Building Kitchen Cabinets

and Bathroom Vanities

STEVE CORY

Building Kitchen Cabinets

and Bathroom Vanities

Building Kitchen Cabinets

and Bathroom Vanities

STEVE CORY

t

Text © 2015 by The Taunton Press, Inc.

Photographs © 2015 by The Taunton Press, Inc., except where noted on p. 198

Illustrations © 2015 by the Taunton Press, Inc.

All rights reserved.

Pp

The Taunton Press, Inc., 63 South Main Street

PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506

e-mail: tp@taunton.com

Editor: Christina Glennon

Copy Editor: Candace B. Levy

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Cover design: Jean Marc Troadec

Interior design: Tinsley Morrison

Layout: Laura Lind Design

Illustrator: Mike Wanke, except where noted on p. 198

Photographer: Steve Cory and Diane Slavik, except where noted on p. 198

Cover photographer: Dan Stultz

The following names/manufacturers appearing in Building Kitchen Cabinets and Bathroom Vanities are trademarks: Automaxx™, Bench Klamp System™, Corian®, FastCap®, Formica®, Forstner®, Kreg®, Phillips®, Rev-A-Shelf®, SketchUp®, Space Balls®, Speed® Square, Titebond®, Vix®, Wite-Out®

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Cory, Steve.

Building kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities / Steve Cory.

pages cm

Includes index.

ISBN 978-1-62710-793-8

ISBN 978-1-63186-492-6 (eBook)

ISBN 978-1-63186-493-3 (ePub)

ISBN 978-1-63186-494-0 (mobi)

ISBN 978-1-63186-495-7 (fixed)

1. Kitchen cabinets. 2. Bathroom cabinets. I. Title.

TT197.5.K57C675 2015

684.1’6--dc23

2015019767

Printed in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About Your Safety: Homebuilding is inherently dangerous. From accidents with power tools to falls from ladders, scaffolds, and roofs, builders risk serious injury and even death. We try to promote safe work habits. But what is safe for one person under certain circumstances may not be safe for you under different circumstances. So don’t try anything you learn about here (or elsewhere) unless you’re certain that it is safe for you. Please be careful.

Acknowledgments

The following individuals and businesses helped in the creation of this book: Windy City Counter Tops (www.windycitycountertops.com), Chicago-area fabricators and installers of

granite and other stone countertops.

Mike Fish of Vogon Construction (www.vogonconstruction.com), Chicago-area home remodeling and

cabinetry.

Kokontis & Company Woodworking (www.kokontisandcompany.com), cabinetry, furniture design, and fine woodworking serving suburban Chicago.

Sommerfeld Tools (www.sommerfeldtools.com), suppliers of advanced woodworking tools for

cabinetmakers.

Owl Hardwood Lumber Company (www.owlhardwood.com), suppliers of fine hardwoods.

Mike Anderson of Quality Solutions, fine woodworking for residential, commercial, and marine applications, in Olympia, Washington.

Kreg® Tools (www.kregtool.com), makers of joining, clamping, and fastening systems for professionals and do-it-yourselfers.

Rev-A-Shelf® (www.rev-a-shelf.com), makers of cabinet organizers and shelving.

Thanks to: Mike Fish, Mike Anderson, Danny Campana, Richard Andrews, Tom Kokontis, Dan Vejr, and Christina Glennon.

contents

Introduction

1

Chapter 1: Design

4

Chapter 2: tools

22

Chapter 3: Wood

36

Chapter 4: Basic Building Methods

50

Chapter 5: Face Frames

66

Chapter 6: Wall Cabinets

80

Chapter 7: Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

105

Chapter 8: Doors and Drawer Faces

131

Chapter 9: Finishing and Installing

161

Chapter 10: Bathroom Vanities

184

Credits

198

Index

199

introduction

UnLIke most woodworking projects, kitchen

Whether you are an experienced woodworker

cabinets are rarely built as single units. Instead, it

with a shop full of pro-level tools or a do-it-your-

usually makes sense to plan for a whole set, buy

selfer with a few stationary tools in a garage or

the materials, and custom-build a series of cabinets

basement space, this book will enable you to build

that neatly line up and fit the space requirements.

kitchen cabinets that will stay great looking and

While some of the work may be a bit factory-like,

easy to use for decades.

the custom-design aspect makes it more creative,

If you are low on skills, time, or tools, you may

interesting, and satisfying—letting you add varia-

choose to build only the cabinet cases and the

tions wherever you need them in order to make the

drawer bodies yourself. You can then order doors

best use of your kitchen space.

and drawer faces from a company. If you’re feeling

1

more ambitious, I’ll show you how to build some

Plan, Plan, Plan

simple doors and drawer faces, including slab and

You may be the type of person who likes to start

cottage style. And if you have the time, skills, and

building, and then read instructions only when

tools, I’ll show you how to build more elaborate

necessary. That approach often works for making

doors and drawer faces with details like raised

individual pieces. But a kitchen generally includes

panels and milled rails and stiles.

dozens of cabinets and appliances that need to

Why build yourself instead of buying ready-made

fit together perfectly. Any experienced kitchen

cabinets? Here are some good reasons:

remodeler can tell you a number of stories about

•   Inexpensive ready-made cabinets are usually

costly mistakes due to rushing the design process.

poorly made, often with particleboard cases that

So before you go out and buy materials, sit back

are inadequately stapled together. They typically

in your favorite chair and spend some quality time

have cheap hinges and weak drawer glides.

with this book. Good plans save time and money.

Building yourself allows you to choose quality

materials.

Style and coSt

•   

First, choose your cabinet style or styles. (Cabinet

Better-quality ready-made cabinets will cost

cases are basic and boxy; it’s the doors and drawer

a great deal more money. Depending on the

faces that set the tone.) This decision involves

materials you choose, you can often save quite a

both aesthetic and practical considerations—that

bit by building yourself.

is, what looks good and what you can reasonably

•   Ready-made units come only in standard sizes

afford to build.

and usually require spacers—that is, vertical

Once you’ve narrowed your style choices, check

strips to fill in dead space between cabinets.

out chapter 8 and look for the sections that de-

When you build yourself, you can achieve a

scribe the building process for your style selections.

classier custom look with cabinets that fit like a

Find out all the tools you will need (chapter 2)

glove, while also eliminating wasted space.

and make a realistic assessment of your skills. If

•   Let’s not forget the satisfaction that comes from building your chosen type of door seems daunting, building something yourself—not just the sense

perhaps choose another, simpler, style.

of accomplishment at the end but also the good

feeling that comes from the process of design-

MaterialS and finiSh

ing and building a one-of-a-kind kitchen.

Chapter 3 introduces most of the materials—

•   

sheet goods and hardwoods—available for building

The unique kitchen that you build can fit your

cabinets. Of course, you will want to take costs into

family’s needs to a tee. You can size cabinets,

account when choosing your materials.

drawers, and shelves so your plates, glasses,

Using information from chapter 1, make a drawing

pots and pans, and appliances fit neatly and

of your proposed kitchen. Use the info found at the

comfortably.

beginnings of chapters 4 and 5 to calculate materi-

als needed for the cabinet cases. Then figure the

How to Use This Book

materials you will need for making the drawer bodies

and shelves (chapter 7). Finally, calculate the materi-

Because there are so many styles of cabinets to

als for doors and drawer faces (chapter 8). Add it all

choose from, you will no doubt end up picking and

up and choose a material you can afford.

choosing your way through this book, to find the in-

Finally, consider whether you want to apply a

structions that apply to you. I’ve arranged the book

simple finish coat or a stain plus finish or perhaps

to make that process as smooth as possible.

you’ll choose to paint the cabinets.

2 Building Kitchen Cabinets and Bathroom Vanities

MIx It Up

As you peruse style options for your cabinet doors and drawers, consider combining different styles or colors to make the overall design more interesting. For instance, if you like the Mission style, you might consider complementing that basic choice with sections of cabinets that vary the design or color. One easy way to do this is to swap out wood panels for glass in one section of the kitchen (there are a number of glass options, including beaded and frosted). Or you can use the slab style on drawer faces. To vary the color, consider using a contrasting stain or painting cabinets in one area of the kitchen, perhaps along a short wall or an island. Think of the design process as painting with a large paintbrush: A few graceful strokes break up the monotony of all the cabinets in the same color and design. You can tie the design together with details like cove molding at the top of the cabinets or complementary handles. Design software can help you visualize the possibilities.

I n t r o d u c t i o n 3

CHAPTER

design

1IF YOU’RE going to invest the effort and money ideas. Visit kitchen design showrooms and home into building your own kitchen cabinets, you’ll want

improvement stores. Stroll electronically through

to be sure to get just the look and design you want.

sites like Houzz (houzz.com), where you can quickly

In addition to choosing a style that pleases you and

look at hundreds of kitchens. Leaf through kitchen-

your family, be sure to provide spaces tailored for

design and home-improvement magazines.

your family’s needs, such as shelving and cabinet

space for dinnerware, glassware, and cookware

THE WORK TRIANGLE, UPDATED

as well as ample storage to keep small appliances

A classic kitchen design principle states that the

tucked away yet within easy reach. When you build

cooking surface, the sink, and the refrigerator

yourself, you can design drawers, cabinet openings,

should be arranged at the ends of an imaginary

and shelves that are just the right depth, width, and

triangle, so that all three features are within easy

height for your favorite kitchen items.

reach of each other—but not too close together.

Kitchen design involves more than the cabinets,

Added together, the three sides of the triangle

though. Plan meticulously to include appliances—

should total no more than 26 ft. and each leg of the

notably, a refrigerator, range or oven and cooktop,

triangle should be between 4 ft. and 9 ft. long. The

dishwasher, and vent fan. Also plan for lighting

area inside the triangle should, ideally, not overlap

and electrical outlets, including those on the wall

with a major traffi c area; people should be able to

between the countertop and the wall cabinets.

travel through the kitchen via another route.

It’s common to measure for countertops after the

The triangle is defi nitely a good idea. However,

cabinets are installed, but you may want to choose

things often get complicated. For example, most

them both ahead of time.

kitchens today have a dishwasher (which often

Don’t forget to plan for special amenities. You

gets used more than the sink) and a microwave

may, for instance, want a lazy susan for a corner

oven (which may get used dozens of times per

cabinet, a pull-out garbage bin, or a shelf organizer

day). Also, a classic triangle is easy to achieve if

of a certain type. Be sure to build cabinets that will

your kitchen is U-shaped or if it has an island. But

successfully house the features you want.

many kitchen spaces will not allow to you to form

a perfect triangle. So use the triangle as a starting

Kitchen Planning

point but then think things through:

• Are you designing primarily for one cook or

Even if you think you already know exactly what you

will there often be two or more cooks? If the

want, don’t hesitate to consider new kitchen design

latter, make sure each has his or her own work

4

This kitchen incorporates the refrigerator, sink, microwave, dishwasher, and range into a space that is fairly compact without feeling too tight.

CLASSIC KITCHEN TRIANGLE

The basic work triangle is a useful way to start a design.

Sink

Dishwasher

below

Kitchen

work

In a long, narrow kitchen with a

triangle

door at the end, a triangle is simply

not possible. Still, the refrigerator,

dishwasher, sink, range, and micro-

Range/cooktop

wave are positioned so that the

Refrigerator

longest distance (between the fridge

and the microwave) is not too much

of a schlep.

D e s i g n 5

In a large kitchen, a large island opposite the

main counter provides a number of conveniently

placed surfaces and appliances for cooking, wash-

ing, and preparing.

tip Many people prefer to place the sink at a

window, because it makes dishwashing a bit

more pleasant and, well, it’s just traditional.

However, there are other considerations: If you

have a dishwasher, you will probably spend more

time working on a countertop or a cooktop than

at the sink. If your current plumbing is far from

the window, moving it could be expensive. And

if a sink at the window causes you to have your

back to the rest of the house, you may prefer a

different location.

surface as well as access to the refrigerator and

cooktop without bumping into the other cooks

too often.

• If kids are around, they will likely want to get at the refrigerator and the microwave several

times a day. You may want to position those

appliances so snackers will not interfere with

the cook.

• If traffic often flows through the kitchen—say, to a much-used back door—try to provide a path-way that doesn’t run through the food-prep area.

• Avoid bottlenecks whenever possible. For

instance, if there is a single 3-ft.-wide doorway

leading from the dining room to the kitchen, it

may be worth the effort and expense to open

the wall up and provide wider access.

• Will the kitchen be used for other purposes

besides meal prep? For instance, will it be a spot

for eating informal meals, possibly in a breakfast

Don’t be afraid to incorporate non-kitchen

nook or at a cantilevered counter with stools?

elements into a kitchen. Here a coat rack is

The kitchen may also function as a place for

convenient to the back door.

hanging coats and taking off boots if there isn’t

6 Design

a separate mudroom. And many people appreci-

that something doesn’t fit quite right, so that a door

ate having a small office desk in the kitchen.

or drawer will not open fully or may not open at all.

• If you do not have a separate pantry, you may

As a result, several cabinets need to be removed

want to section off part of the kitchen with

and replaced. With careful planning you can avoid

floor-to-ceiling cabinets to create a pantry area.

this discouraging scenario.

Measure the room carefully, down to an eighth

of an inch. Walls may be out of plumb, so measure

Details, Details

between two walls at several heights, and use the

shortest measurement.

If you hang around kitchen remodelers long

You can use a software program to design

enough, you’re bound to hear a story like this:

your kitchen or you can make a simple plan view

Someone goes to great expense and effort to build

drawing, as shown in “Plan View” on p. 9. You can and install a dozen or more kitchen cabinets, only

easily and clearly include both wall cabinets and

to discover—sometimes, at the very end of the job,

base cabinets in the same drawing because wall

perhaps when the range is wheeled into place—

cabinets are half the depth of base cabinets.

KITCHEN DESIGN SOFTWARE

You can buy a three-dimensional kitchen design program, also called a CAD (computer-aided design) program, for kitchens for $100 or less. Several software companies make them. Visit online forums for discussions of various programs.

Many builders have found that SketchUp® meets all their needs; it has become the lingua franca of the construction

world. It allows you

to create your own

cabinet designs

or choose from

a vast library of

ready-designed

cabinets from its

“3D warehouse.”

The free version of

SketchUp meets

most people’s

needs, but you can

also purchase an

enhanced version

for more features.

D e s i g n 7

Before you draw or work with software, make

adjoining cabinets. Where cabinets meet side walls,

sure you know the exact required openings for all

it’s usually best to allow for a 11⁄2-in. space, which

your appliances, such as for the refrigerator, range,

can be filled with a spacer piece, so that doors can

and dishwasher as well as for the sink. For exam-

open fully. If you have an island, allow at least 42 in.

ple, a refrigerator is typically 32 in. or 36 in. wide

of space between it and facing cabinets and appli-

and a modest range is usually 30 in. wide. You will

ances; 48 in. is better if you expect multiple cooks.

probably build a base cabinet for the sink; make

Also make an elevation view (see “Elevation

sure the cabinet is large enough.

View” on the facing page) or rotate your CAD draw-

Pay special attention to door clearances: Make

ing so you can look at the cabinets from the side.

sure you will be able to open the refrigerator, oven,

The gaps between doors will vary depending on the

and dishwasher easily as well as the doors to the

style you choose.

BASIC DIMENSIONS

In most cases, a wall cabinet is about 12 in.

CABINET DIMENSIONS

deep. (The wall cabinets I show later in the book,

for example, have bodies that are 111⁄

12 in.

2 in. deep

and overlaid doors that are 3⁄4 in. thick, for a

total depth of 121⁄4 in.) You can make your wall

cabinets 30 in. tall, which will leave a space on

top for storage or a soffit. Or you can make them

Wall

30 in.

42 in. or taller, so they reach the ceiling.

At the bottom of the base cabinet there is

84 in.

a toekick, typically 3 in. to 4 in. high and deep,

which makes it comfortable to stand close to the

counter. Most people prefer a countertop height

of 36 in. (Shorter or taller people may prefer

18 in.

a countertop that is lower or higher.) If your

11⁄2 in.

25 in.

countertop is 11⁄2 in. thick, make the cabinets

341⁄2 in. tall, including the toekick; adjust the

cabinet height if the countertop is thinner or

Countertop

thicker. Most base cabinets are about 24 in. deep

31 in.

with a 25-in.-deep countertop that overhangs the

Base

cabinet by about 1 in.

An 18-in. vertical space between the

countertop and the bottom of the wall cabinet

24 in.

is good for installing under-cabinet lights that

will illuminate the countertop without shining in

people’s eyes.

31⁄2 in.

8 Design

PLAN VIEW

223 in.

24 in.

7 in.

7 in.

58 in.

Window

36 in.

75 in.

42 in.

28 in.

42 in.

24 in.

Sink

Dish-

36 in.

washer

Ref.

251⁄2 in.

Lazy susan

Open shelves

Open shelves

131⁄2 in.

Oven

311⁄2 in.

120 in.

Upper Cabinets

39 in.

Pantry

Lower Cabinets

ELEVATION VIEW

91 in.

335⁄

6 in.

8 in.

153⁄4 in.

335⁄8 in.

1513⁄16 in.

313⁄4 in.

283⁄4 in.

203⁄4 in.

31⁄2 in.

365⁄8 in.

543⁄8 in.

*Note: These plans come from different kitchens so the dimensions won’t necessarily be the same.

D e s i g n 9

tip

After you complete your kitchen plan

drawing, check it carefully to make sure all

doors and drawers will open fully; take the

thickness of cabinet pulls and appliance

handles into account.

Door and Drawer

Face Options

By far the most visible parts of the cabinets will

be the doors and the drawer faces. Some types

Visit a kitchen store to see a wide selection of

are much more difficult to make than others. So

door styles, wood species, and finishes.

choose the style, materials, and finish that please

you but also make sure you will be able to build

Drawer faces are usually attached to the face

them—lots of them—in a reasonable amount of

of a drawer body after the body has been built.

time and without having to spend too much money

Drawer faces are sometimes built to match the

on new tools.

style of doors, for a uniform kitchen style. However,

in some kitchens, drawer faces are simpler—for

instance, doors may be made with rails and stiles,

END PANELS

while drawer faces are plain 1× slabs, perhaps with

a routed edge detail.

End panels, which cover the sides of cabinets where

they will be visible, are sometimes made to mimic the

SLAB STYLE

look of doors—and they’re made in much the same way.

The simplest doors are just slabs, with no frames or

However, some people prefer plain end panels even

detailing. Many people appreciate their clean lines.

when the cabinet doors are built more decoratively.

Adding decorative pulls or knobs may provide all

the visual interest they want.

To make slab doors and faces, use high-quality

plywood or melamine board or other stock that is

dry and unlikely to warp; if you do that, your doors

should remain warp-free for decades. To further

ensure against warping, you may choose to add

two or more horizontal cleats to the back side of

the door.

These, of course, are the easiest doors to build.

If you choose to go with slabs, you can build your

kitchen cabinets using only a tablesaw—or even

just a circular saw with a reliable guide. The cut

edges of the slabs can be covered with edge-

banding or you may choose to frame the slabs with

thin strips of wood.

10 Design

Slab doors made of stained hardwood plywood

These slab doors can be quickly made with

feel modern yet cozy.

white melamine board—as long as you are able to

make very straight cuts in sheet goods.

HARDWARE OPTIONS

The knobs or pulls you choose go a long way toward defining the look of your cabinets. Knobs can recede visually or they can make a stunning statement. Styles range from old-fashioned to a casual cottage look to sleek and European.

D e s i g n 11

These doors are

made with Shaker

frames and 1⁄4-in.

plywood panels.

Straightforward crown

molding at the top

completes the look.

These cabinets have

routed stiles and

rails as well as raised

panels.

FRAME-AND-PANEL DOORS

The most common door type is composed of a

panel surrounded by a frame. The frame’s two

vertical members are called the stiles, and the two

horizontals are the rails.

Plywood panels. Panels may be made of

plywood, which is most often 1⁄4 in. thick. Plywood

panels, which are commonly used for economical

cabinets you can buy at home centers, are inexpen-

sive and easy to make. You simply cut the panels

to size. Doors made with plywood panels are light,

but if constructed carefully they can certainly be

durable. And many people prefer their sleek, more

modern look to that of raised panels.

Raised panels. The raised panels shown in the

photo at right are made with 3⁄4-in.-thick material,

shaped so the edges fit into the 1⁄4-in.-thick grooves

in the stiles and rails. If the door will be painted, it

can be made of a sheet of medium-density fiber-

board (MDF). If it will be stained, pieces of hardwood

are glued edge to edge to make up a panel.

12 Design

Raised panels are something of a challenge to

make. Before you can edge-glue wood pieces

together, the edges must be perfectly straight or

gaps will appear where they join. Even straight-

looking dimensional lumber is rarely straight enough.

So you will need to run the edges of the boards

through a jointer or perhaps a router table specially

equipped for jointing. Unless your boards are

perfectly flat, they should be run through a modest-

size thickness planer. Once the pieces are glued

together, the surface will need to be smoothed.

Depending on how precisely the boards are joined,

you may need only to sand them smooth. Or you

This door has a Shaker-style look, but it is modi-

may need to run them through an extra-wide thick-

fied with a chamfered inside edge, which makes it

easier to keep clean.

ness planer, which is a very expensive machine.

Rails and stiles. Frames made with very simple

rails and stiles can be produced using a tablesaw,

but most frame types require a good-quality

variable-speed router of at least 21⁄4 hp, a router

table, and specially matched bits to produce the

grooves in the sides, so the four frame pieces and

the panel can fit together.

Shaker-style doors have simple square- looking

rails and stiles. A modified Shaker style has a

frame that is square cut on its outside edges but is

slightly chamfered (or beveled) on the inside, so it

collects less dust.

COTTAGE STYLE

If rustic, shabby chic, or homey is the look you’re

after, building drawers and drawer faces can be

pretty straightforward. You don’t want them to look

sloppy, but joints can be a bit more casual. Cottage-

style doors often use two or three horizontal cleats

on each door; the cleats are usually on the back

side, but could be on the front for an even more

rustic look. The vertical boards are sometimes

tongue and groove, which you could buy or make

yourself using a router table.

The darker stain along the outside edge of

the door panels makes this kitchen seem formal

and dignified.

D e s i g n 13

Cottage-style doors often use tongue-and-groove joinery.

These doors are held together with cleats on the back.

Thick cross-reeded

textured glass

obscures the dinner-

ware inside and

creates a memo-

rable look.

GLASS DOORS

they don’t want to make every cabinet a window

You may want to show off some of your glassware

display that they have to keep neat. It’s common

or dinnerware with glass doors; glass opens up a

to use the same frame pieces as on the other

kitchen and makes it feel more spacious. Doors

doors, but simpler frames usually do not look out of

with glass inserts are not difficult to build and can

place. Obscure or textured glass (including seeded,

be made to suit a variety of styles. Most people

ribbed, cross-reeded, and frosted) lessens the need

prefer to have only a couple of doors with glass;

for neatly organized shelves.

14 Design

Cabinet Configurations

Face-frame cabinets are perhaps the most com-

mon type in this country. Here are some reasons

In addition to choosing the door and drawer face

for that:

style, there are two more basic cabinet choices to

• Because the frames run past the case on the

make: whether you will build frameless or face-

outside, they can be planed or sanded to fit if a

frame cabinets and whether the doors and drawer

small error is made or if a wall is wavy.

faces will be overlaid or inset in the cabinets.

