracked tractor) equipped with a blade used to push large quantities of soil, sand, rubble, etc., during construction

Compaction: the process of compressing soils in which a stress applied to the soil causes air to be displaced from the pores between the soil grains (Normally, compaction is the result of heavy machinery compressing the soil. Proper compaction is essential in stabilizing the foundation.)

Flood elevation: the computed elevation to which floodwater is anticipated to rise during the base flood (Base flood elevations, or BFEs, are shown on flood insurance rate maps, or FIRMs, and on the flood profiles. The BFE is the regulatory requirement for the elevation or flood proofing of structures. The relationship between the BFE and a structure’s elevation determines the flood insurance premium.)

Flood elevation certificate: a document generated by an engineer, surveyor, or qualified person that will provide data to help properly rate properties for flood insurance (An elevation certificate can determine precisely where your home is located in relationship to the BFE. You may want to obtain a flood certificate if your property is in a flood zone and you are considering disputing it.)

Front-end loader: a loader having a shovel or bucket at the end of an articulated arm located at the front of the vehicle.

Grade stakes: stakes that are set as a reference marker to establish the height of the foundation site

Grading: the process of reshaping the contour and elevation of the building site (The objective is to establish a level surface in order to construct the foundation. This work is done in conjunction with grade stakes.)

Grubbing: one of the processes in site clearing for removing roots, stumps, and other organic material from the site

Layout work: the beginning process of establishing the location of the foundation

Loose lifts: part of the process of soil compaction (Loose dirt is raised to a layer of approximately eight inches. Then this layer of loose soil is compacted by a sheepsfoot or roller before adding another layer of loose soil.)

Proctor test: a test as outlined by the ASTM (American Society of Testing Materials) to establish the compressed density of soils (When compacting soils, the goal is to compress the soil to as close as 100% as possible. The recommended compression percentage for foundation construction is 95% using the Proctor test.)

Proofrolling: a technique by which heavy pneumatic-tired vehicles drive across a newly excavated foundation area (The tires cover the entire area looking for soft spots that could cause future foundation settlement issues. This can develop when large tree root balls have been excavated, leaving behind a hole that may have been filled in with loose soil.)

Scarifying: a process that involves raking the foundation area with a bulldozer equipped with front-end teeth (In foundation construction, it drags the teeth across the surface, ripping up concealed roots, etc.)

Select underfill: special soils that have met the specifications for proper PI (plasticity index) and are used for developing a suitable pad for the bearing of a foundation

Sheepsfoot: a heavy piece of construction equipment that has a steel drum attached with knob-headed spikes (This equipment is used to compact soil for the construction of foundations.)

Skid-steer: an engine-powered loader with a small, rigid frame and lift arms used to attach a wide variety of labor-saving tools or attachments (Though sometimes they are equipped with tracks, skid-steer loaders are typically four-wheel-drive vehicles. They can be used for a multitude of job site work.)

The site grading operation is important because it has to resolve a number of issues dealing with floodplain elevation, surface water drainage, and foundation soil development.

Supervision checklist for shallow foundation dirt work (pad):

*Has the foundation layout been checked to make sure it will not encroach into easements or building lines? This has an impact on the location of the foundation pad site. This may not be an issue on a large lot or acreage, but I can assure you, it will be on a narrow lot.

*Have accurate benchmarks been established to ensure proper grade?

*Have all the potential issues of flood elevation been addressed as it pertains to the required height of the foundation?

*Is the site where the foundation is going to be placed graded high enough to ensure good water drainage away from the foundation? For example, you could be in compliance with flood elevation requirements, but your adjoining neighbors could both be higher than you. That would cause water to hold on your site. Your grade must be raised high enough to compensate for that. Ideally, the grade must be set high enough to shed surface water to the property lines.

*Is the top of the foundation grade level? The contractor will need to use a builder’s level to ensure an accurate grade.

*If you are constructing a concrete-slab foundation, has the pad been constructed and compacted in accordance with the soil test report and structural engineer requirements?

*Are any compaction tests scheduled to be taken? They should be if they are not. The final payment to the grading contractor should be contingent upon the results of the test. The normal acceptance result is to achieve a minimum of 95% of total compaction based on the Proctor test. In a beam digging operation, a beam compaction test can be ordered. The most important part of the foundation pad is the area where the bottom of the grade beams will be bearing.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Schedule the pier drilling contractor (if applicable) to start drilling as soon as the foundation site work (pad) is complete. 1 day operation. Make absolutely certain that the pier centers are located exactly where they should be. (Ref page 64 item # 17)

2. Schedule the foundation contractor for drilled pier labor work. (if applicable)

3. Schedule the concrete pumper truck to be on site 30 minutes before arrival of concrete for pouring the piers. (If applicable) (Ref page 75 item #16) Coordinate all three contractor schedules simultaneously.

4. Schedule the barrier fencing to be installed upon completion of foundation site work.

5. Schedule the trash container to be delivered upon completion of foundation site work.

6. Schedule job site security measures to be installed upon completion of foundation site work.

7. Schedule the foundation contractor for basement forming or slab forming.

(Ref pages 65-72 for item #s 18-22)

*ORDERING ALERT*

If you are responsible for ordering the steel cage material and concrete for the drilled piers, do it now. Coordinate the schedule for the delivery of the materials with the pier drilling contractor and the foundation labor contractor. The steel supplier could probably help you with steel order. The foundation contractor could probably help you with the concrete order. It should take no more than 2 to 3 days to receive the material. (Ref page 64 item # 17)

16-CONCRETE PUMPER TRUCK

Supervision checklist for pumper truck operation:

*Will the access road support the weight of the truck? Many things can happen to the access road in a short amount of time. The pumper truck could be the heaviest piece of equipment to ever be at the site. A fully loaded concrete truck weighs about 65,000 pounds, but a large pumper can be in excess of 80,000 pounds.

*Are there any obstacles that would keep the pumper operator from being able to fully maneuver the boom? Overhead power lines and tree branches can certainly be an issue.

*Did you order a large enough truck? If you ordered it too small, then you are going to lose time on site. It will require more time to get the concrete to the areas where the boom on the pumper could not reach.

17-DRILLED PIERS

Drilled piers are an extremely important part of the foundation. They become the support for the rest of the foundation.

The pier drilling centers are going to have to be laid out on the foundation pad. You need to have someone very experienced in doing this. Benchmark reference points need to be established in order that the foundation contractor can form exactly on the same building line as the piers were. The piers upon completion will be covered up temporarily with dirt by the grading of the pier spoils off of the pad. The foundation contractor will relocate them when excavating the grade beams.

Figure 287-Fabricating drilled pier steel cages at left

Figure 288-Inserting steel cages into pier holes at right

Figure 291-Completed pier drilling

Drilling pier holes—note the painted “X” marks the drilling center in left photo Bell-bottom reaming bit that shapes the bottom of the pier hole into a bell in the right photo

Figure 292-Completed pier hole

Supervision checklist for drilled piers:

*Never schedule any more pier holes to be drilled than can be filled with concrete in the same day. Learn it, live it. If one of the neighbors’ children or pets falls into an unattended pier hole that did not get filled in on the same day, you are in deep s***—and I do not mean sand.

*Have the center drilling points for the piers been checked to make sure they are in the proper locations per the foundation plan? How embarrassing would it be to find out the pier holes are in the wrong location?

*Did you have the contractor drill a test pier hole first about 10 feet away from where the actual piers are going to be located? This is a really good idea. The test hole needs to be drilled to at least the same depth as specified in the plan. If the test hole does not have any issues after a few minutes, then chances are you will not encounter any in the actual piers. Now you can have the contractor start drilling the actual piers.

*Have the pier holes been drilled to the proper depth? This can be checked with a tape measure. This depth will generally be the depth as outlined in the soil test report, unless overridden by the structural engineer. Having said this, there are times when the actual depth of where you are going to find the desired bearing soil is different than that shown on the soil test report. This could be due to several circumstances. The overriding issue is that the bottom of the pier has to be bearing in the required soil as mandated, even if you have to drill the pier two feet deeper or shallower to find it. If an issue arises like this, it is better to back off that pier hole and drill another test hole a few feet away to establish the best depth. Do not blunder on in an actual pier until you have made the adjustment in required depth. This is a perfect example of why you might want the structural engineer present to make decisions.

*Did you check the pier holes to make sure that there is no loose debris, dirt cave-ins, or water migration in them? These things can be checked with a flashlight. If there is debris or dirt cave-ins, the contractor can get it out. If water is slowly seeping into the holes, there generally is not a problem since you are going to place concrete in them quickly. If water starts gushing into the pier hole, stop the operation immediately.

*Have all the piers been drilled? A number of times, some of them can get overlooked. Do a pier count. Does that number coincide with the number that you should have?

*Are all the steel pier cages assembled per the foundation plan? Take a couple of pictures of the steel cages to show how they were built.

*Have all the pier holes been checked to make sure they all have steel cages inserted in them? Sometimes steel insertion gets overlooked in one or two. If you have 50 pier holes and one steel cage left over, it will not compute.

*Is there going to be a pier inspection? You would have already scheduled the engineer prior to the placement of the concrete. The engineer cannot perform an inspection if the concrete is already in the holes.

*Have all the pier holes been checked to make sure they all have concrete in them? It also needs to be determined if the concrete was poured to the proper level in each pier hole.

*Have the spoils from the drilling operation been graded off of the foundation pad? It will be almost impossible to lay out the forms for the foundation as long as these piles of dirt are in the way.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Schedule the foundation contractor for removing pier spoils from foundation pad (if applicable).

2. Schedule the foundation contractor for forming as soon as pad has been graded. (Ref page 71 “forming material and labor”)

3. Schedule the plumbing contractor for the underground plumbing after main forms are completed. This is a 1 to 2 day operation. (Ref page 72 item #23)

4. Schedule the electrician for the underground electrical (if applicable) as soon as the reinforcement steel is installed. This is a 1 day operation. (Ref page 75 item #25)

Note-Additional time will have to be factored in for any required inspections.

*ORDERING ALERT*

1. Order foundation forming material. Coordinate delivery date with contractor. The lumber yard or steel supplier could probably help you with the order.

2. Order foundation steel and supplies. Coordinate delivery date with contractor. 2 to 3 days

18-TOILET FACILITIES

*Has the temporary toilet facility been placed on the jobsite per our discussion in Chapter 3? The toilet should be located on the site that provides easy access for cleaning.

19-BARRIER FENCING

*Has the barrier fencing been installed per our discussion in Chapter 3?

20-TRASH CONTAINER AND DEBRIS REMOVAL

*Has the trash container been placed on the jobsite per our discussion in Chapter 3? The trash container should be located on the site that provides for easy removal and swap out.

21-JOB SITE SECURITY

*Have jobsite security measures been implemented per our discussion in Chapter 3?

22-FOUNDATION CONSTRUCTION

The foundation is by and away the most important construction element in the home. If you do not get this right, everything else you do in the home is meaningless. You will see there are several types of foundations for different situations and budgets. Pay very close attention to this section, as the success of your home may depend on it. Familiarize yourself with the following glossary of terms before moving on.

GLOSSARY OF FOUNDATION TERMS

Admixture: a material other than water, aggregates, cementitious materials, and fiber reinforcement, used as an ingredient in a cementitious mixture to modify its freshly mixed, setting, or hardened properties and is added to the batch before or during its mixing

Admixture, accelerating: an admixture that causes an increase in the rate of hydration of the hydraulic cement and thus shortens the time of setting, increases the rate of strength development, or both

Admixture, air-entraining: an admixture that causes the development of a system of microscopic air bubbles in concrete during mixing, usually to increase its workability and resistance to freezing and thawing

Admixture, retarding: an admixture that causes a decrease in the rate of hydration of the hydraulic cement and lengthens the time of setting

Admixture, water-reducing: an admixture that either increases slump of freshly mixed mortar or concrete without increasing water content or maintains slump with a reduced amount of water, the effect being due to factors other than air-entrainment

Aggregate: a granular material, such as sand, gravel, crushed stone, crushed hydraulic cement concrete, or iron blast-furnace slag, used with a hydraulic cementing medium to produce either concrete or mortar

Air, entrapped: air voids in concrete that are not purposely entrained and that are larger, mainly irregular in shape, and less useful than those of entrained air

Anchor bolts: the steel bolts used to secure a wooden sill plate to concrete, masonry floor, or wall (These are used to resist shear, tension, and vibration loadings from various sources, such as wind and machine vibration.)

Backfill: the replacement of excavated earth into a trench around or against a basement/crawl space foundation wall

Bag of cement (sack): a quantity of Portland cement—94 lb (43 kg) in the United States; for other kinds of cement, a quantity indicated on the bag.

Bar, deformed: a reinforcing bar with a manufactured pattern of surface ridges intended to reduce slip and increase pullout resistance of bars embedded in concrete

Bar spacing: the distance between parallel reinforcing bars, measured center to center of the bars perpendicular to their longitudinal axes

Bar support (chairs): the devices that are used to support or hold reinforcing bars in proper position to prevent displacement before and during the placement of concrete

Batter boards: boards that are constructed horizontally at 90-degree angles outside the proposed corners of a foundation exact corner.)

Figure 293-Photo of batter boards

Block out: a technique of installing a box or barrier within a foundation wall to prevent the concrete from entering an area (For example, foundation walls are sometimes “blocked” in order for mechanical pipes to pass through the wall, install a crawl space door, and to depress the concrete at a garage door location.)

Bracing: a framing member used to strengthen or stiffen some part of the forms

Broom finish: a surface texture obtained by stroking a broom over freshly placed concrete

Bull float: a tool comprising a large, flat, rectangular piece of wood, aluminum, or magnesium, usually 8 inches wide and 42–60 inches long, and a handle 4–20 feet in length used to smooth unformed surfaces of freshly place concrete (The bull float presses the aggregate just below the surface.)

Caisson: a 10- or 12-inch-diameter hole drilled into the earth and embedded into bedrock at three to four feet (It is also the structural support for a type of foundation wall, porch, patio, monopost, or other structure. Two or more “sticks” of reinforcing bars, or rebar, are inserted into and run the full length of the hole, and concrete is poured into the caisson hole.)

Cement: the gray powder that is the “glue” in concrete—more properly known as “Portland cement”

Chairs: plastic devices used to support steel rebar grids prior to pouring concrete

Cold joint: a joint or discontinuity resulting from a delay in placement of sufficient duration to preclude intermingling and bonding of the concrete with a previous placement

Concrete: the mixture of Portland cement, sand, gravel, and water, used to make garage and basement floors, sidewalks, patios, foundation walls, etc. (It is commonly reinforced with steel rods/rebar or wire screening/mesh.)

Concrete, exposed: concrete surfaces formed so as to yield an acceptable texture and finish for permanent exposure to view

Concrete, fiber-reinforced: concrete containing dispersed, randomly oriented fibers

Concrete, high-early-strength: concrete that, through the use of high-early-strength cement or admixtures, attains a given level of strength earlier than normal concrete does

Concrete, high-strength: concrete that has a specified compressive strength for design of 8000 psi or greater.

Concrete, lightweight: concrete having substantially lower density than that made using aggregates of normal density

Concrete block: a hollow concrete construction unit, often 8” x 8” x 16” in size

Control joint: tooled, straight grooves made on concrete floors to “control” where the concrete should crack

Concrete, pumped: concrete that is transported through a hose or pipe by means of a pump

Concrete pumper: a vehicle that pumps the concrete through a hose or pipe to the site of the placement

Concrete, reinforced: structural concrete reinforced with no less than the minimum amount of steel or reinforcement as specified in the applicable building code

Consistency: the degree to which a freshly mixed concrete, mortar, grout, or cement paste resists deformation

Consolidation: the process of reducing the volume of entrapped air in a fresh cementitious mixture, usually accomplished by inputting mechanical energy—normally achieved through the use of a jitterbug (vibrator)

Coring: the act of obtaining cores from hardened concrete (The cores are usually sent to a testing laboratory to test the strength of the concrete.)

Curing, initial: the deliberate action taken between placement and final finishing of concrete to reduce the loss of water from the surface of the concrete

Dowel: a steel pin, commonly a piece of steel rebar that extends into adjoining portions of a concrete construction—an expansion or contraction joint in a pavement slab—so as to transfer shear loads

Efflorescence: a white deposit formed when water-soluble compounds emerge in solution from concrete, masonry, or plaster substrates and precipitate by reaction, such as carbonation or crystallize by evaporation

Expansion joint: suitable materials installed in and around a concrete slab that enable it to expand and contract as necessary

Expansion sleeve: a tubular metal covering for a dowel bar to allow its free longitudinal movement at a joint

Expansive soils: soils that swell and contract depending on the amount of water that is present (“Bentonite” is an example of an expansive soil.)

Exposed aggregate finish: a technique of finishing concrete that washes the cement/sand mixture off the top layer of the aggregate (usually gravel), often used in driveways, patios, and other exterior surfaces

Faced concrete: the process of finishing the front and all vertical sides of a concrete porch, step(s), or patio (Normally the “face” is broom finished.)

Flatwork: a common word for concrete floors, driveways, basements, and sidewalks

Floating: the next-to-last stage in concrete work, when you smooth off the job and bring water to the surface by using a hand float or bull float

Footer, footing: a continuous 8- to 18-inch-thick concrete pad installed before and supports the foundation wall or monopost

Form: the temporary structure erected to contain concrete during placing and initial hardening.

Foundation: the supporting portion of a structure below the first-floor construction, or below-grade, including the footings

Foundation ties (bar ties): metal wires that hold the foundation wall panels and rebar in place during the concrete pour

Foundation waterproofing: a high-quality below-grade moisture protection, used for below-grade exterior concrete and masonry wall damp-proofing to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion (normally looks like black tar)

Frost line: the depth of frost penetration in soil and/or the depth at which the earth will freeze and swell (This depth varies in different parts of the country.)

Grade beam: foundation systems that consist of heavy-duty concrete beams that are often reinforced with rebar or steel mesh for additional strength (Unlike standard spread footers, grade beams are designed to minimize deflection instead of simply transferring loads directly to the ground below. This allows the beam to span loose or unstable areas of soil and redistribute building loads to areas where the soil is more compact.)

Haunch: an extension, knee-like protrusion of the foundation wall that a concrete porch or patio will rest upon for support

Honeycombs: a condition that is caused when air is entrapped in the concrete

Initial set: a degree of stiffening of a mixture of cement and water less than final set, generally stated as an empirical value indicating the time in hours and minutes required for cement paste to stiffen sufficiently to resist, to an established degree, the penetration of workers

Keyway: a slot formed and let into a footer or a foundation (These are positioned so that a wall will be installed on top of the slot location. This gives additional strength to the joint/meeting point.)

Mat (grid): an assembly of steel reinforcement composed of two or more layers of bars placed at angles to each other and secured together with bar ties

Over-vibration: the excessive use of vibrators during placement of freshly mixed concrete, causing segregation, stratification, and excessive bleeding

Parge: the process of coating foundation walls with plaster

Placement: the process of placing and consolidating concrete; a quantity of concrete placed and finished during a continuous operation; inappropriately referred to as “pouring”

Placing: the distribution and consolidation of freshly mixed concrete in the place where it is to harden; inappropriately referred to as “pouring”

Plasticizer: a material that increases the plasticity of a fresh cementitious mixture

Power trowel: a motor-driven device that operates multiple orbiting steel trowels on radial arms from a vertical shaft

Ready-mixed concrete: concrete mixed at a plant and delivered ready for placement

Rebar, reinforcing bar: ribbed steel bars installed in foundation concrete walls, footers, and poured-inplace concrete structures designed to strengthen concrete (Rebar comes in various thicknesses in increments of 1/8 inch. The normal strength grades of rebar for residential construction are grade 40 or 60.)

Rebar: a colloquial term for a reinforcing bar

Reinforcement, deformed: metal bars, wire, or fabric with a manufactured pattern of surface ridges that provide a locking anchorage with surrounding concrete Each manufacturer of rebar has their own identifiable pattern.

Retarder: an admixture that delays the setting of concrete

Retarder, surface: a retarder applied to the contact surface of a form or to the surface of newly placed concrete, to delay the setting of the cement, to facilitate construction joint cleanup, or to facilitate production of exposed aggregate finish

Sack mix: the amount of Portland cement in a cubic yard of concrete mix (Generally, five or six sacks are required in a foundation wall.)

Screed: a term for leveling off the concrete to the correct elevation during a concrete pour

Shallow foundation: A type of foundation which transfers building loads to the earth very near the surface, rather than to a subsurface layer or a range of depths as does a deep foundation (Shallow foundations include spread footing foundations, mat-slab foundations, slab-on-grade foundations, pad foundations, rubble trench foundations, and earth-bag foundations.)

Slab on grade: a type of foundation with a concrete floor that is placed directly on the soil (The edge of the slab is usually thicker and acts as the footing for the walls.)

Slump: a measure of consistency of freshly mixed concrete, equal to the subsidence measured to the nearest 1/4 inch (5 mm) of the molded specimen immediately after removal of the slump cone (A three-inch slump is dryer and stiffer than a five-inch slump. In most residential construction, a five-inch slump is normal)

Sonotube: a round, large cardboard tube designed to hold wet concrete temporarily in place until it hardens

Splice, lap: a connection of reinforcing steel made by overlapping the ends of reinforcement bars by 30 to 40 times the diameter of the steel

Steel inspection: a municipal and/or engineer’s inspection of the concrete foundation wall, conducted before concrete is poured into the foundation panels; done to insure that the rebar (reinforcing bar), rebar mats, void material, beam-pocket plates, and basement window bucks are installed and wrapped with rebar (Steel inspections are also performed on monolithic concrete-slab foundations.)

Sonotube: a round, large cardboard tube designed to hold wet concrete temporarily in place until it hardens

Splice, lap: a connection of reinforcing steel made by overlapping the ends of reinforcement bars by 30 to 40 times the diameter of the steel

Steel inspection: a municipal and/or engineer’s inspection of the concrete foundation wall, conducted before concrete is poured into the foundation panels; done to insure that the rebar (reinforcing bar), rebar mats, void material, beam-pocket plates, and basement window bucks are installed and wrapped with rebar (Steel inspections are also performed on monolithic concrete-slab foundations.)

Tamper: a device used for pushing coarse aggregate slightly below the surface of a slab to facilitate finishing

Ties (bar ties): steel wires that are used to bond steel elements together in a foundation at every intersection

Trowel: a flat, broad-blade steel hand tool used in the final stages of finishing operations to impart a relatively smooth surface to concrete floors and other unformed concrete surfaces

Trowel finish: the smooth or textured finish of an unformed concrete surface obtained by troweling

Vibrator (jitterbug): an oscillating machine used to agitate fresh concrete so as to eliminate gross voids, including entrapped air but not entrained air, and to produce intimate contact with form surfaces and embedded materials, such as steel

Visqueen: a six-mil polyethylene material that is used extensively as a moisture barrier under concrete slabs

Void boxes: rectangular cardboard boxes that are installed between the earth (between caissons) and the concrete foundation wall, used when expansive soils are present

Yard of concrete: 3’ x 3’ x 3’ in volume, or 27 cubic feet (One cubic yard of concrete will pour 81 square feet of four-inch sidewalk or basement/garage floor.)

FOUNDATION FORMING-subcategory of foundation construction

You as the supervisor need to stay on top of this operation. It could all start going wrong if error in the forms is left unnoticed. The concrete will only take the shape of the forms that are erected. You have got one shot at making this right. Don’t blow it.

Supervision checklist for foundation forming:

*Are the forms being laid out in exactly the right location? This may not be an issue when you are building on acreage, but when you are building on a small, tight lot, a few inches off, one way or the other, could cause the foundation to encroach into a building line or easement. I had one job where we had a total of two inches to play with between building lines in order to establish the location of the home.

*Are the forms in compliance with any mandated height requirement?

*Are the forms being set high enough to allow for proper water drainage and for future landscaping? Raising the dirt or building up flowerbeds around a foundation can be problematic if the foundation wasn’t high enough to start with. Having the forms a little higher than normal will never hurt you, but having them lower always will. At this moment, you are wondering, why would a builder not raise the forms a little higher and avoid future complaints? The answer is money. For each one inch of form that the builder does not have to go up, he can save literally thousands of dollars on the foundation costs. Anytime you have these kinds of questions, the answer will most certainly go back to money. Take a few pictures of the forms from various positions.

*Are the forms dimensionally correct? This can be checked with a tape measure. These dimensions should correspond to the foundation plan. Remember, you will be measuring from the inside of the forms. Form setters can make dimensional errors. Now is the time to catch these mistakes.

*Are the forms square and true? This can be checked with a tape measure. Let me try to explain this to you the best way I can. Start at one of the outside corners. Remember, all your measurements will be taken from the inside of the forms. From your starting point, measure down one of the forms three feet and make a small mark with a pencil. Again, from your starting point, measure down the adjacent form four feet and make a small mark. If your forms are a true 90 degrees at the corners, then the distance between the two pencil marks will be exactly five feet. If it’s not, something’s wrong. What I just explained to you is the field technique of the 3-4-5 methodology. You can use any multiple of 3-4-5 in progression to achieve the same end.

For example: 6-8-10, 9-12-15, 12-16-20, and so on. This is the field explanation of Pythagorean’s theorem. The theorem goes something like this: The sum of the squares of the legs of a right triangle equals the square of the hypotenuse. I guess you know now why they prefer to call it the 3-4-5 method. The larger the sequence of numbers that you use, the more accurate the result will be. If you purchase a Construction Master calculator, you could enter the actual feet and inches of each leg, and it would give you the diagonal dimension in feet and inches. Believe me, this is much faster and much more accurate than the 3-4-5 technique. This calculator will become your right arm.

*Are the forms level? This can be determined more accurately by using a laser builder’s level. You will be able to do it by yourself. You can rent these, but you would be better off buying a good one, because you are going to be using a builder’s level many times.

*Is the garage slab being formed to have a 3-inch slope to the overhead doors? This keeps any water from standing in the garage.

*Have all basement windows and beam-pocket block outs been installed?

*Has any required foundation form survey been completed and approved prior to pouring concrete? It is best to have this survey done after all the forms are set. This survey ensures you have established the correct minimum foundation elevation as it pertains to the BFE established by FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency). It also establishes that you are not encroaching into an easement or going beyond a building line. If you wait until after the foundation is poured to have this done, you may have just caused yourself a lot of problems. My words of advice are, “Do not assume anything.” You are probably going to have an elevation certificate before you can receive the foundation draw. Remember, this only applies in those areas that require it.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule under-slab termite treatment if applicable. 1 day operation. This has to take place as soon as the beams are dug and right before the moisture barrier is installed. This is a very small window of opportunity. (Ref page 73 item #24)

Schedule concrete pumper truck for foundation pour. The pumper needs to be on site at least 30 minutes before concrete arrival. Coordinate schedule with foundation contractor. 1 day operation. (Ref page 75 item #16)

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order foundation concrete. Coordinate delivery date with foundation contractor.

This may take upwards of a week or more to get depending upon how busy the supplier is. (Ref page 263 “concrete mixing”)

23-UNDERGROUND PLUMBING INSTALLATION

Underground plumbing applies to basement floors and slab foundations. The drainage, waste, and vent system will have numerous stub-up locations. The system will be stubbed up out of the slab to be connected to the rough plumbing later. There can also be water lines and gas lines that have to stub at specific locations.

Figure 294-Basement underground plumbing

Figure 295-Slab underground plumbing

Scheduling-In the case of a slab foundation, the underground plumbing will be the next activity after the main forms are set. This will take on average 1 to 2 days to complete.

Supervision checklist for underground plumbing installation:

*Is the plumber constructing the dwv system with schedule 40 PVC? The use of thin-wall PVC should not be allowed.

*Is primer being used on joints? With very exceptions, the pipe has to be brushed with primer before the joints are cemented with solvent. You should see evidence of the primer at each joint.

*Is the dwv system being installed with the correct slope? The slope needs to be 1/8-inch per foot for pipe that is 3-inches in diameter or larger. The slope needs to be1/4- inch per foot for pipe that is less than 3-inches in diameter. There should be no dips in the pipe that could trap waste.

*Is the piping properly supported? Pipe that isn’t supported properly can sag, crack, and eventually break.

*Are the stub-ups for the drainage, waste, and vent lines in the proper locations? This is extremely critical with a slab foundation. It applies to basement floors and house slabs. The stub-ups, except for the toilets, are ultimately going to be contained in a wall or kitchen island. If the stub-up missed its proper location, then a decision has to be made to either move the wall or break up the foundation and relocate the line. It is a whole lot easier to have your plumber double-check his measurements. I have checked a number of my own jobs and discovered that the plumber made errors. In all fairness to the plumber, all he has to go by to reference his locations are the forms. Can you imagine how screwed up the plumbing would be if the forms were wrong? You are not going to let that happen, are you? This has to be checked by timely measuring. Take a few pictures of all of the under-slab installations.

*Have all the stub-ups been accounted for? Get with the plumber and have him show you what each of the stub-ups relates to.

*Have all the pipes that will be passing through concrete been protected with sheathing or wrap? Wrapping the pipes protect them from abrasive action caused by expansion and contraction of concrete and it protects them from chemical reaction caused by the lime and acid in the concrete. This also includes the piping that will be passing through a grade beam or footer.

*Have all required inspections been completed and approved? As part of any inspection, even if you are the only one doing any inspection work, you should make sure that the plumber does either a water test or air test. Generally water test would consist of a minimum of 10’ water column above the highest fitting or the highest point in the completed system for 15 minutes.
An air test consists of maintaining a gauge pressure of 5 psi for 15 minutes.
This has to be done before the work gets covered up with dirt. A passing test should also be required before the plumber receives his underground plumbing draw.

*Have the trenches that contain pipe been backfilled with material that distribute the pressure on the pipes equally and not damage the pipes?

*Has the plumber cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

SHALLOW FOUNDATION EXCAVATION-subcategory of foundation construction

You, as the supervisor, do not have the luxury of waiting until after the forming operation is complete to determine if any of the items are wrong. You need to start the job with the forming contractor and stay there until you feel satisfied that it is under control for that day. Then, as the forming work advances, you need to check the additional work that was done to make sure it is right. Do you see how critical it is at this point to check for these items on an ongoing basis? If not supervised properly at this stage of construction, the outcome could be disastrous.

Figure 296-Digging grade beams by hand

Figure 297-Digging grade beams with a mini trac-hoe

You are never going to mistake this operation for something that is high tech. This kind of work is very difficult. These men and all men that will be working on your job deserve your respect until they do something wrong that causes you to rethink that position. As a builder, you are always trying to get the very best effort out of each subcontractor. If it turns out that their best is not good enough, you have to know when to get them off the job and bring someone else in.

Supervision checklist for shallow foundation excavation:

*Are the beams or footers being dug to the proper depth and width as outlined in the approved plans, soil test report or mandated by the structural engineer? It is imperative that the foundation is placed on the correct bearing soil. You can check this with a tape measure. Take a couple of pictures of the excavated beams.

*Are all the beams being dug according to the plan layout? Once in a while, a beam is overlooked. This is a visual check. Take a couple of pictures of the beams after they are completed.

*Are the bottoms of the beams flat without swales or valleys?

*Are the bottoms of the beams going to have a compaction test? This is generally an optional test offered by geotechnical engineers. It is possible that the structural engineer has required this test. In most cases, the engineer wants the bottom of the beam or footer to have a minimum compression rating of about 1,200 pounds per square foot.

*Have any required compaction tests and inspections been performed? These will have to be completed and approved before you install the moisture barrier.

24-UNDER-SLAB TERMITE TREATMENT

Approved combinations of methods may be used. For decay prevention, any wood (siding, trim, framing) within 6 inches of the finished grade must be protected. Additionally, wood girders within 12 inches, wood structural floor within 18 inches, and wood sills on masonry slabs within 8 inches must also be protected. Decay prevention and termite protection are addressed jointly with wood treatment and naturally resistant wood. Structural controls for termites, such as sand barriers and termite shields, will not eliminate the need for decay prevention in wood within the distances from the ground mentioned above.

Sand barriers for subterranean termites are a physical deterrent because the termites cannot tunnel through it. Sand barriers can be applied in the following areas:

Crawl spaces

Under pier-and-beam foundations

Under-slab foundations

Sixteen-grit sand or cinder is placed in a 20-inch band on the soil surface or in trenches next to foundation walls. The sand layer should be four inches thick at the foundation and feathered out to meet the grade at the outer edge of the 20-inch band. For trench installations, trenches should be four inches deep and six inches wide.

Some integrated pest management experts have developed a machine called a “sand pump” that blows sand under the house. For sand barriers around the outside perimeter of a foundation, they recommend a sand trench in order to avoid disturbance of the sand. In addition, a cap made of masonry or other materials may be recommended to protect the barrier from gardening, animals, etc. Tamping sand can be done to increase impermeability to termite attack.

Supervision-The under-slab termite treatment will be done right after the grade beams have been dug and before the moisture barrier is placed. This is a 1 day activity.

Supervision checklist for under-slab termite treatment:

*Have you given the applicator plenty of advance notice? A good applicator will keep an eye on the job himself, and he will know when to come in and treat. Having said that, you cannot assume he will do that. They have a new thing called a cell phone—use it.

*Has the applicator provided you with any state documentation showing you what he did?

Figure 298-Photo of under-slab termite treatment

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule the framing carpenter. Framing should start as soon as the foundation grading is complete. This is a 5 to 8 week operation based on a 3,000 square foot custom home. The time will fluctuate depending upon the complexity of the home and the amount of cornice detailing. (Ref page 76 item #27)

RADON BARRIER-subcategory of foundation construction

There are numerous steps that can be taken in order to minimize Radon gas. Most of the procedures involve the installation of a suitable Radon barrier. In five states in the country, Radon mitigation systems are mandatory.

The following guidelines are excerpts from ASTM E1465-08a guidelines

Fan-powered, soil depressurization, radon-reduction techniques, such as those specified in this practice, have been used successfully for slab-on-grade, basement, and crawlspace foundations throughout the world.

Fan-powered soil depressurization, the principal strategy described in this practice, offers the most effective and most reliable radon reduction of all currently available strategies. Historically, far more fan-powered soil depressurization radon reduction systems have been successfully installed and operated than all other radon reduction methods combined.

Acceptable radon concentration—As of this writing the U.S. EPA recommended action level is to reduce the radon concentrations in residential buildings that have test results showing 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) (150 becquerels of radon per cubic meter (Bq/m3)) or more.

Radon occurs to some degree in all parts of the country. Look at the generalized geological radon potential and see what area you are in

Figure 299-Generalized Radon map of the United States

If you live in an area where Radon is a concern or you just want more education, then I encourage you to purchase the 38 page PDF download ASTM E1465-08a which is the Standard Practice for Radon Control Options for the design and construction of New Low-Rise Residential Buildings. This does include single family residences. The cost is $60 with tax.

This is the most concise, detailed standards for the installation of proper Radon mitigation systems.

I have this publication, and I refer to it often. This is money well spent.

MOISTURE BARRIER-subcategory of foundation construction

Supervision checklist for moisture barrier:

*Has any required under-slab termite treatment been installed?

*Has the moisture barrier been installed? In a slab foundation, a moisture barrier will be placed over the excavated earth first before steel placement. Generally, the moisture barrier is a six-mil-thick black polyethylene. This barrier prevents moisture and mineral deposits from leaching through the concrete into the living space. These deposits are known as efflorescence, and can ruin flooring materials that come in contact with them. This is checked visually. Take a couple of pictures of the moisture barrier. Installing a moisture barrier also applies to a basement slab floor.

Figure 300-Moisture barrier being installed

*Are the seams in the barrier overlapping a minimum of 6-inches?

*Have all overlapping seams in the barrier been sealed with duct tape?

*Have any significant rips or holes in the moisture been repaired? What is the point of having the moisture barrier if there are big gaping holes in it?

*Has the moisture barrier been sealed around the DWV stub-ups?

FOUNDATION STEEL INSTALLATION-subcategory of foundation construction

I do not subscribe to using wire mesh in any concrete operation. I have asked my students to pretend that the mesh was never invented. You will stay out of a lot of potential problems. Wire mesh will be shown on a plan as WWM (welded wire mesh) #6 or #10. The numbers are the gauge of the wire that it is made of. The lower the number is, the thicker the wire. It is not a good reinforcing material. Many contractors do not know how to install it properly. Why would you take the risk?

Figure 301-Installed rebar in slab-foundation

Figure 302-Installed steel in basement foundation

Supervision checklist for reinforcement steel installation:

*Is the reinforcement steel sized per foundation plan?

*Are the steel elements being spaced per the foundation plan?

*Are the splices in the steel constructed properly? The engineer will stipulate on the foundation plan how steel rebars are to be spliced. Splicing is joining two pieces of rebar together in order to form a continuous specified length. The procedure for splicing is to overlap the ends of the steel rebar together. How much you overlap is mandated by the engineer. They generally will specify the rebar to be overlapped a minimum of 30 or 40 times the diameter of the steel. For example, a splice for #5 rebar (5/8 inch) with a requirement of 30 times the diameter will have an overlap of 18 3/4-inch minimum. Do you understand that? If you wanted to overlap it more, that is up to you. The more you overlap the steel, the more steel you are going to have to purchase. What the supervisor will do is walk around and inspect the splices visually, spot-checking with a tape measure. After a few measurements, you will be able to tell by eye if you have a good splice. I use a bright-pink inverted marking paint to mark the splices that need to be reinforced.

*Is the steel being tied with bar ties at each intersection? The steel should be tied together at every junction point.

*Is there a minimum of 1 1/2-inch of space between the steel and the forms and/or earth? Steel needs to be encased with a minimum of 1 1/2-inches of concrete in order to be sealed from oxygen and provide maximum tensile strength. If the steel comes in contact with oxygen, it will rust and ultimately fail. This is a visual inspection. If any of the steel is too close to the forms or earth, the foundation contractor can pry it away. I use the same pink marking paint to mark the locations where the steel needs spacing attention. The foundation contractor loves it when you spray paint all over the place. The positive effect is that it lets them know that you are watching. Take several pictures of different areas of the steel installation.

*Are there any dirt cave-ins that would diminish the required spacing around any of the steel? This is one facet of supervision that will have to be checked often.

*Are any required steel inspections completed and approved? If you schedule concrete and have not received the okay to cover up from the inspector, you are putting yourself at risk unnecessarily.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

25-UNDER-SLAB ELECTRICAL

The electrical conduit and boxes should be installed for future floor plugs or any other under-slab requirements. We discussed in a previous chapter how important it is to make sure that this installation gets done. The electrician is supplied with cross-referencing dimensions in order to make sure that the installations are in the right locations. Do you remember what we said the ramifications would be later if this work did not get installed before the concrete pour? Just in case you forgot, does the word jackhammer mean anything to you?

Scheduling-This is an important step. This should be installed right after the reinforcement steel is in place. It generally will only take a few hours to install. It will about the last activity that takes place before the concrete is placed.

Supervision checklist for under-slab electrical:

*Has the electrical installed an electrical grounding conductor to a 20 foot piece of reinforcing steel?

*Have all required underground electrical installations been positioned in the right locations? This is the last installation that is done prior to pouring the concrete and is extremely important. I have seen this screwed up many times. Major furniture placement is key in determining where floor outlets should be. Cross-referencing measurements of these locations have to be given to the electrician, so he can install the conduit and floor boxes. He will be measuring off of the forms.

*Have any required underground electrical inspections been completed and approved?

*Have you performed a pre–concrete foundation inspection? This is your last opportunity to inspect the work before it is covered up with concrete. At this final inspection, you will be looking for last-minute items, such as tears or holes in the moisture barrier, dirt cave-ins in the beams that would affect proper bearing or concrete encasement around steel, and forms that have been dislodged, etc. At this point, anything that is found should be minor in nature. All the previous supervision should have uncovered any significant items.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule foundation grading. This should be performed as soon as foundation forms are wrecked and all foundation debris is removed. 1 day operation. (Ref page 76 item #26)

*ORDERING ALERT*

1. Order the first load of framing material. The lumber should not be dropped on site until the completion of the foundation grading. Coordinate delivery date with framing contractor. (Ref page 76 “framing lumber”)

2. Order the structural support steel such as beams, basement pipe columns, etc. Note-pipe column supports for porches cannot be ordered until after the carpenter has completed the framing of the porches. The carpenter will install temporary support. The columns can then be ordered to exact lengths. Coordinate this with the framing contractor. It may take 3 to 5 days to have the material delivered. Pipe columns should be primed with a metal primer. (Ref page 77 “support steel”)

3. Order any applicable exterior special decorative columns. (Ref page 80 “special columns”)

16-CONCRETE PUMPER TRUCK

This equipment is scheduled in advance of the concrete operation. When the supervisor orders the pumper, several things need to be taken into consideration.

Supervision checklist for pumper truck operation:

*Will the access road support the weight of the truck? Many things can happen to the access road in a short amount of time. The pumper truck could be the heaviest piece of equipment to ever be at the site. A fully loaded concrete truck weighs about 65,000 pounds, but a large pumper can be in excess of 80,000 pounds.

*Are there any obstacles that would keep the pumper operator from being able to fully maneuver the boom? Overhead power lines and tree branches can certainly be an issue.

*Did you order a large enough truck? If you ordered it too small, then you are going to lose time on site. It will require more time to get the concrete to the areas where the boom on the pumper could not reach.

Figure 303-Concrete pumper truck

CONCRETE OPERATION-subcategory of foundation construction

The concrete needs to be mixed as per the specifications. The concrete should have no more than a five-inch slump. The slump is directly related to the amount of water in the mix. Let me try to explain this requirement. A test cone filled with concrete, which has a vague similarity to a cheerleader’s megaphone, is tamped in order to eliminate entrapped air. Then the cone is removed to measure the vertical distance from the top of the cone to the top of the slumped pile of concrete. This distance should not exceed five inches. The more water that is added to the mixture, the more it will slump, and the weaker the strength of the concrete becomes. In highway construction, for example, the concrete will be ordered with a one-inch slump. That is very stiff concrete that has to be worked with machinery.

Figure 304-Placing concrete in beams

The supervisor will not let the foundation contractor add water to the mix unless there is an exceptional reason. The normal strength requirement for residential foundation concrete is 3,000 psi. Adding too much water at the job site will reduce the strength of the concrete to less than 3,000 psi.

Any anchor bolts, vertical rebar, or seismic fasteners need to be installed in the concrete. Every type of foundation is going to have some fastening device or reinforcement bar protruding from the concrete. The trick is in knowing when and where to install them. Concrete will give you a relatively small window of opportunity in order to install the devices before it sets up too hard. The supervisor’s role is to make sure that the foundation contractor does not overlook these installations.

The foundation contractor needs to use a jitterbug inside the forms in order to eliminate any entrapped air. The jitterbug is a vibrator that is lowered into the wet concrete a few times in one spot before moving on to the next. As the entrapped air is released, the level of the concrete in the form drops. Remember that oxygen is the number one enemy of the steel.

The foundation contractor should apply a proper finish to the surface of the concrete. Proper floating and troweling is very important. Too much floating or too much troweling can ruin the finish. All the forms should be removed after completion of the foundation. It is the responsibility of the contractor to remove (wreck) the forms and pile them up in one area. Some of the forming material may be used later for inconsequential work in the home, such as temporary bracing, scaffolding, blocking, etc.

It is plain to see the supervisor has a big role in the successful or unsuccessful outcome of the foundation. Many builders do not have the caliber of supervisor on the job as they should. It is sad, and it is unnecessary. You, however, are not going to let this happen. You have enough supervisory inspection points to make sure that the foundation is done correctly.

You can tell in figure 304 that the concrete is a good mix. The concrete is not flowing like water, and the aggregate in the mix is uniform throughout.

.

Figure 305-Completed walk-out basement foundation

Figure 306-Completed ICF block concrete foundation

(Note the perimeter drainage system)

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Figure 307-Completed pier-and-beam foundation

Figure 308-Framing on pier-and-beam foundation

Figure 309-Completed monolithic slab foundation

Figure 310-Completed poured concrete wall foundation

Supervision checklist for foundation operation:

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved prior to pouring concrete?

*Is the strength and slump requirement for ordering the concrete as outlined in the foundation plan?

*Has the concrete been vibrated inside the forms to release the entrapped air and prevent honeycombing?

*Have the anchor bolts been spaced and installed properly? The bolts should have maximum spacing of 6 feet on center with a minimum of 7-inch embedment into the concrete. Anchor bolts will be spaced no more than 4 feet on center if you are building the home to a windstorm resistant guideline. The bolts should be placed so that there will be a bolt within 12-inches of the end of each section of plate, but no closer to the ends than 3 ½ inches. On longer walls, calculate where two sections of plate will butt and make sure that 2 anchor bolts are placed close enough together to be in compliance with the above spacing requirement. There has to be a minimum of 2 anchor bolts for any section of plate. Don’t overlook putting anchor bolts on each side of a plumbing vent pipe,

*Have all vertical rebar, or seismic fasteners been installed per the approved plan?

*Is the concrete being finished flat and smooth?

*Have any required foundation inspections after the concrete operation been completed and approved? If so, then this should be required as a condition for receiving any payments.

*Has the perimeter drainage system been installed properly?

*After completion of the foundation, did the contractor wreck the forms and clean up the site?

PERIMETER DRAINAGE SYSTEM-subcategory of foundation construction

This primarily applies to basement construction, but a perimeter drainage system could be used in other types of work. This is a network of drainage pipes underneath the basement slab and a drainage pipe around the perimeter of the footers of the basement. These pipes tie into a device called a sump crock. The subsurface water will be picked up by the pipes and flow to the collection crock. A sump pump will then pump the water away from the foundation. This installation is part of the basement contractor’s proposal.

Figure 311-Illustration of perimeter drainage system

26-FOUNDATION GRADING

Supervision checklist for foundation grading:

*Was the perimeter drainage system installed correctly?

* Have any applicable forms been wrecked? All forming stakes and bracing also need to be removed.

*Were the basement walls sealed with a proper waterproof membrane prior to backfilling?

*Were the basement walls braced properly prior to backfilling?

*Is the proper backfill material being used? It should be free of any debris that could damage the waterproof membrane.

*Has the grade been raised to the proper level on the foundation? This also applies to a slab foundation.

*Has the grade been sloped away from the foundation to allow for proper drainage?

27-FRAMING

Scheduling-The average time to frame in a 3,000 square foot custom home to completion is 7 to 10 weeks. This schedule includes all cornice detail work, siding, hurricane straps and clips, and a roof underlayment.

If you are building a home on a basement or pier-and-beam foundation, the floor framing begins the process. Every phase of framing requires attention to detail because everything the carpenter does will affect another subcontractor later. Because the framing happens quickly, a lot of error can be built into the home before you realize it. A good supervisor will stay on top of this fast-moving process daily.

For the purposes of explanation, it is easier to break the total framing down into its major categories. As the supervisor, you should use a note pad or tape recorder to record issues that need attention. You also need to develop a pattern or regimen of inspecting the framing. My own personal pattern is to walk around the house in a clockwise direction, inspecting the exterior first. I would start at the bottom and work my way up to the top of the highest completed framing at that point. Inspecting any roof framing from the ground will be made a lot easier with a set of binoculars. Then I would proceed inside and use the same clockwise rotation in the first room. While in that room, I would focus on just the work that has been completed in that one room. I would start at the bottom first and slowly scan my way clockwise around the room until I completed my inspection with the ceiling joists. When I was through inspecting that room, I would move clockwise to the next and so on. If I spotted an issue that needed correction, I would mark it with some bright-pink spray paint (the type where you can invert the can). Once the correction was made, I would take a large black permanent felt-tip marking pen and make an “X” on top of the pink spray mark. That let me know that the item was corrected, and I would not have to think about it anymore. A consistent inspection pattern ensures nothing is overlooked.

Even if you are a novice at this game, I have given you enough information to make you an effective supervisor. If you run across something you don’t understand, do not be afraid to ask someone. If you need me to answer something for you, go to my website mastersguidetohomebuilding.com. I would be glad to help. You have the advantage today of being able to use the Internet for information. I keep my laptop with me in the truck while at the job site. If I need to, I can do some online pricing, ordering, or just research a topic of interest. Think about doing that as well.

Before you can start to supervise framing, you need to know the terminology that is used in framing. Refer to the following glossary of terms at the beginning of each phase of framing. This will be virtually all the framing terms you will encounter in homebuilding. After the list of framing terms, you will be given a supervision checklist for each facet of work. You will also be provided with pictures that show many of the framing areas being discussed. Remember, in Chapter 3, I provided you with a lot of descriptions and explanations. Refer back to that chapter as necessary. Then you will be able to relate the terms to the actual visual location. If you take the time to familiarize yourself with these terms and the role they play, you will be miles ahead of most people. Roll up your sleeves, and let the good times roll.

FRAMING LUMBER-subcategory of framing

This is a good time to become familiar with the main material that your home is constructed of. Reviewing the following terms will give you a much better understanding of lumber.

GLOSSARY OF FRAMING LUMBER TERMS

Air Drying: A method of seasoning wood that allows covered stacks of cut lumber to dry naturally in open air

Anisotropic: Exhibiting different properties when measured along different axes. In general, fibrous materials such as wood are anisotropic.

Annual Ring: The rings that are generated each year as a tree grows. By counting the growth rings the age of the tree can be determined. The size of the rings can also indicate what type of growing season occurred during the year

Appearance Lumber: A variety of non-structural grades intended for applications where strength is not the primary consideration.

Autoclave: Cylindrical vessel in which wood is impregnated with a preservative under high pressure.

Used to treat lumber, round wood posts and poles or any other wood based product which must be protected from rot or insect attack.

Backing veneer: The layer of veneer used on the reverse side of a piece of plywood from the face or decorative side

Bending strength: A measure of the resistance of wood to an applied bending stress which is a combination of three primary stresses, i.e., compressive, tensile, and shear stresses.

BF: Symbol for board foot.

Bleaching, pulp: The process of removing residual lignin from pulp to improve the brightness and strength.

Board Foot: A board foot is a unit of quantity equal in volume to a board 12 inches long x 12 inches wide x 1 inch thick.

Bole: The lower section of a trunk of a tree from the ground to the first limb or branch.

Bow: Longitudinal distortion of lumber from a true plane, from end to end.

Broad-leaved trees: Trees which shed their leaves in the autumn. Most broadleaved or deciduous trees are hardwoods and have broad leaves.

Burl: A wart-like growth or bump on the trunk of a tree that when cut into veneer produces a spectacle pattern. Burled walnut, maple, and rosewood veneers are especially prized by woodworkers.

Buttress: The broad base of a tree trunk that provides the strength for a tree to support its own weight.

Camber: The curvature built into a beam (in a direction opposite to the expected deflection) to prevent it from appearing to sag under a loaded condition.

CDX: Structural panel grades are generally identified in terms of the veneer grade used on the face and back of the panel. The minimum grade of veneer permitted in exterior plywood is C-grade. D-grade veneer is used in panels intended for interior use or applications protected from permanent exposure to weather such as roofing and sub-floors. CD plywood with exterior glue not intended for long-term exterior use must be covered.

Checks: Lengthwise splits in wood which may occur as wood is dried or seasoned. Typically occurs across the rings of annual growth.

Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA): The most commonly used chemical for pressure treating lumber.

Conifer: Conifer species are trees or shrubs of the evergreen variety that bear cones. An example is pine.

Cunit: A measurement equal to 100 cubic feet of solid wood.

Deciduous: Trees are classified as deciduous if they shed their leaves annually. Typically these trees are of the hardwood variety; however, some softwood varieties also drop their needles annually.

Defect: A characteristic of a tree, log, lumber, or other product that makes it either less desirable or completely unsuitable for the intended purpose (Examples are knots, decay, insect holes, and diagonal grain.)

Deflection: Downward vertical displacement due to a load.

Dehumidifier kiln: A kiln working on the heat pump principle. Moisture evaporated from the timber by a flow of warm air is condensed on the evaporator coils of a refrigeration unit and drained away. The refrigerant is compressed and passed through condenser coils, re-heating the air stream.

Dense: A reference to the specific gravity of wood. Lumber classified as “dense” has six or more annual rings per inch, plus one-third or more summerwood, measured at either end. Pieces averaging less than six rings per inch also qualify if the rings average one-half or more summerwood.

Design Span: Span used to calculate the strength and deflection of a member usually measured from center to center of the bearing surface at each support.

Dimension Lumber: Lumber that is sawn and planed to standard sizes and lengths 2x4 through 2x12 inches across the grain by 8 to 24 feet in length. This is the lumber most often used in construction.

Dimensional Lumber: General term for framing lumber. Examples would be 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc

Dressed lumber: Lumber that has been trimmed and planed at the sawmill.

Dressed size: The dimensions of lumber after being surfaced with a planing machine. A 2- by 4-inch stud, for example, actually measures about 1-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches.

Dry: Seasoned, usually to a moisture content of less than 19%.

Dry kiln: A chamber in which lumber is dried by controlling the moisture, temperature and air circulation.

Dry lumber: As applied to softwoods, lumber sold as “dry” or “kiln dried” is at 19% or lower moisture content, as specified by the American Softwood Lumber Standards. Hardwoods are generally considered dry when at 10% or lower moisture content, although there is no definitive standard as with softwood species.

Earlywood: The early part of a growth ring, consisting of pale inner wood with thin walls, formed in the spring and early summer. This is also known as springwood.

Dressed size: The dimensions of lumber after being surfaced with a planing machine. A 2- by 4-inch stud, for example, actually measures about 1-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches.

Dry: Seasoned, usually to a moisture content of less than 19%.

Dry kiln: A chamber in which lumber is dried by controlling the moisture, temperature and air circulation.

Dry lumber: As applied to softwoods, lumber sold as “dry” or “kiln dried” is at 19% or lower moisture content, as specified by the American Softwood Lumber Standards. Hardwoods are generally considered dry when at 10% or lower moisture content, although there is no definitive standard as with softwood species.

Eight Quarters: The thickness of a board “in the rough” is defined in quarter inches. Four quarters (4/4) is actually 1 inch thick. Five quarters (5/4) is 1-1/4 inch thick, etc. Therefore, an eight quarters (8/4) board thickness would equate to 2-inches thick before planing.

End Grain: The surface of wood exposed after cutting across the fibers. The early part of a growth ring, consisting of pale inner wood with thin walls, formed in the spring and early summer. This is also known as springwood.

Engineered Wood: Lamination technology allows the bonding or gluing of individual, thin sections of wood together to form long, straight lengths of lumber commonly called engineered wood products. Floor joists, beams and timbers are manufactured from smaller trees often from species once considered undesirable for building. This engineered process delivers quality and outstanding performance while also making more efficient use of our wood resources.

Equalization: The process of narrowing the moisture distribution between boards at the end of a drying charge

Face veneer: 1. High quality veneer that is used for the exposed surfaces on plywood.

                       2. The decorative veneer on the face of the panel; the exposed side, be it wall paneling, furniture, cabinet or other.

Fiber saturation point (fsp): The moisture content at which moisture is saturated within the cell walls of wood and the cell cavities are free of water. This averages around 20 percent MC. Below FSP water is held in wood as bound water within the cell cavities or lumen.

Finger-Jointed: A process of joining shorter, defect-free lengths of stock together to form longer lengths. A series of “fingers” are milled into each end of the sections, which are then glued to each other to form the length. The “fingers” create a larger gluing surface than would exist if the stock were butted together. This increased gluing surface creates a joint that is actually stronger than the surrounding wood itself.

Flitch: A large piece of lumber cut out of a log that is then sawn into boards or veneer strips.

Flitch beam: A structural beam comprised of layers of laminate to form a wider, more solid beam.

Floor truss: May be used instead of regular joists or I-joists, floor trusses are generally placed on wider centers, are deeper and more expensive than other joists. Floor trusses are designed to allow plumbing, electrical, and heating runs to be placed inside of them instead of below them like is often required in other joists.

Formaldehyde: A component of resin used to manufacture plywood and panel products, and a naturally occurring component of wood.

Framing lumber: Includes the grades intended for structural applications in both conventional and pre-engineered framing systems.

Full sawn: Lumber cut, in the rough, to its full nominal size.

Glue lam beam: Short for glue-laminated beam, it is made of several layers of dimensional lumber glued together so that the joints in each layer are overlapped by other layers to provide strength. If the glue-lam beam has a camber, it should be installed with the camber up.

Glulam: Structural glued laminated timber. An engineered (manmade) timber used as load-carrying structural framing for roofs and other structural portions of building. Refers to products made by bonding suitably selected and prepared wood laminations with adhesives.

Grade: The designation of the quality of a manufactured piece of wood or of logs.

Grade stamp: An inked marking put on lumber to show its important characteristics and mill information.

Grain: The direction, size, arrangement, appearance, or quality of the fibers in wood or lumber. To have a specific meaning the term must be qualified.

Hardboard: Generic term for a panel manufactured primarily from wood fibers which are pressed together under heat and pressure in a large press. Typically used under floor coverings.

Hardwoods: Generally one of the botanical groups of trees that have broad leaves in contrast to the conifers or softwoods. The term has no reference to the actual hardness of wood.

Heartwood: The wood extending from the pith to the sapwood, the cells of which no longer participate in the life processes of the tree. Heartwood may contain phenolic compounds, gums, resins, and other materials that usually make it darker and more decay resistant than sapwood. Heartwood is very pronounced in southern pine.

Honeycomb: A cellular separation in the interior of a wood piece, usually along the wood grain, a result of internal stress. It normally occurs during kiln drying, particularly in White or Red Oak, when too much heat is applied too rapidly.

I-joists: Wooden members made of two pieces of LVL held together with a web of OSB. I-joists are substituted for wide dimensional lumber as a support for a ceiling or floor.

Industrial Lumber: Includes both structural and non-structural grades that are intended for specific applications. Mining timbers, scaffold planks, foundation lumber and stress-related boards.

KD: Kiln-dry wood. Wood dried in a kiln with the use of artificial heat to specified moisture content.

Kiln: A chamber having controlled airflow, temperature, and relative humidity for drying lumber, veneer, and other wood products.

Knot: That portion of a branch or limb that has been surrounded by subsequent growth of the stem. The shape of the knot as it appears on a cut surface depends on the angle of the cut relative to the long axis of the knot.

Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL): Structural grade timber veneers glued together under pressure to form a dimensionally stable and uniform product. This is an engineered wood product that is a substitute for dimensional lumber.

Latewood: That part of a tree’s annual growth ring that is laid down in the latter part of the growing season.

Lumber-core plywood: Plywood where thin sheets of veneer are glued to a core of narrow boards.

Lumber-core plywood differs from regular plywood in that regular plywood is made up of successive layers of alternating grain veneer.

Lumber Grade: A system by which lumber is ranked by strength or appearance.

Machine Stress: Lumber that has been mechanically stress-graded to measure stiffness of the material. This determines the strength of a piece of wood. Engineers specify certain strength requirements when they design buildings. Machine stressed lumber has been tested to certify that the wood meets the strength requirements.

MBF: Thousand board feet.

Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF): A composite panel made from wood fibers combined with synthetic resin or other suitable binder, bonded under heat and pressure.

Micro-Lam: Engineered lumber made up of thin layers of wood. Micro-lam is used as a structural material for joists, headers, beams, etc.

MSR: Machine Stress Rated framing lumber engineered to perform under pre-defined stress conditions.

Nominal size: As applied to timber or lumber, the size by which it is known and sold in the market; often differs from the actual size. A 2x4 actually measures 1-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches.

Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Structural, multi-layer panel of compressed strands (narrow wafers) bonded with a resin under heat and pressure in a press. Strands are oriented for strength in the core and face layers.

OSB: See “Oriented Strand Board”

Oven-dry wood: Wood dried to a relatively constant weight in a ventilated oven at 102° to 105°C.

Parallam: Engineered beam composed of thin strips of wood laminated together to form a structural framing member. Used for header beams and the like.

Particleboard: Panel manufactured from wood particles bonded together with synthetic resins under heat and pressure.

Pentachlorophenol (penta): A chemical used in wood preserving; it is usually applied under pressure so that it will penetrate the wood.

Plain Sawn: A term used to describe how a piece of wood has been sawn. The log is cut with growth rings that meet the faces of the board at angles of less than 45 degrees.

Plywood: A glued wood panel made up of relatively thin layers of veneer with the grain of adjacent layers at right angles, or of veneer in combination with a core of lumber or of reconstituted wood. The usual constructions have an odd number of layers.

Plywood, cold-pressed: Refers to interior-type plywood manufactured in a press without external applications of heat.

Plywood, exterior: A general term for plywood bonded with a type of adhesive that by systematic tests and service records has proved highly resistant to weather; microorganisms; cold, hot, and boiling water; steam; and dry heat.

Plywood, interior: A general term for plywood manufactured for indoor use or in construction subjected to only temporary moisture. The adhesive used may be interior, intermediate, or exterior.

Plywood, marine: Plywood panels manufactured with the same glueline durability requirements as other exterior-type panels but with more restrictive veneer quality requirements.

Random lengths (RL): Lumber of various lengths, usually in even two-foot increments. Lumber offered as random length will contain a variety of lengths which can vary greatly between manufacturers and species. A random length loading is presumed to contain a fair representation of the lengths being produced by a specific manufacturer.

Quarter Sawn: A term used to describe a piece of wood that has been cut from a log with growth rings between 60 and 90 degrees to the faces of the board.

S1S2E: Surfaced one side and two edges.

S4S: Stands for “Surfaced 4 Sides.” This term refers to a board that has been milled on all four faces so that opposing faces are parallel to each other.

Seasoning: Drying timber to moisture content appropriate to the conditions and purposes for which it is to be used.

Select structural: The highest grade of structural joists and planks. This grade is applied to lumber of high quality in terms of appearance, strength, and stiffness.

Select tight knot (STK): A grade term frequently used for cedar lumber. Lumber designated STK is selected from mill run for the tight knots in each piece, as differentiated from lumber which may contain loose knots or knotholes.

SPF Stud: Spruce-Pine-Fir is a commercial softwood grade of 2x4 used for framing. They are available in lengths from 8 to 10 feet.

Spruce-Pine-Fir (SPF): Canadian woods of similar characteristics that are grouped as one lumber type for production and marketing purposes. Kiln-dried SPF lumber is used as a structural framing material in all types of residential, commercial, industrial and agricultural building applications. SPF species range in color from white to pale yellow.

Steam Bending: The process of “bending” or shaping boards into curved pieces by exposing them to steam (The steam softens the fibers and allows the wood to be shaped using preformed templates and clamps.)

SYP (Southern Yellow Pine): A species group, composed primarily of Loblolly, Longleaf, Shortleaf, and Slash Pines. Various subspecies also are included in the group.

Truss: An engineered building component made up of dimensional lumber formed into a rigid unit. Trusses are used in roofing to form rafters and ceiling joists. Trusses are also used in creating floor joists.

Veneer: A thin layer or sheet of wood.

Waferboard: Structural panels of compressed wafers bonded with resin under heat and pressure in a press. The wafers, or flakes, are either randomly or directionally oriented.

Wane: A defect in lumber characterized by bark or a lack of wood at a corner or ledge.

Warp: Any deviation from a true or plane surface in a board.

*ORDERING ALERT*

1. Order windows, skylights (if applicable), exterior door units, exterior decorative columns. Coordinate the delivery date with the framing carpenter. Order time could be 1 to 3 weeks. (Ref page 78 “windows” and page 79 “exterior doors” “skylights”)

2. Order hurricane straps and clips (seismic fasteners). Order time could be 3 to 5 days depending upon the type and quantity of fasteners selected. (Ref page 281 “hurricane straps and clips”)

Structural light framing-grade lumber comes in four sub-grades, in descending order of bending strength: select structural (67 percent), usually called “select” by lumbermen; 1 (55 percent); 2 (45 percent); and 3 (26 percent). Those without special construction needs beyond normal balloon-frame construction (wood studs on 16-inch centers) will not need select structural-grade; some builders use it where it will show because it has few knots, a straight grain, and looks good.

Let me give you an example. In the South, we have an abundance of Southern yellow pine, which is a very strong lumber. In other areas of the country, the builder may use Douglas fir, which is the strongest structural lumber. Other species such as Ponderosa pine, larch, and spruce can be used in structural applications. Structural framing lumber is graded 1-2-3, with #1 grade being the most expensive and #3 grade the least expensive. Most builders are using a #2 grade lumber, which is very strong. A number of builders today use #3 grades versus #2 in the construction of their homes. Special framing considerations may require for #1 grade but will not be used for general construction.

That begs the question, why use it if it is not as good of quality? The answer is cost: #3 grade lumber is cheaper than #2 grade. It is one of the tricks that builders can use to reduce the cost of construction. Another trick they can pull is to space the lumber farther apart than normal. We are not talking about nickel and dime savings. We are talking about a builder potentially saving thousands of dollars in one home. I do not have any problem with a builder doing these things if their customer knows about it and is okay with it. Worse yet, is if a builder charged the customer for better lumber but switched it without the customer’s knowledge, then at very least it’s deceptive. Most customers would not know they’ve been ripped off. Make a point of looking on the lumber for the grading stamp, as it will say #2 or #3. Let’s have a discussion on another way of saving costs, and that is the spacing of the framing elements. In custom home construction, it is customary to space the framing members at 16 inches on center maximum spacing. It is not out of the realm of possibilities that the builder may space the framing members at 19 5/16-inch or 24-inches on center. Once again, if the customer is aware of this, I’m okay with it. If the builder charged the customer for closer spaced framing members and switched it without the customer’s knowledge then it’s also deceptive. You can clearly understand the money that could be saved by just altering the grade and spacing of the lumber.