• Some people feel that the frame adds needed

FRAME OR FRAMELESS?

strength and rigidity to a cabinet.

There are two basic ways to build cabinet cases

• Though sheet goods should always be cut

(also called carcases): with or without a face frame.

straight and clean, a face frame will cover very

Which you choose depends on your skills and

small blemishes in the cut.

tools and, to a certain extent, on the look you want,

There are, however, some downsides:

although when the doors are closed the two types

can look very similar.

• Because the frame is wider than the side of the

cabinet, access to the inside of the cabinet is

Face frame. A face-frame cabinet is constructed

slightly limited.

of sheet goods with a frame in front, usually made

of 11⁄

• Face frames necessitate narrower drawers. A

2-in.-wide hardwood. Because plywood or

melamine sheets are usually 3⁄

typical frame overlays the inside of the cabinet by

4 in. thick, the frames

1

overlap the sheets by 1⁄

⁄2 in., which means the drawer will be 1 in. nar-

4 in. on the inside and the

outside. Door hinges are mounted on the frame

rower than one installed on a frameless cabinet.

rather than on the sheet goods.

• Hardwood frames are fairly pricey—or very pricey, if you use cherry or another high-end wood.

CABINET FRAMES

Hinges mounted

on cabinet side

Hinges

mounted on

Predrilled

face frame

5mm holes

Face-Frame Cabinet

Frameless Cabinet

Door and drawer front

can be full overlay, partial Full-overlay door

overlay, or inset.

and drawer front

D e s i g n 15

These cabinets are

made with a face frame

that is visible at the

bottom only; aside from

the bottom, they are

indistinguishable from

frameless cabinets.

Frameless. Also known as Euro-style, frameless

• In the past, hinges that are attached to the

cabinets are built in the same way as frame cabi-

sheet goods rather than to a wood frame had a

nets, but without the frame. The face of the case

tendency to pull out. But with today’s hardware,

is covered with glued-on edge-banding instead of

even hinges attached to particleboard or MDF

wood strips.

will stay strong.

Some folks are leery of frameless cabinetry, but it

Here are some possible downsides:

is gaining in popularity for several reasons:

•

• To make frameless cabinets, you must have

It is economical because you don’t need to buy

confidence in your ability to cut the front edges

hardwood for the trim.

precisely straight and clean, without even tiny

• Access to the inside of the cabinet is not limited chips, because the edge-banding will not always

by a frame.

hide imperfections.

• It has been proved strong enough in most

• Cabinets must be correctly sized because there

situations. One possible exception: a cabinet

are no frames to plane or sand for minor adjust-

wider than 36 in. that is freestanding—that is, not

ments. However, frameless cabinets are typically

wedged between cabinets or a wall on each side.

installed with a space left open near the wall,

However, frameless cabinets are plenty strong

which can be filled with a strip of wood. This

in the typical kitchen setup because the ends of

strip of wood can accommodate those minor

horizontal members are tightly captured between

adjustments.

the verticals and therefore almost never sag.

The projects in this book are pretty evenly divided

• Assuming you install doors and drawer faces

between frameless and face-frame cabinetry.

that are overlaid, faceless cabinets look almost

exactly the same as framed cabinets once the

doors are closed.

16 Design

OVERLAY AND INSET OPTIONS

You must also decide how much of the cabinet

case or frame the doors and drawer faces will

cover. The basic options are as follows:

• A full overlay door is the most common type

of door nowadays. This style covers the frame

or case edge almost completely, so you see

only the doors and drawer faces when they are

closed.

• A partial overlay door is used for face-frame

cabinets only. This style typically exposes 1 in.

of the (horizontal) rails and 2 in. of the (vertical)

Inset doors are a bit tricky to achieve but create a

stiles, but you may choose to expose more or

look with old-fashioned appeal.

less of the rails and/or stiles. Older versions of

partial overlay doors had rabbets cut around the

perimeter to create a lip, so the door sat partway

inside the opening.

• Inset doors are set inside frame or frame-

less cabinets. This creates a vintage look that

many people like. There is typically a 1⁄8-in.

gap between the door and the case or frame.

Inset doors must be precisely cut to fit; even

tiny imperfections will scream for attention. For

that reason, they are usually built to be a bit too

large, and then are cut to size just before install-

ing. In this style, hinges, or at least the hinge

pins, are visible.

WALL CABINET HEIGHTS

Partially overlaid doors expose part of the door

Of course, the taller the cabinet, the more you

frame, for a slightly more traditional appearance.

can store in it. But all of a 30-in.-tall wall cabinet’s

shelves will be accessible to an adult of average

height. If cabinets are 36 in. or 42 in. tall, people

tip

may need a stepstool to get at the top shelves—not

The kitchen floor may be installed first, in which

a problem if the uppermost items are rarely needed.

case you will want to protect it with heavy

cardboard while installing the cabinets. Or you

CORNER POSSIBILITIES

can install the cabinets so they rest on top of

An inside corner is often treated with an angled

wall cabinet and two straight base cabinets, as

temporary pieces that are the same thickness as

shown in the photo on the facing page. An angled

the future floor. Once the cabinets are in place,

wall cabinet improves accessible space, especially

you can then install the flooring, slipping it

if you add a lazy susan. It is also possible to install

under the cabinets.

an angled corner base cabinet, but that can create

D e s i g n 17

SETTING ON TOP

A base cabinet can be made with full-

height vertical sheets that rest on the floor.

In that case, the sheets will be cut with

a notch at the bottom to accommodate

the toekick. Another method, used in this

book, is to build a simple box that is

31⁄2 in. shorter than the cabinet will be

and to install it on a frame made of 2×4s

that rest on the floor. Or the box can

be set on adjustable legs (see p. 108).

Either the 2×4 frame or the legs are

covered with 1×4 finish pieces for a

neat-looking toekick.

If there is no soffit, the space above the cabinets

BASIC BOX ON TOP OF 2×4 TOEKICK

can be used for display.

Cabinet bottom made of 3⁄4-in. plywood

Shim 2×4 toekick*

1×4 will cover

frame sits on

2×4 frame.

floor, inset

so cabinet

overhangs 4 in.

in front and on

sides.

Note: Toekick will be installed 4 in.

back from cabinet’s front edge.

A large, glass, angled wall cabinet turns a diffi-

cult storage space into a display asset.

18 Design

difficulties for the countertop, which must then be

Above a refrigerator you may choose to have a

angled as well—and therefore must be wider than

cabinet that fits snugly, with only 1 in. or 2 in. of

usual, which can be quite expensive. The space in

clearance. Or you may want more space, so you

the base cabinet corner can be made more acces-

can use the fridge top as a shelf.

sible with the addition of pullout shelving like that

shown on p. 178.

ISLANDS

If your kitchen is wider than 10 ft., you probably

CABINETS ABOVE APPLIANCES

have room for an island. Make sure there is ample

You will almost certainly need to design and build

space—at least 3 ft., and preferably 4 ft. or more—

two or more wall cabinets that fit above a range

on all sides, so there will not be a traffic bottleneck.

hood, refrigerator, or other appliance. If, like most

A simple island can be as narrow as 24 in. If you

people, you want the tops of all the cabinets to be

have more space, have the countertop overhang

at the same height, have the appliance or at least

to create a bar for eating. If you choose to include

its literature on hand when you design.

a cooktop, choose a model with its own downdraft

Many range hoods are only a few inches tall,

vent fan; you will need to run gas pipe or a 220-volt

while others with microwaves can be 16 in. or taller.

electrical line for the cooktop as well as ductwork

A range hood typically vents to the outside, which

through the floor.

probably means you’ll need to cut a hole in the

The cabinetry can mimic the rest of the kitchen, or

cabinet to make room for the ducts.

you may choose to create a one-of-a-kind statement

In this kitchen, wall cabinets of different heights fit above appliances, creating a useful and attractive custom kitchen.

D e s i g n 19

A kitchen island must be finished on all four sides. If the countertop overhangs by 12 in. or more, it can also be used as an eating station. This large island contains plenty of storage space.

COVE LIGHTING

If you leave space between the wall

cabinets and the ceiling, consider installing

cove lighting. This can be inexpensive

fluorescent or other fixtures; the fixtures

will not be visible. Cove lighting shines

gracefully up at the ceiling and bounces

off it to provide gentle ambient lighting for

the whole kitchen.

20 Design

CROWN MOLDING

If your cabinets do not butt up against a soffit,

topping them off with crown molding will give

the kitchen a unified look. Choose molding made

of the same material as the cabinets and in a

style that harmonizes with them. Crown molding

is usually easier to install on top of cabinets

than at the top of a wall, because you don’t have

to contend with the ceiling. Still, this is pretty

serious trimwork, so careful planning, making test

cuts, and an accurate chopsaw are needed.

A modest amount of open shelving can perk

up a kitchen’s appearance, adding interest to the

overall design.

piece. Side panels are often the most visible, while

the backside is often not as visible and can be

plainer. If the island is longer than 3 ft., it is usually best to make it out of two attached cabinets.

OPEN SHELVES

Open shelves make it mighty easy to get at stuff;

they open up a small space and they can enliven

a design by adding a new feature. Shelves with no

doors are, of course, easier to build than a cabinet

with doors. Many kitchens benefit from a bit of

Crown molding gives this kitchen an upscale feel

open shelving, but keep it limited: It can be difficult

and ties together a series of wall cabinets into a

to keep your kitchen display-worthy at all times.

unified whole.

D e s i g n 21

CHAPTER

tools

THIS BOOK shows you how to build a wide range

on fi rm surfaces and test their operations so they

of cabinets. Of course, if you have an extensive col-

will cut or bore accurately.

lection of pro-level tools and a large shop, work will

proceed smoothly and you will have many design

Tablesaw

options. But I’ll also show you how good-quality cabi-

An accurate tablesaw is the foundation of most

nets can be built with a modest collection of tools.

woodworking shops, enabling you to make straight

Buy the best-quality tools you can afford.

cuts in sheet goods quickly. A professional-quality

Sometimes the best value is in used high-quality

model is a great thing to have, but even a good-

tools rather than new middle- or low-quality tools.

quality contractor’s work-site tablesaw can be used

But always consult with woodworkers or knowledge-

for making cabinets.

able salespeople and take tools for a test-drive

A good tablesaw uses a 10-in. blade or larger.

whenever possible. Stationary tools should hum

Adjustments for height and bevel should operate

rather than rattle and should remain stable while

smoothly. Whether stationary or mounted on a

being used; fences and baseplates should be fl at

collapsible stand, it should rest fi rmly and not move

and even. Hand tools should be comfortable to hold,

while you cut.

easy to adjust, and feel solid with no loose parts.

The tables and supports surrounding a tablesaw

Unless the weather is predictably good enough

are as important as the saw itself. To make clean,

to set up outside, establish an indoor workshop that

long cuts, you should have plenty of outfeed

is as spacious as possible. Then organize it so it

support—a table or other support (some have

will be easy to keep clean. Assign often-used small

wheels) that will keep the sheet from falling when

tools to predictable and easy-to-reach shelves,

you fi nish the cut. To cut full-width sheets, have

racks, or drawers, so you spend as little time as

plenty of support on at least one side of the blade.

possible looking for them.

Give a tablesaw plenty of room in your shop, so

a helper can fi nish pulling a full sheet all the way

Stationary Shop Tools

through during a rip cut.

If you will use the tablesaw to make crosscuts,

Good-quality shop tools make many of the opera-

you could simply use the rip fence along with the

tions in this book easier. If you have room, put them

saw’s sliding miter gauge. But for greater ease and

where you can use them right away; if not, make

accuracy, build a sled, as shown on pp. 146–148.

them easy to access. Take the time to place them

22

This tablesaw has a large work surface with plenty of side and outfeed support as well as a solid rip fence, making it fairly easy to cut large sheets accurately.

This rip fence locks down securely.

Use a straightedge to check that the saw’s table

Its width gauge can be precisely

and any adjoining tables are nice and flat in all

adjusted so it can dependably and

directions.

accurately measure the width of

a cut.

To o l s 23

a dado blade set enables a tablesaw to cut

wide grooves.

tip Using the correct tablesaw blade for

the job will help you make smooth

cuts. For hardwood or softwood

lumber, use a combination blade

with at least 50 teeth. For plywood,

particleboard, and MDF, use a blade

with 80 teeth or more. If you plan

to cut melamine sheets, use a blade

a professional-quality tablesaw is a great tool

made specifically for that purpose.

for cabinetry. However, a modest contractor’s

tablesaw can also be used, as long as the fence

and crosscut guide are accurate, the table is flat,

Power miTer saw

and the blade is sharp. The saw shown here was

Also called a chopsaw, a power miter saw is a

used to make many of the projects in this book.

portable tool that deserves a permanent place in

your shop. A good power miter saw is essential

for achieving professional results because it easily

makes precise clean cuts in seconds.

A 10-in. saw handles all but the widest trim

boards; an 8-in. saw will limit the width of boards

you can cut. (Remember that cutting at 45° angles

calls for more cutting width.)

Grab the handle and move the saw from side

to side to be sure there will be no wobble while in

use. Equip it with a new or newly sharpened carbide-

tipped blade with at least 50 teeth.

A standard miter saw with no bevel option (which

is what some people mean by chopsaw) is ideal for

cutting rails and stiles, most crown molding, and

Firmly attached to a bench and fitted with an

adjoining table with fence, a standard power miter

saw becomes a serious shop tool.

24 Tools

EnsurE GrEat Cuts

It’s well worth your time to make sure your

saw makes precise cuts before you start

cutting into the wood you’ve bought for

cabinetmaking. To do so, cut a scrap piece

of wood with your miter saw, then flip one

of the cut sides over and press it against

the other cut. If the cuts are at an exact

90° angle, they should meet perfectly, as

shown at right.

Use the same test to be sure the saw

cuts at an exact right angle through the

board’s thickness: The ends should meet

perfectly along their thickness. If not,

consult your user’s manual and make

adjustments until your saw is reliably

accurate.

other trim pieces. For the projects in this book, a

standard saw is all you need, though some pros

use a bevel (or compound miter) feature to cut

crown molding.

Depending on its size, a sliding miter saw may

be able to crosscut 12-in.-wide sheets for wall

cabinets but not the wider sheets used for base

cabinets.

Bolt the miter saw firmly to a workbench, and

set up a table with a fence on at least one side, as

shown on the facing page.

radial-arm saw

A radial-arm saw occupies a groove midway be-

tween a tablesaw and a miter saw. Cheaper models

are wobbly and unreliable, but better radial-arm

saws can make accurate crosscuts up to 12 in.

or so in width. Test yours and make adjustments

Fitted with a flat table and a straight fence, a

before using it for cabinet work.

good-quality radial-arm saw is a useful addition to

a shop.

To o l s 25

roUTer and roUTer Table

There’s no need for a plunge router when making

kitchen cabinets. However, you do need a powerful

router—at least 21⁄4 hp. And it needs to be variable

speed because you must run it at slower speeds

for wider bits (for example, see p. 154). Most if not

all of your routing will be done on a router table.

A router is typically used for cutting rabbets and

dadoes. Using matched bit sets, it is indispensable

for cutting the special grooves in door rails and

stiles that are needed to fit them together and to fit

the panel as well (see chapter 8).

This sommerfeld router table, equipped with a

Some router tables can also be used for jointing—

Triton router, is more expensive than other brands

straightening the edges of boards so they can snug

but has a couple of features that make it easy

up against each other to make multiboard panels

to use: Router bits can be raised and lowered

(see p. 61).

using a crank from above and bits can be quickly

changed using a single wrench from above.

when making most

types of frame-and-

panel cabinet doors,

you need a variable-

speed router that is at

least 21⁄4 hp.

This shopmade router table is made with melamine, which is supported so it stays nice and flat. A router baseplate fits snugly in a cutout in the middle.

The fence, which is held in place with clamps, is simply made of straight pieces of wood and has a port for dust collection.

26 Tools

tip Some professional woodworking

shops have a tool called a shaper. A

typical shaper is fairly humongous

and can cut deep grooves in hard-

woods with ease, whereas sometimes

you need to make two or more passes

with a router table to complete a

groove. However, because the blade

on a shaper spins slowly, a shaper is

actually less useful for making the

smaller grooves often called for when

building kitchen cabinets; the higher

spinning speed of a router creates

This Kreg router table has some advantages over a home-

made one: The dust collector works better, especially with the smoother cuts. So most woodworkers

guard in place. The fence is easier to adjust, and it has a feature today choose a router over a shaper.

that allows you to use it for jointing.

ChanGinG Bits

For some operations—such as routing many types of rails and stiles for doors—you will need to change router bits often. With some router table setups this can be time-consuming and tedious, as you kneel under or hunch over the table to get at the nut.

Triton makes a router for which you can change the bits above the table. Use a crank to raise or lower the bit and use a single wrench—while pushing a locking mechanism under the table—to remove and replace a bit, as shown on the Sommerfeld table below left.

A lower-tech solution is to simply hang your router in place rather than screwing it down; in most cases, the router is heavy enough to stay put on its own. Now you can lift the router up and out to change the bits, as shown below right.

To o l s 27

Use a jointer to produce perfectly straight and

a jointer quickly adjusts to remove a little or a lot.

smooth board edges.

In most cases, you will not remove more than 1⁄8 in.

at a pass.

JoinTer

A jointer is essentially a power planer under-

OthEr OptiOns fOr JOintinG

mounted to a flat metal base. Use it to straighten

the edges of rough-cut boards or to remove bows

You may be able to do a fair amount

and other imperfections. When making hardwood

of jointing work using a tablesaw

raised door panels, you will need to glue up two

(pp. 146–148) or a router table (p. 61).

or more boards edge to edge, which can be done

However, if you have lots of hardwood

only if the edges are perfectly straight. To get those

jointing to do, a jointer is probably worth

perfectly straight edges, a jointer is needed.

However, you may not need a jointer. If, for

the investment.

instance, your doors will have plywood panels, there

Some old-fashioned woodworkers use

will be no need to glue boards together. And if you

long handplanes for jointing. If you have

carefully choose dimensional lumber (rather than

strong arms and not much jointing to do,

lumber with one or more rough edge), the edges

you may want to try this.

may be straight enough to make rails and stiles.

If you need to joint only the narrow

boards used for cabinet or door rails and

stiles, you may be able to use a thickness

planer; many can be adjusted to joint

edges of boards up to 6 in. wide.

28 Tools

ThicKness Planer

If your boards are not all smooth and of uniform

thickness—as is often the case with hardwoods—a

thickness planer is a very useful tool. Start feeding

a board into a thickness planer, and the tool will do

the rest, slowly pulling the board on rollers while its

cutters smooth one side at a time.

Many inexpensive portable thickness planers

work well and reduce thickness efficiently. And, as

mentioned in “Other Options for Jointing,” on the

facing page, many thickness planers can also be

used as a jointer for boards 6 in. or narrower.

drill Press

Many drill presses are surprisingly affordable—and

surprisingly versatile as well. With this tool you can

make holes that are sure to be straight, whereas

a 13-in. thickness planer is modestly priced and

hand drilling inevitably produces holes at various

can smooth and straighten individual boards. If

angles to the face of the board. Use a drill press

you need to plane wider glued-up panels, a much

for boring the partial-depth holes needed for

more expensive planer is needed.

Euro-style hinges and to make a series of holes for

adjustable shelving.

tip

To position one or a series of holes at the correct

distance from a board’s end, you can quickly modify

Many inexpensive thickness planers

a drill press’s fence by placing a board of the cor-

can handle boards up to 13 in. wide.

rect width against it. Or you may choose to build an

That works for most individual boards.

adjustable fence of your own, using a board held in

However, if you glue up two or more

place with clamps.

boards for a door panel, you may

end up with a panel that is too wide

even a modest

for your machine. Unfortunately,

drill press is

wider thickness planers jump in price

easy to use and

dramatically—from hundreds to

ensures straight

thousands of dollars. Unless you have

holes.

that kind of money or chance upon

a good used wide thickness planer,

the solution is usually to glue up very

carefully, so the edges line up as close

to perfect as you can get. Then use hand

tools—a power sander, a scraper, and/

or a hand sander—to smooth the panel.

See p. 150 for this operation.

To o l s 29

dUsT collecTion

Cutting, sanding, and routing create plenty of

sawdust, some of it in the form of chips and large

particles, and lots of it as a fi ne dust that settles

over everything, worms its way through doors

and windows, and gets into all available nooks

and crannies. Fortunately, there are a number of

dust-collection options that can greatly cut down

on the powdery stuff.

The best dust collection is a large two-stage sys-

tem with a powerful motor, which takes up plenty of

space and costs plenty of money. Ideally it should

be hooked up to solid rather than fl exible ducting

and should have a number of ducts that extend

permanently to the ports of various shop tools. If

you have the room and money for such a system,

by all means get one.

Smaller and cheaper systems can also remove

signifi cant portions of dust. Some types attach to

This inexpensive

dust collection

system attaches

to a shop vacuum,

which you proba-

bly already own.

a bandsaw may be mounted on a stand, as

shown, or it can rest on a workbench.

bandsaw

Curved cuts are occasionally called for when

making kitchen cabinets, open shelves, or adjoining

trim pieces. You can usually cut these items using

a handheld jigsaw, but a bandsaw ensures that the

curved cut will be at a right angle to the face of the

board—something that can be diffi cult to achieve

with a jigsaw. A bandsaw also makes it easier to

follow curved lines with the blade, which is fully

visible as you work. A bandsaw is not necessary for

most cabinetry, but you may be surprised at the low

price of many models, and it is a useful addition to

a shop.

30 Tools

This dust collector

has a feature that

cleans the fi lter with

the push of a button,

so you rarely need

to remove it. It has a

powerful motor that

sucks away up to 99%

of the dust. You can

wheel it near the tool

or keep it in one place

and use a long hose.

a vent fan like this shuttles dusty air to

the outside.

the shop vacuum that you already own, while others

have their own motors. Cyclone units work nearly

as well as two-stage systems to capture small dust

particles. With a less-expensive system, you will

probably need to move the hose to attach it to each

individual tool.

Handheld Tools

Handheld tools for cabinetry don’t need to be

top-of-the-line professional models, but avoid the

cheapest tools. Mid-range tools sold at a home

center will almost always do the job. When possible,

try out a tool fi rst or ask someone knowledgeable

a good mid-priced

before making a purchase.

circular saw and a

jigsaw, once equipped

circUlar saw

with the right blades

Woodworkers most often use a 71⁄4-in. circular saw

and operated with

to make rough cuts in sheet goods before precisely

care, can make many

cutting with a tablesaw. If the circular saw cuts

of the cuts needed for

cleanly and you use a reliable rip guide, you can

cabinet work.

even use it to make fi nish cuts in sheets (see

p. 55). Equip a circular saw with a fi nish-cutting before cutting, check

that a circular saw’s

blade that has at least 40 teeth; for cutting mela-

blade is straight to the

mine, use a blade made especially for that.

baseplate. If not, it can

be easily adjusted.

To o l s 31

drill

A 14-volt, 18-volt, or 20-volt cordless drill comes

in handy for boring pilot and pocket holes and for

driving screws. It should have a charger and an

extra battery, so you can always be ready to bore

or drive. A quick-change magnetic setup allows

you to change easily from boring to driving and

holds screws on the bit as you work. For attaching

cabinets with screws, have combination counter-

sink/counterbore bits as well as square-drive or

outfit your cordless drill with a quick-change

Phillips® bits.

driver to fit all the screws you will use. Square-drive

trim-head screws are the most common type used.

Power sanders

A random-orbit sander is the sanding tool of choice

among many woodworkers. It has a pad that allows

you to quickly change sandpapers as you prog-

DOwEl JiG

ress though the grits—60-grit or 80-grit paper for

One way to invisibly attach two boards is

removing a good deal of material, then medium

with dowels, short wood pegs that fit into

grits (100 and 120), and finally 180-grit or 220-grit

matching holes in both boards. A dowel jig

paper for final smoothing. A random-orbit sander

can get into edges and crannies with ease and will

helps you drive straight and perfectly

not dig into the wood, which produces divots.

aligned dowel holes in two boards. There

If you make raised panels that are too wide for

are many types of dowel jigs. Choose one

your thickness planer, a belt sander can be useful

that will allow you to drill two or more holes

for initial smoothing. Use it carefully and hold it flat

at a time in a board, to minimize setup time.

to the surface, to avoid making waves in the panel.

For information on how to make a dowel

joint with minimal tools, see pp. 75–77.

a random-orbit sander handles most jobs, but

occasionally you may need a belt sander for

heavy-duty sanding.

32 Tools

hanDy tapE MEasurE

This FastCap® woodworker’s tape has

highly visible markings for sixteenths of an

inch—dimensions that often come up during

cabinetmaking. It has an erasable notepad on the

To be ready for any smoothing or evening job,

side, and even incorporates a pencil sharpener.

maintain a stock of various sandpapers and sand-

ing blocks as well as a plane and a scraper.

hand sanders, Planes,

and scraPers

Many woodworkers use hand sanders for the final

smoothing because it gives them more control

and they can move with the grain. Use a drywall-

type sander for large, flat surfaces, a smaller block

sander for smaller flat areas, and a sponge sander

or simply a handheld piece of sandpaper for curves

and niches.

A simple wood scraper is surprisingly effective at

removing material and initially smoothing uneven

boards, and a handplane is useful for shaving the

edges of frame pieces.

Power nailers

Hand-nailing is slow work; driving trim-head screws

is easier. You can quickly secure cabinet cases with

wood glue and a power trim nailer or stapler. A brad

nailer drives nails long enough for rabbeted joints.

a trim or brad nailer drives screws that are

nearly invisible. A stapler’s fasteners are definitely

visible, but they’re strong.

To o l s 33

sqUares

You will continually check for square as you work,

because driving even one fastener while a cabinet

is misaligned will make it permanently imperfect.

In addition to a framing square, keep on hand a

small and large Speed® Square to check quickly

for square, a sliding combination square to check in

tight spots and to make quick measurements, and a

T-bevel for capturing and marking odd angles.

biscUiT Joiner

Also called a plate joiner, a biscuit joiner slices

a collection of squares is handy for keeping

slots in the edges or faces of mating boards. The

things at 90° or 45°. A T-bevel helps duplicate

slots and fitted biscuits are glued and clamped

other angles.

together, producing an invisible and very strong

joint. Because biscuits are fairly wide, you can use

them only for boards 3 in. or wider.

PocKeT-hole Jigs

Pocket-hole joinery (see pp. 64–65) has become

very popular among woodworkers because it

produces strong joints quickly. Professional cabinet

shops have dedicated pocket-hole machines that

produce multiple slots in an instant, but more mod-

est jigs, like those made by Kreg, enable you to cut

slots and assemble boards almost as quickly.

clamPs

a biscuit joiner cuts slots for inserting biscuits,

Clamps are essential to cabinetry. You will use

which make for a strong invisible joint.

them to hold together a number of doors or drawer

faces at a time as well as to make face frames and

hold cabinet cases together while you fasten them.

So have a collection of various types and sizes

on hand. Pipe clamps are most commonly used,

but bar clamps, squeeze clamps, and others often

come in handy as well.

There are various types of pocket-hole jigs. All

make it easy to fasten boards and sheets invisibly

yet strongly.

34 Tools

many woodworkers find pipe clamps to be the

The Kreg automaxx™ bench Klamp system™

most useful clamps in their shop. Keep a variety of

holds boards down firmly while you work. The Auto-

other clamps on hand so you can quickly handle

Adjust feature means you don’t have to adjust the

most any situation.

clamp for different thicknesses of boards.

Finish sPrayers

already own a small compressor. The gun itself can

An inexpensive airless sprayer can work well for

cost $100 to $200. Some professionals report that

painting walls or fences, but its spray is not smooth

their LVLP sprayer achieves great-looking finishes

enough for cabinetry. You want a sprayer that ade-

for far less cost than an HVLP.

quately atomizes the finish material.

One way to get that perfectly stipple-free finish is

with a high-volume, low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer.

tip

Conversion-type HVLPs must connect to a power-

Some finishes can be applied by hand,

ful (80 gal. or more) compressor; a small compres-

either with a roller, brush, or rag. The

sor for a set of nail guns will not power it. Another

results can have professional-quality

type of HPLV sprayer uses a turbine, which is a

smoothness or a homemade charm,

series of fans that moves air through the spray gun.

depending on the method (see p. 165).

These setups tend to be fairly expensive.

A low-volume, low-pressure (LVLP) sprayer is

a much less-expensive option, especially if you

an inexpensive lVlP sprayer can be hooked up

an hVlP sprayer with a turbine unit is easy to

to a small compressor.

use but a bit pricey.

To o l s 35

CHAPTER

wood

3

CABINET CASES and some doors and drawer

faces are made of sheet goods, such as plywood,

particleboard, MDF, and melamine-coated sheets. If

a case will have a face frame, hardwood is used for

that. Hardwood is also used for the frames around

doors and drawer fronts. Thin 1⁄4-in. plywood can

be used for door panels. If door panels are raised,

they are usually made of glued-up hardwood

boards, though MDF can be used if the door will

be painted. All but oversize drawer bodies have

bottoms made of 1⁄4-in. plywood; drawer sides can

be made of 1⁄2-in.-thick hardboard or a high-quality

plywood (such as Baltic birch) that is 1⁄2 in. thick.

The wood you use largely determines the look and

quality of the cabinets, so spend some time choos-

ing hardwoods and sheet goods that look great

without busting your budget.

most hardwood plywood has a very thin hard-

wood veneer on each side and interior plies made

of softer woods.

Sheet Goods

The sheets you will use to build cabinet cases

the back side of this

and perhaps doors are composite, made of wood

sheet of plywood has

veneers, wood particles, and melamine veneers.

some blemishes as well

as a fi lled knot.

Most but not all sheets are 4 ft. wide by 8 ft. long.

PlywOOd

Plywood is composed of veneer sheets, or plies,

cross-laminated with alternating grain patterns.

This produces a material that is very strong for its

weight and thickness (you will rarely see a karate

demonstration that uses plywood, because it’s

36

nearly impossible to break cleanly). Standard ply-

wood panels are made of three, five, or seven plies.

EdgE-Bandings

Plywood does not shrink or break like standard

lumber, but it can warp along its face if not stacked

Make sure you can get edge-banding for

on a flat surface or attached firmly.

the plywood you choose. Iron-on banding

Plywood used for cabinetry usually has a hard-

is easiest to install. This store has a wide

wood veneer on each side. The face veneer is a

selection, but if you aren’t able to find such

good deal thinner than the core veneers, which are

a selection at a store near you check for

made of less-expensive wood. Hardwood plywood

is available with a face veneer in nearly any wood

online sources.

species, meaning it can match most solid hard-

woods in appearance.

You can sometimes couple less-expensive ply-

wood with boards of another species. In particular,

birch plywood can look much like maple and can be

stained to look like cherry and other hardwoods.

Other cOres

Traditional plywood, often called “veneer-core”

plywood, is fairly costly (which is why so many

inexpensive cabinets are made of cheaper particle-

board). In an effort to cut costs, many manufactur-

ers make plywood that has an MDF core. You can

also buy plywood with a particleboard core as well

as plywood with a core that is partly wood veneer

and partly MDF.

cherry

veneer

with an

MDF core.

tip

Even if your plywood and

hardwood are the same species,

they may not look the same;

colors within a species can vary

considerably. Examine your

sheets and boards carefully

before buying.

Wo o d 37

MDF-core plywood sheets look the same on the

outside as standard plywood and are available in a

wide range of hardwood veneers. However, MDF is

very heavy. Sheets made with a particleboard core

are often the least expensive. They weigh less than

MDF but are also less strong.

PlywOOd grades, cuts, and

matching OPtiOns

the grades. Most plywood has one good side,

which is graded with the letter A, B, or C, and a

back side, which is graded with the number 1, 2, 3,

or 4. So the top grade is A-1 and a middle grade

board may be B-2. Typically, A-grade sheets have

no knots—only tiny splits or burls; B grade has

small knots and slightly visible burls and splits; and

C grade has visible knots, splits, and burls.

the cut. Higher-grade top plies are cut in slices

from the log. Depending on the orientation of the

cut in relation to the wood grain, the result may be

rotary-cut sheet with no seams.

very narrow grain lines or a more variegated ap-

pearance, with wider grain lines in a wavy, pointed

Baltic Birch Plywood

While most hardwood plywoods have inner

veneers made of softwood, all the plies in

Baltic birch plywood are made of birch. Also,

Baltic birch is made with no voids, so wherever

you cut it there will be no little holes. This

makes Baltic birch extra strong, and its cut

edges, once sanded, are quite attractive.

Many cabinetmakers use 1⁄2-in. Baltic birch

to make the sides of drawer bodies. The alternative—1⁄2-in.-thick hardwood—is more likely to warp and split. Drawer sides are generally narrow, so a single sheet of Baltic birch may be all you need for all your drawers.

Baltic birch is made in Europe and sometimes comes in metric sizes. But unlike most plywood, which is slightly thinner than its advertised thickness, 1⁄2-in. Baltic birch is a true 1⁄2 in. thick. Sheets are available in 5-ft. by 5-ft. and 4-ft. by 8-ft. sizes.

38 Wood

tip

If you do not have a local

Plywood cuts

store that specializes

in hardwood plywood,

•   rotary cut. The log is centered on

you can order it through

a lathe and turned against a broad

a lumberyard or home

cutting knife set into the log at a slight

center.

angle.

•   Quarter slicing. The slicing is made

perpendicular to the annual growth

rings of the tree. This creates a straight

grain appearance.

•   lengthwise slicing. This is done

from a board of flatsawn lumber rather

than from a log. A variegated figure is

created with this slice.

•   Plain slicing. By slicing parallel to

the center of the log, a raised “cathe-

dral effect” is formed by the innermost

growth rings.

rotary-cut flitches randomly placed.

pattern. The illustrations in “Plywood Cuts”

above show the effects created by various slicing

orientations.

The least-expensive veneers are rotary cut,

meaning the log is turned as if on a lathe against a

wide cutting knife. The result is a veneer with wild

grain patterns running in various directions.

matching options. Slice-cut veneers are always

less than 4 ft. wide, so a sheet will have seams

where the veneer sections, called “flitches,” meet.

On a book-matched sheet (as shown in the near

right photo), the flitches face each other to create

a mirror image. If a sheet is slip matched (as shown

in the far right photo), the flitches are side by side

in a repeating pattern. In less-expensive sheets,

hickory veneer with

slip-matched birch,

flitches might be placed randomly.

book-matched flitches.

with figures that seem

to march in step.

Wo o d 39

mdF that is 3⁄4 in. thick is often used for cabinet

Particleboard is inexpensive and fragile, but can

cases and doors that will be painted.

be useful in certain circumstances.

mdF

ers can anchor Euro-type hinges securely to it). It

Medium-density fiberboard is made of wood fibers

is easily chipped and will swell if exposed to water.

held together with wax and resin. It comes in 49-in.

Particleboard can be used for cabinet parts that will

by 97-in. sheets and is brown-gray in color. MDF

not be exposed to moisture but should not be used

is inexpensive, easy to cut and shape, and holds

elsewhere.

screws fairly well, so it is often used for cabinet

doors. As noted, some types of plywood have an

melamine sheets

MDF or partial MDF core.

Melamine is a hard, man-made product similar to

There are some disadvantages, however: MDF is

the laminates used for countertops, although not

very heavy, which can make it difficult to work with,

as strong. An inexpensive alternative to plywood,

and although it is fairly hard, it tends to chip more

melamine-coated particleboard (MCP) has a hard

easily than plywood. In addition, if it becomes wet,

surface that does not need to be painted or fin-

it can swell like a sponge with unattractive results.

ished and that resists moisture well. However, if the

Still, many cabinetmakers use MDF; if you use it,

melamine coating is damaged or if moisture gets

take care to keep it well sealed with paint.

into the unprotected edges of the sheet, swelling

will occur. Melamine sheets break as easily as plain

ParticlebOard

particleboard sheets.

Particleboard, also called chipboard, is made from

Melamine sheets are often used in cabinet-

wood chips and sawdust pressed into sheets with a

making, but special methods should be used and

resin. It is the least expensive of materials that can

you’ll need a melamine-cutting sawblade. Because

be used for cabinet cases.

melamine is too smooth to be glued to other

Particleboard is hard, but not strong. It doesn’t

surfaces, sheet edges should be rabbeted before

hold screws firmly (though newer types of fasten-

attaching them together.

40 Wood

some melamine mimics the look of natural wood,

though imperfectly.

rEconstitutEd-wood shEEts

the mcP sheets

Reconstituted-wood veneer is made of natural rotary-

shown here are white, but mela-

mine is available in a range of colors.

cut wood veneer (often spruce, West African obeche, or

poplar) that is colored with water-based dyes. The sheet

cores may be made of MDF, chipboard, or wood plies.

Hardwoods

These veneers come in a wide range of colors,

Many if not all of a cabinet’s visible parts are

patterns, and even textures. In many cases, the result is

typically made of hardwood: the door and drawer

an uncanny resemblance to natural hardwood species,

frames; the door and drawer panels, if they are

with a durable, easy-to-clean surface that needs no

raised; and the cabinet face frame, if there is one.

finishing or future refinishing. Often these sheets are

Crown molding is also often made of hardwood

less expensive than the hardwoods they imitate.

molding, unless it will be painted, in which case

MDF may be a better choice. (Other options are

to make doors out of painted MDF, melamine, or

reconstituted-wood sheets.) The wood and finish

you choose will define the look of the cabinets.

selecting lumber

Unless you plan to paint your cabinets, you’ll want

to choose individual boards so as to get grain

patterns and hues that harmonize. A typical home

center or lumberyard may have a modest selection

of poplar and oak, possibly maple, and perhaps a

few more species. Their boards will likely be in

standard dimensions (1×2, 1×3, 1×4, and so on)

and in standard lengths (6 ft., 8 ft., 10 ft., and 12 ft.), Wo o d 41

a hardwood specialty store may have as many

as 25 wood species and subspecies on display.

PrEcut comPonEnts

Some hardwood suppliers carry products

and all four sides and edges will be smooth. As

that are precut and/or predrilled to save

long as they are straight (check them carefully),

these boards can be easy to work with.

you time. If these are the right size for your

Other lumberyards may have a wider selection,

projects, they’re well worth the extra cost.

and yards that specialize in hardwoods will have

the widest array of wood types—often more than

20 species and subspecies. Their boards may be in

random lengths and widths, and one or two of the

edges may be rough cut, meaning you will have to

rip-cut them on a good tablesaw.

Strolling the aisles of a hardwood yard can be

fascinating and inspiring. But with greater choice

comes greater work in selecting your wood.

•   First choose both the species and perhaps the

subspecies—for example, white oak. (You’ll

probably want to choose the finish at this point,

so you know the final appearance.)

these precut drawer these plywood

•   Then, depending on availability, you may need

to choose the cut—for instance, quartersawn

sides are made of

sheets are cut

Baltic birch, with

to width and pre-

or plainsawn.

precut grooves for

drilled with holes for

•   Finally, choose individual boards that are all

drawer bottoms.

adjustable shelving.

similar in color and grain; some species can vary

quite a bit.

42 Wood

wood must BE dry

Wood that is not sufficiently dried has a tendency to cup and warp, and maybe even crack or split. A moisture content of 8% to 14% is ideal for projects used indoors in rooms with normal levels of humidity. (If for some reason air humidity is above 75%, then the boards should have higher moisture

content.) If you are buying from a reputable dealer or if

the lumber is certified as kiln-dried with a label indicating moisture content, then your wood should be good to install.

this pinless moisture tester

But to be sure, or to test wood that you are unsure of,

indicates a board’s dryness

consider buying and using a moisture meter. Older meters

level without poking holes in

it. According to the tester, this

had pins that poked into the wood, but newer meters do not board has some drying to do.

mar the board as you test it.

tip

Purchasing will be further complicated by the

A tree’s outer sapwood is often much

variety of available widths and lengths. For instance,

lighter in color than its inner heartwood.

you may be able to get four door stiles that are

Sapwood is also often less stable and

32 in. long and 2 in. wide out of a board that is

more prone to warping, swelling, and

65 in. long and 41⁄2 in. wide. Be prepared to make

splitting. Some boards are all sapwood

calculations at the store.

or all heartwood, and others are a

combination of the two.

hardwOOd grades

Grades used for hardwoods are different from

those used for softwoods. Here are some of the

classifications you will find:

Fas. This stands for firsts and seconds and is

the highest grade. It applies to boards 6 in. by 8 ft.

and larger. Both faces of an FAS board are free of

knots and other defects.

F1F. Also called “FAS one face,” these boards

meet FAS standards on one face only; the other

face is no. 1 common or better.

selects. This is almost the same as F1F but

with a smaller minimum board length—those 4 in.

by 6 ft. and larger.

some boards bought at a hardwood store may

have rough edges like this.

Wo o d 43

Prime. This is a more general grade but refers

Though it can be stained, poplar is often used for

to boards of various sizes that are clear and free of

cabinetry that will be painted.

visible defects.

hickory. Many people love hickory for its flam-

no. 1 common. Sometimes called cabinet grade

boyant beauty. Hickory has a wide grain and wide

because it meets minimum standards for cabinet

color variations, making individual boards memora-

doors, this refers to boards 3 in. by 4 ft. and larger.

bly unique in appearance.

Both faces of the board may have tiny knots and

Hickory is usually expensive and is the heaviest

other very small blemishes, such as streaks and burls.

and hardest of the hardwoods. It can be difficult to

no. 2 common. These boards have more knots

work with: It tends to split and/or produce tearout

and blemishes. Use them if you find the knots and

as you cut it. It reacts to changes in air humidity by

blemishes attractive.

swelling or shrinking, but this can be controlled if

you finish it before building.

hardwOOd sPecies

red oak. This is one of the most abundant and

Though some people like the old-fashioned look

least expensive of the hardwoods and has long

of softwoods like pine or cedar, most cabinets are

been popular. Colors range from light tan to reddish

made of hardwood. Individual boards vary, but here

or pinkish brown. It is often lightly stained to pro-

are the general characteristics of some of the most

duce a “honey oak” appearance but can be stained

common hardwoods:

darker for a much richer tone. It is medium-hard,

Poplar. This is often the least expensive of the

easy to cut and fasten, and is reliably stable, effec-

hardwoods and also one of the softest, which

tively resisting warping and splitting.

makes it easy to work with. Poplar often exhib-

Red oak has a coarse, pronounced grain as well

its wide grain with a greenish or yellowish tinge.

as open pores. Expect to spend a good deal of time

sanding before you apply finish. Gel stains often

work best because they fill as they stain.

white oak. Less abundant and more expensive

than red oak, white oak has colors that range from

nearly white to fairly dark brown. It has more varia-

tion in grain patterns, which can be pronounced in

some boards. Like red oak, it is hard but still easy

to work with. It is less coarse grained than red oak,

making it easier to stain to a variety of tones.

alder. Most commonly available as red alder, this

species is a relatively soft hardwood. Its sapwood

can be light brown, but the heartwood is much

darker, with red or yellow tinges, as seen in the

top photo on the facing page. The grain is straight

and uniform in texture. Alder is fairly easy to cut

and fasten and can be stained to closely resemble

walnut or cherry.

walnut. Walnut is sometimes creamy white, but

is best known for its dark browns, which range

from chocolate to purplish in tone. Often the lighter

From left: poplar, hickory, red oak, and white oak.

sapwood is steamed to darken it. Grains vary from

44 Wood

straight to very wavy, and some boards are stun-

ningly curvy and swirling. Unfortunately, it can be

very expensive.

Walnut is medium-hard and is easy to cut and

fasten. It accepts stain readily and will remain stable

and warp-free as long as it is dry when installed.

maple. There are actually a number of maple

subspecies with different characteristics. Hard

maple is very light colored, with a smooth texture

and wide grain. It is extremely hard, making it a

challenge to cut and mill, and it can be quite

expensive.

Soft maple has more variation in color and grain

and it is also less expensive and easier to work with.

Figured maple comes in several different types

and has something of a cult following among wood

lovers. The most famous figures are bird’s-eye

maple, with a pattern of tiny, swirling dots that look

a bit like eyes, and tiger maple, with stripes that run

across the grain.

cherry. Lots of people, including many wood-

workers, are in love with cherry. It has a beautiful

grain, with colors ranging from a very light sapwood

From left: alder, walnut, maple, and cherry.

to a much darker heartwood that exhibits subtle

oranges or, well, cherry reds.

Cherry is very hard, but provided your blade is

sharp, it is not difficult to cut and shape. It will stay

stable and warp-free. Unfortunately, it is expensive.

wOOd grains

Wood variations are further enhanced by the way

the wood is cut from the tree, which determines

the board’s wood grain, as shown in “Anatomy

of Wood” on p. 46. With some species—oak, for example—the visual difference between grain types

is dramatic, while with others, such as cherry, the

difference is less pronounced.

Boards with vertical grain are sometimes called

quartersawn, and have straight grain lines that run

close together. Flatsawn, or flat-grain boards have

wavy patterns with a soft, arrowlike appearance.

Many boards are somewhere between and can be

called medium-grained.

From left: flat grain, medium grain, and vertical

grain.

Wo o d 45

anatOmy OF wOOd

Flat Grain

Flat grain

has a wavy,

flamelike

grain.

Vertical Grain

Vertical grain appears as

a series of parallel lines.

It is also called quartersawn.

tip

The tighter and straighter the grain, the more

stable the board; that’s an important consideration

If you have access to a sawmill,

when dealing with softwoods and boards used out-

you can get great prices and

doors. But unless your hardwood boards are wider

have some fun looking through

than 4 in. or are high in moisture content, the grain

stacks of boards. However, the

pattern is mostly a cosmetic issue.

boards may not be graded, and

you’ll need to check each board

blemishes Or character?

closely for lumb

The next few pages show some common visual ele-

er defects and

ments often found on boards. Some are definitely

moisture content. If the boards

blemishes, some are definitely attractive features,

are roughsawn, you’ll need to

and others may be one or the other, depending on

spend plenty of time thickness

your opinion. Interesting grain patterns are often

planing, jointing, and sanding

generally referred to as “figuring.”

to prepare the boards for use.

46 Wood

lumBEr dEfEcts

•   If a board exhibits twist, you may be

able to use short pieces of it, but a

pronounced twist is very difficult to

straighten.

•   A narrow board with a light cup can

be surface-planed flat, but cupping is

difficult to straighten in hardwoods.

•   If a board has a slight bow, it

can often be straightened dur-

ing installation. Or you can use a

Twist

Cup

Bow or crook

jointer to plane a side of the board

straight. A more pronounced bow,

called a crook, usually cannot be

straightened.