Then we have the issue of moisture content. The less moisture in the lumber, the more stable it is. You want your construction lumber to be kiln dried. The process of putting the lumber in a kiln and heating it reduces the moisture content of the lumber to a maximum of 19%.

You will, in certain situations require the use of treated lumber. It may be necessitated for building a fence, boat dock, gazebo, wood deck, or other viable project. As an added piece of knowledge, treated lumber is produced in the following manner. Lumber is placed in a pressure chamber. The chemical, which in many cases is chromium copper arsenate, is injected under pressure into the lumber for various lengths of time. The basis for grading is how many pounds of chemical are injected into one cubic foot of lumber. The grading use for pounds per cubic foot of chemical injection is as follows:

Lumber treated with .25 pounds per cubic foot is suitable for aboveground use only.

Lumber treated with .40 pounds per cubic foot is suitable for direct ground contact and above ground use.

Lumber treated with .60 pounds per cubic foot is suitable for direct fresh water immersion and all the previous uses.

Lumber treated with 2.50 pounds per cubic foot is suitable for direct salt water immersion and all the previous uses.

The more chemical that is injected, the more expensive it is.

If you buy lumber for example in Home Depot or Lowe’s you’ll see a plastic tag stapled to one end that describes the optimum use of the lumber.

Your job as the supervisor is to make sure that the carpenter is using the material that was ordered for a particular phase of work. Framing carpenters are notorious for wasting lumber because they do not have to pay for it. Do not deliver any more lumber to the job site than they can use in a week. You need to minimize your theft exposure. Material like plywood needs to be protected from rain.

Supervision checklist for all framing material:

*Is all the lumber properly graded and sized for its purpose and span?

*Is the material that was delivered the same as the material that was on the specifications and approved plans? For example, if the specs called for plywood roof decking and they deliver OSB board, this is an obvious error. Have the lumber company deliver what they were supposed to and take the OSB back to the yard.

*Is the carpenter using the material for what it was intended for? This goes back to what we were saying before. They do not have to buy it, so they will use what is at hand. For example, if the carpenter is using 2x12s for framing a ceiling, but he should have been using 2x10s, he is using the wrong material. Now you are probably going to be short 2x12s somewhere else. It is up to you to get him back on track.

*Is the carpenter wasting any material? The general rule in framing is if it is two feet or longer, it can be used somewhere in the house.

Maybe it can be used for fire blocking, deadwood, or pressure blocks.

*Are materials that are vulnerable to delamination or warping protected from the weather? If you know there’s bad weather coming, then cover up this kind of material.

*Are you protecting the material as much as possible from theft?

FLOOR FRAMING-subcategory of framing

If you are building on a basement or pier-and-beam foundation, this will be you first framing operation. Start it off right and continue the habit of good supervision all the way to the end. Familiarize yourself with the glossary of terms. This needs to become a habit.

GLOSSARY OF FLOOR-FRAMING TERMS

Band joists: joists that run outside of the floor platform (See “platform framing.”)

Beam: any horizontal structural member, supported at each end that supports a load

Bridging: a run of 1 x 4 pieces of wood, solid blocks of wood, or metal strapping placed in an X-pattern between the floor joists at mid-span (or every eight lineal feet, whichever applies) to prevent the joists from twisting and squeaking

Cantilevered joists: floor joists that extend beyond an exterior wall to create a deck or porch without the need of support posts (The general framing formula is for every one foot that the joist is extended out, three feet need to be inside. This is the one exception where the crown in the joist is placed down instead of up.)

Crown: the upward bow along the length of a board (Deck, joist, and rafter boards are set on end with the crown up. Over time, the crown will sag and the board will straighten. The exception to this is in a cantilevered situation. See “cantilevered joist.”)

Deflection: the downward bending of a horizontal framing member that exceeds straight (Some deflection is allowable in house framing. See “deflection tables.”)

Expansion joint: a gap between pieces of plywood to allow for swelling or expansion

Girder: a larger beam of wood or steel used to support joists at points along its span

Flitch beam: a beam that is constructed of lumber and reinforced with a steel plate (which is as wide as the beam) that is bolted the entire length of the beam

Floor decking: the lumber that forms the floor surface (Decking fastens directly to the floor joists. This decking could be constructed of plywood or 2’ x 6’ tongue-and-groove boards. In both cases, the decking should be glued to the floor joists and glued to each other with construction adhesive. This eliminates potential squeaking.)

Floor joists: the subfloor framing members that support the floor span, usually made of 2’ x 8’ (or larger) lumber

Floor truss: an engineered manufactured floor support member (This truss has internal support members called webs. The openings in the floor truss provide access for ductwork, plumbing, and electrical installations.)

Glulam beam: an engineered wood beam that is composed of laminated lumber (Each layer of lumber is glued under pressure. This is a very commonly used beam in homes. It is extremely strong.)

Joist: a parallel framing member installed horizontally to support floor and ceiling loads

Joist hangers: metal brackets designed to hold joist ends (Using hangers are usually faster and easier than toe nailing joists.)

Ledger board/strip: a strip of lumber face-nailed to a beam, girder, or rim joist on which the floor joists hang or rest for support

On center (OC): a term used to define the spacing between studs, joists, rafters, etc. (Measurements are taken from the center of one member to the center of the adjacent member.)

Platform framing: the technique used most often today for building homes (A complete platform is constructed for each floor. Walls are constructed separately and raised into place on each platform.)

Pressure blocks: blocks of wood that are nailed tightly in between joists, then the blocks are face-nailed to the support beam (This technique is an accepted substitute for using joist hangers in certain situations.)

Subfloor: boards or plywood installed over joists on which the finish floor is laid

TJI joists (truss joist I beam): engineered joists that are shaped like an “I” beam, constructed of OSB (oriented strand board) panels of various widths, and dadoed into strips of laminated lumber (They can be used for the construction of floors, walls, and roofs.)

Trusses: engineered, manufactured roof or floor support members

Figure 312-Installing joist and beam hangers

Figure 313-Floor framing with TJI joists

Figure 314-Conventional floor framing

Figure 315-Floor framing with engineered trusses

Supervision checklist for floor framing:

*Is the material being used what was called for in the specifications? All the lumber should be properly graded and sized for load purpose and span.

*Do all fabricated wood I-joists have designations that comply with what’s in the approved plans per IRC R502.1.4?

*Are the floor joists connected to other framing members per IRC R502.9? Joist hangers or other type of anchoring device may be required.

*Is the proper grade of lumber used per the approved plans and IRC Section R502.1? Load-bearing dimensional lumber for joist, beams, and girders shall be identified by a grade mark or inspection agency that has been approved.

*Are the joists being installed according to the approved framing plan per IRC Section 501? This includes the joist layout, selection, and installation. This also means that openings in the floor framing are where they are supposed to be, including chase, elevator, and stairwell openings.

*Is the carpenter adhering to the fastening schedule IRC R602.3 (1)?

*Do the joists comply with the span and loading conditions per IRC table R502.3.1 (1)? Floor joists in habitable rooms should be designed to support at least 40 pounds per square foot.

*Is there at least 1 ½-inches of bearing support at each end of the floor joist?

*Do the joists have a minimum overlap of 3-inches were they meet over a wall or beam?

*Have joists been cut or notched in compliance with IRC R502.8? Joists cannot be notched in the center 1/3 of the length of the joist. A notch cannot be cut deeper than 1/6 of the actual depth of the joist (1/4 at the ends.) A notch cannot be cut wider than a dimension that doesn’t exceed 1/3 of the actual depth of the joist.

*Have any holes that have been drilled through the joist in compliance with IRC R502.8? Holes in joists, rafters, and beams cannot exceed 1/3 the actual depth of the member in diameter. The edge of the holes have to be located at least 2-inches from the top or bottom edge of the member. Holes must be positioned at least 2 inches away from any other hole or notch. Cuts, notches, and holes in engineered wood framing members are prohibited unless permitted by the manufacturer’s recommendations or part of a specific designed alteration by a registered design professional.

*Has any required fire blocking been installed per IRC Section R302.11?

*Are the joists straight? If they have a crown in them, the crown is always turned up except in the case of a cantilevered joist.

*Have any required bracing and blocking been installed? Blocking or bridging needs to be installed every 8 lineal feet along the joist.

*Have the joists under parallel bearing partitions been doubled?

*Are any required joist hangers or beam hangers installed? The hangers should be fastened with the proper hanger nails.

*Have any required hanger inspections been completed and approved?

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

SUPPORT STEEL-subcategory of framing

You, as the supervisor, need to make sure that any structural steel support has been ordered for the job. This could include such things as basement beams and lally columns or support posts for porch beams.

Figure 316-Steel “H” beam

Figure 317-Steel support (Lally) column

Disregard the reference to Note 5 in the illustration

Figure 318-Steel support column for a porch beam

*Note-In homebuilding there can be many different types of support steel applications. It’s important to remember that the steel is rated for the load that it is intended to support.

There are many occasions that special steel fabrication is necessary. This could involve considerable make-up time.

FLOOR DECKING-subcategory of framing

This part of the framing goes pretty fast, so you need to stay alert and watch out for the issues I outline below. Here are a few decking terms that you will pick up.

GLOSSARY OF FLOOR-DECKING TERMS

Construction adhesive: a term used for the primary glue that bonds the decking material to the joists

Plywood: a common decking material that comes in various thicknesses for different applications

Decking: the process of covering up the joists

Nail pattern: the correct spacing of nails when fastening the decking to the joist

Tongue and groove: a joint made by a tongued edge of a board or structural panel that fits into a groove of an adjoining board or structural panel

Installing a subfloor over floor joists can be accomplished by using one of several different materials.

One way is to install sheets of plywood. The best plywood is 1 1/8-inch-thick tongue-and-groove sturdi-floor. When laying this product, care should be taken to install a heavy bead of construction adhesive on the joists first. Install the plywood over the adhesive and nail at every joist with a nail pattern of approximately six inches apart. When you install the next sheet to interlock with the first, install a heavy bead of construction adhesive along the tongue before inserting it into the adjoining groove. All nails that missed embedding into the joist and are touching the side of the joist should be removed. This will eliminate any possibility of the nail sliding against the joist as the flooring flexes, causing a squeak.

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Figure 319-Installing plywood floor decking

The next product you can install is 2’ x 6’ tongue-and-groove boards. These are a #2 grade. The installation process is the same as plywood. The boards are face-nailed with each nail within one inch of the edge. Nail the board at every joist. Once again, you need to remove the nails that did not embed properly into the joists.

Figure 320- 2’ x 6’ installed as subfloor

Supervision checklist for floor decking:

*Is the material being used that was called for in the specifications?

*Does the material look sound and intact? Any plywood that looks like it has some delaminating or any boards that are warped, split, or otherwise considered not acceptable will be culled out and replaced.

*Is the carpenter using enough construction adhesive on the joists? They have a tendency to want to smear the adhesive on instead of laying a bead about the diameter of a pencil.

*Is there a sufficient expansion joint between sheets? There should be a 1/8-inch gap between the long edges of the sheets. There should be a 1/16-inch gap between the ends of the sheets where they break on a joist.

*Is the carpenter adhering to the fastening schedule IRC R602.3 (1)? 1 1/8 – 1/1/4-inch subfloor shall be nailed with 8d deformed nails or 10d common nails. The nailing pattern is 6-inches on the edges and 12-inches in the intermediate area (field). The edge nails should be within one inch of the edge. For 2’ x 6’ boards, there should be two nails at every joist. Each nail should be within one inch of the edge.

*Have the nails that did not embed properly into the joist been removed? This helps prevent squeaking in the future.

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

27-HURRICANE STRAPS AND CLIPS-subcategory of framing

As we have seen in past hurricane seasons, homes are not always built to withstand a major storm. Hurricane Katrina in 2005 was one of the deadliest and costliest hurricanes in U.S. history. Homes and buildings were severely damaged, if not destroyed, leaving thousands of families displaced. It will take years for communities to rebuild and recover from such devastation.

Fortunately, there are solutions that can help protect your home from a hurricane or high-wind event. Building your home to meet or exceed code requirements can have a significant impact on whether your home withstands the next big storm. Many parts of the country follow the International Building Code, which establishes and governs design standards for new home construction. If properly enforced, these codes help strengthen homes and protect them from storm damage.

Just like your home, it is important to make sure your deck is built right. The number of deck collapses has increased in recent years. Since 1999, there have been more than 850 reported injuries and 20 deaths as a result of deck failures.

If you are building a deck or have an existing deck, you should know how to evaluate its construction to make sure it is structurally sound and safe. Using the proper structural connectors and fasteners (like nails and screws) as well as regular maintenance are the keys to a safe, strong deck. We invite you to learn more about how to make your deck safe.

Observe in the photos below structural failure due to lack of proper windstorm resistance straps, clips and proper anchoring techniques

Figure 321-Example of failure caused by wind

Figure 322-Example of failure cause by construction deficiency

Install hurricane straps tied to load-bearing components. If you install hurricane straps on non-load-bearing lumber, you will do nothing to increase the disaster resistance of the house. Tie them to loadbearing walls or bracing instead. Use hurricane straps that wrap over the top of the roof truss or rafter. Each part of a wall assembly should be strapped together or anchored from the foundation to the roof to provide a continuous load path, effectively connecting the roof to the foundation.

The diagrams show a few of the many different fasteners for various framing configurations offered by the Simpson Strong Tie Corp. For more information on proper installation techniques, visit strongtie.com and order the fastener catalog.

Figure 323-Examples of hurricane straps and clips

Supervision checklist for hurricane straps and clips installation:

*Are the correct fasteners being installed for the planned load?

*Are the fasteners being installed in the right locations?

*Are the clips and straps being installed with the proper nails? You should be using a joist hanger nail, not framing nails or roofing nails.

*Is a continuous roof-to-foundation path of connected fasteners being created?

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

WALL FRAMING-subcategory of framing

If you are building on a slab foundation, this will be your first framing operation. There are many details associated with wall framing. Learn the terms and be alert. You are doing well so far!

GLOSSARY OF WALL-FRAMING TERMS

Anchor bolt: steel bolts, generally ½ inch in diameter, that fastens sills, columns, or beams to the foundation—embedded into the concrete approximately 7 inches

Arched opening: an opening that the carpenter fabricates that has a radius at the top, generally made with plywood and 2’ x 4’ blocks

Balloon framing: type of framing where the studs are continuous from foundation sill to the roofline (This type of framing is uncommon in home construction. See platform framing.)

Bay window: window framing that projects outward from the exterior wall

Bearing wall: a wall or partition that supports part of the weight of the structure

Bottom plate (sole plate): the bottom, horizontal structural member of a stud-framed wall (The bottom plate sits on the subfloor, nails through the subfloor and into the floor joists. Note: This plate may also be the sill plate. If this plate is sitting on a concrete slab, then it must be made out of pressure-treated lumber.)

Cap plate: the upper plate that sits on the top plate (See picture.)

Channel: the marked location on a wall where another wall intersects it

Chase wall: a framing void formed by a double wall, used primarily for containing piping or ductwork

Corner braces: diagonal braces placed to the corners of framed walls to stiffen them and provide extra strength (Solid sheets of CDX plywood or OSB can be used in lieu of the diagonal bracing.) The best bracing technique is to sheath the entire home with CDX or OSB versus just the corners.

Corner post: the set of wall studs and/or spacer blocks that make an interior nailing surface for drywall at a framed corner

Firestopping: blocks of wood that are nailed between studs or joists at strategic locations, used for retarding the spread of fire, heat, or hot gases

Firewall: an assembly of framing and fire-rated sheetrock that retards the spread of fire between living spaces and hazardous areas, such as an attached garage

Header: a beam placed horizontally above doors, windows, or other openings to carry the weight of structural loads

King stud: a full-length wall stud fastened to a door or window trimmer

Kneewall: a short wall, anywhere from one to about four feet high (This wall has multiple framing applications. It can be used for elevating a roof, providing support for attic rafters, and as a base frame for kitchen peninsular bar top.)

Let-in bracing: diagonal wood bracing that is let-in (notched) into the studs so that the face of the bracing is flush with the edge of the studs, usually constructed of 1’ x 4’s

Load-bearing wall: a wall that supports structural weight above it as well as overlapped or butted ceiling or floor joists running above it

Niche: recesses or hollows built into a wall, usually framed into a foyer wall for artwork and often have arched-top openings

Non-load-bearing wall: a wall that supports no load other than its own weight

On center (OC): a term used to define the spacing between studs, joists, rafters, etc. (Measurements are taken from the center of one member to the center of the adjacent member.)

Plumb: when walls are vertical and perfectly perpendicular to a level surface

Pocket door: a door that slides into an opening in the wall (Special consideration must be given to the proper size of the rough opening and the locations of electrical and plumbing installations. Both sides of the rough opening must be exactly plumb or the door may rub on the frame later.)

Partition: an interior wall for dividing rooms from each other

Reglet: a groove in a wall to receive flashing

Rough openings (RO): the framed-in openings that will have doors, windows, etc. installed in them

Sill: the piece of structural wood forming the bottom edge of a window opening

Sole plate: the horizontal wood member that is anchored to the foundation (pressure-treated) and provides a nailing surface for joists or studs placed on it

Spacer blocks: short 2’ x 4’ or 2’ x 6’ blocks nailed to corner studs to form a corner post

Stick framing: the term used for assembling framing one member at a time

Stud: a 2’ x 4’ or 2’ x 6’ vertical framing member used to construct walls and partitions

Toe nailing: the technique of nailing at an angle

Top plate: the top horizontal framing member of a framed wall that is nailed directly to the end of the studs (under the cap plate)

Trimmer: studs that support a header or beam

The framing carpenters will start by laying out the walls on the basement deck or concrete slab. This is referred to as popping lines or snapping lines. The supervisor needs to be available in case of a discrepancy in a dimension. Maybe a plumbing stub-up is in the wrong location. Decisions will have to be made by the supervisor. The material that is to be used for framing walls, joists, rafters, etc. will be spelled out in the framing specifications. Wherever windows, doors, or other openings occur along a wall, the regular studs are eliminated. Instead, a small beam, called a header, spans across the top of the opening, bridging the gap.

Figure 324-Illustration of wall framing with door opening

Figure 325-Illustration of wall framing with window opening

Supervision checklist for wall framing:

*Is the material being used that was called for in the approved plans?

*Are the walls as they are laid out going to coincide with the framing plans?

*Are the plumbing walls (2’ x 6’) laid out where they should be?

*If you are building on a slab, are all the bottom plates constructed of treated lumber?

*Are all the anchor bolts secured to the bottom plate?

*Are the window and exterior door openings in the right locations? These can be checked with a tape measure. All openings are measured to the center. There will be dimensions on the framing plan.

*Have you discussed the header heights and jack stud requirements of windows and doors with the carpenter before starting? Header heights may vary for a specific reason. Never assume that they are all going to be the same.
Header heights need to be checked with a tape measure.

*Is the carpenter adhering to the fastening schedule IRC R602.3 (1)? Studs should be toe nailed to the bottom plate with 3-8d or 2-16d nails.

*Are the wall studs spaced per plan?

*Are the headers, lintels, girders, and beams sized correctly for the span and anticipated load per IRC tables 502.5 (1) (2) and R602.7.1? This is very important because it directly affects the number of jack studs (trimmers) required to support these framing members.

*Are the double top plates installed correctly? When installing the double top plate, any joints in the lower plate must break over a stud. The cap plate does not but does need to overlap the adjoining bottom plate at corners and intersection.

*Are any end joints in the top and bottom plates staggered at least 24-inches?

*Are the studs making full contact with the bottom and top plate? If necessary, install scab blocks on each side of the stud to close the gaps. The blocks will be approximately three feet in length each.

*Are the walls plumb? Inspect using a six-foot level. The most major concern is going to be the high-profile walls. These will be the walls that will be the most noticeable.

*Are wall intersections and corners connected correctly per IRC Figure R602.10.4 (1)?

*Are any of the studs bowed out too much? Studs can be bowed about ¼ of an inch without any problem. Take a straight piece of 2’ x 4’ about 8 to 12 feet long, and place it horizontally on edge across the studs. If the 2’ x 4’ rocks on a stud that may be protruding more than approximately ¼ of an inch, then that stud will probably have to be removed and replaced. This is easy to do at this stage. We’ll talk about other remedial actions later.

*Are holes and notches in the studs in compliance with IRC Section R602.6 and Figure R602.6 (1)? In the exterior and load bearing walls, drilled holes cannot exceed 40% of the stud depth with the edge of the hole a minimum of 5/8-inch from the edge of the stud. Notches must not exceed 25% of the stud depth. In interior nonbearing walls, drilled holes cannot exceed 60% of the stud depth with the edge of the hole a minimum of 5/8-inch from the edge of the stud. Notches must not exceed 40% of stud depth.

*Are the rough openings for the windows and all doors the right size? Inspect with a tape measure.
Let’s start off by talking about rough openings for windows.
The rough opening for an aluminum or vinyl window will be the same dimensions as the call size of the windows. For example, the call size of a 3060 vinyl or aluminum window is 3060. The width of the window is always the first two numbers; the height of the window is the last two numbers. In theory, this is a 3’ x 6’ window. In reality, the windows are actually constructed one inch undersized in both width and height. With other windows—like a wood window, for instance—the manufacturer may need to supply the rough opening sizes. It is possible that the RO sizes may have been inserted in the window schedule or other location on the plan.
Let’s have some discussion about rough openings for doors. The rough opening for doors will generally be 2 ¼–2 ½ inches wider and taller than the call size of the door. For example, a 2868 door is 2’ 8” wide and 6’ 8” tall. The rough opening for this door would be 2’ 10 ¼-inches wide and 6’ 10 ¼-inches high. This allows enough room to install the door, the closure gap between the edge of the door and the jambs, and the thickness of the jambs themselves. This also leaves enough room for shimming the door unit into place. Although this is the correct opening for most doors, here are a couple of exceptions to the rules. Double-door units need an additional three inches to the width of the call size. For example, the carpenter is going to install a 3’ 0” by 6’ 8” double French door unit. The RO width is 6’ 3” and the height is 6’ 10 ¼-inches. The extra width is needed on the opening because of the ½-inch-thick astragal that is mounted to the passive door.

Let’s try this situation on for size because this gets by a lot of people. You are going to install a 3’ 0” wide by 6’ 8” tall door unit between the foyer and the study.

Automatically, you think the RO would be 3’ 2 ¼-inch wide and 6’ 10 ¼-inches high, but is it? The width of the opening is fine, but the height could be a problem. Let’s say about two to three months down the road, you are going to be installing three-quarter-inch oak flooring over 2’ x 4’ boards glued to the slab. That represents a total thickness of flooring to be 2 ¼-inches thick. If the framing carpenter had framed in the RO at 6’ 10 ¼-inch high, we would definitely have a problem. Now keep this in mind, the walls at this point are sheetrocked and the trim carpenter is there to install that door unit. Shazzam! The door does not fit in the opening. The trim carpenter says, “No problem, I will just take out my trusty saw and cut about two inches or so off the bottom of the door header.” Not so fast! What if the header is load bearing and to cut it would weaken it? Now the sheetrock would have to be removed around the door opening on both sides. The trim carpenter does not normally do this kind of work, so the framing carpenter may have to come back to the job, tear out the framed opening, and build a new one. Then the drywall contractor would have to come back and repair the sheetrock. It really became a screwed-up mess, didn’t it? This dilemma was not necessary. The supervisor just needed to do his job. Before the job begins, the supervisor needs to familiarize himself with the plan, including details, such as floor finishes, that may affect the RO.

*Are support columns and posts installed per approved plans and properly anchored to the foundation and beams per IRC Section R407.3? The columns shall be restrained to prevent lateral displacement at the bottom end. Wood columns shall not be less than 4-inches by 4-inches. Steel columns shall not be less than 3-inches in diameter.

*Is there adequate temporary bracing to support the walls?

*If there’s going to be an elevator, is the opening, and the walls around the opening, framed in at the correct size?

*Is the framing in the elevator shaft in compliance with the elevator-framing instructions?

*Has all the fire blocking in the studs been installed per IRC R302.11and IRC 602.8? Fire blocking is required every framed wall, including in concealed spaces, interconnections, and in openings for vents, ducts, cables, and wires.

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

As you can see, there is a lot more to supervising than meets the eye. If you do not catch these kinds of problems early in the game, when are you supposed to catch them? Believe me, I know this answer, and it is not fun.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule any special roofing contractor other than composition shingles such as standing seam, fiberglass, tile, slate, wood shakes, etc. This may take weeks. If it was determined during the design and drawing process that the house was going to have heavy roofing material such as concrete tiles, or slate etc. then the size of the roof framing should have been increased in order to handle the additional load. (Ref page 92 item #35)

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order second load of framing lumber with housewrap. Coordinate the delivery date with the framing carpenter.

STAIR FRAMING-subcategory of framing

This can be one of the hardest things to do in house framing. The concept is simple enough. Provide a means of getting from one floor level to another with equal steps. The execution can be flawed, as you will see in the following discussion.

First, let’s provide you with a list of stair terms. These terms will make it possible for you to converse with the framing carpenter. You will learn other terms later for the finishing aspects of the stairs when dealing with the finish trim carpenter. This glossary will help you in the critique and supervision of stair construction.

GLOSSARY OF STAIR TERMS

Flight: an uninterrupted series of steps

Floating stairs: a flight of stairs with nothing underneath (The risers are typically missing as well to emphasize the open effect. There may be only one stringer or the stringers otherwise minimized. Where building codes allow, there may not even be handrails.)

Kicker plate: generally a 2’ x 4’ that is anchored to the floor at the bottom of the stairs (The stair stringers are secured to the kicker plate to keep them from kicking out.)

Landing (platform): the area of a floor near the top or bottom step of a staircase (An intermediate landing is a small platform that is built as part of the stair between main floor levels and is typically used to allow stairs to change directions or to allow the user to rest.) A half landing is where a 180-degree change in direction is made, and a quarter landing is where a 90-degree change in direction is made— on an intermediate landing. As intermediate landings consume floor space, they can be expensive to build. However, changing the direction of the stairs allows stairs to fit where they would not otherwise or provides privacy to the upper level, as visitors downstairs cannot simply look up the stairs to the upper level due to the change in direction.)

Nosing: the part of the stair tread that protrudes out past the face of the riser, generally 1 ½ inches

Riser: the vertical support board in stair construction that supports the tread (The total vertical distance of the riser including the thickness of the tread should not exceed eight inches, although building codes will allow for it to be higher. The less it is, the more comfortable it is to walk up and down the stairs. The rough riser should always be glued to the edges of the stringer.)

Spandrel: the triangular space underneath the stairs, if there is not another flight of stairs immediately underneath (frequently used as a closet)

Staircase (stairs): the assembly of risers, treads, and stringers to form the stairs (can be straight, spiral, Lshaped, U-shaped, with a landing, or without)

Stairway: a term often reserved for the entire stairwell and staircase in combination, though often used interchangeably with “stairs” and “staircase”

Stairwell: the spatial opening, usually a vertical shaft, containing an indoor stairway, often used, by extension, as including the stairs it contains

Starting step (bullnose): the first step above the lower floor, which may be wider than the other steps and rounded (The balusters typically form a semicircle around the circumference of the rounded portion and the handrail has a horizontal spiral called a “volute” that supports the top of the balusters. Besides the cosmetic appeal, starting steps allow the balusters to form a wider, more stable base for the end of the handrail. Handrails that simply end at a post at the foot of the stairs can be less sturdy, even with a thick post. A double bullnose can be used when both sides of the stairs are open.)

Stringer (stringer board): the structural member that supports the treads and risers (There are typically three stringers, one on either side of the stairs and one in the middle of the run though the treads may be supported in other ways. Stringers on open-sided stairs are often open themselves so that the treads are visible from the side. Such stringers are called “cut” stringers. The stringers will be covered with finish material later.)

Tread: the part of the stairway that is stepped on (It is constructed to the same specifications (thickness) as any other flooring. The tread “depth” is measured from the outer edge of the step to the vertical “riser” between steps. The “width” is measured from one side to the other.)

Winders: steps that are narrower on one side than the other (They are used to change the direction of the stairs without landings. A series of winders form a circular or spiral stairway. When three steps are used to turn a 90-degree corner, the middle step is called a “kite winder” as a kite-shaped quadrilateral.)

Figure 326-Completed rough staircase

The stringer, as shown in the diagram at right, is usually made out of 2’ x 12’ boards at #2 grade. The notches represent the cutouts for treads and risers.

Figure 327-Illustration of stair stringer

We mentioned earlier the importance of designing the stairs into the floor plan first. You will need enough horizontal distance (run) to make the stairs easier to walk up and down. If your completed plans do not already reflect your desire for comfortable stairs, it is too late to change them in the field. The goal is to ultimately have equal risers when the home is complete. That sounds simple enough, but is it?

Let’s try this stair-framing example based on the sketch at above right. We’ll say that the total rise from the finished floor of the foyer in the lower level to the finished floor of the second floor level is 11’ 1 5/8.”. How did I arrive at that dimension, you ask? Let’s break it down. The ceiling height is 10 feet on the lower level, but in the rough stage it is actually 10’ 1 1/8.”. Next is the thickness of the joists. We’ll say they are 2x12s, and their actual width is 11 3/8”.

Do not forget about the thickness of the subfloor upstairs. We’ll say that is 1 1/8-inch plywood. When you add the three individual components together, you get an 11’ 1 5/8” total rise. We want comfortable stairs to walk up and down because we are not getting any younger. We’ll say that we do not want our risers to be higher than seven inches. We are going to take the total rise and divide it by seven inches using our handy-dandy Construction Master calculator. I did that and the answer is 19.09 risers. You know there’s no way you can do that, so we’ll add one more riser, making it an even 20. We’ll take our total rise dimension again, and this time, we’ll divide it by 20. Now we know that we need 20 risers to get to the second floor, and each riser is going to be exactly 6” 11/16-inches high. Did we satisfy our initial requirement of seven-inch-maximum risers? Yes, we did. Remember, if there is going to be a landing somewhere on the stairs, it is treated as if it were another tread, which it is. Even when stairs make a turn from a landing, all the riser dimensions should still be the same.

Figure 328-A stair stringer being cut from a 2x12

Let’s add one more bite to this equation. Every framing carpenter knows that when you are laying out for a set of stairs, you have to reduce the bottom riser cut in the stringer by the thickness of the tread material. In this case, we are using 2x12s for treads. The 2x12s are 1 ½-inches thick, so we’ll subtract 1 ½-inches from the bottom riser cut. Now, when you add the 2x12 tread on later, the riser will be back up to 6” 11/16-inches, and all the rest of them will be the same. Are you with me so far? This is stair layout 101.

Now try this on for size. This time it gets a little more complicated. I’m going to explain to you something that happens all the time, and it is not right. Building on this example, let’s say that, later, we are going to install stone flooring in the foyer. The finished floor is going to be one inch thick. This poses a different issue for the carpenter. The carpenter needs to be informed of the future thick flooring at the bottom of the stairs before he starts laying out the stringers. If he is aware of it, then he will add one inch to the bottom riser to compensate for the one inch that is going to be lost later when the stone is installed. Temporarily, while the home is under construction, the bottom riser is going to be one inch higher than the others. If he does not know, then later the bottom riser is going to be one inch less than all the others. That makes for a very awkward situation. You may get used to it over time, but your guests may stumble and sprain an ankle, or worse. Many of you probably are living in a home that has that very problem. I know you will not repeat that mistake again.

Whose responsibility is it to make sure the carpenter is aware of this possible problem? The answer is the supervisor. Who else is going to intercept this problem if it is not the supervisor? Do you remember what one of the skills is that we said the supervisor has to possess? He needs to know when something is being done right or wrong. Isn’t that why you hired him in the first place?

The supervisor needs to have the carpenter install additional anchor blocking at the base of the stringers where the future newel post is going to be installed. This provides a good base to be able to bolt the newel post to it.

The framing carpenter should use construction adhesive, and glue all the stair components together in addition to nailing them. This will go a long way in eliminating squeaky stairs. Just like he did with nailing down the floor decking, he needs to remove any nails that did not embed into the stringers and are still touching the stringers.

I have one last tidbit of information for you. What if the carpenter somehow screwed up the riser dimension, and one riser is going to be quite a bit different than the others? Is there something he can do to the stairs to make the correction? The answer is no. The entire staircase will have to be torn out and rebuilt.

The photo at the right shows tread guards. These are strip of 1/2 inch plywood nailed at the edge of the tread. These prevent the tread from damage while the home is under construction.

Figure 329- Photo of tread guards-Chamber’s residence

Supervision checklist for stair construction:

*Did you inform the carpenter of any potential floor thickness issues that may affect the first riser?

*Did you inform the carpenter of any finish tread material that will be applied to the rough tread? This has an immediate impact on how he builds the stairs. If carpet is going to be applied directly over the rough stairs, then the carpenter will leave the stair tread protrude over the riser about 1 ½ inches. If an oak tread is going to be installed later over the rough tread, then the carpenter does not protrude the rough tread. He also has to subtract the thickness of the finish tread material from the bottom riser. This is very important information.

*Did you ask the carpenter what dimension the risers and treads are going to be before he cuts out the stringers? The maximum riser cannot exceed 8 1/2-inches. The minimum tread depth is 10-inches.

*Are winding stair treads in compliance with IRC R311.7.5.2.1? The minimum tread depth of 10-inches at the normal walkline. The minimum tread depth is 6-inches at any point within the clear width of the stair.

*Did the carpenter reinforce the stringers to eliminate the bounce? This could be accomplished by bracing it with a knee wall in the area underneath the stairs. This area is the spandrel.

*Are the stairs at least three feet wide?

*Did the carpenter install a kicker plate?

*Will the stairs have a minimum headroom clearance of 6’ 8” as measured vertically from the nosing of the treads?

*Are the stair treads level in both directions? You do not want a situation where the stairs are tipped forward or backward. You also do not want stairs that are leaning to the left or right. Try to catch this problem early so the carpenter can tear out the stairs and start over again if he has to.

*Did the carpenter glue all the stair components together?

*Did you check all the risers with a tape measure and determine that, when the house is complete, all the risers will be the same height? Errors more than about a quarter of an inch are not acceptable.

*Are there any headroom clearance issues? Sometimes a framing plan may have an incorrect dimension that causes a problem through no fault of the carpenter. At this point, the supervisor should notify all concerned parties of the problem and a mutually agreed solution be worked out.

*Has all the required fire blocking been installed per IRC Section R302.11? Fireblocking will be installed in the spaces between the stair stringers and the walls.

*Is any enclosed accessible space under the stairs in compliance with IRC R302.7? This space shall have walls, under-stair surface and any soffits protected on the enclosed side with ½-inch drywall.

*Have all the required safety rails been installed? This includes around stairwell openings, stair railings, and balconies.

*Has the carpenter installed tread guards on the rough stairs? The tread guards are nothing more than strips of plywood nailed on the edge of the treads that keep the nosing of the treads from being damaged during construction. This can help greatly when it comes time to apply the finish materials later.

*Have any required framing inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the contractor receives his final draw.

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

CEILING FRAMING-subcategory of framing

Ceiling framing is the next order of business in your project. If you are going to have a two-story home, then the first-floor ceiling is also the floor for the second floor. Familiarize yourself with the glossary of terms.

GLOSSARY OF CEILING FRAMING TERMS

Beam ceiling: an open ceiling with exposed beams

Coffered ceiling: an elevated, flat ceiling connected to the adjacent walls with a sloped section of ceiling

Crown: the upward bow along the length of a board (Deck, joist, and rafter boards are set on end with the crown up. Over time, the crown will sag and the board will straighten. The exception to this is in a cantilevered situation. See “cantilevered joist.”)

Deflection: the downward bending of a horizontal framing member that exceeds straight (Some deflection is allowable in house framing. See deflection tables.)

Dropped beam: a load-bearing beam that is installed in a home (The bottom of the beam will be lower than the ceiling and will normally be covered with finish materials.)

Flush beam: a load-bearing beam that is installed in a home (The bottom of the beam will be flush with the ceiling joists. The beam will not be visible after the sheetrock is installed.)

Glulam beam: an engineered wood beam that is composed of laminated lumber (Each layer of lumber is glued under pressure. This is a very commonly used beam in homes. It is extremely strong.)

Joist: a parallel framing member installed horizontally to support floor and ceiling loads

Joist hangers: metal brackets designed to hold joist ends (Using hangers is usually faster and easier than toe-nailing joists.)

Ledger board: a strip of lumber face-nailed to a beam, girder, or rim joist on which ceiling joists hang or rest for support

On center (OC): a term used to define the spacing between studs, joists, rafters, etc. (measurements taken from the center of one member to the center of the adjacent member)

Pressure blocks: blocks of wood that are nailed tightly in between joists, then faced-nailed to the support beam (an accepted substitute for using joist hangers in certain situations)

Strongbacks: generally 2’ x 6’ boards that are nailed flat on top of ceiling joists, with a second 2’ x 6’ board nailed on edge into the board that is lying flat (This forms an L-shaped assembly that helps to straighten up uneven joists and spreads any weight imposed on them over a larger area. These strongbacks should be installed every eight feet apart.)

TJI joists (truss joist I-beam): engineered joists that are shaped like an I-beam (They are constructed of

OSB panels of various widths and are dadoed into strips of laminated lumber. They can be used for the construction of floors, walls, and roofs.)
Note: One of the first things the carpenter will do is install any special load-bearing support beams.
See picture below. The ceiling framing will be installed simultaneously. In the case of the picture, this is a one-story home framed with 2x6s at 16” OC. If this were going to be a two-story home, then the ceiling joists would probably be 2x12s at 16” OC It is not unusual to see floor trusses installed.
See the picture below. This would also be the floor framing for the second floor.

When using open-webbed floor trusses, it makes the installation of HVAC ductwork, plumbing, and electrical installations much easier. This is especially true if you have a second floor that completely covers the first floor. This may be the only framing option you have.

Photos of various ceiling framing configurations

Figure 330-Barrel vaulted ceiling at left

Figure 331-Flat ceiling with engineered support beam at right

Figure 332-Groin vaulted ceiling at left

Figure 333-Ceiling framing with roof trusses at right

Supervision checklist for ceiling framing:

*Is the material being used that was called for in the specifications?

*Is the carpenter adhering to the fastening schedule IRC R602.3 (1)? Ceiling joists that are attached to parallel rafters should be toe nailed to the top plate with 3-8d nails. Ceiling joists not attached to parallel rafters should be toe nailed with 3-10d nails.

*Have all special engineered beams been installed per the approved plans?

*Have all the ceiling joists been installed per the approved ceiling framing plan? This includes the direction, size, and spacing.

*Do any of the joists have defects, such as spike knots, that would prevent them from being used?

*Are any of the joists warped or bowed to the point where they could be unsupportive or sheetrock could not be installed properly?

*Are all the crowns in the joists turned up?

*Is all the pressure blocking installed?

*Are all the required joist and beam hangers installed?

*Have all the strongbacks (stiffbacks) been installed? See glossary of framing terms.

*Are the ends of the ceiling joists overlapped sufficiently where they meet over load bearing walls, or beams per IRC R802.3.2? The joists shall be lapped a minimum of 3-inches.

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

ROOF FRAMING-subcategory of framing

In most homes, roof framing is the most difficult part of framing. First of all, you are high up off the ground in a dangerous situation trying to make precision cuts with the rafter. Familiarize yourself with the roof framing terms. Keep it up, so far so good.

GLOSSARY OF ROOF-FRAMING TERMS

Bird’s mouth: the notch in a rafter that rests against the cap plate (The horizontal part of the notch is the seat cut. The vertical part of the notch is the plumb cut.)

Cathedral ceiling: a high ceiling with two sloped sides coming to a point at a ridge

Cheek cut: a side angle cut on the end of a rafter that connects to a hip rafter or valley rafter (also known as a “side cut”)

Chimney cricket: a small V-shaped structure built behind a chimney designed to divert water away

Common rafter: a rafter that is installed at 90 degrees to the ridge and cap plate, extending from the cap plate to the ridge board

Collar tie: a horizontal brace in roof framing that connects two opposing rafters

Cripple rafter: a rafter that extends from a hip rafter to a valley rafter (the most complex rafters, which are cut on both ends at 45 degrees, with these cuts facing in opposite directions to each other)

Cornice: a composite assembly at the rafter ends at the eaves consisting of the fascia board, soffit, and frieze board

Crown: the upward bow along the length of a board (Deck, joist, and rafter boards are set on end with the crown up. Over time, the crown will sag and the board will straighten. The exception to this is in a cantilevered situation. See “cantilevered joist.”)

Dormer: a framed opening in the side of a sloped roof (could have windows or vents in it and has its own roof and sidewall material)

Eave: the part of the roof that extends over the sidewalls (all are horizontal overhangs)

Expansion joint: a gap between pieces of plywood to allow for swelling or expansion

Fascia: the visible flat-finish board that caps the rafter tail ends (part of the cornice assembly)

Fly rafters: the end rafters that form the outside edge of the roof’s overhang (also known as “barge rafters”)

Framing clips and straps: special metal fastening devices for locking framing members together (also known as “hurricane” or “seismic clips”)

Frieze board: the finish board at the top of the exterior wall that trims the veneer at the cornice (another element of the cornice assembly)

Gable: the triangular end walls of a gable-roof home

Hip: the angled member of a roof that normally projects or extends up from the corner of a house to the ridge (These make up the corners and are normally on a 45-degree angle with the body of a house.)

Hip rafter: a framing member that extends from the ridge to the cap at the outside corner of two walls, with the ridge end cut plumb at 45 degrees

Jack rafter: a rafter that extends to a hip rafter or a valley rafter from a wall or ridge, with the wall or ridge end cut perpendicular and plumb, and 45 degrees and plumb at the hip or valley end

Lookouts: short, horizontal pieces of lumber used to fasten the ends of the rafter tails to the ledger board, generally used as the anchor member for the soffit material

On center (OC): a term used to define the spacing between studs, joists, rafters, etc. (measurements taken from the center of one member to the center of the adjacent member)

Pitch: the rise-to-run ratio of a roof expressed in inches of rise (vertical) to one foot of run (12 inches horizontal) (A roof with a 4–12 pitch rises 4 inches in one foot of run.)

Plywood: a piece of wood made with alternating layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue (All plywood used in rough framing should be bonded with exterior glue.)

Plywood clip: a metal device that is shaped liked the letter “H” (The clip is slid over the edges of a sheet of plywood that is installed. Another sheet of plywood is then slid into the opposite end of the clip. This provides for automatic 1/8-inch spacing between sheets.)

Purlin: a horizontal support member that is installed under and has direct contact with the rafters (The purlin is placed on its edge and will support multiple rafters at the same time. The purlins are supported by diagonal framing braces called “struts.” The struts will be bearing on a beam or a load-bearing wall. The purlin should be the same size as the material that it is supporting, e.g., 2’ x 6’ rafters – 2’ x 6’ purlins, etc. See “struts.”)

Rafters: typically a 2’ x 6’ or greater horizontal framing member used to construct roofs that connect between the cap plate and ridge board (See “common, hip, valley, jack, and cripple rafters.”)

Rake: a term for the roof overhang at the gable ends of a roof (All rakes are diagonal; all eaves are horizontal.)

Ridge board: typically a 2’ x 8’ or greater horizontal framing member used to construct roofs that extends the length of a roof, with rafters attached to it

Rafter run: the horizontal distance a rafter will span (measured from the outside of the wall to the center of the ridge—half the building width)

Rafter rise: the vertical distance a rafter that spans from where the top edge is in line (plumb) with the outside of the wall to the roof peak

Roof decking: the plywood, or OSB, panels that are normally installed over the rafters—either be 1/2 or 5/8 inch. (Using plywood clips is advisable. See “plywood clips.”)

Roof trusses: engineered, prefabricated assemblies that combine the rafter and the ceiling joist together in one component, comprised of open webs just like floor joists (can be raised into position with a crane)

Seat (seat cut): the horizontal cut portion of a rafter that sits on a cap plate

Soffit: the underside board of eaves, often vented to allow airflow through rafters into the attic (another part of the roof cornice assembly)

Span: the horizontal distance a rafter or joist will span (measured from the outside of the wall to the center of the supporting member—half the building width for rafters)

Stick framing: the term used for assembling framing one member at a time

Strut: a diagonal support for the purlins (notched out in order to cradle the purlin and bears on a loadbearing beam or wall)

Truss: engineered roof or floor support

Valley: the inward angle formed between two perpendicular roof sections (typically slopes at 45 degrees)

Valley rafter: a rafter that extends from a ridge board to the cap plate at the inside corner of two adjoining roofs, with the ridge end cut plumb at 45 degrees

*ORDERING ALERT*

1. Order any applicable cast stone, brick or stone veneers. Some of these, depending on your selection, may take weeks to get. It’s always wise to have a secondary selection in case of ordering and delivery problems. (Ref pages 99-102)

2. Order third load of framing lumber with all siding, cornice material, and roof underlayment. Coordinate the delivery schedule with the framing carpenter.

3. Order any custom window shutters and associated hardware. These may take 2 to 3 weeks to get. You may want to consider have the finish carpenter install these. (Ref page 81 “window shutters”)

Figure 334-Purlins and struts

The framing in of purlins and struts at left is wrong. Do you know why? Refer to the word purlin in the glossary. Your answer awaits you. There are two errors. Framing in a knee wall at left (can also be referred to as a pony wall)

Figure 335-Gable roof framed with trusses

Figure 336-Framing a knee wall

Figure 337-Stick framing a hip roof

By the way, in the above photo at left, there are two errors in the purlin framing. The first answer is the purlin should be on edge, not lying flat under the rafters. The second answer is that the purlins need to be the same size material of the rafters that they are supporting. Did you find them?

Figure 338-Illustration of dormer framing

.

Figure 339-Illustration of interior roof support

Supervision checklist for roof framing:

*Is all the lumber properly graded and sized for the purpose and span?

*Did you compare the actual framing with the rafter-framing plan (counts and orientation)?

*Are roof trusses being installed per the approved plan and with proper bracing?

*Has the carpenter altered any of the trusses? The trusses cannot be altered in any way.

*Is the ridge board at least the same depth as the plumb cut end of the adjoining rafters?

*Are the rafters fitting tight against the ridge or hip board? I see a lot of framing work where the carpenter miscut the rafters, and they did not fit flush against the ridge or hip. This is not good workmanship. Short of tearing out the rafters, he will need to install pressure blocks between the rafters and nail them to the ridge or hip. You will break him of that bad habit.

*Are the crowns in the rafters turned up? If some are up and some are down, you are going to wind up with waves in the roof decking. These waves will telegraph through the sheathing and roof shingles.

*Is there sufficient rafter tail length hanging over the wall that will provide for specified eave construction?

*Are the rafters spaced according to the plan?

*Are the seat cuts in the lower ends of the rafters fitting on the plates flush?

*Do any of the rafters have to be spliced? If the rafters need to be spliced, then the splice needs to bear on a purlin. The splice could be an elongated V-cut, referred to as a scissors splice, with 7/16 inch by a minimum of four-foot-long plywood/OSB gussets glued and nailed to both sides.

*If a dormer is being framed in, are the appropriate rafters being doubled per the dormer diagram above?

*Are the upper and lower headers for the dormer being framed in per the dormer diagram above?

*Are any required rafter strongbacks (purlins) and purlin bracing (struts) being installed per the support diagram above?

*Are collar ties being installed correctly per IRC R802.3.1? Collar ties will be installed in the upper third of the attic space. The collar ties will be spaced no more than 4 feet on center.

*Are the purlins supporting the rafters the same dimensional lumber as the rafters?

*Are the purlins installed on edge versus on the flat? The purlins should always be installed on edge.

*Is the spacing of the purlins no more than an eight-foot horizontal distance apart?

*Are the struts supporting the purlin at every other rafter?

*Is the angle of the struts in relationship to the ceiling joists no less than 45 degrees and no more than 60 degrees?

*Is any strut or brace over six feet in length T-blocked at least two-thirds of the length?

*Are the struts bearing on or above a load-bearing wall or beam? If they are bearing on a ceiling joist in an open ceiling, then they are being framed in wrong. If they are bearing on a strongback, that is wrong. You should stop the work until you and the carpenter, have a discussion to correct the problem. The struts cannot sit on anything except a framing member that will transfer the weight of the roof immediately to a load-bearing wall. This gets more critical when you install the weight of the shingles. Later in years, another layer of shingles will be added to the first layer, increasing the weight load. You will compound the problem more if you are in an area where you could get a heavy snow load on the roof. You do not want to transfer this aggregate point load in the middle of a ceiling, causing it to sag. The exception to this rule is in the garage. The struts can bear on a strongback.

*Have all gable walls over four feet high been reinforced with a strongback and a diagonal brace secured to a structural beam or top plate? The exception to this rule is in the garage. The diagonal gable brace can be fastened to a ceiling joist.

*Did the carpenter clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

WALL SHEATHING-subcategory of framing

The exterior wall sheathing is an important element in framing. My conversation only applies to plywood or OSB sheathing. The author is not a proponent of foam sheathing or any other materials that are not a good nail-base product.

The sheathing, first and foremost, is an excellent wind-bracing element, if installed properly. The plywood should be installed horizontally across the studs, as shown in the picture. The sheathing should totally cover the wall (minus the openings, of course) from the bottom of the bottom plate to the very top of the cap plate. The sheathing should be nailed with 8d framing nails at 6” OC on every stud. With this type of installation, you have locked all the wall components together in one operation. It is important to remember that the sheathing must jump across any joints in the components, or install hurricane straps that will.

The sheathing is also a nail-base material for some of the veneers that will be installed.

The sheathing also has some thermal value, which adds to the total composite R-value of the wall. Foam sheathings can only provide thermal value without the other two benefits. In certain climates, it can even be a problematic moisture barrier that makes it conducive for mold and mildew growth.

Figure 340-Installing ½-inch plywood sheathing on exterior walls

Supervision checklist for wall sheathing installation:

*Is the sheathing grade marked for the intended use?

*Is the sheathing being installed in compliance with the manufacturer’s instructions and per IRC tables R602.3(1)? Nail the sheathing with 8d nails 6-inches o.c. on edges and 12-inches o.c. in the field.

*Is there proper spacing between the sheets that allows for expansion of the material?

*Has the carpenter removed all the nails that missed any studs inside? This is more of a workmanship issue than structural. Whenever I see a lot of missed nails, it makes me wonder if there are enough nails that are fastened correctly.

*Has blocking been installed between the studs along the edges of the sheathing per IRC table R703.4? Exterior sheathing has to be supported on all edges.

*Is the sheathing covering the entire wall as suggested?

*Has the sheathing jumped across all joints between framing members?

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

HOUSEWRAP-subcategory of framing
Building Code Requirements for Building Sheathing Wrap

Figure 341-Photo of housewrap

The 2003 International Building Code calls for a “water-resistive barrier behind the exterior veneer” consisting of flashings and a “weather-resistant sheathing paper” lapped at least two inches horizontally and six inches vertically.

It specifies asphalt-saturated felt that weighs at least 14 pounds per square and complies with ASTM D226, which means that most unrated #15 felt paper sold at lumberyards (which weigh closer to seven pounds per square) do not comply.

Nearly all the plastic housewraps have been submitted to the model code authorities and accepted as substitutes for ASTM-rated #15 building paper. If building in an area that follows the Model Energy Code (MEC), builders must either install a “vapor-permeable housewrap” on the exterior or seal all the penetrations in the building by using some combination of polyethylene, caulks, and gaskets on the interior.

Performance Measures for Building Sheathing Wrap

What is the definition of permeance? Permeance ratings measure the rate at which water vapor passes through a material. One perm equals one grain of water vapor passing through one square foot of material per hour per inch of vapor-pressure difference. Under ASTM Standard E96, manufacturers can use either test A (dry cup) or test B (wet cup), which yield somewhat different results. Grade D building paper uses yet another standard for measuring permeance, which is roughly equivalent to a permeance rating of about 5, similar to asphalt felt materials. Plastic housewraps range in permeance from around 5 to over 50.

In general, a sheathing wrap should have a permeance of at least 5 to enable wall assemblies to dry out, should they get wet. Since common sheathing products like plywood and OSB have permeance ratings of less than one, the sheathing is more likely to interfere with drying than the sheathing wrap.

All housewraps have a tape that is used for sealing overlapped joints. Tyvek, in particular, has very specific instructions on how to install their product.

Supervision checklist for housewrap installation:

*Is the housewrap being installed per manufacturer’s instructions? Waiting until it is already installed to find out that it is wrong is not good supervision. (Read about how to install the housewrap at window openings in the next topic.)

*Have all the overlapping seams been sealed with the housewrap tape?

*Have any tears in the material been repaired and sealed with tape?

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved?

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

FIREPLACE INSERT FRAMING-subcategory of framing

*Have you checked to make sure what the rough opening dimensions are going to be for the particular model and size of insert that you will be installing? You don’t want to find out the hard way that the unit won’t fit into the opening that was framed in.

*Have you checked to make sure that the depth of the opening is sufficient for the unit to slide all the way in and still maintain proper required clearances to wood framing? The supplier can give you that information.

*Have you checked to see at what height the customer may want the fireplace to be sitting? In the picture below the finished hearth will be 12 inches off the floor.

*Have you checked to make sure that there won’t be any framing in the way that would prevent the fireplace chimney pipe from being routed properly? The carpenter may have to make alterations in order to accommodate the chimney pipe.

*If the fireplace is going to be a wood burning unit, are you going to need to have a combustion air intake kit installed? You do not want to be pulling air that you’ve already paid to have heated fueling the fire. If you don’t have separate combustion air intake, make sure you turn off the furnace prior to starting a fire in the fireplace. In the case of direct vent gas units most manufacturers have solved the combustion air issue by installing what is referred to as concentric pipe. It is double walled. The outer wall brings draws fresh air in to the unit and the inner opening emits carbon monoxide gas.

All of these framing issues need to be decided quickly enough in order for unit to be installed without problems.

Figure 342- Photo of fireplace insert rough framing-Chamber’s residence

WINDOWS-subcategory of framing

Installing windows requires attention to detail. Some of these details are very subtle and would not become readily noticeable until later in construction. Your job is to make sure that the carpenter installs the windows to your specifications, not his.

Review the glossary for window terms. It will help you identify the different aspects of windows and make you much more knowledgeable.

GLOSSARY OF WINDOW TERMS

Aluminum clad window: a window with wood construction covered with an aluminum sheet having a factory-applied finish (to provide a longer maintenance free life)

Bay window: windows that project out from the wall and extend to the ground (An angle bay window refers to the angle departure from the plane of the wall. See bow window.)

Bottom rail: the bottom horizontal member of a window sash

Bow window (compass window/radial bay window): a rounded bay window that projects from the wall in the shape of an arc, commonly consisting of five sashes (See “bay window.”)

Casement: a window sash that swings open on side hinges (In-swinging are French in origin, while out-swinging are from England.)

Casement window: a window with one or more casements

Check rail (meeting rail/lock rail): the horizontal members (of a double-hung window) that come together

Clerestory, also clearstory (highlight window): a window in the upper part of a lofty room that admits light to the center of the room

Coated glass: a window glass with an outside surface provided with a mirror-reflective surface (The shading coefficient ranges from 20% to 45%. See shading coefficient.)

Colonial windows: windows with small rectangular panes, or divided lites, designated as 12-lite, 16-lite, etc.

Combination window unit (combination storm sash and screen): a window assembly containing a half screen and two glass storm panels (sliding the lower storm sash in the frame, exposes the screen panel.)

Double-hung window: a window with two vertically moving sashes, each closing a different part of the window

Double-strength: sheet glass with a thickness between 0.115” to 0.133” (3 to 3.38mm)

Double windows (double glazing): two windows, such as a regular window, plus a storm sash (also an insulating window with air space between panes)

Double window: two windows separated by a mullion, forming a unit (also known as a “coupled window” or “mulled window”)

Drip cap: a horizontal moulding to divert water from the top casing so that the water drips beyond the outside of the frame

Extension jamb (jamb lining/jamb extender): a board used to increase the depth of the jambs of a window frame to fit a wall of any given thickness

Fixed light (fixed sash): a non-operative window (does not open)

Glazing: the installation of glass in a window opening (also the fenestration or windows)

Glazing bead (glass stop/wood stop/sill bead): a removable trim that holds the glass in place

Glazing channel: a groove cut into the sash for mounting glass

Heat-absorbing glass (tinted glass): window glass containing chemicals (with gray, bronze, or blue-green tint) that absorb light and heat radiation, and reduce glare and brightness (Shading coefficient of this glass varies from about 50% to 70%.)

Hinge: a movable joint enabling a window to swing open

Hopper light: an inward-opening sash hinged at the bottom

Horizontal sliding window: windows that slide horizontally

Insulating glass: double or triple glazing with an enclosed, dehydrated, and hermetically sealed air space between the panes (The space is commonly from 3/16” to 3/4”.)

Insulated window: a window with multiple glazing that provides one or more air spaces between layers of glazing

Jamb: a vertical member at the side of the window frame (also refers to the horizontal member at the top of the window frame, as in head jamb and window jamb)

Jamb depth: the width of the window frame from inside to outside

Latch (catch/lock): a device that holds a window shut, such as the latch at the meeting rail of a double-hung window or one mounted on the stile of casement windows, often referred to as a lock

Lead light (lead glazing/stained glass): window with small panes of glass set in grooved rods of cast lead, or came (The glass can be clear, color, or stained.)

Lite (light): a pane of glass within a window (Double-hung windows are designated by the number of lights in upper and lower sash, as in six over six.)

Lock: a fastening device in which a bolt is secured and can be operated by a key (commonly used to refer to latches or catches)

Lock rail: see meeting rail

Lock stile: the vertical member (stile) of a casement sash that closes against the surrounding frame

Low-emissivity coating (low-e): coating for glass surfaces that reflects radiant heat energy rather than allowing that energy to radiate through the glass surface (The lower the emissivity of the glass, the lower the heat transfer coefficient.)

Lunette: a crescent-shaped window framed by moldings or an arch

Meeting rail (lock rail): one of the two horizontal members of a double-hung sash that come together

Mullion: the vertical member between window units

Muntin (sash bar/window bar/glazing bar): a secondary frame member (horizontal, vertical, or slanted) to hold the windowpanes in the sash (often confused with mullion)

Muntin grilles: removable wood, plastic, or metal grills

Multi-lite sash: a sash divided into many lites

Obscure glass (vision-proof glass): any textured glass (frosted, etched, fluted, ground, etc.) that will be used for privacy, light diffusion, or decorative effects

Pane: a sheet of glass for glazing a window (After installation, the pane is referred to as a lite or window lite.)

Parting bead (parting strip/parting stop): a vertical strip on each jamb that separates the sashes of a double-hung window

Patterned glass: one or both surfaces of glass with a rolled design (used for privacy and light diffusion)

Picture window: large fixed windows

Prime sash: the balanced or moving sash of a window unit

Prime window: a window with single or multiple glazing to which a storm sash may be installed

Rail (head rail/top rail/bottom rail/meeting rail): a horizontal member of a window sash

Reflective glass: window glass that is coated to reflect radiation striking the surface of the glass

R-value (thermal resistance): a measure of resistance to heat flow of a material or construction (A higher value indicates a better heat insulating property. The R-value of an ordinary single-pane sash with a 15 mph wind on one side is about 0.9.)

Safety glass: a strengthened or reinforced glass that is less subject to breakage or splintering, such as glass for storm doors and some windows

Sash (window sash): framework of stiles and rails in which the lites of a window are set

Sash and frame: a window and its casing frame

Sash balance: a device for counterbalancing a sash of a double-hung window to hold it in the up position

Sash stop: a moulding that covers the joint between window sash and the jamb

Shading coefficient: a decimal value that is the solar gain of a window, divided by the solar gain for a clear single-glass window of the same size (The shading coefficient of clear, double glazing is about 0.85 to 0.9.)

Shatter-proof glass (laminated glass): two sheets of glass with a transparent plastic sheet sandwiched between to form a pane resistant to shattering

Sidelite (margin lite): a fixed, often narrow, glass window next to a door opening (or window)

Single-hung window: a window that is similar to a double-hung window except that the top sash is stationary

Single-strength glass: glass with thickness between 0.085” to 0.100” (2.16 mm to 2.57 mm)

Sliding sash (sliding windows): a window that moves horizontally in grooves or tracks

Sound-insulating glass (sound-resistive glass): double glass fixed on resilient mountings and separated so as to reduce sound transmission

Spring bolt: a fastener for holding the sash in a fixed location by means of a spring-loaded bolt in the stile entering a hole in the jamb

Stained-glass window: a window with a painted scene or pattern that has been fired into the glass

(Windows with plain colored glass set in lead are also called “stained glass.”)

Stationary sash: a fixed sash (also referred to as a picture, studio, vista, or view sash)

Stile: the vertical-edge members of a window sash

Stool: a shelf-like board of the interior part of the windowsill, against which the bottom rail of the sash closes

Stop (bead stop/side stop/window stop/parting stop): the moulding on the inside of the window frame against which the window sash closes, or in the case of a double-hung window, the sash slides against the stop

Storm sash (storm window): an extra window on the outside to protect an existing window, but mainly to increase the thermal resistance of the window

Sweep lock: a sash fastener located at the meeting rails of a double-hung window, which rotates and clamps the two rails closer together

Tempered glass: special heat-treated, high-strength safety glass that shatters into pebble-sized particles but not into slivers

Thermal barrier (thermal break): a material of high thermal resistance placed between two metal sashes or installed between adjoining metal framing of metal windows in order to reduce thermal conduction from indoors to outdoors

Transom (transom bar): a horizontal member separating a door from a window panel above the door or separating one window above another

Transom lite (transom window): the window sash located above a door

Triple glazing: three panes of glass with two air spaces between, commonly consisting of an insulating glass with a separate storm sash (also available as an insulating window in a single frame)

Ultraviolet radiation: extremely short wavelength of invisible radiation, which is a component of solar radiation, and merges into the visible spectrum (attributed as a source of skin sunburn and color fading of draperies and carpeting)

U-value: indicates the rate of heat flow through a building construction, expressed in units of Btu per square foot of surface per degree F (difference between indoor and outdoor air temperature that is numerically equal to the inverse of the sum of R-values for the construction)

Vertical sliding window: a window with one or more sashes that move in a vertical direction

Weatherstrip: a strip of resilient material for covering the joint between the window sash and frame in order to reduce air leaks and prevent water from entering the structure

Weathertight: sealed to prevent entry of air and precipitation into the structure

Weephole: small holes drilled along the bottom edge of storm sash or combination storm screens to permit moisture condensation or wind-driven rain to drain away from the sill to the outdoors

Window: a glazed opening in an external wall; an entire unit consisting of a frame, sash and glazing, and any operable elements

Window frame: the fixed frame of a window, which holds the sash or casement as well as hardware

Window hardware: various devices and mechanisms for the window, including catches, cords and chains, fasteners and locks, hinges and pivots, lifts and pulls, pulleys and sash weights, sash balances, and stays

Window unit: a complete window with sash and frame

Installing windows requires attention to many details. The most important of which is installing them in a way that they will not leak. I have seen this process done wrong many times. The following pictures show the correct way of installing windows after the housewrap has been installed.

Prepare the rough opening with housewrap. Most builders make an X-cut in the housewrap and staple the resulting tabs into the opening prior to installing the window. But folding the top tab into the opening gives water a way in behind the window’s top flange. Instead, cut a top tab that covers the window’s top flange after the window is installed. See pictures below. Watch closely.

Figure 343-Step 1

Figure 344-Step 1

Make a horizontal cut and two angled cuts to the sill, then fold up the top tab and tape it out of the way as shown in Step 2.

Figure 345-Step 2

Figure 346-Step 2

Notice how the bottom flap is folded over and nailed to the sill as shown in Step 3. The next step is to install pan flashing. The pan flashing prevents any water from getting in at the bottom of the window. Use a flex wrap material such as that made by Tyvek or Typar. This is one continuous piece of wrap that covers the sill. It wraps up the sides about 10 inches. The flex wrap will overlap the housewrap. Notice how the pan flashing is folded tightly into the bottom corners of the sill, as shown in Step 3.

Figure 347-Step 3

Figure 348-Step 3

After cutting the housewrap and folding back the top flap, the next step is to caulk around the top and two sides of the window opening, as shown in Step 4. Do not caulk the bottom of the opening so as to provide a backup relief opening in the event that any moisture or condensation that gets behind the frame can escape. Now you install the window and seal the flanges against the caulking, as shown in Step 5. At this point, it is very important that the windows are being installed level and shimmed in the opening on both sides to make sure the window is being centered in the rough opening. If there multiple windows in a row, you have to make sure that the windows are even with each other at the top. The carpenter can snap a chalk line to make sure they are all aligned.

Figure 349-Step 4

Figure 350-Step 5

Check the window’s function, then nail off the flange. With only the top corners nailed, and a few finish nails in the side jambs, it is easy to make any necessary adjustments to improve the window’s operation. Once the window functions properly, nail off the rest of the top and side flanges every 4 in. to 6 in. as shown in Step 6. With vinyl windows, use screws to fasten the flange to the sheathing. Using nails will probably crack the flange.

Figure 351-Step 6

Figure 352-Step 7

The sides run long. Run flashing tape 4 in. to 5 in. past the top and bottom flanges, as shown in Step 7. Make sure the tops of the sidepieces stay at least 1 in. short of the top of the headpiece so that the headpiece will have a good, continuous bond with the sheathing. For windows with integral flanges, like the ones we are installing here, butt the tape tight to the jamb. The window wrap comes in 6 “and 9” wide rolls.