•   If end splits are very short, they can

be cut off. If a longer split is near the

center of the board, you can rip-cut

the board along the split line, result-

ing in two narrow boards that will be

usable.

•   surface checks are usually a cos-

End splits

Surface

checks

metic problem, but one that probably

cannot be sanded away.

•   Boards that wave visibly along their

faces are very difficult to straighten

or plane smooth.

•   You may be able to cut around

knots or you may appreciate the

look of small knots. If knots are large

and porous, or even produce holes,

the board is probably not worth

Wave

Knots and

buying.

knotholes

Wo o d 47

burl is a darkened twist or swirl

Quartersawn figuring. When

wane is bark or the rounded

that is almost a knot—but not

wood—especially oak—is quarter-

place where bark used to be. It

quite.

sawn, this type of figuring may

must be cut away.

result.

grub holes. Whether caused by

sticker stain, caused by the small

mineral streaks may be greenish

worms or not, these holes may be

pieces of wood placed between

or charcoal in color. They may run

1⁄16 in. to 1⁄4 in. wide, usually too

drying wood, may be gray or

along the grain or may be gener-

deep to be sanded away.

brown, or lighter in color than the

ally blotchy.

rest of the wood. A dark blemish

may be difficult to stain away; for

a light mark, stain or bleach the

surrounding area to match.

48 Wood

Pith is the soft core in the center

a combination of dark heartwood

gum streaks. Cherry boards with

of a tree.

and lighter-colored sapwood can

scattered gum streaks are often

be found in many boards.

sought after for their beauty.

a milling error can create a

transport marks. Wrapping

Peck holes. These may or may

rough spot where marks run

boards with straps and transport-

not be made by woodpeckers,

sideways to the grain. Of course,

ing them can create dark stains

and may or may not be con-

the deeper the marks, the more

and pockmarks in the boards.

sidered attractive. They usually

sanding you will need to do.

Check the other side of the board

cannot be sanded away.

to see if it looks better.

Wo o d 49

CHAPTER

4basic building methods

THE CHAPTERS that follow will show plenty of

chapter and go on to the instructions for particular

techniques and tips for building specifi c types of

projects. But it doesn’t hurt to brush up on the

kitchen wall and base cabinets as well as bath-

basics and you may fi nd a new tip or two to help

room vanities. This chapter gets you started with

you save time and money.

some fundamental methods for several of the most

Before you get going on a project, take the time

common procedures: cutting sheets and boards;

to get organized so work will be more pleasure than

edge-banding; rabbeting; and assembling with

pain. Stack your lumber and sheet goods so they

nails, screws, and pocket screws. These are meth-

will stay straight. Arrange your tools and fasteners

ods you’ll use over and over again.

so you can reach for them almost without thinking.

You may already be well versed in many of these

And get your dust collection and cleaning products

techniques, in which case you could skip this

lined up, so you can move seamlessly from one tool

to another without hassle. Work in an unhurried

manner, double-checking measurements and think-

ing through the next few steps. That way, you can

enjoy the process of making beautiful cabinets.

Measuring and Marking

A well-built project must start with cut lines that are

precisely correct. Measuring and marking are not

diffi cult, but it’s easy to make mistakes. Work on

developing good measuring and marking habits, so

you won’t have to recut or even throw out miscut

pieces.

Measuring with a tape is often the only option.

But wherever possible, measure by holding a board

in place and marking it for the cut. When you cut

multiple pieces to the same dimension, use the fi rst

board or sheet as a guide for marking and cutting

the others, rather than using a tape measure for

1 To mark for a cut, hook the tape on one end of

the board, pull taut, and draw a V shape, with

each cut.

its point at the exact dimension for the cut.

50

2 Hold your pencil tip on the point of the V, and

slide a square over the board and against the

pencil. Draw a line for the cut. To ensure that you

will not cut the wrong side of the line, mark an X

on the waste side.

tip

A tape measure’s tip slides back

3 Many carpenters prefer to mark with a knife.

This eliminates the need for erasing pencil

lines and it helps keep the cut clean of tearout (as

and forth by about 1⁄8 in., which is

long as you consistently cut to the side of the line

its thickness. This sliding ensures

rather than through it).

that your measurements will be

the same whether you hook it

onto the end of a board and pull

or press it against a wall or other

board for an inside measurement.

Cutting Sheet Goods

To make a number of cabinets, you’ll want to cut

sheets accurately and quickly. A tablesaw with a

large table is the ideal tool, but surprisingly good

results can be had with a circular saw as well.

Cutting with a tablesaw

If you are experienced at cutting sheet goods

and have a large table that supports a full sheet

throughout the cut—and perhaps a helper as well—

you could simply make finish cuts with a single

pass. However, even many professionals find that

approach risky. It’s easy for the large sheet to go off

course, which can ruin the cut. So for most of us it’s

a good idea to first cut the sheet roughly and a bit

1 Most factory edges are nice and straight,

but some have waves and bumps that can

larger than needed, and then make finish cuts with

make your cut go awry. Quickly check with a

the resulting smaller pieces.

straightedge.

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 51

2 Rough-cut the sheet 1⁄2 in. or so larger than

it needs to be. You can do this with a circular

saw or the tablesaw. To ensure that you will not

place the rough-cut side against the fence for the

final cut (Step 3), draw a wavy line along it.

3 Make the final cut on your tablesaw. Use push

tools to keep your hands away from the blade.

If possible, push through the cut with one stroke;

tip

stopping and starting often creates unevenness in

It can help to have someone hold

the cut.

the sheet at the other end, especially

if you do not have outfeed support

for a long cut. On the other hand, it

can also hinder: If the helper pulls

aggressively while you push, the

tip

sheet can move away from the fence,

If you have a small shop and

which will make the cut inaccurate.

handling full-size sheets will

Have the helper gently support the

be difficult to manage, have

other end of the sheet through most

the lumberyard or home center

of the cut, and perhaps pull it only

make the rough cuts for you.

for the last 6 in. or so.

The cost is usually minimal.

52 Basic Building Methods

MiniMizing TearouT

It’s vital that your sheet good cuts be smooth and free

of tearout—the series of small splinters that sometimes

occurs on the top side of the cut. Tearout occurs most

often when you are making a crosscut (cutting across

the grain), but it can also happen during rip cuts (cutting a

with the grain). When cutting melamine sheets, MDF, or

particleboard, tearout is always a possibility.

Make some test cuts in scrap pieces before cutting

the real thing. If you get tearout, here are some steps

to take:

•   Use a sharp blade that is recommended for your

plywood or melamine. Adjust its height so the teeth

rise only partway above the sheet; if the full teeth are

B

above the sheet, tearout is more likely (A).

•   Install a zero-clearance insert in the tablesaw (B).

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 53

Typically, you will lower the blade below the table, at-

tach the insert, turn on the saw, and slowly raise the

blade to cut through the insert. As a result, the sheet

will be supported tightly on each side as you cut,

which reduces tearout.

•   If you are cutting with a circular saw, you can make a zero-tolerance baseplate. Adjust the blade all the way

C

up, so it doesn’t protrude below the baseplate. Attach

a piece of MDF to the baseplate by drilling counter-

sunk holes and fastening with flat-head bolts. With

the baseplate well supported, loosen the depth-

adjusting nut, turn on the saw, and slowly lower the

blade so it cuts through the MDF (C).

•   Press a strip of painters’ tape over the cut line and cut through it (D). This holds the wood fibers in place

during the cut.

D

Cutting with a CirCular saw

Some cabinetmakers would be horrified by the

thought of cutting with a circular saw, but many

cabinets have been made this way. Test your saw

on scrap pieces to be sure it makes reliable cuts

that do not waver; most mid- to upper-level circular

saws will work.

2 Use an inexpensive straightedge tool to

ensure a straight long cut. This tool screws

together to form an 8-ft.-long guide.

1 Measure the distance from the edge of the

baseplate to the blade (above) and transfer

this measurement to the board. Make one mark for

the actual cut and another mark for the position of

the guide (right).

54 Basic Building Methods

oTher CirCular Saw guiDeS

Many carpenters produce reliable

crosscuts using a Speed Square as a

guide; the large square shown in the top

photo below works better because it is

easier to hold firmly in place as you cut.

With a bit of practice you can also make

straight rip cuts using a rip guide, as

shown in the bottom photo below.

3 Support the sheet (as shown in “Other Circular

Saw Guides” at right) so it will not fall away

when you finish the cut. Position yourself so you

can make the cut in one pass, without stopping

and starting. With the baseplate pressed against

the guide and held flat on the board, cut the sheet.

tip

Instead of measuring for the

position of the cutting guide, you

could first cut freehand along your

cut line for an inch or so. Turn

off the saw but leave it in position

then slide the guide over to meet

the baseplate and clamp it. Clamp

the other end the same distance

from the edge of the board.

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 55

Crosscutting with

ChopSaw guiDe

a Miter Saw

An aftermarket system like the one shown

Adjusted for accuracy and equipped with a sharp

here is quicker and easier to use than a

blade and an adjacent table, a miter saw is ready to

clamped-board guide. It includes a track

make quick and accurate crosscuts with ease.

with measuring tape and an adjustable

stop. Once you’ve carefully set it up, it will

be easy to measure for cuts without a tape

measure and to cut a series of boards to

exactly the same length.

1 To make sure you cut accurately on the line,

hold the board in place with the saw turned

off. Lower the blade until its edge touches the

cut line and adjust the position of the board as

needed. Then raise the blade, turn on the saw,

and make the cut.

3 Here’s a quick way to duplicate a cut: Place

the board you want to duplicate on top of the

board to be cut, with the ends flush. Guide the

blade so it just grazes the top board and make

2 To cut a series of boards all the same length, the cut.

clamp a board to the fence to act as a stop.

56 Basic Building Methods

Edge-Banding

Edge-banding is the application of veneer along

a visible edge of plywood. This is a critical skill for

frameless cabinets because the front edges are

very much on display. Applying iron-on banding is

quick and easy, but it can be a challenge to get all

the corners covered with crisp, clean lines. Even

if you build face-frame cabinets, you may want to

make the shelves out of plywood, in which case you

will need to learn this skill.

2 Heat up a household iron. Hold the strip in

place, so it overlaps the sheet edge on both

ends and on both sides. Press the iron onto

the banding and keep it moving until the glue

1

softens and adheres. Continue pressing for 5 to

Cut the edge-banding pieces 1 in. or so

10 seconds after the band is stuck. Remove the

longer than they need to be. You can cut with

iron and press along the band with a smooth

scissors, a knife, or a sharp chisel.

board to ensure a tight seal at all points.

tip

The iron should cause the band’s

glue to soften and bubble within a

few seconds but should not be so

hot as to burn the banding. Start

with a setting between “cotton” and

“polyester” and adjust as needed.

3 Cut the first piece of banding flush with the

sheet ends. You can use a razor (as shown):

Press down until you have cut most of the way

through, then bend back to snap the band off. Or

use scissors.

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 57

5 Apply banding to the other edge or edges in

the same way and cut the ends nearly flush.

tip

Some pros use a

sharp chisel or knife

to cut off the edges.

4 Use a small sanding block to lightly sand the

edge of the first piece of banding, holding the

This takes practice.

block flat on the adjacent edge, until the banding’s

cut end is flush with the edge.

6 Trim the banding edges almost flush, so you

can then sand them easily. Here I use two tools

made for the purpose. The blue tool cuts through

both sides at once and the black one cuts one side

at a time. Use a tool that you are comfortable with.

58 Basic Building Methods

Working with

Melamine Sheets

Melamine sheets are a popular choice for cabinet-

makers because they are inexpensive, they don’t

need to be sealed or painted, and they have a sur-

face that is easy to wipe clean. But there are down-

sides: The surface—which may be white or colored

or in a faux-wood pattern—lacks the warmth of nat-

because melamine

ural wood, and once chipped or dented, melamine

chips easily, use a

is difficult if not impossible to repair satisfactorily.

fine-cutting blade

Melamine sheets can be cut and edge-banded or

with 80 teeth or more.

covered with a face frame in much the same way as

plywood. However, there are some special techniques

and considerations when working with melamine.

Cutting. Melamine is a bit easier to chip than

plywood while cutting. And a cut with minor

imperfections will not be easy to disguise with

edge-banding. Be sure to use a fine-cutting blade

with 80 or more teeth, for a clean-looking cut.

Fastening with screws. Melamine’s particle-

board core is easily split. If you drive a standard

screw without first drilling a pilot hole, the sheets

will likely crack open, resulting in ugly bulges and

screws that do not hold. Practice fastening scrap

pieces before driving screws into the real sheets

to be sure your screws grab firmly without splitting

the material.

Glue doesn’t work when fastening a melamine

surface. However, if you are attaching a wood face

frame or if you are attaching particleboard to

particleboard, then glue will hold well.

You may choose to first drive pilot holes, as

shown in the photo at middle right. Use the correct

size pilot screw or you may use special self-tapping

screws (see the photo at bottom right). Some of

these screws are designated as particleboard

screws, while others are more general in purpose.

when working with melamine it’s a good idea

(Note that in our example, one of the screws driven

to drive pilot holes. Use a pilot screw of just the

near the end of the particleboard created a slight

right size—the thickness of the screw’s shank,

split. It’s a good idea to drill pilot holes near the

not including the threads (top). Or, you may use

ends, although screws in the middle can be driven

special self-tapping screws, which clear out the

without pilot holes.)

hole while you drive them (bottom).

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 59

Even when you use the right screws, they will not

hold as well as screws driven into plywood. So use

more of them and space them 4 in. to 6 in. apart.

Pocket screws. Pocket screws are often used

with melamine. Like regular screws, they don’t hold

as firmly as screws driven into plywood, so use

plenty of them (see the photo at left).

Drilling pocket-screw holes in particleboard

often produces slight “mushrooms” in the edge

of the sheet. Sand these smooth before you drive

the screws.

Melamine edge-banding. Applying edge-banding

on melamine is not particularly difficult, but minor

flaws will be noticeable, so work carefully. See

“Edge-Banding” on p. 57 for general techniques. The edge should be cleanly cut and perfectly straight.

Apply the banding with an iron and cut the ends

with a pair of scissors. (It’s easier to cut than wood

edge-banding.) You will likely end up with a very thin

dark line at each edge; work to be sure this line is

consistent in width. This is difficult to achieve using a

You’ll need to use plenty of pocket screws

regular knife or sanding block; special edge-banding

because, like regular screws, they won’t hold as

cutters and sanders, as shown in the photo below,

well with melamine. Sand any “mushrooms” (inset)

will produce more satisfying results.

away before you drive screws.

the techniques

and tools needed

for melamine

edge-banding

are very similar

to those for wood

edge-banding,

but minor flaws

will be more

noticeable.

60 Basic Building Methods

Jointing with

Cutting Dadoes and

a Router Table

Rabbets

Jointing straightens out rough board edges. It also

A dado is a groove in the middle of a board; a rabbet

planes edges perfectly straight in preparation for

is a groove along its edge. To make either, you can

gluing up side by side. If you do not have a jointer

use a tablesaw or a router table.

(see p. 28), you can do the job with a tablesaw (see

If using a tablesaw, start by assembling dado

pp. 146–148), or use a router table with a two-part

blades with a total width that is the thickness of the

adjustable fence, as shown here.

desired dado and adjust the blade height for the

desired depth. If you have a 1⁄4-in.-wide dado to cut,

you may choose to do it with two passes using a

standard blade.

1 Loosen the hold-down screws on the left side

of the router table’s adjustable fence (the side

you will push the board toward while routing).

Adjust it outward by 1⁄32 in. or 1⁄16 in. On this table,

special rods are inserted to make the adjustment.

Tighten the screws. This adjustment will cause the

router to cut a bit of the edge and support the cut

edge as it is fed through.

1 Clamp a board to the side of the tablesaw’s

fence so you do not cut into the fence’s

metal, adjust it so the dado blades are nearly

touching the clamped board, and cut the rabbet

(or position the fence the correct distance away

and cut the dado).

If you want to rout a dado, a router table is rec-

2

ommended; it’s easy to go astray when routing with

Put a straight-cutting bit on the router. Adjust

a rip guide. Adjust a straight bit of the desired width

the fence so the router bit is flush with the

to the correct height for the dado depth and make

fence you adjusted in Step 1 and position the

the cut on the router table.

guard. When you push the board through, a small

amount will be planed off the edge. Repeat if

needed to fully straighten the board.

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 61

tip If the going is slow and you have to

push hard to make a dado or rabbet,

you may need to first cut the groove

at half the depth, adjust the bit, and

cut again at the full depth.

Attaching with Nails

and Screws

You can use a router with a self-guided rabbet

Fastener heads should never be visible on finished

bit for rabbets, as shown.

and installed cabinets. Sinking nails or screws and

filling the holes with wood filler is acceptable when

tip

attaching moldings in a room but not for cabinetry.

(The exception is pin nails, which are virtually invis-

If the bottom shelf and the top

ible, but they do not hold well and are used to hold

are cut perfectly square, they

boards still while the glue, which provides all the

will automatically square up

joint’s strength, dries.) So pocket screws, biscuits,

the cabinet during assembly.

or dowels are used to attach visible elements. How-

Still, it’s safest to check quickly

ever, much of a cabinet will be hidden once assem-

with a square before driving

bled and then covered by a countertop; therefore,

fasteners.

many joints are fastened with nails or screws, often

with the assistance of wood glue.

2 When working with wood, glue is a great

1

fastening aid, though it cannot be relied on

It sometimes helps to fasten a square-cut

to work alone. Once you have determined where

piece of plywood (with two factory edges)

two pieces will be attached, apply wood glue to

temporarily onto your workbench or floor so you

one or both edges or sides. Swipe with a brush, a

can press boards against it as you work. This

board, or your finger to maintain a fairly even layer

allows you to press firmly without fear that the

of glue, so it will adhere at all points and will not

boards will go out of square.

squeeze out in globs.

62 Basic Building Methods

3 Drive 11⁄4-in. finish nails to hold the pieces 4 Opinions vary on when to scrape or wash together temporarily until you drive screws or

away glue squeeze-out. Many woodworkers

2-in. or 21⁄2-in. nails to fasten permanently. The

believe it’s best to allow the glue to start to

problem with longer nails is that they sometimes

harden, but not harden completely, and then

curve while being driven and then poke out of the

scrape most of it away. Allow the rest to harden

sides. So drive them at a slight angle toward the

and sand smooth.

nonvisible side.

tip If the finish nails in Step 3 poke out,

remove them by grabbing their

pointed ends with a pair of end

nippers, then roll the nippers to pull

them through.

5 Pilot holes not only keep boards from splitting but actually strengthen the screw’s fastening ability. The pilot bit should be about the width of the fastener minus the threads.

Drill a pilot hole with a bit that also cuts a counterbore—a shallow convex hole that allows the screw’s head to sit flat (left). (Without counterboring, screwing will raise up little splinters that make cabinet installation difficult.) Then drive the screws (right).

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 63

6 You can often skip drilling pilot holes if you

use trimhead screws (left), which sink into

most materials without raising a bump. For stron-

ger fastening, use self-tapping screws (right),

which create pilot and countersink holes as they

1 There are various types of pocket-screw jigs,

but here I use one of the most common. You

are driven.

may choose to fasten the jig to your workbench.

Then set the jig’s guide for the thickness of stock

you will fasten—usually 3⁄4 in. for the cabinets and

1⁄

Pocket Screws

2 in. for the drawer bodies.

In recent years, pocket screws have taken the

cabinetry world by storm. You’ll see them in use

throughout this book because they fasten boards

or sheets together—most often at a 90° angle, but

also end to end—quickly and firmly. The downside

is that they make long visible holes on one side

of the joint. In most cases, you can position these

holes so they will not be visible once the cabinet

is in place. Or you can cover the holes with special

caps or plugs. You can use pocket screws to fasten

hardwood, plywood, MDF, or melamine sheets.

tip Manufacturers say that glue is not

needed when fastening with pocket

2 Use the drill bit specified for the screws you

screws, but many cabinetmakers

will drive. Set the bit in the gauge, position the

apply glue for extra strength.

collar for the thickness of the board, and tighten

the collar.

64 Basic Building Methods

4 Use screws of the correct length: 11⁄4-in.

screws for 3⁄4-in. stock and 1-in. screws for

1⁄2-in. stock. Use fine-thread screws when driving

into hardwood and coarse-thread screws for driv-

ing into plywood or melamine. Clamp the board

to be fastened firmly to the work surface or to the

3

board being fastened; various clamps are suited

Clamp the sheet to be fastened in the jig and

to different situations. Clamping keeps the board

drill a hole until the bit’s collar meets the jig.

from wandering while you drive the screw. Drive

On sheet goods, drill holes every 6 in. to 8 in. You

the screws to fasten.

need to drill holes in only this sheet or board; the

self-tapping screws will drive into the other board

without splitting.

5 When fastening narrow pieces, like those of

a face frame, use at least two screws to keep

the boards from twisting.

B a s i c B u i l d i n g M et h o d s 65

CHAPTER

face frames

5EVEN THOUGH a cabinet’s face frame will be more of the frame to show for a more traditional nearly invisible until the doors or drawers are

look, you may choose to use 2-in. or wider pieces;

opened, many people prefer the look and feel of

however, keep in mind that wider frame pieces will

cabinets with face frames because they cover the

slightly restrict access into the cabinets and will

edges of plywood or melamine more durably than

make the drawers narrower.

the edge-banding used for frameless cabinets.

Draw a plan for your project carefully on graph

Face frames also provide a kind of security when

paper or use a design program (see p. 7). From building: Though some cabinetmakers build the

the drawing you can produce a cut list for all your

cases fi rst, it’s safer to build the face frames fi rst.

frame pieces.

Once all the frames are made and measured and

you are certain they will fi t in the kitchen, you can

Overlays

cut the sheet goods and build the cabinet cases

If you build with face frames, the most common

with confi dence. Further, the traditional 1⁄4-in. face-

arrangement is to use 11⁄2-in.-wide pieces for the

frame overlap on the sides makes it easier to deal

rails and stiles, positioning the stiles (the vertical

with wavy and out-of-square walls when installing.

pieces) so they overlap the outside of the cabinet

If you plan to build frameless cabinets, you can

sides by 1⁄4 in. Assuming you build with 3⁄4-in.

completely skip this chapter and go on to the

plywood, the stiles will overlap the inside of the

instructions in the next two chapters for building

cabinet by 1⁄2 in. Of course, if you choose wider

cabinets.

stiles, the dimensions will be different. And at the

end of a row of cabinets, you may choose to install

Planning Face Frames

the last rail fl ush with the outside edge of the case.

The cabinet case will typically be 1⁄2 in. narrower

DImensIOns

than the frame. But the frame determines the

Wall cabinet face frames are simple to dimension:

actual installation width of the cabinet—how much

They are exactly the desired width and height of

space it takes up on the wall.

the cabinet. (As I said earlier, the cabinet case itself

The projects in this book generally feature face

will be 1⁄2 in. narrower than the total cabinet size

frames made of 1×2s: 3⁄4 in. thick and 11⁄2 in. wide.

because the frame most often overhangs by 1⁄4 in.

This size works well if you install doors and drawer

on each side.)

faces that nearly cover the frame. If you want

66

Face-Frame Overlays

Hinges for Different

overlays

3⁄4-in. plywood

Choose hinges that match your inner

face-frame overlays. If you are building

frameless cabinets, buy hinges that will

1⁄

Flush for

4 in.

end panel

allow the doors to cover the cabinet

1⁄2-in.