Tape the top. Roll tape over the top flange, letting it run past the side pieces by 2 in. to 3 in. as shown in Step 8. Once the top piece is in place, fold down the housewrap tab. Tape along the bottom of the flap and at the corners with housewrap tape. Leave the bottom flange tape-free. The window is now ready for casing and siding. Did you notice that the top piece of window wrap was bonded directly to the sheathing before folding the top flap over? The last step is to tape the diagonal cut made in the upper corners of the window, as shown in Step 9.

Figure 353-Step 8

Figure 354-Step 9

Eliminate drafts with spray foam. Instead of stuffing fiberglass insulation around the window, apply low-expanding spray foam for the best air seal. Backer rod can be used to help fill the space in deep walls before the spray foam is applied.

Figure 355-Step 10

At this point, you should be quite knowledgeable about how windows should be installed. If you let the carpenter put them in wrong, you will have no one to blame but yourself.

Supervision checklist for window installation:

*Are all the windows going to be in the right openings?*Are all windows that require safety glass or tempered glass in the right openings as per IRC R308.4.1?

Generally, the requirements are as follows:

Any windows within 2 feet of either side of an entry door must have safety glass.

The glass, regardless of its size, installed in an entry door must be safety glass.

Any window adjacent to the bottom stair landing with the glass lower than 36-inches above the landing and within 60-inches horizontally of the bottom tread must have safety glass.

Any glass in a sliding or bifold closet door assembly

Any window or glass opening in a shower or tub area must have safety glass if it is lower than 5 feet to the floor or inside tub bottom.

Any one-lite, full-view window that has glass area larger than 9 square feet and whose finished sill will be lower than 18 inches to the floor must have safety glass.

These requirements may vary from state to state.

*Are all the egress windows for bedrooms the proper size per IRC R310?

Generally, the requirements are that each bedroom without direct access to the outside must have at least one egress window. The requirements for the egress window have to meet the following criteria:

The glass area in the operable sash must have a minimum of 5.7 square feet.

The minimum dimensions of the glass area are 20 inches wide and 24 inches high. (Note: If you multiply 20 inches by 24 inches, that will not equal 5.7 square feet.)

The maximum height off the finished floor to the finished windowsill cannot exceed 44 inches.

You have to satisfy all the specifications at the same time.

These requirements may vary from state to state.

*Has the housewrap been installed correctly in the openings as per Steps 1-2-3?

*Has the carpenter installed caulking around the top and two sides of the openings as per Step 4?

*Are the windows centered in the rough opening as per Step 5?

*Are the windows level?

*Do multiple windows on the same wall align with each other at the top?

*Are the windows fastened as per Step 6?

*Is the window wrap installed per Steps 7-8-9?

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

EXTERIOR DOORS-subcategory of framing

Most of the exterior doors are pre-hung units that have the door, doorjambs, threshold, and weather stripping installed. One might think that installing these units would be fairly easy. That should be true, but why do so many carpenters screw this up? Sometimes I think they lie awake at nights dreaming up ways to make it complicated. Read on and you will find out. Do not wait for the carpenter to start setting the doors wrong. You are the supervisor. You discuss with him how you want it done.

The following is a glossary of door terms that will assist you in understanding the installation of door units. If you familiarize yourself with the terminology, you will be able to communicate to the carpenter how you want the door units installed.

GLOSSARY OF DOOR TERMS

Adjustable threshold: a threshold that can be adjusted up and down to ensure a tight seal with the bottom edge of the door (mounted on the sub-sill)

Brickmold: the decorative moulding installed around the exterior of the door frame (provides a stop for the adjoining brick)

Frame: the framework around the door itself (composed of the head jamb, side jambs, and sill)

Hinge: a jointed metal device that pivots around a pin (mounted to the edge of the door and side jamb to enable the door to swing)

Jamb: a component of the door frame that provides the closing stops for the door and contain the weather stripping to seal the door

Mull post: a structural post between a sidelite and the door that provides structural integrity and security

(The door lock latches and deadbolt are installed in the mull post.)

Rails: the horizontal structural members of the door

Sidelite: an ornamental fixed panel adjoining the door on one or both sides (has some glass installed in it)

Sill: the bottom composite member of the door frame (composed of the threshold and the sub-sill and works to keep air and water infiltration to a minimum)

Stiles: the vertical structural members of the door

Strikeplate (strikerplate): the metal plate that protects the jamb from the door latch rubbing on it

Sub-sill: the area beneath the sill (may include a weep system to drain water away from the door)

Sweep: the weather seal on the bottom of the door that makes contact with the threshold

Threshold: the bottom part of the door frame that you step on when entering or exiting through the doorway

Transom: a decorative framed glass panel above the door to accent the style and appearance of the door

Weather stripping: the flexible material installed in the jambs surrounding the top and sides of the door (creates a seal to prevent drafts and water from entering)

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order the garage overhead doors in time to be able to schedule installation on a timely basis.

Standard doors will normally be an in stock item but doors such as insulated or all glass overhead doors could take a lot longer. I waited over 2 months once for a glass overhead door that was being installed in a man-cave room. (Ref page 82 item #28)

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule the garage overhead door installation while carpenter is inside doing the final punch-out work. Normally, the installation wouldn’t take more than 1 day to install unless there are unusual circumstances.

Make sure the opening is the correct size and any required interior anchoring boards are installed.

Figure 356-Example of exterior door unit

Note the picture of an exterior door unit at left. Identify the various components of the unit.

In order to secure the home, install the job locks on the exterior doors as soon as possible after the units are installed. The best job locks are the ones where you set a four-number push-button code. This eliminates unnecessary keys floating around and getting lost.

Supervision checklist for exterior door installation:

*Has the carpenter placed a level on the sides of the rough opening to make sure the trimmers are plumb?

*Has the carpenter placed a level on the floor in the rough opening to see if the floor is level? This is critical. Many times the carpenter will just set the door unit in the opening and assume the floor is level. Then they will place a level of the side jambs to make sure the door is plumb, thinking that everything is okay. In reality, what they may have done is to rack the door unit out of square and create a parallelogram. This condition will cause the door to bind at the top or bottom.

Figure 357- Placing level on the floor to check for error- Chamber’s residence

Of all the issues involved in setting door units, the most important one is starting with a dead-level bottom base platform.

*Has the carpenter installed the door shims behind the hinges? These are the stress points of the door unit.

*Have you checked to make sure the door operates and closes smoothly? There should not be any binding or stressing.

*Did you make sure that the gap (reveal) between the edges of the door and the doorjambs is consistent all the way around? Some adjustment of the shims may be necessary to ensure a uniform gap.

*Have any required flashings been installed over the door trim?

*Have any required framing inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the contractor receives his final draw.

*Has the carpenter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for partial payments.

SKYLIGHTS-subcategory of framing

Skylights are a good means of getting natural light into the home and create a special effect. They do, however, have some installation issues that need to be addressed. Take time to review the glossary of skylight terms in order to familiarize you with them. The skylights will be installed by the carpenter.

GLOSSARY OF SKYLIGHT TERMS

Acrylic: a general-purpose glazing material with excellent optical clarity, weatherability, good chemical resistance, and thermoformability

Air-leakage (AL): indicated by an air-leakage rating and expressed as the equivalent cubic feet of air loss through a square foot of product area (cfm/sq. ft.)

Annealed glass: glass that has not been heat treated and is essentially strain free, often referred to as “float glass”

Bent glass: glass that has been curved by heating to above its softening point and then bent by gravity or press molds (also termed “curved glass”)

Bite: the depth of glass engagement within the glazing channel (also termed “purchase” and “edge engagement”)

Cap or counter flashing: used to protect and waterproof (by overlapping) terminated top edges at curb or base flashing

Cladding: an exterior covering or skin applied to framing or a structure for aesthetic or protective purposes

Condensation gutter: a trough for carrying off condensed or infiltrated water (may be drained to the exterior or allowed to evaporate)

Condensation resistance factor (CRF): measures the ability of a product to resist the formation of condensation on the interior surface of the product (The higher the crf rating, the better that product is at resisting condensation formation. While this rating cannot predict condensation, it can provide a credible comparison of the potential of condensation formation between products.)

Cross rafter or purlin: a structural framing member between rafters, generally at or near horizontal

Curb or base flashing: used for waterproofing at a curb or base

Curb mount: a skylight frame design that enables installation and anchoring of a skylight to a typically 1 ½” wide flashed wood curb, which is a permanent part of the roof structure (This type of installation is typical on a low-sloped roof. Generally, curb-mounted skylights are installed after roof construction.)

Dead load: the load from the permanent parts of a building or structure

Dome rise: the height of the dome above the perimeter flange of the dome (maximum strength for a free-blown dome achieved with a rise of 20% to 25%)

Dome spring line or point of curvature: the transition point at which the horizontal mounting flange of the dome begins to rise (The spring line must be over the internal skylight gutter for condensation to be captured and eliminated through weep holes.)

Double glazed: any glazing consisting of two panes of glazing separated by an air space

Edge block: blocks made of elastomeric material used at the sides of the glass as support and to prevent direct contact with the framing member (mandatory for dry-glazing systems)

Fiberglass reinforced polyesters (FRP): a composite material that consists of a plastic matrix containing reinforcing glass fibers to increase strength or stiffness

Flashing: corrosion-resistant material used for controlling, redirecting, or preventing water from entering a structure

Fully tempered glass: glass that has been heated and quenched in a controlled operation to provide a high level of surface compression (ASTM standard c 1048–85 specifies that the surface compression be a minimum of 10,000 psi. It is generally considered to have four times the strength of annealed glass and two times the strength of heat-strengthened glass.)

Haze factor: the percentage of light through a glazing material that is not diffused (A 100% haze factor would equate to 100% of the light being diffused. Codes require skylights to have a minimum 90% haze factor.)

Heat-strengthened glass: glass that has been heated and quenched in a controlled operation to provide a degree of surface compression (ASTM standard c 1048–85 specifies that the surface compression be between 3,500 and 10,000 psi. It is generally considered to have two times the strength of annealed glass.)

High-impact acrylic: glazing material that has an impact modifier blended with the acrylic resin to meet specific impact requirements

Insulating glass unit: factory-fabricated double glazing with the periphery of the air space sealed to minimize infiltration of water vapor

Laminated glass: a sandwich of two or more glass plies bonded together with resilient plastic interlayers, normally polyvinyl butyral (PVB)

Lite: a single glazing pane (Use of “lite” is preferred to avoid confusion; most often referred to as “pane.”)

Live loads: loads from people and non-permanent parts of a building (Loads from window washing and glazing rigs are live loads.)

Low-emittance (low-e) coating: a coating that has a reduced ability to radiate heat energy (When facing an air space, this property reduces the amount of heat transfer across the space.)

Model building code: a construction code developed from input from industry, building officials, and others for use as a guide for the development of state and local building codes (does not have legislative or jurisdictional power)

Muntin: a nonstructural dividing member between glass panes

Pane: (See “lite.”)

Purlin: (See “cross rafter.”)

Point of curvature: (See “dome spring line.”)

Rafter: for sloped glazing, a main nominally sloped framing member

Seismic load: building movement and forces caused by earthquake motion

Self-flashing: a skylight base that mounts directly to the roof without requiring a curb

Setting block: blocks made of elastomeric material used at the bottom edges of the glass as support and to prevent direct contact with the framing member (mandatory for dry-glazing systems)

Skylight: a glazing and framing assembly consisting of sloped and (sometimes) vertical surfaces, generally inserted into the roof of a building to admit daylight

Sloped glazing: a glazing and framing assembly that is sloped more than 15 degrees from vertical and forms essentially the entire roof of the structure, generally a single-slope construction

Snow load: a weight load imposed on a building wall, roof, or skylight caused by the accumulation of snow, generally a long-term load

Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC): a measurement of how well a product blocks heat from the sun—the fraction of incident solar radiation admitted through the glazing (both admitted through and directly transmitted) and absorbed and subsequently released inward. (The lower a product’s SHGC, the less solar heat it transfers.)

Stepped flashing: sections of overlapping flashing pieces usually woven into tile or shingle roofs at curb or base conditions

Tempered glass: (See “fully tempered glass.”)

U-factor: a measurement of how well a product prevents heat from being transmitted (The lower the U-factor, the better the product’s insulating value.)

Visible light transmittance (TVIS or VT): measures how much light comes through a product (an optical property that indicates the amount of visible light transmitted)

Weep hole: a hole placed in a framing member to allow condensed or infiltrated water to drain to the exterior of the structure

Wind load: a short-duration load on a structure and its components due to the effects of wind

Figure 358-Fixed and vented skylights

Figure 359-Properly framed skylight opening

Supervision checklist for skylight installation:

*Is the skylight opening being positioned in the right location? The skylight location may be determined by spacing of light fixtures or other aesthetic considerations.

*Has the framing carpenter framed in the correct RO for the skylights? You can check this with a tape measure or have the carpenter check it again.

*Have the correct skylights been delivered? You better make sure as soon as they arrive if they are the right ones or if they are damaged. You will need all the time you can get to order replacements.

*Have the affected rafters and headers been doubled? You will learn in the roof-framing discussions which rafters have to be doubled. Put your knowledge to good use. Look at figure 351

*Have any necessary curbs for mounting been installed? Some skylights require a curb; some do not. It is up to the supervisor to make sure the carpenter does any necessary preparation.

*Have the proper flashing kits been installed?

If you need advice on skylights, contact me at mastersguidetohomebuilding.com.

SPECIAL EXTERIOR COLUMNS-subcategory of framing

It is the supervisor’s responsibility to make sure that the carpenter measures the vertical openings correctly where the columns will be installed. The carpenter will install temporary bracing to support the loads until the columns arrive. The framing carpenter will then install them. You want to make sure that the columns are centered and spaced according to plan and are plumb.

Supervision checklist for column installation:

*Are the columns in proper alignment?

*Have the columns been anchored to prevent lateral displacement at the bottom end? Per IRC Section 407 .3

Figure 360-Load-bearing column

SIDING-subcategory of framing

Siding can be installed only after the window and door frames are installed. In order to present a uniform appearance, the siding must line up properly with the drip caps and the bottom of the window and doorsills. At the same time, it must line up at the corners. Siding must be properly lapped to increase wind resistance and water tightness. In addition, it must be installed with the proper nails and in the correct nailing sequence. There are many types of siding made from different materials. Each one needs to be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. One of the most popular siding materials today is fiber cement siding. They come with brand names such as Hardi-Plank, CemPlank, CertainTeed, MaxiPlank, and Nichiha. Fiber cement siding is very durable and finishes well. It has very specific installation instructions that need to be followed in order to adhere to the conditions of the warranty.

The following are installation guidelines for fiber cement siding:

Sheath walls with plywood, or OSB

Cover sheathing with housewrap

Snap chalk lines to mark the location of studs

Fiber cement siding can be nailed by hand or with a pneumatic nailer. It can also be attached using corrosion-resistant screws

Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails

Nails should penetrate through the sheathing and at least one inch into studs

Position nails three-quarters to one inch from the edge of the siding

Siding can either be blind-nailed at the top or face-nailed at the bottom

Use roofing nails for blind-nailing and siding nails for face-nailing

The carpenter should install all the trim around windows, doors, and corners first. These can be made from wood, vinyl, or thicker fiber cement products, such as HardieTrim®. Corners should be at least a quarter inch thicker than two stacked pieces of siding to allow room for caulking. The siding will be installed by butting into the trim. Leave a gap between the end of the siding and the trim of about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. This space is left for caulking.

Figure 361-Installing trim prior to siding

Supervision checklist for siding installation:

*Is the siding being installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions? It will do no good to have the carpenter disregard the instructions. It could void your warranty, look bad, and cost you a lot of money.

*Is the siding being installed so that it is butting into any trim boards? I’ve seen numerous installations where the carpenter installs the siding first than applies the trim boards over the top of the siding. This technique is wrong. Refer to Figure 361 where you see the trim being applied first.

*Did the carpenter install flashings over windows, doors, and any other required locations?

*Is the carpenter breaking or chipping any siding without replacing it? I would hate to think that a carpenter would do that, but I have been around long enough to know that some of them will. Of course, damaged siding or trim has to be replaced.

*Is the carpenter mitering all horizontal trim and soffit at outside corners? This is a good sign of a craftsman who takes pride in his work.

*Did the carpenter clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

WINDOW SHUTTERS-subcategory of framing

The biggest concern I have with installing shutters is that most carpenters do not know how to install them properly. They have a tendency to poke holes in the veneer without consideration of water intrusion. In many cases, they do not use the proper fastening devices as recommended by the manufacturer. The framing carpenter could install the shutters if the veneer is going to be siding. I’m not sure that is a great idea, unless he has a good cornice man. If the wall is going to be something else other than siding, then I probably would have the trim carpenter install them later.

Figure 362-Operable shutter

Supervision checklist for window shutters:

*If the shutters are made of wood, have they been sealed on the back side in order to avoid rotting?

*Are the shutters going to be operable or fixed? This might determine who needs to install the shutters. The carpenter could probably install the shutters if they are going to be of the fixed vinyl variety or a wood board shutter that he would build on site. If they are going to be an actual working shutters complete with latching hardware and hinges, then you are better off having the trim carpenter install them.

*Are the shutters positioned properly as it pertains to the style and type of shutter? The manufacturer should provide a diagram showing proper location.

*Are the shutters in proper alignment with one another?

*Are the shutters level?

*Is the carpenter following the manufacturer’s installation guidelines?

*Is the carpenter using the proper water sealant at all points where the veneer has been penetrated? This may require the carpenter to drill the hole in the veneer first, then filling the hole with silicone sealant before installing the fasteners.

CORNICE FRAMING-subcategory of framing

We are at that point in the construction of the home where good craftsmanship is of utmost concern. Not all framing carpenters can do cornice work properly. In fact, some of the crews farm that part of the job out to other carpenters who specialize only in that work. Cornice is the finish trim work for the exterior. The cornice is the overhang of the roof at the eaves line that forms a connection between the roof and the sidewalls. In a gable roof, it is formed on two sides of the building. The cornice continues around all four sides on a hip or flat roof.

363-Roof cornice detail

Figure 364-Eave detail

Supervision checklist for cornice installation:

*Did the carpenter install 2’ x 4’ or 2’ x 6’ sub-fascia over the rafter tails? This is a framing method that provides an excellent nail base for fascia, soffit, and gutters. A 2x4 or 2x6 is nailed over the ends of the rafter tails. It is important that this board be installed straight. The fascia board is going to follow it. Notice the sub-fascia behind the actual finish fascia material in the eave detail at right.

*Did the carpenter miter all the corner joints? This applies to soffit material, fascia, cornice trim, and frieze board. This is one of the differences between a good cornice carpenter and a mediocre one.

*Did the carpenter use overlapping beveled joints in the fascia, cornice trim, and frieze boards? Again, this is a sign of a craftsman.

*Did the carpenter make the fascia board neat and straight? This is imperative.

*Did the carpenter clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

Figure 365- Installing the base framing for cornice-Chamber’s residence

*If brick vents are going to be installed, did the carpenter leave a continuous open channel behind the frieze in order for the air to ventilate into the attic? If he does not, then the brick vents are meaningless.

ROOF DECKING (SHEATHING)-subcategory of framing

During the construction of your home, it will come time for installing roof sheathing after the band has been run. During the installation of roof sheathing, the contractor will be responsible for supplying his own nails, staples, and clips that are required for the roof sheathing installation. Before you order and begin installing roof sheathing, you need to make sure you understand your options and the energy-efficiency options that are available to you. Make sure that if you are interested in getting the most energy efficiency possible that you install the appropriate tech-shield sheathing to gain efficiency in energy savings. In the photo at right, the carpenter is installing roof decking with a radiant barrier applied to the material.

Figure 366-Installing roof decking with radiant barrier attached

Supervision checklist for installing roof decking:

*When installing roof sheathing, make sure the decking is nailed six inches on center at the end joints and eight inches on center in the field.

*Make sure that the nails are embedding into the rafters and not missing them.

*Make sure that the plywood clips are being installed in the center of each rafter space.

*Make sure that the carpenter is leaving proper expansion gaps. There should be a 1/8-inch gap on the long sides and a 1/16-inch gap on the butting ends of each sheet. This is very important. If this is not done, the decking could absorb moisture and buckle from the swelling. You can count on it.

*Did the carpenter clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any partial payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule installation of fireplace insert/s. These should be installed before the plumber and the electrician begin their rough-ins. You need to give the suppler plenty of time to make sure that the unit you want is in stock or can be in stock within a few days. This is a 1 day installation

Schedule installation of the septic system if applicable. Coordinate with septic contractor.
3 to 5 days to install including time for inspections.

Schedule installation of sewer and water lines. Coordinate with plumbing contractor
2 to 4 days to install. Allow additional time for any required inspections.

Schedule installation of HVAC rough-in. Coordinate with HVAC contractor.
3 to 5 days to install. Allow additional time for any required inspections.

Schedule installation of central vacuum rough-in if applicable. Coordinate with contractor.
1 to 2 days to install.

Schedule installation of plumbing rough-in. Coordinate with plumbing contractor.
5 to 7 days to install. Allow additional time for any required inspections.

Schedule installation of electrical rough-in. Coordinate with electrical contractor.
3 to 5 days to install. Allow additional time for inspections.

Schedule cast-stone installation if applicable. Coordinate with cast-stone contractor.
1 to 2 weeks to install.

Schedule brick installation if applicable. Coordinate with brick contractor.
1 to 2 weeks to install. If a wall tie inspection is required, you’ll need to add additional time.

Schedule stone veneer installation if applicable. Coordinate with stone veneer contractor.
1 to 2 weeks to install.

Schedule stucco contractor if applicable. Coordinate with stucco contractor.
1 to 2 weeks to install.

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order mixing valves for shower faucets and valves for body sprayers/jets. The plumber will need these during the rough-in. May take 2 weeks or more to get. (Ref page 91 “faucets”)

Order tankless water heaters and associated valves and fittings. The plumber will need these during the rough-in. May take a week to get if ordered online. (Ref page 91 “water heaters”)

Order any mason supplies such as mortar and sand

ROOF UNDERLAYMENT-subcategory of framing

It is a common practice with many builders to install one layer of 30-pound felt directly over the roof decking. The felt is overlapped two to three inches and fastened with tin caps and staples or plastic cap nails. The nailing pattern should be 18 inches in all directions. Composition shingles will be installed over the underlayment later. It is also quite popular to install synthetic underlayment. There are many different brands available. Some advantages of using a synthetic underlayment are as follows: It lays flat on the decking unlike felt which can wrinkle. It is highly resistant to tearing unlike felt which tears easily. If strong winds blow some of the shingles off the roof, the synthetic underlayment is still attached. One 10 square roll replaces five rolls of 30-pound felt. It is more resistant to mold.

Figure 367-Synthetic roof underlayment

Figure 368-30 lb. felt underlayment

Figure 369-Comparison of both materials

Supervision checklist for roof underlayment:

*Has the roof decking been cleaned off before installing the underlayment? Leaving nails or other debris trapped under the underlayment can cause problems later.

*Has the underlayment been overlapped sufficiently? The normal overlap is about two to three inches for felt and four inches for synthetic underlayment.

*Has the underlayment been fastened sufficiently? The roofer should have fastened the felt with tin caps and staples or plastic capped nails with a 12-inch nail pattern. This will help prevent high winds from tearing the felt off the decking. The exception to this is if the roofer is installing the shingles simultaneously. If installing synthetic underlayment, fasten material in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.

*Has the underlayment been installed in the valleys adequately? I know this is going to be for a short time, before the permanent valley material will be installed. We want to keep the water from coming in so that other contractors can be working inside. If scheduled correctly, the shingles should be right behind the underlayment.

*Has the debris been cleaned up? This should be required as a condition for receiving payment.

28-GARAGE DOORS

Supervision checklist for garage overhead doors:

*Did the framing carpenter frame in the door opening to the right size? This gets screwed up many times. The finished opening of the garage door needs to be the same size as the door that is going into it. This is measured from side to side and from the concrete (where the door will touch) to the top.

*Is the opening square? Measure the diagonal of the opening in both directions. The dimensions should be the same.
The dimensions could be correct, but the opening could be out of square. The concrete should be level, the top should be level and the two sides should be plumb—period.

*Did the framing carpenter install 1’ x 4’ face boards on the inside wall adjacent to the two vertical sides of jamb material? In many cases, the carpenter leaves the doorjamb sticking into the garage about 5/8 inch. This is done in anticipation of the drywall butting up to the door frame. However, in many cases, the garage door is installed before the drywall, and this poses a problem for the door hanger in bolting his track brackets. The 1’ x 4’ boards make it possible to mount the brackets properly and provide for an attractive trim around the door opening. The face boards should be installed from the bottom of the door frame to the ceiling.

*Are the doors operating smoothly? Right now, there will not be any openers installed, but the doors should still slide up and down without binding. You, as the supervisor, want to get the garage doors in as soon as possible so the home can be secured.

If you look at the photo at the left, you will see that the track brackets have been mounted on top of a 1x4 face board. The face board runs all the way to the ceiling on the two vertical sides of the door jamb.

The drywall will butt up against the face board making a neat installation.

Figure 370- Photo of installed garage door at left-Chamber’s residence

29-FIREPLACE INSERTS

GLOSSARY OF FIREPLACE TERMS

Bellows: a popular accessory to help boost combustion in wood fires by feeding air to the flames as it is forced out of an expandable bladder (Though unnecessary for a gas hearth where the combustion level is easily controlled with the turn of a knob, bellows’ lovely finish in attractive blends of fine woods with vinyl or leather makes them a decorative accessory.)

BTU (British thermal unit): the primary heat measurement unit used by the hearth industry—the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit

Catalytic combustor: a device used on some wood stoves to increase combustion efficiency by lowering flue gas-ignition temperatures

Clearance: the distance required by manufacturers and building codes between the stove, connector pipe, or chimney and any combustible materials

Creosote: deposits of condensed wood smoke in the chimney and connector pipe, resulting from incomplete combustion (can ignite and cause a chimney fire)

Direct vent: an appliance with a sealed, specifically designed venting system that draws combustion air from outdoors and exhausts its combustion products to the outdoors, eliminating the need for a standard chimney system (A glass panel in direct vent units is critical to keeping the combustion system sealed from the home.)

Emissions: unburned gases and particles as a result of incomplete combustion

EPA regulations: government regulations of wood-burning appliances mandating that products sold after

July 1, 1992, emit no more than 4.1 grams of particulate matter per hour for catalytic-equipped units and no more than 7.5 grams for non-catalytic-equipped units

Firebacks: protect fireplace masonry and mortar, shielding them from the extreme heat of the flames (Cast iron firebacks store heat from the fire and radiate it into the room after the fire has died down. Firebacks work just as well in a modern gas fireplace as they do in a traditional wood-burning one.)

Fireplace inserts: heating units that retrofit into an existing fireplace—masonry or factory built (They burn wood, gas, or wood pellets and offer superior efficiency.)

Flue: the passageway in a chimney for conveying gases to the outdoors

Freestanding stove: a heating appliance normally on legs or a pedestal

Gas logs: an open-flame appliance with ceramic or ceramic fiber logs placed over a burner to provide dramatic realism of a traditional flame (Manufactured log sets have a burner that uses either natural gas or propane.)

Glass doors: the doors attached to a fireplace to close off the opening of the hearth from the home to prevent heat from escaping up the chimney and prevent cold air from entering the home when the fireplace is not being used

Grate: a metal frame used to hold and contain burning fuel in a fireplace

Hearth: traditionally refers to the floor of a fireplace on which a blaze is built (Today, it is also used to refer to all the devices and equipment used in connection with the fireplace and the stove industry.)

Heat shield: a noncombustible protector used around appliances, smoke pipes, or chimneys to protect combustibles from heat sources

Hopper: a container attached to an appliance in which fuel—coal, nuggets, or wood pellets—is stored and from which the fuel is fed to the burner

Island fireplace: a fireplace that has four sides of glass, for viewing from any angle

Kindling: thin, dry wood used to start a fire

Liquid propane: liquefied petroleum gas, available in cylinders, for home use

Mantle: an ornamental facing surrounding the fireplace or simply a shelf above a fireplace

Metal liner: used primarily with fireplace inserts and placed inside an existing chimney (usually masonry) to reduce the diameter of the flue for more rapid exit of smoke and combustion gases (also used when an existing chimney is unlimited or deteriorating)

Natural draft (B-vent) appliances: a gas-burning appliance that takes in combustion air from the home and vents byproducts of combustion outside the home

Natural gas: a clean-burning fossil fuel transported to homes via an extensive pipeline network

Pellets: a renewable fuel source made from sawdust or wood chips otherwise destined for landfills (made of 100% compressed wood sawdust, with no additives)

Peninsula fireplace: a fireplace that has three sides of glass

Seasoned: cordwood that has been allowed to dry before burning (Seasoning generally takes 6 to 12 months. Wood burns much more efficiently when its moisture content has been reduced.)

Unvented or vent-free appliance: an appliance that draws combustion air from inside the home (designed to burn so efficiently that it eliminates the need for venting)

Zero-clearance fireplace: a factory-built fireplace that is constructed so that it can be placed, safely, with close clearances to combustible materials

Supervision checklist for fireplace inserts:

*Have you checked to make sure what the rough opening dimensions are going to be for the particular model and size of insert that you will be installing? You don’t want to find out the hard way that the unit won’t fit into the opening that was framed in.

*Have you checked to make sure that the depth of the opening is sufficient for the unit to slide all the way in and still maintain proper required clearances to wood framing? The supplier can give you that information.

*Have you checked to see at what height the customer may want the fireplace to be sitting? In the picture below the finished hearth will be 12 inches off the floor. The insert could sit on concrete blocks or a wood platform.

*Have you checked to make sure that there won’t be any framing in the way that would prevent the fireplace chimney pipe from being routed properly? The carpenter may have to make alterations in order to accommodate the chimney pipe.

*Has exterior air intake installed per IRC R1006.2? The exterior air intake shall be capable of supplying all combustion air from the exterior of the dwelling or from spaces within the dwelling ventilated with outside air such as nonmechanically ventilated crawl or attic spaces. If the home is going to have Icynene insulation in the roof, then you cannot terminate the induction pipe in the attic. Then the intake must be installed through a gable end wall or through the roof.
You do not want to be pulling air that you’ve already paid to have heated fueling the fire. If you don’t have separate combustion air intake, make sure you turn off the furnace prior to starting a fire in the fireplace. In the case of direct vent gas units most manufacturers have solved the combustion air issue by installing what is referred to as concentric pipe. It is double walled. The outer wall brings draws fresh air in to the unit and the inner opening emits carbon monoxide gas.

*Do all the fireplace chimneys extend high enough above the roof per IRC Section R1003.9? Chimneys shall extend at least 2 feet higher than any portion of a building within 10 feet, but shall not be less than 3 feet above the highest point where the chimney passes through the roof.

*The fireplace insert should be installed right after the windows, exterior doors, and garage doors are installed. The reason for this is when the plumber and electrician come to install the rough-ins, they can hook up the gas line and electrical while they are there.

*Is there enough clearance to combustible materials? It is mandatory that any requirements by the manufacturer regarding combustible clearances be followed to the letter.

*Make sure that there are not too many offset fittings in the chimney. The manufacturer should indicate how many of what angle of bend will be allowed.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payment. All of the aforementioned framing issues need to be decided quickly, in order for unit to be installed without problems.

Figure 371- Picture of fireplace insert rough framing Chamber’s residence

Figure 372- Photo of backside of fireplace insert Chamber’s residence

The photo at the left shows the installed insert. Note the unit is now gas piped.

Only one 90 degree bend was necessary to install the unit. The chimney pipe was terminated thru a side wall. This is a typical installation for a direct vent gas unit.

Figure 373- Photo of installed fireplace insert Chamber’s residence

Figure 374-Exterior chimney vent hood Chamber’s residence

30-SEPTIC SYSTEM

Supervision checklist for septic installations:

*Make sure that you are working with a state-licensed installer.

*Has the septic design been approved and permitted?

*Have all the issues been worked out with tank and spray-head locations? This is relevant to any future improvements you may want to install, such as a swimming pool or an outbuilding etc.

*Is the sewer line from the house to the septic tank going to have a slope of 1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot of distance? Too little slope could cause the waste to back up in the sewer line. Too much slope could cause the liquid waste to separate from the solid waste, leaving the solid waste behind.

*Will any influence (outer edge of the septic field or spray) be at least 100 feet away from the drinking water source (well)? This includes your adjoining neighbor’s water source.

*Will the treatment unit be at least 50 feet away from the drinking water source (well)? This includes your adjoining neighbor’s water source.

*Will the treatment unit be at least five feet away from the house?

*Will the treatment unit or influence (outer edge of the septic field or spray pattern) be at least 10 feet from a water line? This includes your adjoining neighbor’s water line.

*Has the system been inspected and approved for backfill? In many areas, this inspection is mandatory.

*Did the contractor provide you with any certification and warranty documents?

*Did the contractor regrade around the areas where he installed the system?

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? These last two items should be required as a condition for receiving any payments.

31-HVAC ROUGH-IN

HVAC is the primary mechanical installation that will go into the home. A good supervisor needs to have a working understanding of the fundamentals involved in the heating and air-conditioning system.

Understanding the terminology is important to this learning. Take time and briefly familiarize yourself with terms. Refer back to them as needed to clarify an issue.

GLOSSARY OF HVAC TERMS

AFUE (annualized fuel utilization efficiency): the ratio of the total useful heat the gas furnace delivers to the house to the heat value of the fuel it consumes

Air balance: an HVAC term for distributing air through a system to precisely match the required amount

Air cleaning: to remove various airborne particulates and/or gases from the air (The three types of air cleaning most commonly used are particulate filtration, electrostatic precipitation, and gas sorption.)

Air conditioner: a device used to control temperature and humidity of the air

Air-conditioning: a term in HVAC for controlling the quality, quantity, and temperature-humidity of the air in an interior space

Air diffuser: an air-distribution outlet, typically located in the ceiling, which mixes conditioned air with room air

Air exchange rate: the rate at which outside air replaces indoor air in a space, expressed in one of two ways: the number of changes of outside air per unit of time, air changes per hour (ACH), or the rate at which a volume of outside air enters per unit of time, cubic feet per minute (CFM)

Air handler: a large metal box containing a blower, heating or cooling elements, filter racks (or chambers), sound attenuators, and dampers, usually connected to ductwork that distributes the conditioned air through the building and returns it to the AHU

Air-handling unit (AHU): the equipment that includes a blower or fan, heating and/or cooling coils, and related equipment, such as controls, condensate drain pans, and air filters (does not include ductwork, registers or grills, or boilers and chillers)

Air infiltration: the unwanted entrance of air due to leakage, temperature difference, or wind

Air passages: openings through or within walls, through floors and ceilings, and around chimney flues and plumbing chases that permit air to move out of the conditioned spaces of the home

Air retarder (housewrap): a material that inhibits airflow into the home, but allows moisture molecules to exit

Ambient air: the air external to a building or device

Attic: the usually unfinished space between the ceiling and the roof

Attic fan: a fan mounted on an attic wall or roof used to exhaust hot attic air to the outside

Attic vent: a passive or mechanical device used to ventilate an attic space, primarily to reduce heat buildup and moisture condensation

Blower: the device in an air conditioner that distributes the filtered air from the return duct over the coil/heat exchanger (This circulated air is cooled/heated and then sent through the supply duct, past dampers, and through supply diffusers to the living/working space.)

BTU: the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit, equal to 252 calories (To get a rough idea of how much heat energy this is, the heat given off by burning one wooden kitchen match is approximately one Btu.)

Building envelope: the elements of the home, including all external building materials, windows, and walls, that enclose the internal space

Carbon dioxide (CO2): a colorless, odorless, noncombustible gas with the formula CO2 that is present in the atmosphere (formed by the combustion of carbon and carbon compounds, such as fossil fuels and biomass; by respiration, which is a slow combustion in animals and plants; and by the gradual oxidation of organic matter in the soil)

Carbon monoxide (CO): a colorless, odorless, but poisonous combustible gas with the formula CO

(produced in the incomplete combustion of carbon and carbon compounds, such as fossil fuels (e.g., coal, petroleum) and their products (e.g., liquefied petroleum gas, gasoline), and biomass

Central heating system: a term in HVAC for a system where heat is supplied to areas of a home from a single appliance through a network of ducts or pipes

CFM (cubic feet per minute): the amount of air, in cubic feet, that flows through a given space in one minute—one CFM equals approximately two liters per second (l/s)

Chimney: a masonry or metal stack that creates a draft to bring air to a fire and to carry the gaseous byproducts of combustion safely away

Chimney effect: the tendency of heated air or gas to rise in a duct or other vertical passage, such as in a chimney, small enclosure, or building, due to its lower density compared to the surrounding air or gas

Combustion: the process of burning—the oxidation of a material by applying heat, which unites oxygen with a material or fuel

Combustion air: the air that provides the necessary oxygen for complete, clean combustion and maximum heating value

Combustion chamber: any wholly or partially enclosed space in which combustion takes place

Combustion gases: the gaseous byproducts of the combustion of a fuel

Compressor: a device used to compress the refrigerant in air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators, enabling it to flow through the system

COP (coefficient of performance): the ratio of energy input to heating capacity (This is the instantaneous measurement of the heating performance of the heat pump. It is comparable to knowing how many miles per gallon of gasoline a car gets when it is going full speed. You can find the COP on the nameplate of the heat pump.)

Condenser: the device in an air conditioner or heat pump in which the refrigerant condenses from a gas to a liquid when it is depressurized or cooled

Condenser coil: the device in an air conditioner or heat pump through which the refrigerant is circulated and releases heat to the surroundings when a fan blows outside air over the coils (will turn the hot vapor that entered the coil into a hot liquid upon exiting the coil)

Condensing unit: the component of a central air conditioner that is designed to remove heat absorbed by the refrigerant and transfer it outside the conditioned space

Conduction: the transfer of heat through a solid material

Convection: the transfer of heat by airflow

Dampers: controls that vary airflow through an air outlet, inlet, or duct (may be immovable, manually adjustable, or part of an automated control system)

Dehumidifier: a device for reducing the level of humidity in a room or home

Demand (tankless) water heater: a type of water heater that has no storage tank, thus eliminating storage tank standby losses (Cold water travels through a pipe into the unit, and either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water, only when needed.)

Diffusers and grills: the components of the ventilation system that distribute and return air to promote air circulation in the occupied space (Supply air enters a space through a diffuser or vent, and return air leaves a space through a grill.)

Direct water heater: a type of water heater in which heated water is stored within the tank (Hot water is released from the top of the tank when a hot water faucet is turned. This water is replaced with cold water that flows into the tank and down to just above the bottom plate under, which are the burners.)

Draft: a column of burning combustion gases that are so hot and strong that the heat is lost up the chimney before it can be transferred to the house (brings air to the fire to help keep it burning)

Duct fan: an axial-flow fan mounted in a section of duct to move conditioned air

Duct(s): the round or rectangular conduits that are constructed of sheet metal, fiberglass board, or a flexible plastic-and-wire composite (They are located within a wall, floor, and ceiling that distribute heated or cooled air in homes. The diameter of the ductwork controls the amount of airflow into a room.)

EER (energy efficiency ratio): the instantaneous measurement of the cooling efficiency of an air conditioner or heat pump (The higher the EER for an air conditioner or heat pump, the more efficient it is.)

Exhaust ventilation: the mechanical removal of air from a portion of a home (e.g., piece of equipment, room, or general area)

Filter (air): a device that removes contaminants, by mechanical filtration, from the fresh air stream before the air enters the living space (Filters can be installed as part of a heating/cooling system through which air flows for the purpose of removing particulates. Not only does the filter clean the home environment, but it also protects the mechanical equipment from abrasion and premature failure.)

Fireplace insert: a wood or gas burning heating unit that fits into a constructed opening or protrudes onto the hearth of a conventional fireplace

Flue: the structure in a residential heating appliance that contains and directs combustion gases until they are emitted to the atmosphere

Flue gas: the gas resulting from the combustion of a fuel that is emitted to the flue

Forced air system (furnace): a type of heating system in which heated air is blown by a fan through ducts into rooms

Freon: a registered trademark for a chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) gas that is highly stable and that has been historically used as a refrigerant

Furnace: a term in HVAC for a combustion-heating appliance in which heat is captured from the burning of a fuel for distribution (comprised mainly of a combustion chamber and heat exchanger)

Heat: a form of thermal energy resulting from combustion, chemical reaction, friction, or movement of electricity (As a thermodynamic condition, heat, at a constant pressure, is equal to internal or intrinsic energy plus pressure times the volume.)

Heat loss: the heat that flows from the building interior, through the building envelope, to the outside environment

Heat pump: an air conditioner with a valve that allows it to operate in reverse, removing heat from the house and shunting it outdoors in the summer, and removing heat from outdoor air and shunting it into the house in the winter (Because heat pumps do not actually create heat—they just move it from one place to another—heat pumps are more efficient than other forms of heating.)

Heat rate: the ratio of fuel energy input as heat per unit of net work output, a measure of a power plant thermal efficiency, generally expressed as Btu per net kilowatt-hour

Heat register: the grilled opening in a room by which the amount of warm air from a furnace can be directed or controlled (may include a damper)

HEPA: high-efficiency particulate air (filters)

Hot-air furnace: a heating unit where heat is distributed by means of convection or fans

HSPF (heating seasonal performance factor): an efficiency rating for heat pumps (It is a measure of the average number of Btu of heat delivered for every watt-hour of electricity used by the heat pump over the heating season. It takes into account variations due to weather conditions over a season. HSPF is comparable to knowing how many miles per gallon of gasoline a car gets, averaged over the entire year.)

Humidifier: a device for increasing the humidity in a room or home

Humidity: a measure of the moisture content of air (may be expressed in terms as absolute, mixing ratio, saturation deficit, relative, or specific)

HVAC: an acronym for a heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning system

Ignite: a term to heat a gaseous mixture to the temperature at which combustion takes place

Ignition point: the minimum temperature at which combustion of a solid or fluid can occur

Indoor air: the air the people breathe inside a climatized environment

Indoor air pollutant: particles, dust, fibers, mists, bioaerosols, gases, or vapors

Infiltration: the air-leakage inward through cracks and interstices (can be in ceilings, floors, and walls of the home)

Inhalable: particles small enough to be inhaled, but large enough so that they are not quickly exhaled

Integrated heating system: a type of heating appliance that performs more than one function (for example, space and water heating)

Ion: an electrically charged atom or group of atoms that has lost or gained electrons (A loss makes the resulting particle positively charged; a gain makes the particle negatively charged.)

Ionizer: a device that removes airborne particles from breathable air (Negative ions are produced and give up their negative charge to the particles. These new negative particles are then attracted to the positive particles surrounding them. This accumulation process continues until the particles become heavy enough to fall to the ground.)

Makeup air: fresh outside air brought into a home through ventilating (heating or cooling) equipment

Manual J load calculations: the proper way to establish the size of a system for your home (takes into consideration factors such as local climate, size, shape, orientation of the house, insulation levels, window type, window location, window size, air infiltration rates, and more)

Mechanically ventilated crawl space system: a system in HVAC a designed to increase ventilation within a crawl space, achieve higher air pressure in the crawl space relative to air pressure in the soil beneath the crawl space, or achieve lower air pressure in the crawl space relative to air pressure in the living spaces, by use of a fan

Mitigation: a measure taken to reduce adverse effects on the environment

Natural ventilation: the movement of outdoor air into a space through intentionally provided openings, such as windows and doors, passive ventilators, or by infiltration

Negative pressure: a condition that exists when less air is supplied to a space than is exhausted from the space, so the air pressure within that space is less than that in surrounding areas (Under this condition, if an opening exists, air will flow from surrounding areas into the negatively pressurized space.)

Outdoor air: air taken from the external atmosphere and therefore not previously circulated through the system

Outdoor air supply: air brought into a building from the outdoors (often through the ventilation system) that has not been previously circulated through the system (also known as “Make-Up Air”)

Particulate matter: a state of matter in which solid or liquid substances exist in the form of aggregated molecules or particles, typically in the size range of 0.01 to 100 micrometers

Particulates: fine liquid or solid particles such as dust, smoke, mist, fumes, and fog found in air and emissions

Plenum: a chamber that contains air under positive pressure (The ductwork is connected to the plenum and is distributed to individual rooms.)

Positive pressure: a condition that exists when more air is supplied to a space than is exhausted, so the air pressure within that space is greater than that in surrounding areas (Under this condition, if an opening exists, air will flow from the positively pressurized space into surrounding areas.)

Pressure, static: the total pressure minus velocity pressure of airflow (the portion of the pressure that pushes equally in all directions)

Preventative maintenance: regular and systematic inspections that involve cleaning and replacement of worn parts, materials, and systems (Preventive maintenance helps to prevent parts, material, and systems failure by ensuring that parts, materials, and systems are in good working order.)

Programmable thermostat: a type of thermostat that allows the user to program into the device’s memory a preset schedule of times (when certain temperatures occur) to turn on HVAC equipment

Propane: a hydrocarbon gas (C3H8) occurring in crude oil, natural gas, and refinery cracking gas, used as a fuel, a solvent, and a refrigerant (Propane liquefies under pressure and is the major component of liquefied petroleum gas, or LPG.)

R-value: the measure of the capacity of a material to resist heat transfer (The R-value is the reciprocal of the conductivity of a material (U-value). The larger the R-Value of a material, the greater it’s insulating properties.)

Radiant barrier: a thin, reflective foil sheet that exhibits low radiant energy transmission and, under certain conditions, can block radiant heat transfer (installed in attics to reduce heat flow through a roof assembly into the living space)

Radiant heat transfer: occurs when there is a large difference between the temperatures of two surfaces that are exposed to each other, but are not touching

Radiant heating system: a heating system where heat is supplied (radiated) into a room by means of heated surfaces, such as electric resistance elements, hot water (hydronic) radiators, etc.

Radiator: a room heat delivery (or exchanger) component of a hydronic (hot water or steam) heating system (hot water or steam is delivered to it by natural convection or by a pump from a boiler)

Radiator vent: a device that releases pressure within a radiator when the pressure inside exceeds the operating limits of the vent

Re-entry: a situation that occurs when the air being exhausted from a building is immediately brought back into the system through the air intake and other openings in the building envelope

Recirculated air: air that is removed from the conditioned space and used for ventilation, heating, cooling, humidification, or dehumidification

Refrigerant: the compound (working fluid) used in air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators to transfer heat into or out of an interior space (boils at a very low temperature, enabling it to evaporate and absorb heat)

Relative humidity: a measure of the percent of moisture actually in the air compared with what would be in it if it were fully saturated at that temperature (When the air is fully saturated, its relative humidity is 100 %.)

Return air: air that is returned to a heating or cooling appliance from a heated or cooled space

Return duct: a fan that gets its air supply through these ducts, which ideally should be installed in every room of the house (The air from a room will move toward the lower pressure of the return duct.)

Seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER): a measure of seasonal or annual efficiency of a central air conditioner or air-conditioning heat pump (It takes into account the variations in temperature that can occur within a season and is the average number of Btu of cooling delivered for every watt-hour of electricity used by the heat pump over a cooling season.)

Setback thermostat: a thermostat that can be set to automatically lower temperatures in an unoccupied house and raise them again before the occupant returns

Split-system air conditioner: an air-conditioning system that comes in two to five pieces—one piece contains the compressor, condenser, and a fan; the others have an evaporator and a fan (The condenser, installed outside the house, connects to several evaporators, one in each room to be cooled, mounted inside the house. Each evaporator is individually controlled, allowing different rooms or zones to be cooled to varying degrees.)

Static pressure: a condition that exists when an equal amount of air is supplied to and exhausted from a space (At static pressure, equilibrium has been reached.)

Storage water heater: a water heater that releases hot water from the top of the tank when a hot water tap is opened (To replace that hot water, cold water enters the bottom of the tank to ensure a full tank.)

Supply duct: the duct(s) of a forced air heating/cooling system through which heated or cooled air is supplied to rooms by the action of the fan of the central heating or cooling unit

System capacity: a measurement of the total amount of heat or cooling the furnace, heat pump, or air conditioner can produce in one hour (reported in Btu/hr on the nameplate of the equipment)

Tankless water heater: a water heater that heats water before it is directly distributed for end use as required (also known as a “demand water heater”)

Temperature zones: the temperature in individual rooms or zones is controlled separately from other rooms or zones

Therm: a unit of heat containing 100,000 BTU

Thermostat: a low-voltage electronic switching device that monitors temperatures inside the home and turns on and off the heating or cooling system as set

Ton (air-conditioning): a unit of air-cooling capacity—12,000 Btu per hour

Vapor retarder: a material that retards the movement of water vapor through a building element (walls, ceilings) and prevents insulation and structural wood from becoming damp and metals from corroding, often applied to insulation batts or separately in the form of treated papers, plastic sheets, and metallic foils

Variable air volume system (VAV): an air-handling system that conditions the air to constant temperature and varies the outside airflow to ensure thermal comfort

Vent: a component of a heating or ventilation appliance used to conduct fresh air into, or waste air or combustion gases out of, an appliance or interior space

Vent damper: a device mounted in the vent connector that closes the vent when the heating unit is not firing, trapping heat inside the heating system and house rather than letting it draft up and out the vent system

Vent pipe: a duct in which combustion gases from a combustion appliance are vented out of the appliance to the outdoors

Vented heater: a type of combustion heating appliance in which the combustion gases are vented to the outside, either with a fan (forced) or by natural convection

Ventilation: the process of moving air (changing) into and out of an interior space either by natural or mechanically induced (forced) means

Ventilation air: the total air, which is a combination of the air brought inside from outdoors and the air that is being recirculated within the building (sometimes, however, used in reference only to the air brought into the system from the outdoors, also known as “outdoor air ventilation”)

Ventilation rate: the rate at which indoor air enters and leaves a building, expressed in one of two ways: the number of changes of outdoor air per unit of time (air changes per hour, or “ach”) or the rate at which a volume of outdoor air enters per unit of time (cubic feet per minute, or “cfm”)

Zone: an area within the interior space, such as an individual room(s), to be cooled, heated, or ventilated (A zone has its own thermostat to control the flow of conditioned air into the space.)

Zoning: the combining of rooms in a structure according to similar heating and cooling patterns (requires using more than one thermostat to control heating, cooling, and ventilation equipment)

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Basic components of an air-conditioning system

Typical basement and attic installations (Note: The basement installation has metal ductwork, while the one in the attic has flexduct. Both are correct installations.)

Procedures for HVAC System

Figure 375-Illustration of HVAC system

Figure 376-Basement installation in left photo

Figure 377-Attic installation in right photo

Design and Installation

The goal for an HVAC system is to provide proper airflow, heating, and cooling to each room. The following HVAC information sets out key criteria that describe a quality system and key design and installation considerations that should be met to achieve this goal.

Homeowners/builders should insist that contractors use a correct sizing calculation before signing a contract. This service is provided by conscientious air-conditioning contractors. Manual J, Residential Load Calculation, published by the Air-Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA), is the recommended method for use in the United States. There are also many user-friendly computer software packages or worksheets that can simplify the calculation procedure. You should make sure that the procedure used by the contractor follows Manual J.

All the following information is easily understood with a little effort. There are no technical formulas to learn. This is all fundamental information that every good supervisor should know.

Criteria for a Quality HVAC System

An HVAC system should:

Be properly sized to provide correct airflow and meet room-by-room calculated heating and cooling loads.

Be installed so that the static air pressure drop across the handler is within manufacturer and design specifications to have the capacity to meet the calculated loads.

Have sealed supply ductwork that will provide proper airflow.

Be installed with a return system sized to provide correct return airflow.

Have sealed return ductwork that will provide proper airflow to the fan and avoid air entering the HVAC system from polluted zones (e.g., fumes from autos and stored chemicals, and attic particulates).

Have balanced airflows between supply and return systems to maintain neutral pressure in the home.

Minimize the duct air temperature gain or loss between the air handler and room registers, and between return registers and the air handler.

Be properly charged with refrigerant.

Have proper burner operation and proper draft.

Design, Fabrication, and Installation

The following are design, fabrication, and installation guidelines that, if carefully followed, will provide a duct installation that is substantially airtight.

General Issues

Ducts, plenums, and fittings should be constructed of galvanized metal, duct board, or flexible duct. Building cavities may not be used as a duct or plenum without a sealed duct board or metal liner.

The air handler box should be airtight.

Air filters should be easily accessible for replacement, and evaporator coils should be easily accessible for cleaning.

Ducts should be configured and supported to prevent the use of excess material, prevent dislocation or damage, and prevent constriction of ducts below their rated diameter.

Flexible duct bends should not be made across sharp corners or have incidental contact with metal fixtures, pipes, or conduits that can compress or damage the ductwork.

Sheet metal collars and sleeves should be beaded to hold drawbands.

Fabricate and Install an Airtight Duct System

All joints and seams of duct systems and their components should be sealed with mastic, mastic and embedded mesh, or pressure-sensitive tape approved for use by the duct manufacturer and meeting UL181 specifications (“approved tape”), including around junctions of collars to distribution boxes and plenums.

All sealants should be used in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and within sealants moisture and temperature limitations.

All tapes used as part of the duct system installation should be applied to clean, dry surfaces and sealed with the manufacturer’s recommended amount of pressure or heat. If oil is present, taped surfaces should be prepared with a cleaner/degreaser prior to application.

It is recommended that all register boxes should be sealed to the drywall or floor with caulking or mastic.

Flexible Ducts

Flexible ducts should be joined by a metal sleeve, collar, coupling, or coupling system. At least two inches of the beaded sleeve, collar, or coupling must extend into the inner core, while allowing a one-inch attachment area on the sleeve, collar, or coupling for the application of tape.

The inner core should be mechanically fastened to all fittings, preferably using drawbands installed directly over the inner core and beaded fitting. If beaded sleeves and collars are not used, then the inner core should be fastened to the fitting using #8 screws equally spaced around the diameter of the duct, and installed to capture the wire coil of the inner liner (three screws for ducts up to a 12-inch diameter, and five screws for ducts over a 12-inch diameter).

The inner core should be sealed to the fitting with mastic or approved tape.

Tape used for sealing the inner core should be applied with at least 1 inch of tape on the duct lining, 1 inch of tape on the fitting of flange, and wrapped at least three times.

The outer sleeve (vapor barrier) should be sealed at connections with a drawband (zip tie) and/or three wraps of approved tape.

The vapor barrier should be complete. All holes, rips, and seams must be sealed with mastic or approved tape.

Metal Ducts and Plenums

Metal-to-metal connections should be cleaned and sealed in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications.

Openings greater than 1/16 inch should be sealed with mastic and mesh or butyl adhesive tape.

Openings less than 1/16 inch should be sealed with mastic or UL-181A listed tape.

Special attention should be paid to collar connections to duct board and/or sheet metal; seal around the connection with mastic.

Connections between collars and distribution boxes should be sealed with mastic or approved tape.

At least three equally spaced #8 screws should be used to mechanically fasten round ducts (three screws for ducts up to a 12-inch diameter, and five screws for ducts over a 12-inch diameter).

Crimp joints should have a contact lap of at least 1.5 inches.

Square or rectangular ducts should be mechanically fastened with at least one screw per side.

Duct Board

Duct board connections should be sealed with adhesive, mastic, or UL 181A listed pressure-sensitive or heat-activated tape in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications.

Duct Support

Supports should be installed per the manufacturer’s specifications or per UMC (uniform mechanical code) requirements.

Supports for flexible ducts should be spaced at no more than four-foot intervals.

Flexible ducts should be supported by strapping having a minimum width of 1.5 inches at all contact points with the duct.

Supports should not constrict the inner liner of the duct.

Flexible ducts should have a maximum of a half-inch sag per foot between supports.

Flexible ducts may rest on ceiling joists or truss supports as long as they lie flat and are supported at no more than four-foot intervals.

Boots

After mechanically attaching the register boot to the floor, wall, or ceiling, all openings between the boot and floor, wall, or ceiling should be sealed with caulk or mastic.

Seal Air Handler

Openings greater than 1/16 inch should be sealed with mastic and mesh or butyl adhesive tape.

Openings less than 1/16 inch should be sealed with mastic or UL 181A listed tape.

Unsealed access doors should be sealed with UL 181A listed tape.

One of the things that you should have picked up on is the importance of having an airtight seal on all the equipment. Without this seal, the system cannot operate as engineered.

Supervision checklist for HVAC rough-in installation:

*Have you walked through the home with the contractor to make sure there will not be any problems installing the system as planned? There are times when the carpenter may have to alter some framing in order to accommodate the ductwork, etc.

*Was the system properly sized by using a Manual J load calculation? Your hvac contractor would be the one to do this. This should be mandatory before the contract is signed.

*Is the return air large enough for the system? It is highly recommended that you provide a minimum of 144 square inches per each ton of air-conditioning. You have to plan on the possibility that a restrictive air filter, such as a pleated media filter, hepa filter, or an electrostatic air filter, may be installed. You cannot have too much intake.

*Is the return air chamber sealed airtight so air can only flow through the filter? That is the way it should be.

*Is the return air chamber lined with the proper material? Drywall or ductboard are the best. In either case, the joints in the lining should be taped and have mastic applied over the taped joint.

*Is the air handler box sealed airtight? This is the metal housing that contains the heating and cooling elements, including the blower. It should be sealed.

*Is the plenum sealed airtight so that the air inside that is under positive pressure cannot escape?

*Is the air filter located where it is easily accessible? This especially pertains to media filters that are installed at the air handler.

*Have the ultraviolet lights been installed? Was this an option that you wanted?

*Is the thermostat located on an interior wall in an area where air being returned to the filter will be able to sweep by the thermostat? In a number of occasions, a thermostat may be located in a dead corner where moving air cannot sweep.

*Are the ducts supported properly? Read duct support information, if necessary.

*Have all unnecessary bends and loops in the ductwork been removed?

*Have the boots been sealed properly? Read information on sealing the boots, if necessary.

*Did the contractor install the required exhaust ductwork for the bath fans, kitchen exhaust, and clothes dryer?

*Has the primary 3/4-inch discharge line coming from the evaporator coil been run in a downhill slope from the evaporator coil to the location of a wet trap? A wet trap would be one that normally would always be holding water such as a bathroom lavatory or kitchen trap. There would be almost zero chance that the trap would dry up due to inactivity thereby allowing sewer gas to enter the home. The plumber will connect the line to the trap later in the finish plumbing installations.

*Has the secondary 3/4-inch emergency backup line from the evaporator coil drain pan been run in a downhill slope from the pan to terminate at a location outside that will always be visible from the inside? An example of this would be to terminate the line through the soffit a few inches in front of a window. After the system is energized, this line should never have any discharge coming out of it. Any discharge from this line outside indicates a problem.

*Is the drain pan free of any debris? Bits of insulation or other debris can clog up the outlet hole from the drain pan causing the pan to overflow through the ceiling.

*Is the service access panel on the furnace within 20 feet of the attic access opening? This requirement is predicated upon having a passageway at least 24 inches wide made of solid flooring and be able to remove the largest appliance but able to accommodate an appliance not less than 30 inches high and 22 inches wide. If the passageway is unobstructed and has a minimum headroom height of 6 feet and is at least 22 inches wide its entire length then the passageway can be a maximum of 50 feet long.

*Is there a level service space of at least 30 inches wide on all sides of the appliance where access is required?

*Are the required clearances to combustible material being adhered to as per manufacturer’s instructions?

*Is there a light with switch located in such a manner as to illuminate the attic access opening?

*Is there a service outlet installed at or near the appliance?

*Has any required ductwork for range hoods, clothes dryers, and exhaust vent fans been installed? Many times these installations are overlooked during the rough-in installations.

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the contractor receives his rough draw.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payment

Figure 378-Photo of supporting duct work nylon straps-Chamber’s residence

Figure 379- Photo of insulated register boot Chamber’s residence

Figure 380- Photo of installing electronic zoned dampers Chamber’s residence at right

The reason for showing you the following photos is to remind you that a number of installations have to be stubbed out of the house. It is the HVAC contractor’s responsibility to make sure that the secondary issues like dryer vent, bath vent, and range vent are all ducted and terminating outside. Many times some of these items are forgotten until it’s too late.

Figure 381-Photo of AC compressor Freon line Chamber’s residence

Figure 382-Photo of dryer vent stub-out Chamber’s residence

Figure 383-Photo of bathroom vent duct Chamber’s residence

Figure 384-Photo of range hood duct Chamber’s residence

32-INSTALL SEWER LINE

What is a sewer lateral? A sewer lateral is the section of pipe from the property line to the mainline sewer in the street. This section is sometimes referred to as the “public” side. The section of pipe between the property line and the structure is called the building sewer. This section is sometimes referred to as the “private” side. Every building receiving sewer service has at least one building sewer and sewer lateral.

Who owns the sewer lateral?

The sewer lateral (the section between the property line and the mainline sewer) is owned and maintained by the district. The building sewer (the section between the property line and the structure) is owned and maintained by the property owner. It is private property and considered part of the house. Typically, a property line cleanout is installed by the homeowner at the property line.

Supervision checklist for lateral sewer line:

*Make sure you are working with a state-licensed plumber or municipality-approved contractor.

*Has the work been permitted?

*Do you know the depth of the sewer main?

*The sewer lateral has to be installed below frost depth, where applicable.

*The sewer lateral has to have a slope of 1/8–1/4 inch per foot fall.

*The sewer lateral has to be straight so as not to hold sewage in a dip.

*Has a sewer cleanout been installed within five feet of the foundation?

*Has the sewer tap in the main sewer been inspected and approved?

*Has the sewer line been inspected and approved before backfill?

*Did the contractor regrade the installation area and remove any debris? This should be required as a condition for any payment.

33-INSTALL WATER LINE (also known as a lateral)

Supervision checklist for installing the water line:

*Make sure you are working with a state-licensed plumber or other municipality-approved contractor.

*Has the work been permitted?

*Have you made sure that the main tap is the right size for your home? You really don’t want to install less than a one-inch diameter tap and main water line. This is especially true if you are going to have high-volume water fixtures, such as jets, body sprays, and rain showerheads. Maybe you want a lawn sprinkler system, and the system will be on at the same time somebody’s taking a shower.
The water line running from the house to the main water source should be made of a flexible material such as polyethylene, PEX, or type-L copper. Of the three, my preference would be PEX.
It is not a good idea to use any jointed material such as PVC. You never know when you could have a failure at a joint. The buzzwords are “no joints and flexible.” The other issue is that something as rigid as PVC can snap with unusual ground movement. In areas of the country where the ground freezes, you have to install the water line below frost depth.

*Has the installation been inspected and approved before cover-up?

*Did the contractor regrade the affected area and clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payment.

*SCHEDULE ALERT*

Schedule the composition roofing contractor. This should begin after the HVAC and plumbing contractors have penetrated the roof decking with all of their vent and flue pipes etc. This is going to be a 2 to 3 day operation.

*ORDERING ALERT*

If it is your responsibility to order the composition roofing material, do it now. Coordinate the delivery schedule with the roofing contractor. The roofing supplier may be able to help you to do a roofing material take-off. The material will normally take 1 to 2 days to have delivered. (Ref page 92 item #35)

34-PLUMBING ROUGH-IN

In our discussion of the plumbing system, you are going to see many supervisor-controlled elements. Read the following list of plumbing terms. Familiarize yourself with the nomenclature. Refer back to the terms as necessary.

GLOSSARY OF PLUMBING TERMS

A-valve: This is a manual gas shutoff valve.

ABS: This is an abbreviation for Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene. This is a rigid black plastic pipe used for drainage, waste, and vent lines.

Access panel: This is an opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

Aerator: This is a device screwed into the end of a faucet spout that mixes air into flowing water and controls flow to reduce splashing. It sometimes contains a baffle to reduce flow to 2.5 gpm.

AGA: This is an abbreviation for the American Gas Association.

Air-admittance valve: This is a device that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter the pipe and equalize pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.

Air chamber: This is a vertical, air-filled pipe or spring coil, set above the waterline to absorb pressure when water is turned off at the faucet.

Air gap: This is a device mounted at the back of a kitchen sink, connecting to the drain line between a dishwasher and disposer to allow the dishwasher to discharge freely into the disposer, while preventing contaminated water from siphoning back into the dishwasher.

Alkali: This is a water-soluble mineral compound, usually a moderate strength base (as opposed to caustic hydroxide), such as a bicarbonate and carbonate compound when it is present in the water, or the measurement of constituents in a water supply that determine alkaline conditions. The alkalinity of water is a measure of its capacity to neutralize acids

Angle stop: This is a shutoff valve between water pipes and a faucet. The inlet connects to the water supply pipe in a wall; the outlet angles up 90 degrees to the faucet.

Anode rod: This is a sacrificial rod installed in a water heater. It is composed of one or more metals that protect the tank from corrosion and extend tank life.

Anti-siphon: This is a preventive device for backflow of liquid, such as on sprinkler systems to prevent water from trickling back into the feed supply.

Apron: The apron (or skirting) is a decorative portion of a bathtub covering the rough-in area from the floor to the top rim of the tub.

Autopilot: This is a gas pilot device that automatically shuts off gas supply to the appliance burner if the pilot flame is extinguished.

Backflow: This is the act of water traveling from one system back into any part of the main distribution system (usually by siphoning.)

Backflow preventer: This is a device to prevent backflow (i.e., into a potable water supply), usually required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, kitchen sprayers, etc.

Back pressure: This is pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.

Back siphonage: This is the negative pressure that causes backflow.

Backup-This is the overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage (e.g., a clogged toilet or clogged drain).

Basket strainer: This is a basket-shaped strainer with holes and a slot that fits the sink drain to allow water to run out but to catch food or other solids before they can enter the sewage system.

Bidet: This is a personal hygiene plumbing fixture similar in appearance to a toilet bowl used for washing genitals and posterior areas of the body. It is mounted on the floor next to a toilet and consists of a washing basin, a hot and cold faucet, and sprayer.

Body sprayer: This is a shower component used in conjunction with a showerhead to deliver flow of water. These are commonly used in multiples to create a custom shower space.

Brackish water: This is water containing bacteria between 1.000 and 15,000 ppm (parts per million) of dissolved solids.

Branch: This is any part of a drain system other than the main, riser, or stack.

Branch vent: This is a vent connecting one or more individual vents with a vent stack.

Building drain: This is the lowest point in a drainage system where the interior drainage pipes meet and are conveyed to the sewer.

Buttress (tile rise): This is the raised portion of a shower curb that is on more than one level.

Catch basin-This is a large underground container, with a grate on the top, for collection of storm water runoff.

Cleanout plug: This is a plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet flange: This is an anchoring ring that attaches to the closet bend and secured to the floor. The heads of closet bolts, used to secure the toilet in place, insert into slots in the closet flange.

CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride): This is rigid plastic pipe used in water supply systems, where code permits.

Curb: This is a raised edge or border of a shower, usually made of tile, marble, or fiberglass.

DWV: This is an abbreviation for drainage, waste, and vent systems, which remove wastewater. DWV is not used for drinking water.

Deck mount: This describes a faucet that is mounted on the deck of the bathtub enclosure, rather than on the rim of the bathtub or on the wall. This term also refers to a Roman spout faucet mounted on the deck. Tubs mounted in the deck are also known as a sunken tub. The deck-mount tub is usually mounted on a platform and has no apron or decorative side.

Deep well: This is a well more than 25 feet deep.

Direct vent: This is a system that pulls outside air for combustion and vents combustion gases directly outside without using a chimney.

Dishwasher tailpiece: This is a flanged adapter connecting a basket strainer to the drainpipe with a dishwasher inlet.

Drain: This is any pipe that carries wastewater or water-borne waste.

Drip leg: This is a stub-end pipe placed at a low point in the gas piping to collect condensation and permit its removal.

Effluent: This is septic system liquid waste.

Elongated toilet: This is a toilet where the bowl is about 2 inches longer than the standard round-front bowl, usually 14 inches wide by 18.5 inches long.

Escutcheon: This is a decorative metal flange or trim shield beneath a faucet handle that covers the faucet stem and the hole in the fixture or wall.

Finish plumbing: This is the installation of plumbing fixtures that makes the system usable.

Firestop: These are fire-resistant materials that fill the opening around penetrating items, such as cables, cable trays, conduits, ducts, and pipes, and their means of support through the wall or floor to prevent spread of fire.

Fixture: This is a device that provides a supply of water or its disposal of water, such as sinks, tubs, or toilets.

Fixture unit: This is an arbitrary unit assigned to different types of plumbing fixtures and used to estimate flow rate requirements and drain capacity requirements.

Floor drain: This is a drainage fitting that sits flush with the floor, used in basements, utility rooms, and showers.

Floor flange: This is a fitting that connects a toilet to a floor drain.

Flow rate: This is a flow measurement in gallons per minute (GPM) or in gallons per hour (GPH).

Flue-This is a passageway for combustion byproducts.

Freestanding: This is a term used to describe a bathtub that is free of walls on all sides.

GPF: This is an abbreviation for gallons per flush used in toilets. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 gpf. Older styles were usually 3.5 gpf.

GPH: This is an abbreviation for flow rate measured in gallons per hour.

GPM: This is an abbreviation for flow rate measured in gallons per minute. This is the rate of flow by which faucets, body jets, body sprayers, and showerheads are measured and regulated.

Gray water: This is the wastewater from sinks, showers, and bathtubs, but not toilets.

Hand shower: This is a handheld showerhead designed with a handle that is connected to a water supply and a flexible hose.

Hardness: This is the amount of dissolved minerals in water measured in grains per gallon (GPG). The most common minerals are calcium and magnesium.

ID: This is an abbreviation for inside diameter. All pipes are sized according to their inside diameter.

Island vent: This is an air-admittance valve. The basic principle is simple; the vent comes from below the floor and is tied into the drainpipe from the top. This allows the wastewater to drain normally, while fresh air is brought in to protect the trap.

Lateral sewage line: This is a sewage line that connects one sewage pipe with another.

Lav: This is an abbreviated term for lavatory.

Lav tube: This is a water supply tube for a lavatory.

Lavatory: This is a fixed bowl or basin with running water and drainage for washing. This is also known as the “bathroom sink,” “lav bowl,” or “lav.”

Low-consumption toilet: This is a class of toilet designed to use 1.6 gallons of water per flush. These are also known as “water-saving” toilets.

Main: This is the primary artery of supply of the water system or drain system in which all the branches connect. In the case of drains, this is also known as the “main vent.”

Manabloc: The Manabloc system uses flexible Viega PEX tubing that connects from the distribution panel directly to the fixture with a crimp fitting. It greatly minimizes the need for fittings and the potential for leaks. (Crimp tools are required for installation.) This system is superior to using rigid pipe.

Mixing valve: This is a device that mixes hot and cold water to achieve a specified delivery temperature.

Monobloc faucet: This is a single-handle faucet, usually a lever.

Municipal water: This is water supplied by a city for public use—tap water. The water is usually held in a reservoir.

Natural gas: This is a colorless, odorless fuel derived from the earth, consisting primarily of Methane (CH4). Odors are added to aid in leak detection.

OD: This is an abbreviation for outside diameter.

Orifice: This is an opening through which gas is discharged and whereby the flow of gas is limited and/or controlled.

Outside diameter (OD): This is the diameter of a pipe measured from the outside edge.

P&T relief valve: This is the abbreviation for pressure and temperature relief valve (same as T&P).

PSI: This is an abbreviation for pounds per square inch.

Pressure loss: This is the term given for the loss of pressure that occurs whenever water moves through a pipe or when water moves uphill against the force of gravity. If the total pressure loss in a piping system exceeds the available static water pressure the water will not flow.

Pullout spray: This is a single-control kitchen faucet that offers a retractable hose and spray head to be used for food preparation and cleaning.

Public sewer: This is a common sewer directly controlled by the public authority.

Roman spout: This is a deck-mounted faucet spout.

Rough-in: This is the installation of the drainage, waste, vent, and supply lines in a home in accordance with the plumbing plan.

Rough-in dimensions: This is the distance from a framed wall to the center of the waste, supply opening, or mounting holes on a plumbing fixture.

SN: This is an abbreviation for satin nickel finish.

SS: This is an abbreviation for stainless steel.

STD: This is an abbreviation for the term “standard.”

Sanitary sewer: This is the house drain that carries wastewater away from the house to a sewer system or septic tank.

Self-rimming sink: This is a sink with no metal ring that has a built-in lip of the same material, which supports it in the vanity top. This is also known as a drop-in sink.

Service sink: This is a deep fixed basin, supplied with hot and cold water, which is used for rinsing mops, disposing cleaning water, or washing clothes and other household items.

Sewer gas: These are gases, especially methane, that may be combustible and poisonous from the decay of organic materials in the sewer system.

Shutoff valve: This usually refers to the angle stops installed under sinks and toilets, but also valves installed on branch lines and alongside the meter.

Soil pipe: This is a sewer pipe for carrying off waste from toilets.

Soil stack: This is the largest vertical drain line to which all branch waste lines connects. This line carries waste to the sewer line.

Stainless steel sink: These are sinks made of solid stainless material. They are durable and immune to rust and corrosion. The gauge measures the thickness of the steel, with a lower number indicating thicker steel. Their underside is often sprayed with a rubberized undercoating to provide a sound-deadening barrier, eliminate condensation, and reduce heat transfer.

Stub-out: These are short lengths of pipe installed during rough-in to which fixtures and drains will eventually be installed.

Supply stop: This is the valve controlling water supply to a toilet.

Trip lever: This is the flush handle and actuating arm on a toilet tank. This is also the lever that opens and closes the drain on the bathtub waste and overflow.

Two-piece toilet: This is a toilet with a separate tank and bowl. This is also referred to as a close-coupled toilet.

Type-L tube: This is an industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by blue markings. The type-L copper tube wall is approximately 50% greater thickness than type-M.

Uniform plumbing code: This is a system of procedures designed to provide consumers with safe and sanitary plumbing systems and used throughout the United States by local jurisdictions.

Utility sink: This is a deep fixed basin, supplied with hot and cold water, which is used for rinsing mops and disposing cleaning water.

Vacuum breaker: This is an anti-siphon device that prevents the backflow of contaminated water into the water supply system.

Vitreous china: These are ceramic materials fired at a high temperature to form a nonporous body, having exposed surfaces coated with ceramic glaze fused to the body. This is used to form bathroom fixtures such as toilets, bidets, and lavs.

WC: This is an abbreviation for a water closet.

Waste and overflow drain: This is an assembly for a bathtub. The outlet at the top removes the overflow water during tub filling and the drain at the bottom removes wastewater when the tub is drained.

Water closet: This is a term for a toilet.

Water hammer: This is a loud banging noise caused by the hydraulic shock of suddenly shutting off a water supply, where water moves against the side of a containing pipe or vessel.

Water hammer arrestor: This is a device installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock caused by a sudden shutoff of water.

Other decisions concerning plumbing are as follows:

Is the water system going to be zoned? If so, how?

Where are the locations of the manifolds if installing the PEX system?

What are the types and locations of water heaters? Tankless water heaters require different plumbing than a tank type.

What are the desired heights of showerheads? Obviously, someone who is over six feet tall will have a different requirement than someone who is only five feet tall.

How many, what type, and where are the locations going to be for body jets and/or sprayers? Once again, different heights of people will require different locations.

Are there any faucets that are going to be wall mounted?

Are there going to be any pedestal lavatories?

What brand of faucet are you using in the showers? The plumber needs to have this information in order to have the correct mixing valve present on the job site during the rough-in. This is the one faucet that needs to be determined ahead of time.

If any of these mentioned items are different than what was originally on the blueprint, then the builder and/or the subcontractor need to be notified before the rough-in plumbing begins. All of these installations require different plumbing than what we may think of as the norm.

I think you have the idea now about the plumbing issues. You are not expected to be a plumber, but you are expected to make plumbing decisions.

Figure 385-Photo of tankless water heater adjacent to Water manifold-Chamber’s residence

Figure 386-Photo of zoned PEX system

The following photos show several types of plumbing installations which include the rough in plumbing for a water softener, water lines in exterior wall that were insulated, and nail guard plates protecting the plumbing as it passes through framing.

Figure 387-Photo of rough in plumbing for water softener at left-Chamber’s residence

The photo at the right show insulated water lines in exterior walls and nail guards.

Figure 388-Photo of insulated water lines in exterior wall at right-Chamber’s residence

This photo shows how a joist was cut in the center 1/3 of its width in order to let a sewer line pass through. Great care and careful supervision must be done in order that the cuts, notches, and borings are in compliance with IRC.

Figure 389-Photo of joist with cutout to install sewer line at left-Chamber’s residence

The photo at the right shows interior hot and cold water lines as well as a vent pipe being protected with nail guards. The installation of these guards cannot be overemphasized.

Figure 390-Photo of nail guards protecting plumbing at right-Chamber’s residence

Supervision checklist for rough plumbing installations:

*Have you walked through the home with the plumber to make sure that there are no problems with being able to install the rough plumbing as planned?

*What type of water system is going to be installed? PEX or copper? (If copper, Type-L would be best.)

*Have the centering dimensions for the rough-in plumbing been checked? This is especially critical if there’s going to be a pedestal lav installed.

*Is the plumbing system going to be zoned? If so, how is it going to zoned? Always check with the customer to make sure they are in agreement as to how the zones will be split.

*Where are the water heaters going to be located? If the water heaters are going to be tankless, you want them in close proximity to the PEX manifolds. Easy access is essential to all the systems.

*If a natural or LP gas tank type water heater is located in the garage, it must be elevated 18 inches off the floor.

*All water heaters should have a temperature pressure relief valve installed on them.

*Where are the manifold control boxes going to be located?

*Have all showerhead, body jet, and sprayer locations been discussed?

*Are there going to be any overhead showerheads?

*Do you know what brand of faucet is going to be installed in the showers? If you do, have the mixing valves been ordered to be on the job during rough-in?

*Have all the tubs that were installed during the rough-in fitting tightly in the rough opening? If not, some additional wall furring may be required. The rough opening should only be 1/2 inch larger than the length of the tub otherwise this can create some wall finishing problems.

*Have all the tubs that were installed during the rough-in been protected with plywood? The best protection is to have the plumber cut a piece of CDX plywood that will fit on top of the tub. This will protect the tub from damage and accumulating debris that might get into the drain.

*Have all required nail guards been installed to protect DWV, gas, and water lines that pass perpendicular through any framing?

*Has any required fire stopping been installed around water and DWV lines where they pass through plates?

*Have all the exterior hose bibs been plumbed in? At least one hose bib should be activated with water.

*Have all water lines and DWV lines been secured?

*Have all of the vent lines and flue pipe penetrating through the roof been installed straight? Nothing looks worse than to have these installations cockeyed. It would give the appearance of sloppiness.

*Have all of the roof jacks been installed on the vent lines? The best roof jacks to use are the ones made from lead. The cheesy plastic jacks with the rubber seal in the center will start to leak after the rubber seal starts to deteriorate from the sun.

*Are all vents from water heaters secured with a minimum of a two-inch clearance to any combustible material?

*Are all the DWV lines and water lines contained behind the face of the studs?

*Has the plumbing system been pressure tested for leaks in advance of covering it up with insulation?

*Have all the water lines in the exterior walls, crawl spaces, and attics been properly insulated?

*Have all the gas lines been installed within five feet of the appliances and terminated with a shutoff valve?

*Have the gas lines been tested for any leaks?

*Is the customer going to have any commercial-type gas appliances that require a higher gas volume requirement than normal? If so, the main gas line coming into the house may need to be larger. Do not assume anything. This should have been addressed before the job even started.

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the plumber receives his rough plumbing draw.

*Has the plumbing contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Schedule installation of entertainment wiring rough-in. This is normally a 1 day installation.

2. Schedule installation of security wiring rough-in. This is normally a 1 day installation. (Ref page 94 items 38, 39)

3. Schedule exterior painting. This should be applied after any siding and trim is installed but before brick or any other stone veneers are installed. This is normally a 1 to 3 day operation

4. Schedule framing termite treatment. This should be applied after all rough-ins are complete and house has been cleaned out of all wood cuttings, sawdust, dirt, or other debris. This is a 1 day installation. (Ref page 95 item #41)

5. Schedule installation of insulation. This should be go in after any framing termite treatment is complete. This is a 1 to 3 day installation depending upon the type of insulation.

6. Schedule installation of drywall. This should be installed after insulation is complete. This is normally a 1 1/2 weeks to 2 1/2 weeks installation depending upon the size of the home, ceiling heights, complexity etc. (Ref pages 96-98 items #42, 43)

35-ROOFING

Maybe you are wondering why we install the roof at this point. The reason is simple. I want the HVAC and the plumbing contractors to penetrate the roof decking with all of their vent and flue pipes etc.

These contractors are not roofers. You cannot expect them to do a proper flashing job around their pipes etc. You are asking for trouble if you install the roof first before these penetrations are made. Trust me on this one. Make all penetrations first, install roof second—period.

There are many different types of roofing, as we discussed in Chapter 3. Our discussion will focus on composition shingles, which are used more extensively than any other kind. If you are going to be installing something else, then you will want to research all the facts (pros and cons) before you make your decision. Always follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions so as not to void the manufacturer’s warranty. The installation of roofing will protect the structure and all its contents. This is an important part of the job, but I see it done wrong many times. A good roofer will take the time to make sure his courses are straight and the shingles have a uniform exposure. He will also do a neat job of trimming the shingles where they might hang over the drip edge. Familiarize yourself with the roofing terms.

GLOSSARY OF ROOFING TERMS

Algae: a rooftop fungus that can leave dark stains on roofing

Angled fasteners: roofing nails and staples driven into decks at angles not parallel to the deck

Apron flashing: metal flashing used at chimney fronts

Asphalt: bituminous waterproofing agent used in various types of roofing materials

Asphalt plastic: a cement asphalt-based sealant material, meeting ASTM d4586 type I or II, and used to seal and adhere to roofing materials (also known as “mastic,” “blackjack,” “roof tar,” “bull”)

Back surfacing: a granular material added to the shingle’s back to assist in keeping separate during delivery and storage

Blistering: bubbles or pimples in roofing materials, usually moisture related (In shingles, blisters are caused by either moisture under the material or moisture trapped inside the material.)

Blow-offs: occurs when shingles are subjected to high winds and are forced off a roof deck

Buckling: the effect of a wrinkle or ripple in shingles or their underlayments

Closed-cut valley: a shingle valley installation method where one roof plane’s shingles completely cover the other’s (top layer is cut to match the valley lines)

Counter flashing: the metal or siding material that is installed and lapped over rooftop base flashing systems

Cricket: a peaked water diverter installed behind chimneys and other large roof projections

Cupping: a condition when shingles are improperly installed over an existing roof or are overexposed, forming a curl or cup (may also be due to a manufacturing defect)

Deck: the substrate over which roofing is applied, usually plywood, wood boards, or planks

Drip edge: a strip of metal flashing that is installed to keep shingles up off the deck at the edges and extends shingles out over eaves and gutters, preventing water from curling back under the shingles

Exposure: the area of any roofing material that is left exposed to the elements

Fasteners: the nails or staples used to secure roofing to the deck

Flange: the metal pan extending up or down a roof slope around flashing pieces, usually installed at chimneys and around plumbing vents

Flashing: materials used to waterproof a roof around any projection

Flashing cement: sealant designed for use around flashing areas, typically thicker than plastic cement

Flashing collar (roof jack/flashing boot): an accessory used to cover and/or seal soil pipe vents and other penetrations through the roof

Granules: crushed rock that is coated with a ceramic coating and fired, used as the top surface on shingles

Hand-sealing: the method used to ensure sealing of shingles on very steep slopes, in high wind areas, and when installing in cold weather

High-nailing: when shingles are nailed or fastened above the manufacturer’s specified nail location

Ice dam: when a snow load melts on a roof and refreezes at the eave areas, forcing water to “back up” under shingles and cause leakage

L-flashing: continuous metal flashings consisting of several feet of metal, used at horizontal walls and bent to resemble an “L”

Laminated shingles: shingles made from two separate pieces that are laminated together

Laps: the areas where roll roofing or rolled underlayment’s overlap one another during application

Low slopes: roof pitches less than 4/12 (These are considered low-sloped roofs. Special installation practices must be used on roofs sloped 3/12–4/12. Shingles cannot be installed at slopes less than 3/12 without voiding the manufacturer’s warranty.)

Mats: the general term for the base material of shingles and certain rolled products

Modified bitumen: a rolled roofing membrane with polymer-modified asphalt and either polyester or fiberglass reinforcement

Nail guideline: the painted line on laminated shingles, to aid in the proper placement of fasteners

Nail-pop: a condition that occurs when a nail is not fully driven and sits up off the roof deck

Nesting: the technique of installing a second layer of shingles aligning courses with the original roof to avoid shingle cupping

Open valley: a valley installation using rolled valley metal down the center of the valley

Overdriven: the term used for fasteners driven through roofing material with too much force, thus breaking the material

Overexposed: installing shingle courses higher than their intended exposure

Racking: the method of installing shingles in a straight-up-the-roof manner

Ridge cap: a material or covering applied over the ridge of a roof

Ridge course: the last or top course of roofing materials, such as tile, roll roofing, etc., that covers the ridge and overlaps the intersecting field roofing

Ridge vent: a ventilator located at the ridge that allows the escape of warm and/or air from the attic area or rafter cavity (most are either metal or flexible, shingle-over type)

Roof louvers: exhaust vents mounted on the rooftop (also known as “box vents,” “mushroom vents,” “airhawks,” and “soldier vents”)

Self-sealant: a factory-installed sealant on shingles (After installation, heat and sun will activate the sealant to seal the shingles to each other.)

Sidewalls: where a vertical roof plane meets a vertical wall (the sides of dormers, etc.)

Soffit ventilation: intake ventilation installed under the eaves

Starter strip: the first course of roofing installed

Step flashing: metal flashing pieces installed at sidewalls and chimneys for weatherproofing

Tab: the bottom portion of a traditional shingle separated by the shingle cutouts

Telegraphing: when shingles reflect the uneven surface beneath them (e.g., shingles installed over buckled roof decking may show buckles)

Under-driven: a term used to describe a fastener not fully driven flush to the shingles surface

Underlayments: asphalt-based rolled materials designed to be installed under main roofing material to serve as added protection

Valleys: an area where two adjoining sloped roof planes intersect on a roof, creating a V-shaped depression

Woven valleys: the method of installing valleys by laying one shingle over the other up the valley center

Supervision checklist for roofing material:

*Have all the shingles been ordered? This should also include enough for cut and waste factors.

*Have all the starter shingles, ridge cap, and hip cap shingles been ordered?

*Has all of the drip cap been ordered?

*Have the roofing nails and matching spray paint been ordered?

Supervision checklist for roofing:

*Did you make sure that all roof penetrations are complete before installing the roof?

*Has all the drip edge been installed neatly? Where they seem to make a mess out of it is at the corners of the roof.

*Have the valley linings been installed in accordance with manufacturer’s installation instructions before applying shingles?

*Are the courses of shingles straight? You probably cannot see this from the ground, but you can tell if they are using a technique that will create a straight course. One method is to snap chalk lines every so many courses.

Figure 391- Photo of vent pipe and flue pipes that have been spray painted-Chamber’s residence

*Is the roofer fastening the shingles with roofing nails versus staples? Never let a roofer fasten shingles with staples. I couldn’t think of a faster way to void the manufacturer’s warranty. They do not have the surface-holding power like a roofing nail. Many times, the staple is over driven into the shingle because the air pressure is set too high on the compressor.

*Have all the required step flashings, sidewall flashings, and chimney flashings been installed? This is important, as it is the only installation that prevents water leaks at these critical points.

*Have all the ridge vents or other types of exhaust venting been installed? These are the only venues we have of getting air to escape. For some areas of the country, you may want to consider installing solar-powered vents.

*If skylights are being installed, is the roofer flashing them in with the flashing kits that come with the skylights? The flashing kits are an optional cost item but are well worth it. Every time I’ve let the roofer fabricate his own flashing around skylights, I have gotten into problems.

*Have all of the roof jacks been installed over the protruding roof vents? I still prefer lead roof jacks that have wide-base flanges. The aluminum jacks with the rubber sleeves are okay for a while, until the rubber starts to crack from weatherization. Then water will be allowed to penetrate into the attic.

*Have the overhanging shingles been cut off neatly? Even small things like this can improve the appearance of the roof.

*Have all the loose nails and debris been removed from the roof?

*Did the roofer spray paint all of the vent pipes, flue pipes, roof jacks, etc. with matching spray paint? This is the sign of a consciences roofer.

*Has the roofer cleaned up his debris from around the house? This should be required as a condition for payment.

ROOF VENTILATION-subcategory of roofing

This is an area in homebuilding where things can start to go wrong. Is roof ventilation really that important? Most of the time, it is very important in all parts of the country to have a proper balance of intake and exhaust ventilation function. I said most of the time because attic ventilation is not required in homes where Icynene foam insulation is installed on the underside of the roof sheathing. What are some of the issues of inadequate ventilation? Lack of ventilation can cause an excessive amount of condensation, ice damming, and entrapped heat. The end result can lead to rotting of attic framing elements, mold, degradation of attic insulation, rusting of mechanical equipment, and an increase in energy costs.

There are conflicting formulas as to the minimum amount of required ventilation, so let’s approach it from this angle: When it comes to attic ventilation, more is better than less, if the balance is correct. We’ll expound on this in just a moment. A good basic formula is to provide 1 ½ square inches of ventilation for each one square foot of attic floor area. Let’s try out this example: How much ventilation is required for a one-story home with 3,000 square feet of attic area. The next step is to multiply 3,000 x 1.5 = 4,500 total square inches of combined intake and exhaust. The trick is how we divide that number up. The objective is to maintain a positive-to-negative pressure airflow. Air entering in the soffits is under positive pressure. Air exhausting through the ridge vents is under negative pressure. If the balance is in reverse, then there’s a static condition. The attic will never ventilate no matter how many vents you have. Based on decades of experience, I suggest you divide the total ventilation up into a 60/40 split—60% (2,700 square inches) would be the intake, 40% (1,800 square inches) would be the exhaust. There is a reason for doing this, which I will explain at the end of the conversation. Sounds pretty simple, doesn’t it? Not so fast! There are more issues that can muck up the equation.

Issue #1: The limitations of the physical vent itself

The nominal size of the vent does not represent the net-free air opening in the vent. For example, an 8” x 16” soffit vent equals 128 square inches. That number, however, is not the net-free air opening. That number is actually closer to 27 square inches per vent. Why is this? Look at the way the vent is made. There are generally three rows of vent slots in each vent. Air is only going to be able to flow through the slots. That means that most of the vent is solid metal. In the example we put forth, it would take a minimum of 100 actual vents equally spaced in the eaves to provide the amount of intake ventilation. On the exhaust side of the equation, if ridge vents are being used, you are going to have 18 square inches of ventilation per lineal foot of vent (including both sides of the ridge.) In our example, you need 100 lineal feet of ridge vent in order to provide enough net-free exhaust air. Always be cognizant of the physical limitations of any vent. Got it? Good.

Okay Sandy, so if I’m careful with the type of vents I’m using, and I provide enough of them, and I install them per the equation you suggested, does that mean I have the ventilation problems whipped? Not so fast! There’s one more issue that needs to be dealt with.

Issue #2: The restriction of flowing air

Several problems, such as blocking the airflow between the rafters/ceiling joists with insulation or clogging up the soffit vent holes with insulation from inside, will stop the ventilation process immediately.

You might as well not have even gone through the exercise of installing the vents if you are going to let this happen. There are baffles (chutes) made from Styrofoam or plastic that can be installed between the rafters and extend into the soffit area that will prevent the insulation from stopping airflow.

STOP RIGHT HERE! Many of these baffles have too small of an opening going through them that will decrease the volume of air. It is imperative that you install a baffle in every rafter space. The most violated area for air restriction is where the roof meets the exterior wall. Another restrictor of intake air is accumulated multiple coats of paint over the soffit vents which clog up the vent holes. In time, this could have a significant impact on air movement.

We have to make you aware that installing cathedral ceilings can be very problematic for ventilation. It is imperative that the rafters are sized in order to leave at least 1 ½ inches of air space over the top of any insulation that is going to be installed.

Now we are at that point where I said I would explain the reasoning for the 60/40 ventilation split. I said earlier that you must maintain a positive pressure (intake) to negative pressure (exhaust). Technically, a ratio of 51/49 would work, except for the fact that when you introduce the restrictions of the actual vents themselves, coupled with the insulation and painting factors, then you would wind up with a static pressure condition. When you start with a 60/40 split, you may, indeed, wind up with a 53/47 or a 56/44 split after the mentioned influences play their part.

Here is the final word: You do whatever it takes to keep anyone or anything from restricting the full movement of air from the intake vent to the exhaust vent. If that means you take control of the insulator, then do it. If it means that you make your own baffles, so be it. Use your imaginative resources.

Oops, I almost forgot another question I get often. “Are electric power roof vents a viable choice?” My answer in a word is no. Power vents do not draw air equitably through all soffit vents when they are working. In time, many of the motor windings in the power vent will rust and ultimately stop working.

Here is the real kicker; why would you spend money on electricity, to run a vent fan, in order to reduce the heat gain coming through the insulation, in order to save money on electricity? I’m sorry, I don’t get it. I hear comments that people do not want the vents because they believe they are unsightly. I don’t know who is kidding whom. You have one good opportunity to make this process right while the home is under construction. To ignore the importance of proper ventilation is to do so at the risk of internal degradation, your health, and your money. I guess you could look at it from the standpoint that you will be giving a repairman or carpenter some future business if you don’t do it right now.

Supervision checklist for ventilation:

*Has the proper equation of air distribution been determined? Remember, this is based on the square footage of the attic area.

*Have enough vents been installed to achieve the proper balance? Don’t forget to take into consideration the physical limitations of the vents, as we discussed.

*Have any vents been installed that might affect the proper flow of air? For example: You have soffit vents and ridge vents in the proper proportion but you decide to install gable end vents as well, what happens? You short circuited the system. Air will be inducted through the gable vents and out the ridge vents. You have bypassed the soffit vents so the hottest part of the roof is not being vented. Remember this; air will take the path of least resistance. Solution: Close up or remove the gable vents.

*Have the airways from the soffit to the exhaust vent been left open without restricting air movement? If this isn’t done, all other actions are meaningless.

*Have you maintained a positive to negative pressure flow? Remember that the soffit vents are under positive pressure and the roof vents are under negative pressure.

*Is the home going to have Icynene insulation installed? If it is, there will be no ventilation of any type. The HVAC contractor will be installing a fresh air intake vent that will bring fresh air to the furnace.

36-CENTRAL VACUUM ROUGH-IN

Scheduling-Most central vacuum rough-in installations take 1 to 2 days

You, as the supervisor, work with the installer to make sure that there are no issues with the framing or otherwise. The supervisor should always meet the contractor on the first day to review any layout work and discuss the installation in general. The supervisor has to be as knowledgeable with the system as the installer is.

Figure 392-Illustration of typical central vacuum installation

Plan Ahead

Planning is the key to the successful installation of a central vacuum system. A balance between the best locations for the inlet valves and the practicality of installing in these locations must be obtained. With a little ingenuity, most locations can be reached.

The Power Unit Location

The power unit can be located in the garage, basement, utility room, or any other area that is dry and remote enough that living areas will not be affected by the sound of the electric within three feet of an electrical outlet. Electrical specifications of the power unit should be checked to avoid overloading the circuit. The unit should be mounted so that it is out of the way but still accessible for emptying. If the system is to be exhausted to the outdoors, the power unit should be located on an exterior wall. Venting to areas such as patios and entranceways should be avoided. Vacuums must breath…Do not enclose. If the unit is to be located in a closet or utility room, it must be vented. Louvered doors fulfill this purpose. A muffler can, of course, be used to minimize noise.

Inlet Valve Locations

Correctly positioned inlet valves will ensure trouble-free vacuuming over the many years of service that will be received from a central vacuum system. The hose must be able to reach every corner of the house and go around furniture to get there. Drapes, closets, and ceiling corners all must be reached. Central locations such as hallways, beside doors, and adjacent to the bottom of staircases are ideal. Areas such as behind furniture or behind doors should be avoided. A 30-foot string or the hose itself can be used to help plan the layout. If working with quarter-scale blueprints a seven-inch string can be used to represent the hose. If an electric beater brush is to be used at present or in the future, the inlet valve should be located within five feet of an electrical outlet. Air-turbine-driven beater brush heads do not require electricity and thus allow more flexibility when choosing inlet valve locations.

The amount of airflow that reaches the hose is dependent on the efficiency of the layout of the tubing system. Lines are to be kept as straight as possible. Tight 90-degree fillings are to be used only at inlet valve locations and Sweep 90s should be used in all other applications.

Trunk Line

The trunk line connects the farthest inlet valve to the power unit. Branch lines flowing into the trunk line will connect all other inlet valves. If the basement is unfinished, the trunk line is best run beneath the joists in the basement ceiling. The upper floors can be accessed through closets, cold-air return ducts, or in partition walls. Alternatively, the trunk line could run straight up to the attic and service the floors beneath by branch lines dropping through closet ceilings or partition walls. The location of the trunk line will greatly depend on the construction of the house and the location of the power unit.

Branch Line

Branch lines join the remaining inlet valves to the trunk line. As with the trunk line, these lines should be kept as straight as possible. Forty-five degree fittings should be used to avoid sharp corners (90-degree fittings) when possible. Airflow direction should always be considered when installing branch lines.

Avoid Gravity Drops

A branch line located directly below an overhead trunk line will accumulate dirt due to the effects of gravity. The result will be a pile of dirt at the base of the inlet valve every time it is opened. To avoid this situation, the following technique should be used. Install a short (12-inch) horizontal line from the connection fitting to a 90-degree fitting and then to the branch line.

Low-Voltage Wire

One of the greatest benefits of central vacuum systems is that the power unit is turned on and off automatically. Every power unit has an on/off switch that is activated by completing a circuit at the inlet valves. Simply inserting the hose in the inlet valve turns on the power unit. To facilitate this, low voltage wire must follow the tubing system. At the junction of a branch line and the trunk line, the wires can be spliced together as demonstrated in the figure. There must be an uninterrupted route from each inlet valve to the power unit. The wire should be attached to the tubing with the wire ties at least every four feet. On MD AirForce there is no need for a low-voltage wire.

Cutting and Cementing PVC Tubing and Fittings

Measuring: When sizing a length of tube, measurements should be taken from the base of the pipestop on the inside of the fitting. As each section of tubing is cut, it should be dry-fitted before the next measurement is taken.

Cutting: The tubing should be cut as straight and square as possible. A miter box should be used if available. All rough edges must be removed with a utility knife or coarse sandpaper.

Dry Fitting: Once all the pieces are cut, they should be dry-fitted to check for a correct fit. The markings on the fittings can be utilized to assure proper alignment.

Gluing: PVC solvent cement actually welds the fitting to the tubing. A chemical reaction permanently joins the molecules from each surface to produce an airtight seal.

Before cementing, both the tubing and the fitting must be free of PVC burrs, dirt, and grime. The components should be wiped with a clean cloth, if necessary. Cement should be applied to the tubing only, as cement applied to the fitting will be pushed ahead and create a rough bead on the inside of the fitting. This bead will reduce airflow and could cause a clog. The tubing should be inserted all the way into the fitting and twisted a quarter turn to evenly distribute the cement. All excess cement should be removed with a rag. The glue should be allowed several hours to set before the vacuum system is used.

The preceding installation information is compliments of M.D. Manufacturing Central Vacuum Systems website centralvacuum.com.

Supervision checklist for central vacuum installations:

*Have you gone over the layout with the installer and customer at the same time? This includes the location of the power unit. This is a good idea unless you like tearing out and relocating pipe.

*Has the tubing been cut and fitted properly?

*Is the power unit properly exhausted? These units have to breathe. They cannot be enclosed.

*Have the inlet valves been properly located? Read the above information on how this is accomplished.

*Has the required low-voltage wire been installed?

*Has the system been installed without gravity drops? Review the correction technique.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

37-ELECTRICAL ROUGH-IN

This is another system installation that is very supervision intensive, as you will see in the information following the glossary of electrical terms. Take time to briefly review the following glossary of terms before getting into the specifics.

GLOSSARY OF ELECTRICAL TERMS

Accessible: (As applied to equipment.) Admitting close approach; not guarded by locked doors, elevation or other effective means.

Accessible: (As applied to wiring methods.) Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish, or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building.

Accessible, readily: Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal or inspections, without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to climb over or remove obstacles or to resort to portable ladders, etc.

Alternating current (AC): This is electric current that changes direction with a regular frequency.

Alternator: This is an electric generator designed to produce alternating current. This usually consists of rotating parts, which cause the changing magnetic field to produce the alternating current.

Ambient temperature: This is the surrounding temperature of an area.

American wire gauge (AWG): This is a standard measure that represents the size of wire; the larger the number, the smaller the wire.

Ampacity: This is the amount of current, in amperes, that a conductor can carry continuously under the conditions of use without exceeding its temperature rating.

Ampere: This is a type of electric current produced by one volt applied across a resistance of one ohm. It is also equal to the flow of one coulomb per second.

Appliance: This is utilization equipment, generally built in standardized sizes or types. These are installed to perform functions such as clothes washing, air-conditioning, food mixing, deep frying, etc.

Arc-fault circuit interrupter: A device intended to provide protection from the effects of arc-faults by recognizing characteristics unique to arcing and by functioning to de-energize the circuit when an arc-fault is detected.

Bare: A conductor having no covering or electrical insulation whatsoever.

Branch circuit: This is the circuit conductors between the final over-current device protecting the circuit and the outlet(s).

Branch circuit, appliance: This is a branch circuit that supplies energy to one or more outlets to which appliances are to be connected and that has no permanently connected lightning fixtures that are not a part of an appliance.

Branch circuit, general purpose: A branch circuit that supplies two or more receptacle outlets or outlets for lighting and appliances.

Branch circuit, individual: A branch circuit that supplies only one piece of utilization equipment.

Branch circuit, multiwire: A branch circuit consisting of two or more ungrounded conductors having voltage difference between them, and a grounded conductor having equal voltage difference between it and each ungrounded conductor of the circuit, and that is connected to the neutral or grounded conductor of the system.

Brownout: This is a reduction in voltage and/or power when demand for electricity exceeds generating capacity. The term brownout is misleading because customers generally do not notice the reduction, except when it affects sensitive electronic equipment.

Circuit breaker: This is a device designed to open and close a circuit by nonautomatic means and to open the circuit automatically on a predetermined over-current without damage to itself when properly applied within its rating.

Circuit extensions: This is a term to extend or add on to an existing circuit to provide an additional power source.

Code corrections: This is a procedure designed to eliminate wiring conditions that do not meet National Electrical Code requirements and safety conditions.

Compact fluorescent lamps (CFL): These fluorescent lamps are small and designed to fit in regular lamp sockets. They do require a special fixture. The electronic ballast-based fluorescents are more efficient and produce better light than the older magnetic ballast models.

Conductor:

Bare: A conductor having no covering or electrical insulation whatsoever.

Covered: A conductor encased within material of composition or thickness that is not recognized by this code as electrical insulation.

Insulated: A conductor encased within material of composition and thickness that is recognized by this code as electrical insulation.

Connector, pressure (solderless): A device that establishes a connection between two or more conductors or between one or more conductors and a terminal by means of mechanical pressure and without the use of solder.

Copper-clad aluminum conductors: Conductors drawn from a copper-clad aluminum rod with the copper metallurgically bonded to an aluminum core. The copper forms a minimum of 10 percent of the cross-sectional area of a solid conductor or each strand of a stranded conductor.

Cutout box: An enclosure designed for surface mounting and having swinging doors or covers secured directly to and telescoping with the walls of the box proper (see “Cabinet”).

Covered: This is a conductor encased within material of composition and thickness that is NOT recognized by this code as electrical insulation.

Continuous load: This is a load where the maximum current is expected to continue for three hours or more.

Controller: This is a device or group of devices that serves to govern, in some predetermined manner, the electric power delivered to the apparatus to which it is connected.

Current: This is the flow of electricity commonly measured in amperes.

Dead front: Without live parts exposed to a person on the operating side of the equipment.

Dedicated circuit: This is an electrical circuit for one particular device.

Demand factor: The ratio of the maximum demand of a system, or part of a system, to the total connected load of a system or the part of the system under consideration.

Device: This is a unit of an electrical system that is intended to carry but not utilize electric energy.

Disconnecting means: A device, or group of devices, or other means by which the conductors of a circuit can be disconnected from their source of supply.

Direct current (DC): This is a circuit in which the flow of electrons is in one direction only, from anode to cathode.

Distribution equipment: This is a device designed to provide electricity to multiple connections.

Enclosed: Surrounded by a case, housing, fence or walls that will prevent persons from accidentally contacting energized parts.

Enclosure: The case or housing of apparatus, or the fence or walls surrounding an installation, to prevent personnel from accidentally contacting energized parts or to protect the equipment from physical damage.

Energized: Electrically connected to, or is, a source of voltage.

Energy saving devices: These are devices utilized within a dwelling designed to more efficiently make use of energy sources while providing heating, cooling, and light.

Energy efficiency ratio (EER): This is the ratio of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner, in Btu per hour, to the total electrical input in watts under test conditions specified by the Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute.

Equipment: This is a general term including materials, fittings, devices, appliances, fixtures, apparatus, and the like used as a part of, or in connection with, an electrical installation.

Exposed: (As applied to live parts) Capable of being inadvertently touched or approached nearer than a safe distance by a person. It is applied to parts not suitably guarded, isolated or insulated.

Externally operable: Capable of being operated without exposing the operator to contact with live parts.

Fault: This is a short circuit in an electrical system.

Feeder: All circuit conductors between the service equipment, or the source of a separately derived system, or other power supply source and the final branch circuit overcurrent device.

Fixture: The physical item referred to as a “lamp” (i.e., “table lamp” or “floor lamp”) is called the fixture by the lighting industry.

Fluorescent lamps: Fluorescent lamps produce light by passing electricity through a gas, causing it to glow. The gas produces ultraviolet light; a phosphor coating on the inside of the lamp absorbs the ultraviolet light and produces visible light. Fluorescent lamps produce much less heat than incandescent lamps and are more energy efficient. Linear fluorescent lamps are used in long, narrow fixtures designed for such lamps. Compact fluorescent light bulbs have been designed to replace incandescent light bulbs in table lamps, floodlights, and other fixtures.

Ground (wire): This is a conducting connection, whether intentional or accidental, between an electrical circuit or equipment and the earth, or to some conducting body that serves in place of the earth.

Grounded: This is a term that means connected to earth or to some conducting body that serves in place of the earth.

Ground-fault circuit-interrupter: A device intended for the protection of personnel that functions to deenergize a circuit or portion thereof within an established period of time when a current to ground exceeds the value for a Class A device.

Horsepower: This is a unit of power equal to 746 watts.

Impulse: This is a current surge.

Incandescent light bulbs: Incandescent light bulbs produce light by passing electricity through a thin filament, which becomes hot and glows brightly. Incandescent light bulbs are less energy efficient than fluorescent lamps, because much of the electrical energy is converted to heat instead of light. The heat produced by these bulbs not only wastes energy, but can also make a building’s air-conditioning system work harder and consume more energy.

Interrupter: This is an element designed to interrupt specific currents under specified conditions.

Inverter: This is an electrical device that is designed to convert direct current into alternating current. This was originally done with rotating machines that produced true sine wave AC output. More recently, this conversion has been performed more economically and efficiently using solid-state electronics. However, except for the most expensive models, these devices usually do not produce perfect sine wave output. This sometimes can result in electromagnetic interference with other sensitive electronic devices.

Kilowatt (kW): This is the real power delivered to a load (W x 1,000 VA).

Kilowatt hour: This is a unit of energy or work equal to one kilowatt for one hour. This is abbreviated as kWh or KWH. This is the normal quantity used for metering and billing electricity customers. The price for a kWh varies from approximately 4–15 cents. At 100% conversion efficiency, one kWh is equivalent to about 4 fluid ounces of gasoline, 3/16 pound LP, 3 cubic feet natural gas, or 1/4 pound coal.

Lamp: The lighting industry uses the term lamp to refer to the source of light, the light bulb itself, not the fixture where the light bulb is located.

Limit switch: This is a switch that is operated by some part or motion of a power-driven machine or equipment to alter the electric circuit associated with the machine or equipment.

Live parts: These are electric conductors, buses, terminals, or components that are uninsulated or exposed and an electric shock hazard exists.

Load: This is the load of a transformer is the power, in kVA or volt-amperes, supplied by the transformer.

Loadbreak: This is the ability of a switching device to disconnect a load current without damage.

Load center: This is the source for all power to the home. All circuits originate from the “load center” or “service panel.” Circuit breakers are located within this panel.

Load factor: This represents how efficiently the electrical system capacity is being used. The higher the load factor, the higher the efficiency.

Load switching: This is a term for transferring the load from one source to another.

Location, damp: Location protected from weather and not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of moisture. Examples of such locations include partially protected locations under canopies, marquees, roofed open porches and like locations, and interior locations subject to moderate degrees of moisture, such as some basements, some barns and some cold-storage warehouses.

Location, dry: A location not normally subject to dampness or wetness. A location classified as dry may be temporarily subject to dampness or wetness, as in the case of a building under construction.

Location, wet: Installations underground or in concrete slabs or masonry in direct contact with the earth and locations subject to saturation with water or other liquids, such as vehicle-washing areas, and locations exposed to weather.

Luminaire: A complete lighting unit consisting of a light source such as a lamp or lamps together with the parts designed to position the light source and connect it to the power supply. A luminaire can include parts to protect the light source or the ballast or to distribute the light. A lampholder itself is not a luminaire.

Low voltage: This is a wiring system that provides power to some electronic devices operating on a voltage level much lower than the standard 110 volts. Such devices might be doorbells and thermostats.

Lumen: A lumen is the total amount of light emitted from a source. Lumens are typically used to rate the output of lamps.

Metal enclosed: This is a term meaning surrounded by a metal case of housing, usually grounded.

Metalclad: These are devices in which the conducting parts are entirely enclosed in a metal casing.

National Electrical Code (NEC): This is the code/guideline used for the safeguarding of people and property from hazards related to the use of electricity. Compliance with this code, along with proper maintenance, will result in an installation essentially free from hazard. The NEC was first developed in 1897 as a result of the efforts of various insurance, electrical, architectural, and allied interests. It is sponsored and regularly updated by the National Fire Protection Association.

Neutral: This is the junction point of the legs in a Wye circuit.

Neutral grounding resistor: This is a grounding device, the principal element of which is resistance, which is used to connect the neutral point of the transformer to earth.

Ohm: This is the unit of measure for resistance.

Outlet: This is a point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.

Overcurrent: Any current in excess of the rated current of equipment or the ampacity of a conductor. Such current might result from overload, short circuit or ground fault.

Overload: This is the operation of equipment in excess of normal, full-load rating, or of a conductor in excess of rated ampacity that, when it persists for a sufficient length of time, would cause damage or dangerous overheating. A fault, such as a short circuit or ground fault, is not an overload.

Overvoltage: This is voltage above the normal rated voltage or the maximum operating voltage of a device or circuit. A direct test overvoltage is a voltage above the peak of the line-alternating voltage.

Power: This is the rate at which work is performed or that energy is transferred. Electric power is commonly measured in watts or kilowatts. A power of 746 watts is equivalent to one horsepower.

Power outage: This is an interruption of power.

Power outlet: This is an enclosed assembly that may include receptacles, circuit breakers, fuse holders, fused switches, buses, and watt-hour meter-mounting means, intended to supply and control power to mobile homes, recreational vehicles, park trailers, or boats or to serve as a means for distributing power required to operate mobile or temporarily installed equipment.

Rainproof: This is term for that which is constructed, protected, or treated so as to prevent rain from interfering with the successful operation of the apparatus under specified test conditions.

Receptacles: These are the power sources located throughout the home that provide electricity where needed.

Service: These are the conductors and equipment for delivering electric energy from the serving utility to the wiring system of the premises served.

Service cable: These are service conductors made up in the form of a cable.

Service conductors: The conductors from the service point to the service disconnecting means.

Service conductors, overhead: The overhead conductors between the service point and the first point of connection to the service-entrance conductors at the building or other structure.

Service conductors, underground: The underground conductors between the service point and the first point of connection to the service-entrance conductors in a terminal box, meter, or other enclosure, inside or outside of the building wall. between the utility electric supply system and the service

Service drop: The overhead service conductors point.

Service-entrance conductors, overhead system: The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and a point usually outside of the building, clear of building walls, where joined by tap or splice to the service drop or overhead service conductors.

Service-entrance conductors, underground system: The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and the point of connection to the service lateral or underground service conductors.

Service equipment: The necessary equipment, usually consisting of a circuit breaker(s) or switch (es) and fuse(s), and their accessories, connected to the load end of the service conductors to a building or other structure, or an otherwise designated area, and intended to constitute the main control and cutoff of the supply.

Service lateral: The underground service conductors between the electric utility supply system and the service point.

Service point: The point of connection between the facilities of the serving utility and the premises wiring.

Smoke and carbon dioxide detectors: These are wall-and ceiling-mounted sensors located throughout the home used to alert occupants of deadly gases and smoke inside the home.

Switches:

General-use switch-A switch intended for use in general distribution and branch circuits. It is rated in amperes and is capable of interrupting its rated current at its rated voltage.

General-use snap switch-A form of general-use switch constructed so that it can be installed in device boxes or on box covers or otherwise used in conjunction with wiring systems recognized by this code.

Isolating switch-A switch intended for isolating an electric circuit from the source of power. It has no interrupting rating and is intended to be operated only after the circuit has been opened by some other means.

Motor-circuit switch-A switch, rated in horsepower that is capable of interrupting the maximum operating overload current of a motor of the same horsepower rating as the switch at the rated voltage.

Track/accent lighting: This is condition specific to lighting that meets special lighting requirements, providing variable lighting degrees of light and may distribute light in multiple directions.

Transfer switch: This is an electronic device that, under certain conditions, will disconnect from one power source and connect to another power source.

Ungrounded: Not connected to ground or to a conductive body that extends the ground connection.

Uninterruptible power supply (universal power supply): This is a device that provides a constant regulated voltage output in spite of interruptions of the normal power supply. It includes filtering circuits and is usually used to feed computers or related equipment that would otherwise shutdown on brief power interruptions.

Utilization equipment: Equipment that utilizes electric energy for electronic, electromechanical, chemical, heating, lighting or similar purposes.

Volt: This is the electrical potential difference or pressure across a one ohm resistance carrying a current of one ampere.

Volt ampere (VA): This is a unit of apparent power equal to the mathematical product of a circuit voltage and amperes. Here, apparent power is in contrast to real power. On AC systems the voltage and current will not be in phase if reactive power is being transmitted.

Watertight: Constructed so that moisture will not enter the enclosure under specified test conditions.

Waterproof: Constructed or protected so that exposure to the weather will not interfere with successful operation.

Watt: This is a unit of power equal to the rate of work represented by a current of one ampere under a pressure of one volt.

Wiring: This is a distribution network of wiring that conducts electricity to receptacles, switches, and appliances throughout the home to provide electricity where needed.

Figure 393-Illustration of typical electrical service panel

The electrical rough-in will be installed in compliance with the blueprints and electrical codes. If there’s a variance between the locations of electrical shown on the plans and the electrical code, the code will always supersede the plan.

Figure 394-Photo of homerun wiring to be installed service panel-Chamber’s residence

Figure 395-Photo of wiring installation Chamber’s residence

Supervision checklist for electrical rough-in:

*Has the size of the electrical service been determined by an electrical load analysis? A master electrician or an MEP (mechanical, electrical, and plumbing) engineer can perform this service.

*Have you walked through the house with the electrician to discuss the layout as it is drawn on the electrical plan?

*Has the electrician nailed on all the electrical boxes? The best approach is to have the electrician mount the boxes first before running any wire in them. This gives the customer time to review and approve the locations before committing to the wiring. I indicated to you in an earlier chapter that I prefer that the electrician be the first contractor in the home when framing is close to completion. He can nail on all the switch, outlet, and light boxes. He will also tack into place any recessed can lighting. This shows all the trades that follow where all the lighting is going to be located. This would keep the AC contractor from running an AC duct in the same joist space as where recessed can lighting has to go.

*Are all the lighting boxes and recessed cans installed in the right location? A couple of light boxes that you need to be careful of are the dining room and breakfast area ceiling lights. Because of future furniture placement, the lights may not be in the center. Always check with the customer about these and any other lighting locations.

*Have all the exterior outlet boxes, wall, ceiling, and roof overhang light boxes been installed and rough wired?

*Is the electrician using the proper size wiring? The author suggests using 12 gauge as the minimum size wiring in the home even though the electrical code would permit 14 gauge to be used. There are distinct advantages of doing this.

*Have you noticed any cuts in the wiring that need to be addressed? It is easy for mistakes to happen, and it is much easier to make corrections now than after everything is covered up.

*Are the smoke/carbon monoxide detectors wired in per code?

*Are the bathroom vent fans installed?

*Are the 120/240 volt lines and the telephone line installed in the elevator shaft, if applicable?

*Is the main ground wire attached to a properly embedded grounding rod?

*Has all of the home run wiring been stubbed to the area where the circuit breaker box will be located?

*Has the panel box been located in an area that makes it convenient to access it when necessary? The location of the service panel also needs to be in compliance with the National Electrical Code.

*Have arrangements been made to switch over to permanent house power? Once the exterior wall veneers are installed, the electrician can come back to install and make up the service panel. At that time he can install a couple of circuit breakers for a few interior outlets. These outlets will serve as building power for the rest of the project until it comes time for the final electrical work. The temporary power will be removed and the permanent power will be connected. At that point, the interior building outlets will be energized.

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be a requirement before the electrician receives the draw for rough-in electrical.

*Has the electrician cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule stucco installation if applicable.

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order any shop-built or factory made cabinets at this time. It may take weeks to get them in.

38-ENTERTAINMENT WIRING ROUGH-IN

Scheduling-It generally takes 1 to days to install the rough-in depending upon the complexity of the system and other mitigating factors.

In this phase of work, the homeowner has to have a lot of involvement with the layout requirements. The homeowner may be contracting with an entertainment company, or they may decide to do their own installations. No matter which way they decide to go, issues such as equipment location, speaker locations, and speaker wiring have to be worked out.

A lot of research and planning have to go into things like:

Which equipment should I buy?

What are the best cables and cable connectors to get?

How do we deal with the heat that is emitted from the equipment?

Where can we conceal the equipment?

Supervision checklist for entertainment system wiring:

*Have you scheduled the wiring to be installed after the electrical work is completed?

*Does any conduit need to be installed in the walls prior to insulation and drywall? This may be necessary in order to fish cables etc. later on to the equipment. Think this one through very carefully.

*As the supervisor, your involvement is to make yourself familiar with the proposed system layout. Locations of electrical outlets, lighting, and switches should have been worked out long ago with the electrician.

*You should take a few pictures of the locations of the system rough-in before it gets covered up with insulation.

39-SECURITY WIRING ROUGH-IN

Usually, in this phase of work, the security company installs all sensors, camera, monitor, and other system wiring. There is a growing trend toward people installing their own systems.

There are security issues that still need to be resolved, such as the following:

Is the system going to be using the phone line, or is it going to be wireless?

Are there going to be motion-sensing devices?

Are there going to be glass-breakage sensors?

Are there going to be surveillance cameras?

How many cameras will there be, and what are the locations of monitors?

Will the camera equipment be able to record?

Are there going to be speakers at the door to communicate with visitors?

You, as the supervisor, will probably not be in a position to answer any of these questions. It will be better to have the customer there during the rough wiring to answer them.

40-EXTERIOR PAINTING

Contrary to what you may read or hear, do not attempt to paint the outside of the home yourself. It is just not worth falling off a ladder and getting injured or worse. See interior painting for a complete glossary of terms.

The customer needs to supply the paint colors for the outside as soon as the painting contractor begins the preparation work.

I found it to be better to paint the exterior of the home, which includes overhangs and siding, before any other wall veneers are installed. This avoids the problem of paint splattering on the stone or brick.

Supervision checklist for exterior painting:

*All surfaces should be clean and dry.

*Paint only on a dry windless day.

*All windows and doors should be covered with painter’s plastic to protect from overspray.

*Use 50-year siliconized acrylic caulking.

*Use high-quality primer.

*Use high-quality paint.

*Always follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions to not void any warranties.

*Make sure the painter covers all the windows and doors if he is going to be using the paint sprayer.

*Did the painter clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

If you need advice, contact me at mastersguidetohomebuilding.com.

41-FRAMING TERMITE TREATMENT

Pest control professionals can use a variety of different wood treatments to help kill any existing termite colonies and prevent future ones from spouting up. Wood treatments include surface sprays, injected sprays and foams, and borate-treated wood. Pest control professionals use Borate wood treatments to prevent termite infestations and eliminate any existing termites in homes. Wood treatments include surface applications during the construction phase of homebuilding and wood injections and foams after a home is built. This treatment needs to be scheduled after all rough-in installations are complete. The house needs to be cleaned out thoroughly. Blow out all of the wood chips, sawdust, and residual dirt with a power leaf blower. The applicator will come in and spray all ground-level framing to about three feet high (see picture).

Supervision checklist for termite treatment:

*Has the house been thoroughly cleaned out?

*How long does it take for the treatment to dry?

*Is the applicator state licensed?

*Has the applicator provided you with the warranty information?

Figure 396-Spraying framing with termite treatment

Here is a suggestion that I tell all of my students about. This is the perfect time to walk around each room of the house and take pictures of the ceilings and walls. Record the photos. Make notes about which room you were in and a way of identifying each wall. There is going to come a time when you may need to do some internal repair work on electrical or plumbing. Perhaps you may want to do some remodeling and will have to tear into some walls. With the pictures, you have immediate knowledge of where the wiring and plumbing is hiding. These pictures could save a lot of time and needless surgery of the sheetrock.

42-INSULATION

GLOSSARY OF INSULATION TERMS

Air infiltration: Refers to outdoor air that enters a building through cracks or openings

Air exfiltration: Refers to indoor air that escapes to the outdoors.

Air-sealing: A weatherization strategy that reduces air leaks in a home, measured by blower door test readings. “Major air-sealing” includes sealing large openings between the heated/unheated spaces. “Minor air-sealing” includes sealing small air gaps with caulk, weather stripping, and gaskets.

Batt: Insulation that is pre-cut to a certain width.

Blanket: Uncut rolls of insulation; sometimes with a vapor-barrier treated paper backing. Water heater tank blankets are available for tank-type water heaters with little built-in insulation.

Blow-in loose-fill: Material (usually mineral wool or cellulose) used for pouring or blowing into the space to be insulated. Air is usually the blowing agent. It air seals simultaneously as it insulates.

Borate-treatment: Derived from the naturally-occurring mineral Boron, these natural salts are used as fire retardants, mold inhibitors, vermin and insect repellents in natural fiber insulation.

Dewpoint: The temperature at which air becomes saturated and gaseous water vapor condenses into liquid. When adding insulation and air-sealing, the wall dew point must be considered to avoid moisture build-up in the wall cavity. Moisture build-up can cause damage and health issues.

Cementitious foam: This foam, the consistency of dry shaving cream, is made from magnesium oxide from sea water (brine) and blown-in place with air. It is fire proof, inert, free of Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) and formaldehyde, mold resistant, insect and pest resistant. It air seals simultaneously as it insulates.

Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs): Chemicals used in refrigerants and aerosol propellants. When released in the air the chlorine in CFCs causes depletion of the ozone layer.

Fiberglass: Made of microfibers spun from molten glass, is usually pink or yellow in color and containing up to 40 percent recycled content. Batts can be paper-faced or un-faced.

Formaldehyde: A pungent volatile organic compound (VOC) used in building product adhesives. Ureaformaldehyde off-gases (releases) at room temperature and can cause health concerns like fatigue, headaches and asthma attacks.

Hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs): These chemicals contain only hydrogen, fluorine, and carbon atoms. HCFCs are emitted as by-products of manufacturing and industrial processes.

Insulated concrete form (ICF): (Includes brands such as Advanced ICF Structures, Arxx, Durisol, FasWall, Eco-block, Performwall and Rastra). These rigid-foam products replace wood framing and can shorten the wall construction process drastically, even in adverse weather conditions. They remain in place with concrete poured in their cells, have superior sound-proofing and provide great insulation. Materials can include expanded polystyrene (EPS), recycled-EPS, wood chips and plastic. Use of ICFs removes the need for concrete wall forms, and saves those resources.

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): A detailed report on a building product’s materials, testing, environmental safety and any known hazards to humans. By law, every building material has an MSDS and they are available online at the manufacturer’s site or direct from the supplier/retailer.

Mineral wool (see Rock Wool): This includes fibers from natural or synthetic minerals or metal oxides. Mineral wool refers more commonly to synthetic materials including fiberglass and ceramic fibers. Contains recycled-content.

Natural/agricultural fibers: (all rapidly renewable resources) include:

• Cellulose: The substance making up the cell walls of plants; wood fiber used in paper and manufacturing. Cellulose insulation is made from recycled wood fiber, mostly newsprint, and can contain up to 85 percent recycled content.

• Cotton batts: (Includes brands such as Ultra Touch). Manufactured from post-industrial (preconsumer) denim and cotton fibers. The product is available in differing width unfaced batts. It is borate-treated for pest, moisture and fire resistance. It is denim blue in color.

• Flax batts: (Includes brands such as Flax 100). Coarse fibers from the stem of the flax plant (whose seeds also produce linseed oil) are compressed into pre-cut batts. It is pale brown in color.

• Hemp batts: (Includes brands such as Thermo Hemp and Hempflax). Not commonly used as insulation in the US (common in Europe and New Zealand). It is pale brown in color.

• Wool batts: (Includes brands such as Latitude and Black Mountain). It is borate-treated to resist moths, termites and other pests, and to provide fire and mold resistance. Ability to hold large quantities of water can be an advantage in walls that can dry out between cycles of water loading, although repeated wetting and drying can leach out the borates. Wool insulation contains the oil lanolin which contributes to its fire retardant properties. It is gray-brown in color.

R-value: This measures a materials tested resistance to heat flow. Higher insulation R-value means greater resistance, and better insulation. R-values are quoted per inch, thus five one-inch layers of R-5 material yield a total insulation value of R-25.

Rigid foam board: Also known as slab, board, or foam board insulation and is made to be used in confined spaces like basements, foundation slabs, crawl spaces or exterior walls. It has a high insulating value for its thickness and includes the following:

• Expanded polystyrene (EPS): (Includes brands such as Styrofoam.) Comes in board or block form (as in ICFs), and is made by heating pentane-saturated polystyrene pellets. Frequently has a high recycled content, and is recyclable. It is not moisture resistant. It typically has no indoor air quality effects. It is usually white in color.

• Extruded polystyrene (XPS): A closed-cell form of polystyrene, it is more moisture-resistant. Contains CFCs or HCFCs. It is recyclable and can be used below-grade. Typically boards are pink or blue.

• Polyisocyanurate (ISO): Closed-cell foam. Contains CFCs or HCFCs that can slowly release over time. The gas between the open cells results in a high R-value.

• Polyurethane: Closed-cell foam, similar to ISO. Contains CFCs or HCFCs.

Radiant barrier: A material that reflects radiant heat, typically a foil-faced or foil-like material. A common installation is to install in an attic to reduce solar heat gain. It requires an air space to work effectively.

Rock wool: More commonly used in homes outside the US, this includes fiberglass, rock wool (made from molten basalt, a volcanic rock, and limestone) and slag wool (made from blast-furnace slag, a vitreous mass left as a residue by the smelting of metallic ore from steel mills). It is the only insulation that will stop fire and is less likely to become airborne than fiberglass. It is brown or gray in color.

Spray foam: Includes multiple types, ensure protection from direct sunlight. These include the following:

• Closed-cell: (includes brands such as Versi-Foam and Heatlok). High-density spray foam that is structural. Polyurethane foam made from petroleum products. Can contain CFCs or HCFCs and off-gases as it is applied. It air seals simultaneously as it insulates. Acts as a vapor barrier reducing water vapor transport.

• Open-cell: (includes brands such as Sealection 500 and Icynene). Low-density spray foam. Polyurethane foam made from petroleum products. Can contain CFCs or HCFCs and off-gases as it is applied. It air seals simultaneously as it insulates. Usually vapor permeable.

• Soy-based spray foam: (includes brands such as BioBased Foam, Demilec) A spray polyurethane spray foam that is water-blown and made by adding natural, renewable ingredients that replace a portion of the petroleum materials. It air seals simultaneously as it insulates Structural Insulated Panel System (SIPs): A load-bearing composite building material (for wall, roof or floor) consisting of a sandwich of two layers of structural board with an insulating core layer of foam in between. The board can be sheet metal or oriented strand board (OSB) and the foam either expanded polystyrene foam (EPS), extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) or polyurethane foam.

Thermal Break: A non-conducting material positioned between metal components of windows to reduce thermal conduction. In building assemblies, a thermal break reduces conductive heat transfer through materials like wood or metal framing studs.

Volatile Organic Compound (VOC): A class of chemical compounds that can cause nausea, tremors, headaches, and some doctors believe, longer-lasting health effects. VOCs can be emitted by adhesives, sealants and other products on/in construction materials. Insulation is an important installation that should be done correctly if you have hope of reducing your energy costs. You can see in the diagram below where the major loss areas are in the home. Whether you choose to use fiberglass, cellulose, or foam insulation, the areas of concern remain the same. The following checkpoints outline the specific areas that need to be addressed when insulating your home. Comparisons of different types of insulation are in Chapter 3.

WALL AREAS

Cavity Fill: The insulation should fill all standard and narrow cavities completely—no gaps top or bottom.

Electrical Wiring: Insulation should be split or cut to fit around wiring. Icynene foam insulation will automatically do this.

Electrical Boxes: Batts should be cut to fit around electrical boxes, with a piece placed behind each box. Icynene foam insulation will automatically do this.

Plumbing: Insulation should be placed between the outside wall and the pipes. If kraft facing is used, it should be in substantial contact with the gypsum board. Icynene foam insulation will automatically do this.

R-value: The R-value should be in compliance with the contractual specifications and meet or exceed the minimum code requirements.

Fitting: Batts should have a friction fit in the cavity. Faced batts can be inset or face-stapled as needed. If inset stapled, batts should not be overly compressed. Icynene foam insulation will automatically do this.

Bay Window: The outside wall, extended floor, and ceiling should be insulated.

Window and Door Areas: Spaces around windows and doors should be filled with insulation or caulked. Do not overstuff.

These two photos show covering water heater, plumbing manifold, and door unit prior to installing Icynene insulation.

Figure 397-Photo of covering water heater-Chamber’s residence

Figure 398-Photo of covering door unit-Chamber’s residence

CEILINGS AND FLOORS

Cantilevered Floors: These should be insulated at the floor R-value requirements.

Attic Openings: The attic opening should be insulated with an insulated cover or a piece of batt insulation that is the same R-value as the attic requirements and secured in place. This is not an issue with Icynene foam.