3⁄

edges fully or partially, according to your

overlay

4-in.

overlay

preference.

11⁄2 in. by

3⁄4 in.

Hardwood face frame,

11⁄2 in. by 3⁄4 in.

3⁄4-in. plywood

1⁄4 in.

1-in. overlay

2 in. by

Face Frame FOr Inset DOOrs

3⁄4 in.

If you plan to install inset doors or doors that

only partially overlay the frame, you may choose

to build with narrower stiles where two cabinets

meet in order to keep the distance between

doors consistent.

Two 1-in. stiles

tip

If you plan to install crown molding

on top of your wall cabinets, you

may need to install a wider top

rail to provide a nailing surface.

Determine this before you build

the frames.

Most rails and stiles are 2 in. wide.

F a c e Fr a m e s 67

Face-Frame Plan FOr Wall cabInets

In a standard installation, where the doors will nearly cover the face frame when they are closed, you simply build all the cabinets with stiles and rails in the same thickness. An exception: Here the stile along the wall is 1⁄2 in. wider. This provides more room for opening the door (if the hinge is next to the wall) and allows room for a scribe cut, if the wall is not straight or plumb.

Use a stile that is 1⁄2-in. wider

All other rails and stiles are

where the cabinets meet the wall.

11⁄2 in. wide.

Face Frame FOr base cabInets

Here are the three most common types of base cabinets configurations. You can, of course, adjust the sizes—say, if you want a taller drawer for some large items.

Door and Drawer Base

Four-Drawer Base

Three-Drawer Base

1-in.-thick countertop

1-in.-thick countertop

1-in.-thick countertop

5 in.

5 in.

5 in.

5 in.

93⁄4 in.

36 in.

21 in.

5 in.

93⁄4 in.

8 in.

All rails

and stiles

are 11⁄2 in.

wide.

41⁄2-in. toekick

68 Face Frames

Base cabinet frames are the desired width of

Cutting and Preparing

the cabinet, but the height depends on two factors:

the height of the toekick and the thickness of the

Frame Pieces

countertop. Most people will want the countertop

to be 36 in. high. In the example shown in “Face

Precision is key to successful face-frame construc-

Frame for Base Cabinets” on the facing page, the

tion. If the overall widths are even 1⁄32 in. off, the

toekick is 41⁄

mistake will multiply as you build additional frames

2 in. high and the countertop will be

1 in. thick. If you want a shorter toekick (some

and could result in frames that do not fit or that are

are only 31⁄

out of square. Work with care and use simple jigs

2 in.) or if your countertop is thinner or

thicker (they vary from 3⁄

wherever possible to ensure multiple cuts that are

4 in. to 11⁄2 in.), then adjust

your dimensions accordingly.

uniform in size.

tipsSome tall slide-out trash or recycle

containers call for a base cabinet that

has only a door and no top drawer

(see p. 177). Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before

you make the cabinet.

Most commonly, a face frame’s

bottom rail is installed with its top

edge flush with, or 1⁄16 in. lower

than, the case’s bottom shelf for easy

cleaning and sliding of items. The top

of the top rail is usually flush with

the top of the case, and the vertical

stiles overlap the outside of the

cabinet case by 1⁄4 in.

Decide at this point what you will use

Gang-cut your face-frame pieces. Make sure

that there is at least one good edge for each

for the base underneath the cabinet

piece because the inside edge will be exposed

and whether you will have the face

at all times.

frame underhang the cabinet. For

more, see p. 114.

F a c e Fr a m e s 69

tips

rIP-cuttInG the PIeces

You may be able to purchase ready-cut S4S

Often the face frame is made from

(smooth on four sides) pieces of 1×2 in the hard-

the same species of wood as the

wood of your choice. Often, however, you can save

cabinet’s plywood—but not always.

money by buying wider boards and rip-cutting them

You may choose, for instance, to

to width.

make the case out of wood-look

If you will be using a jointer, rip the boards 1⁄16 in.

melamine and the frame out of

to 1⁄8 in. wider than the desired width. The jointer will

hardwood. If the cabinet will be

remove about that much material. If you plan to use

a sander, rip the boards 1⁄32 in. or 1⁄16 in. wider.

painted, birch plywood with a poplar

Use a blade that produces a fairly smooth sur-

face frame is a sensible choice.

face without wearing down quickly. For hardwoods,

a rip-cutting blade will last longer than a finish blade.

Aim to produce finished pieces

The cut edge of the face frame boards will be

that are precisely 11⁄2 in. wide

visible, so there may be a trade-off: A long-lasting

(or whatever width you choose).

blade may produce a fairly rough cut, which you will

need to sand.

However, if you are off by 1⁄16 in.

it will not be apparent, as long as

measurInG anD cuttInG tO lenGth

you measure for the rails using the

Cut the (vertical) stiles all to the desired height of

method shown in the photo below.

the cabinets. Use a stop guide to duplicate the cuts

(see p. 56).

To measure for the rails, you can subtract 3 in.

from the total width of the frame. But because

measure and cut the

rails carefully because

they, along with the

width of the stiles, deter-

mine the overall width of

the cabinet.

70 Face Frames

tip

Some of the ripped pieces you cut

will be wonderfully flat, straight,

and free of imperfections on at

least one side; others will have

minor problems. Cut the longest

pieces out of the really straight

stuff. Many of the shorter pieces

can be cut out of the stock that

has minor bows and even twists.

board widths may vary slightly, a better way is to

clamp two stiles together, press the rail against

them, and measure for the rail length as shown in

hold a random-orbit sander

the photo on the facing page.

flat on the boards

as you sand. There is no need to press down

hard; light to medium pressure is best.

sanDInG anD FInIshInG

If you have a jointer or thickness planer, use it to

smooth the cut edges (see p. 56). If not, work care-

fully with a random-orbit sander. Hold the sanding

pad flat on the surface, so you don’t round over the

edges. You may choose to very slightly ease the

edges with a hand sander so they aren’t sharp, but

don’t round them over visibly.

Pocket-Screw Face Frame

With pocket screws you can make strong and

square face frames quickly. See “Pocket Screws”

on pp. 64–65 for more information.

tip When fastening 3⁄4-in.

hardwood, use 11⁄4-in.

fine-thread pocket screws.

1 The pocket screws will be driven in the back

of the frame. Place the frame upside-down

and mark to indicate where the screw holes will

be drilled, so you don’t get confused as you work.

F a c e Fr a m e s 71

2 Use the pocket-screw jig’s gauge to measure

for the correct depth of the holes you will drill

and tighten the collar. Drill two holes in the end of

the backs of the rails.

3 Use a clamp made for pocket screws to hold a 4 To check for square, measure the diagonals; rail tightly against a stile and feel with your finger

they should be exactly the same distance.

to be sure they are perfectly aligned. Use a framing

square to keep the pieces at a right angle. You may

tip

choose to apply a small amount of glue to the joint

before driving the screws. Drive the screws.

If a frame is very slightly out of

square, you may be able to straighten

it by holding it upright with just

tip

one corner resting on the work table

If the stile moves slightly out of

and tapping with a hammer on the

alignment when you drive the

opposite corner. If this does not

first screw, remove the screw, drill

solve the problem, disassemble, drill

a new hole, and start again.

new holes, and try again.

72 Face Frames

Screw-and-Plug

Face Frame

The method outlined here produces visible plugs

in the corners of the frame for a pleasant hand-

crafted look, at the same time achieving very

strong joints.

2 On a scrap piece of face-frame wood, drill

multiple holes with the plug-cutting bit, then

use a small chisel to pry out the plugs.

1 You’ll need to buy a plug-cutting drill bit as

well as a bit that drills both a pilot hole and

a counterbore (not a countersink) hole. The plug

cutter must make plugs of the same size as the

counterbore—in this example, 5⁄16 in. You’ll also

need a #1 square-drive bit and some square-

drive trim-head screws. (In this setup, the pilot/

counterbore bit can be quickly flipped for driving

square-head screws.)

3 On the end of the stile, use a square to mark

for two holes that are centered on the stile’s

thickness and evenly spaced.

F a c e Fr a m e s 73

4 Clamp the pieces tightly together and check that they are square to each other. Using a small square as a general guide, drill a pilot hole about 1⁄2 in.

deeper than the length of the screw, then drill a counterbore hole with a depth of at least 1⁄4 in. Separate the pieces, apply a bit of glue to the joint, then reclamp and drive a trim-head screw into each hole until the joint tightens.

6 Allow the glue to dry completely. Use a hand

sander or a random-orbit sander to sand the

plugs flush.

5 Squirt a dab of glue into the holes or onto the

plugs and tap them in. After the glue dries,

use a fine saw to cut the plugs close to flush.

74 Face Frames

Hidden-Dowel

Face Frame

Using dowels with glue is an old-fashioned method

still popular with many woodworkers for attaching

boards together invisibly and with no hardware. You

can buy a self-centering dowel jig, but simply using

centering pins is not difficult—and can be done quickly.

1 You’ll need wood dowels (here I am using

5⁄16 in., but you can also use 3⁄8 in.), a drill bit

the same size as the dowels, and dowel centers,

also the same size. The wood dowels are fluted,

to allow for plenty of glue to seep in and hold firmly.

2 Drill two holes into each joint. If you have a

drill press, by all means use it. Or you may

choose to use a portable drill press attachment

(top). But the holes do not have to be precisely

square; using a Speed Square as a general guide

(above) works fine for someone with reasonable

carpentry skills.

F a c e Fr a m e s 75

3 Clean out the holes with a

knife, then insert a center into

each hole.

4 Position the boards as they will be

attached and use a straightedge

to be sure the rail is aligned with the

stile. Position a small block as shown

to prevent marring the wood as you

tap. Holding the rail firm, tap the stile

with medium pressure, so the centers

make clearly visible indentations.

76 Face Frames

5 Insert the tip of the drill bit into one of the 6 Place a sheet of construction paper under the indentations made in the last step, drill, and

frame to catch squeezed-out glue. At each joint,

then repeat for the second hole. Clean the holes

squirt some glue into each hole, insert the dowel,

out with a knife, so no fragments can get in the

and tap the pieces together.

way of a tight joint.

tips

Use a brad-point bit when

drilling the holes. It has a tip

that easily inserts into the

indentation made by the dowel

center.

Have all your pieces ready before

you start gluing and tapping the

joints, so you can work quickly

once you start. Otherwise, the

glue will start to set up in the

first joint by the time you get to

the last joint.

7 Check for square and clamp the assembly

together. Allow at least 1 hour for the glue to

dry before removing the clamps. After you remove

the clamps, handle the frame carefully and let it dry

overnight before attaching it to the cabinet.

F a c e Fr a m e s 77

Making a Beaded

Face Frame

A bead detail adds elegance to a face frame. It’s

often applied when doors will be inset (so that the

face frame is visible when doors and drawers are

closed). There’s nothing complicated about making

there are a number of beading bits available.

and installing a single bead, but the work should be

Use one like this, which is called a “traditional

done precisely for a neat, professional appearance.

beading bit.”

1 Here, I am using a beading bit with a 1⁄4-in. 2 Rout a bead along one side of a piece of 1×2; radius, but you may choose a 3⁄16-in. radius for

then rout the other side. Set a tablesaw to

a more pronounced look. Set the beading bit on

rip-cut at 1⁄4 in. and rip each side of the 1×2 to

a router table so the bottom of the bead is at the

produce two bead pieces.

same height as the table. Set the router fence so

the router will cut the bit’s full thickness.

78 Face Frames

tip Adding a bead will, of course,

widen the face-frame pieces, so

be sure to take the extra width

into account when planning.

You may, for instance, choose

to use 11⁄4-in.-wide boards for

the basic frame with a 1⁄4-in.-

thick bead piece, for a total

frame width of 11⁄2 in. If you

add 1⁄4-in. beading to a stan-

dard 1×2 frame, the total frame

will be 13⁄4 in. wide—and

you’ll have a nice old-fashioned

look without protruding too

4 Hold the bead piece in place and use a knife

to mark where you will miter-cut to length.

much into the cabinet cavity.

Incise the mark on the bottom, where the tip of the

miter will be.

3 Miter-cut one end of each bead piece. Make 5 Test-fit the pieces and recut as needed for the miter cuts using a tablesaw with an angle

a snug (but not too tight) fit all round. Squirt

gauge. Or use a power miter saw. Fit the miter

a small amount of glue on the inside of the

saw with a wood fence; this makes it easier to get

frame, align the bead piece, and drive a few pin

an exact cut on a narrow piece.

nails to attach.

F a c e Fr a m e s 79

CHAPTER

wall cabinets

6WHEN TALKING with cabinetmakers about open the door to see inside. I’ll show you how to building kitchen cabinet cases, you will likely hear

build so no fastener heads are showing on the

the phrase “more than one way to skin a cat.” It’s

one visible cabinet, but you may choose instead

not clear why anyone would actually want to skin a

to cover the exposed side with a panel.

cat, but the message is clear. Most kitchen cabi-

nets are pretty simple boxes that have front edges

Getting Ready

built for attaching doors and a grid of holes inside

for installing adjustable shelving. (The exception:

To avoid heartbreaking mistakes, get all your ducks

corner cabinets get a bit complex.) Because they

in a row before you start building the fi rst cabinet

are simple, there are many ways to build them. This

case:

book emphasizes certain methods that I believe are

• Plan the kitchen carefully, so you know the exact strong and not diffi cult to build, but it also touches

size of every cabinet (see chapter 1).

on other options.

With the exception of corner units, face-frame

• Check walls for square and plumb and allow for

and frameless cabinets are built in much the

extra space if you need to add fi ller pieces to

same way; the main difference is whether you will

compensate for imperfections.

attach a face frame or cover exposed edges with

• Be sure all the doors will open fully, especially edge-banding. If you choose to go with face-frame

at the corners and where cabinets meet walls

cabinets, see chapter 5.

or appliances. You may need to add fi ller pieces

Some professional cabinetmakers build doors

between cabinets or between a cabinet and

and drawer faces fi rst, then the cases. You can pro-

a wall.

ceed that way, but for many it’s simpler and safer to

• Buy your cabinet hinges ahead of time and be

build the cases fi rst. Once you’re sure the cases will

sure they will work with your cabinets.

fi t in the space allotted, you can measure the cases

to determine fi nal door and drawer face sizes. This

• Choose materials and plan the fi nishing. If you book also shows building wall cabinets fi rst, then

are using natural-wood plywood or wood face

base cabinets (see chapter 7), but you may prefer

frames, you may want to apply fi nish to pieces

to build the base cabinets fi rst.

before assembling. You can also purchase

In a typical row of cabinets, only the outside of

plywood that is prefi nished or decide to apply a

one cabinet will be visible. So once installed, most

fi nish after the cabinets are built (see chapter 9).

of the cabinet cases will be visible only when you

80

ASSEMBLY TABLE

When building cabinets, a

workbench is often too high

and working on the floor is

often awkward—even painful

after a while. A 16-in.-tall

assembly table is just the right

height for comfortable cabinet

assembly. And if the table is on

wheels, you can easily rotate

your work, which you’ll find a

serious convenience.

Building an assembly table

3⁄

is well worth the hour or so of

4-in. plywood, 2 in. by 30 in.

labor and the modest material

cost. You’ll need a single sheet

3

3

⁄4-in. plywood,

⁄4-in. plywood,

of 3⁄4-in. plywood, some short

40 in. by 30 in.

2 in. by 30 in.

2×4s, and four casters. The

table shown is 40 in. by 30 in.,

which will support almost any

Three joists,

3⁄4-in. plywood,

kitchen cabinet. Buy plywood

12 in. by 40 in.

that is flat and free of warps.

3⁄4-in. plywood,

2 in. by 40 in.

Cut the three 12-in.-wide joists

3⁄4-in. plywood,

carefully with a tablesaw so

40 in. by 30 in.

they are perfectly straight,

to produce a table that is

Three 2×4s,

perfectly flat.

30 in.

3⁄4-in. plywood,

2 in. by 40 in.

Four casters

tip In some areas it is not unusual to build with 5⁄8-in. rather than 3⁄4-in. plywood. If you go this route, be sure to take the difference in thickness into account as you plan and build the cabinets. For instance, for the cabinets shown on p. 83, the horizontal pieces will need to be 1⁄4 in. longer if you build with 5⁄8-in. plywood but the vertical pieces will be the same size.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 81

Basic Wall Cabinet

• If you are building frameless cabinets using

Construction

plywood, you may want to make them 113⁄4 in.

deep. This will save on material costs because

Whichever design you choose, everything must

you can rip-cut four widths from a single

be straight and square; minor flaws may not be

4-ft.-wide plywood sheet. (Remember that a

noticeable in a single cabinet, but when you join

sawcut is about 1⁄8 in. thick, so you cannot get

a number of cabinets in a row, the mistakes can

four 12-in.-wide pieces out of a single sheet.)

multiply. So work carefully, following the cutting and

However, melamine sheets are typically 49 in.

joining techniques in chapter 4.

wide, making it possible to get four 12-in.-wide

pieces out of a sheet.

WALL CABINET DEPTH

• Many inexpensive cabinets are a total of 12 in.

Many wall cabinets have cases that are 12 in. deep,

deep, including the door thickness—for a total

including the face frame if there is one. Once an

case depth (including the face frame, if any) of

overlaid door is added, the total depth is 123⁄4 in.

only 111⁄4 in. This may, with very careful planning,

However, there are other options:

save on material costs but can also feel a bit

chintzy.

DESIGN SOFTWARE

Using SketchUp or another

cabinet-design program, you

can digitally build cabinets

to the exact sizes you want.

Such programs can then spit

out a list of all the pieces

you will need, with correct

measurements for each

one. With this information,

you can cut a bunch of

boards and mark them

with reference numbers for

assembly. The time spent

learning such software can

save a good deal more time

down the line.

82 Wall Cabinets

FRAMELESS WALL CABINET

tip Since most cabinet sides are not

All parts are 3⁄4-in. plywood, except where noted.

visible once installed, you can simply

1⁄2-in. plywood cleat

drive screws through the sides in

Pocket

Screws, if

most instances. However, if a side

side will not

5 in.

screws, if side

will be visible and you do not plan

will be visible

be visible

to attach a side panel later, common

practice is to fasten with pocket

103⁄4 in.

screws on that side.

1⁄4-in.

plywood

36 in.

• Some cabinets are extra-deep—often 13 in. or

back set

111⁄2 in.

14 in., not including the door. This creates more

in dado

storage room inside. However, a wall cabinet

5 in.

deeper than 14 in. may protrude too far from

the wall, making it uncomfortable for someone

221⁄2 in.

working at a standard 25-in.-deep countertop.

1⁄2-in. plywood

Pocket screws below

cleat

Our Design

FACE-FRAME WALL CABINET

The drawings at right show frameless and face-

frame wall cabinets, both of which we will build

All parts are 3⁄4-in. plywood, except where noted.

in this chapter. These cabinets feature a 1⁄

1

4-in.

⁄2-in. plywood cleat

1⁄4-in. plywood back set in dado

plywood back that is set in dadoes cut in the side

Pocket screws, if

pieces. This dado construction makes for a rock-

5 in.

side will be visible

solid cabinet that is sure not to pull apart even if

22 in.

the shelves are laden with heavy cans. (For that

Face frame, 1×2

matter, even if children crawl on top, though that

(3⁄4 in. by 11⁄2 in.)

is not recommended.) Plywood cleats at the top

and bottom of the back provide a strong surface

for driving screws when attaching the cabinet to

the wall.

103⁄4 in.

36 in.

tip

5 in.

The designs shown at right are

especially recommended if you will be

building with melamine sheets

1⁄2-in.

because screws driven into melamine

plywood cleat

231⁄2 in.

do not hold as well as those driven

24 in.

into plywood.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 83

Using 1⁄4-in. plywood for the back saves a good

inside of the cabinet at the top and bottom. Where

deal of material expense because the back makes

a side will show after installation, the side piece is

up a major portion of the material used. The top

cut 1⁄4 in. longer than the other side, and a rabbet is

and bottom cleats can be made of inexpensive

cut to accept the plywood.

softwood plywood.

“Wall Cabinet Design 3” below shows the simplest

design—a straightforward box made completely of

OTHER POSSIBILITIES

3⁄4-in. plywood. Here, if a side will show, it should be

Two alternative designs are a bit simpler to build;

attached with pocket screws driven from the back

they’re strong, though not quite as strong as our

of the cabinet.

preferred design. In “Wall Cabinet Design 2” below,

a 1⁄4-in. plywood back is screwed or nailed onto the

tip

sides, and 3⁄4-in. plywood cleats are attached to the

A common shorthand way of

referring to wall cabinets starts

WALL CABINET DESIGN 2

with the letter W, followed by

3⁄4-in. plywood cleat, 4 in. wide

the width, then the height. So,

1⁄4-in. plywood back

for instance, W2436 refers to a

wall cabinet that’s 24 in. wide

and 36 in. tall. CW means a

corner wall cabinet.

3⁄4-in.

plywood

cleat,

4 in. wide

WALL CABINET DESIGN 3

3⁄4-in. plywood back

If Side Will Show

1⁄4-in. back

Rabbet to

accept 1⁄4-in.

plywood

3⁄4-in. plywood

cleat

3⁄4-in. plywood

side

84 Wall Cabinets

Planning the Cuts

tip

Melamine sheets are typically

Wall cabinet part sizes are straightforward and easy

49 in. by 97 in., giving you a bit

to calculate. But it is notoriously easy to make sim-

more room to work.

ple arithmetic mistakes, which can result in a heavy

cost in time and materials.

So it’s an excellent idea to write up cut lists,

which force you to double-check your figures so

MAKING A CUT CHART

you don’t cut any pieces too long or too short and

Though it may seem tedious, you’ll save money and

so you don’t cut more pieces of a certain size than

minimize mistakes if you make a cut list and plan

you need. Cut charts are also very helpful; these

how the pieces can most efficiently be cut from

are simple drawings that show how the pieces will

sheets.

be cut out of sheets. This will help you get the most

“Cut List for Two Cabinets, W2436 and W3036”

out of a sheet, and save you money.

on p. 86 shows a plan for cutting the parts for two

Here are some basic cut-list principles for wall

cabinets out of a single sheet of plywood. This

cabinets:

produces a very small amount of waste; for other

• Except for corner cabinets, wall cabinet sides

cabinet sizes you may find that you have to throw

are all the same depth. In this design, frame-

away more scrap.

less cabinets are 111⁄2 in. deep and face-frame

As you plan, pay attention to the direction of the

cabinets are 10 3⁄4 in. (Adding the face frame will

wood grain. It’s generally considered most attractive

make them a total of about 111⁄2 in. deep.)

to run cabinet grain vertically rather than horizon-

• Most of your cabinets will be the same height.

tally and for shelf grain to run lengthwise. This

So all the side pieces for your wall cabinets

means that for wall cabinets you will probably start

will be the same height, with the exception of

by rip-cutting pieces that are a bit narrower than

pantry units and over-the-stove and refrigerator

12 in. Of course, with white or solid-color melamine

cabinets.

sheets you don’t have to worry about this.

• In this design, all horizontal pieces, both tops and bottoms, are 3⁄4 in. narrower than the side

Building a Basic

pieces to make room for the 1⁄2-in. plywood cleats

Wall Cabinet

and the dado with inset 1⁄4-in. plywood back.