Attic Rulers: When blown insulation is used, it is a good practice to install an attic ruler. Install one for every 300 square feet of attic area. The installed thickness of blown insulation should not be less than the minimum settled thickness on the attic card. This is not an issue with Icynene foam insulation.

Eave Baffles: Air baffles should be installed on eaves with vents. This does not apply to Icynene foam insulation.

Knee Walls: Knee walls should be insulated at wall R-value requirements. Insulation should be supported with an appropriately fire-rated backing on the exterior side. This is not an issue with Icynene foam insulation.

GENERAL

Air Infiltration: All insulation requires proper air-sealing or the installation of a rated air barrier. All air paths should be sealed using caulk, tape, air barriers, or other air-sealing measures. This is not an issue with Icynene foam insulation.

Blown-in wet cellulose insulation: Any insulation installed with water should be thoroughly dried before covering with gypsum board. Humid climates may require longer drying times. Generally, the drying time is two to three days.

Combustible Sources: Keep all insulation at least three inches away from combustible sources, such as chimneys, non-IC fixtures, and heated fluepipes.

Unheated Rooms: The walls, ceilings, and floors between living spaces and unheated areas should be insulated.

Shower/Tub Enclosures: Insulation should be installed between the tub enclosures and outside walls.

Wet Insulation: Incidental wetting during installation is not usually a problem. Fiberglass batt insulation wetted with clean water can usually be dried and reused. All saturated loose-fill insulation should be replaced. This is not an issue with Icynene foam insulation.

Figure 399-Illustration of normal areas of energy loss

SOUND WALLS AND CEILINGS

Many times, it is desirable to deaden the sound between rooms or between the first and second floor. If you want to do this, you have to deal with sound waves on two fronts. First, are the sound waves being transmitted in between the wall studs or ceiling joists. These can be minimized by installing 3 1/2 inches of insulation such as fiberglass batts or Icynene. Second, are the sound waves being transmitted through the stud or joist itself. These can be minimized by installing 1/2 inch soundboard on the side of the wall in the room that needs to be quiet. In the case of the second floor over the first floor, you install soundboard on the ceiling/s of the first floor. The next step would be to install the drywall over the soundboard. You will need to use longer drywall screws. The following photos illustrate the technique.

Figure 400- Installing sound deadening insulation between ceiling joists-Chamber’ residence

Figure 401-Installing soundboard over ceiling joists-Chamber’s residence

Scheduling-Depending upon the type of insulation, it will take 2 to 3 days to install

Supervision checklist for insulation installation:

*Has the home been thoroughly cleaned out prior to installing insulation?

*Has the issue of sound walls and/or floors for selected locations been discussed?

*Have all of the baffles been installed? It is the author’s opinion that baffles should be install in every rafter cavity.

*Have you made sure that the insulation has not closed off air flow through the ventilation areas? This is a common problem and results in failure to properly ventilate attics.

*Is the insulation being installed in compliance with the installation list above?

Figure 402-Creating sound wall between Master bedroom and family room-Chamber’s residence

*Did you receive the correct thickness and R value insulation as was contracted for?

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the contractor receives payment for the work.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule finish trim carpentry. He should be scheduled to start as soon as the drywall work is complete.

*ORDERING ALERT*

Do an interior door take-off and order the units. They should be delivered as soon as the sheetrock is complete. The units could take 1 to 2 weeks to be made up and delivered.

Order any finish stairway material if applicable. 1 to 2 days

Order all lineal mouldings and finish trim material. 1 to days The finish carpenter or the finish trim suppliers field rep can help you with all three of the finish trim orders. (Ref pages 108-111 item #53 and subcategories)

Order all appliances. They should be scheduled to be delivered just before the plumber and electrician return to do the finish installations. These could take 2 to 3 weeks to get

Order advance cut-out dimensions for any applicable appliances and have them ready to give them to the finish carpenter or the cabinet maker (whichever is applicable) (Ref page 138 “appliances”)

43-DRYWALL (SHEETROCK/GYPSUM WALLBOARD)

This is the first activity on the inside of the home that constitutes finish work. From now on, all the work inside the home is going to be seen. It will be of the utmost importance to have good craftsmen on the job now. The picture below shows a completed drywall installation.

Hanging and finishing drywall is often thought of as an inconsequential but necessary activity of building a home. I can assure you that notion is far from the truth. Drywall is a highly skilled trade that requires a lot of attention to detail, finesse, and a keen eye for the art. Drywall sets the stage for all the finishing techniques and applications. A great drywall job precedes a great painting or faux painting job.

As with all the other activities, take time to review the glossary of drywall terms. I think you will have a greater appreciation for this trade after you see a good crew in action.

GLOSSARY OF DRYWALL TERMS

All-purpose compound: This is used for setting tape and covering joints and fasteners, it is a combination of drywall joint and a topping compound. Premixed or packaged as a dry powder to be mixed with water, it has many of the smooth-spreading qualities of topping compound but has greater adhesion.

Backing board: Gypsum wallboard is designed to be the first layer in a multilayer wall system.

Base coat: This is the first coat of compound when multiple coats are applied.

Beveled edge: This is the tapered factory edge of wallboard panel.

Blister: This portion of the facing paper or joint tape comes unbonded from the surface of the panel.

Butt joint: This is the joint formed when two pieces of wallboard are butted together end to end. This is the most difficult of the joints to finish.

Control joints: These are used to relieve stresses induced by expansion and contraction in large ceiling and wall expanses in drywall and veneer plaster systems.

Corner bead: This is a strip of formed sheet metal placed on outside comers of drywall before applying drywall “mud.”

Deadwood: The framing carpenter nails these blocks of wood in strategic places. The deadwood makes it possible to fasten the sheetrock in areas where there is normally no framing member installed.

Dimple: This is a depression left by a nail being set by hammer in the surface of sheetrock.

Drywall primer: This is a paint material specifically formulated to fill the pores and equalize the suction difference between gypsum board surface paper and the compound used on finished joints, angles, fastener heads, and accessories.

Drywall: This is a paper-covered panel of compressed gypsum used as the primary wall covering in almost all homes (also known as “wallboard,” “sheetrock,” or “gypsum board”).

Drywall screws: These are screws especially designed for drywall. The screws have coarse threads and a bugle-shaped head that enable the screw to embed into the drywall. Drywall is normally installed with screw and nails.

Feathering: This is a technique of extending the width of the joint compound over a larger area in order to help obscure the joint. This is a favorable technique when troweling butt joints. These are the most difficult joints to hide.

Field: This is the surface area of a gypsum wallboard panel.

Fire-taping: This is taping the joints in gypsum wallboard to eliminate a path where fire might travel. This tape is used without a finish coat of joint compound.

Firewall: A firewall is a nonflammable wall that prevents fires from spreading throughout a building. Homes, for example, may have a firewall between the garage and the rest of the house to prevent garage fires from threatening other rooms.

Greenboard: Greenboard is water-resistant drywall. It is suitable for humid areas, but not areas that actually get wet. Concrete backer board should be used where actual moisture is expected. Concrete backer board is typically used as the underlayment for ceramic tile.

Gypsum: This is a soft mineral used to make walls—sheetrock.

Mud: This is a term for joint compound.

Multilayer: This is a term for two or more layers.

Nail-pop: This is when nail heads “pop” through the surface of the wallboard.

Ring-shank nails: Nails with rings around the shanks. This increases the gripping power of the nails.

Score: This is to scribe a line along a surface using a knife.

Seam: This is a taped wallboard joint.

Skim coat: This is a thin coat of joint compound.

Skip-trowel: This is a hand application texturing technique adding sand to the mud. This is spread over the entire surface to fill imperfections in the sheetrock.

Spotting: This is a term for covering a fastener.

Texture: This is a decorative treatment of gypsum board surfaces.

Topping joint compound: This topping is a smooth sanding material for second and third coats over allpurpose compound. It produces a very smooth finish.

Figure 403-Drywall that was just hung-Chamber’s residence

Figure 404-Starting to tape the drywall-Chamber’s residence

Figure 405-Sanding the drywall-Chamber’s residence

Figure 406-Completed drywall operation-Chamber’s residence

Supervision checklist for drywall:

*Did the contractor inspect the ceiling and wall framing first to make sure the drywall would lie as flat as possible? There’s always going to be minor errors in the framing lumber that will keep the drywall from being perfectly flat. The contractor can check for unusually bowed joists or studs and report it to the supervisor so they can be changed. Knowingly applying drywall over bad framing is the sign of a sloppy contractor.

*Is the drywall being hung cleanly around outlets, switches, light boxes, and recessed canister lights? The cutting should be tight around the obstacles. Later, the outlet plates, switch plates, and lighting trim need to cover any gaps at these areas.

*Is the drywall being hung free of defects? These could include tears or blisters in the drywall face.

*Is the proper combination of fasteners being used for the installation? For better hanging, drywall nails will be used at the edges of the board, while drywall screws will be used in the field area of the board.

*Is the drywall tape fully embedded in the compound? If air gets trapped under the tape, bubbles will form, creating an unacceptable condition.

*Are the joints troweled so you cannot see them? This is especially critical at butt joints (where two sheets meet end to end). These types of joints will need to be feathered out more than factory-edge joints.

*Are all the recesses (dimples) created by the nail heads and screw heads filled in with compound? These dimples should be completely filled in after the second coat of compound. If they are not, have the contractor fill them in again until they are flush.

*Has all the compound work been sanded properly? Run your hand across the joints to see if they are smooth. You should not see any lap marks where the trowel was struck through the compound. Is there a texture? If so, then the texture should be uniform throughout the ceiling and/or walls.

*Has the contractor discussed different types of texture with you? It is a good idea to meet with the contractor concerning texturing. He can talk about stomp and drag, crow’s foot, splatter spray, hand chiseled textures, and others. You may decide that you do not want any texture. You should discuss this option before the contractor begins the finishing process. It requires a much finer troweled finish then would normally be required if there were going to be texture.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule interior painting. Coordinate this schedule with the painting contractor. 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 weeks (Ref pages 113-115 item #54)

44-CAST-STONE INSTALLATION

The onsite personnel should be familiar with the application sections of the Cast-Stone Institute Specifications and the Project Specification pertaining to delivery, storage, setting, patching, cleaning, pointing, caulking, and sealing. In case of a conflict between the two specifications, the Project Specification may not include a particular issue; the industry standards should be followed. The following checklist has been developed for cast-stone installations:

     •  Prior to delivery, there should be a set of the approved shop drawings and the approved color and texture sample on file.

     •  All test reports specified should be submitted as required.

     •  Upon delivery, all cast-stone should be checked for chips, cracks, stains, or broken pieces. Any damage should be noted on the delivery slips and communicated to the manufacturer or the sales representative.

     •  Color and texture should be inspected in accordance to approved color sample or mock-up panel set up at the job site. In general, the color and texture of the cast-stone delivered to the job site should be approximately equal to the approved sample when viewed in good typical daylight conditions at a 10-foot distance.

     •  Storage of cast-stone should be aboveground on non-staining planks or pallets.
The storage site should be away from heavy construction traffic. Cast-stone stored for an extended period of time should be kept on pallets or non-staining planking and covered with non-staining tarpaulins. Allow for air circulation.

     •  Prior to setting, ensure climatic conditions are within thermal limitations of mortar.
Mortar retarders and accelerators should be used according to the manufacturer’s directions, but not with patching material. Set stone in full mortar joints and fill all dowel holes and anchor slots completely with mortar. Ensure uniform joint widths within the specifications’ tolerances.

     •  Ensure that all specified flashing and damp-proofing is installed.
Flashing pierced by stone anchors must be sealed by metal thimble, grommet, or approved sealant.

     •  Concrete should never be poured against unprotected cast-stone.
Separate areas where poured-in-place concrete is placed against cast-stone sills with a bond breaker prior to pouring concrete.

     •  Stone anchors must meet specified standards and be noncorrosive.
Stone slots to receive anchors should be completely filled with mortar.

     •  Prior to setting, ensure that the surfaces set in mortar are drenched with water. This will secure a good bond and help to prevent mortar shrinkage.

     •  Weep holes must be installed over windows, at relieving angles and at the bottom of walls.
No mortar drippings shall be allowed in the wythe between the back of the stone and the face of the backup structure.

     •  All head joints at coping and joints at column covers, soffits, and in general, all stone sections with projecting profiles, exposed top joints, or rigid suspension connections to the supporting structure should be sealant joints. After setting, prime the ends of the stones, insert properly sized backup rod, and gun in sealant.

     •  All trim items, except parapet coping, must align with control joints.
Do no bridge coping over expansion joints.

     •  Cast-stone should be handled to minimize chipping. Care must be taken not to bump the stone into anything. Handle stones with the wide portion of the cross-section in the vertical position to minimize breakage.

     •  After setting, columns, pilasters, entry jambs, windowsills, and all stone with projecting profiles should be protected during the remaining construction.

     •  During construction, cover open walls when rain is anticipated.

     •  Chipped cast-stone must be patched by skilled mechanics.
A trial patch must be approved before general patching is to commence. (See patching.)

     •  Planter coping, fountain coping, swimming pools, treads, risers, stone pieces at grade, and pavers should be treated with silane or silixane water repellant after setting.
This will minimize the likelihood of dirt and ground water entering the surface of the stone—a frequent cause of staining, efflorescence, and enhancement of crazing. Check that the water repellent does not affect color or texture when dry.

     •  Load-bearing units should be reinforced as necessary.

     •  They may not be designed to be handled in a different orientation than they will be installed in the structure. Lintels and large panels must be kept vertical.

     •  When cast-stone bands are detailed with brick, it should be detailed so that movement between the two materials is not restricted.
This can be achieved by placing a non-staining bond break material (flashing, building felt, polyethylene, etc.) into the bed joints above and below the band, as well as the band itself, and be adequately anchored to the backup wythe. Ties should be spaced no more than 18 inches OC vertically—16 inches when joint reinforcement is specified. Bed joints above and below the accent band may be raked back 3/8 to 1/2 inch and filled with backer rod or breaker tape and sealant.

Inspection and Acceptance of Cast Stone

On-site inspection and acceptance of cast-stone should be performed at time of delivery and again after all material has been installed, pointed, and cleaned. Final Inspection should be done prior to application of water repellents. The on-site inspector should be familiar with the Project Specification as well as the applicable reference standards. Test reports of compressive strength, absorption, and other physical properties should be on file as well as the approved sample.

Before installation, check the color and texture of the approved sample against the delivered product. Cast-stone should approximate the color and texture of the approved sample when viewed under good typical lighting conditions at a 10-foot distance and should show no obvious imperfections other than minimal color and texture. The inspector (and stone setter) must be familiar with the dimensional requirements of the installation as they pertain to joint sizes and interfaces with other materials.

Stones should be appraised for color when dry, as dampness will darken the surface color and make it appear blotchy. Curing time differentials may affect color since moisture will be retained within units for six months, even in dry weather. Samples that have been stored indoors for long periods of time may look considerably different than a product that was manufactured only a short time before delivery. Always compare color between units of comparable age and subjected to similar weathering conditions.

Texture of cast-stone should be approximately equal to the approved sample when viewed from a 10-foot distance in good typical lighting. Do not appraise texture under a sun wash when sunlight is skimming across the surface parallel to the plan of the stone face, as this will unfairly accentuate minor irregularities.

Minor Color Variations

Minor variations in color and texture from stone to stone should be accepted within the limits of the accepted range, either established by several samples or mock-ups or by deviations from instrumentally measured color variation to be approximately equal to a good natural-cut limestone project. More color variation should be expected than from building materials with painted or applied finishes.

Some projects will show more color variation than others. Units containing gray cement will show more light-dark variations than those containing white cement. Colors that require high amounts of integral pigments, such as reds and browns, will vary more than moderately neutral shades, such as buff. Special mixes containing contrasting and multicolored aggregates may be subject to extreme color deviations when compared to homogeneous facing mixes.

Variations in color within the same stone may be caused by efflorescence or free lime migrating to the outer surface. This can usually be remedied by a proper wash down. Staining, mortar smears, or uneven washing can also cause color variations within stones and the manufacturer should be consulted for recommended treatment of these problems.

Patching is perhaps the greatest source for dissatisfaction with finished installations. When months have elapsed between the date of manufacture and the date of repairs, significant differences in color may exist between properly repaired areas and the remainder of the stone. These areas should be left alone and will blend in over time through curing, natural weathering, and ultraviolet light. It is a mistake to require an instant color match at time of repair since this will usually cause dark patches later.

Unacceptable Deficiencies

Common deficiencies that are not normally acceptable in high-quality cast-stone installations include:

Bug holes or air voids on the finished surfaces

Ragged or chipped edges on formed edges

Stains on exposed faces from foreign substances

Twisted, warped, out-of-square, or bowed areas exceeding tolerances

Out-of-plane or pie-shaped joints, or large or small joints out of tolerance

Areas of rough texture of smoothness not matching sample

Backup concrete bleeding through exposed faces

Visible cracks exceeding 0.005 inches (not acceptable from any distance)

Reinforcing shadows or exposure on face

Rust on surface caused by staining, reinforcement, or iron pyrites

Installations not matching joint layout on approved shop drawings

Form marks or local depressions in excess of 0.030 inches

Supervision checklist for cast-stone installation:

*Did you read and follow the guidelines set forth in item numbers 1–20? You should review this list with the installer prior to him beginning the job. This lets him know what you expect the final outcome to look like.

*Did you read and understand the unacceptable deficiencies item numbers 1–12? If you did, then be watching for any of these deficiencies to show up in his work. Say something to him quickly about it so it can be remedied as soon as possible.

*Does the contractor appear to be following the installation guidelines? You are going to be able to tell a lot about the contractor by his work ethic. Is he methodical in his approach to the installation, or is he unorganized?

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

45-BRICK INSTALLATION

Brick masonry is construction in which uniform units (bricks), small enough to be placed with one hand, are laid in courses with mortar joints to form walls. Bricks are kiln-baked from various clay and shale mixtures. The chemical and physical characteristics of the ingredients vary considerably. These characteristics and the kiln temperatures combine to produce brick in a variety of colors and harnesses. In some regions, individual pits yield clay or shale that, when ground and moistened, can be formed and baked into durable brick. In other regions, clay or shale from several pits must be mixed.

GLOSSARY OF BRICK TERMS

Bat: a segment of a cut brick

Bed: the face of the brick that will be set on the mortar

Bed joint: the layer of mortar on which a brick is set

Bond: the interlacing of bricks for strength and decoration

Brick ledge: the lowered area around the perimeter of the foundation to support brick walls

Bull header: a rowlock brick laid with its bed perpendicular to the face of the wall

Bull stretcher: a rowlock brick laid with its bed parallel to the face of the wall

Cement: the binding ingredient in mortar, grout, and concrete

Closure brick: the last brick in a course

Concrete: a mixture of Portland cement, water, sand, and gravel

Course: a row of bricks in a wall

Frog: an indention in a brick that traps mortar to make a secure bond

Head joint: the mortar between the ends of two bricks laid next to each other

Header: a masonry unit laid flat on its bed across the width of a wall with its face perpendicular to the face of the wall (generally used to bond two wythes)

Header course: a row of bricks with headers exposed

Joint: a horizontal layer of mortar between bricks

Leads: the first course at the ends of brick walls, which defines length and alignment

Mortar: a cement-based material, usually mixed with sand and water, that is the bonding agent between bricks

Pier: bonding brick in support of a beam or strengthening for a wall

Quoin: a term for a corner

Rowlock: a brick laid on its long, narrow edge with the end of the brick facing out

Rowlock stretcher: a brick placed in the wall with the broad surface facing out

Sailor: a brick standing upright with the wide side facing out

Soldier: a brick laid on its end with its face perpendicular to the face of the wall

Stretcher: the brick laid flat with the long, narrow side facing out

Stopped end: the terminal point of a wall where the courses end flush

Toothing: a term for projecting alternate bricks left for bonding where bricklaying is to be continued

Wall ties: corrugated metal straps that bond the brick to the framed wall

Weep holes: the open slots on the first course at the butt joint (permit water to be able to escape from behind the brick wall)

Wythe: a term for each continuous, vertical section of a wall, one masonry unit thick (sometimes referred to as a tier)

BRICK INFORMATION-subcategory of brick installation

The better bricks are always going to be fabricated from hard kiln-fired clay. I mention this because there are bricks that are manufactured from concrete. Sometimes they are known as split-rock or split-face brick. I do not advocate the use of concrete brick by whatever name you call it for the following reasons. Concrete brick retains moisture longer than clay brick, and it has a higher coefficient of expansion. If you are going to install concrete brick, then you have to make sure that there are sufficient expansion joints built into the walls. Brick will have various coverage factors based on one square foot of applied area. The larger the brick, the less amount it takes to cover that one square foot. Bricks are priced by the thousand. The selection of the mortar color will be important, as it takes up almost 20% of the walls and will make a noticeable difference in the finished look.

The amount of brick that you order depends on two things: the size of the brick and the size of the area to be covered. The following table will help make that determination.

Bricks are priced by the thousand but packaged by the cube. Each cube contains from 350–450 bricks, depending upon the size.

Size |  | Brick required for one square foot of surface-applied area
King Size |  | 4.80
Builders’ Special |  | 5.33
Modular |  | 6.85
Colonial |  | 4.90
Queen Size |  | 5.20

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BRICK PREPARATION-subcategory of brick installation

In preparation of installing brick the following checklist of activities must be considered first. All stub-outs that will penetrate the exterior sheathing from any involved contractor needed to have been installed. I’ve provided a checklist of the possible stub-outs by contractor:

HVAC

Ventilation intake - exhaust fan duct - dryer vent - range hood duct - Freon lines for AC units - secondary discharge lines for evaporator coil

PLUMBING

Hose bibs - Main gas service line - gas line for standby generator - gas lines for grill, fire pit etc. -discharge lines for water heater pans

ELECTRICAL

Home run wiring for service panel - wiring for AC disconnect boxes - exterior outlets - stub-outs for future installations - stub-out for standby generator

FIREPLACE INSERT

Flue pipe with hood

As the supervisor, you must make certain that all stub-outs are installed. If not, and the home is bricked, you could create a hell of a mess later trying to get those installations through the brick.

Brick veneer walls are not load bearing; they are just for looks. As a result, brick has to be secured to the framed wall with galvanized wall ties. These ties are corrugated and approximately one inch wide and six inches long. The ends of the ties are nailed to each stud 16 inches on center vertically with galvanized sixpenny nails. As the brick is being laid, the wall ties are folded over the top of the brick and then mortared in with the successive course. Weep holes are installed in the bottom course of brick every three to four bricks. The purpose of the weep holes is to let condensation and wind-driven rain that penetrated the brick and/or mortar to be able to escape. These weep holes have nothing to do with ventilation and should never be closed up with caulking. If you are interested in venting the brick, this is accomplished by installing brick vents in the third course up from the bottom, horizontally, every few feet. This enables the air to be drawn in at the bottom and draft behind the brick and into the attic, where it can be vented out the ridge vents.

Figure 407-Photo of sealed brick ledge at left-Chamber’s residence

In the photo at the left, the brick ledge was sealed with a product called Aquaguard. It is a 20-mil thick liquid rubber and is applied with a brush. In this application, the liquid rubber was applied to the sheathing first, and then the housewrap was installed on top of the sealant. The next step was to apply the rubber on the brick ledge and up the face of the housewrap. This ensures a watertight seal and unlike poly ledge wrap will not tear.

Figure 408- Photo of installed brick wall ties at right-Chamber’s residence

In the photo at the right, wall ties were fastened to the studs with 6-d galvanized nails. The ties were fastened 16 inches on center horizontally and vertically. The important part is that the ties were fastened through the sheathing into the studs. In this example, a wall tie inspection was conducted by the building inspection department.

BRICK SUPPLIES-subcategory of brick installation

In addition to the brick, you are going to need a list of brick supplies.

You are going to need clean white mason sand. You will be ordering approximately one cubic yard of mason sand for each 1,000 bricks laid. When the sand is delivered, have them dump it on top of some sixmil polyethylene ground cover. This prevents the sand from getting contaminated from underneath. Cover the pile of sand with additional plastic or tarps to prevent it from getting contaminated from above with falling leaves, pine needles, and other construction debris.

You are going to need between 7 and 10 bags of Portland cement per cubic yard of mason sand depending upon the required ratio mix. Let’s discuss the “Rule 38” method for calculating the amounts of the materials mixed together in order to produce one cubic yard of mortar. The very first thing to do is to establish the recommended specification ratio on the bags of mortar mix. If it calls for a one-to-three ratio (one bag cement to three bags of sand), add the two numbers together and divide into 38 to determine how many bags of cement—38 divided by 4 equals 9.5. That is 9.5 bags or cubic feet of cement.

Calculate the amount of sand needed by multiplying the number of bags of cement by the second number in the ratio, which in this case is 3. For example, 9.5 multiplied by 3 equals 28.5 cubic feet of sand. Check your numbers by adding together the number for the bags of cement and the number for the cubic feet of sand. The number should always equal 38.

You will need wall ties, as we mentioned earlier. You will need steel angles (lintels) that span across window and door openings. The bricks are laid on the lintels and make it possible to complete the walls.

In the photo at the left, you see that 6-mil poly was laid on the ground in anticipation of the delivery of mason sand. You want to keep the sand clean and uncontaminated. The sand will not be able to make contact with the ground.

Figure 409-Laying protective barrier on the ground-Chamber’s residence

In the photo at the right, you see the mason sand was delivered and then covered with an additional piece of poly. This keeps tree leaves and trash from contaminating the sand. You always want to keep the sand protected in order to achieve the best results.

Figure 410-Photo of protected mason sand-Chamber’s residence

In the photo at the left, is a photo of a brick vent. These are a unique, in the fact that they can ventilate the backside of the brick. You can take advantage of the dead space that is always behind brick veneer. The introduction of ventilation allows the brick to dry from condensation or rain. This virtually eliminates mold and mildew growth on the bottom courses of brick. If you are going to use brick vents, then the air behind the brick must be able to move vertically into the attic space and exhaust out the ridge vents. This means that the framing carpenter will have to leave an open channel in the soffit behind the brick frieze.

Figure 411-Photo of a brick vent

It also means that the insulation contractor cannot seal off the soffit chamber where it enters the attic with insulation. I have used these vents on many homes with positive results. They greatly reduce the radiant heat gain from the sun heating up the brick. In the late afternoon, the heat gain on the back side of the brick would normally penetrate the sheathing and insulation barrier. You can actually feel the heat inside the home on those walls. I recommend that brick vents be installed in the third course of brick up from the brick ledge. The reason for this is to keep mortar that falls off on the backside of the brick from clogging up the vent. The mortar can fall below the vent. As to the spacing, the brick vents should be installed every third brick on the walls where there is prolonged sun exposure, and every six feet or so on the walls that do not get the sun exposure. The vents are screened on the inside to prevent insects, etc from entering. The brick vent does not negate the importance of installing weep holes every three brick on the bottom course. The weep vent allows moisture to escape, and the brick vent allows air to be inducted. You should make sure that the mason opens the weep slots when mortar falls down and blocks them.

In the photo at the right are an order of steel brick lintels for the job. The lintels will span across window, door, and garage overhead door openings. The lintels will be measured so that they are approximately six to eight inches longer than the opening they are spanning.

Figure 412-Photo of steel primed brick lintels-Chamber’s residence

Supervision check list for brick supplies:

*Have you allowed enough lead time for ordering the brick? Some brick, may take weeks or months to get delivered. My advice is when you make your brick selection, ask if this brick is kept in stock or will it have to be ordered? If it does have to be ordered, how long will it take? You may have to make an alternate selection.

*Have the correct number of brick been ordered? On a standard brick job, you will need to order an additional 10% for cut and waste factors. If the brickwork is intricate and involves a lot of custom cutting, then an additional 20% may have to be added on.

*Has the mason sand been ordered? You will need approximately one cubic yard of sand for each 1000 brick ordered.

*Did you protect the mason sand upon delivery as outlined on the previous page?

*Have you ordered the proper quantity of Portland cement? You will need between seven and nine bags per each 1000 brick depending upon the strength of the mortar mix required.

*Did you protect the Portland cement upon delivery? It needs to be protected by covering it with plastic tarps and at the end of each workday.

*Have all of the steel lintels been ordered? The lintels should ordered with a steel primer applied. Later, the painter will paint the lintels a finish color of choice.

*Have the wall ties been ordered?

*Have the brick vents been ordered if they are going to be installed?

*Has the brick ledge flashing material been ordered?

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BRICK LABOR-subcategory of brick installation

If the brick mason is careful and brushes the brick as they are laid, it may not be necessary to use any additional brick cleaner when the job is complete. I have seen excellent, clean brickwork, and I have seen work where the mason smeared mortar over the face of the brick. Which mason do you think was generally cheaper? I think you already know the answer.

After the brickwork is complete, should it be necessary to use any brick cleaner, it should be cleaned with the appropriate cleaner. Most brick masons use either a mild solution of muratic acid (not for red or reddish-hue brick) or a lime solvent solution. Too strong of a solution can burn the brick. This cleaner is brushed on, allowed to penetrate, and then rinsed off thoroughly with water. Always check with the brick supplier first to get their recommendation for the appropriate cleaner.

Figure 413-Mixing brick mortar-Chamber’s residence

Figure 414- Laying king size brick-Chamber’s residence

Figure 415-Photo of weep hole in bottom course of brick Chamber’s residence

Figure 416-Photo of completed brick work Chambers residence

Supervision checklist for brick labor:

*Has the brick mason installed flashing on the brick ledge? The flashing is supposed to prevent water from getting into the home. Most of the flashing techniques I have seen done are pretty pathetic. Here is something that I ran across that works excellently. The product is called Aquaguard and is sold by a company called Rubberize It. Aquaguard is a liquid rubber that is brushed on the brick ledge and up the face of the sheathing. Aquaguard contains no VOCs (volatile organic compounds), is nontoxic, and is environmentally friendly. The housewrap overlaps over the wet rubber, making a watertight application.

*Has the brick mason installed the wall ties? Wall ties are essential in bonding the brick veneer to the wall framing. In a number of areas, they will require a wall tie inspection before the bricks can be laid. The ties are fastened to each stud in a straight horizontal pattern. The ties are fastened 16 inches OC vertically on each stud. Snap chalk lines in order to keep the rows of brick ties straight.

*Has the mason taken precautions to protect the roof from mortar or damage?

*Has the mason covered the windows and doors in the areas where brick is installed?

*Have any required wall tie inspections been performed and approved? Do not even think about laying brick if this inspection has not been performed. The inspector may make you tear the brick back off so he can see the ties.

*If brick vents are being installed, did he install them as per the suggested spacing and at the correct height from the brick ledge? Read the information supplied about brick vents.

*Has the mason formed the weep holes every 24 inches OC? The weep holes have an important role to play. Wind-driven rain penetration and condensation on the back side of the brick has to have an exit point. The weep holes provide that exit. They should be placed every 24 inches. The mason has to make sure that the weep holes do not get blocked up with mortar falling down the behind the brick.

*Are the mortar joints a consistent thickness? Irregular shaped brick will have an inconsistent thickness.

*Has the mason installed weep holes over window and door lintels? Those areas need to provide for water escape as well.

*Is the mason installing expansion joints in the wall at stress points? This is especially critical when you are dealing with expansive soils.

*Is the mason keeping the brick clean with a brush as he lays up? The really good masons will not smear a lot of mortar on the face of the brick. A lot of them keep a dry brush in their pocket and brush off the mortar off the brick as they go.

*Is the mason wasting too many bricks? Brick masons get paid primarily by how many bricks they lay. One of their tricks is to cut the bands off the bundles of brick and scatter them around. They then may throw a lot of the good brick away, saying they got a little mortar on them. The Mason will be able to use a lot of brick bat for rowlock courses, etc. It is kind of like the story with the framing carpenter. The mason does not have to buy the brick, so why should he be concerned?

*Is the mason keeping the unopened cubes of brick covered up to keep from getting wet? The moisture in the mortar does not get absorbed into the brick when the brick is already wet. The mason should always cover the brick when rain is in the forecast.

*Are the courses of brick straight with consistent joints? A good brick mason will focus a lot of attention in keeping the joints true and consistent.

*After completing the brickwork, did the mason clean the brick with the proper solution? There are different kinds of solvents to clean mortar off the brick. Sometimes the mason can use muratic acid. Other times they may need to use another product called lime solvent. A lot of it has to do with the color of the brick.

*Did the brick mason clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

1. Schedule the electrician to return and make-up the service panel. If the service panel is on the outside of the home, the veneer for that area must be installed first. The electrician will install any underground lines. This part of the schedule will take 2 to 3 days.

The electrician will install a few circuit breakers for inside building power. At that point the power company can be notified to disconnect temporary power and energize permanent power. You must coordinate this action with the electrician. Additional time has to be factored for any required inspections of the panel box/s and underground conduit. Upon inspection approval the power company will pull the temporary meter from the T-pole and install a meter at the house.

2. Schedule flatwork contractor for driveway, sidewalks, etc. This should begin after all exterior veneers are installed. Coordinate schedule with contractor. This is a 2 to 5 day operation.

3. Schedule special concrete finishes if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor.

4. Schedule counter-flashing if applicable. This should be installed after all veneers have been installed. Coordinate schedule with contractor. This is a 1 day operation.

5. Schedule special metal fabrication work if any. Coordinate schedule with contractor.

6. Schedule wrought iron installations if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor.

7. Schedule the gas company if applicable to install gas line to the house and install gas meter. They will not energize the gas meter until all gas appliances are connected to gas lines.

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order steel and supplies for flatwork. Coordinate delivery schedule with contractor. This material should take 2 to 3 days to get

Order concrete for flatwork. Coordinate delivery schedule with contractor. May take a week or more to get concrete depending upon how busy they are

46-NATURAL STONE INSTALLATION

Natural stone veneers can be applied to retaining walls, indoor or outdoor fireplaces, wall facades, and pillars. Thin stone veneers are made from real stone, so they resist warping, cracking, fading, and chipping. Additionally, if they do become chipped or cracked, nobody will notice since, unlike fabricated fake stone veneers, the color and texture of the stone goes all the way through the stone. Stone veneer is also faster and easier to apply since it is lighter and easier to handle.

Natural Stone Veneer Installation

Natural stone is installed just like tile, using thinset and cutting with a wet saw. It can be installed on exterior stucco surfaces, cement boards, and masonry block or interior surfaces like painted drywall. Please make sure the substrate is attached properly to the structure prior to installation and all instructions on using thinset have been read. It is also recommended that you check your local construction code for applicable installation information.

To achieve the best results, your installer should always examine the entire shipment that was purchased to obtain a comprehensive view of the full range of color variance. The installer will then be prepared to work to ensure an even mixture that can be enjoyed for a lifetime.

Natural stone veneer has been engineered to be installed on an existing foundation without major preparation to the structure. Therefore, it could be installed with thinset and you can go for higher elevations.

For ledge stone at 8 lbs/sq ft, you can go up to 40 feet high without mechanical attachment.

For 6” split face at 6 lbs/sq ft, you can go up to 50 feet high without mechanical attachment.

For 8” split face at 8 lbs/sq ft, you can go up to 40 feet high without mechanical attachment.

For 10” split face at 10 lbs/sq ft, you can go up to 32 feet high without mechanical attachment.

For 12” split face at 12 lbs/sq ft, you can go up to 26 feet high without mechanical attachment.

Again, it is best to check your local construction code for applicable installation information.

After cutting a split-face piece, an installer can chisel it to factory-edge thickness. Simply place the stone on a flat, clean surface. Using a pointy, flat chisel, chisel back in 1/8-inch increments to achieve a straight edge. You can also use a masonry hammer to break the face of the stone in 1/8-inch increments. This method will not give you a straight edge.

Grouting will depend on the customer’s style and the look you are trying to achieve. The product can be butt joined without a grout line. However, sometimes grouting is used in freezing climates to prevent the water from going behind the stone.

Sealing the stone is not necessary. However, it can be added as extra protection, especially for the grout lines or to prevent damage if exposed to water regularly. Two sealants can be used—deep sealer and surface sealer. The deep sealer will not change the natural look of the stone. The surface sealer will enhance the colors of the stone and can add either a glossy or matte finish. Wet a sample with water and this will illustrate the color after surface sealing.

All above figures can be changed depending on your jurisdictions and construction code enforcement. Check with your local structural engineer for all the specifics on your project

Natural thin-stone veneers come in a wide variety of styles and colors to choose from. They are quarried in Arizona, Lannon, Fond Du Lac, Chilton, and Michigan. A thin-stone veneer is the ideal stone application since it is superior in terms of being very durable and flexible in matching nearly every style, color, and design. Thin-stone veneers are thinner and lighter than manufactured stone veneers and fiberglass stones.

The Basics

Stone veneer installation on any surface needs the same basic methods of application. First, there needs to be a moisture barrier, a-frame, or structure for the mortar to grip, mortar, and then the stone of your choice. The moisture barrier and backbone frame are necessary components to ensure that your thin-stone veneer will last a lifetime.

When installing a stone veneer to plywood, paneling, wall sheeting, wallboard, or other non-stone surfaces:

Cover the wall with a moisture barrier that is weather resistant and protects the underlying wood and the back of the stone veneer from moisture damage.

Apply a metal lath, mesh, or sheeting with galvanized nails or staples, according to your local building code. This supplies rigid support for the mortar to stick to, which provides a firm backbone for your stones to grip.

Apply your mortar, and on top of that, apply your choice of stone veneer with mortar in between the joints.

After your mortar has hardened, simply use a stiff brush and some water to scrape away any mortar that has found its way onto the face of your stones.

Figure 417- Installing scratch coat of metal lath Chamber’s residence

Figure 418- Installing stone veneer over scratch coat Chamber’s residence

Figure 419-Grouting and brush cleaning stone veneer Chamber’s residence

Figure 420- Completed stone veneer job Chamber’s residence

Supervision checklist for natural stone installation:

*Has the proper substrate and waterproofing been installed on the sheathing?

*Has the mason protected the stone and elevated it off the ground?

*Has the mason covered the windows and doors with plastic sheathing in order to protect them?

*Is the mason being neat with the installation?

*Is the mason cleaning the stone as instructed?

*Has the mason cleaned up his debris?

46-MANUFACTURED STONE INSTALLATION

The process of installing manufactured stone is not too different from the way traditional cement stucco is applied to the sidewalls of a home. With traditional stucco, several layers of wet stucco are applied and troweled to the desired finish. The wet stucco is a mixture of sand, Portland cement, and sometimes other ingredients, such as lime or latex modifiers. Once dry, the stucco is as hard as rock. With manufactured stone, the hardening process happens at the factory instead of the job site. The mason simply uses a stucco mixture to glue the manufactured stones to the house.

Water-Resistive Barrier (WRB)

When installing a manufactured stone veneer in an exterior application requiring a WRB, two separate layers of WRB shall be used. Each layer of WRB should meet the requirements for Grade D, as defined by ICC Acceptance Criteria AC-38, or ASTM E 2556/E 2556M. Installation of the WRB should follow instructions provided by the specific manufacturer. When installing a manufactured stone veneer in an interior application, a single layer of WRB is recommended.

Apply two layers of drainage plane, such as a fiberboard and housewrap, to the exterior frame wall. This will help to create a vapor and moisture barrier, protecting the frame from water and wicking up through the stone.

Apply the metal lath by stapling it to the frame, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Apply a 1/2- to 3/4-inch-thick layer of mortar over the entire metal lath and wall.

Dampen the back of a stone and smear on a 1/2- to 3/4-inch layer of mortar, completely covering over the back of the stone.

Press the stone into place on the wall, keeping the mortar joint width to a minimum—around 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Repeat for each stone.

Once all the stones are in place, use the mortar to fill in between all the joints.

Let the mortar harden completely so the stones are cemented in place.

Water Table/Sill Installations

Water tables/sills provide a transition piece between a stone wainscoting and other exterior finishes and for water runoff. They can also be used as a windowsill. Install using galvanized metal support brackets (Simpson Strong TieA-21 or other galvanized right-angle bracket with holding capacity minimum 5 lbs./LF) fastened with galvanized nails or screws penetrating studs one inch at a minimum of 16 inches on center. Two brackets per sill is preferred if blocking is present. Use construction adhesive to bond stone at bracket locations. Caulk and flash as required at water table/sill locations using an approved corrosion resistive flashing that extends to the surface of the exterior wall finish and is installed to prevent water from re-entering the exterior wall envelope. Failure to properly caulk/flash as described in these installation directions may result in water damage to the structure.

Installing Stone at Ground Level

Keep the finished edge of the Cultured Stone® product a minimum of four inches above grade if earth or two inches above pavement. Use a 2” x 4” leveling strip (straightedge) or weep screed/flashing. Framed (wood or metal) applications are required by code in many jurisdictions to have weep screed.

Supervision checklist for manufactured stone installation:

*Has the proper substrate and waterproofing been installed on the sheathing?

*Has the mason protected the stone and elevated it off the ground?

*Has the mason protected the roof from fallen mortar or damage?

*Has the mason covered the windows and doors to protect them?

*Is the mason being neat with the installation?

*Is the mason cleaning the stone as instructed?

*Has the mason cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for final payment

47-STUCCO INSTALLATION

GLOSSARY OF STUCCO AND PLASTER TERMS

Accelerator: A material that shortens the setting time of gypsum plasters and other cementitious materials

Acoustical Plaster: Sound-absorbing plaster formulated for application where reduction in sound reverberation or intensity is required

Admixture: Any substance added to a plaster component or plaster mortar for the purpose of modifying its properties

Aggregate: An inert granular material, usually silica sand, limestone, perlite, or vermiculite, which may be added to gypsum plaster on the job, or is present in mill-prepared plaster (Fiber may be considered to be an aggregate

Aggregate Fallout: A condition associated with machine gypsum plaster application, where the sand

(usually) aggregate segregates, or “falls out of,” the cementitious slurry during pumping (The plaster or stucco is therefore referred to as having poor sand “carrying” capacity or quality.)

Air-Entrainment: The process by which air in the form of small isolated bubbles is introduced into a mortar while in a liquid or plastic state

Alabaster: A massive, dense, crystalline, softly textured form of nearly pure gypsum

Alligator Cracks: (See craze cracks.)

Alpha Gypsum: A classification of specially processed calcined gypsums of low consistency and high strength

Angle Float: A plaster finishing tool having a surface bent to form a right angle; used to finish interior angles

Basecoat: Any plaster coat applied over lath or other substrate prior to application of the finish coat of plaster (See also scratch coat and brown coat.)

Base Screed: A preformed metal screed with perforated or expanded flanges to provide a ground for plaster, and to separate areas of dissimilar materials

Bead: A strip of sheet metal usually formed with a projecting nosing and one or two perforated or expanded flanges (Nosing provides the plaster base; e.g., corner bead, casing bead, base bead, etc.)

Beading: (See joint deformation.)

Bedding Coat: A coat of plaster (usually Portland cement exterior stucco) that receives lump aggregate or other coarse decorative material (This aggregate is embedded into the soft plaster, prior to set.)

Bleeding: (See watering out.)

Blistering: A condition characterized by bulging of the finish coat layer as it separates and draws away from the basecoat

Body: A subjective and often misused term relating to the working properties of a plastic cementitious mass such as gypsum or Portland cement plaster, generally referring to the relative stiffness or resistance to movement under the trowel

Bonding Agent: A material applied to a surface to improve the quality of bond between it and succeeding plaster application

Bond Failure: (See delamination)

Bond Plaster: A specially formulated gypsum plaster applied over monolithic concrete as a bonding coat for subsequent plaster application

Bottom Screed: This product has holes in the bottom flange to allow any water that might penetrate the stucco to drip out (The bottom screed serves as a screed for the stucco, depending on the thickness, and also serves as a stopping point or cap at the bottom.)

Brown Coat: The second coat applied in the application of a real stucco system (Normally, the first coat, called the scratch coat, will be sprayed with water before the brown coat is applied.) (The brown coat will be applied and troweled smooth before it dries.)

Brown Out: The visual darkening of a plaster surface which indicates the completed setting (hydration) of the plaster.

Bucking: A condition associated with lime putty, veneer and other plastering materials characterized by poor workability or stiffness well before normal setting (This condition may be related to exposure of the dry material (open bag) prior to wet mixing; use of material beyond published shelf life; or rapid dispersion of particles within the plaster when mixed in water.)

Bulk Density: The weight of a material per unit volume expressed as pounds per cubic foot

Bull Nose: A special formed rounded external angle with a radius of 1/29 (12.5 mm) or more; usually associated with Tudor or Spanish architecture

Butterflies or Butterfly: Color imperfections in a lime putty finish coat that smear out under trowel pressure.

Cage-Type Mixing Paddle: A special configuration mixing tool designed to provide high-shear mixing action with minimum air-entrainment in veneer plaster mixing (Provides quick and efficient dispersion of plaster additives to achieve optimum mortar plasticity.)

Calcine: To drive off chemically combined water or carbon dioxide (CO2) by heating

Calcined Gypsum: Partially or fully dehydrated gypsum used as a cementitious base for gypsum plaster

Casing Bead: A single-flange bead used as a plaster stop and as exposed trim around windows and door openings (Also used at junction or intersection of plaster and other wall or ceiling finishes.)

Casting Plaster: (See moulding plaster)

Catface: Blemish or rough depression in the finish coat caused by variation in basecoat thickness, poor finish coat mixing, and/or poor application technique

Cement: A material or mixture of materials that, when in a plastic state, possesses adhesive and cohesive properties and which will set in place

Cementitious Material: A component of plaster (gypsum, Portland cement, etc.) that, when mixed with water, provides plasticity required for placement (On setting, it serves to bind aggregate and filler particles together, forming a rigid heterogeneous mass.)

Cement Plaster: Variously defined as plaster containing Portland cement

Chip Cracks: Fine cracks in a finish plaster coat similar to craze cracks except that bond is partially destroyed, producing concave fragments of the finish

Coat: A thickness or layer of plaster applied in a single operation

Cold Joining: The line at which, or the method by which, two separate plaster applications are jointed to provide a continuous plane surface (The first application set, but did not dry, is terminated at a sharp line using the trowel edge.) (The second application is brought up to the line of set material and finished to provide a smooth continuous surface.) (This method is used where termination of a plaster application at an edge, angle, control joint or bead is impractical.)

Colored Finish: A plaster finish coat containing integrally mixed color pigments or colored aggregates

Combined Water: Water chemically retained as water of crystallization (E.g., in calcium sulfate dihydrate (gypsum) or calcium sulfate hemihydrate.)

Compressive Strength: Maximum load sustained by a material when subjected to a crushing force expressed as pounds per square inch

Consistency: A term denoting the fluidity or viscosity of a plaster or cementitious paste; also refers to the amount of water required to bring a given quantity of dry cementitious material and aggregate to a given fluidity.

Control Joint: (See expansion joint)

Cool: A term referring to relative workability of a plaster application resulting from water absorption of the substrate (usually basecoat), or of a plaster’s tendency to relinquish water to the substrate (A cool basecoat contains substantial free water, either freshly installed and not dried, or re-wet prior to finish application.) (The finish applied to this basecoat will be cool working, or have little tendency to lose its water to the basecoat, thereby maintaining sufficient water to provide easy working and finishing characteristics.)

Corner Reinforcement: Material used at reentrant or interior angles to provide continuity between two intersecting plaster surfaces

Corner Tool: A tool consisting of a right angle (90°) metal form with a handle used for application of plaster and finishing of interior angles

Cove: A concave molding or curved surface used at the junction between a ceiling and a wall

Craze Cracks: Fine, random fissures or cracks of the finish plaster surface caused by plaster shrinkage (These are generally associated with lime finish coat improperly gauged or troweled, or with veneer plasters subjected to rapid-drying job conditions.)

Cure: In gypsum plastering, to provide environmental conditions conducive to complete gypsum hydration (low air movement and moderate temperatures) (In Portland cement plastering, to maintain sufficient quantity of water to complete hydration.)

Darby: A flat wooden or metal tool about 4 to 9-inches wide and 4 to 9-inches long with handles; used to smooth or float the brown coat; also used on finish coat to give a preliminary true and even surface

Delaminating: The physical separation of plaster coats, or of a plaster coat from the substrate, that results from chemical or physical impairment of plaster bond to previous coats or other substrates

Dew Point: The point at which air becomes saturated with water vapor and condenses to form dew

Diamond Mesh: Types of metal lath having small diamond pattern produced by slitting and expanding of metal sheets (See expanded metal lath.)

Dolomitic: A type of limestone containing calcium carbonate, with up to 50% magnesium carbonate

(Also refers to the quicklime or hydrated lime derivatives of this type of limestone.)

Dope: A term used by plasterers for additives of any type that adjust setting, workability or bond characteristics

Dot: A small lump of plaster placed on a surface (usually scarified basecoat) between grounds to assist the plasterer in obtaining the proper plaster thickness and aid in aligning the surface

Double Hydrated Lime: Calcium magnesium hydroxide Ca (OH)2 • Mg (OH)2, the product obtained from reaction of water with dolomitic quicklime (CaO • MgO) (When mixed with water, forms a plastic paste (lime putty) which may be mixed with gauging plaster and applied as a finish plaster coat.)

Double-Up: Successive plaster coat application with no setting or drying time allowed between coats, usually associated with veneer plastering (The double-up coat is applied (from the same mix) to a scratch coat over gypsum base.)

Drag: A workability problem encountered during knockdown or finish troweling, where excessive pressure is required to draw the trowel across the surface to smooth it (This occurs when the material has not retained sufficient surface moisture to lubricate the trowel; in the extreme, the trowel may skip or “chatter” across the surface, creating ripples.)

Dry-Out: A condition caused by excessive evaporation or substrate water absorption, when the plaster loses some or all of the water required for hydration (setting) (It appears as a light-colored soft area.)

Early Stiffening: Low plasticity (hard or poor workability) of plaster occurring substantially prior to actual setting (hydration) reaction (See also bucking)

Efflorescence: A white, powdery surface deposit sometimes found on plaster or masonry (This results from migration of soluble salts to the surface.) (Also called “whiskering” or “saltpetering”)

Eggshelling: (See chip cracks)

Electric Radiant Heat: A heating system comprised of an electric resistance heating cable attached to radiant heat plaster base, and covered in two coats with a specially formulated heat-resistant plaster

Ettringite: A dimensionally unstable material formed when gypsum plasters or gypsum-containing materials intimately contact Portland cements in the presence of excess moisture

Expanded Metal Lath: A general term to denote slit and drawn sheet metal forming openings of various configurations (Used as a plaster base)

Expansion Joint: A PVC plastic that is applied to the wall at particular locations that are normally going to produce a crack (Usually, stucco will produce a hairline crack at outside corners of window and door frames.) (To try to prevent these cracks, an expansion joint is installed into the wall.)

False Set: Rapid stiffening (not setting) of Portland cement plaster, which can be counteracted through additional mixing (Similar reactions with lime and gypsum plaster are described as bucking or early stiffening.)

Fat: A mixture of fine lime and/or gypsum particles and water accumulated on the trowel during the finishing operation, which is used to fill in small surface imperfections

Feather Edge: A metal or wood tool having a beveled edge (Used in finish coat work to straighten reentrant angles.)

Fibered Plaster: Usually a basecoat plaster containing animal (hair), vegetable or glass fibers, which promote cohesiveness in the mix

Finish Coat: The last layer of plaster applied in a multilayer application

Finishing Brushes: Brushes used to apply water to a smooth lime finish coat during final troweling (May be fiber or felt type)

Fish Eyes: A term describing small blemishes (about 1/50-inch in diameter) (Found in lime/gauging finish coats, caused by insufficient finish-coat mixing.)

Flashing: A “photographing” or “see-through” effect observed with plaster finishes applied over block or tile mortar joints, plaster base joints, and beads or trims, where non uniform water absorption can occur

Flash Set: See quick set)

Float: A tool or procedure used to straighten and level the finish coat, to correct surface irregularities produced by other tools, and to impart a distinctive surface texture

Float Finish: Finish-coat texture that is rougher than a smooth trowel finish, and which is derived from aggregate in the mortar

Fresco: An artistic or decorative medium consisting of a water-soluble paint applied to freshly applied plaster

Furring: A term applied to spacer elements (channels, rods or strips) (Used to maintain a space between a plaster application and the structural elements behind it.)

Gauging: A cementitious material, such as gypsum plaster, Keene’s cement or Portland cement, added to lime putty to provide and control set (Also the act of adding gauging material.)

Glass Fiber Tape: Glass fiber mesh material of various widths used to reinforce joints in veneer plaster applications over gypsum base (Attached with staples or pressure-sensitive adhesive.)

Green: A term to describe freshly applied plaster that has set, but has not dried

Ground: Piece of wood or metal attached to the plaster base so that its exposed surface acts as a gauge to define the thickness of plaster to be applied (Also a term used to denote plaster thickness.)

Grout: Gypsum or Portland cement plaster used to fill crevices or to fill hollow metal door and window frames

Gypsite: A surface gypsum deposit containing loam, clay, sand and humus impurities (Gypsum content ranges from 60 % to more than 90 %.)

Gypsum: Hydrated Calcium Sulfate (A naturally occurring mineral that, when calcined, serves as the base to formulate plastering materials and other building products.)

Gypsum Lath: A plaster base manufactured in sheets of various dimensions (Composed of special gypsum core surfaced with multilayered absorptive face paper suitable to receive gypsum plasters.)

Gypsum Partition Tile (Block): A cast gypsum building unit of various dimensions for use in non loadbearing interior construction for protection of columns, elevator shafts, etc., against fire

Gypsum Plaster: Ground calcined gypsum combined with various additives to achieve specific application, working and set characteristics

Hand Tool: A term referring to a method of application of plastering materials using a hawk and trowel

Hard Wall: A generic term referring to conventional gypsum basecoat plaster

Hawk: A tool used by plasterers to hold and carry plaster

Hemihydrate: Calcined gypsum used for plaster formulation.

High Calcium Lime: A type of lime containing mainly calcium oxide or hydroxide and not more than 5% magnesium oxide or hydroxide

Hoddability: A term describing the ease with which a plaster may be handled with a hod or hawk (Depends on plaster flow characteristics and angle of repose.)

Hold-Out: The water retention characteristic or property of a plaster

Hot: Opposite of cool: refers to plaster working characteristics, where reduced spread and plasticity result from excessive basecoat absorption of available water from the plaster (Or plaster that has an increased tendency to relinquish available water to the basecoat.)

Hydrate: To chemically combine water as in the hydration of calcined gypsum

Hygrometric Movement: The dimensional response (expansion or contraction) of gypsum laths and set cementitious materials due to a variation in relative humidity

Inhibitor: (See retarder)

Joint: The junction of two masonry, (gypsum lath or other plastering bases), in a plane surface

Joint Deformation: Deviation of the formed joint from a plane surface; may be referred to as “ridging,”

“beading,” “lipping” or “stepping” of the joint (Condition may be caused by improper lath attachment; improper joint treatment to achieve reinforcement; irregular water absorption over the joint; abnormal substrate movement in response to thermal, hygrometric (humidity), structural and other construction influences.)

Journeyman: A plasterer or lather who, through training and experience, has become thoroughly skilled in the trade

Keenes Cement: An anhydrous gypsum plaster of low consistency that, when mixed with lime putty, provides a dense, hard finished surface (This material is unique in that it may be retempered using water and reworked with a trowel to resume the plastic, workable state.)

Knock-Down: An intermediate plaster finishing step where sizable surface imperfections of the partially stiffened plaster application are removed prior to final finish troweling

Land Plaster: Coarse-ground natural gypsum that is calcined for the manufacture of gypsum plasters

Latex Modifiers: Dry powder or emulsified admixtures that improve plaster plasticity, surface hardness and compressive strength of the set material (They improve the bond between plaster and base.)

Lath: A metal or gypsum material applied separately to a structure that serves as a base for plaster

Lean Mixture: Any plaster which has a high ratio of aggregate to cementitious material (Usually exhibits poor working characteristics.)

Lightweight Aggregate: Low-density, inert aggregates such as vermiculite and perlite (as opposed to silica sand and pumice)

Lime: The principal product derived from calcining various types of limestone consisting of oxides or hydroxides of calcium or magnesium

Lime Plaster: A basecoat plaster consisting of lime and aggregate

Lime Putty: A finishing material resulting from slaking of quicklime or soaking and mixing hydrated lime with water to form a plastic mass (Usually mixed with a gauging plaster or gauging and aggregate as a finish over basecoat.)

Machine Application: Plaster application by mechanical means (Generally by pumping and spraying.)

Mason’s Lime: (See type “N” hydrated lime)

Mechanical Bond: The physical kerfing of one plaster coat to another, or to a plaster base (E.g., clinching of plaster keys to expanded metal lath, and the bond obtained between adjacent plaster coats by brooming or cross-raking the first coat prior to set.)

Metal Lath: A metallic plaster base manufactured from sheet metal by slitting and expanding, or by punching and forming

Mortar: A plastic mixture composed of water and a cementitious material, which may be machine or hand applied, and which hardens in place

Neat: A basecoat gypsum plaster product produced and supplied without aggregate (It is intended to be job mixed with aggregate, such as sand, perlite or vermiculite.)

Moulding Plaster: A fine-grind, high-consistency hemihydrate gypsum that, when mixed with water, yields a pourable slurry for casting ornamental trim units or decorative plaster run-work

One-Coat System: Veneer plastering; the veneer finish is applied to veneer gypsum base or other approved substrate in a scratch and double-up method (Both “coats” from the same batch.)

Open Time: The amount of time, from the point of mixing, during which a plaster retains a plastic workable consistency, until it becomes too stiff to be applied

Paperback Lathe: Metal lathe that is a diamond-shaped, galvanized-metal product (The lathe is backed with felt paper and acts as a moisture barrier.

Parge: To coat with plaster (Usually refers to application to foundation walls and rough masonry.)

Pencil Rods: Mild steel rods used to provide rigid internal reinforcement of the base for plaster application

Perlite: A siliceous volcanic glass that, when expanded by heat, is used as a lightweight plaster aggregate

Plaster: A cementitious material or combination of cementitious materials and aggregate that, when mixed with water, forms a plastic mass (When applied to a surface, plaster adheres to it and subsequently sets or hardens, preserving in a rigid state the form or texture imposed during the period of plasticity.)

Plaster of Paris: Hemihydrate gypsum without set control additives, used in casting and industrial applications

Plasticity: The property of plaster that permits continuous and permanent deformation in any direction

Plasticizer: An admixture to improve plasticity, workability, and spread under the trowel

Popping: (See chip cracks)

Portland Cement: A cementitious material made by heating a mixture of limestone and clay containing oxides of calcium, aluminum, iron and silicon in a kiln, and pulverizing the resultant clinker (This material is usually mixed with lime and aggregate for exterior plastering (stucco work), or in interior construction in areas where high resistance to moisture is required.)

Potassium Aluminum Sulfate (Alum): A generally recognized accelerator of gypsum plaster (Usually spray applied as a solution to dry basecoat plaster or faded veneer gypsum base to promote bond of subsequent layers of plaster.)

Pressure-Sensitive Tape: An open-weave, glass-fiber joint reinforcement tape used in veneer finishing

(Coated with a pressure-sensitive adhesive for easy application to base without need for staple attachment.)

Putty Coat: A smooth-troweled finish plaster coat containing lime putty and a gauging plaster

Quicklime: Materials produced by burning or calcining limestone (For plastering, quicklime is slaked with water to hydrate the material.) (The resulting lime putty is gauged for use as a finish coat.)

Quick Set: Premature hardening (setting) of a plaster (This condition may be attributed to improper job use of accelerator, damp plaster prior to mixing, contamination of the mix (rusty or dirty mixing water, equipment or tools), or other factors.)

Rake: A plastering tool with tines (teeth) that is used to roughen or scarify basecoat plaster application prior to set (Promotes mechanical bond with the finish-coat plaster layer.)

Rapid Drying Conditions: Job environmental conditions that cause premature removal of water from the plaster (prior to set), which results in incomplete hydration of the gypsum plaster (E.g., high temperature, low relative humidity and high air movement.) (These conditions promote dry-out and a variety of shrinkage cracking problems as a result of rapid and excessive evaporation.)

Rapid Plaster: Gypsum neat plaster “Type R”; calcined hemihydrate gypsum mill-mixed with materials to control set and working properties

Relative Humidity: The ratio of the amount of water vapor actually present in the air to the greatest amount possible at the same temperature (Expressed as a percentage.)

Retarder: An admixture used to delay the setting action of plasters or other cementitious materials

Retempering: A procedure whereby plaster (usually Keenes cement or Portland cement) is remixed to a workable consistency using water and/or mechanical action

Rod: A straightedge tool of various lengths used to straighten the surface of wall and ceiling plaster applications

Runwork: A plaster installation where the material is applied in a continuous formed method using a metal or wood template (Usually done as a decorative application at wall/ceiling junctions.)

Sag: A warping condition in ceiling construction where the lath and plaster bow down from the framing members (Can result from a variety of causes, such as improper framing, spacing, long-setting plaster, slow drying conditions, excessive weight of insulation, and improper placement of vapor barrier.)

Salamander: A portable gas or oil-burning heater used at a jobsite to provide minimum comfortable working conditions and prevent freezing of plaster

Sand: Loose granular aggregate resulting from natural disintegration of siliceous rock or from crushing of friable sandstone (Serves as inert filler and provides internal expansion and contraction stress relief in plaster mix, minimizing cracking problems.)

Sand Coat: (See scratch coat)

Sand Float: A method of texturing a sanded finish coat that raises sand particles to the plaster surface through use of a dampened sponge or sponge rubber float

Scaffold: A temporary platform or network of support members erected at a jobsite to permit safe and convenient construction, repair or cleaning of a structure

Scarifier: (See rake)

Screed: To level or straighten a plaster coat application with a rod, darby or other similar tool (e.g., a “screed” bar).

Scratch Coat: The first coat of stucco to be applied (This coat is applied over the metal lathe and allowed to set up a little.) (A stucco scratch coat rake is used to create grooves in the stucco so the next coat will bond better to the first coat.

Scrim: Woven natural or artificial fiber material coated with a binder or binder and adhesive (Used to provide joint reinforcement.)

Setting Time: The elapsed time required for a cementitious material to attain a specified hardness after mixing with water (The set time is a physical indicator for the chemical reaction of hydration in gypsum plasters.)

Sheet Lath: Metal lath formed by punching perforations in steel sheets (Made from heavier gauge steel than expanded metal lath and has greater stiffness.)

Skim Coat: A thin finish plaster coat troweled smooth

Slaked Lime: (See hydrated lime)

Slicker: A beveled device sometimes used by a plasterer in place of a darby to level and smooth a plaster coat

Slip: A plaster workability characteristic relating to the relative ease with which the trowel is drawn over the plaster surface both during application and after the coat has stiffened or “taken up”

Spalling: (See chip cracking)

Spread: A term referring to the extendibility or coverage obtained with a plaster; sometimes used incorrectly to refer to plaster workability

Staff: Fiber-reinforced ornamental plaster casts

Stilts: Devices employed by plasterers which are strapped to the feet, providing an elevated footrest to permit ceiling and high wall application without use of cumbersome scaffolding.

Storage Life: The time during which packaged material can be stored under specified temperature and humidity conditions and remain suitable for use

Stucco: A cementitious material used in exposed exterior building construction.

Suction: The absorptive quality of a surface, such as concrete masonry, gypsum lath, previous plaster coat, etc., which is to be plastered

Sweatout: A defective gypsum plaster condition characterized by a soft, damp area remaining after the surrounding area has set (This is usually caused by insufficient ventilation, which inhibits normal drying.)

Take-Up: The loss of water of a plaster into the absorptive substrate during application (As evidenced by a moderate stiffening of the plaster coat.)

Template: A gauge or pattern used as a guide to produce arches, curves and other shapes or forms of a repetitive nature (see: Runwork).)

Texture: A patterned plaster finish as contrasted to a smooth finish

Thermal Shock: Stress created by an extreme or sudden change in temperature that may result in cracking of plaster after application

Thixotropy: The property of a plastic mass that enables the material to achieve higher fluidity on agitation, and to thicken on subsequent rest

Three-Coat Plastering: The application of plaster in three successive coats—scratch, brown, finish— leaving time between coats for setting and/or drying of the plaster

Tie Wire: Soft annealed steel wire used to joint lath supports, attach metal lath to supports, and reinforce metal lath joints

Torpedo Sand: A natural, well graded plastering sand

Trowel: A tool used by a plasterer to apply, spread, shape and smooth plaster

Two-Coat Plastering: (See double-up)

Two-Coat System: A veneer plasters installation consisting of a veneer basecoat and finish coat (Each coat is applied using the scratch and double-up method, with the basecoat allowed to set prior to finish coat application.)

Type “N” hydrated lime: (see type “S” hydrated lime)

Type “R” Hydrated Lime: (See rapid plaster)

Type “S” Hydrated Lime: A special hydrated finishing lime, distinguished from type “N” (normal or mason’s hydrated finishing lime) by restrictions on the amount of unhydrated oxides

Type “X” Base: A gypsum lath with specially formulated core to increase fire retardant properties and improve system fire-resistance rating.

Ultraviolet Radiation (UV light): The component of sunlight that can degrade gypsum-lath face paper to produce organic acids (These acids react with an alkaline veneer plaster, forming a potent retarder at the plaster/gypsum base interface, and destroying the mechanical bond of the plaster to the gypsum base.)

Undercoat: (See basecoat)

Unsound: A term referring to the condition of a plaster installation whereby the hardened mass has lost internal strength, exhibiting cracking, spalling, delamination, etc. (This general state may be contributed to by excessive aggregate addition, water damage, poor drying conditions, overwatering and other factors.)

Veneer Gypsum Base: A special lath four feet (1.22 m) wide and in various lengths, having blue-tinted face paper (Used as a plaster base for one-and two-coat veneer plaster applications.)

Veneer Plaster: A calcined gypsum plaster specially formulated to provide specific workability, strength, hardness and abrasion-resistance characteristics when applied in thin coats over veneer gypsum base or other approved base (The term thin-coat plaster is sometimes used in reference to veneer plaster.)

Vermiculite: A micaceous mineral expanded by heat and used as a lightweight plastering aggregate

Water-Out: A plaster condition indicative of a poor water retention characteristic. When at rest on a mortar board, the plaster loses or “weeps” free water in puddles or depressions in the mass.

Water Retention: The ability or characteristic of a plaster to retain sufficient water, when applied to an absorptive surface

Weeping: (See water-out)

White Coat: A gauged lime putty finish plaster or, more generally, any white finish plaster coat

Wood Fiber: (See aggregate)

Wood Fiber Plaster: A mill-prepared gypsum plaster formulated with shredded or ground-wood fiber; usually used as a scratch coat over expanded metal lath

Workability: A general term encompassing the performance of a plaster mortar under the trowel in terms of spread, plasticity and slip

Stucco can be considered as a component of a structure’s wall and ceiling assembly. It is usually either the last, or next-to-last, element to be installed. Stucco is selected because it possesses characteristics that no other component of the wall assembly can provide. Among its major functions, stucco serves as a refining element, as it can conceal and correct minor deviations in the alignment of the other wall system components and provide a base for decoration.

Walls made of genuine stucco sound solid when tapped and will be less likely to suffer damage from a hard blow. Furthermore, genuine stucco holds up well in wet conditions. Although it is porous and will absorb moisture, it will dry easily, limiting damage to the structure.

Lesson 1: Install at least two layers of building wrap under the stucco.

The evidence is overwhelming: One layer of asphalt felt or Grade D building paper is not enough protection under stucco. This fact is now reflected in most building codes. For example, section R703.6.3 of the International Residential Code requires that “exterior plaster” (stucco) be installed over “a water-resistive vapor-permeable barrier with a performance at least equivalent to two layers of Grade D paper.”

Lesson 2: Install a ventilated rainscreen gap.

Many stucco installers believe that two layers of Grade D paper or asphalt felt creates a “drainage gap” between the two layers of paper. The idea is that when the wet stucco mixture is troweled onto the metal lath, the stucco soaks the outermost layer of paper, which wrinkles when it dries. These wrinkles are said to create a drainage gap.

Although the theory has some merit, thousands of failed walls have shown that two layers of paper are not enough to prevent OSB from rotting. Whatever wrinkles exist in the paper are not enough to allow water to drain or to allow the stucco wall to dry faster than it gets wet.

Stucco absorbs water every time it rains, and it dries very slowly. To prevent wet-wall problems, it is essential to include a true ventilated rainscreen gap behind stucco. The gap needs to measure at least 3/8 inch.

If you are installing stucco over OSB or plywood, here is how to create a ventilated rainscreen gap:

Install at least one layer of WRB—housewrap, asphalt felt, or Grade D building paper—over the wall sheathing.

Install a three-dimensional plastic drainage mat (for example, Cedar Breather) over the WRB. It is also possible to purchase all-in-one products that marry a three-dimensional plastic mat with a WRB backing. Such products include the WaterWay rainscreen drainage mat, the Korax Stucco Rainscreen Panel, the Home Slicker Stone & Stucco rainscreen, the Mortairvent mortar deflection and ventilation system, and Delta-Dry.

Install at least one more layer of asphalt felt or Grade D paper on top of the drainage matrix.

Install galvanized (expanded metal) or fiberglass lath, and proceed with a standard installation of three-coat stucco.

If you are installing stucco over foam, here is how to create a ventilated rainscreen gap:

Install 1’ x 3’ or 1’ x 4’ vertical strapping on top of the foam, screwed through the foam into the studs.

Fasten paper-backed metal lath to the strapping, and proceed with a standard installation of three-coat stucco.

If your local building inspector raises questions about the number and size of the screws you plan to use to fasten your 1’ x 4’ strapping, you may need to get an engineer to review your details. As long as you have an engineer’s stamp, your local building department should be happy.

Lesson 3: Follow best practices for moisture management.

It should be obvious that any house needs adequate flashing and moisture-management details. However, such details are often missing or installed backward. If your house has wide roof overhangs, your walls may survive such errors. If roof overhangs are stingy, however, and if your siding is a slow-drying siding like stucco, your walls may be in trouble.

So here are the basics:

Asphalt felt, building paper, or housewrap must be lapped shingle fashion so that upper courses lap over lower courses. Any window flashings or door flashings must be integrated with the water-resistive barrier in a way that respects these laps.

Windows and doors need pan flashing at sills and Z-flashing at heads. Ideally, the Z-flashing will include end dams.

Roof rakes that intersect walls (as when a single-story garage is attached to a two-story house) need kick-out flashing to prevent water dripping off the roof from soaking the wall below.

Roof overhangs should be generous, not stingy.

Lesson 4: Do not raise the grade around your house.

Since stucco siding is made from Portland cement and sand, many homeowners confuse stucco with concrete. That is why it is fairly common for homeowners to raise the grade around their house until the grade is above the home’s wood framing. After all, the homeowner thinks, the stucco looks similar to the foundation—so why can’t I backfill against it?

Supervision checklist for stucco installation:

*Has the contractor wrapped all the windows and doors to protect them?

*Has the contractor installed at least two layers of building wrap under the stucco?

*Has the contractor installed a ventilated rainscreen gap as suggested? This allows any entrapped moisture to be able to flow unimpeded behind the stucco to an exit point.

*Has the contractor protected the roof from fallen mortar and damage?

*Has the contractor followed the guidelines for the various coats?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for final payment.

48-FLATWORK

The concrete contractor will install any driveways, sidewalks, patios, foundations for brick mailboxes, pads for AC compressors and any other peripheral installations.

Installing flatwork, if done correctly is another supervision intensive operation. The forms have to be set at the correct elevation to ensure that water will not hold on the completed surface. Using a laser level makes the work much easier than in the old days.

Another consideration, is keeping the driveway located away from emerging growth trees such as Oak trees. The root system can uplift and destroy a driveway or sidewalk.

It is desirable to use steel rebar in the concrete versus wire mesh. You will have far better, long lasting results.

Figure 421- Setting driveway forms Chamber’s residence

Figure 422-Drilling holes in forms to install steel rebar-Chamber’s residence

Another subject for consideration is to install under-slab conduit piping for future installations such as lawn sprinkler piping, gas lines for driveway entry lighting, electric line for gate motors, and low voltage wiring for Malibu lighting. It is extremely difficult to make these installations if you did not make provisions for access. Figure 424 shows typical piping installation. Always use 4 inch diameter pipe as a conduit

Figure 423-Installing under-slab conduit Chamber’s residence

Figure 424-Cutting rebar for length Chamber’s residence

When installing rebar, it is a good idea to install expansion sleeves on the ends of the rebar that protrude into an adjoining section of flatwork. This prevents the rebar from being locked up. You want the driveway to expand and contract with being impeded. Figure 426 shows expansion sleeves being installed. The sleeves are closed on the one end. Figure 427 shows a completed forming operation. This gives you one last opportunity to make sure the forms are at the correct elevation and all rebar is installed.

Figure 425-Installing expansion sleeves on rebar Chamber’s residence

Figure 426-Completed forming and setting steel Chamber’s residence

Figure 427-Placing concrete in forms Chamber’s residence

Figure 428-Removing forms the next day Chamber’s residence

The concrete mix will generally be the same as the house foundation. The minimum mix should be 3,000 psi with 5 inch slump. This is the specifications for the concrete being placeed in Figure 428. As in the house foundation, adding too much water will cause the aggregate in the concrete to separate from the cement causing an extremely weak mix.

Scheduling-The Chambers residence had 3250 square feet of flatwork. The job was completed from start to finish in 3 days doing all the right things.

Supervision checklist for flatwork:

*Did you coordinate with the owner about the shape and location of any flatwork?

*Did you make sure that the forms are set at the proper grade? This is one of those occasions when you have to work very closely with the contractor.

*Did you have the contractor install PVC sleeves under the forms at strategic locations? The sleeves can be used for passing future installations under the concrete, such as sprinkler lines, gas lines for lighting, electrical conduit, etc.

*Has the contractor used #3 steel rebar spaced between 14 and 18 inches on center each way? Good construction practices will mandate this. No wire mesh should be used for any flatwork.

*Have the expansion sleeves been installed? Not a lot of contractors will do this unless told to, but the ones that want their work to last a long time will.

*Have you performed a pre-concrete inspection? This gives you that one last opportunity to make sure everything is in place.

*Have you made certain that the contractor is using the proper mix of concrete?

*Has the contractor wrecked the forms?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

49-SPECIAL CONCRETE FINISHES

Special finishes could include pattern concrete, seeded aggregate, dye, acid staining, and epoxy coatings. Special finishes can apply to interior and exterior applications. You only want to hire a very experienced concrete finisher for this operation.

Supervision checklist for special concrete finishes:

*If the special finish is on the interior, have all trades from the framing carpenter on been notified to protect the affected area from damage? You would not want the framing carpenter nailing any bracing to this area. You wouldn’t want the plumber spilling any primers or glue to these areas.

*Do you have a firm commitment from the owner as to the design, color, and finish? You never want to start this work without that commitment.

*Does the owner understand that the finished result could look a little different than the original sample? This is especially true if the selection was made from a magazine picture or online. You never want to start this work unless you have this understanding with the customer.

*Have you researched the process and determined that the contractor is preparing the surface correctly? The internet has tons of information regarding concrete finishes. Most finishes interact with the Portland cement in the concrete to produce the desired effect.

50-FLASHING INSTALLATION

FLASHING TERMINOLOGY

Apron flashing: metal flashing used at chimney fronts

Base flashing: found at the base of a wall and usually incorporates through-wall flashing with weep holes to permit the escape of water (may be placed at the building grade or at a point where a roof intersects a wall)

Channel flashing: a flashing for steep-slope roof construction used at two-wall junctures and other roof-to-vertical plane intersections where an internal is needed to handle runoff (commonly used with profile tile)

Counter flashing: the metal or siding material that is installed and lapped over rooftop base flashing systems

Flashing: components used to weatherproof or seal the roof system edges at penetrations, walls, expansion joints, valley, drains, and other places the roof covering is interrupted or terminated

Flashing cement: a cement used by the roofing industry (an ASTM D 2822 type II roof) that is a trowelable mixture of solvent-based bitumen and mineral stabilizers, which may include asbestos or other inorganic or organic fibers (generally characterized as vertical grade, which indicates it is intended for use on surfaces)

Flashing collar (roof jack/flashing boot): an accessory used to cover and/or seal soil pipe vents and other penetrations through the roof

L-flashing: continuous metal flashings consisting of several feet of metal used at horizontal walls and bent to resemble an “L”

Metal flashing: accessory components fabricated from sheet metal and used to terminate roof-covering edges or as through-wall, cap flashing (coping), counter flashing, step flashing, etc. (see flashing)

Ridge cap: a material or covering applied over the ridge of a roof

Ridge course: the last or top course of roofing materials, such as tile, roll roofing, etc., that covers the ridge and overlaps the intersecting field roofing

Ridge vent: a ventilator located at the ridge that allows the escape of warm and/or air from the attic area or rafter cavity (most either metal or flexible, shingle-over type)

Roof flashing: flashings that are placed around discontinuities or objects that protrude from the roof of a building, such as pipes and chimneys or the edges of other roofs, to deflect water away from seams or joints

Step flashing: metal flashing pieces installed at sidewalls and chimneys for weatherproofing

Sill flashing: a concealed flashing that is typically placed under windowsills or door thresholds to prevent water from entering a wall at those points

Wall flashing: a flashing that may be embedded in a wall to direct water that has penetrated the wall back outside or may be applied in a manner intended to prevent the entry of water into the wall (typically found at interruptions in the wall, such as windows and points of structural support)

Some flashing work is so complex it can only be performed by an experienced sheet metal contractor. Where contractors get into trouble is when they try to install flashing that they are not qualified to do. This can lead to serious damage issues, and who is going to pay for that bill?

Figure 429-Saw cutting a flashing reglet

Figure 430-Photo of counter-flashing and step flashing

Supervision checklist for flashing installation:

*Is the contractor experienced at installing counter-flashing?

*Is the contractor protecting the roof and surrounding area from debris?

*Is the contractor going to paint the high-profile finished flashing?

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

51-SPECIAL METALWORK

This category represents special installations, such as a copper roof on a bay window extension or a cupola. These items are price specific and will be special order. This type of work can only be done by the most experienced sheet metal fabricators.

52- WROUGHT IRON

Figure 431-Wrought iron gate

Figure 432-Decorative wrought iron railing

This is very much a specialty item. As in anything else, there are good ornamental iron contractors and some who are not so good. Since this is such a high-profile item, my suggestion is to spend what is necessary to get the best contractor in your area.

GLOSSARY OF WROUGHT IRON TERMS

Field: the wrought iron design area between the cap of the handrail and the bottom steel runner

Four-inch ball rule: a safety feature to prevent children and small animals from becoming stuck, which dictates that none of the spaces within the field are large enough so that a four-inch ball can pass through them

Handrail: the wood or metal portion of the railing that is held onto while walking, climbing, or descending (industry standards run from 1 /14 up to 2.25 inches)

Lateral: the curved portion of the cap rail and handrail that turns to meet the newel post

Newel post: the post at the bottom of the stairway at which the handrail and top rail end

Pickets: the vertical design elements that are positioned within the field to give the railing part of its design

Upper and lower rails: the horizontal “bars” or lengths of steel into which the field is built

Supervision checklist for wrought iron installation:

*Is the wrought iron style and design what the customer ordered? You better make sure of this.

*Is the foundation for a wrought iron gate being built strong enough to support the weight? The gates as shown in Figure 432 are extremely heavy.

*Has all exterior wrought iron been powder coated? You’ll regret it if you don’t. It doesn’t take long for rust to set in.

*Are the gates aligned properly with equal spacing between them?

*Is the spacing of balusters in compliance with IRC Section 311? The balusters shall be spaced so that a 4 inch diameter sphere cannot pass through any opening.

*Is the handrail height in compliance with IRC Section 311? The height of the handrail measured vertically from the edge of the nosing cannot be less than 34 inches and no more than 38 inches high.

*Is the handrail grip size in compliance with IRC R311.7.8.3? This one is lengthy, so you’ll need to read this section from the IRC to determine which option is appropriate for your handrail.

*Is the contractor protecting the surrounding areas from damage? This is always a consideration with all the trades. Do not ever assume that they are always going to do the right thing.

53-FINISH CARPENTRY

We went into great detail about finish trim carpentry in Chapter 3. Now we are at the point where the finish work begins. Take time to familiarize yourself with finish carpentry terms. I am sure you are going to have to refer back to them on more than one occasion. The trim carpenter is a big player in the final appearance of the home. There’s no end to the possibilities of finish trim installations. Everybody wants to cram in all the cabinetry and moldings they can. The theory is if they do not get it done now, they never will. The only problem with this is that it can get expensive in a hurry. Never lose sight of your construction budget.

For the purposes of explanation and scheduling, we break finish carpentry down into four categories. These categories are:

Cabinetry (whether they are factory-built cabinets or built on site)

Interior doors

Stair assembly

Finish trim

CABINETRY-subcategory of finish carpentry

GLOSSARY OF CABINET TERMS

Beaded Door: This is a flat-panel cabinet door design that incorporates a vertical beaded texture on the recessed panel area of the door. The wood door frame is more simple and constructed with cane-and-stick joinery.

Cathedral: This is a door style with a uniquely curved top, similar to church windows on the wall cabinet doors.

Concealed hinge: This is a cabinet built where the hinge is attached to the inside edge of the face frame and to the back of the door. This type of cabinet construction hides the hinge from outside of the cabinet.

Distressing: This is a technique where small indentions, notches, scuffs, etc., are made in the wood to produce an aged look.

Dovetail: This is a construction method used to reinforce the joining of two perpendicular parts. Wooden cabinet drawer boxes are commonly dovetailed.

Drawer bottom: This is the inside bottom piece of cabinet drawers.

Drawer front: This is the face of the drawer that coordinates with the door style.

Drawer guides: This is the hardware installed on drawers that supports the gliding motion of the drawer. The specific drawer guide used varies depending on the drawer construction select.

Filler: This is a piece used to fill any gaps in cabinetry design that is not filled by cabinets to make the design fit the room precisely.

Flat panel: This is a recessed center panel to a door or drawer design conveying Transitional, Shaker, or Arts and Crafts styling.

Framed cabinets: The traditional framed cabinet has a front frame around the cabinet opening to which the door is attached. These are the most popular type of cabinets in the United States and are easier to install than frameless cabinetry because of their recessed end panels and rigid front frame. Framed cabinets are available in traditional and full-overlay styling, which are explained below. Framed construction utilizes glue, staple-and-dowel, or screw construction.

Frameless cabinets: The frameless, or European-style cabinets, have no front frame. The doors are attached directly to the sides of the cabinet. Frameless cabinets, which are more contemporary in style, offer the advantage of completely unobstructed access to the cabinet interior because there is no front frame. Frameless construction utilizes pin-and-dowel construction.

Full-extension drawer guide: These are cabinet drawer glides that allow the drawer to be completely extended to the back of the drawer. Full-extension drawers provide complete access to the depth of the drawer box when opening the cabinet drawer.

Full overlay: These are cabinet door styles that cover most of the face frame, giving prominence to the door and drawer design.

Furniture board; This is a board substrate that is manufactured using wood particles, adhesives, and resins under extremely high pressure to bond the material together.

Mullion: This is the vertical division of a double-width window, or the intermediate vertical frame member of a two- or three-door cabinet.

Mullion doors: Mullion doors have glass inserts in place of the typical solid center panel for a more stylish appearance. The inserts have horizontal and vertical dividing bars similar to those in windowpanes.

Overlay: This is a door style that covers half an inch of the face frame at the top and bottom, leaving 1.25 inches of the face frame exposed.

Rail: These are the horizontal pieces of the frames, such as face frames and door frames.

Raised panel: This is a term used to describe a door style where a thick center panel is machined to be flush with the door frame, thus giving the depth appearance by the sloping “raise” of the panel.

Recessed panel: This is a term used to describe a door style where a thinner panel is inserted into the grooves of the wood door frame that gives a “recessed” appearance, i.e. flat panel. A flat panel held inside the perimeter of a door. A flat panel recesses between the stiles and rails.

Semi-custom cabinets: Semi-custom cabinets offer fewer options than “custom cabinets” and are available in a number of different sizes, shapes, wood species, and finishes. Semi-custom cabinetry provides customers with a limited number of styling options in both their framed and frameless offerings that include such things as reduced depths, increased depths, matching interiors, inverted frames, etc. Sales of Semi-custom cabinets are much less than those of stock cabinetry in the industry.

Soffit: A soffit or “bulkhead” is the area between a ceiling and the top of wall cabinets and usually 12 inches high and extending out over the wall cabinets.

Solid wood: This is a door with a solid wood center panel is comprised of boards that are joined or glued together to form the width of the center panel. Because natural woods have variations in color and grain pattern from board to board, these variations will be apparent in a solid-wood door. Predictably, a solid-wood door is more expensive than a veneered door.

Stock cabinets: Stock cabinets, which offer fewer options than either “custom” or “semi-custom” cabinetry, are also available in a number of different sizes, shapes, wood species, and finishes. Stock cabinetry provides customers with a very limited number of styling options in both their framed and frameless offerings. Sales of stock cabinets are greater than those of either custom or semi-custom cabinetry in the industry.

Veneer: A veneer is a thin piece (1/32 of an inch) of solid wood that is attached with glue to a substrate (usually “particleboard” in raised panel doors and “hardboard” in flat or recessed panel doors). Veneered components are more uniform in finish and grain consistency. Veneered center panels in doors provide stability by minimizing its shrinking and expansion in dry and moist climates, thereby eliminating cracking and splitting.

If the cabinets are going to be shop-built, then the cabinet maker needs to come to the job site and take any necessary dimensions of the available space. At the same time, they can put a level on the walls and floor to see what compensations made need to be allowed for.

If the cabinets are going to be factory-built, then the carpenter or other knowledgeable person needs to measure the available space to see what size cabinets need to be ordered. This really should be taking place after the drywall is hung but before taping and finishing begin. Ordering time is of the essence.

If the cabinets are going to be job-built, then the carpenter will need to make an order list of all the materials necessary to build the cabinets. This take-off work should also be done right after the drywall is hung, but before taping and finishing begins. This is the main reason that I like to have the drywall contractor hang the drywall in the kitchen first, especially if this is a large home

Supervision checklist for cabinet installation:

*Is the carpenter installing the cabinets properly? He needs to perform the following activities:

Place a level on the floor to make sure the floor is level.

Find the high spot on the floor to establish that as the starting point for making the base cabinets level.

Clearly mark the stud locations as a reference for anchoring the base and upper cabinets. The cabinets should be screwed with three-inch screws through the fastening rails.

Check that the cabinets are plumb and align with one another.

You, as the supervisor, must now discuss with the carpenter what thickness issues may arise with the finish floor. If the finish floor that is going to be installed later is, say, half an inch or more in thickness, the carpenter needs to know now. If you do not relate this information, things like the dishwasher clearance could become an issue later.

*Are the cabinets going to be made at the job site? I like this technique because I have full control over the destiny of the cabinets. We can control the quality of the cabinet wood. We can take advantage of every inch of space that is available. I have the carpenter install all full-extension drawer glides, heavy-duty concealed hinges, and full-extension bottom shelves in all base cabinets. These are the kinds of features you do not find in most factorymade cabinets, and they cost a whole lot less to build.

*Did the carpenter install the decking on the countertops? If so, did he make sure that the decking was flat and level. This means there should be no humps or dips in the decking. This will be important when the countertops are installed later.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule floor, wall, and other tiled areas. Coordinate schedule with contractor.

This could be a 1 to 2 week operation.

Schedule countertops installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. Usually a 1 to 2 day operation depending upon the material that was selected.

Schedule vanity tops installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. Usually a 1 day operation depending upon the material that was selected.

Schedule shower and tub surround installations. Coordinate schedule with contractor.

Schedule fireplace face and hearth installations. This is a 2 day operation.

*ORDERING ALERT*

If you are responsible for ordering the tile, do it now. The tile contractor could probably help you with the tile take-off and order. This is a 2 to 3 day order if it is not a special order

INTERIOR DOORS-subcategory of finish carpentry

GLOSSARY OF INTERIOR DOOR TERMS

Active door: This is half of a double-door unit. The active door is the main operating door where a non-active door is the other half that is stationary and only opens by a flush bolt installed.

Alder knotty wood: This is a hard wood, light brown in color with slight pink undertones used for a rustic Southwest look with knots in the wood.

T-astragal: These are used on double-door units, a piece of wood attached to the edge of the passive door, with the active door closing against it. This application allows for locking and/or weather stripping of the pair of doors.

Bifold: This is a door unit configuration, commonly used as a closet door, having four doors, two folding back to one side and two folding back to the other side, doors hang from a track mounted in the top of the jamb, which are supplied and installed, if needed.

Bore: This is a hole cut into the stile of the door allowing door hardware or multi-point to be installed.

Brick molding: This is a decorative wood molding used on the outside of an exterior door unit, typically as a stop or to hide brick, siding, stucco, or concrete.

Bullnose: This is a door unit installation technique where plaster or stucco is rounded in to the edge of the doorjamb.

Bypass: This is a door unit configuration, commonly used as a closet door, having two doors that slide left and right on a track mounted in the top of the jamb.

Casing: This is decorative molding used around the doorjamb to hide the seam or space where the door unit is installed in the wall system, concrete, or coral rock.

Clavos nails: Spanish for nails, clavos are small, decorative, wrought iron head nails, attached to doors or a speak easy, that comes in many deigns, shapes, and sizes.

Distressing: This is a texturing technique used to cause the wood to look used or old.

Door-bottom seal: Also called a “door sweep,” this is a metal track holding a rubber bulb, which applies to the bottom of the door, to insulate between the door and the threshold.

Door rough opening: This is a term used to designate the size of a door unit as measured from inside jamb to opposite inside jamb.

Door slab: This is a term used to indicate a door only—no jamb, casing, brick molding, T-astragal, hinges, threshold, or door hardware.

Door unit: This is a pre-hung door with a jamb and hinges, typically bored for door hardware. Exterior door units also include casing, brick molding, T-astragal, and weather strips.

Flushbolts: These are used on double-door units. Flushbolts are installed on the edge of the non-active door at the top (bolting into the jamb header) and at the bottom (bolting into the floor or into the threshold), causing the non-active door to become stationary so the active door can be locked.

Mortise locks: This is a term often applied to a type of door hardware. It is so named because the door hardware mounts into a pocket cut into the edge of the door stile called a “mortise.”

Glue chip glass: This is a textured glass having slightly obscuring properties with an etched pattern resembling ferns or snowflakes. Organic glue is applied to the glass; as it dries, it grows in a crystalline pattern, etching the glass in the process.

Heavy distressing: This is a texture on a door having several dents, small gouges, and grain tearing to simulate the look of old doors.

Jamb: This is the wood frame to which a door is hinged to create a door unit, allowing the door to be installed into a wall.

Light distressing: This is a texture having a few small dents and dings, typically fewer at the top of the door and more at the bottom, to simulate a used product.

Door glass lites: This is a glass “window” in a door. Many doors have more than one lite.

Mortise and tenon joinery: This is a traditional method of joinery. A tenon on one piece of wood is inserted and glued into a mortise pocket on the other piece of wood.

Medium distressing: This is a texture having several dents and dings, to simulate a slightly abused product.

Multi-point locking system: This is a lock system generally used for impact hurricane doors that can be 3-points or 5-point system that is controlled by the door levers to lock in all point into the door system for added security against intruders or pressure winds produced by hurricanes or storms.

Panel doors: This is a door part, distinguished from the rest of the door by being raised above or sunk below the general level, which is held in place by the door frame (stiles and rails) in a tongue and groove.

Pocket door: This is a door that slides into a pocket opening into a wall. This allows the door to be open and hidden within the wall without taking up any floor space.

Pre-hung doors: This is a door slab that has already been mounted into a doorjamb, having hinges applied and possibly already bored for door hardware, ready for a door installer to install into the door opening. Doors that are shipped in the Unites States, Canada, and overseas are shipped knockdown pre-drilled for easier and less costly shipping.

Pre-finished: These are wood door products that are factory stained and sealed to the customers liking of colors.

Speak easy: This is a very small door installed into the upper part of a door, used in lieu of a peephole, usually with a wrought iron design or clavos with or without glass inside.

Rail: This is the horizontal piece of a door, one at the top and one at the bottom, possibly more depending on the door style. The stiles and rails form the frame of the door slab.

Rough opening: This is the opening in the wall made by standard framing materials, sized to accommodate a pre-hung unit. A rough opening is typically two inches taller and two inches wider than the nominal door size; however, this can vary. Please ask your builder, architect or designer to provide you with appropriate rough opening dimensions.

Sidelite: This is normally a stationary glass or wood unit beside the door unit, often with one on each side, but can be just one unit, depending on the door design.

Stiles: These are the outermost vertical members of a door. The stiles and rails form the frame of the door slab.

Threshold: This is a component of an exterior door unit. This piece mounts at the floor or marble to help prevent leakage or air escape. This is also called a “door sill.” They usually come in aluminum or wood.

Tongue and groove: This is a common way of joining wood pieces together. The tongue runs the length of the edge of a plank, fitting into a corresponding groove in an adjoining piece of wood.

Transom: This is normally a stationary glass or wood unit mounted above the door unit. (This could be an integral part of a door unit or a separate installation.)

Supervision checklist for interior door installation:

*Have all the door units been delivered as ordered? Sometimes a supplier might send a wrong door or a damaged door. You need to inspect the door units as quickly as possible in order to give yourself enough time to replace them.

*Is the carpenter installing the doors in the right openings? The best thing to do is for you and the carpenter to walk the house together, marking the rough opening jambs with a permanent marker. This will indicate the size of the door, the swing of the door, and if the door is hollow or solid core. This technique will minimize a lot of wasted conversation.

Figure 433-Illustration of right-hand swinging door

*Do you know the difference between a left-hand and a right-hand door? I have seen so many explanations of this that even I got confused. Try this on for size. Stand in the rough opening with your back up against the side that the hinges will be on. Now select one of your arms to represent the swing of the door. If you used your left arm to replicate the door, then it is a left hand door and vice versa—Period. End of discussion.

*Is the carpenter installing the door units properly? The carpenter needs to check the rough opening with a level first to see if both sides of the rough opening align with each other on the face of the walls. At this point, he can take a block of wood and a sledge hammer and bump the bottom plate in order to make an adjustment. This is the one and only time that this type of framing adjustment can be accomplished. He needs to set the door units at the proper height. As before, you, as the supervisor, must let the carpenter know about any issues with thick finish floors in the area of the door that could affect the operation of the door or the gap under the door. The gap at the bottom should be between 1–1.5 inches above the finish floor in order to allow the air in the rooms to be able to circulate if the doors are going to completely seal the room when closed. Maybe there are some possible issues with carpeting that has a high pile. You do not want the door to drag on the carpet. You need to stay on top of your game so the carpenter can stay on top of his. Not dealing with these issues now could cause problems later, at a time when you least need them. When the carpenter sets the door units in place, they must be plumb and level. The reveal (gap between the door and the doorjambs) must be uniform on all three sides.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule wood floors installation if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days

Schedule carpet installation if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 to 2 days

Schedule any other type of flooring installation if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor

Schedule glass blocks installation if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 5 days

STAIR ASSEMBLY-subcategory of finish carpentry

GLOSSARY OF FINISH STAIR TERMS

Balcony: This is a term for stairs that have an open-concept upper floor or landing. For a straight flight of stairs, the balcony may be long enough to require multiple newels to support the length of railing. In modern homes, it is common to have hardwood floors on the first floor and carpet on the second. The homeowner should consider using hardwood nosing in place of carpet. Should the carpet be subsequently replaced with hardwood, the balcony balustrade may have to be removed to add the nosing.

Baluster: This is a term for the vertical posts that hold up the handrail. These are also known as “spindles.” Treads often require two or three balusters.

Balustrade: This is a railing consisting of a series of balusters resting on a base and supporting a continuous handrail.

Banister (railing/handrail): the angled member for handholding, as distinguished from the vertical balusters, which hold it up for stairs that are open on one side. There is often a railing on both sides, sometimes only on one side or not at all. On wide staircases, there is sometimes also one in the middle, or even more. The term “banister” is sometimes used to mean just the handrail, or sometimes the handrail and the balusters, or sometimes just the balusters.

Core rail: Wood handrails often have a metal core to provide extra strength and stiffness, especially when the rail has to curve against the grain of the wood. The archaic term for the metal core is “core rail.”

Easings: Wall handrails are mounted directly onto the wall with wall brackets. At the bottom of the stairs, such railings flare horizontally, which is called a “starting easing.” At the top of the stairs, the horizontal portion of the railing is called an “over-easing.”

Fillet: This is a decorative filler piece on the floor between balusters on a balcony railing.

Flight: This is a flight of an uninterrupted series of steps.

Floating stairs: This is a flight of stairs is said to be “floating” if there is nothing underneath. The risers are typically missing as well to emphasize the open effect. There may be only one stringer or the stringers otherwise minimized. Where building codes allow, there may not even be handrails.

Gooseneck: This is the vertical handrail that joins a sloped handrail to a higher handrail on the balcony or landing.

Landing (platform): A landing is the area of a floor near the top or bottom step of a stair. An intermediate landing is a small platform that is built as part of the stair between main floor levels and is typically used to allow stairs to change directions or to allow the user to rest. A half landing is where a 180-degree change in direction is made, and a quarter landing is where a 90-degree change in direction is made (on an intermediate landing). As intermediate landings consume floor space, they can be expensive to build. However, changing the direction of the stairs allows stairs to fit where they would not otherwise or provides privacy to the upper level, as visitors downstairs cannot simply look up the stairs to the upper level due to the change in direction.

Newel (post): This is the main anchoring post at the start of a stair rail and at the intersection of the rails at landings and balconies. Since it is a structural element, it extends below the floor and subfloor to the bottom of the floor joists and is bolted right to the floor joist. A half newel may be used where a railing ends in the wall. Visually, it looks like half the newel is embedded in the wall. For open landings, a newel may extend below the landing for a decorative newel drop.

Rosette: This is where the handrail ends into the wall and a half newel is not used. It may be trimmed by a rosette. This can also be a block used at the corners of casings.

Spandrel: If there is not another flight of stairs immediately underneath, the triangular space underneath the stairs is called a “spandrel.” It is frequently used as a closet.

Staircase: This term is often reserved for the stairs themselves—the steps, railings, and landings—though often it is used interchangeably with “stairs” and “stairway.” In the UK, however, the term “staircase” denotes what in the US is called “stairway,” but usually includes the casing, the walls, banisters, and underside of the stairs or roof above.

Stairway: This term is often reserved for the entire stairwell and staircase in combination, though often it is used interchangeably with “stairs” and “staircase.”

Stairwell: This is the spatial opening containing the stairway; Turnout: Instead of a complete spiral volute, a turnout is a quarter-turn rounded end to the handrail.

Volute: This is a handrail end element for the bullnose step that curves inward like a spiral. A volute is said to be right- or left-handed, depending on which side of the stairs the handrail is as one faces up the stairs.

Building code stair requirements per IRC 2012 R 311.7 - R 311.7.10.1

Minimum width - 36 inches

Maximum rise – 7 3/4 inches

Minimum tread depth-10 inches

Handrail height- 34 to 38 inches measured vertically above the nosing of the treads

Minimum headroom clearance - 6’ 8” (measured vertically from the plane of tread nosings to ceiling above)

Guardrail height - 36 inches

Balusters are placed so that a sphere 4 inches in diameter cannot pass through

Guardrail required if deck, porch, balcony, landing, etc. more than 30 inches above grade

The triangular openings formed by the riser, tread, and bottom rail of a guard, shall not allow passage of a sphere 6 inches in diameter.

Figure 434-Illustration of stair code requirements

Supervision checklist for staircase installation

*If the carpenter is building a staircase, is he doing it properly? If he is installing oak treads over the rough framing that the framing carpenter built, he needs to make sure that the treads are going to be level in both directions. He can shim the treads as necessary. If you supervised the framing carpenter correctly, there should not have to be too much adjustment anyway.

*Is he securing the treads solidly to the under framing? He should use liquid nails or other good adhesive before installing long finish nails with his nail gun.

*Has he anchored the newel posts correctly? The newel post is the primary anchoring member of the balustrade. Toe-nailing the newel posts to the face of the riser is poor craftsmanship. I have seen newel post anchoring brackets and devices. I’m not that impressed with them. One of the right ways is to notch the bottom of the newel post one inch deep times the height of the riser and let it into the rough framing. The one-inch cut will be bearing on the rough tread. The vertical cut will be flush with the face of the rough riser. Install a generous amount of liquid nails to the area before setting the newel post into place. Then the carpenter can drill a few pilot holes just deep enough and large enough where he can fasten the newel post through the face into the rough stair riser with four- to six-inch-long lag screws.

*When the framing carpenter was building the rough stair assembly, did you have him install anchor blocking at the base of the stringers for just this occasion? If you recall, that was in the supervisor’s checklist. Then he could take some matching diameter oak dowel rod and plug the pilot holes. In the future, should it be necessary to remove the newel post, all that needs to be done is remove the dowel plugs and unscrew the lag bolts.

*Are the handrails set at the proper height? The top of the handrail should be set at 34 inches minimum to 38 inches maximum (measured vertically from the nosing of the tread). Observe the stair diagram.

*Are the balusters installed at the proper spacing? A 4 inch diameter sphere cannot pass through and space. See previous page for all the requirements.

*Did the carpenter clean up his debris? This should be required before any payments.

FINISH TRIM MATERIAL-subcategory of finish carpentry

GLOSSARY OF MOULDING TERMS

Apron: This is the horizontal moulding applied immediately below the nosing of the window stool.

Astragal: This is an interior moulding attached to one of a pair of doors or sash to prevent swing through, also a small moulding or bead encircling a column or post below the capital of cap.

Backband: This is a narrow rabbited moulding applied to the outside edges of an interior window and door casing to create a larger moulding appearance (useful when using a thicker chair rail or baseboard).

Baseboards: Baseboards run along the wall at the floor. Baseboards should be chosen to work in harmony with your casings to finish and tie the room together. Baseboards are usually thinner than the casing.

Base shoe: Base shoes are primarily used to trim flooring materials and are often used in combination with traditional baseboards to conceal variations between the flooring and the base. However, this versatile profile works great to solve numerous trimming needs.

Beaded ceiling: This is a popular profile used often as wainscot paneling. Combined with a chair rail or capmould and a baseboard, a beaded ceiling makes a distinctive wainscot package.

Brickmoulds: Brickmoulds are used as exterior casing around doors. Two inches is the most common size; however, it is available in 1.5- and 2.25-inch sizes.

Built-up trim: This is a technique of combining two or more moulding profiles to create a new or custom look. Also called “stacking,”

Bullnose: This is a term used to describe the eased edges of trim and stops. A single bullnose stop has one eased edge and a square edge back. A double bullnose stop has two eased edges.

Cased opening: This is an interior opening without a door that is finished with jambs and trim.

Casework: These are all the parts that constitute a finished case or cabinet. This is inclusive of the doors, drawers, and shelves.

Casing: Casings define the overall character of a room and are often the most visible part of the trim. Casings are used primarily to cover the gap between drywall and the door or window frame. Casings are generally thicker than the base mouldings.

Ceiling trim: Ceiling trims can be designed from panel moulds or chair rails run around the perimeter of the sidewalls in many different layouts.

Chair rail: Chair rails have a decorative and practical function. Applied to a wall anywhere from 24 to 48 inches from the floor, they are a beautiful accent to the room, while also protecting the wall from scuffs and dents from the backs of chairs.

Closet rod: This is a full round wood rod installed in clothes closets to hang clothes on.

Coffered ceiling: This usually refers to a grid of beams with crown molding. They can be any size and design, limited only by your imagination. Coffered ceilings add a refining touch to a room that cannot be imitated.

Coped joint: This is a joint at the meeting of moulding members.

Corner moulding: This is a profile is used to protect outside edges from damage and abrasion. Outside corners come in a variety of sizes and detail.

Cove moulding: This profile has a wide range of uses; it is most commonly used to soften the transition on inside corners. This is also known as a “concave profile.”

Crown moulding: Crown moulding usually runs along the wall at the ceiling. Crowns come in a wide range of sizes and patterns. Crowns soften the transition from wall to ceiling, while adding a distinctive look and charm to most rooms.

Dado: This is a rectangular groove cut across the grain of the wood member.

Dentil: This is a moulding pattern with a series of closely spaced rectangular blocks and spaces. Dentil is used especially in classic architecture.

Finish boards: Finish boards come in either s4s (surfaced four sides) or s3s (surfaced three sides) and are used for a multitude of purposes, including shelving, window liner, bases, casing, etc.

Full rounds: Full rounds are used for numerous purposes and projects. Some of the more common uses are closet poles, curtain rods, and towel rods.

Half rounds: A cross-section of this profile looks like a half circle and is used primarily as decorative trim.

It works well as a trim piece for wallpaper or to add a decorative pattern to flat panels. This profile can also be used to put a rounded edge on 3/4-inch shelving.

Lattice: Lattice strips are thin pieces of flat moulding that come in several widths and are used for hiding seams, as edge trim, etc.

Miter joint: This is the joining of two members at an angle that bisects the angle of junction.

MDF (medium-density fiberboard): This is a panel manufactured from fibers that is used in casework for built-ins, closet shelving, and cupboards.

Panel moulds: used to frame wall paneling and add a decorative element to this type of application. Panel moulds also add accent to walls.

Pilaster: This is a rectangular, circular, or semi-circular member used as a simulated column in entrances, doorways, mantles, etc., usually contains a base, shaft, and capital.

Plinth block: This is a base block used at the intersection of the baseboard and vertical trim of a doorway or cased opening.

Quarter rounds: Quarter rounds come in several sizes and serve a variety of functions but are most often used to finish inside corners.

Return: This is a term used to indicate the method of carrying a moulding detail from the front of the molding back to the wall. Generally, a 45-degree cut is made to the front of the long molding and an opposite 45-degree cut on a small piece to carry the detail to the wall.

Scribing: This is drawing a line parallel with an existing surface and fitting millwork to an irregular surface.

Screen mould: This is a very versatile profile. A screen mold fits a wide variety of needs and uses. Traditionally used to hold mesh screening into wood screens, it also works well as edge trim on 3/4-inch shelving or wood trim for wallpaper, etc.

Shoe: This is a small moulding applied at the base of various members of a structure, usually baseboard.

Stile or rails: These are the vertical outside pieces of a sash or door.

Stops: Stops are used in door and window applications to “stop” the door or window. Stops come in a wide range of widths in single bullnose (one eased edge) or double bullnose (two eased edges).

Toe kick: This is a recessed space at the base of a kitchen or bath cabinet.

Wainscoting: This is the trimwork installed in the area below a chair rail. Numerous options are available, including raised panel, shadow box, and beaded ceiling. Combined with a chair rail and baseboard, wainscoting creates a dramatic look to any room.

Window casing: This is the trim that borders the edges of a window frame. Casings define the overall character of the room and are often the most visible part of the trim.

Window stool: This is the flat surface installed below the sash of a window. This is also called a “window sill.” Trim installed under a window stool creates a distinctive look and adds a decorator’s touch.

Fireplace Mantel Construction

Something you have to keep in mind when selecting a fireplace is the law. There are qualifications that must be met when it comes to fireplace mantles, or really anything around a fireplace. This is for the safety of your home and everyone inside it, so be sure not to neglect them.

Clearance

This is the distance required by building and fire codes between stove, smoke pipe, or chimney and combustible materials, such as wood furniture or carpets. Clearances must be observed even if noncombustible plaster or other masonry materials protect the combustible materials, such as wood furniture or carpets.

Figure 435-Minimum mantel vertical clearances

Minimum Mantel Vertical Clearances

There are minimums for clearances of the combustible mantel height above a fireplace. NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) codes for minimum clearances are as follows:

Exposed combustible trim and the edges of sheathing materials, such as wood siding, flooring, and drywall shall be permitted to abut the masonry fireplace sidewalls and hearth extension in accordance with Figure R1001.11, provided such combustible trim or sheathing is a minimum of 12 inches (305 mm) from the inside surface of the nearest firebox lining. Exposed combustible mantels or trim may be placed directly on the masonry fireplace front surrounding the fireplace opening, provided such combustible materials are not placed within 6 inches (152 mm) of a fireplace opening. Combustible material within 12 inches (306 mm) of the fireplace opening shall not project more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) for each 1-inch (25 mm) distance from such an opening.

Supervision checklist for installing trim:

*Is the carpenter installing the lineal trim properly? When I say properly, I’m referring to the joinery in the trim. Are the wood joints meeting neatly? This issue gets compounded if he is installing wide crown moulding around the ceiling.

*Is the carpenter installing any wood that is going to be stained with extra care? Now the carpenter cannot depend on the painter caulking a bad joint and painting over it. Every joint in the wood is going to be seen forever. The carpenter is not allowed to use any wood filler in the joints nor is he allowed to over sand them. These kinds of actions will cause them to telegraph right through the stain, making it very difficult for the painter to cover up (if he can). If you are going to have a lot of stained wood in the house, you better have the best carpenter you can find in your area to do the job.

*Has the carpenter complied with the safety requirements when building the fireplace mantel and side trim as per instructions?

54-INTERIOR PAINTING

The painting is the finish you see the most of. You better make sure you have the best painter that you can afford. Take some time and read through the glossary of painting terms. You will be glad you did.

GLOSSARY OF PAINTING TERMS

Acrylic: This is a synthetic polymer used in high-performance latex or water-based paints. As the paint’s binder, acrylic resins enable the coating to last longer and retain its color.

Acrylic latex paint: This is water-thinned paint that employs acrylic resin as the majority of the binder. Other binders that may be added to reduce cost or add specific properties include styrene, epoxy, and polyvinyl acetate.

Acrylic latex paint (100%): This is water-thinned paint in which only acrylic resin is used as the binder medium. Typically the highest-quality latex paints used for a wide variety of architectural coatings, 100% Acrylic Latexes have superior adhesion, long-term flexibility, breathability, alkali resistance, toughness, and color and sheen retention.

Acrylic resin: These are resins that have established a preeminent position among coating formulators, having shown superiority in such respects as color and gloss retention, alkali and oxidation (chalk) resistance, hardness, adhesive and cohesive strength, and overall film durability. Generically, resins result from the polymerization of derivatives of acrylic acids, including esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylonitrile, and their copolymers. These are also known as acrylate resins.

Adhesion: This is the ability of dry paint to remain on the surface without blistering, flaking, or cracking. Adhesion is probably the single most important property of paint. Wet adhesion, the ability of dry paint to adhere to the surface in spite of wet conditions, is particularly important for exterior house paints.

Airless spraying: This is the process of atomization of paint by forcing it through an orifice at high pressure. The effect is often aided by the vaporization of the solvents, especially if the paint has been previously heated.

Alkyds: These are resins used mostly in trim paints, inside and out, although some medium-duty equipment and marine enamels employ these resins as binders. Most often, alkyd resins are found in vehicles employing aliphatic hydrocarbons (mineral spirits or other refined petroleum distillate) as thinner. Alkyds offer good leveling properties and cure to a relatively durable film, but tend to yellow interior and embrittle with age. Color and gloss exterior is only fair, and alkyds are highly prone to failure exterior on surfaces containing even moderate levels of moisture. Chemically, alkyds are synthetic resins formed by the condensation of polyhydric alcohols with polybasic acids. They may be regarded as complex esters. The most common polyhydric alcohol used is glycerol, and the most common polybasic acid is phthalic anhydride. Modified alkyds are those in which the polybasic acid is substituted in part by a monobasic acid, of which the vegetable oil fatty acids are typical.

Binder: The binder cements the pigment particles into a uniform paint film and also makes the paint adhere to the surface. The nature and amount of binder determine most of the paint’s performance properties, which include washability, toughness, adhesion, and color retention. Acrylic polymers are the binder of choice in producing quality high-performance latex paints.

Bleaching: This is the loss of color, usually caused by exposure to sunlight.

Blistering: This is the formulation of dome-shaped, hollow projections on paint, often caused by heat or moisture. This can also be caused by solvent entrapment in a paint film that has surface-dried before the solvent has completely escaped.

Chalking: This is the formation of a friable powder on the surface of a paint film caused by the disintegration of the binding medium due to disruptive factors during weathering. The chalking of a paint film can be considerably affected by the choice and concentration of the pigment. It can also be affected by the choice of the binding medium.

Color Retention: This is the ability of paint to keep its original color and resist fading.

Consistency: This is the resistance of a paint to flow. Paint with high consistency flows slowly; paint with low consistency flows readily.

Cracking: These are breaks or splits in the paint’s surface.

Durability: This is the degree to which paint withstands the destructive effects of the environment to which it is exposed, especially harsh weather conditions. Durability has two aspects. Its protective properties safeguard the substrate from degradation. Its decorative properties allow the paint to retain its attractive appearance.

Efflorescence: This is an encrustation of soluble salts, commonly white, deposited on the surface of coatings, stone, brick, plaster, or mortar, usually caused by salts or free alkalis leached from mortar or adjacent concrete as moisture moves through it.

Elasticity: This is the ability of paint to expand and contract with the substrate without suffering damage or changes in its appearance. Expansion and contraction are usually caused by temperature fluctuations. Some substrates, such as yellow pine, expand at different rates, depending on the type of their grain. Elasticity is a key to durability. Acrylic binders are noted for their elasticity.

Enamel: This is a topcoat that is characterized by its ability to form a smooth surface, originally associated with a high gloss, but may also include lower degrees of gloss (i.e., flat enamels).

Extender: This is a less expensive ingredient than titanium dioxide that fills out and extends the pigment’s capabilities. Extender cannot be used without pigment. Some common extenders are clays, calcium carbonate, and silica.

Fading: This is a lightening of the paint’s color, usually caused by exposure to light or heat.

Film formation: This is the paint’s ability to form a continuous dry film. This process is the result of the water or solvents evaporating and the coming together of the binder particles. A continuous dry film repels water.

Flaking: This is the detachment of pieces of paint from the substrate, caused by a loss of adhesion and elasticity. This is also known as “scaling.”

Glycol: This is a co-solvent, combined with water in aqueous (latex) systems to form the total thinner. Various glycols perform various functions; however, they are generally valuable as brushing agents and for temperature stability (ethylene glycol is the chief ingredient in anti-freeze). Generically, CH2OHCH2OH is a general term for dihydric alcohols; ethylene glycol is the most simple of the glycols.

Hiding power: This is the ability of paint to hide or obscure a surface, color, or stain over which it has been uniformly applied. Hiding power is provided by the paint’s pigment.

Holidays: This is an application defect whereby small areas are left uncoated (also known as misses, skips, voids, discontinuities, and vacations).

Latex paint: This is a water-thinned paint made with synthetic binders, such as polyvinyl acetate or acrylic resins. In contrast to oil-based paint, latex paint dries fast, flows smoothly, and cleans up easily with water. High-performance latex paints contain 100% acrylic resins.

Leveling: This is the ability of a coating to form a smooth film without brush marks appearing. Higher-quality latex paint has superior leveling ability.

Low-VOC (volatile organic compounds): These are gases emitted by various solids or liquids, many of which have short- and long-term adverse health effects. Solvents in traditional paints often contain high quantities of VOCs. Paints that are low in VOCs improve indoor air quality and reduce urban smog. The beneficial characteristics of such green paints include low odor, clean air formula, and safer technology, as well as excellent durability and a washable finish. Low-VOC paint types include latex (water-based), recycled latex (water-based), acrylic, and milk paint. The labels of paint cans can be checked for the following information: To be considered Low-VOC, the paint should consist of less than 50 grams per liter (g/l) of VOC. To be considered zero-VOC, the paint should consist of less than 5 g/l of VOC. Solid content usually ranges from 25–45%. Higher solid percentages ensure less VOCs.

Mildewcide: This is a chemical agent in quality paint that retards mildew, a common problem in humid climates.

Peeling: This is the detachment of paint from the surface in ribbons or sheets. This is the result of loss of adhesion.

Pigment: This is finely ground powder made of natural or synthetic, inorganic or organic, insoluble dispersed particles that, when dispersed in a liquid vehicle to make paint, may provide, in addition to color, many of the essential properties of the paint—opacity, hardness, durability, and corrosion resistance. The term is used to include extenders, as well as white or color pigments. The distinction between powders that are pigments and those which are dyes is generally considered to be on the basis of solubility. Pigments are insoluble and dispersed in the material; dyes are soluble or in solution when used.

Polymer: This binder is produced from petrochemical feedstocks. The binder’s polymer particles are small in size and carried in water. The binder polymers and water mix is known as “emulsion.”

PVA (polyvinyl acetate): This is a colorless, thermoplastic, water-soluble, resinous high polymer derived from the polymerization of vinyl acetate with a catalyst, used as a latex binder in certain, generally lower quality water-base coatings.

Resin: (1) This is a general term applied to a wide variety of more or less transparent and fusible products, which may be natural or synthetic. They may vary widely in color. Higher-molecular-weight synthetic resins are generally referred to as polymers. (2) A solid, semi-solid, or pseudo-solid organic material that has an indefinite and often high molecular weight, exhibits a tendency to flow when subjected to stress, usually has a softening or melting range, and usually fractures conchoidally. (3) In a broader sense, the term is used to designate any polymer that is a basic material for coatings and plastics.

Silicate: This is any one of a large family of substances chiefly used with titanium dioxide, the primary pigment, as an extender pigment. When used in moderation, these silicates (magnesium silicate, aluminum silicate, etc.) are valuable in helping control gloss, aid brushability, and increase hol-out properties and overall exterior durability.

Spattering: These are droplets of paint that spin or mist off the roller as paint is being applied.

Surfactants: These are additives contracted from surface-active agents, which reduce surface tension and thereby improve wetting (wetting agents), help disperse pigments, inhibit foam, or emulsify. Conventionally, they are classified as to their charge: anionic (negative), cationic (positive), nonionic (no charge), or amphoteric (both positive and negative).

Thinner: Water, the thinner used in latex paints, evaporates as the paint dries, allowing a smooth paint application. Turpentine or spirits are the thinners in oil-based paints.

Vehicle: This is the liquid portion of the paint, in which the pigment is dispersed; it is composed of a binder and a thinner. Together, the thinner and binder form the paint’s vehicle.

VOC (volatile organic compounds): This is any carbon compound that evaporates under standard test conditions. Essentially, all paint solvents except water are VOCs. Federal and state governments are beginning to limit the amount of volatile organics found in paint because of concerns about possible environmental and health effects.

Washability: This is the ease with which washing will remove dirt from the paint’s surface without causing damage.

Wet edge: This is the edge of a wet painted area that remains workable. When painting large surfaces, it is generally necessary to join up to the edge of a paint film that has been left for an appreciable time; when this can be done by blending this edge with free working paint without any lap showing, the film is said to present a wet edge.

Drying Schedule and Curing Time

Drying and curing time are not the same. Drying time refers to the length of time a coating is sensitive to local damage. Curing time refers to the length of time it takes for a paint to reach structural integrity and be ready for service.

The drying schedule on the product data sheet will show how long it takes until the paint is dry to the touch, dry to tack-free, and dry to re-coat. Dry to the touch implies the paint will not collect dust, tack-free implies the paint does not feel sticky and can be handled without damage, and dry to re-coat implies the time needed to dry until the next coat of paint can be applied.

Note that these drying times vary significantly with temperature. This is particularly important in determining when the next coat of paint can be applied. Re-coating before enough time has passed can seriously affect the curing and integrity of the layer being over-coated. Some paints, particularly two-component paints, have a maximum time to re-coat as well. Exceeding this could jeopardize the adherence of the topcoat.

Painting

Once the proper level of surface preparation has been achieved, and the quality of the coating system has been verified, the contractor is ready to paint. To prevent “rust-back” of the cleaned surface, the first coat of paint (primer) should be applied as soon as possible (within a few hours) after blast cleaning. Painting should begin at a practical time to avoid weather changes that could cause significant changes in the surface condition of the steel (i.e., nightfall).

Environmental Conditions

The following steps should be followed to ensure that the paint is applied and allowed to dry and cure under reasonable environmental conditions. Excessive high or low temperatures or the presence of surface moisture, including frost, can have a negative effect on paint films. In addition to the following, some common sense should also be used. For example, painting just before the onset of poor weather is not advisable. The current and expected weather, along with the curing time of the paint being used, should be considered prior to beginning the application process. To verify proper ambient conditions, Steps 1–4 listed below should be followed every four hours.

1. Temperature: The Specification will place limits on the ambient temperature to ensure proper curing. Most Specifications will require the temperature to be between 4°C or 10°C and 38°C (40°F or 50°F and 100°F). Check that this is the case.

2. Relative Humidity: Again, due to of curing requirements, the Specification will limit the maximum permissible relative humidity, which is commonly limited to 85%.

3. Dew Point: The relative humidity determines the dew point. The temperature of the material should be at least 3°C (5°F) higher than the dew point. This “dew point spread” is used to ensure that no moisture is present on the steel prior to paint application.

4. Surface Temperature: The surface temperature of the material should not exceed 52°C (125°F) during the painting process, and again, it should be at least 3°C (5°F) higher than the dew point.

5. Wind: Heavy winds can cause problems. Airborne overspray, for example, may be carried onto adjacent houses, cars, etc. and can also result in premature drying of the paint. If heavy winds are present, it may be best to delay the painting operation or to restrict spray application.

Application

To apply the paint, the contractor may use sprayers, brushes, rollers, or a combination of these. Spraying varies significantly from the other techniques. Listed below are several good practice tips for spray applications.

6. Proper Pot Pressures: The spray pot should have two pressure regulators, one for pot pressure and one for atomization pressure. The pot pressure regulator should be high enough to provide enough material to the spray gun. The atomization pressure regulator should be set just high enough to atomize the material. Too high a setting will result in the paint drying before it hits the surface. Too low a setting will cause the paint to clump and could clog the gun.

7. Proper Spray Gun Technique: The gun should be held perpendicular to the work surface and approximately 45 cm (18 in.) away from the work surface. Angling the gun or holding it too far away could also result in the paint drying before hitting the surface. The spray pattern should overlap the previous pass by approximately 50%, with the stroke length of each pass between 45 and 90 cm (18 and 36 in.). A good sprayer will make a pass of the spray gun by moving his arm and body rather than rotating his wrist to “fan” the gun.

The following section applies to brush, roller, or mitt application.

8. Material Compatibility: The material used in brushes or rollers may not be chemically compatible with the paint being used. Make sure this is not the case by testing a small piece of the material with the paint. In general, natural-bristled brushes are recommended for solvent-based paints, while synthetic bristles work better for water-borne paints. Ensure the nap of the roller is that recommended by the coating manufacturer for the desired finish.

9. Proper Technique: Brushing should be done as neatly as possible to ensure a uniform coating thickness. Rolling should be done in a “W” pattern and finished by rolling in one direction. Avoid rolling the coating out over too large of an area because this can cause thin spots or holidays.

The following section applies to all application methods.

10. Defects: All unsightly runs, drips, or pinholes should be repaired immediately.

11. Wet Film Thickness: Wet film thickness is important for two reasons: (1) It allows you to verify that a consistent thickness of paint is being applied, and (2) it also allows you to predict the resulting dry film thickness. A good painter will periodically check his wet film thickness because it will vary according to the spray pressure, the “load” of paint on the brush or roller, and the orientation of the surface being painted.

12. Dry Film Thickness: It is important to check the dry film thickness after application of each coat, as this is the most direct measure of the contractor’s work. The thickness should be checked at five locations in every 9 m²(100ft²). Take three separate readings at each location. Each reading should not be less than 80% of the specified thickness nor greater than 150% of the specified thickness. The thickness at any location should be reported as the average of the three tests.

As a general rule, a manufacturer’s data sheet will include a range of application thicknesses for its coatings. It is important to monitor for areas that are too thin and too thick. It is not necessarily true that “thicker is better.” Excessively thick application can cause the coating to sag or even never fully cure.

Wood Staining Do’s and Don’ts

DO…

Always prepare the wood with a light sanding and an application of a pre-stain wood conditioner.

Stir the can thoroughly to evenly redistribute any color pigments, which may have settled to the bottom.

Apply a second coat according to label directions to achieve a darker, richer color tone.

DON’T…

Leave hinges, handles, knobs, or pulls on a piece you are staining or finishing. Wood finishing products may also change the color of any metal hardware.

Attempt to obtain a darker color by allowing any unabsorbed stain to dry on top of the wood, as this will later peel off. Stains are formulated to dry in the wood, not on the wood.

Apply a finish before the stain has completely dried. The solvent in the finish will activate the damp stain, allowing your brush or cloth to pull it out of the pores of the wood.

Supervision checklist for interior painting:

*Is the painter taking care to cover all the windows to avoid getting overspray on them? This is a normal part of doing the job. If they did not do this, you better get another crew.

*Is the painter conscious of the environmental conditions, application, and material compatibility as outlined in the 12 previously mentioned issues?

*Does the painter appear to be properly equipped to handle the job? This is one of those businesses where you could throw a couple of paintbrushes in your car and call yourself a painter. A good crew will have a couple of very good paint sprayers, ladders for all types of situations, a variety of high-quality paintbrushes and rollers, and all the paraphernalia that goes along with it.

*Is the painter meticulous at his preparation work? Now we start to separate the men from the boys. Painting is about 70–75% preparation, and the rest is actual painting. This is a very tedious, labor-intensive job. If you get the impression that the painter is blowing through this process without due diligence, then you better take action.

*Has the painter taken care of any runs in the paint or stain? All painters, no matter how skillful will on occasion get some runs in their work. The main thing is to correct them.

*After all his stained work is complete, does he carefully wrap it to make sure no paint gets on it? You would think that they would all do this, but they don’t. It is another telltale sign of the type of crew you have.

*Is the painter skillful in cutting in around trim and ceiling lines? A lot of them are not. On every painting crew, there are one or two men who are very artful about this. I cannot stand to see wall paint on the woodwork or wall paint on the ceilings or vice versa. You should not find either.

*Has the painter cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule wallpaper installation if applicable. Coordinate schedule with wallpaper hanger.

Schedule faux painting contractor if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor.

Schedule glass enclosures installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 to 2 days

*ORDERING ALERT*

If you are responsible for ordering the wallpaper, do it now. Don’t forget to order extra rolls of the same dye lot for any future remodeling or repair work.

55-FLOOR TILE INSTALLATION

GLOSSARY OF TILE TERMS

American Society for Testing & Materials (ASTM): Most ceramic tile manufacturers use a rating system based on or supported by this group. Ratings are typically found on the tile sample or in the product catalog. The most common system rates ceramic tile abrasion resistance or its overall durability. Other ratings may include scratch resistance, moisture absorption, chemical resistance, and breaking strength.

Biocuttura tile: These are ceramic tiles that are fired in a kiln at temperatures of around 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit. These tiles are first fired after the green tile dries and then again after the glaze is applied.

Bisque: This is the larger of a tile’s two layers. The top layer is called the glaze.

Bullnose: This is a ceramic floor tile trim that features a single rounded, finished edge. Bullnose is sometimes used as a substitute for a cove base.

Ceramic: This is a natural product extracted from the earth that is shaped into tiles and then fired in kilns at extremely high temperatures.

CBU (cement backer unit): This provides a supportive and water-resistant layer between the porous substrate and the mortar and tile applied on top of it.

Classes of ceramic tile:

Class 1: No foot traffic. This is suggested for interior wall applications only.

Class 2: Light traffic. This is suggested for interior wall applications and residential bathroom flooring only.

Class 3: Light to moderate traffic. This can be used for residential floor and wall applications, including bathrooms, kitchens, foyers, dining rooms, and family rooms.

Class 4: Moderate to heavy traffic. This is recommended for residential, medium commercial, and light industrial floor and wall applications, including shopping malls, offices, restaurants, and showrooms.

Class 5: Heavy to extra-heavy traffic. This can be installed anywhere. It will hold up in floor and wall applications at airports, supermarkets, and subways.

COF (coefficient of friction): The higher the COF, the more slip resistant the tile is. This is important when selecting a ceramic tile for wet areas, such as a shower or bathroom floor. Other ratings listed by the manufacturer might include scratch resistance, moisture absorption, chemical resistance, and breaking strength.

Corner bullnose: This is a ceramic floor tile trim with two rounded, finished edges. It is used to complete a corner.

Extrusion: This is a process in which clay material is forced through a mould for the desired shape versus pressing the tile.

Field tile: This is the tile that is most prominent across the largest area.

Firing: This is the process of firing the tiles in a kiln at temperatures of around 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit (the fifth step in the process of manufacturing ceramic tile).

Frit: This is a glass derivative that is applied to ceramic tile as part of a glaze liquid, along with colored dyes, by a high-pressure spray or by pouring directly onto the tile.

Glazed glass: This is a term for forming minerals and ceramic stains that are applied to the body or bisque of a ceramic tile in a matte, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish. This offers better stain and moisture resistance than unglazed tile, as well as a hard nonporous, impermeable surface after firing.

Glazing: This is the process of applying a liquid prepared from frit and colored dyes to ceramic tile, either by high-pressure spray or direct pouring (the fourth step in the process of manufacturing ceramic tiles).

Green tiles: These are clay pressed or formed into a tile shape (the third step in the process of manufacturing ceramic tile).

Grout: This is a type of cement used to fill the space between and provide support for ceramic tile. Grout comes in two types—Portland cement-based and epoxy based. Both compounds may have sand added to provide additional strength. Pigment is added to the cement at the job site during the mixing process.

Impervious tiles: These have less than 0.5% moisture absorption, are frost-proof, and can be used outside or on building facades.

Moisture absorption: As the weight or the density of a tile increases, it becomes a stronger tile and absorbs less moisture.

Monocuttura tile: This is a single-fired ceramic tile.

Mosaics: These are intricate patterns of ceramic tile, often created with 2” x 2” tiles or smaller.

Nominal size: This is a reference to an idealized tile size versus its actual size, which is typically about 10% smaller due to shrinkage during the firing process.

Non-vitreous: These are tiles that absorb 7% or more moisture.

Porcelain tile: These are comprised of 50% feldspar and fired at a much higher temperature than standard ceramic tile, resulting in a much harder and more dense product that is resistant to scratches and can withstand temperature extremes (also stain resistant with very low water absorption).

Pressing: This is the process of forming clay into a tile shape, called green tiles (the third and most common step in the process of manufacturing ceramic tile).

Sanded grout: This is grout with sand added to provide additional strength to the tile joint. Recommended for tile joints 1/8 inch and larger.

Sanitary cove base: This is a ceramic floor tile trim with a rounded, finished top like a bullnose, used to cover up the body of the tile.

Semi-vitreous: These are tiles that absorb from 3% to 7% moisture.

Shade variation: This is inherent in all fired ceramic products. Certain tiles will show greater variation within their dye lots. This is typically listed on the back label of each sample with a low, moderate, high, or random rating (low: consistent shade and texture; moderate: average shade and texture variation; high: extreme shade and texture variation; random: severe shade and texture variation).

Substrate: This is the tile foundation. It may include concrete, plywood, and/or drywall.

Thickset (mudset): This is a classic method of tile installation in which a thick layer of mortar is applied to a waterproofed and steel-reinforced substrate. This provides a strong, flat base onto which the tile can be installed. This is a very effective technique, but labor intensive.