• In the frameless cabinets, the tops and bottoms

Whether you’re building a case for a standard face-

are 11⁄

frame or for a frameless wall cabinet, it is largely

2 in. narrower than the total width of the

cabinet. For a face-frame cabinet, they are 2 in.

the same process. Besides the 3⁄4-in. difference in

narrower than the total width (because the face

cabinet depth, the main distinction is that with a

frame overlays the cabinet by 1⁄

face-frame cabinet you build the entire case and

4 in. on each

side).

• Assuming you are using shelf pins that do not

tip

limit the length of the shelves (see p. 90), the

You’ll probably produce a good deal

shelves will be 1⁄8 in. shorter than the top and

of waste when cutting plywood

bottom pieces.

backs, largely because you need to

keep the grain running vertically.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 85

CUT LIST FOR TWO CABINETS, W2436 AND W3036

111⁄2"

111⁄2" x 36"

111⁄2" x 36"

103⁄4" x 221⁄2"

111⁄2"

111⁄2" x 36"

111⁄2" x 36"

103⁄4" x 221⁄2"

103⁄4"

103⁄4" x 281⁄2"

103⁄4" x 281⁄2"

103⁄4" x 283⁄8"

103⁄4"

103⁄4" x 283⁄8"

103⁄4" x 223⁄8"

103⁄4" x 223⁄8"

W2436

W3036

• Two 111⁄2" x 36" for the sides 3

• Two 111⁄2" x 36" for the sides 3

• Two 103⁄4" x 221⁄2" for the top and

• Two 103⁄4" x 281⁄2" for the top and

bottom 3

bottom 3

• Two 103⁄4" x 223⁄8" for the shelves 3

• Two 103⁄4" x 283⁄8" for the shelves 3

Tearout occurs most often

when you are making a

crosscut, but it can also

happen during rip cuts.

Make sure to make test

cuts both ways before

If you make label marks on the back edge of your boards, you will not you start.

have to sand them off, and they will help you orient the pieces.

86 Wall Cabinets

then attach the frame, whereas with a frameless

tip

cabinet you apply edge-banding to the pieces

Many 1⁄4-in. plywood sheets are

before assembling the cabinet.

actually a bit thinner—often,

7

CUTTING THE PIECES

⁄32 in. Test the fit with scrap

Follow the tips in chapter 4 to cut the parts. Take

pieces, to see if you need to use

special care to produce clean cuts and avoid

a 1⁄4-in. or 7⁄32-in. bit to cut the

tearout (see p. 53). It’s easy to get parts mixed up dado in the side.

when you’re assembling cabinets, so mark each

piece, designating which cabinet and which part it

is for. Draw an arrow indicating the face you want

to show on the inside of the cabinet.

CUTTING THE DADO FOR THE BACK

Cut a dado groove for the plywood back that is

slightly deeper than 3⁄8 in. on the inside of each

side piece, 1⁄2 in. from the back. You can use either

a router table or a tablesaw.

tips

A small amount of tearout will

not be apparent if the cut edge

is covered with a face frame, but

imperfections will be on display

with a frameless cabinet.

If you get a clean cut with your

rip cuts, don’t assume that cuts

across the grain will also be

clean; that’s where tearout most

often occurs. Test by crosscutting

some scrap pieces first.

Choose which side of each piece

you want to show. In most cases,

that will be the inside of the

cabinet. For shelves, the bottom

1 To cut the dado for the back with a router

table, raise the bit to the correct height. Hold

is usually the most visible.

a piece of 1⁄2-in. stock between the fence and

the bit, rotate the bit so its blade just touches the

stock, and tighten the fence in that position.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 87

2 Press firmly against the fence as you cut 3 When you are done, the plywood back should the groove.

fit snugly, but not so tight that you have to pound

it into the groove. If the fit is too snug or too loose,

you may need to use a different router bit.

MAKING A DADO WITH A TABLESAW

Producing a dado with a tablesaw calls for two or more passes with the blade. Raise the blade to slightly higher than 3⁄8 in. above the table. To set the fence for the first pass, position a piece of 1⁄2-in. stock between the blade and the fence, and tighten the fence (A). Cut the first pass on a number of pieces (B). To adjust the fence for the second pass, move the fence away from the blade a bit. Put the 1⁄2-in. piece in place again against the fence and hold a piece of the 1⁄4-in. stock against it. Move the fence until the 1⁄4-in. stock is flush with the outside edge of the blade (C) and tighten the fence. Make the second cut to finish the dado (D). Test all of your cuts on a scrap piece before cutting on your cabinet stock.

A

B

C

D

88 Wall Cabinets

DRILLING ADJUSTABLE

tips

SHELVING HOLES

Use 1⁄4-in.-thick pegboard for a

Adjustable shelves will be supported by four

guide. It helps guide you toward

shelving pins inserted into holes drilled in the side

pieces. The holes must be the exact size of the pins

drilling straight holes better than

and must be perfectly level with each other.

1⁄8-in. pegboard. Also pay a bit more

You can buy guides made for drilling a grid of

for tempered pegboard; it’s harder

shelving holes, but many cabinetmakers simply use

than the untempered board and

pegboard, as shown below. Pegboard has a grid of

helps keep the bit from wandering

1⁄4-in. holes spaced 1 in. apart, which is just right

as you drill.

for this purpose. You’ll find that 1⁄4-in. shelf pins are

readily available, but if you want to use smaller or

larger pins, use a different guide system.

Peg holes start and end about 8 in.

from the top and the bottom; it’s

very rare that you would want a

shelf above or below those points.

1 Cut a piece of pegboard to use as a guide. 2 Attach a depth collar to a 1⁄4-in. drill bit Use tape to mark off the holes that will be

so it will bore a hole deep enough for the

drilled, so you don’t have to think about where to

pin but will not poke through the plywood.

drill. The holes should be between 1 in. and 2 in.

from the front and back of the cabinet. Clamp the

guide in place.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 89

4 Lightly sand the surface to remove all burrs,

which can be highly visible once you apply

finish. The pins should fit neatly in the holes.

3 Drill the holes, taking care not to bump the

guide out of alignment as you work. To drill

holes on the other side piece that are level with

ASSEMBLING THE CASE

the first-side holes, flip the guide over and clamp

For most of the joinery, simply drive screws from

it in the same position (see p. 112).

the outside of the cabinet. Where a side will be

visible and you don’t want screw heads to show,

use pocket screws, as shown on the facing page.

Or use hidden dowels, as shown on pp. 75–77.

tip

Here I assemble a case with unfinished parts, but

If you find that pieces wander

you may choose to apply finish first. If so, allow it to

out of alignment slightly as

dry and then assemble as shown in “Assembling a

Prefinished Frameless Cabinet” on p. 93. Finish can

you drill pilot holes and drive

prevent glue from bonding to wood so make sure

screws, keep them in place

to keep it off any areas that you will be gluing.

with clamps or fasten with pin

To keep the cabinet straight and square, con-

nails before screwing.

tinually check with your tape measure and use a

square as you work.

90 Wall Cabinets

2 Working on a flat surface, slip the back into

the dadoes in the sides and check that the

1

size of the overall cabinet case is correct. If you

Where you don’t want fasteners to show on

plan to install a face frame (as shown here but

the side of a cabinet, drill pocket screws before

not in the other steps), the frame should overlay

assembly (see pp. 64–65). Here, pocket holes are the case by 1⁄4 in. on each side when the case

drilled in what will be the top of a cabinet.

is square.

INSTALLING THE BOTTOM ON A FACE-FRAME CABINET

If you will be applying a face frame, the top of the cabinet’s bottom piece should be flush with the top of the frame. This will make it easy to slide items in and out of the cabinet. (For a frameless cabinet, simply install the bottom flush with the bottoms of the sides.) Rip-cut spacer guides to hold the bottom in place as you assemble (A). Set the cabinet’s bottom on the spacers and drive pin nails to hold the bottom piece in place (B). Use a spacer as a guide to help you drill pilot holes and drive screws to attach the bottom to the sides (C).

A

B

C

Wa l l C a b i n et s 91

4 Drill pilot holes, then drive screws to attach

the pieces. On frameless cabinets, take

3

care that the screw heads are flush or below the

Set the top and bottom pieces in place

surface, so they don’t interfere with a tight fit to an

and check for square and that they are the

adjoining cabinet.

correct size. Apply glue if you wish and drive

pin nails or small finish nails to temporarily

tip

hold the pieces together. As you work, feel

If a piece moves out of alignment

with your hand to be sure the pieces are flush

with each other.

as you drive a screw, remove the

screw, drill another pilot in another

location, and fasten again.

5 When joining with pocket screws, be aware 6 For the back of the cabinet, cut 1⁄2-in. plywood that the screws will move the piece with the

cleats to fit snugly between the sides. Apply

holes as you fasten. Drive pin nails to position the

ample glue to attach the cleats to the case’s back.

piece being fastened 1⁄16 in. to 1⁄8 in. out of align-

Drill pilot holes and drive screws to attach the

ment, as shown. Then drive the screws to pull the

cleats to the sides as well as to the top and

pieces flush with each other.

bottom cabinet pieces.

92 Wall Cabinets

ASSEMBLING A PREFINISHED FRAMELESS CABINET

If you are building a frameless cabinet, cut the pieces to size and test that they fit together accurately, so everything is square, parallel, and precisely the right size. Install edge-banding (A) and sand so the edges look seamless (B).

For more information about finishing, see chapter 9. Apply a smooth, streak-free finish wherever it will show (C); on the sides that will be covered, it’s fine to skip the finishing. Use an artist’s brush to apply stain to the inside of holes (D). Assemble with screws and perhaps pocket screws where needed (E).

A

B

C

D

E

Wa l l C a b i n et s 93

ATTACHING A FACE FRAME

The most common way to attach a face frame is with pocket screws. Clamp a pocket-screw jig in place and drill pairs of pocket-screw holes (A) the correct size and length for 3⁄4-in. material (see

pp. 64–65). Drill pairs of holes spaced 8 in. or so apart. Apply glue if desired, clamp the frame in

place, and check that it overlays the cabinet evenly on both sides. (A scrap piece of 1⁄4-in. plywood makes this easy.) Drive 11⁄4-in. fine-thread screws to attach a hardwood face frame (B).

Where the side of a cabinet will show and you don’t want pocket holes, apply ample glue, clamp the frame tightly, and drive pin nails (C). Wait 1 hour or more before removing the clamps, and wait a day before installing the cabinet.

A

B

C

94 Wall Cabinets

Building a Corner

Wall Cabinet

You could simply install basic rectangular wall cab-

shown on p. 115, but that would make access to the

inets so they meet at a corner, but that would lead

inside space awkward. For the best use of space,

to wasted space. You could also build a corner wall

build a corner cabinet with a 45° face, like the one

cabinet similar in shape to the base cabinet design

shown here, and install a lazy susan inside (p. 178).

CORNER CABINET CONSTRUCTION

2 in.

22 3

Top

⁄4 in.

135°

1111⁄16 in.

Top cleat

45° bevel

Back

Back

support

173⁄4 in.

Side

Bottom

Bottom

cleat

Face frame

45° bevel on front edge

221⁄2° bevel

of side

Wa l l C a b i n et s 95

FACE-FRAME CORNER WALL CABINET

FACE-FRAME CORNER WALL CABINET, TOP VIEW

A corner wall cabinet takes up 24 in. of wall space.

Because a face frame overhangs at an angle, fig-

1⁄4-in. plywood back

uring this out can be a bit complicated, as you can

24 in.

see in “Face-Frame Corner Wall Cabinet, Top View”

at left. But if you carefully cut to the dimensions

shown in the main drawing on p. 95, you won’t go

wrong. (Of course, the length of the sides depends

223⁄4 in.

on the desired height of the cabinet.)

In this design, the front edges of the side pieces

Face

24 in.

frame

are bevel-cut to accept the face frame. The sides

of the face frame are beveled at 221⁄2°. The face

frames for adjoining cabinets will also need to be

1111⁄16 in.

beveled at 221⁄2°; or you can add spacer pieces, as

Face frames for

shown in “If You Want More Space for the Door” on

adjoining cabinets

p. 102. The back of the cabinet has a small angled meet with two

cutout to compensate for irregularities that often

221⁄2° bevels.

occur at wall corners.

A frameless corner wall cabinet is presented in

Wall

the next section.

tip

Keep in mind that the

adjoining cabinets will

also need to have their

face-frame sides cut at

221⁄2° bevels.

1 Cut a top or bottom piece 24 in.

sq. and use a large square to

mark for the two angle cuts. The

side dimension, from each corner to

the beginning of the front angle cut,

is 1111⁄16 in. (that is, 113⁄4 in. minus

1⁄16 in.).

96 Wall Cabinets

2 If you don’t have a large bevel guide for your table-

saw, attach a piece of plywood, about 12 in. long,

to a standard bevel guide. This will help you keep the

sheet correctly aligned as you make the angle cuts.

3 Double-check that the piece is correctly cut.

Use the first piece as a template for the sec-

ond and cut the second piece in the same way.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 97

4 Cut plywood for the two side pieces, at least several inches wider than needed, at the desired height of the cabinet. Set your tablesaw to cut at a 45° bevel. Cut a scrap piece and test to be sure it is precisely 45° and make any needed adjustments (left). Then bevel-cut one side of a side piece but keep it 1 in. or 2 in. wider than needed (right).

5 Set a side piece in position against the bottom

piece so the side piece’s beveled side aligns

with the angle cut of the bottom. Mark the side piece

as shown for cutting to width. Make the cut with a

tablesaw.

98 Wall Cabinets

6 Attach the side pieces

to the top and bottom.

Use a spacer guide to

raise the cabinet’s bottom

so it will be flush with

the top of the face frame

bottom.

7 The back support fits between the top and the bot-

tom pieces, so it is about 2 in. shorter than the sides

(depending on the amount you raised the bottom piece

in Step 6). Cut a piece to length, then bevel-cut one

side at 221⁄2°. Hold it in place to mark for the other bevel cut. Attach with screws driven through the top and the

bottom pieces.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 99

8 The four nailing cleats span between the sides

and the back support. Hold a strip about 4 in.

wide in place and mark for cutting. Bevel-cut on a

chopsaw or tablesaw and attach with screws.

tip

The screws attaching the cleats to the back should

be driven at a slight angle, as shown above. Their

heads do not have to be driven flush because this

will be blank space.

10 The sides of the face frame

need to be at 221⁄2° bevels.

Set your tablesaw to that angle, cut

two test pieces, and hold them in

place as shown in the top photo; the

9

second piece should be at a right

Cut 1⁄4-in. plywood panels to size for the backs. These

angle to the cabinet. If not, make

pieces can overlay the back support slightly. Attach with

small angle adjustments as needed.

glue and screws.

Then bevel-cut the face frame sides.

100 Wall Cabinets

11To determine the exact

length of the top and

bottom frame pieces, hold

(or pin-nail) a beveled side

piece in place and mea-

sure as shown to find the

precise position of the side

piece; its corner should be

exactly 24 in. from the side.

Do the same on the other

side. Now you can mea-

sure between the two side

pieces for the length of the

top and bottom pieces.

12 Assemble the face frame as shown on p. 72, with the bevel

facing down. Drill pocket screws and attach the rails to the stiles with 11⁄4-in. fine-thread screws.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 101

Building a Frameless

Corner Wall Cabinet

IF YOU WANT MORE SPACE

FOR THE DOOR

When you cut a sheet for the sides at a 45° bevel,

With full overlay doors, it’s possible that the

the result is an edge that is extra wide and sharp

on one side. This is why when building a frameless

corner unit’s door may interfere with the

cabinet, it’s a good idea to avoid exposed bevel

door of the adjoining cabinet. To give the

cuts, and this design does just that.

doors a little breathing room, bevel-cut and

Because you will be building a pretty simple box

attach a spacer piece.

that is 24 in. sq., cutting and assembly are straight-

forward. Start by cutting the top and bottom pieces

as in the “Face-Frame Corner Wall Cabinet, Top View”

on p. 96. Then cut the side and back pieces, and check that the side pieces will have front edges that

are flush with the angle cut of the top and bottom

pieces. Cut two stiles that are 2 in. wide to the

desired height of the cabinet minus 11⁄2 in.

Test-fit the pieces and check that they will pro-

duce a unit that is exactly 24 in. in both directions.

Apply edge-banding to all exposed edges: the front

edges of the stile and side pieces as well as the

front edges of the top and bottom pieces.

Assemble the basic box without the stiles or

angled backers, checking for square and correct

size as you build. To cut angled backers, rip-cut a

piece of 2× lumber at 45°. Fasten the backer to the

FRAMELESS CORNER WALL CABINET,

inside of the side pieces, just a touch back from the

TOP VIEW

front edge, then fasten the stiles to the backers so

they are flush with the front of the top and bottom.

24 in.

231⁄4 in.

tip If your wall at the corner is

111⁄4 in.

wavy or out of level, you may

want to cut an angle out of the

24 in.

back corners of the top and

bottom pieces and install a

2 in.

short back support piece, as in

Stile

the design for the face-frame

Door

wall corner cabinet on p. 96.

45° angled backer

102 Wall Cabinets

FRAMELESS CORNER WALL CABINET

Angle Backer

45°

11⁄2 in.

22 1

1 ⁄2 in.

⁄2

22

in.

Top

11

1

1

⁄4 in.

⁄4 in.

11

24 in.

1 ⁄4 in.

23

Angled

backer

Back

Angled backer

Back

2 in.

2 in.

Stile

Side

Side

Same as top piece

1 ⁄4 in.

11

11

1⁄4 in.

Wa l l C a b i n et s 103

1 Attach the side pieces flush with the 45° corner

of the base and top piece.

2 Cut the angled backer out of a piece of 2×

lumber. It will not be visible in the final cabinet

unless you stick your head in the cabinet and crane

your neck.

3 Attach the angled backer just slightly behind 4 Attach the stile with pin or finish nails and the side piece, so it will not be visible but so

screws. If you are building with melamine,

the stile’s front edge will be almost fully visible.

attach with screws and paint or cover the

screw heads.

104 Wall Cabinets

CHAPTER

base cabinets and

THOUGH THEY are larger than wall cabinets,

tips

7

drawer bodies

base cabinets are no more diffi cult to build. In fact

Plumbing and electrical

because they rest on the fl oor and you don’t have

lines, as well as a hose for

to worry about them pulling away from the wall,

design is often simpler.

the dishwasher, will likely

Many of the procedures for building base

run through some of your

cabinets are the same as those for wall cabinets.

base cabinets. In most cases

There’s no need for complicated or elegant joinery—

you will cut holes for these

not even the back dado I recommend for wall

after building the cabinets,

cabinets. And almost all the fasteners will be

but check for their locations

hidden once installed. So although cutting must be

precise and pieces must be aligned perfectly, the

as you plan.

actual process of fastening can go very quickly.

If you are building with face frames, you’ll want to

A standard base cabinet

review chapter 5.

with one drawer and one

Drawer bodies are included in this chapter

door is identifi ed with the

because drawers are usually found only in base

letter B followed by the

cabinets. Since drawer faces are essentially small

doors, they will be covered in the next chapter.

cabinet’s width. A drawer

base (with three or four

Getting Ready

drawers) is referred to as DB

and a sink base, which has

Follow the tips in chapter 1 for carefully planning

doors but no drawer, is SB.

the size and placement of all the base cabinets. Be

So for instance, DB18 is an

sure the cabinet doors will be able to open next to

18-in.-wide drawer base and

the range, dishwasher, and walls as well as at any

B24 is a 24-in.-wide base

corners. Decide how you will fi nish the cabinets

and perhaps apply the fi nish before you assemble

cabinet with one drawer.

the cabinets or purchase prefi nished plywood.

105

BASE CABINET HEIGHTS

Two options, depending on the thickness of the countertop and the height of the toekick.

3⁄4 in.

11⁄2 in.

Countertop

313⁄4 in.

30 in.

Cabinet

36 in.

31⁄2 in.

41⁄2 in.

Toekick

Floor

BASE CABINET DIMENSIONS

The frame will add 3⁄4 in. of thickness. If you build

There are a number of variables that will determine

with a 1⁄4-in. plywood back (with its edge exposed,

the size of your base cabinets.

so it adds to the depth of the cabinet), subtract

1

Height. Base cabinet height depends on the

⁄4 in. from the width of the cabinet sides. If your

height of the toekick and the thickness of the

countertop is wider or narrower than 25 in., adjust

countertop, as shown in “Base Cabinet Heights”

the depth of the cabinets accordingly.

above. Assuming you want the countertop to be

36 in. above the floor, subtract the thickness of the tip countertop (which may be anywhere from 3⁄4 in. to

Check each plywood or melamine sheet

11⁄2 in.) and the height of the toekick (usually 31⁄2 in.

carefully for dents, chips, and other

or 41⁄2 in.) from 36 in. to get your cabinet height.

damage. Usually, with careful planning

Depth. Assuming a standard countertop depth

an imperfect area can be hidden—for

of 25 in., total base cabinet depth is usually 241⁄2 in.,

including the thickness of the door. So a frameless

instance, by placing it at the outside

base cabinet is typically 233⁄4 in. deep and a

back of a side or at the bottom or top.

face-frame base cabinet is typically 23 in. deep.

106 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

CUT LIST AND CHART FOR BASE CABINETS

5 5⁄8"

30"

30"

30"

Back

231⁄2"

Side

Side

221⁄2"

Bottom

Side (for

Side (for

231⁄

221⁄

2"

2"

another cabinet)

another cabinet)

223⁄4"

B24

• Two 231⁄2" by 30" for sides

• One 221⁄2" by 30" for back

• One 221⁄2" by 223⁄4" for bottom

BASE CABINET WITH NOTCHED SIDES

CUT LISTS AND CUT CHARTS

As you would for wall cabinets, make drawings and

23 in.

cut lists for your base cabinets and plan how to cut

the pieces out of the sheets most efficiently. Sides

for base cabinets are a bit narrower than 24 in.,

which makes efficient use of 48-in.-wide sheets.

The illustration below shows a plan for cutting a

Side

single sheet to produce all the pieces for a B24

cabinet, plus two sides for another cabinet.

34 in.

3-in.

overhang

Base Options for

Base Cabinets

41⁄2 in.

Bottom

Bottom supports for base cabinets are often added

after the cabinet cases have been built, but you

need to plan for them ahead of time. Many older

base cabinet cases are made with notched sides

that reach down to the floor, as shown at right.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 107

Some cabinetmakers still build that way, but

the toekick space plus the 3⁄4-in. thickness of the

nowadays it’s more common to build a simple box

kick plate. Screw the legs along the line, and in the

to rest on supports. This is a quicker way to build

back as well, as shown in the photo at bottom left.

and install the cabinet and a more efficient use of

A corner cabinet like the one shown requires eight

expensive hardwood plywood. Usable space inside

legs; a standard base cabinet needs only four.

the cabinet remains the same.

Turn the legs so they are all at the same height,

and set the cabinet in place. To adjust cabinet

LEVELING LEGS

height and bring the cabinet level, screw or un-

You can buy inexpensive adjustable cabinet leveling

screw some of the legs. After installing the cabinet,

legs from online sources if your home center does

attach the provided clips to a kick plate and snap it

not carry them. To install them, draw a line parallel

in place (see the photo below).

to the front of the cabinet, at the desired depth of

With the kick plate installed, the

leveling legs will no longer show

underneath the cabinet.

tip Leveling legs with snap-

on kick plates allow you

to easily pull off a plate,

giving you easy access

Screw leveling legs in place on the bottom of the cabinet to to the space below the

raise the cabinet high enough to accommodate a toekick.

cabinet for adjusting

utility lines or for

cleaning. You may even

use the space behind

a kick plate to store

seldom-needed items.

108 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

tip

The kick plate that you attach

to the leveling legs or to the

face of a frame does not need

to fit snugly between the floor

and the bottom of the cabinet.

A gap at the top, of 1⁄2 in. or so,

will not be noticeable.

CONTINUOUS FRAME

The method outlined here makes it easy to install

a series of cabinets that are all level and at the

same height. Build a simple frame out of inexpen-

sive wood (see the photo at top right). If you want a

This simple toekick frame was built

31⁄2-in.-tall toekick, you can build simply using

out of 5/4 decking ripped 41⁄

2×4s. Build a frame with crosspieces every 16 in.

2 in.

wide. Using inexpensive wood for the

or so; there is no need to position the crosspieces

frame just makes sense because it

to support the sides of cabinets.

will not be seen. A finished piece of

Place the frame on the floor and use shims to

1× lumber underneath the cabinet will

bring it to level (see the photo at bottom right).

complete the look.

Attach the frame to the wall with screws and to

the floor with angle-driven screws. Place the

cabinets on top of the frame and check for level

and alignment. Remove the cabinets one at a time,

apply a bead of construction adhesive to the

tops of the frame, and set the cabinets in place.

Attach the cabinets to the wall and to each other.

Apply a finished piece of 1× lumber to complete

the kick plate.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 109

Frameless Base Cabinets

tip

If you are building with

Building base cabinets calls for many of the same

melamine, the design shown

cutting and fastening methods used for wall cab-

inets. You can simply drive screws for most of the

in “Frameless Base Cabinet

joints and use pocket screws where you don’t want

1” below left is better than

screw heads to show. There is no need to set the

the method shown “Frameless

back piece in a dado because weight placed in a

Base Cabinet 2” below right

base cabinet will not pull it away from the wall.

because 1⁄4-in. melamine is

We’ll first build a frameless cabinet, then a face-

prone to cracking, and 3⁄4-in.

frame cabinet.

melamine is inexpensive.

BUILDING THE CABINET

In the design shown in “Frameless Base Cabinet

1” below, the cabinet’s back as well as its sides

and bottom are made of 3⁄4-in.-thick sheet stock.

FRAMELESS BASE CABINET 2

The design shown in “Frameless Base Cabinet

2” at right has a 1⁄4-in. back, saving on materials if

1⁄4-in. plywood

you are using expensive hardwood plywood. In

back set in a

both designs, you will need a stretcher placed at

rabbet

the top and another positioned below it, 1⁄2 in. lower

1⁄

Stretchers

4-in. plywood back

FRAMELESS BASE CABINET 1

24 in.

All parts are 3⁄4-in. plywood.

Stretchers

Pocket-

Back

screw

24 in.

Pocket-screw

23 1

holes

221⁄2 in.

⁄

holes

2 in.

Side

Back

23 1⁄

30 in.

2 in.

22 3⁄4

Screw

in.

Side

heads

30 in.

22 3⁄

221⁄2 in.

4 in.

Floor frame made Set back 4 in.

Leveling

221⁄2 in.

of 5/4 lumber,

legs

Pocket screws

1 in. thick by

below

41⁄2 in.

110 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

than the height of the drawer you plan to install.

cut the sides, back, and bottom pieces. Cut the

You also will add a single stretcher in the top back.

two front stretchers, which can be anywhere from

You can set the cabinet on leveling legs or on a

3 in. to 7 in. wide. The rear stretcher can be made

continuous frame.

of scrap material because it won’t show. Apply

The following steps are for the first design but

edge-banding to the front edges of all the pieces

most of them apply to the second as well. To start,

except the rear stretcher.

PARTIAL-SHELF OPTION

Though it’s not as popular as it used to be, many people find that a partial-depth shelf in a base cabinet has accessibility advantages, making it easy to see and reach things in the back of the bottom shelf. Holes drilled for a partial-depth shelf will not interfere with other storage options such as a slide-out shelf, so cabinetmakers often provide the holes to leave the option open.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 111

1 Use a simple peg-

board jig and a drill

bit with a depth collar

(see p. 89) to drill a series

of holes for a half shelf in

the side pieces. Typically,

the front holes are posi-

tioned at about the center

of the side pieces to

accommodate a shelf that

is about two-thirds the

depth of the cabinet. Use

the pegboard guide on

one side piece, then flip

it over to drill holes in the

other side to mirror the

holes in the first piece.

3 Where a side will be exposed,

fasten with pocket screws from

the back (see pp. 64–65). Adjust

the drill depth carefully and drive

11⁄4-in. coarse-thread screws. Test

2

on scrap pieces to be sure the

Lay the bottom on a flat surface and attach the sides and

screws will fasten securely without

the back. Where a side will not show, simply drive screws.

poking through.

Check for square and feel with your finger to be sure pieces are aligned as you fasten. Drill pilot holes before driving screws or use self-tapping screws.

112 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

4 Install the top

front stretcher.

Cut a scrap piece that

is 1⁄2 in. longer than

the desired height

of the drawer and

clamp it below the top

stretcher as a spacer

when you attach the

bottom stretcher.

5 Attach a rear stretcher, which can be made of scrap ply- 6 Add leveling legs or build a wood, to make the cabinet rigid and to keep it square while continuous frame on the floor

it is being installed.

to raise the cabinet to the correct

height.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 113

FACE-FRAME BASE

CABINET DIMENSIONS

Face-Frame Base Cabinet

18 in.

3⁄4 in. by 4 in.

Building with a face frame is similar to building the

frameless base shown in the last section (in this

23 in.

example I’ll show a narrower cabinet for variety).

See chapter 5 for building face frames. Besides not

30 in.

having to apply edge-banding, there are two main

5 in.

differences: The sides will be 3⁄

Pocket-

4 in. narrower (see

screw

“Face-Frame Base Cabinet Dimensions” at right),

holes

and there is no need for a lower front stretcher for

the drawer; the face frame takes care of that.

Attach the face frame as you would for a wall

cabinet (see p. 101). Use pocket screws where the side of the cabinet will not show and glue and pin

nails where the side will show.

Adjustable

legs

1×2 face frame, 1⁄2 in.

wider than cabinet

BASE FACE FRAMES AND THE BOTTOM SHELF

The base cabinet’s bottom shelf should have its top

INSTALLING BASE CABINET

FACE-FRAMES AT THE BOTTOM

flush with the top of the bottom rail of the face frame,

so you can easily slide items in and out. However,

For clarity, the face frame parts are colored.

the face frame is usually thicker than the plywood

Bottom of

3⁄4-in. plywood

used for the bottom shelf. There are two ways to

face frame

bottom shelf

deal with this.

underhangs by

is raised 3⁄

1×2

4 in.

3⁄

1×2

4 in., so top of

above bottom

The face frame is often installed so it underhangs

face

face frame and

face

of side, so top

frame

frame

the cabinet, as shown at right. Assuming a 11⁄2-in.-

top of bottom

is flush with

wide face frame, it will underhang by 3⁄

shelf are flush.

face frame.

4 in. (If you use

wider stock for the face frame, this underhang will

of course be larger.) This method works well if your

Cutaway

Cutaway

base frame or leveling legs are, say, 41⁄2 in. or taller.

But if your base is a 2×4, then building with an under-

hanging face frame would create a toekick only

23⁄4 in. tall, which is uncomfortable. You may want to

41⁄2-in.-tall

2×4

raise the bottom shelf 3⁄4 in., as shown at far right.

base

base

33⁄4 in. 41⁄2 in.

to floor to floor

114 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

CORNER BASE CABINETS, TOP VIEW

36 in.

22 in.

Wall

18 in.

36 in.

111⁄4 in.

22 in.

36 in.

111⁄4 in.

291⁄2 in.

36 in.

18 in.

291⁄2 in.

12 in.

18 in.

12 in.

Wall

Corner Base Cabinet

at the corner. So it is common to build base corner

cabinets with a 90° front cutout.

As with a corner wall cabinet (see pp. 95–104), for

Such a cabinet can be equipped with a lazy

planning purposes a base cabinet needs to take

susan; the door front may be double-hinged to gain

up a certain amount of wall space—usually, 36 in.

easy access to the opening or the lazy susan itself

in each direction. However, corner base cabinets

may have an angled door that swings inside the

rarely extend all the way back to the wall.

cabinet when you rotate it.

Corner base cabinets are sometimes made with

This means that unlike with a corner wall cabinet

angled fronts like the wall corner cabinet shown on

with an angled front, you don’t need to do any fancy

p. 95. However, building that way means the coun-calculating when planning a base cabinet. The

tertop would also need to be angled—and would

illustrations above show two different base cabinet

therefore need to be wider than the standard 25 in.

designs in relation to the walls. As long as the front

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 115

cutout opening is the same dimension in both

directions, a base cabinet can slide into position

Large Frameless Base

and takes up 36 in. of wall space but is only

Corner Cabinet

18 in. deep.

The design shown here has plenty of space for a

Buy your lazy susan ahead of time or read its

large lazy susan. It’s angled in the back, to eliminate

installation manual carefully to be sure it will fit

dead space where things can fall off the lazy susan

into the cabinet you build. Make sure the cutout

and get lost.

opening is the correct size and that the inside

Fastening a lazy susan directly to the underside

dimensions are large enough.

of a countertop is an iffy proposition at best. So

one of the stretchers at the top is extra-wide, to

provide a fastening surface for a future lazy susan.

Consult manufacturer’s instructions to be sure

you will be able to securely install the unit you’ve

CORNER CABINET WITH SHELF

selected.

If you don’t mind bending over and maybe getting on

your knees to reach things or if you have storage items

that you need to get at only a couple times a year,

you could go with a shelf instead of a lazy susan. This

design, with a single shelf off to one side, makes it

relatively easy to reach into the back corner, and allows

for storing tall objects on one side.

Shelf

1 Cut a base piece square and large enough

for your purposes. Here, the base is 33 in. sq.

Mark for a cutout in front that will give you plenty

of access and will be the correct size for your lazy

susan or shelf, if any. Also mark for an angled cut

in back; again, make sure your shelf or lazy susan

will fit. Remember that after the sides are installed,

the overall cabinet size will be 11⁄2 in. wider in each

direction than the base. For the project shown

Leveling legs

1×2 face frame

here, the sheet to be used for the base is placed

next to white pieces of melamine, representing the

wall, to confirm it fits within a 36-in. wall space.

116 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

FRAMELESS BASE CORNER CABINET

Ready for lazy susan

18 in.

22 in.

18 in.

22 in.

Angled back

22 in.

Back

Wide

221⁄2 in.

Bottom

stretcher

111⁄4 in.

111⁄4 in.

22 in.

30 in. or

111⁄4 in.

303⁄4 in.

111⁄4 in.

Smaller

221⁄2 in.

Side

stretcher

33 in.

23 1⁄4 in.

(Cut the bottom first then

231⁄4 in.

cut the other pieces to fit

111⁄4 in.

around it.)

2 The large angle

cut may be difficult

to make on a tablesaw,

so clamp a straight

piece to act as a guide

and cut with a circu-

lar saw. Cut the front

notch in the same way

or with a tablesaw.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 117

3

4 Assemble each side-and-back combination.

Cut the side pieces and two of the back

Support one of the pieces and check for

pieces (but not the angled back yet) to fit.

square as you drive the screws.

Apply edge-banding to the front cutout of the

base and the forward edges of the sides.

5 Set the bottom on

a flat surface and

attach each side-and-

back combination with

screws. Check that the

edge-banded surfaces

are flush with each other

as you fasten.

118 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

6 Measure for the angled back and cut it at a

45° bevel on each side.

7 Fasten the angled back with screws driven

at slight angles, as shown. The screw heads

will not drive flush, but that doesn’t matter be-

cause they will be in dead space at the back of

the cabinet.

tip

8 Cut a wide stretcher, the same length as the

base, and fasten with screws on each side.

After marking the wide stretcher

Cut a smaller stretcher the same length as the

in Step 8, you may find it easier to

front cutout. Make a mark on the wide stretcher to

remove the wide stretcher and drill

show where to attach the small stretcher, to en-

the pocket holes on a worktable, then

sure the pieces will mirror the cutout in the base

replace the wide stretcher and drive

piece. Fasten the small stretcher to the cabinet

the pocket screws.

side with screws and to the wide stretcher with

pocket screws.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 119

FACE-FRAME CORNER BASE CABINET

28 in.

28 3

Cleat

⁄4 in.

her

Stretc

Back

Side

30 in.

17 3⁄4 in.

173⁄4 in.

28 in.

28 in.

Bottom

17 in.

11 in.

11 in.

1×2 face frame

41⁄2-in.-tall

17 in.

base frame

Building a Face-Frame

tip

For this cabinet, the exact

Corner Base Cabinet

dimensions of the opening

A face-frame corner base cabinet is built very much

are not critical (as long as

like a frameless one. The example shown here

is only 17 in. deep, which is smaller than the one

they are the same in each

shown in previous pages. It can be made out of a

direction). You could either

single sheet of plywood or melamine.

build the face frame first

Cut the bottom to the size needed for your lazy

or build the cabinet and then

susan or shelf, keeping in mind that the face frame

make the face frame to fit.

will make the opening a bit smaller. Working on a

flat surface, fasten the sides, then the back pieces.

To the back, attach a cleat at the top to one side

only. Cut and install a stretcher wide enough to

120 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

provide a fastening surface for your lazy susan, if

A drawer face, made to coordinate visually with the

you will have one.

cabinet doors, will be installed later (see chapter 8).

If you haven’t already done so, build a face frame

To determine the drawer’s width, check the

following “Face-Frame Corner Base Cabinet”

instructions for the drawer glides you plan to install.

on the facing page. Cut the horizontal rails 3⁄4 in.

Inexpensive nylon-runner glides take up 1⁄2 in. on

shorter on one side than the other, so the finished

each side, so the drawer body should be 1 in.

opening will be the same in both directions. Fasten

narrower than the opening. Ball-bearing glides

the rails to the stiles with pocket screws and

generally take up half the space, allowing for wider

fasten the rails to each other at the inside corner

drawers that are 1⁄2 in. narrower than the opening. If

by drilling pilot holes and driving screws from the

you use side-mounted glides (the most common

back. Use pocket screws to attach the frame to the

type), the drawer body should be at least 1⁄2 in.

stretcher, the sides, and the bottom. One rail can

shorter than the opening.

run unsupported at the top.

The most common drawer depth (that is, its hori-

zontal length) is 22 in., though it can be a bit longer

Drawer Bodies

or shorter. Again, check your glide hardware.

Drawers are used and abused many thousands

A drawer body is a simple box that fits into a base

of times and so need to be reliably rigid and

cabinet opening that is created by the face frame

sturdily built. Most designs feature a combination

or by stretchers in the case of a frameless cabinet.

of snug-fitting dado joinery and carefully driven

screws to achieve durability.

POCKET-SCREW DRAWER

Three pocket-

screw holes

Drawer face,

Pocket screws

3

22 in.

⁄4 in. by 20 in.

in back

by 7 in.

15 in.

Back

1⁄4-in. plywood

Front and

bottom

Two Sides

All sides are 1⁄

in.

2-in.

43⁄4 in.

1 ⁄2

plywood and are

213⁄

15

51⁄

4 in.

2 in. tall, with a

rounded edge at

Front

top and a 1⁄4-in.

Side

by 1⁄4-in. groove

(dado), 1⁄4 in. from

18 in.

bottom (plywood

22 in.

bottom fits in

15 in.

grooves).

1⁄2 in.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 121

tip

Kitchen drawer bodies are usually

made of 1⁄2-in.-thick stock. Though

solid hardwood can be used, 1⁄2-in.

Baltic birch is the material of choice for

many cabinetmakers. It will not crack;

it resists warping; and because there

are no voids between plies, its edges

can be sanded and finished attractively.

Building a Pocket-Screw

Drawer Body

The method shown in this section makes quick

work of drawer building. As “Pocket-Screw Drawer”

on p. 121 shows, the 1⁄

1 Rip-cut the stock to the desired width (1⁄2 in.

4-in. plywood bottom fits into

shorter than the opening’s height). Sand the

a dado on three sides, pocket screws attach the

edges smooth. For a more finished look, use a

sides to each other, and the back of the drawer

router with a roundover bit to finish the top edge.

is rip-cut and fastened from below with nails or

screws driven through the bottom.

tip

See pp. 61–62 for

routing the dado

for 1⁄4-in. plywood.

Because some

plywood boards

are slightly thinner

than 1⁄4 in., you

may need a 7⁄32-in.

bit if you are using a

router table.

2 Use a router table to rout a dado for the plywood bottom or cut the dado with two or more passes using a tablesaw

(see p. 88). The groove is 1⁄4 in. above the bottom of the stock and just wide enough for the plywood bottom to fit snugly.

122 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

3 Cut the pieces.

The two sides

are the length of the

drawer body and the

front and back are 1 in.

shorter than the width.

Stacking and cutting,

as shown, is an easy

way to cut two boards

to the same length.

4 Rip-cut the back piece along the top of the 5 Keep the parts organized and mark them to be dado, so it can sit on top of the plywood bot-sure they will be installed in the correct order.

tom and be the same height as the sides.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 123

6 Set the pocket-screw bit to the correct length for attaching 1⁄2-in. stock. You will use 1-in. coarse screws. Drill three fairly evenly spaced pocket holes on either side of the front and back pieces.

tip When working with

1⁄2-in. stock, pocket

joinery must be precise

or the screws can

produce unattractive

protrusions. Before

you actually build a

drawer, practice on

scrap pieces until you

are sure the drill bit

is set to precisely the

correct depth and

you can make clean-

7 Using a right-angle clamp, as shown, drive pocket screws to attach the front to the sides. Check for square as you go, looking, firm joints.

but the clamp should keep things pretty straight and installing the bottom (Step 9) will effectively square the drawer.

8 Cut the plywood bottom to fit,

taking special care to keep it

perfectly square on all four sides.

Cut it about 1⁄16 in. shorter and nar-

rower than the opening; one way to

do this is to cut through the middle

of the cut line, as shown.

124 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

10 Apply glue, taking care not to glue the

bottom, and fasten the back with pocket

9

screws.

Slide the bottom into the grooves from the

back toward the front. The bottom should fit

snugly and only gentle tapping should be needed.

12 Once you are certain the drawer is

square, turn the drawer over and

fasten the bottom to the back with small

screws. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting.

tip

If the drawer is not square, you

may be able to tap one corner

(using a block to prevent

11 Make a final check for square by measuring

the diagonals; they should be exactly the

marring the wood) to align it.

same length.

If that doesn’t work, remove

and recut the bottom.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 125

Mitered Drawer

Using miters is simplicity itself and creates a

drawer body with a crisp, clean appearance. If you

execute the joints carefully, with pilot holes just the

right size and driven nice and straight, the result will

be durable.

Start by rip-cutting 1⁄2-in. stock to the desired

height of the drawer body. Sand the edges smooth

and, if desired, rout the top edge with a roundover

bit; a rounded top looks particularly attractive on a

miter-jointed box.

1 Use a tablesaw or a power miter saw to cut

45° bevels on both sides of all four pieces.

Each piece is cut to the desired length or width of

the drawer.

tips

If a local hardwood supplier sells precut

drawer sides, as shown on p. 42, buying them will save you the trouble of rip-cutting,

making dadoes, routing, and sanding. They

come only in certain sizes, so be sure the

cabinet opening will accommodate them.

2 To mark the drawer bottom for cutting, slip

the bottom into the dadoes of a side piece

and either the front or back and draw a cut line

It is critical for this design that all the miter

that is about 1⁄16 in. short of the end of the dado,

cuts be precise. Test each cut for square.

as shown. Cut the bottom on a tablesaw, making

You may want to clamp the piece in place

sure it is perfectly square.

when cutting with a miter saw to prevent

wandering.

126 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

4 At each corner, use a corner clamp to keep

the sides aligned as you drill three pilot holes

through the front or back and into a side piece.

3 After you’ve cut the bottom, test-assemble the

five pieces to be sure they fit. If a joint cannot

be pushed together tightly, you may need to recut

tip

the bottom. Measure the diagonals to be sure the

If a board jumps out of align-

box is square.

ment while you drill a pilot

hole, do not use that hole; drill

another one nearby.

5 For each joint, disassemble, apply glue, and

drive 15⁄8-in. square-drive trim-head screws to

produce a tight joint.

6 Wipe away most of the squeezed-out glue

immediately. Allow the glue to dry, then sand the

edges smooth.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 127

Routered Drawer

Routing is a classic way to build drawers that has

On each side piece, cut a 1⁄2-in.-wide rabbet in

proven itself over the decades. This type of drawer

the front inside edge and a 1⁄2-in.-wide dado in the

can be easy to build if you have the equipment to

back, 1⁄2 in. from the back of the piece. Cut the

quickly make dadoes and rabbets. If you start with

1⁄4-in. plywood bottom to fit in the grooves, with

precut drawer sides (see p. 42), you need make

1⁄16 in. to spare in each direction, for expansion.

only 1⁄2-in.-wide dadoes and rabbets.

Test the assembly; all the pieces should fit snugly

Rip-cut and dado the 1⁄2-in. drawer stock. Cut the

but not too tightly. Disassemble, apply glue to the

sides to the desired length of the drawer, and cut

joints, reassemble, and drive three finish nails into

the front and back to the desired width, minus 1⁄2 in.

each joint.

ROUTERED DRAWER BOX

All sides are 1⁄2-in. plywood.

Horizontal dadoes in

Vertical dadoes, 1⁄

all four pieces, 1⁄2 in.

4 in.

deep by 1⁄

up from the bottom,

2 in.

1⁄4 in. by 1⁄4 in.

Vertical rabbets in

front of two side

pieces, 1⁄4 in. deep

by 1⁄2 in. wide

Side

in.

1 ⁄2

15

1⁄4-in. plywood bottom

Back

in.

1 ⁄2

21 in.

15

Front

1⁄2 in.

in.

1 ⁄2

15

Side

Front and back are 1⁄2 in.

22 in.

shorter than overall width.

Sides are total length of

drawer box.

128 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

Drawer with

Locking Joint

This section details a time-honored joinery method

Before working on a drawer, test your skills on

that was once primarily made by hand or with a

scrap pieces of 1⁄2-in. stock until you are sure you

tablesaw, but a special router bit makes it easier.

can produce tight joints.

With the use of a drawer-lock router bit you can

Start by ripping the stock to the desired height of

make tight-fitting joints at all four corners of the

the drawer. Rout a groove for the drawer bottom.

drawer box. The effect will be subtle but distinctive.

tip

Be sure to buy a drawer-lock

router bit that will work with

1⁄2-in. stock; some types work

only with thicker boards.

1 The drawer-lock bit comes with a spacer 2 Cut grooves in the ends of the side pieces block for quickly adjusting the router bit height

first. Use a featherboard or press steadily to

and the fence position. Use it to set the router bit

achieve a groove that is consistent in depth. You

at 3⁄8 in. above the table (top). Then use the same

can do this cut in one pass. Keep the router bit at

tool to position the fence (above).

the same height for the remaining heights.