Thinset: This is an industry-accepted and more efficient method of tile installation in which tile is adhered directly onto a backer board that is nailed to a plywood or concrete substrate, using a much thinner layer of mortar.

Through-body: These are unglazed tiles that are a solid color all the way through and do not have a top layer of glaze.

Tile density: This is the weight of a tile. As it increases, the amount of moisture that the tile can absorb becomes less.

Unglazed: This is a solid-color tile without a top layer of glaze, often referred to as through-body construction. These are typically more dense and durable than glazed tile, thus more suitable for interior and exterior applications. They have good slip resistance, but require sealing to help prevent staining. They come in various surface treatments and textures.

Un-sanded grout: This is Portland cement–based or epoxy-based grout without sand as an ingredient. This is typically used in joints that are smaller than 1/8 inch.

Vitreous tiles: Referred to as frost resistant, these tiles absorb less that 3% moisture, but cannot be used in exterior areas where freeze-thaw conditions may cause tile cracking.

All cracks and voids need to be repaired prior to the installation of a tiled surface when the tile is being directly bonded to the concrete. Cracks in the slab mean you will get problems later down the road if you do not do anything about it now. There are many “crack suppression” products available on the market.

If the crack is structural (with a height difference from one side of the crack to the other), you should consult a specialist because crack suppression products might not be enough.

Chemically treated cement slabs are unsuitable surfaces to install ceramic tile over (curing compound is sometimes used to slow down water loss as a means of enhancing the curing process). Curing compounds on concrete slabs prevent bonding. To check the slab for the presence of such a coating, drip a few drops of water on its surface. If the water beads, it is highly likely that a coating was applied. It is my opinion that the single most important element in successful tile flooring is the surface preparation. In addition to the issues mentioned above, your number one goal is to make the surface as flat as possible.

Supervision checklist tile floors:

*Has the substrate been thoroughly cleaned?

*Have any cracks in the substrate been addressed and prepped?

*Has the substrate been leveled with a latex underlayment or other suitable technique?

*Has the tile been centered for the room? One of the things that the contractor has to be aware of is how the layout in one room is going to affect the layout in an adjoining room. It is trickier when you are dealing with multiple rooms that blend together. My advice is to give the room with the highest visibility the most attention to the layout.

*Is the right tile being installed? What a mess to find out that the wrong tile was installed. You, as the supervisor, should communicate with the client and let them see the tile and approve it before it is laid.

*Are the joints in the tile straight and uniformly spaced? This is a sign of a good tile man. Snapping chalk lines is one way of keeping them straight. I have seen a lot of crooked joint lines, and you see that mistake forever.

*Is the right colored grout being installed? This goes hand in hand with the issues of the tile.

*Are the grout joints consistent for the type of tile that you are using? The width of the grout joint can vary. When the style of the tile calls dictates a uniform width joint then it should be that way.

*Has the contractor cleaned the tile thoroughly? This is just good workmanship practice. The installer should not be leaving haze or residue left on the tile.

*Is the contractor going to be sealing the tile? This is not normally part of the contractor’s proposal. You will have to pay an additional amount for this service.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

56-WALL TILE INSTALLATION

A fully tiled wall can look beautiful, but that beauty can be spoiled unless a lot of thought has gone into the project you are about to undertake and you have considered wall preparation for tile installation

GLOSSARY OF WALL TILE TERMS

Abrasion: This is the degree to which a floor tile’s surface will withstand foot traffic. There are specific tests determined by ISO to decide which standard or classification a floor tile will receive.

Adhesive: This is used for bonding tile to a surface.

Angolo: This is a decorative corner piece used in floor installations. Often used in conjunction with an fascia to create a “rug” border effect. Some angolos may be used together to create a small Rosone.

Backing: This is a material used as a base over which a finished tile is to be installed.

Balanced Cuts: These are the cuts of tile at the perimeter of an area that will not take full tiles. Also the same sized cuts on each side of a miter.

Base: This is one or more rows of tile installed above the floor. (See “cove base.”)

Battiscopa: This is a rounded top edge used as the last tile in a floor installation that is used as a base around a room. This is similar to a bullnose.

Beating block: This is a wooden block used to embed tiles in a flat plane. Method is called “beating in.”

Bed: This is a layer of mortar or other adhesive that covers the surface to be tiled and onto which tiles are set.

Body: This term refers to structural portion of a ceramic product and to the material or mixture from which it is made.

Brick pattern: The tile is set in a staggered pattern similar to a brick wall. Also know as a running bond. Any shape tile that is square or rectangular may be set with a brick pattern.

Bullnose: This is the rounded top edge used as the last tile in a wall installation that does not extend to the ceiling or up to the cabinet line, or to turn an outside edge.

Buttering: This is the spreading of a bond coat to the back of the ceramic tile immediately before tile is placed Cap: (See “bullnose.”)

Ceramic tile: Ceramic tiles are generally glazed. They can be used for both wall and floor applications.

Chair rail: This is a cap piece with a distinctive architectural shape. Used to cap wainscoting or as a decorative element. This is sometimes known as a “London.”

Coefficient of friction (COF): This is the measurement, either dynamic or static, to determine the different aspects of slippage on a tiled plane. These measurements are set into guidelines by ISO.

Counter rail: This is a V- or L-shaped tile for finishing the exposed edges of countertops.

Cove base: This is a base trim piece that curves concavely to join the floor tile.

Crackle glaze: This is a special glaze featuring fine-line “cracks” for antique effect.

Crazing: This is the cracking that occurs in fired glazed or other critical tensile stresses.

Deco (decorative): These are tiles with designs, pictures, or relief fashioned with artistic creativity. Decorative tiles are generally used as accents in a field of solid color.

Deep-abrasion tests: These tests are standardized in ASTM C-501. They apply to unglazed porcelain tiles only.

Diagonal set: These are tiles set at a 45-degree angle to the wall.

Efflorescence: This is a crystalline deposit appearing on stone surfaces, typically caused by soluble salts carried through or onto the stone by moisture, which has sometimes been found to come from brick, tile, concrete blocks, cement, mortar, concrete, and similar materials in the wall or above.

Embossed: This is a decoration in relief or excised on the wear surface.

Epoxy adhesive: This is a two-part adhesive system employing epoxy resin and epoxy hardener used for bonding ceramic tile to back up material.

Epoxy grout: This is a two-part grout system consisting of epoxy resin and epoxy hardener. It is formulated to have impervious qualities, stain, and chemical resistance, used to fill joints between tiles.

Exterior tiles: These are tiles suitable for outdoor applications because of their frost resistance.

Fascia: This is a decorative piece used in floor installations. This is often used in conjunction with an angolo to create a “rug” border effect.

Field tile: This is the main tile in a tile design.

Formella: This is a square tile of classic style with antique glazed or bas-relief decoration.

Frost-proof: This is a product manufactured for use where freezing and thawing conditions occur.

Frost resistance: This is the ability of certain ceramic tiles to withstand freeze/thaw conditions with minimal effect. Frost resistance of ceramic tile is dependent on the tile’s porosity and water absorption levels. Frost resistance does not guarantee frost-proof.

Insert (inserto): This is a decorative tile that coordinates with a field tile and is the same size. For example, if a field tile is 4” x 4”, an insert that coordinates is also 4” x 4”, but is decorative.

Impervious tiles: These are dust-pressed ceramic tiles with water absorption levels (0.5%) and high mechanical and chemical characteristics. The surface of these tiles may be glazed or unglazed. These are also known as vitrified or porcelain tile.

Jolly: These are trim tiles mitered along one or two edges, used in corner and countertop installations.

These are also called angled tiles.

Lippage: In finished installation, this is the condition where one edge of a tile is higher than an adjacent tile. This may be unavoidable even for tiles that are within the tolerances of dimensional standards, seen especially in very large format tiles.

Listello (listel): This is an Italian word for a border tile used to add interest.

Lugged tile: This is tile produced with tabs on the edges for maintaining even spacing. These are usually wall tiles.

Majolica: These are tiles composed of raw materials that produce a yellow-pink body of relatively highwater absorption level.

Mitered: This is a term to cut an angle to meet on an edge or corner (similar to picture frame moldings or ceiling cove molding).

Moh’s scale-This is a scale used to express the measure of a materials hardness. Talc’s rating on Moh’s is a 1, where a diamond is 10.

Monocottura: These are tiles produced with only one high temperature firing, generally with harder glaze and denser body than wall tiles with moisture absorption below 3 percent.

Mortar: This is the setting material used to bond tiles to a given surface. Different types of mortar are suitable for different backing and conditions.

Mosaic: These are small tiles used to make patterns or pictures on walls or floors. Mosaic tile can be made from ceramic, porcelain, marble, slate, glass, or metal.

Mounted tiles: These are tiles assembled into units or sheets by the manufacturer for easier installation.

Back and edge mounted tiles are bonded to material (mesh, paper, resin, or other) that becomes part of the installation. Face mounted tiles are bonded to a material that is removed prior to grouting.

Out corner: This is a trim piece with two connecting edges bullnosed.

Pencil: This is a thin tile of any length usually between 0.5–2 inches in width.

Porcelain tile: This is an extremely durable tile that is often used commercially. Porcelain tiles can be glazed or unglazed due to their low porosity.

Portland cement: This is a type of hydraulic cement often used in tile installation.

Quarter round (bead): This is a narrow, convexly curved piece designed to create continuity where 90-degree angles occur.

Quarry tile: This is a traditional term for single-extruded, natural clay tiles with a water absorption level not exceeding 6%.

Rectified tile: A rectified tile is first baked in sheets, and then cut to size after coming out of the kiln. This is why it can be calibrated to exact specifications. Rectified tile can be installed with “credit card” joints as small as 1/16 inch. Most other tile is first shaped and then baked afterwards in a kiln, so it often has as much as 1/16 inch or more difference in size between tiles in the same box.

Rosone: This is a square or circle design used as a decorative piece in a floor installation. Rosones are often made of mosaics of stone or glass, sometimes in intricate water-jet patterns.

Running bond: This is tile set in a staggered pattern similar to a brick wall. Also know as a “brick pattern.”

Screeding: This is a term for leveling the mortar bed by dragging a screed across it.

Sealers: This is a clear coating sometimes applied to unglazed tile floor to protect the surface from grease spills or to add luster.

Single-fired tiles: These are glazed tiles produced by the single-firing method in which the raw tile body and glaze undergo a single pass through the kiln at high temperature. These are also known as monocottura.

Stacked set: This is a term for setting a tile in a stacked set just means to center adjacent tiles next to each other without any stagger. Any shape tile that is square or rectangular may be set with a stacked pattern.

Straight set: This is tile set square to the wall.

Subway tile: The shape of a subway tile is rectangular and very flat, set with a tight grout joint, and often comes in sizes such as 3” x 6”, 4” x 8”, etc. Modern subway tiles tend to be beveled on the edge, allowing for a deeper grout joint. Subway tiles can be set in a brick pattern or stacked vertically or horizontally.

Terra-cotta: These are tiles produced with only one high temperature firing, generally with harder glaze and denser body than wall tiles with moisture absorption below 3 percent.

Trim: These are finishing pieces used to cover exposed tile bisque (i.e., bullnose, out corners, step nosing).

Wainscoting: This is the area of a tiled wall that is installed from the floor to the chair rail height, or slightly higher, with a border or cap finishing the installation.

Wall tile: This is tile intended for use on walls. Generally thinner than floor tile. While it can sometimes be used on residential floors and countertops, it is best to consult manufacturer recommendations before installation.

Correct preparation of the actual surface you are going to be tiling is the key to a beautiful tiled wall. Without it, you will end up with an uneven surface and tiles that do not lie flat on the wall. They look out of place, giving a warped effect. Ensuring the wall is as flat as possibly before tiling is without a doubt very tricky, but it can be done, and there are various ways of doing it.

Supervision checklist for wall tile installation:

*Has the surface been prepared for setting the tile?

The main issue is to get the surface flat. This will avoid a visible waviness in the tile.

*Is the right tile being installed? What a mess to find out that the wrong tile was installed. You as the supervisor should communicate with the client and let them see the tile and approve it before it is laid.

*Are the joints in the tile straight and uniformly spaced? This is a sign of a good tile man. Snapping chalk lines is one way of keeping them straight. I have seen a lot of crooked joint lines, and you see that mistake forever.

*Is the right colored grout being installed? This goes hand in hand with the issues of the tile.

*Are the grout joints consistent for the type of tile that you are using? The width of the grout joint can vary. When the style of the tile calls dictates a uniform width joint then it should be that way.

*Has the contractor cleaned the tile thoroughly? This is just good workmanship practice. The installer should not be leaving haze or residue left on the tile.

*Is the contractor going to be sealing the tile? This is not normally part of the contractor’s proposal. You will have to pay an additional amount for this service.

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

57-OTHER TILE INSTALLATION

These could be miscellaneous areas of tile installation such as the fireplace face and/or hearth. It could possibly be constructing an outdoor kitchen or fire pit. Whatever the tile project may be, the fundamentals, as we’ve already covered in floor and wall tile installations, are the same.

The supervision checklist will be the same as those for the wall tile installation.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule finish HVAC installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 to 2 days

Schedule finish plumbing installations. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days

Schedule finish electrical installations. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days Note-Additional time has to be factored for any required inspections.

Schedule previously ordered appliances delivery to have on site for finish plumbing/electrical.

Schedule glass blocks installation.

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order stand-by generator if applicable. Schedule delivery to have on site for finish plumbing/electrical. 1 to 2 weeks for delivery

Order all the faucets. Schedule delivery to have on site for finish plumbing. The faucets may take 1 to 2 weeks to get depending upon selection

Order all applicable plumbing fixtures. Schedule delivery to have on site for finish plumbing. The plumbing fixtures may take 1 to 2 weeks to get depending upon selection

Order water softener if applicable. Schedule delivery to have on site for finish plumbing. This should take 2 to 3 days

Order light fixtures. Schedule delivery to have on site for finish electrical. 1 to 2 weeks

Order glass blocks if applicable

58-COUNTERTOP INSTALLATION

At this point, we are ready to install the countertops. The preparation work can vary a bit depending on which type of countertop you are getting.

GLOSSARY OF COUNTERTOP TERMS

A-frame: An A-shaped framework used to transport countertop slabs on edge in a truck

Accents: A contrast, outline, or highlight added for detail and emphasis

American Colonial: Traditional design elements inspired by the American Colonial period and influenced by English Georgian style

Antiquity glass: Blurred, tempered glass with seeded impressions

Apron-front sink (farmhouse sink): A sink with a large apron in front that sits on a short cabinet

Backsplash: A material that offers a water guard between the countertop and the wall

Beam: A horizontal member supported near the ends, which spans an open space (for example, concrete countertops are beams because although there may be plywood beneath, it is too weak to provide enough support alone.)

Bugholes: Small cavities in concrete that are created by trapped air

Buildup: Strips of material that are sometimes attached to the underside of countertops to raise it flush with the cabinet tops

Bullnosing: The process of adding a finished edge to an unfinished natural or man-made tile (It also protects the edge from chipping and cracking.)

Butcher block: (See “wood countertop.”)

C-clamps: The function is similar to that of the vise grip, C-clamps hold objects in place while sawing or joining. The clamp pads protect the surface and allow for gripping tapered pieces.

Cabinet rasp: A file that has individually shaped teeth used to rough out shapes in wood or metal (They are classified by their shape; flat or half-round.)

Cabinet scraper: A flat, rectangular piece of steel rounded into a hook that is used to remove shavings and bring the finish to a high gloss without damaging the wood below

Cabinetmaker’s screwdriver: A tool which has a wood handle and a blade designed for wood screws (Part of the blade is flattened to handle torque.)

Caesarstone: A man-made stone that is many times harder than natural stone, making it scratch and stain resistant.

Cambria: (See “solid surface.”)

Cantilever: A beam projecting beyond its supports (for example, the area where a countertop overhangs a cabinet by a few inches).

Carpenter’s square: An L-shaped ruler used to mark straight-edged corners for framing cabinets or wooden countertops (It also can be used as an arithmetic guide for more complicated layouts.)

Casting table: A table made for casting concrete slabs

Ceramic tile: A type of countertop made from inexpensive, yet durable, ceramic sections

Concrete countertops: A handcrafted countertop surface pre-cast in moulds and built to the customer’s specifications (It can also be cast in place top of the base kitchen cabinets.)

Cooktop: An appliance comprised of stove burners that fits into countertop

Crosscut saw: A traditional handsaw used to cut across the grain (the width of the material)

Drain board: Depressions in a countertop that allows water to run into the sink

Drop-in sink: A sink that contains a rim that fits over the countertop

Edge return: A thickened countertop edge that gives the appearance of a thicker slab

Engineered stone: A man-made stone composed of quartz particles and has a nonporous surface resistant to scratches (Unlike natural stone, it is easy to maintain though just as expensive.)

Formica stone: A natural, durable nonporous quartz surface that requires little maintenance

Framed construction: A cabinet box that resembles a flat, empty picture frame attached to the front to which doors are attached

Frameless construction: A cabinetry style in which doors are attached directly to the sides of the cabinet box with hidden hinges

Gloss: A way to describe a finish that has a deep shine and smooth texture

Granite: An expensive, elegant, durable countertop material made from igneous rock, which requires a lot of maintenance and constant sealing (Often there are many small specks throughout the stone creating a salt and pepper look.)

Grinder: A tool used for adjusting cuts, cutting angles, and cleaning up sink holes

Grout (slurry): A cement paste used to fill bugholes in countertops

Inset doors/drawers: Doors and drawer fronts recessed to fit level with a cabinet frame when closed

Integral sink: A sink made out of the same material as the countertop to form a continuous surface

Knockout: A rubber material placed in a form where there will be a hole in the countertop

Kwik-korner jig: A special tool able to make 45-degree cuts straight and easily for inside corners of stone countertops

Laminate: A thin material adhered to particleboard substrates (It is often referred to as brand names such as “Formica” or “Nevamar.”)

Marble countertops: A rare and expensive stone surface that requires a lot of maintenance, yet is a luxurious inlay for islands and countertops

Matte: A smooth finish with very little shine

Melamine: Particleboard coated with a plastic material which is used in concrete countertops because of its smoothness

Miter: A seam in a countertop, usually in a corner, where the counter changes direction

Nonporous: A material that will not stain (It is not affected by chemicals, acids, and temperatures; therefore, it is always clean, safe, and resistant to bacteria buildup.)

Nosing: An edge treatment of a countertop (See “Bullnosing.”)

Overlay doors/drawers: Doors and drawer fronts that partially or fully overlap the face frame when closed

Penetrating sealer: A sealer that enters into the concrete surface to increase water resistance

Post-form: A method for making laminate countertops where the laminate is formed around a predetermined substrate

Pulls: A term used to describe any knob or handle attached to finished cabinets or drawers (Pulls come in a large variety of sizes and decorative styles and colors to match personal tastes.)

Putty stick: A material used for repairing and touching up gouges/holes in metal, wood, plastics, ceramics, stone, and concrete

Pyrolave: A countertop material made from enameled lava rock

Quartz: A rock countertop material that, unlike granite, never has to be sealed or polished

RTA (ready to assemble): Cabinets that arrive ready to make in a kit (an economical option for do-it-yourselfers.)

Sealer: A solvent used to protect and enhance the appearance of a countertop surface

Seamstone kit: A store-bought kit that allows one to sand and polish seaming material without scratching the granite surface

Shim: A thin piece of wood used during installation to insure that countertops are level

Soapstone: A naturally dark gray, yet smooth countertop surface made of talc-quarried, metaphoric stone

(It is nonporous and easily maintained.)

Soffit: The area between the top of the wall cabinets and the ceiling

Solid surface (Cambria): A solid, natural stone surface made which offers a non-porous surface that can also integrate kitchen sinks (Often referred to as Corian, a DuPont product, Cambria is a natural stone quartz surface that is non-absorbent, therefore greatly reducing the potential for bacterial growth.)

Stainless steel countertops: Countertops made from a stainless metal, which creates a contemporary and industrial look (These countertops are heat resistant, durable, and easy to clean, but are expensive.)

Stock: Factory made cabinets in standard sizes and shapes, but choices are kept to a minimum (a few common sizes, one or two types of woods, etc.)

Trim tile (field tile): Tiles that are placed in the main or center area of a project (the tiles placed along the edge become the trim tiles.)

Under-mount sink: A sink mounted beneath the countertop

Urethane: A type of staining sealer providing resistance to temperature, weather, and scratches

Veneer: A thin piece of wood attached to particleboard to create the illusion of wood surfaces

Vessel sink: A sink that sits on top or partially recessed into the countertop

Wax: Applied to some countertops as a temporary protectant

Welded wire mesh: A woven mesh of wire used as secondary reinforcement in concrete slabs to control shrinkage cracking

Wet polishing: A method used to polish concrete countertops to eliminate grinding dust

Wood countertops (or butcher block): Countertops that come in a variety of hardwoods, such as maple or oak, and are easily cleaned, resealed, yet can be damage over time

Countertop Site Preparation

The key to successful countertop installation starts with the base cabinets. No matter which type of countertop material you are going to have, the site preparation guidelines are the same. The cabinets must be permanently anchored in place. The cabinets must be level in both directions. Any required decking should be well braced and dead flat. Any sinks, faucets, cooktops, or any other item that requires a cutout or a hole in the top must be on-site and readily available at the time the countertops are being fabricated. Please note that any delay in acquiring the accessories may also delay the installation. The countertop installer will not be responsible for connecting or moving dishwashers, cooktops, or plumbing. Once the locations of any cutouts are established, no changes can be made.

Supervision checklist for countertop installation:

*Are the base cabinets installed as was outlined in finish carpentry?

*Are all the impacted appliances and plumbing fixtures on site for proper hole locations and dimensions?

*Is the countertop material the same as what was selected?

*Is the installation neat?

*Are any seams as unnoticeable as possible?

*Are all the affected appliances and plumbing fixtures going to fit? You would like to know this before the contractor leaves the job.

*Has the contractor cleaned the countertops? This is normal good workmanship.

*Did you get the maintenance instructions from the company?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

59-VANITY TOP INSTALLATION

Supervision checklist for vanity tops:

*Have the holes for the faucets been drilled in the proper location? Do not automatically assume that the faucet is going to be centered on the lav bowl.

*Is the distance between the holes OC the right spread for the ordered faucets? The spread is usually going to four or eight inches. You have to check what faucet was ordered.

*Is the vanity top the right material that was ordered?

*Is there any damage to the vanity tops?

*Have the vanity tops and backsplashes been caulked properly?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payment.

60-TUB SURROUNDS

Tub surrounds can be made of virtually any waterproof material. The supervisor has to look at these surrounds through different eyes.

Supervision checklist for tub surrounds:

*Is the correct substrate installed on the walls?

You can install water resilient drywall over the studs if you’re going to be installing a tub surround made of solid panels (e.g., cultured marble or granite).

If you’re going to be installing tile of any variety, then you’ll always want to install a 1/2-inch-thick concrete board over the studs first. You still need to tape and seal the joints between the sheets. You can apply any material to the concrete board.

If you’re an old-timer, the very best substrate is to install felt-backed metal lath directly over the studs. Then you apply the mudset, which is comprised of Portland cement and torpedo sand. This is the best substrate material because there are no joints, it’s completely watertight, and any material can be applied to it.

*Double-check to make sure you have the right material that was ordered before installation.

*Is there a plumbing access door to be able to get to the plumbing should there be a repair issue? It may be necessary to tear the walls open to get to the plumbing—hopefully not.

*Was the work done in a professional manner?

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

Figure 436-Example of tub surround

61-SHOWER SURROUNDS

Looking at the example picture, it is hard to tell where the access door might be. This should be a consideration.

Supervision checklist for shower surrounds:

*Follow the same substrate guidelines as was outlined in tub surrounds.

*Is the material what the customer ordered? How embarrassing would it be to get all the way done and find out it is the wrong material?

*Is there a plumbing access door that might provide access to the mixing valves, etc. from an adjoining space?

*Is all the faucet hardware installed and working properly prior to covering up with material? This could include things such as body sprayers/jets, handheld shower units, etc. There better not be any leaks after the surround is completed.

*Was the work done in a professional manner?

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? This should be required Figure

.

Figure 437-Example of shower surround

62-FIREPLACE FACE AND HEARTH

There are safety issues that are often overlooked in the finishing of the fireplace. We will provide you with the correct information that is in compliance with IRC codes.

Face-(R1001.11)-Non-combustible material needs to be installed a minimum of 6 inches from the fireplace opening on three sides. If any combustible material is installed within 12 inches of the opening, the material cannot project out more than 1/8 inch for each 1 inch from the opening.

Example: wood trim has been installed 11 inches from the edge of the opening. The maximum outward projection of the wood trim is 1/8 x 11 = 1 3/8 inch

Hearth-(hearth extension)-(R1001.10)-If the fireplace opening is less than 6 square feet, the hearth must extend a minimum of 16 inches in front of and 8 inches beyond each side of the opening.

If the fireplace opening is 6 square feet or more, the hearth must extend a minimum of 20 inches in front of and 12 inches beyond each side of the opening.

The minimum thickness of hearth extensions cannot be less than 2 inches thick per (R1001.9.2)

Mantels-(NFPA- National Fire Protection Association)-The maximum number of inches that a mantel can project outward is directly related to the number of inches from the fireplace opening to the underside of the mantel. Study the following dimensions carefully.

The first number below is the vertical distance in inches from the fireplace opening to underside of mantel.

The second number below is the maximum horizontal distance in inches that the mantel could project.

11/2 - 13/4 - 15/6 - 17/8 - 19/10 - 21/12

You can see from the numbers, that it would be better to have the underside of the mantel at least 21 inches from the fireplace opening. The mantel could project outwards 12 inches. Of course the higher you build the mantel, the more it can project.

The information that was provided is intended to be beneficial to carpenters and tile contractors who will each play a part in the safety aspects of their installations.

By all standards, the photo shows a fireplace that is in compliance with all IRC and NFPA regulations.

Figure 438-Example of fireplace face, hearth and mantel

63-WALLPAPER INSTALLATION

Wallpaper comes in a variety of widths and lengths, and measuring accurately will ensure that your wallpapering project will come off without a hitch. Keep in mind that when wallpapering with paper that contains a repetitive pattern, you will need to order extra in order to ensure that your pattern remains consistent throughout the room. Doing so will provide a professional, finished look to any wallpaper job.

When preparing to wallpaper for the first time, be aware of some basic wallpaper terminology. Terms like double roll, random match, straight match, and drop match are common when looking at and ordering rolls of wallpaper.

GLOSSARY OF WALLPAPER TERMS

Analogous colors: These are also known as related colors, they are those that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel.

Appliqué: This is a cutout design or ornament in fabric or other material that is applied on top of another, larger surface. In wall covering, cutouts applied to plain, textured, or figured backgrounds.

Batik: This is a nondirectional geometric type design with an East Indian influence. The background has a tie-dyed appearance. The word itself refers to a method of dyeing designs on cloth by coating with removable wax the parts not to be dyed.

Bleeding: In printing, this is a spreading of pigment beyond the design outline or the appearance of one color through another.

Block printing: This is the process of producing a pattern on a wall covering by means of wood blocks into which the design is cut. For the most par it has been replaced by silk screening.

Blooming: This is a hazy or foggy appearance due to the incompatibility of son of the compounds in the coating or plastic sheeting.

Bolt: This is a roll of fabric or wall covering of a given length.

Booking: This is a term applying paste onto wall coverings, the procedure of folding pasted surfaces together for easier handling.

Border: This is a narrow strip of wall covering often used just under the ceiling or around a window or door frame.

Butt seam: This is the most common type of wall covering seam in which the edge of two strips of wall covering are tightly butted together without any overlay or spacing between the strips.

Ceiling papers: These are plain, geometric, trellis, or foliage patterns of wallpaper that look good on a ceiling from all directions.

Center of interest: This is the principal focal point in a room. In a wall covering design, this is the dominant motif. It is usually hung at eye level in the central area of the room to establish a starting point for hanging the re of the wall covering.

Chair rail: This is the topmost molding of a dado that is placed on the wall at the height of a chair back. Complementary wall covering patterns are often used above and below a chair rail. A wall covering border is often used as a chair rail.

Coatings: This is a thin protective surface layer, usually of vinyl, that is applied to wall coverings to provide washability and durability.

Crocking: This is coloring that rubs off and causes discoloration.

Collage: This is a technique in which pictorial images or patterns and pieces of colored, textured material are superimposed onto each other.

Color change: This is putting different colors in place of those used on the previous run when manufacturing wall coverings. The pattern does not change.

Color run: This is the amount of the role of a particular design produced of a single color combination. Subsequent runs of that same design and color may be slightly different. (This is why it is important for purchasers to retain the run number in case additional rolls are needed.)

Color wheel: This is a circular arrangement of colors that expresses their relationships according to a particular color theory.

Commercial: This is a product manufactured in quality and width to serve high-traffic areas.

Companion wall coverings: This is a set of wall coverings designed and colored to be used together in the same or adjoining areas.

Complementary colors: These are colors that lie directly opposite each other on the color wheel and are, therefore, as unlike as they can be (examples include red and green or blue and orange).

Contract wall coverings: These are wall coverings produced for commercial use and normally available in 48- or 54-inch widths.

Cool colors: These are blue, green, and violet, or any color to which blue has been added.

Cornice: This is a horizontal molding or combination of moldings that finish the top of a wall.

Correlated: These are wall coverings and fabrics designed to be used together. They are known as correlates or companions.

Cove ceiling: This is a ceiling that is rounded where it meets the wall.

Dado paper: This is wall covering that covers the lower part of the wall, or dado, and ending at the chair rail height.

Double-cut seam: This is a type of seam used in situations where it is necessary to overlap two strips of wall covering and yet avoid a raised ridge. One example would be when a border is being used as a chair rail with coordinated wall coverings above and below the border/wall covering. A straightedge is placed at the center of the overlap and, with a razor knife or blade; a cut is made through both layers. The top cutoff section is removed and then the bottom cutoff portion is removed leaving a tightly butted seam.

Double roll: This means that your wallpaper roll is twice as long as a single roll. Typically, a double roll of wallpaper can cover about 56 square feet, while a single roll covers about 28 square feet.

Drop ceiling: This is a form of decoration in which the ceiling paper is brought down onto the walls of a room and divided from the walls by a border or molding. This gives the illusion of a lower ceiling.

Drop match: This means that designs on the paper are sometimes dissected by the edge. After you hang the first length, you must make sure that your design pattern lines up with the pattern before it as you hand the second length. For example, flowers are common in this type of wallpaper. Half of the flower on the first hung strip of wallpaper must match up with the other half of the flower on the next, and so on. For this type, you will lose some paper in matching, so make sure to order extra.

Embossing: This is a raised effect created by impressing a design into wall covering using either pressure or heat.

Engraving: This is machine priming of wall covering with etched-out rollers to obtain subtle and fine effects.

Etching: This is a process in which a copper shell is slowly revolved in an acid bath.

Euro-roll: (See “metric roll.”)

Flexographic: This is a printing process developed in England around 1900, which uses rubber cylinders that are easily repaired.

Flock: These are wall coverings made by shaking finely chopped fibers over a pattern printed in varnish or other sticky material to give the appearance of velvet or damask.

Focal point: This is an area of a room with major visual interest such as a fireplace.

Grass cloth: This is a hand-made product made by gluing woven native grasses onto a paper backing.

Ground: This is raw stock onto which a coat of pigment has been applied before the top colors are put on in wall covering manufacturing.

Ground coat: This is the coat of pigment applied to raw stock before the top colors are put on in wall covering manufacturing. This is also the background color.

Header strip: This is a strip of wall covering that is allocated to be hung above a door or window.

Hot spots: These are shiny spots on wall covering caused by chemical reaction.

Hue: This is the pure state of any color, or the name by which a color is called.

Incandescent: This is a common form of artificial light in which a filament contained in a vacuum and heated to brightness by an electric current. It can affect the appearance of colors, often giving a yellowish cast.

Intensity: This is the strength of a color.

Job lot: These are discontinued patterns which are often sold at a reduced price.

Lamination: This is the process of building up thin layers of materials and bonding them together as one product under heat and pressure with an adhesive added.

Line: This is merchandise belonging to one group or series offered by a manufacturer. In wall covering, name collections appearing periodically every set or two.

Lineal yard: This is a lengthwise measure of a good.

Lining paper: This is plain material, often paper, usually applied horizontal and used under wall coverings to assure a smoother surface and better adhesion.

Matching: This is hanging strips of wall covering so that the design will be in the correct relation to the preceding strips. The types of match are random, straight, and drop.

Matte finish: This is a dull finish.

Molding: This is an ornamental strip of wood or plaster that protrudes from a ceiling or wall surface.

Monochromatic: This means of one color, sometimes in different light-to-dark values.

Mural: This is a wall decoration with a pictorial design that continues over two or more strips of wall covering and is intended to cover part or most of a wall without repetition. These are also called “scenics.”

Muted colors: These are any colors with brightness that has been lessened or moderated, often by their complementary colors.

Neutral colors: These are beiges, whites, grays, and browns. Colors that coordinate well with most other colors and have been especially popular for the last decade or so.

Normal value: This is the value of any color in its pure, unmixed state.

Off-grades: This is a term for not first quality goods.

Overlapping Seam: This is a method of hanging wall covering.

Peelable: This is a wall covering that can be dry-peeled from the wall leaving only the substrate on the wall. Note important differences between “peelable” and “strippable” wall coverings.

Pick-off: This is a condition in which coating sticks to the shell, which is usually caused by an air bubble in the coating or by tacky color pulling off some of the coating.

Plastic-coated wallpaper: This is wallpaper that features a thick plastic coating.

Plumb bob/line: This is a weighted line used to produce a vertical line to assure that each strip is hung perfectly straight.

Polymer: This is a compound formed by the reaction of simple molecules—polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

Pre-pasted: This is a wall covering that has had adhesive applied to the back of it by the manufacturer. Dipping a strip in water before hanging activates the adhesive.

Pre-trimmed: These are rolls of wall covering from which the selvage has been trimmed at the factory.

Primary colors: These are the three colors, red, blue, and yellow, which cannot be produced by mixing any other pigments together.

Primer: These are special primer paints designed for use under wall coverings, often used in place of sizing materials.

Production run: This is the production of one pattern in one combination of colors from the beginning to end on one machine.

Railroading: This is the horizontal application of a wall covering.

Random match: This means that you will not have to worry about lining up your paper to match an existing pattern. For example, vertical stripes are one type of random-match wallpaper.

Raw stock: This is paper in large reels. Also, the substrates used today, before lamination.

Receding colors: These are cool colors that tend to make surfaces appear farther away or smaller.

Relief: This is making a design prominent by raising it or cutting away the surface or background of the design.

Repeat: This is the distance from the center of one motif or pattern to the center of the next.

Roll change: This is putting a new roll on in place of a roll that has been run.

Room lot: This is a sale unit consisting of enough rolls of a pattern for a given room.

Run: This is the number of times an individual wall covering is made. Colors and other features can be slightly different from run to run.

Screen print: This is a printing process, also called hand-screening, for producing wall coverings involving stretching silk tightly onto frames, with a separate screen used for each color.

Scrubbable: This is any wall covering that can be safely washed with a sponge and detergent while still on the wall.

Seams: This is the area where two wall coverings are joined.

Secondary colors: These result from combining two of the primary colors.

Selvage: This is either edge of a roll of wall covering carrying no design, intended to protect the design.

Shade: This is a color produced by adding black to a pigment.

Shading: This is an effect that can sometimes appear along the seams of no patterned or textured wall coverings due to heavier ink coverage at one edge than the other during printing.

Sidewall: This is the main wall area to be covered with wall covering.

Single roll: This is the standard commercial length of wall covering.

Size: This is a sealer used to prepare the wall before the wall covering is applied.

Stain-resistant wall covering: This is a wall covering on which a coat of plastic or vinyl has been added to make the surface mostly stain-resistant.

Stencil: This is a method of applying a design by brushing ink or paint through a cutout surface.

Stock: These are the different qualities and grades of paper or the man-made materials. This is also the inventory on hand.

Straightedge: This is a six- or seven-foot ruler used by a paperhanger to trim the selvage off of wall covering.

Straight match: This means that the pattern on the wallpaper stops before the edge of the paper. However, it is important to line up patterns so that designs or figures on the wallpaper do not zigzag after hanging.

Strip: This is a length of wall covering, cut to fit the height of the wall.

Strippable: This is a wall covering that can be dry-stripped from the wall leaving a minimum of paste or adhesive residue and without damage to the wall’s surface.

Substrate: This is the backing of a wall covering. It becomes laminated to the design layer.

Surface Printing: This is conventional machine printing in which the raised or routed design on the roller is transferred to the ground.

Swatch: This is a sample cutting of wall covering or fabric.

T-texture: This is the tactile surface quality of wall covering or fabric, perceived through touch.

Tint: This is a color produced when a pigment is mixed with white.

Tonal value: This is the relative strength of color.

Tone: This is a color that has been toned down by adding its complement or gray.

Top colors: These are the colors forming the design against the ground color.

Total weight: This is the combined weight of both backing and coating, measured in ounces per square yard of wall covering.

Two-toned: These are wall coverings that show only two-toned values of one color.

Value: This is the lightness or darkness of a color.

Vinyl: This is a man-made material used in the manufacturing of wall coverings.

Vinyl coating: This is either the liquid vinyl or flexible film applied to a wall covering backing material. It gives a wall covering strength, durability, and scrubbability.

Vinyl laminate: This is the vinyl laminated to either paper or fabric.

Wainscoting: This is wood paneling used on interior walls, especially that which reaches partially up the walls.

Wall covering: is often used below a chair rail as a substitute for wainscoting.

Wall fabric: This is a durable surface on a backing used to cover walls.

Wall preparation: This is the preliminary cleaning of walls to prepare them for wall covering. This can also include patching cracks/holes and applying a primer-sealer.

Wall primer: This is the preparatory coat of primer given to walls before hanging wall coverings.

Warm color: These are red, yellow, or orange, or any color to which yellow has been added.

Washable: This is a wall covering that can be cleaned with a sponge, mild soap, and water.

When measuring a room, measure the length of a wall by the height of where you want your wallpaper to reach. Some people hang wallpaper to the ceiling, while others only hang a third or so up the wall and then top with molding or chair rail. Measure the length by width for each wall, disregarding windows and doors. The extra paper will come in handy for repairs or botched efforts. Having a little wallpaper left over is much better than coming up short.

So if you have a 9’ x 12’ room with 7’ ceilings, and you want to hang paper to the ceiling, multiply 2x12x7=168. For the other two walls, measure 2x9x7=126. Add those two figures together and you will come up with the 294 square feet that you need to cover with wallpaper. Since double rolls cover approximately 56 square feet, estimate that you will need six double rolls of wallpaper to cover your walls.

Do not throw your extra wall covering away! Always save some for any future repairs. Additionally, scraps and wallpaper overage can be used for a variety of crafty projects, such as:

Line a china cabinet or bookcase

Cover switch plates or electrical outlet covers

Cover waste cans, pencil holders, or any type of box

Use to cover picture frames or create a mat for pictures

Cover a tabletop and protect with glass that is cut to fit

Cover books or journals

Use as gift-wrap

Cut out design and decoupage anything—including furniture!

Make creative note cards or nametags for packages

Laminate for decorative placemats

Use as scrapbook supplies

Supervision checklist for wallpaper installation:

You, as the supervisor, will not have a lot of input in this area.

*Is the wallpaper that is being installed the same as what the customer selected?

*Did you order extra rolls to store for any future repair or alteration issues?

*Is the wallpaper being installed in the areas that the customer selected?

*Do the seams butt up close together?

*Does any pattern match up?

*Are electrical outlet and switch plates being wrapped?

*Is the work is being done neatly?

*Did the wallpaper hanger clean up his debris?

64-FAUX FINISHES

This is a specialty area that requires a lot of practice to perfect the skill. Most painting crews will not do faux painting. This is the work for specialized contractors. As the supervisor, you will not have much to do except schedule and keep everybody else out of their way.

GLOSSARY OF FAUX-FINISHING TERMS

Antiquing (aging): This is a technique intended to give the appearance of age or wear.

Borders: Stenciled and hand-painted borders are used to soften the edges of rooms and ceiling lines and add interest to the space.

Brocade stencil finish: A highly decorative stencil is applied in flat sheen paint over a broken color finish in a satin sheen. The stencil is repeated in a pattern, giving the walls the appearance of “brocade” fabric.

Canopy (tented ceiling): This is a term for trompe l’oeil painting on ceilings depicting the inside of a canopy or striped tent.

Color wash (Old World): This finish creates the illusion of an old Tuscan plaster effect. By applying multiple layers, depth and movement, and a hint of drama, can be created.

Combing: This is a technique of pulling a toothed “comb” through wet paint. The comb can be made of a materials such as rubber, metal, leather, plastic, or cardboard.

Crackle: This is a finish in which cracking is intentionally produced, allowing the undercoat to show through the cracks. A rapid drying of topcoat over slow-drying undercoat produces this interesting technique.

Crosshatching: This is a technique of dragging a toothed “comb” through wet paint in both vertical and horizontal directions to achieve a “basket weave” appearance.

Design: This is a sketch drawn to scale on grid paper, representing the final layout of mural composition.

Distressing: This is also a term used to describe a decorative paint finish that gives the appearance of age and wear.

Faux finishes: This is a French word meaning “fake or false.” Technically, wood-graining, marbleizing, or other painted finishes that are replicating a natural material are faux finishes. However, this term has become an umbrella name to describe all painted decorative finishes.

Faux wood grain: This is a technique of creating the illusion of wood using tools and paint.

Fresco: This is an ancient mural technique using wet pigments as paint on un-cured plaster. Faux fresco is a mural technique that gives the appearance of an aged and weathered fresco using contemporary paint products.

Frottage: This is a term that comes from the French word meaning “to rub.” The decorative paint term denotes a technique of applying a wet glaze, then rubbing it with fabric, paper, or other materials to create a texture.

Garland border: This is a traditional painted border that depicts various leaves, fruits, and flowers in a swag design.

Gilding: This is the application of metal in any form (gold or other metallic leaf, metallic foil, metallic paint, metallic powder, etc.).

Glazing: This is the process of applying a tinted, but transparent paint over a base coat to create a softly modulated, watercolor effect. The darkness of the basecoat and the number of layers of glaze applied can create a rich saturated appearance and works well in dark reds, blues, and greens.

Grisaille: This is an architectural trompe l’oeil painting done in monochromatic colors suggesting solid form, perspective, or decorative plasters motifs.

Harlequin diamonds: Harlequin diamonds are painted in a pattern, either subtly contrasting colors or sheens, and can also be applied in a subtractive paint finish, creating a classic and elegant appearance.

Landscape murals: This is a mural that depicts the outside environment, including the sky, the foreground, and distant horizon line between the land or sea and sky.

Marbleizing: This is a faux finish that creates the illusion of marble.

Metallic finishes: These are decorative finishes that use metallic paint in various techniques over other painted finishes. Golds, silvers, and bronzes are used over different colored base coats to achieve the appearance of antique gold, burnished bronze, or shimmering silver.

Murals: A mural is defined as a painted picture on a wall or ceiling.

On-location sample: This is a sample of the finish intended for the walls or ceiling that is painted on a section of the wall in the room so that client can approve the finish before the entire room is treated.

Better accuracy in color selection and texture is achieved when a sample is done on the same walls and over the same base coat that the rest of the finish will be applied onto.

Opaque paint layers: This is a term for any paint finish layer that is made from a pastel base paint with titanium pigment—will soften and possibly lighten the effect of the decorative paint finish. Opaque paint finish layers allow the faux finisher to correct and soften the previous layers.

Opentime: This is a faux finish term used to describe the time available to work a technique before the paint dries. OpentimeTM is also a product used as an additive to any water-based paint to lengthen the drying time. This product is manufactured by Kingfisher Decorative Paints and can be ordered through their website.

Paint sheen: All house paints and glazing liquids have different sheens and can affect the success of certain decorative paint techniques. They will also affect the final look and appearance of the room. Paint sheens vary from flat (a non-reflective, dull finish) to high gloss.

Patina: This is a thin greenish layer that forms on copper or copper alloys, such as bronze, as a result of long exposure to the elements and often valued aesthetically for its color. It gives a surface appearance of something grown beautiful with age or use.

Pigments: This is the material that is mixed into paint bases to create paint colors.

Rag roll: This is a decorative paint technique that involves applying or subtracting color by “rolling” a damp crumpled rag over the wall surface.

Ragging: This is a decorative paint finish that is either applied or subtracted with a crumpled, damp rag.

Reference material: These are pictures from magazines, books, Internet, or personal photos that the artist uses as a guide in color selection, techniques, or mural painting.

Scene painting: These are traditional techniques used in theatrical set design production, involving many of the same skills utilized in mural painting and faux finishes.

Sketch: This is a preliminary drawing of proposed mural painting.

Skyscape murals: This is a mural that depicts mainly a sky.

Sponging: This is a broken color effect produced by either applying color or removing color by pouncing with a natural sponge while paint is still wet.

Stencil: This is a tool used to apply a repeated image or pattern by dabbing paint on a commercial sponge or stippling brush over the negative space cut out of a sheet of Mylar or stiff oak tag.

Stipple: This is a decorative treatment also known as “pouncing.” A glaze or paint is applied to the surface and while it is wet, a stippler is pounced onto the surface, causing the glaze to disperse into tiny dots. Stippling gives a very even film of glaze while removing brush strokes in a wet glaze.

Stone block: This is a trompe l’oeil technique giving the painted surface the appearance of a stone block wall.

Strie: This is a technique used for achieving a subtle mix of fine stripes (or brush strokes) by pulling a dry, stiff bristled brush or rubber comb through wet paint.

Stripes: Stripes are applied over a basecoat or faux-finished surface in a width suited to the scale of the room. Stripes can be applied with a subtractive technique and in a subtly contrasting sheen, creating a soft and rich effect.

Subtractive technique: This is any paint technique that is first applied and then “subtracted” with a sea sponge, rag, plastic bag, or other tool, creating a subtly textured effect.

Texture: These are paint finishes that create various degrees of two-dimensional texture by adding or subtracting gently contrasting color paint in the techniques described above. Two-dimensional texture adds warmth, character, and depth to an interior.

Transparent paint layers: This is any paint finish layer that is made from a neutral base or glazing liquid— will be semi-transparent and will darken the finish with each additional layer. The basecoat color will be tinted by the transparent paint or glazing liquid.

Trompe l’oeil: This is a French expression meaning, “To deceive the eye.” This is a painting technique in which an illusion of depth and reality is created by emphasizing highlights and shadows. In art, trompe l’oeil is defined as a “still life deception,” a painting able to make the viewer believe that an object actually exists in three-dimensional space, in relief. It also means illusion, a deceptive appearance, eyewash, or camouflage—in short, “Fool the eye!”

Venetian plaster: This involves the application of pigmented limestone and marble dust to create the look and feel of authentic stone.

Supervision checklist for faux painting:

You, as the supervisor, will not have a lot to do except to make sure you schedule the faux painters far in advance of the actual installation date. Find out at what point they prefer to come into the home.

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65-WOOD FLOOR INSTALLATION

Hardwood floors are an asset to your property, and are a way to increase the value of it, too. Taking the proper steps to preparing for its installation increases the value of its long-term benefits of strength, beauty, and legendary longevity.

GLOSSARY OF WOOD FLOOR TERMS

Above grade: This refers to flooring installed above ground level, with a minimum of 18 inches of well-ventilated space available.

Abrasion: This refers to the act of wearing away at a hardwood floor finish, thereby damaging the wood

Acclimation: This refers to the hardwood’s adjustment to the environment it is in, in terms of moisture and humidity.

Acrylic-impregnated flooring: This refers to flooring that has had liquid acrylic (and stain) injected into and throughout the surface of the flooring to add more durability.

Acrylic-urethane: This is a clear wood finish known for its ease of use, fast drying times, and low odor.

Aluminum oxide: This is an amphoteric oxide of aluminum, commonly used to finish flooring because of its strength. Second in hardness to diamond, it serves as a hard protective coating for many hardwoods and bamboo.

Antique flooring: This uses older wood recycled from buildings to manufacture the flooring or is distressed either by hand or machine to create an antique look.

Baby threshold: This refers to a type of molding used in areas where expansion is needed, such as by sliding glass doors and to transition to carpet.

Baseboard: This refers to the molding installed at the base of a wall designed to cover a portion of the wall and floor. It is typically seen as quarter round, though other styles are available.

Base shoe: This refers to a type of molding designed to attach to base molding to cover any expansion space.

Bastard sawn: (See “rift sawn.”)

Below-grade: This refers to flooring installed in below-ground areas, such as the basement of a home. Solid hardwood cannot be installed below-grade, whereas engineered hardwood can be installed below-grade.

Beveled edge: This refers to a type of edge available in hardwood flooring. With a distinct and deep Vshaped groove, the beveled edge hardwood is commonly used in informal settings. It is also used where subflooring imperfections exist, as it helps to conceal them as well as slight differences in plank thicknesses.

Bi-level reducer: This is a type of molding used to transition from a hardwood floor to a carpeted room.

Blind-nailing: This refers to the process of forcing nails into the grooves of tongue-and-groove flooring planks. The nail is put in at a 45-degree angle and made flush by using an electric flooring hammer because most types of wood flooring, including bamboo, are too hard to be nailed together by hand.

Border: This refers to a design technique when installing a hardwood floor that includes a pattern around the outside of the hardwood flooring. These borders can be simple or complex, and even premade.

Buckle: This refers to warped and weakened hardwood as a result of conditions such as excessive moisture.

Bullnose: This refers to a type of trim installed on a wall.

Burl: This refers to a swirl or twist of the grain of the wood that generally happens close to a knot, but does not contain a knot.

Butt joint: This refers to a type of joint made by forcing two ends together. Though it is the simplest type of joint to make, it is also considered the weakest because there is no support other than glue to hold the joint together.

Ceramic finish: This refers to a more advanced finishing technology using ceramics to increase abrasion resistance of the hardwood.

Chatter marks: This refers to patterned markings on the floor caused by the use of a drum sander.

Conversion-varnish sealers: This refers to a type of sealer that is acid curing and resistant to stain and spotting.

Cross-ply construction: This refers to engineered hardwood planks stacked on top of each other, in alternating directions, creating dimensionally stable flooring less affected by moisture and changes in humidity.

Crowning: This refers to a type of warping where the center is higher than the sides.

Cupping: This refers to warping where the sides are higher than the center.

Cutting method: This usually refers to how the solid hardwood veneer for an engineered floor is cut. There are three cutting methods: dry solid-sawn, rotary-peeled, and sliced-peel.

Cure: This is the action of allowing the finish to completely dry and reach its fullest hardness potential. Different finishes will cure at different rates.

Dimensional stability: This is the ability of the hardwood to retain its dimensions throughout its lifetime, avoiding warping, swelling, and contracting in response to moisture and changes in temperature and humidity.

WOOD VENEER SAWING METHODS

Distressed hardwood flooring: This refers to the intentional scratching, scraping, and/or gouging of a flooring surface to create an antique look. This is accomplished either through hand scraping or by machine. Floors that are distressed by hand will be unique—no two floors will be alike. Floors distressed by machine will likely have a repetition of pattern, which may take away from the natural look of the floor.

Drum sander: This is a type of sander used to smooth the surface of hardwood before finishing, known to leave chatter marks.

Dry solid-sawn: This is a cutting method for the real hardwood veneer that is glued on the top of engineered hardwood flooring. It involves letting the wood dry out slowly with a low humidity level to keep moisture from inside the wood cells intact, reducing the risk of cupping. It is the most expensive type of veneer for engineered flooring. It produces a veneer that resembles solid hardwood, generally costs more than other cutting methods, and involves letting the wood dry out slowly with a low humidity level to keep moisture from inside the wood cells intact, reducing the risk of cupping. It is the most expensive type of engineered flooring, but looks and acts more like a solid.

Eased edge: This refers to a type of edge available in hardwood flooring that is slightly shallower than a beveled edge and slightly rounded versus V-shaped

Edge gaps: This is the distance to the wall, which has to be observed when laying hardwood flooring. The so-called elasticity joint ensures that the floor can contract or extract when climatic changes occur. The distance to the wall should be minimum 8 mm, which should also be observed when heating pipes, door frames, pillars, etc. are involved.

Figure 439-Glueless locking engineered hardwood

Edge type: This refers to the edge of the sides of the strips or planks. Square edge has squared edges. Beveled, eased, micro beveled, and micron beveled edges have a V-shaped groove that helps to hide imperfections in the subfloor as well as slight differences in plank thicknesses.

Engineered hardwood: This is wood made of a thin layer of solid hardwood glued or laminated onto a core board such as plywood or high-density fiberboard to make the planks of flooring. Due to its construction, engineered hardwood is more dimensionally stable than solid hardwood and can be installed below-grade and over a concrete subfloor.

Environmentally friendliness: This refers to the factors about hardwood—or any other product—that make it easy on the environment.

Exotic species: This refers to the species of wood found outside of North America. These are typically more expensive due to their more limited availability.

Expansion: These are changes in dimension due to swelling and contracting of the flooring as a result of moisture.

Expansion gap: This is the area of the perimeter left to account for expansion.

Expansion spacing: This is the amount of space left at the baseboard to allow for expansion.

Face-nail: This refers to a nailing technique that secures flooring to the subflooring by using nails perpendicular to the surface of the floor.

Finish: This refers to the wax-based or urethane coating over hardwood flooring.

Flat-sawn: This refers to wood cut in long planks where the rings run parallel to the board. This is also referred to as plain-sawn.

Floating floor: This is a type of installation that does not require the flooring to be attached to the subfloor.

Flush reducer: This is used to level the height between a wood floor and another floor surface to transition from room to room.

Flush stair nose: This allows a smooth transition between the stair edge and the riser.

French bleed: These are stained edges of hardwood floor planks.

Gloss level: This refers to the reflection from the finish. Standard gloss levels are satin or matte, semi-gloss, and high gloss.

Figure 440-French-bleed edge hardwood floor

Gloss meter: This is a device used to measure the gloss level of a floor’s finish.

Glueless click-lock: This refers to a very easy do-it-yourself installation of engineered hardwood flooring. No glue is required to install the floor because everything “clicks” and “locks” into place.

Grade: This refers to the appearance of wood used to create the flooring, usually based on the number of visible knots and mineral streaks.

Grain: This refers to the alignment of the fibers in the wood, which designates the pattern seen on the flooring.

Hand-scraped hardwood: Historically, floors were hand scraped on site to make the floors flat. Today’s hand scraping is usually done at the factory to give the floor an antique or vintage look. A truly hand-scraped floor will be unique—no two hand scraped floors will look the same.

Figure 441-Hand-scraped hardwood floor

Hand-sculpted hardwood: This is similar to hand-scraped hardwood, but a less distressed result.

Heartwood: This is the older, nonliving central wood of a tree or woody plant. Its cells usually contain tannins or other substances that make it darker and harder than the younger, surrounding sapwood. Heartwood is mechanically strong, resistant to decay, and less easily penetrated by wood-preservative chemicals than sapwood.

Herringbone: This is hardwood installed parquet style to create a herringbone pattern.

High-density fiberboard (HDF): This is a type of core board used to make engineered hardwood. It provides more dimensional stability than plywood. It is made by compressing fibers of wood chips with an adhesive or binder at a high temperature.

Humidity: This is the amount of water vapor in the air.

Hygrometer: This is a device used to measure relative humidity.

Inflammability classification: This refers to the likelihood that the flooring will not burn.

Inlay: This is a technique involving laying multiple pieces down to create a pattern inside the hardwood. This could be a border or a mosaic inlay.

Installation Methods: This refers to the methods used to install hardwood flooring, including nail down, glue down, staple down, and floating.

Figure 442-Herringbone parquet hardwood floor

Janka hardness: This refers to the strength of the hardwood material based on a scale, which determines the amount of force it takes to drive a 0.444-inch steel ball into a plank of wood 0.222 inches in diameter.

Knot: This is the dark marking where the branch jointed the tree trunk.

Lacquer: This is a varnish that dries by solvent evaporation.

Medallion: This is a design or image meant to be inlaid into a hardwood floor.

Micro bevel edge: This refers to a type of edge available in hardwood flooring that is similar to a beveled edge, but has a shallower V-shaped groove than both the beveled edge and the eased edge. It is well suited for helping to hide minor irregularities in the subfloor, such as uneven plank heights.

Figure 443-Hardwood with micro bevel edge

Micron bevel edge: This refers to a type of edge available in hardwood flooring that is similar to a micro beveled edge, but with a shallower V-shaped groove. It can be difficult to distinguish from a micro beveled edge.

Mineral streak: This is mineral matter left in wood by sap, usually from injury during growth.

Mixed media: This is wood flooring that also includes other elements, such as slate or stone.

Moisture barrier: (See “vapor barrier.”

Moisture content: This is the amount of moisture in wood. Wood is hygroscopic, meaning it gains or loses moisture until it is in equilibrium with the humidity and temperature of the air. This is why it is important for wood flooring to acclimate before it is installed.

Moisture-cured urethane: This is a finish that requires moisture in the air before it can cure.

Moldings: There are a number of different types of moldings (aka trim and transition pieces) that are installed to give a flooring project a finished look.

Nail-down: This is an installation method requiring nails to attach the wood flooring to the subfloor.

Natural Stain: This is a clear finish that does not color the wood, but instead allows for the natural look of the wood to show.

Oil-modified urethane: This is the most common finish for wood flooring, available in various gloss levels.

Oil-treated finish: This is an oil-based finish for hardwood flooring.

On grade: This refers to the ground level of a building, as it is at the same level as the surrounding ground.

One-sided reducer: This has one sloped side and one flush side and is used to transition from hardwood to other flooring types.

OSB: This is an acronym used to describe oriented strand board, a type of subflooring material.

Overlap reducer: This is used to transition between hardwood and carpet.

Overlap stair nose: This functions as the finishing transition for the edge of a stair on a floating floor system.

Oxalic acid: This is a poisonous strong acid that occurs in various plants as oxalates and is used especially as a bleaching or cleaning agent and in making dyes. This is one of the strongest organic acids. Other chemical or common names include dibasic acid, ethanedioic acid, and acid of sugar.

Parquet floor: This is a floor that is installed in a manner that creates a geometric pattern, such as herringbone.

Particleboard: This is a building material manufactured from with wood fragments, such as chips or shavings, mechanically pressed into a sheet, and bonded together with resin.

Paste wax: This is used to finish floors before the arrival of lacquers and varnishes. Since it never dries to a hard finish, it does not provide great damage protection, but can be used as polish to keep floors shiny and reduce the appearance of scratches. It will make the surface more slippery and may help prevent further scratches, as objects can slide across the surface.

Penetrating oil sealers: These oil-based sealers are spread across the floor, allowing them to penetrate the surface, offering a stain and a finish to protect it. Excess is removed with a sponge or cloth. They are usually comprised of Tung or linseed oil.

Penetrating sealers: This is the same as penetrating oil sealers, just without the use of oil.

Penetrating seal–treated finish: This is a finish that has been treated with a sealer, applied by penetration into the floor.

Photosensitivity: This refers to the likelihood a wood floor’s color will change as it is exposed to light.

Pin knot: This is a knot no larger than half an inch in diameter.

Plain-sawn: This is making a series of parallel cuts into a log. This is known as the easiest way to make wood planks. This is also referred to as flat-sawn.

Plank flooring: These are boards that are three inches wide or more.

Figure 444-Parquet hardwood floor

Plies: These are thin sheets of wood bonded together with adhesive to form plywood

Plugs: These are dowels designed to mimic the Colonial “plugged” look.

Plywood: This is a wooden material made by pressing together plies or thin sheets of wood.

Polyurethane: This is a type of finish for hardwood that does not require waxing.

Quarter round: This is a type of trim used for vertical walls and the floor.

Quarter-sawn: The log used to create wood floor planks is first cut into quarters and then cut into boards using parallel cuts.

Random length: Some flooring is sold as random length, meaning that the boards are not all the same length. The shortest length and longest length are noted, and all other planks in the box are different lengths that fall between those two numbers. For example, a manufacturer may describe their flooring as random length at 12–48 inches.

Random width: Some flooring is sold as random width, meaning the boards are not all the same width. Typically, each box of random-width flooring is comprised of boards of three or more different widths. This creates a more traditional looking floor. Historically, floors were laid with random width boards so as not to waste any of the wood from the log. This vintage look is easily re-created today with random-width boards.

Reclaimed wood: This is wood that is salvaged from an old building or structure or from a lake/river and refinished for use in another project.

Reducer: This is used to join wood floors to other flooring surfaces.

Refinish: This refers to the practice of sanding down a wood floor and finishing it again, to reduce the appearance of damage, wear, and tear. A solid wood floor can be sanded and refinished many times. However, an engineered wood floor can only be sanded and refinished if the veneer is 2mm or thicker.

Repairs: This is replacing sections of hardwood with new material to avoid having to sand and refinish the entire floor.

Resistance to staining: This allows an insight as to how the wood flooring will resist staining when subjected to a number of potential staining agents.

Rift-sawn: This is a method of cutting a log into boards that ensures each board has the same relation to the log, providing the same grain pattern. This is the most stable lumber. This is also referred to as bastard sawn.

Rotary-peel cut: This refers to a cutting method used to create a solid hardwood veneer for the top layer of an engineered hardwood floor. It involves boiling the log for a certain amount of time at a certain temperature to prepare the wood. After the wood has been prepared, it is scraped from the log with a blade, working from the outside in, and then pressed flat. It typically has a plywood-like grain and can have issues with cupping and warping to try to revert to its original shape.

Sapwood: This refers to the wood near the outside of a tree. This is usually softer and lighter in color than heartwood.

Scratch resistance: This provides insight into how the laminate flooring will behave when scratched. This is a very important quality criterion, which is derived from scratching the flooring with a diamond-tipped instrument.

Screen and recoat: This is the practice of adding another topcoat of polyurethane to improve appearance of the floor, after abrading it slightly (using a mesh screen) so that the finish adheres better.

Shellac: This is a resin substance secreted by female lac bugs. Used to form a cocoon, the resin comes from India and Thailand. Processed as dry flakes, it can be added to denatured alcohol to create a liquid. This liquid is then used as a food glaze or floor finish. It is a natural option that is highly resistant to stain and odor. It is a high-gloss finish.

Shoe molding: This is a type of molding that is humidity resistant and ideal for high-traffic areas in a home.

Site finished: This is the opposite of pre-finished. Unfinished hardwood is installed and then finished on site.

Sliced-peel cut: This refers to a cutting method used to create a solid hardwood veneer for the top layer of an engineered hardwood floor. It involves boiling the log for a certain amount of time at a certain temperature to prepare the wood. After the wood has been prepared, it is sliced from the end and then pressed to create a veneer.

Small knot: This is a knot in the wood that is not over half an inch in diameter.

Solid hardwood: This is one piece made from lumber, unlike engineered hardwoods, which use other materials to form the planks.

Solvent-based urethane: This uses an oil chemical base rather than water in the floor finish.

Sound knot: This is a knot with an exposed section that appears elongated, as a result of a cut parallel to its long axis.

Figure 445-Solid hardwood flooring

Species: This refers to the type of wood, or the kind of tree it was harvested from. Many species are available, such as oak, pine, cherry, and hazelnut.

Spline: This is also known as “slip tongues.” These are used to reverse or change the direction when installing tongue-and-groove hardwood flooring.

Square edge: These are the edges of the floorboards that are flush together to decrease the appearance of lines between boards. This creates a uniform and smooth surface and gives the room a contemporary, formal feel.

Square nose: This is trim used along the walls of floating floors.

Stain: This is the discoloration of flooring other than its natural color.

Stair nose molding: This is used for transition when placing plank or strip on stairs, landings, or stepdowns.

Strip flooring: These are thinner boards of wood, smaller than planks (2.25 inches wide).

Surface-sealed finish: This is a finish that also serves to seal the wood to protect it, applied directly to the surface without penetration.

T-molding: This refers to a molding piece that finishes the space between two areas of wood.

Thickness: This refers to how thick the planks of hardwood flooring are.

Thin-profile solid: This is a thin piece of solid wood.

Threshold: (See “baby threshold.”)

Tongue and groove: This refers to the profile construction milled to the panels’ sides, allowing the panels to be pushed together. The connection of tongue and groove is responsible for stable floor construction and protects the floor from moisture.

Transitions: These are moldings used to transition from hardwood to another flooring type.

Trims: (See “Moldings.”)

Tung oil: This is a type of oil used to finish wood. It is extracted from the seeds of the Tung tree.

Underlayment: This is the layer of material that is laid loosely between the subfloor and the main flooring. It serves one or more of the following functions: vapor barrier, padding, sound barrier, and/or insulation. Examples of underlayment include foam, rosin paper/felt, cork, plastic sheathing, or Quiet Walk.

Unfinished wood floor: This is flooring that has not been pre-finished at the factory, meaning it must be finished on-site after installation.

Universal edge: This is a transition used to join hardwood to carpet.

Urethane: This is a chemical solvent used to seal and finish wood floors.

UV-cured: The process by which the wood is cured with UV (ultraviolet) light rather than heat.

Vapor barrier: This is a type of underlayment that protects the flooring from moisture coming from the subfloor (e.g., a concrete subfloor).

Varnish: This is a finish containing oils with a slow curing time that can be decreased by heat.

Veneer: This is a thin layer of real, solid hardwood glued to the top of a core board to create an engineered wood floor. Veneers can vary in thickness from 0.6 to 6mm. Veneer thickness dictates how many times an engineered wood floor can be sanded and refinished. If the veneer thickness is less than 2mm, then the floor cannot be sanded or refinished at all.

Warping: (See “buckle.”)

Water-based urethane: This is a solvent containing water in the formula.

Wear layer: (See “veneer.”)

Whitewash: This is a cost-effective finish option, but a type of paint that takes a long time to cure.

Wire brushed: This is a way to distress wood flooring by machine for an antique look.

Wood movement: This is the expansion and contraction of wood due to moisture content, which must be accounted for during installation.

Solid wood flooring should be delivered to the job site and allowed to acclimate to the conditions in which it will be installed or near occupancy levels. Temperature and humidity should be monitored. Delivery should take place after major projects have been completed and thoroughly dry, such as drywall and masonry work. Doors and windows must be in. Testing of wood subfloors should be performed, and moisture levels should not exceed 12–14%.

Figure 446-Brushed finish hardwood floor

It is vital for the grading to be directed away from the home to prevent unnecessary moisture problems. Basements and crawl spaces need proper ventilation. Six-mil polyethylene moisture barriers must be used as a proper vapor retarder in any crawl spaces or where the soil line lies underneath.

Acclimation with engineered hardwoods is essential. Always follow individual manufacturer specifications that are available on their respective websites or contained within the cartons of flooring. Some of the manufactures just want you to open the ends of the boxes and nothing more.

Pulling planks from cartons days or weeks prior to installation can cause installation problems. Why? Moisture from the environment can actually swell the material ever so slightly (depending on the relative humidity), creating problems with the fit of some engineered hardwoods that are milled with precision. Conversely, in extremely dry environments, shrinkage may occur. Click-type floating floors are very susceptible to these potential problems.

One further note about engineered wood flooring: The manufacturers are very specific about how the floor should be laid. Do not think for a moment that they will not void the warranty. A lesson many learn the hard way.

Supervision checklist for wood floor installation:

*Has the contractor spread the boxes of flooring material around the installation area in order to acclimatize the flooring material? Follow the directions on the box.

*Has the contractor checked the moisture level in the subfloor?

*Has the contractor thoroughly cleaned the subfloor?

*Has the contractor floated the subfloor with a latex underlayment or other suitable compound to make the floor flat?

*Has the contractor installed the material according to the manufacturer’s instructions? This is extremely important. If you do not catch this in time, you could wind up being another casualty of another voided warranty. I guarantee you that the contractor will disavow any knowledge of his actions.

*Did you receive the warranty and maintenance instructions from the supplier?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

If you need advice, contact me at mastersguidetohomebuilding.com.

66-CARPET INSTALLATION

GLOSSARY OF CARPET TERMS

CRI (Carpet and Rug Institute) has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed decisions possible.

Antimicrobial-This is a chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mould, and mildew.

Antistatic-This is the ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.

Attached cushion-This is a cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the backside of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness, and padding.

Average pile yarn weight-This is the mass per unit area of the pile yarn, including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.

Backing-These are fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet there is the primary backing, which is made from woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles. There is also a secondary backing, which is made from fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability. In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns,” which are interwoven with the face yarn.

Berber-This is a loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon, or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.

Binding-This is a band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen, or decorate the edge.

Broadloom-This is a term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches or 15 feet wide.

Bulked continuous filament (BCF)-These are continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.

Construction-This is the manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.

Cushion (padding)-This is any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. This is also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16 inch and no less than 1/4 inch, with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low-profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8-inch thickness, with 8 pounds of density.

Cut pile-This is a carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.

Cut-loop pile-The cut and loop-pile combines both looped and cut fibers. They provide a variety of surface textures for medium durability. Cut and loop carpets are available in either solid or different colors. The several different layers in this carpet can hide dirt and footprints in formal and informal areas Delaminating-This is the separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.

Density-This refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. Generally, the denser the pile, the better the performance.

Dimensional stability-This is the ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.

Direct glue-down-This is an installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.

Double glue-down-This is an installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor, with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.

Filament-This is a single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.

Finished yarn weight-Yarn weight is the weight in ounces per square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.

Flatweave-The flatweave carpet is created by interlocking warp and weft threads. The types of Oriental flatwoven carpet include soumak, plain weave, and tapestry weave. This type is not well known in the North American region, although it is very popular in the Orient and Japan.

Fluffing-This is the appearance on the carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture— not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”

Frieze-Pronounced “free-zay,” this is a highly twisted cut-pile type of carpet that is suited for high-traffic areas. It has short fibers that will tend to curl in different directions at the surface to hide footprints and vacuum marks.

Fuzzing-This is the hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.

Gauge-This is the distance between two needlepoints expressed in fractions of an inch. This applies to both knitting and tufting.

Hand-This is the tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles—how it feels to the hand.

Heat setting-This is the process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. This is important in cut-pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin, and polyester cut-pile carpets are heat set.

Hooked rug-This is a simple construction of rug that is hand-made by pulling strips of cloth, such as wool or cotton, through the meshes of a very sturdy fabric. This type of rug is generally known as a handicraft.

Indoor/outdoor carpet-This is a term synonymous with outdoor carpet.

Knotted pile-With knotted pile carpets, the structural weft threads will alternate with a supplementary weft that will rise from the surface of the weave at a perpendicular angle.

Level-loop pile-The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface. The level-loop pile is constructed by weaving even loops of yarn into carpet backing at both ends. This type of carpet is durable as well as track resistant, due to the strong loops. Higher loops in the carpet will create a more luxurious look. They are also great because they will prevent dirt from filtering on into the carpet. Loop pile-This is a carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. The loop pile may be woven or tufted. This is also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.

Luster-This is the brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet, or fabrics.

Miter joint-This is a junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.

Needlefelt-This type of carpet is a bit more technologically advanced, as it is produced by electrostatic attraction of individual fibers that form a unique carpet with extremely high durability. You can normally find needlefelt carpet in the contract market, such as in hotels or other places where there is always going to be a lot of traffic.

Pile-This is the visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. This is sometimes called “face” or “nap.”

Pile crush-This is the loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.

Pilling-This is a condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.

Plush-This is luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes this is called “velvet-plush.” Both plush and velvet are lightly twisted and offer a uniform color. They are very soft and offer more level than textures. This type of carpet is ideal for formal areas, due to it is luxurious appearance.

Ply- (1.) This is a single-end component in a plied yarn. (2.) This is the number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn (e.g., two-ply or three-ply).

Power stretcher-This is a carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over a cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.

Resilience-This is the ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.

Saxony-This is a cut-pile carpet texture consisting of tightly twisted cut piles that are heat set straight. They consist of two or more fibers that have been twisted together in a yarn, and they provide a very soft texture for informal as well as formal areas. They will show each and every footprint and even marks from vacuum cleaners.

Seams-This is the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing, or other techniques.

Seam sealing-This is a procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.

Serging-This is a method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.

Shading-This is a change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts, or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.

Sisal-This is a natural plant fiber used in mimicking the woven look of rugs. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.

Soil retardant-This is a chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibits the attachment of soil.

Sprouting-This is a protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. These may be clipped with scissors.

Staple-These are short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn-spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.

Stitches-This is a term based on stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.

Stretch-in-This is an installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip, properly performed with a power stretcher.

Tackless strip-This is a wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation

Textured Saxony-Textured carpet is the best-selling and it works well in informal areas due to the very soft feel. They are tightly twisted and texture heat set for medium durability. They also offer a multicolored look that will hide tracks and footprints.

Tuft bind-This is the force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.

Tufted-This is carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends. This type of carpet is produced on a tufting machine by using either a single-colored or sometimes a non-colored yarn. If non-colored is being used, then the carpet will be dyed or printed with a design as a separate process. Carpets that are tufted can either be cut pile, loop pile, or a combination of both. Machines can produce a lot more meters of carpet than weaving, and they are usually at the lower end of the market.

Twist-This is the winding of the yarn around itself. This should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.

Underlay-This is a carpet cushion under rugs.

Woven-This is a carpet that is produced on a loom that is very similar to woven cloth, being cut pile. There are numerous different colored yarns being used and the whole process is capable of producing very intricate patterns from designs that are predetermined. Generally, woven is the highest quality of carpet available.

Yarn ply-This is the number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.

Preparation for Installing Carpet

The subfloor (flooring where carpet will be laid) should be clean.

The temperature of the room, subfloor, and the carpet itself should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Then the carpet will stretch properly into place.

Fill all holes and cracks in the subfloor before laying carpet. This will help prevent damage to the carpet.

Do not place carpet seams directly over pad seams unless the seams will be running perpendicular.

Good lighting will help hide the seams. Place seams under the primary natural light source when possible.

Seams should be out of main traffic patterns, if possible. Placing seams under furniture will help hide them.

Here are some additional considerations about the carpet laying process:

Ventilating the area where carpet is being installed will help avoid the buildup of any gases emitted from your new carpet (see carpet gases for more information).

The nap of carpet should be aligned in the same direction. Carpet piles (tufts of fiber) laid improperly against the adjoining nap will produce an undesirable carpet appearance. It will also appear as though the two pieces are different colors. All adjacent carpet should be laid with the nap facing in the same direction.

Thoroughly vacuum the old carpet prior to removal.

Proper molding between thresholds of carpet and other types of flooring should be used.

A power stretcher is usually necessary to stretch today’s type of carpets into place. Ask if a power stretcher will be used.

Carpet Allergies and VOCs

Complaints arising about carpet gases and emissions from new carpet installations, which could cause allergies or other health problems, are so far invalid. At the core of the issue is the emission of VOCs (volatile organic compounds). There is a misconception that the actual carpet fibers produce VOCs. These airborne VOCs get trapped at the respective carpet manufacturing facilities and stay in the carpet until installed. A few days after the installation (after the carpet is aired out), the VOCs will release into the air of a home. Although the level of emissions is quite low, they will dissipate in just a few days.

Supervision checklist for carpet installation:

*Has the subfloor been prepped per the above instructions?

*Is the carpet what the customer ordered?

*Are the seams being installed as recommended?

*Is the carpet being installed with the nap facing in the same direction?

*Is the installer using a power stretcher to install the carpet?

*Are you providing ventilation for the VOC off-gassing?

*Did you receive the warranty and maintenance instructions from the supplier?

*Did the installer clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payments.

67-OTHER FLOORING INSTALLATION

I believe that it’s important for you to have some knowledge about other types of flooring and installation techniques. You will see similarities in the preparation of each type of flooring as well as the differences in the characteristics of the material.

Bamboo

Bamboo flooring is installed just like hardwood tongue-and-groove flooring—either glued together or nailed down.

Bamboo flooring typically comes in three-foot or six-foot lengths and with or without the distinctive bamboo “nodes” visible in the grain.

Pre-finished bamboo flooring is usually coated with urethane, but you can also buy unfinished bamboo strips that can be sanded and finished.

Bamboo flooring comes in two color variations—a natural blonde or a darker amber version that is the result of the wood being smoked (or carbonized) during the drying process.

Most bamboo flooring on the market today is imported from China.

Bamboo flooring is comparable in price to premium hardwood flooring.

Whether it is bamboo, laminate, or any other kind of similar flooring, for those thinking of carrying out their own flooring installation, I recommend following the manufacturers/suppliers’ guidelines and instructions. Although very similar from one to the next, there may be some differences due to the way each type of floor is manufactured.

You should let the bamboo floor planks acclimate before actually starting to lay them. This is done by placing them in the room that they will be installed into for several days. The acclimatization process should take place at the temperature that the room is expected to be at normally after the floor has been installed. Therefore, if the room is a permanently air-conditioned one, then the air-conditioning will need to be on for the duration of the acclimatization. This one step will help ensure that your floor will not warp or buckle after it has been installed.

Additionally, all subfloor surfaces should be clean, smooth, and dry, as anything that is not will affect the adhesion of the laminate to the subfloor. Doing this wrong may not become evident for some time— perhaps years, in some cases—so it will pay to get it done right the first time. Cork Floors are available in several formats.

Natural Cork Tile: Tile or parquet is generally available in 12” x 12” or 12” x 24” standard sizes and may be installed in the same manner as traditional vinyl or resilient flooring. In general, the subfloor, whether it is a suspended wood floor or a concrete slab, should meet the same standards as for sheet vinyl installations. The adhesive used should be that which is specified in the manufacturer’s instructions.

Natural Cork Plank: Generally, the cork has been laminated to a central HDF core. This enables the installer to snap the cork flooring panels together without using tools or glue, thus creating a “floating”

floor installation. This method has several advantages:

Can lay this system directly over an old floor

Less subfloor preparation and may be installed below-grade

Quicker installation—less costly and requires less skill

No separate underlayment because of cork’s low-density, sound-absorbing qualities

Ideal for raised access panel flooring systems

Ideal for radiant floor applications

Ideal for soundproof flooring in condos and apartment

As with wood flooring, natural cork plank requires a space around the perimeter of the room to allow for expansion and contraction. The expansion space is then covered by trim or a baseboard. Of all the recent technological innovations in flooring, nothing compares to the latest click-together milling techniques, which enable the installer to interlock the planks. This glue-less technique ensures a very tight connection between planks. So there’s no mess, easier installation, and less time required.

Considerations

Finish: Today, as with other natural floors, the most common finish is factory-applied polyurethane. The latest development in finishes is “anti-scratch,” a more durable coating. If you prefer a paste-wax finish, natural cork can also be purchased unfinished and then finished on site.

Sensitivity to sunlight: Because natural cork contains organic pigments, like wood or fabrics made from natural fibers, it will fade over time. Avoid direct exposure to sunlight. The best solution is to use a UV protective film on your windows.

Sensitivity to temperature and humidity: All wood floor systems expand and contract in response to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. By controlling the environment and maintaining a moderate temperature and relative humidity around 50%, you can minimize the visible effects of the normal contraction and expansion of your floor. Take the cork flooring home and place it inside of the room where you plan to install it. Let the cork flooring sit for at least 48 hours to acclimate to the room; heat and cold will cause it to expand and contract. The cork must acclimate prior to installation.

Installing Cork Flooring

As with any type of flooring, you want to do a test layout. Lay out the tiles loosely through the room to make sure you have enough; this will also give you a better idea of where to start laying your cork floor tiles. Once you have finished with this, carefully pick up your tiles and stack them neatly outside of the room.

To prevent any moisture problems and to have a proper seal, it is suggested that you lay down a primer with a paint roller; it should only take about 45 minutes to dry. You do not want to start laying down your water-base adhesive. Do this in small sections and make sure it has a tacky feel, but not too clumpy. Start from the section you picked out earlier during your test layout. Place it exactly where it should go—once the glue sets, it will not move. Make sure to keep the seams close together. Use another tile or piece of wood and butt them together. Be gentle, this is cork flooring.

Unless you have a perfectly square room, you will be required to cut some pieces. Usually, only one row needs to be cut; if it happens to be at least half or longer, you can make the room look symmetrical by cutting the front and end row evenly. You can use a box cutter and a straightedge to get the perfect cut. After installation, you do not want to move any furniture or walk on the cork flooring for at least 72 hours; after you finish the installation, use a 100-pound roller to evenly secure the tile to the adhesive.

Sealing Cork Flooring

Unless you bought cork flooring that is pre-sealed, you will now need to seal the flooring. Regardless if it is sealed or not, you need to clean the cork flooring. Read the boxes the cork flooring came in to see what the manufacturer recommends for cleaning. If your cork flooring was pre-sealed, your job is done. Remember, do not walk on your cork flooring or place furniture on it for at least 72 hours.

If you do need to seal your cork flooring you should only use what is recommended by the manufacturer; each one has different recommendations on what is best for their specific product type. You can apply it with a paint roller and a paint stick. After 72 hours have passed, you can reattach the baseboards.

Laminate flooring

All laminate flooring needs to acclimatize in the area where it is going to be installed for at least 48 hours. If you don’t, it will expand or contract after installation, and the floor will be a mess. Place the unopened packs of laminate flooring into the middle of the room and leave for a minimum of two days.

The subfloor must be clean and flat before installing laminate flooring on it. If installing laminate flooring over a concrete floor, then it is extremely important that the concrete is sufficiently dry, having a moisture content less than 2.5% (CM method). If under-floor heating is involved, then the moisture content should not exceed 1.5% (CM method).

Installing Laminate Flooring Planks

When installing laminate flooring over a concrete floor, always use a vapor barrier, as recommended by the manufacturer. Leave the recommended overlap at any joints. A vapor barrier is not required when installing laminate flooring on top of a wooden floor.

The minimum specification for underlay is the standard foam underlay. When joints are required, edges should be butted together and not overlapped. It does not matter which way the underlay is laid—either the same way as the planks or at right angles to them. Have a look at more laminate underlay.

When installing laminate flooring, it is better to lay the planks in the direction the light falls, which would be at right angles to the window. This makes the joints less visible. However, in some situations, it is better to lay the planks in the same direction as the longest wall. In the end, it comes down to personal choice.

The correct way of installing laminate flooring is to lay the tongue of the board you are holding into the groove of the board that has already been installed on the floor.

Make sure the first two rows of planks are straight. Place spacers between the planks and the wall to allow for the required expansion gap. This will also even out any discrepancies in the wall, so in some places, the gap may be larger than what is required for the expansion gap. This will be covered by the trim or skirting later.

When cutting the laminate flooring planks, cut the plank “faceup,” if using a hand saw or circular saw. If you are using a jigsaw with a standard blade, then cut the laminate flooring planks “facedown.” This will avoid chipping the laminate surface.

Supervision checklist for other flooring installation:

The very first thing is to become educated about the particulars of the various materials. Whether you wind up installing bamboo, cork, or laminate flooring, some basic fundamentals are the same.

*The subfloor has to be prepared properly per instruction *The material is going to have to acclimatize to the environment for a specified period of time.

*You will have to install the flooring in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If you don’t, then you’ll run the risk of having the warranty voided.

As the supervisor, you should have a working knowledge of all types of flooring applications. This goes back to what we have said before. If you have to depend on a subcontractor to tell you he is doing it right, then you are not really performing the job description of a good supervisor.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule mirrors and misc. glass installations. Coordinate scheduling with contractor. 1 day

Schedule central vacuum finish installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 to 2 days

Schedule garage door opener installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 day

Schedule elevator installation if applicable. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days

Schedule finish hardware installation. Coordinate schedule with finish trim carpenter. 1 day

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order finish hardware. Coordinate with finish trim carpenter for installation. 1 to 2 weeks

68-GLASS BLOCK INSTALLATION

Figure 447-Examples of different glass blocks

Glass blocks present a unique finish for any room. You, as the supervisor, will have to make sure that you have an experienced contractor installing them.

Supervision checklist for glass block installation:

*Are the blocks straight, plumb, and level?

*Are the blocks reinforced properly? All glass block installations are non–load bearing.

*Is the surface area of the block area within the maximum square foot guidelines? Interior panels can be no larger than 85 square feet if framed on at least three sides.
Interior panels can be no larger than 60 square feet if framed on at least two sides.
Exterior panels can be no larger than 50 square feet and have to be framed on four sides.

*Has the proper grout or sealant being used for the application?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

69-HVAC FINISH

Supervision checklist for HVAC finish:

*Have all the ceiling, wall, and floor grills been installed? If so, are they installed straight and with the louvers turned in the right direction? The louvers should be turned so that the air will sweep the outside walls.

*Have all the grills been sealed at the ceiling, walls, and floors in order to eliminate back drafts?

*Have the AC compressors been installed and fully charged with refrigerant?

*Have the correct thermostats been installed?

*Has the range hood been installed per manufacturer’s instructions and per IRC Section M1503? Range hoods shall discharge to the outdoors through a single-wall duct. The duct serving the hood shall have a smooth interior surface, shall be air tight, shall be equipped with a back-draft damper, and shall be independent of all other exhaust systems. Ducts serving range hoods shall not terminate in an attic or crawl space or areas inside the building.

*Does the clothes dryer exhaust system comply with IRC Section M1502? Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building. Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. If the manufacturer’s instructions do not specify a termination location, the exhaust duct shall terminate not less than 3 feet in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts shall have a smooth interior finish and be constructed of metal having a minimum thickness of 28 gauge). The duct shall be 4 inches nominal in diameter.

*Have the systems been energized to ensure proper operation?

*Have the systems been balanced so that there is no more than plus or minus one degree from the thermostat setting in each room?

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the contractor receives his finish draw.

*Did you receive all the owner’s manuals and warranty information?

*Have you demonstrated to the owner the basic operation of the system? Included in this discussion should be an explanation of the primary and secondary discharge lines.

*Have you explained to the owner about the function of the filter and replacements?

*Has the AC contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be a requirement as a condition for payment.

70-PLUMBING FINISH

Supervision checklist for plumbing finish:

*Has the gas line and shutoff valve been hooked up to the standby generator?

*Have all roof flashings been installed around all vent pipes that penetrate through the roof? These can get overlooked. Maybe it hasn’t rained since the vent pipes were installed. Who knows? Stuff happens!

*Is the water supply system pressure between 40 and 80 psi? If it’s less than 40 psi, something is wrong with the water supply system. If it’s higher than 80 psi, a pressure reducing valve may be required.

*Have all the faucets and plumbing fixtures been installed and working?

*Have traps and fixture connections been tested for leaks?

*Is there an access panel or door on any whirlpool tub per IRC Section P2720? Access shall be provided to circulation pumps in accordance with the fixture or pump manufacturer’s installation instructions. Where the manufacturer’s instructions do not specify the location and minimum size of field-fabricated access openings, an opening of not less than12-inches by 12-inches shall be installed for access to the circulation pump. Where pumps are located more than 2 feet from the access opening, an opening of not less than 18 inches by 18 inches shall be installed *Have the dishwasher, water softener, and water heaters been installed and working?

*Does the water supply for the dishwasher have an air gap or integral backflow protector, per IRC Section P2717? An air gap or integral backflow preventer protects the water supply to the dishwasher. The air gap also keeps contamination from the dishwasher out of the water supply system.

*Did you check that the water heaters are working?

*Do the water heaters have temperature, pressure, and relief valves installed and are they terminated properly?

*Have you checked to make sure that all the appliances that have gas are working and that there are no leaks?

*Do all exterior hose-bibs have backflow prevention devices installed?

*Are all water softening and water treatment equipment installed in compliance with the manufacturer’s instructions? The instructions should be readily available for inspection.

*Have you checked to make sure that the hot- and cold-water lines have not been reversed?

*Do all plumbing fixtures except bathtubs and showers, have readily accessible shut-off valves?

*Is the primary discharge line from the AC evaporator coil connected to a wet trap in a bathroom? This is a must.

*Are all the plumbing circuits on the Manabloc control panels labeled?

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be required before the plumber receives his finish plumbing draw.

*Did you receive all the owner’s manuals and warranty information?

*Have you demonstrated to the owner the basic operation of the water heaters, water softener, and appliances?

*Has the plumber contractor cleaned up his debris?

STANDBY GENERATOR-subcategory of plumbing finish and electrical finish

Supervision checklist for standby generator:

*Has the generator been installed where it will be at least 18 inches away from the house wall?

*Is any point of the generator at least 5 feet away from windows, doors, or other openings in the wall?

*Is there at least 4 feet of vertical clearance from the top of the generator to the underside of the roof overhang?

*Is there at least 3 feet of clearance from the ends and front of generator from any shrubs, trees, or other vegetation?

*Has the generator been grounded to a grounding rod with a proper grounding clamp? The installer is required to perform this installation.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule finish entertainment system installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 to 2 days

Schedule security system installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 to 2 days

Schedule contractor punch lists. Coordinate lists and schedule with all applicable contractors. 1 week total elapsed time.

71-ELECTRICAL FINISH

Supervision checklist for finish electrical:

*Has the transfer switch for the standby generator been installed?

*Has the generator been energized and checked for normal working operation?

*Have all the outlets, switches, and light fixtures been installed? Check the exterior and interior.

*Are all the plate covers installed? Make sure they have been installed level. It is aggravating to see crooked wall plates.

*Are bathroom, kitchen, and exterior outlets on GFCI/AFCI as required?

*Do all the light fixtures and ceiling fans operate normally and are all the light bulbs installed?

*Do all the outlets have power?

*Do you know what each switch operates?

*Do the doorbells and chimes function normally?

*Have all smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors been checked for normal operating condition?

*Are all the electrical appliances in normal working condition?

*Are all the circuits energized?

*Are all circuit breakers in the main service panel clearly identified?

*Have any required inspections been completed and approved? This should be a requirement before the electrician receives the final draw.

*Have you received all the warranty information for any of the light fixtures, ceiling fans, or appliances?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris?

72-GLASS ENCLOSURE INSTALLATION

Supervision checklist for glass enclosures:

Most of your work as the supervisor has to do with making sure the framing for the enclosure is correct and that the material for the base is installed level. The glass can be cut to fit the existing conditions. Make sure your customer fully understands any issues with their selection, such as water spots, hinges, and closing hardware. If the glass is special order, give the glass company as much lead time as you can.

*Are the glass panels anchored?

*Are the glass panels making proper fits?

*Does the door swing outward and is it meeting flush against the seals?

*Have you received any warranty and maintenance instructions?

73-MIRRORS AND MISCELLANEOUS GLASS INSTALLATIONS

This is another specialty installation activity you are not going to have a lot of involvement in. The main thing is scheduling. You do not want the installation done until all the flooring materials are completed. Once again, the scheduling issue comes into play. Enough lead time has to be given to the company in order to have your installation on your target date.

*Is all the glass and mirror installed as per proposal?

*Have you received any warranty and maintenance instructions?

74-FINISH HARDWARE INSTALLATION

The builder normally provides an allowance for finish hardware. I do know that it can get expensive in a hurry. Be aware of your budget.

This is not going to be a big issue for the supervisor, except for one thing: Make sure the customers make their selections as soon as possible. It has been my experience that some of the special-order hardware can take up to two months to receive.

When doing a drawer and door count for knobs and pulls, you always want to order a couple extra for each type of hardware.

The trim carpenter is usually the one who installs the finish hardware.

*Has the correct hardware been installed in the correct locations? Waiting until after holes have been drilled in cabinets to find out their wrong is not good timing on the part of the supervisor.

75-CENTRAL VACUUM FINISH

As the supervisor, you will have little involvement on the finish installation. You may need to answer a few questions, if the need arises. The rough-in installation was installed after the plumbing, and most of your supervision concerns were already dealt with.

Supervision checklist for central vacuum system:

*Is the system working properly?

*Are all vacuum pans and outlets energized?

*Is the filter installed?

*Have the owner’s manuals and warranty information been left for the customer?

*Have you demonstrated the basic operation of the system to the owner?

*Has the contractor cleaned up his debris? This should be required as a condition for payment.

76-GARAGE DOOR OPENERS

As the supervisor, you are not going to have any involvement other than to answer questions. When the openers are installed, you will want to make sure that the doors operate smoothly without binding. You should receive two remote controllers for each opener. You should also receive any owner’s manuals and warranty information from the installer.

Supervision checklist for garage door openers:

*Do the openers operate the doors smoothly?

*Have you received the correct number of controllers?

*Have you received any owner’s manuals?

77-ELEVATOR INSTALLATION

Elevators make it possible to enjoy your home for a longer period of time, especially as we start getting up in years. If you have an accident and are in a wheelchair during recovery, you will find this to be a lifesaver.

GLOSSARY OF ELEVATOR TERMS

Arrival gong-This is an audible “gong” noise to notify you when the car arrives.

Arrival light-This is a visual indicator light that notifies you when the car arrives.

Auto lights-The cab lights can be wired to turn on only when the elevator is called, and these will turn off by a timer.

Brass strike-This is the surface within the cab, which is met by the closed gate. The particular finish or color of wall material chosen by the designer could be stainless, brass, or plastic laminate.

Cab-mounted master door operator-This motor-driven device is mounted on the car roof and will open the door at each landing but not the car gate. There would be an operator on each side of the car to operate opposite openings.

Drive type-This is the type of mechanism that moves the elevator (hydraulic, hydraulic and cable, cable, and cable with counterweights).

Finished size-This is the hoistway size after completed finishing (drywall or wall covering).

Gal N-The N-type door lock has four electrical switches within it known as contacts, made by the GAL Corporation in New York. Typically, this lock is used in combination with a retiring cam.

Hoist cables-These are the high-strength, flexible-woven-steel wires that suspend the car with rated load and possibly counterweights.

Hoistway (elevator shaft)-This is the part of the building that houses the elevator.

Individual power door operator-This motor device is at each door on every landing to open that particular door but not the car gate.

Inspection-This takes place by a local elevator inspector to verify that an elevator or dumbwaiter is in compliance with standard codes applicable to that device.

Landing-(See “stop.”)

Magnetic landing system-This is an electromagnetic device that moves with the car along a thin steel tape for the purpose of informing the controller about the car location in the hoistway. It also automatically re-levels the car if it moves up or down from floor level.

Metal flush swing entrance-This is the door through which the passengers gain access to the elevator from the building. Being metal gives the advantage of having the proper fire rating, and the flush fit of the frame to the hoistway inside the wall gives the correct running clearance.

Openings-This is the number of openings in the cab (car).

Over-speed governor-This device actuates the safety by sensing that the car is traveling too fast downward.

Platform-This is the elevator cab floor.

Position indicator (PI)-This is a visual LED indicator showing the position of the car at anytime.

Power gate operator-This is a motor-driven device mounted on the car roof, which opens and closes the car door automatically.

Pressure switch-This electrical/hydraulic device is attached to the control valve to determine when there is low pressure in the oil line and prevent the car from being operated.

Relay controller-A relay is an electromagnetic switch used to control multiple circuits on the elevator. There are many of this type of switch in a typical controller

Retiring cam-This electrical/mechanical device is used to activate the door locks when the elevator is at floor level, and it will retract when the elevator is moving between floors.

Rupture valve-This hydraulic device is attached to the inlet of the jack, and it will limit the speed of the car’s decent if an oil line should break open.

Safety-This is a mechanical device, which will stop and sustain the elevator and its rated load if either of the hoisting cables becomes slack or breaks.

Sheave-This is a heavy-duty pulley that is used with the hoist cables so as to drive the cables by traction or suspend the cables. In either case, the direction of the cable is changed and this device supports the weight of the elevator.

Sill-This is the gate track on the floor of the cab, which serves to guide the gate. It is typically metal and located between the floor of the cab and the threshold of the building door.

Single speed valve-This is an electrical/hydraulic device on a pumping unit that controls the normal flow of oil to and from the jack such that a single car speed occurs up or down.

Stop-This is the landing location where the car stops.

T-rails-These are the stationary steel members of an elevator system that guide the car vertically through the hoistway and resemble a “T” in a cross-section view.

Transom-This is a horizontal crosspiece over a gate that is attached to the ceiling and two adjacent walls of the cab, which serves to hide the upper gate track and complements the strike and return portion of the cab interior. Since gates are normally 80 inches tall and cabs can be seven or eight feet tall, the transom makes up the height difference for the opening.

Travel distance-This is the distance from the lowest landing to highest upper landing.

Travel restrictor-The travel restrictor limits the travel distance in the hoistway and allows the unit to be worked on without endangering the person repairing the unit.

Two-speed valve-This is an electrical/hydraulic device on the pumping unit that controls the normal flow of oil to and from the jack such that a slow speed is used to approach a landing and a fast speed is used between floors.

Supervision checklist for elevator installation:

*Is the elevator that was delivered the one that was selected?

*Does the elevator operate smoothly?

*Do all safety functions operate normally?

*Did you receive the owner’s manual and warranty information?

*Have you demonstrated the basic operation to the owner?

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for final payment.

78-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM FINISH

Now the contractor will install the speakers and any entertainment equipment that was ordered.

As the supervisor, you will not have any involvement in this category. Your issues will involve scheduling the work and answering any questions that may arise. You want to make sure everything is working before the contractor leaves. Have him clean up any of his debris, and make sure you receive any owner’s manuals or warranty information.

79-SECURITY SYSTEM FINISH

Now the contractor will install all the sensing devices, keypads, and other security equipment that were ordered.

As the supervisor, you will not have any involvement in this category. Your issues will involve scheduling the work and answering any questions that may arise. You will want to make sure everything is working before the contractor leaves. Have him clean up any of his debris, and make sure you receive any owner’s manuals or warranty information.

80-CONTRACTOR PUNCH LISTS

This is an important phase of work. It is the period of time when you have all required subcontractors return and take care of any residual uncompleted items. Maybe they need to correct an item. In Chapter 9, you see how long the inspection list is for the walk-through.

Supervision checklist for punch list items:

*Have you gone through the entire home, making separate work lists for the subcontractors? I would use the walk-through list as the basis for this.

*Have you walked the house with each involved contractor to show him all of his items? It is one thing to hand them a list, it is another to show them each item. I like to use blue painter’s tape to highlight where the correction needs to be made, as it is easily spotted. As the pieces of tape start to disappear, you know that the list is shrinking.

*Have all items been completed? Do not be surprised if the customer comes up with some more items to do. That is just part of the game.

*SCHEDULING ALERT*

Schedule house cleaning. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 days

Schedule final yard grade. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 day

Schedule gutters and downspouts installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 days

Schedule final debris removal. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 1 day

Schedule fencing installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days

Schedule sprinkler system. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days

Schedule drainage system installation. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 2 to 3 days

Schedule landscaping. Coordinate schedule with contractor. 3 to 5 days

*ORDERING ALERT*

Order topsoil if applicable for the final yard grading. Coordinate schedule with grading contractor.

81-HOUSE CLEANING

The purpose of this cleaning is to prepare for move in. The customer expects that the home will look and smell brand new when they open the door. There are a number of items that should be on the cleaning crew’s list.

Supervision checklist for house cleaning:

*Clean all windows (inside and out). This is the most difficult of all to do. Some cleaning crews just do not do a good job on windows; some do.

*Clean out all the window and door tracks. Sometimes they clean the glass but forget the tracks.

*Install all the window screens.

*Clean all plumbing fixtures and faucets

*Clean all electrical fixtures.

*Clean all appliances. They need to get any shipping materials out of the inside of them as well.

*Clean all countertops and vanity tops.

*Clean all tub and shower surrounds.

*Clean all mirrors and any other glass installations.

*Clean all wood and tile flooring.

*Vacuum all carpeting.

*Leave all owners’ manuals and other product information found on the kitchen countertop.

82-FINAL YARD GRADE

Finish grading involves a number of issues. This is the last yard grade in preparation for landscaping. It is important that the final grade provides positive site drainage away from the foundation. This is one of the main reasons that you should set the foundation higher rather than lower. This ensures good site drainage. All debris should be removed.

You, as the superintendent, will not be involved; except for making sure that, the grade is sloping correctly and is smooth.

At this point, the remaining phases of work will not require a lot of supervision input, but we’ll list them to make sure that there are not overlooked.

83-GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

Supervision checklist for gutters and downspouts:

*Are they the size and color that the customer ordered?

*Is the installation neat?

*Do the gutters have proper slope?

*Are the gutters and downspouts secured properly?

*Did the contractor install extensions on the ends of the downspouts to direct the water away from the foundation? It is possible that the downspouts are being tied into an underground drainage system.

*Did the contractor clean up his debris? This should be required as a condition for any payment.

84-FINAL DEBRIS REMOVAL

This will be the final debris haul-off for the job. Up to this point, there have been numerous debris pickups.

85-FENCING

A fencing contractor will install the fencing. You will not be involved as the supervisor. The customer may not decide to have the fence installed until after they move in. There should be a copy of the survey available to the contractor in order to make sure that there will not be any encroachments.

86-SPRINKLER SYSTEM

A lawn sprinkler contractor installs the sprinkler system. You will not be involved as the supervisor. It is possible that this activity will be part of the landscaping contract. The customer may not decide to have the sprinkler system installed until after they move in.

As a builder, you never know for sure going into a project what finishing activities, a customer wants to include in the construction contract. Be prepared for anything.

87-DRAINAGE SYSTEM

This system will more than likely be part of an agreement you have with a landscaping subcontractor.

88-LANDSCAPING

This system will more than likely be part of an agreement you have with a landscaping subcontractor.

Can you believe that we reached the end of Chapter 8? I told you it was going to be a long and bumpy ride.

Did you learn how important good supervision is in building a well built home?

Let us put supervision in perspective. To be a good superintendent is to be prepared to get the job done, no matter what the obstacles may be. You cannot afford to let any one subcontractor stand in the way of progress. I’ve had to fire my share of them and so will you.

If your laborer didn’t show up on time to clean out the house, then you as the superintendent may need to grab a broom and sweep out the house yourself. Later, you can hire someone else who can be more responsible.

If you have to install door locks in order to have security in the home, sobe it.

If you think, that all you have to do is drive around and bark out orders, you are in for a rude awakening.

In homebuilding as in life, failure is not an option

We do not want to relax just yet. In the next and final chapter, we will cover some residual issues least of which is a final walk-thru with the builder. At this point, anything discovered should be minor in nature.

All the doors of the major ones should be closed during final installations and contractor punch-lists.

We will refer to Chapter nine as dotting I’s and crossing T’s.

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CHAPTER 9

POST-CONSTRUCTION ISSUES

You have reached the end of a long road. Now it is time to put the final details in order to close out your successful homebuilding operation.

You, as the supervisor, are going to schedule a final walk-through with the customer after the house has been cleaned. This will be a fairly long meeting, and all parties should be ready for such. The main reason for having the walk-through is to make sure that the home is being delivered to the customer in the new condition as contracted.

As the supervisor, it would be in your best interest to review this list and start taking care of any appropriate items well in advance of the walk-through with the customer.

The following is a new home walk-through checklist, which I’m sure you will find to be an invaluable tool.

Supervision checklist for post construction issues:

EXTERIOR

Address numbers are permanently attached, minimum of three inches, contrasting color (if applicable).

The yard is graded properly away from the structure, with no visible standing water.

The job site is clear of all debris.

All windows and doors are tightly sealed.

There is no cracked glass and all screens are installed.

Exterior house finish is matching throughout.

Check all wall veneers for cracks, nicks, and discolorations.

Shrubbery should be planted two to three feet away from the foundation.

No deciduous leaf tree should be planted within 20 feet of the foundation.

Landscaping meets contractual requirements.

The roofing is intact.

Check that the gutters and downspouts are all installed without any damage.

Discharge water is being directed away from the foundation and not allowed to pond at the foundation.

Discuss where the ground-fault interrupter reset for outside outlets is located.

All hose bibs are operating normally.

Garage doors are operating normally, and the correct numbers of controllers are on-site.

The door leading from the attached garage to the living space is a fire-rated door.

All fire separation materials are intact.

Driveway and sidewalks are completed.

Any other flatwork is completed.

INTERIOR

HEATING AND AIR-CONDITIONING

The heating and air-conditioning systems are working normally.

Review the operation of both systems.

AC grills are installed, with louvers turned in the right direction. Air from grills should sweep outside walls.

Electrical disconnects are installed on the service side of the air-handling unit and condenser. Show where the disconnect switches are located.

The system is balanced so there is no more than a plus or minus one-degree difference from room to room.

Thermostats are installed. Demonstrate how to use.

Check the location and number of cold-air returns and make sure they are unobstructed.

No debris has been left in the evaporator coil drain pan.

The primary evaporator coil discharge line is connected to a bathroom lavatory trap.

The secondary evaporator coil backup discharge line is terminated at a visible location on the outside.

Learn the location of any fuel lines (gas, propane, or oil) and understand how to operate any shutoff devices on these lines.

Discuss the type of air filters installed and their locations. If a media filter was installed, where can you get replacement cartridges?

If you had an ultraviolet light installed, where can you get replacement bulbs?

Refrigerant line cover is installed and sealed (if applicable).

Dryer vent is installed and working normally.

Range hood is installed and working normally.

Fireplace is completed and all safety combustible clearances have been adhered to.

Chimneys, vents, and combustion air installations are complete.

Locate the switches for ventilation and circulation fans (normally placed near the thermostat).

Locate supplemental fans and switches in each bathroom and in the kitchen, and ensure they are operating.

Make sure you understand how to achieve proper ventilation in order to avoid condensation problems, which may not be covered under the warranty.

Owner’s manuals and warranty information supplied.

Final HVAC certificate issued (if applicable).

PLUMBING

Location of main water supply shutoff valve is discussed.

Check all fixtures for scratches, chips, or nicks.

Check to make sure that all faucets and plumbing fixtures (toilets etc.) are working normally.

Discuss the location of other shutoff valves throughout the home.

All drain stops are working normally.

Check if hot water is heating up correctly and that each zone works properly.

Check if any hot- and cold-water lines are reversed.

If a PEX water system is installed, demonstrate the operation of the manifold.

Make sure all water circuits are labeled on the manifold.

Check the garbage disposal to make sure it is in normal operating condition.

No leaks in kitchen and bathroom under cabinet traps, etc.

Owner’s manuals and warranty information supplied.

Final plumbing certificate issued (if applicable).

ELECTRICAL

Show the location of the main service panel.

Locate and identify the main electrical shutoff breaker.

Ensure that all circuit breakers are identified on the dead front panel.

All receptacles and switches are working normally. Proper polarity checked.

Understand what all the switches operate.

GFCI receptacles have been tested and are working normally.

All device plates installed straight and tight with the walls.

Light bulbs installed in all fixtures and all in working condition.

Telephone jacks are working.

Cable TV jacks are working.

Network jacks are working.

Doorbell is working.

Demonstrate operation of standby generator (if applicable).

Owner’s manual and warranty information supplied.

Operate all light fixtures, making certain they are attached securely and contain the correct-wattage bulbs.

New homes must be equipped with ground-fault and arc-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI and AFCI). GFCIs protect bathroom and exterior receptacle circuits, while AFCIs protect bedroom receptacle circuits. Ask your builder how to test these devices.

110-volt smoke detectors with battery backup are interconnected at bedrooms, basement, hall, and in normal operating condition.

Carbon monoxide detectors are installed within 10 feet of bedrooms.

Final electrical certificate issued (if required).

INTERIOR FINISHES

Kitchen

Check countertops for scratches, abrasions, and damage.

Make sure the cabinets and appliances are level and properly anchored to the wall or secured to the countertops.

Check all doors and drawers. They should open fully and without binding.

Ensure that cabinet doors are properly aligned.

All of the appliances are working properly and are not damaged.

All the cabinet hardware is installed.

Test the range hood fan and light.

Make sure there are electrical outlets above the counter.

Owner’s manuals and warranty information provided for all appliances and countertops.

Bathrooms

Look for chips, scratches, and nicks in the sinks and toilet as well as the shower enclosure and tub.

Check that the sink and tub stoppers hold water and that the shower strainer is fastened securely.

Make certain the toilet is securely fastened to the floor.

Demonstrate that all faucets are working properly.

Examine sealants around tub and shower enclosures, and at countertop backsplashes.

Make sure there is no damage to the cabinetry and all finish hardware is installed.

Doors

The door between the house and attached garage is solid core

Make sure that all the doors fit well and operate as intended.

Make sure all six sides are painted, including the front, back, top, bottom, and both ends.

Be certain that the locks, including the deadbolts, operate properly without binding and that thresholds are adjusted correctly.

Look for warping or other visible damage.

Hinges should be clean and free of paint.

Check that the exterior doors have been sealed with weather stripping.

Windows

Operate all windows to make sure they are in normal operating condition.

Determine that locks operate properly.

Warranty information has been provided.

Walls and ceilings

Walk the perimeter of each room checking floor and ceiling moldings to be sure they are uniform.

Look for gaps that need caulking, protruding nail heads, and proper finish.

Make sure that the paint appears to be uniform and not splotchy.

There are not any scratches or scuffs in the paint that need touchup or repair.

Look for visible seams in drywall and nail heads that have popped out or other irregularities.

Flooring

Wood floors have been properly installed.

The wood floors have been finished without stains, marks, or other damage.

Wood flooring is flat without waves in the floor.

Proper moldings have been installed around the perimeter of the wood floors.

Tile and vinyl flooring should be clean and free of chips and cracks.

Tile flooring is flat without waves in the floor.

Check for any missing grout.

Make sure that shoe molding has been installed and painted or stained.

Inspect ceramic tiles for surface cracks.

Walk all carpeted areas checking for loose fits at the edges or ripples in the middle.

Examine the seams in carpets and vinyl to ensure they are tight.

Make sure all the nap is running in the same direction at seams.

Examine carpeting for stains or shade variations.

Maintenance and warranty information for all flooring has been provided.

Stairways

The stair risers are consistent.

The stairs are comfortable to walk up and down.

The handrails appear to be well anchored without a lot of lateral movement.

General items

Walk across all floors. You should hear only a minimum of squeaks.

You should notice only a minimum of spring when walking on the floor. Due to the nature of wood, a wood floor system will have a certain amount of unevenness.

Are all other wall coverings intact, without any damage?

Check the fireplace, draft, and damper to make sure they are in normal working condition.

Check the basement to see if there is any evidence of dampness, cracks, or leaks in the foundation.

Review your checklist before you hand it off to the builder.

Ask for the expected dates for the items to be completed.

If everything is in proper order, you can affix your signature and do a sign-off. Make sure to get a copy of the completed checklist before leaving the site.

Certificate of occupancy has been issued (if applicable).

WARRANTIES

In addition to the builder warranties, the builder will provide the customer with a copy of the 10-year home warranty.

BILLS PAID DISCLOSURE

The builder needs to provide the lender with a bills paid affidavit or contractor sworn statement. The objective is to make sure that all vendors have been paid or if not, how much is owed to them and when will they be paid.

30-DAY POST MOVE IN COMPLETION LIST

Thirty days after move in, the customer shall submit a list of items to the builder that may include the following:

Any items from the pre–move in check list not yet completed

Any backordered items that need to be installed, if applicable

Any items that may need correction/completion

THE CUSTOMERS SHALL SIGN AND DATE THIS POST–MOVE IN CHECK LIST.

*** Once these items are completed, no other lists shall be submitted. Any additional items/issues shall be addressed under the warranty clause in the contract. ***

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Did your home turn out looking something like the home shown in the photo below?

Figure 448-Photo of a well-built home

OR

Did it turn out looking something like this?

Figure 449-Photo of a home with a few problems

The last chapter deals with managing a homebuilding operation and mistakes that many homebuilders make. It certainly is not required reading unless you have the interest to do so.

Since the last chapter deals with folks who want to become a builder, or are already in the business, the language gets a little how show we say, “blunt.” If you are not accustomed to hearing straight talk, then I would advise you not to read the last chapter.

Before we depart, let’s take a look to see how Scott and Brenda Chamber’s house is coming along.

Obviously, they are doing a darn good job so far. We will look forward to seeing the completion pictures.

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CHAPTER 10

MANAGING A HOME BUILDING OPERATION

If you do not like raw uncensored construction language, do not read the following chapter. Too bad, some of you need a heavy dose of straight talk. If I can keep just one of you from becoming a casualty, then this would all be worth it.

I saved this chapter for last because most of you will not be going into the homebuilding business but a few of you may. Maybe you already are and wonder why your business is struggling. I think this chapter will provide some insight as to why. When I talk to you folks, I am speaking from experience not theory. I have made many mistakes in my career and still have residual scars to prove it. My experiences make me uniquely qualified to be able to relate to you.

This chapter obviously does not pertain to the many successful homebuilders across the country. This is primarily for the new or struggling builders.

I believe it to be appropriate to discuss the ins and outs of owning a home building operation. It is one thing to know some fundamentals about building a home and quite another to run a successful homebuilding business. Homebuilding, like any other business, is a profit business. You are building homes as the vehicle for making a profit. The moment that you forget that you are in the profit business, is the moment that you are out of business. Of course, it helps if you enjoy what you are doing. It makes profit that much more enjoyable. Profit is what pays your personal bills, sends your children to college, and affords you all the amenities that life has to offer.

Success in the homebuilding business does not come overnight. Believe me; you will pay your dues. You will have many sleepless nights worrying about your jobs. Remember, that the homes that you have under construction are your pathways to profit. They are vulnerable to catastrophic storms, fire, theft, vandalism, and cost over runs, just to name a few. How do you feel now; better or worse? These are just a few of the things that may not be under your control that can affect your profit. The point is, since there are so many ways of losing money that are not under your control, why would you jeopardize your business by doing stupid things that are under your control.

I bet you are wondering, why I am discussing managing a business by talking about mistakes and failures first. This is an easy answer. Many of you do not do the things that will make you successful by building your business from a base of knowledge first. No, not you; you want to jump in headfirst. That is why we talk about the failures first.

I have identified seven major reasons why builders fail and we are going to discuss each of them. I will put them in order from the first mistakes to the last. See if any of these fit your situation. Do not take it personal if they do. Put on your big boy pants and see if you can correct your deficiencies. I will give you the problem first, and then give you the remedial action that it takes to correct it.

Problem #1-not having enough homebuilding knowledge: I cannot begin to tell you how many people get into the homebuilding business and do not have the slightest idea of what they are doing. Maybe, they are carpenters, plumbers, or painters and believe they know what it takes to be a builder. I can assure you, they will soon find out just how little they know. The problem is their scope of homebuilding has been limited to their trade. Over the years, they acquire tidbits of information that form a mosaic of self-professed knowledge.

The fortunate part is that these types of individuals can generate homebuilding business. The unfortunate part is that they get many jobs by underbidding. For the short period of time that these people are in business, they generate some cash flow from construction draws. They are inclined not to handle funds correctly, cannot estimate properly, have little or no insurance, provide little or no supervision, short cut the contracts, and do not pay federal income taxes. Other than these few little things, they are superb at their profession. Oh, by the way, did I mention that they screw their customers royally? The customers wind up getting a lousy job that could have gone to a legitimate builder. What is a matter with you? Surely, you were not born that stupid. Somebody needs to tell you that you are not qualified to do this kind of work. It might as well be me.

Remedy: Get the hell out of the homebuilding business until you learn your trade. Take classes at a community college that offer courses in construction management. Read all the books you can about homebuilding. Learn about fundamental book keeping procedures. If you continue on the way you are, you are going to wind up possibly being involved in a lawsuit, prosecuted by the district attorney’s office, and perhaps wind up in prison.

When you finally start developing your knowledge base, go to work for a builder in the capacity of a superintendent. Get that type of experience under your belt. Maybe, just maybe, you can acquire the skills necessary to start a small homebuilding business.

Problem #2-not having enough startup capital: You simply cannot start a homebuilding business without operating capital. You are going to need funds for advance payment of materials and subcontract labor. A number of bills will have to be paid prior to you receiving your construction draws or your operation will come to a grinding halt. You will not be able to run an operation with construction draws alone. Many have tried and many have failed. At this stage in the game, you probably do not have credit terms with major suppliers. Even if you did, your subcontractors are not going to want to wait for their money until you get a draw. They need paid promptly if their work was in compliance to their contract terms.

If you are building a 2 - 3,000 square foot home for a customer on a turnkey contract basis you need to have a minimum of $50,000 available to float job expenses until the construction draws replenish your accounts.

Since we are talking about under capitalization, let us briefly discuss building spec (speculation) homes. I have four very strict rules about building spec homes. 1. Research the area you want to build in and know who your target market is going to be. Location is everything 2. Never build a spec home unless you have all your own money to build it with and you can afford to have the home sit at length without having a buyer. If you have to pay interest on a construction loan and house does not sell quickly, you can kiss a lot of your anticipated profit goodbye. 3. If you are new to the spec home game, start out building one small home and see how it goes. If you get in over your head too quickly, game over.

4. Do not overbuild a spec home with too many amenities. For the most part, build the spec home to the minimum code requirements. I can assure you, your competitors will not be adding many frills, and your house will take longer to sell and have less profit when it finally does.

Remedy: If you have the other skills and attributes of homebuilding working for you, then my advice is to contract with a customer to build their home and they pay all of the job expenses as they come due. This will take the pressure off your back and transfer it to theirs. You need to be honest with them up front and let them know that they are going to have to float expenses until the construction draws are deposited into their account. You will charge a fee to the customer for your professional services.

Problem #3-not using proper contracts: Many builders make the mistake of using the same formatted contract for every customer and every situation. Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that people are different. Do you remember when we talked about tolerance level in an earlier chapter? It is never truer than now. Eventually you are going to be tagged with a customer who is beyond being reasonable. Nothing you can do seems to satisfy them. These types of individuals can turn you inside out and withhold your money for seemingly frivolous things. If you are a relatively new small volume builder, somebody like this could bring your homebuilding operation to a standstill. The worst type of contract to be in with a customer like this is a turnkey contract. We discussed the various types of contracts in an earlier chapter. I think you better reread them.

In this scenario, your relationship with this customer is going downhill fast. If you cannot regain control of the situation, they may drive you out of business especially if there are substantial amounts of money involved. You may not have enough money on hand to keep paying bills that are coming due and mount a defense at the same time. Many times, these situations lead to a lawsuit, mediation, and/or arbitration. The result is that your operation will become paralyzed. Only the attorneys will come out the winners.

Remedy: Spend enough time with a prospective client up front to pick up on the vibrations or signals they may be giving you as to their personality, tolerance level, attitude, and honor. Spend more time listening carefully to what they say and less time talking about how good of a builder you are. You will be surprised what you will learn. At the end of the armpit sniffing (getting acquainted) period, you may conclude that this customer is a little too tricky for your good. Maybe the only way that you are going to be able to deal with them is to entertain a straight up cost plus contract. Even then, posture the contract so that you will receive frequent payments and get them to sign off on the work performed up to that point. You cannot afford to let this type of customer get too far ahead of you. If they will not agree to that type of contract, then my advice is to get away from them. You probably saved yourself a lot of aggravation and lost time. Do not be afraid to walk away from an asshole. Remember to use different types of contracts for different situations and personalities.

Example: I had an attorney for a customer some time back that I didn’t really trust from the moment we had our first meeting. I could tell from his end of the conversation that he was posturing for contractual control. As a builder, you simply cannot let this happen.

I decided that if we were going to do business together, it would have to be under tight constraints. I fashioned a straight up cost plus contract. Under the terms of the contract, Mr. Tricky Dickey would have to sign off on the work performed during the week every Friday. I would fax him a work progress memo outlining what was accomplished during the week. He would have to approve the work. He would sign the memo and fax it back to me before Monday. If he had issues with anything that was done during the previous week, we would stop what we were doing and address his concerns until he was satisfied. At that point he would sign the progress memo. Then, and only then would we resume work. Under the payment terms, he was to pay me every two weeks based on the approved work of the previous two weeks. This may seem like an extreme way of doing business to some of you but I got paid religiously, the job turned out great, and he was a happy camper. Once he saw that I meant business, he backed off and was a good customer to the end of the contract. As a builder, what more could you ask for? That was the only time I ever had to use that type of contract. Don’t hesitate to do one yourself if the need arises. You’ll sleep better.

Problem #4-Inadaquate or poor supervision: Unbelievably, there are many builders who operate their business without a competent supervisor or no supervision on the job. They believe that their subcontractors should know what they are doing and if they do not, they will fire them and hire somebody else. This is the sign of an arrogant builder who really is not interested in building quality homes. I spend the greatest amount of time in Chapter 8 talking about the importance of supervision. No matter how good of subcontractor you have, they still need proper supervision. You cannot put your homebuilding operation on autopilot. Not having competent, knowledgeable supervision overseeing your operation can lead to many problems including upset customers, screwed up scheduling, upset subcontractors and lost money. How many more problems would you need before you finally throw in the towel?

Remedy: Read Chapter 8 again very carefully, and see if your operation needs a supervision overhaul. If you cannot see the handwriting on the wall after reading about the importance of good supervision, perhaps you should try your luck in some other vocation.

Problem #5-not handling construction funds correctly: A common problem for some builders is after they receive a construction draw, they do not comprehend that those funds are not theirs. They think they can use the funds for various activities that may include personal purchases. They look at the money and think, “This bill or that bill isn’t due to be paid until later on so I’ll just take some out of the account and replace it when I get some more money in.” Guess what? It does not make it back in. Maybe the additional money they thought they were going to get gets side tracked, waylaid, goes south, whatever. Now the bill that they shorted is due for payment with no money to pay for it. Construction funds do not belong to the builder. The funds belong to suppliers and subcontractors whose bill is due to be paid or become due in short order. You need to get this through your thick head.

Remedy: Each homebuilding project should have its own checking account. You will pay for the construction costs of each job from its own stand-alone account. Any money left in the account after all job related expenses are paid represents your gross profit. Do not comingle funds from multiple jobs into one general account. Many small builders do this and many of them pay the price for it. Remember this; getting a construction draw does not make you instantly rich, but it does make you instantly obligated.

Problem #6-inability to estimate accurately: If you cannot estimate accurately, then all of the subsequent documentation required in order to obtain a construction loan is based on flawed information. A builder is walking a fine line between estimating too high, which many times means not getting a job or estimating too low, which many times means that you’ll get the job but not have enough money built in to cover costs, let alone ensuring a profit. There is a joke that you might have heard that says that “you can lose a little on every job but make up for it in volume.” Believe me, this is just a joke. Of these two scenarios, the worst one by far is underestimating a job. This is especially true if you do not have other jobs in progress that could pick up the slack. By this, I mean using the projected profit from one job to help cover the costs of a losing job. Do not misinterpret what I just said. I said use the projected profit, not the construction operating funds that you will need to pay that job’s costs. Under no circumstances should you divert the operating capital of any job to pay for construction costs of a losing job. This is the kiss of death. You better be prepared to obtain a short-term business loan to cover job expenses. At this point, you cannot worry about making a profit on this job. It will be all you can do to cover your expenses and escape unscathed.

When you have a losing job, you must keep your honor and credibility intact. In other words, you cannot deviate from the specifications in order to save money. You cannot tell your customer that you are losing money on their job nor can you ask your customer for more money. In fact, you cannot let your customer know that anything is wrong or you will lose your credibility and faith that your customer has had in you.

If you cannot estimate, you had better get educated in a hurry, or your business tenure is going to be short lived. The underestimating picture may indeed be the number one reason that builders fail.

Remedy: Many books are available that can teach you how to estimate. Research some of them to see which ones are easy to understand and give you the most meaningful information. In a number of areas of the country, construction-estimating courses are offered at some community colleges. It is worth looking into. There are various construction estimating software programs that can help you. Apply yourself. Do not let your pride or ego stand in the way of learning.

Problem #7-overextending their construction operation: On many occasions, I have seen builders that were very successful as a small builder. They would build from three to ten homes a year. They were making a nice living. The operation was small enough where the builder maintained tight oversight of their business. At some point, they made a decision to take on more contracts and/or extend the mileage radius of where they would build. The dynamics of the business changed. They could not cover all the bases by themselves. They had to make a commitment to hire additional staff. The additional staff requires additional payroll, taxes, insurance, and facilities. Here is where the problem comes into focus. Now you probably have enough staff to build 40 - 50 homes per year but you are only getting about 15 - 20 contracts per year. You are not maximizing your overhead. You are only utilizing approximately 35% of it. You will not be able to sustain this type of operation for long. You will be making less profit per job then when you had a smaller operation. You are confronted with the situation of either trying to figure out how to get more business or cut back on the overhead. Either way is tough and requires hard decisions. Many good builders have experienced this problem.

Remedy: Cut back on the operation. Go back to doing what you were doing prior to you becoming too big for your britches. The rule for expansion is simply this. Do not expand until you know that you will be able to utilize your overhead to at least 75% of maximum saturation from day one.

CREDIT

Nothing will reward you more than to maintain a good business credit relationship with your vendors. May I suggest that you become a member of Dun & Bradstreet, the nationwide business credit-reporting agency? Virtually all of your major trade references are also Dun & Bradstreet members, and report your payment history to D & B. At the heart of the rating system are six scores and ratings. They are listed as follows:

1. Paydex scale-This is a scale between 0 and 100. If you pay your bills within the agreed terms consistently, your paydex score will hover around 80. This is the industry mean standard score. If you consistently pay your bills sooner than the agreed to terms, then your Paydex score could be at or close to 100. As a builder, this is where you want to be.

2. Commercial credit score-This score denotes your risk of severe payment delinquency over the next 12 months. The lower the numerical score, the less the risk. For example: A score of 470 is considered class 2 which is a moderate risk and is in the national 85% percentile.

3. Financial stress score-This score denotes what your risk of severe financial stress factor is, such as a bankruptcy, over the next 12 months. The higher the score the more the risk. For example: A score of 1493 is considered class 3 which is considered a moderate risk and is in the national 60% percentile.

4. Supplier evaluation risk rating-This rating indicates what level of stress the supplier may experience over the next 12 months because of your inability to pay your bills as agreed. For example: The scale is 1-9. A score of 4 is considered in the medium range

5. Credit limit recommendation-This is a score that denotes credit risk category. It is on a scale of 1-5. A risk category of 1 is considered a low risk number. Conservative and aggressive credit limits are recommended based on your previous scores and ratings.

6. Dun & Bradstreet rating-This is a final evaluation rating based on all aforementioned criteria. For example: if you have been given a rating of 1A2, here is how that is broken down. 1A indicates a financial strength between $500,000 to $749,999.

The number 2 designates that your commercial credit appraisal is good.

This scoring system, as well as other factors, will determine how much business credit your company can qualify for. You should see the importance of protecting your business credit rating at all costs. The future of your business depends on it.

BOOKKEEPING AND ACCOUNTING

I have talked with many small builders said to me, “I love to build, but I can’t stand the paperwork.” or they might say something like this, “I work on the jobs all day, and I’m too tired in the evening when I get back home to do the books.”

When I hear things like this, it makes me wonder, when exactly, do they plan on attending to the real business.

Keeping accurate records is mandatory, not an option. If you cannot afford to have a bookkeeper, then you need to learn how to use QuickBooks for Contractor’s software. It is the best program on the market. You will see how important it is in keeping all your daily business receipts for things such as fuel expenses, etc. Learning how to use this system will give you a completely different attitude about “keeping the books.”

Remember, that when you are working with subcontractors, if you pay them $600 or more in labor from January 01 to December 31, you are going to have to report that income to the IRS. This also means that you are going to need their social security number, address, and driver’s license number. You should get this information before you give them their check. What if they only work for you once and you failed to get their tax information? When it comes time, you might not be able to get it later. How are you going to be able to give them their W1099 form? The answer is you cannot, so you may be left holding the bag for the taxes on their labor.

Of course, if your subcontractors are a corporation, company, or Limited Liability Company, then you will not need to worry about giving them a W1099.

When it comes to accounting, my suggestion is to find a local CPA that you feel comfortable with and can form an ongoing relationship. They can file your quarterly tax returns, end of year reports, and file your W1040’s, 1099’s etc. The better your bookkeeping records are, the less you will have to pay the CPA to put it all together.

Don’t forget about making your franchise tax return. You must stay in good standing with the state that you are building in.

I know that a good builder has to wear many hats. On any given day, you have to be a builder, banker, baby sitter, psychologist, and arbitrator.

A good builder has to possess a working knowledge about bookkeeping, estimating, writing contracts, and tax payments, just to name a few. Oh yes, did I mention that a good builder has to master building a high quality home in the least amount of time?

Where do you stack up with the problems we just discussed? Did this put some things in perspective?

No one person can possibly know everything about every facet of homebuilding. It is a continual learning process. If you want to be a successful builder, you will have to continue to learn, or one day you will wake up and the industry will have passed you on by.

If you can avoid making these critical mistakes and make a conscience effort to better your program, then I see no reason why you will not be successful and have a meaningful homebuilding career. You do not have to build 50 or more homes a year to be successful. Success does not come from the volume of homes that you build; it comes from the quality of homes. There is no greater reward as a homebuilder than to have a former customer call you back years later and say “build us another home.”

When it becomes necessary to hire people to help you strengthen the areas you are lacking in, hire the best individuals you can afford. Surround yourself with professional oriented people that are more knowledgeable in their field of expertise than you are. This is the sign of a good manager. Some builders may be intimidated by this, but you need not be. This is the best path to follow on your road to profit.

Would you believe we reached the end of the trail? I told you I would meet you here. I hope your homebuilding experience was enlightening, educational, and provided many good memorable moments. Let me know how it turned out. Send me some photos. They may wind up in the next edition just like Scott and Brenda Chambers did.

I am interested in knowing how your homebuilding experience went. Did my book help you get the home you wanted? Let me know by contacting me at mastersguidetohomebuilding.com.

I also want to know how we could make The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding better. Let me know what additional information you would like to see in future printings. This was a difficult book to put together since I had to do it myself. If you spot any spelling, typos, or grammatical errors please feel free to let me know where you found them and I’ll correct them for future editions. This also lets me know that you read the book thoroughly.

Tell others about the book. Maybe it can keep them out of trouble as well.

Thank you for your time in reading The Master’s Guide to Homebuilding.

—S. Earl Thompson

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CREDITS

I would like to thank the following businesses and individuals whose information and/or images was obtained through various sources. Their information was considered important enough, that I wanted to share it with my reader’s. Every attempt was made to attribute any copied material to the original author and/or source.

The following credits are in alphabetical order:

About.com

About.com

Answers.com

Aquaguard Corp.

Bayonet Plumbing Co.

BestManagementArticles.com

Block World Corp.

Construction Dispute Resolution Services

Cultured Stone Corp.

Daniel Friedman

Dun & Bradstreet

DuPont Corp.

Ehow.com

FiveStar

Garden Web

Generac

GWB Well Drilling

Harlequin

Heat n Glo Corporation

Home Team Pest Defense

Home Team Pest Defense

HomeBuildingManual.com

InspectAPedia.com

Kohler Corp.

Miele

Mimi.hu

Rinnai Corp.

Simpson Strong Tie Corp.

Sub-Zero

Typar Corp.

University of California

US Geological Survey

WikiHow

Wikipedia

William B. Rose

Woodridge Construction Management Articles