B a s e C a b i n et s a n d D r awe r B o d i e s 129

4 The last pass for the groove on the face and

back pieces should cut a groove exactly 1⁄2 in.

deep. Hold a piece of stock as shown to measure

for the correct depth.

tip

If you don’t have a spacer block, you

can use a straightedge along with a

scrap of 3⁄8-in.-thick plywood or a tape

3 Cut both ends of both the face and back

pieces. This is a deeper cut, so you may

measure to set the bit at 3⁄8 in. above

need to move the fence slightly toward you, rout

the table and the fence at 3⁄8 in. behind

the groove, then turn off the router and follow

the forward-most part of the bit.

Step 4 to position the fence for the final cut.

5 Cut both sides of the face and back pieces to

the final groove depth of 1⁄2 in., as shown in

Step 4. The finished pieces should fit together neatly

and tightly.

130 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

CHAPTER

doors and drawer faces

CERTAINLY THE most visible parts of kitchen

8

cabinets—and even the most visible elements of

FRAME-AND-PANEL JOINERY DETAILS

the kitchen as a whole—are the cabinet doors and

drawer faces. The cabinet cases and drawer bodies

Rail

are generally plain and boxy, to maximize their stor-

age capacity. The doors and drawer faces express

the overall style of your work.

The most common doors are made with frames

Cope profi le

and panels. This style of construction is more com-

plicated. But this chapter will show you how to build

a variety of styles for the frames. If you choose

Stick profi le

raised panels, you will probably need a router and

router table. Plywood panels are much simpler.

Building frames and panels calls for careful joinery.

If you are doing this for the fi rst time, you will fi nd

Raised-panel profi le

yourself learning a good number of new tech-

niques. Allocate plenty of time, so you can enjoy the

process rather than feel harried.

In addition to standard frame-and-panel doors,

I’ll show a few approaches that are defi nitely

easier. For instance, slab doors are simplicity itself,

cottage-style doors can be made quickly, and there

Raised panel

Stile

is even a type of frame-and-panel door that can be

made with a tablesaw only—no router required.

Panel edge in groove

of stick profi le

131

TYPICAL DIMENSIONS

Edge detail cut with raised-panel bit

Stile

3⁄

1⁄

4 in. to 7⁄8 in.

4 in.

Rail

3⁄8 in.

Planning Frame-and-

Panel Doors

DOOR FACES THAT

HARMONIZE

A frame-and-panel door is composed of a center

If a drawer face is narrower (shorter) than

panel and a surrounding frame made with two verti-

cal stiles and two horizontal rails. Usually, the stiles

8 in., it usually looks best to make it out of

are as long as the door is tall; the rails fit between

1× material that matches the door panels.

the stiles. The panel may be made of plywood,

Rout the edges with the same bit used to

which is usually 1⁄4 in. thick (or slightly thinner), or it rout the outside of the door frames or a bit

can be a raised panel made of thicker stock.

specifically made for drawer edges. (Do

this even if your door panels are plywood.)

UNDERSTANDING THE PARTS

You could also choose to build wider

Rails and stiles as well as raised panels are gen-

erally made of material that is 3⁄

drawer faces with frames and panels that

4 in. to 7⁄8 in. thick.

If you buy dimensional 1× lumber from a home

match the doors.

center or lumberyard, it should be consistently

3⁄4 in. thick. If you buy from a hardwood supplier,

the thickness may vary. It's important that all the

parts (not including a plywood panel, if you are

using that) be the same thickness. If necessary, use

tip

a thickness planer, as shown on p. 29, to mill the

A flat Shaker-style door can be

parts as needed for consistent thickness.

On a raised panel, the edges are routed to pro-

made with a tablesaw only; no

duce a decorative profile on the perimeter. This pro-

routing is required. See p. 138.

file ends at a thickness of 1⁄4 in., or slightly thinner,

to fit into a routed groove on the inside edge of the

frame pieces.

132 Doors and Drawer Faces

Two different routed profi les allow the stiles,

There are four profi le choices to make:

rails, and panels to fi t together. The stick profi le, cut

• For the frame, choose a set of matching router

along the inside edge of both the stiles and rails,

bits that produce stick and cope profi les that fi t

includes a groove into which the panel can fi t. The

together. See “Common Stick and Cope Profi les

ends of the rails also have a cope profi le, which for Frame-and-Panel Doors” below for the most

nests neatly into the stick profi le of the stiles.

popular styles.

CHOOSING THE PROFILES

• Decide on the look of the door’s perimeter. You

The look of frame-and-panel doors is determined

may decide to leave it squared off and unrouted,

by the router profi les you choose as well as the

which is the usual choice for Shaker doors. Or

width of the frame parts.

you may just slightly round over the perimeter.

COMMON STICK (A) AND COPE (B) PROFILES FOR FRAME-AND-PANEL DOORS

A

B

A

B

A

B

A

B

Ogee

Quarter-round

Bead

Shaker

PROFILES FOR RAISED PANELS

Cove

Flat with Shoulder

Ogee

Shaker with Back Cutter

Cove with Back Cutter

Ogee with Back Cutter

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 133

Or select a router bit that harmonizes with the

appearance of the stick profile.

ROUTER SPEEDS AND

THE RIGHT ROUTER

• Also choose the profile for the raised panel

(unless you will use plywood panels). Be sure the

The wider a router, the slower it should spin. If a bit

panel will fit into the groove of the stick profile

spins faster than the recommended speed, it will likely

on the frame. For the best appearance, select a

burn the wood or cause chipping or tearout. Some

bit with a back cutter; this allows the panel’s face

bits come with literature telling you the recommended

to be on the same plane as the frame, rather

than recessed.

speed, but many do not, so here are some general

guidelines.

• Finally, select a profile for the perimeter of

the drawer faces. This may exactly match the

RECOMMENDED SPEEDS

profile of the door perimeters or it may be less

Bit

pronounced, but it should be in a design that

Maximum

Diameter Speed

harmonizes with the doors.

1 in. (25mm)

24,000 rpm

11⁄4 in. to 2 in. (30mm to 50mm)

18,000 rpm

FRAME WIDTH

21⁄4 in. to 21⁄2 in. (55mm to 65mm)

16,000 rpm

The frame’s rails and stiles can range from 11⁄2 in.

3 in. to 31⁄2 in. (75mm to 90mm)

12,000 rpm

to 21⁄2 in. wide. This is a matter of personal taste.

However, you may want to simplify door calcula-

Because you will be using bits of various diameters,

tions by choosing a frame width that is, say, the

width of the cope profile plus an even 1 in. or 2 in.

you need a variable-speed router for this type of work.

If you plan to build a door with a curved top stile,

And to cut at lower speeds, the router should be

that piece will of course need to be wider.

powerful—at least 21⁄4 hp. (If your router is not variable speed, you may be able to use a vertical panel-raising

bit, as shown on p. 136.)

tip

It’s difficult to describe the

decorative effects of various

router profiles, but here’s a stab

at it. Ogee and bead profiles

are fairly Victorian and have an

old-fashioned appeal. Quarter-

round and cove profiles are more

modern and are sometimes

considered Craftsman or Deco in

appearance. Shaker style, which

is unrouted, has simple, clean-

looking lines that may look

modern or cottagey, depending

on the finish of the wood.

134 Doors and Drawer Faces

BUYING ROUTER BIT SETS

Buy router bit sets at a woodworking store

or from online sources. Be sure to check

customer reviews before you buy. Many

inexpensive bits will dull quickly and may not

even cut well the first time. But don’t assume

you have to buy the most expensive: Some

mid-priced bits can give years of clean cuts.

• If you're using plywood panels, you need a

minimum of two matched bits, one for the stick

cut and one for the cope cut. You may also

want a bit or two to rout the perimeter of the

doors and the drawer fronts.

• A three-bit set typically routs the stick and

• A six-bit set can be a good value. In

cope cuts as well as a raised panel. In some

addition to the stick, cope, and raised

cases you can use the stick bit to rout the door

panel bits, it may include both a drawer

and drawer face perimeters as well. Or you

front and a door edge bit as well as a pat-

may buy one or two additional bits for those

tern cutting bit for making arch-top doors.

elements.

CHOOSING LUMBER

For general tips on selecting boards and plywood

sheets, see chapter 3. It’s important that your

lumber be straight and dry. Boards should have a

moisture content of 15% or lower; otherwise, they

can warp and shrink after installation. Sight along

the length of a board to ensure that it is flat along

its length. Also use a straightedge along its width

to check for cupping. If a board is seriously cupped,

either do not buy it or plan to thickness plane it.

A pin-type moisture tester gives a fairly accurate

indication of a board’s moisture content.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 135

CALCULATING PART SIZES

ger and wider than the inside of the cabinet opening.

Sizing door parts can get complicated, so take the

If you want your doors to overlay the cabinet frame

time to double-check your figures before you start

by more or less, be sure to take that into account.

cutting the pieces.

Stiles. This is simple. The stiles are cut exactly to

Overall door size. First, determine the overall size

the desired height of the door.

of the door. Nowadays most doors are full overlay,

Rails. These are the most complicated to figure.

meaning they are larger than the cabinet’s openings

Rails fit between the stiles, so their length depends

and partially cover the cabinet’s frame (or, in the

on the width of the stiles as well as the length of

case of a frameless cabinet, they partially cover the

the cope cut’s tenon (its longest part) on each end

cabinet’s front edges). A 1⁄2-in. overlay on all four

of the rails. Make a cope cut on a scrap piece and

sides is common; it means the door will be 1 in. lon-

measure its length, as shown below.

This cope cut’s tenon (its longest part) is 7⁄16 in. long. That means the pieces for the rails will be cut 7⁄8 in. (2 × 7⁄16 in.) longer than the distance between the stiles.

VERTICAL PANEL-RAISING BITS

If your router is not variable speed, you may still

Fence

be able to use it for a raised-panel door. Vertical

Workpiece

Cutter

panel-raising bits do not require a variable-speed

router. First, make sure that the stick and cope bits

Table

are of the recommended diameter for your router’s

speed (see “Router Speeds and the Right Router”

Shank

on p. 134). Then find a vertical panel-raising bit that works with your router’s speed.

136 Doors and Drawer Faces

tip You may be able to simplify your

calculations when you choose the

width of your stiles. For instance, if

the stick cut’s tenon will be 7⁄16 in.

long, rip-cut stiles that are 27⁄16 in.

wide. That would make your “magic

number” simply 4: Cut the rails to

the width of the door, minus 4 in.

Easy peasy! Alternatively, cut a scrap

piece to twice the tenon length and

use it when measuring rails.

To measure the depth of a groove, insert a piece

of plywood or other thin wood into the groove,

scribe a line, pull out the plywood, and measure.

Once you know the length of the cope cut, here’s

For example, if a door is 27 in. tall, the rails are

the formula:

21⁄4 in. wide, and the groove is 1⁄4 in. deep, the panel

Width of the door − Width of both stiles +

height will be 2215⁄16 in.:

Length of both cope cut tenons = Rail length

27 in. (overall height) − 41⁄2 in. (2 × rail width) +

For example, if a door is 18 in. wide, the stiles are

1⁄2 in. (2 × groove depth) − 1⁄16 in. (for ease of fit)

21⁄

= 2215⁄16 in. (panel height)

4 in. wide, and the cope cut tenons are 7⁄16 in.

long, the rail length will be 143⁄8 in. long:

18 in. (overall width) − 41⁄2 in. (2 × width of the

Sorting and Listing

stiles) + 7⁄8 in. (2 × cope cut tenon length) =

143⁄8 in. (rail length)

Even a modest-size kitchen will have quite a few

doors and drawer fronts, so start by getting

Panels. Cabinet doors are typically built so the

organized. Use the calculations on this page to

panel has room to expand in width during times

create a cut list:

of high humidity. That means the panel should be

1⁄8 in. narrower and shorter than the distance from

• Figure the overall sizes and add up all of your

groove to groove in each direction. And it means

doors and drawer faces.

the panel width is the length of the rails minus

• Determine the width of all your rails and stiles.

1⁄8 in. However, if a panel is wider than 18 in., most

Figure the lengths (remember, stiles are the ex-

cabinetmakers allow for a greater gap—from

act height of the doors and the rails are shorter).

3⁄16 in. to 1⁄4 in.

Wood barely expands lengthwise, along its grain.

• Determine the number and sizes of the panels.

That means the height of the panel is the distance

If they will be plywood, make cut charts so as to

from rail groove to rail groove. However, 1⁄

get the most panels possible out of each sheet.

16 in. is

often subtracted from the height to ensure an easy

Unless you will paint, all panels should be cut

fit. Follow this formula:

with the grain running vertically.

Door height − (2 × Rail width) + (2 × Groove

• If your panels will be raised, making a cut list

depth) − 1⁄16 in. = Panel height

is more complicated. You’ll need to find out the

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 137

widths of the boards you will use (these can vary,

especially if you get boards of various widths from

a hardwood supplier). Plan for boards with grain

patterns that look good together side by side. Also

try to reduce waste as much as possible.

• Plan your drawer faces. These will be of various

sizes, and some may be simple routed slabs

while others may be frame and panel.

Shaker Doors

with a Tablesaw

Shaker doors with plywood panels, which might be

the most popular style of cabinet door these days,

1 Cut the two stiles and two rails to length,

following the calculation guidelines on p. 137.

can be made without a router or router table. An

(You could also make this cut using a tablesaw.)

accurate-cutting tablesaw is all you need. You can

also make a raised panel using only a tablesaw

(see pp. 151–153).

tips

In most kitchens, the great majority of

doors are of two sizes—one for base

cabinets and one for wall cabinets.

If you find the task of planning all

the panel pieces and matching grain

patterns confusing, you may choose to

cut most of the pieces for each size door,

then shuffle the pieces around until you

2 To cut the groove for the panel with a stan-

dard tablesaw blade, mark the middle of a

get the best looking arrangement.

rail’s or stile’s thickness. (In this example, the

board is 13⁄16 in. thick; the center mark is between

The cope cut (or tenon) measurement

3⁄8 in. and 7⁄16 in.) Raise the tablesaw’s blade to

is the length of the tenon (which is

a height of 3⁄4 in. You can use a piece of 3⁄4-in.

also the depth of the groove). In our

plywood to make this measurement. (Don’t use

example, that is 3⁄

a piece of rail or stile material unless it is exactly

4 in. on each side, so

3⁄

you cut the rails to the overall width of

4 in. thick.)

the door minus twice the width of the

stiles plus twice the length of the tenon,

or 11⁄2 in.

138 Doors and Drawer Faces

3 Do this first with a scrap board the same fence and firmly down on the table as you cut a thickness as your rails and stiles. Don’t cut

groove all the way through. Turn the board end to

the groove on the real framing pieces until you are end and cut again the same way (middle). If there certain of the fence position. Set the tablesaw’s is a sliver remaining in the middle, place a thin

fence so the blade cuts on one side of the cen-

spacer against the fence and cut the sliver

ter mark (left). Press the board tightly against the

out (right).

tip

The width of the groove depends on the thickness

of the plywood. Standard 1⁄4-in. plywood is

usually thinner than an actual quarter inch. In

this example, I use Baltic birch plywood, which is

a full 1⁄4 in. thick.

You may be able to cut

4 Slip a piece of the plywood you will use into

the groove using a dado

the groove you just cut. It should be snug, but

blade set, with two blades

not so tight that you need to hammer hard to force

only. With the set I’m

it in. If the groove is too narrow, move the saw’s

using, two blades with

fence ever so slightly away from the blade and cut

the required spacers

the same groove again. If the groove is too wide,

make a groove just the

move the fence slightly in toward the blade and

right thickness for 1⁄4-in.

cut a new board. Keep experimenting until you get

Baltic birch.

the fence in the precise position to cut the perfect-

size groove.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 139

5 To cut the tenons on the ends of the rails, in-

stall a set of dado blades on your tablesaw.

Remove the standard blade and follow the manu-

facturer’s instructions for installing an outer blade,

spacers, inner chippers with spacers, and another

outer blade. Make the total thickness of the dado

setup no thicker than the tenon (in this case, 3⁄4 in.).

6 Clamp a board to the side of the fence, so the

dado blades cannot hit the metal fence. Raise

the blades so they will cut just to the bottom of the

groove (above). Measure and set the fence so as to

cut a tenon the desired length (right).

140 Doors and Drawer Faces

tip If your dado set produces a cut

that is a bit jagged, you may need

to recut as you push the board in

and out from the fence in order to

smooth it out. Keep the board flat

on the table and aligned with the

square wood block as you do this.

7 Again, follow these instructions on scrap

boards the same thickness as the door frame

and cut tenons on the actual rails only after the

fence is precisely aligned at the correct position.

To cut the tenons, hold a rail perpendicular to the

fence and use a square wood block with a push

tool as shown to cut each side of the tenon.

8

9 Cut the plywood panel so it is 1⁄4 in. narrower

Assemble the frame pieces and check that the

and shorter than the distance from groove to

frame is the correct size and is square.

groove. If the groove is 3⁄4 in. deep, the plywood

should be 11⁄4 in. wider and longer than the inside

of the frame. (In the photo, the cut plywood is

5⁄8 in. wider than the inside dimension.)

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 141

10 Dry-fit the panel

and frame

pieces and check

for correct size, tight

joints, and square. Dis-

assemble and apply

glue to the rail tenons

only. Do not get glue

on the panel because

it needs to be able to

expand and contract

slightly with changes in

humidity. Fit the pieces

back together and

clamp the two ends

with medium pressure

only; clamping too

tightly will squeeze out

too much glue.

11 Drive a couple

of 5⁄8-in. pin

nails into each joint

from each side. Many

cabinetmakers skip

this step, but it adds

firmness.

142 Doors and Drawer Faces

Routing Rails and Stiles

tip

Rails and stiles can be routed to accept either a

Most cabinetmakers cut

plywood or a raised panel. As long as you use a

the copes first, then the

matching set of router bits and cut at the same

stick profiles, but some do

level, the cope and stick joints will fit together

neatly. It’s a very good idea to practice on scrap

it the other way round.

pieces until you get the knack.

1 Raise the bit to the right height and position 2 To minimize tearout at the end of the cut, use the fence so it is flush with the bit’s bearing.

a sacrificial backer board. The backer board

On this bit, the bearing is in the middle of the two

should be cut square, to help align the rail. Push

cutters.

the rail through in one smooth stroke. Cut both

cope cuts for both rails.

BIT GAUGES

Some router bit manufacturers offer bit

gauges, which make it easy to get your

bits to the correct height. The gauge seen

here, by Sommerfeld, can be adjusted to

cut boards of various thicknesses and it

fits with eight different profiles.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 143

MATCHING HEIGHTS

To line up the stick-cutting router with the

cope cut, it often helps to align its cutter

with the tongue of the cope cut.

3 Set up the stick bit and the fence so it aligns

with the cope cut. Then cut scrap pieces and

make adjustments until you get a stick profile that

matches the cope. Rout the inside edges of the

rails and stiles.

ROOM FOR

EXPANSION

To keep the panel

firmly in place while

at the same time

permitting it to expand

and contract, place

special foam strips

like these in the

grooves of the rails

and stiles. Another

option is to use Space

Balls® (spaceballs

4 Dry-fit the four pieces to see that they fit well.

If you are installing a plywood panel, cut it to

.com), which are

size (1⁄8 in. short in both directions) and assemble

pretty much the same

the door. If you are installing a raised panel, see

“Jointing and Gluing Up Raised Panels” on p. 146.

thing, only spherical.

144 Doors and Drawer Faces

OTHER PROFILE POSSIBILITIES

Here are two popular frame-and-panel

door configurations. The door made with

ogee bits (top) has a rounded outer edge

on the frame. The cove door (bottom) in

this example has a panel made from MDF.

5 To assemble a door, apply glue to the cope

cuts only. Be sure not to get glue on the panel

because it needs to be able to expand and con-

tract slightly with changes in humidity. Check for

square and clamp the frame in two places. For a

firm joint, clamp with light to medium pressure, so

you don’t squeeze out all the glue.

tip

To permit the panel to move inside

the frame, ideally the panel and

the frame will each be separately

coated with finish and allowed to

dry before assembly. In practice,

that can be difficult to achieve.

But you may be able to apply a

finish, or part of a finish, to one or

more components before assembly

(see p. 162).

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 145

Jointing and Gluing Up

Raised Panels

tip

A hardwood supplier will

You can skip this section if you plan to use plywood

often smooth one edge

panels or if you will be making a raised panel

of its boards for free.

from MDF. You can sometimes make narrow door

However, this usually

panels out of a single wide piece of lumber. Often,

means smoothing only

however, you will need to glue two or more pieces

and not jointing. So

side by side. Choose boards that look good next to

each other.

unless the board was

very straight to begin

PANELS THAT ARE FLAT

with, you may need to

If you start with lumber that is flat across its width

joint anyway.

(that is, not cupped) and if all the pieces are

precisely the same thickness, then you can often

simply glue them together to produce a panel that

is quite flat; then, only a modest amount of sanding

JOINTING

will be needed to make it perfectly smooth.

The edges of the panel’s boards must be perfectly

However, if boards are cupped or of varying thick-

straight, so they will line up side by side tightly all

ness, you’ll need to do some thickness planing. A

along their lengths, with no visible gaps. If you buy

modest-size thickness planer will plane individual

dimensional lumber (with smooth edges) that is re-

boards but will plane full panels only if they are

ally straight, you may be able to just cut the pieces

12 in. or narrower. So unless you have a big expen-

to length and glue them together. Often, however,

sive thickness planer that can handle wider pieces,

even dimensional lumber is not straight enough to

you’ll need to plane individual pieces, glue them

glue up, and you will need to joint the edges. And

up carefully so they are level with each other, then

lumber bought at a hardwood store will certainly

sand or scrape the resulting panel.

need to be jointed.

Jointing is the process of smoothing a board’s

edge and cutting it precisely straight. This can be

done with a jointer or with a router table that has

tip

jointing capabilities (see p. 28). A jointer removes

Using a jointer works well as

only a small amount of material—perhaps 1⁄16 in.—

long as the board is nearly

at a time.

straight to begin with. But

You can also do this with a tablesaw that has a

if the board is significantly

smooth-cutting blade and a simple jointing jig, as

bowed, you will have to

described in the next section.

run the board through the

JOINTING WITH A TABLESAW

jointer a number of times.

When a board is bowed, you can’t use either edge

Many cabinetmakers will

as a guide for straightness, which means you can’t

sometimes joint warped

simply cut with the board running against your rip

boards with a tablesaw even

fence. You need a jig that holds the board straight

if they have a jointer.

as you cut. That type of jig (it can also be called a

sled) is easy to make.

146 Doors and Drawer Faces

1 Rip a piece of plywood that has a factory

edge (which is precisely straight) about 3 in.

to 4 in. wide. Rip another piece about 8 in. wide.

(If you will be jointing wide boards, rip it wider.)

Glue and screw the narrow piece on top of the

wide piece, with the top piece’s factory edge

along the edge of the bottom piece. To make sure

the factory edge will slide along the tablesaw’s rip

fence, make it flush with the lower piece or have it

run past the lower piece by 1⁄16 in. or so.

Add a few plywood blocks on top of the jig,

and attach toggle clamps (also called hold-down

clamps) to them. These will hold the board to be

jointed in place. Be sure to get the kind of toggle

clamps with a handle that you move upward to

tighten; if the clamps have a handle that moves

down to tighten, the handles will bump into the

rip fence.

2 Clamp the board

to be jointed so it

overhangs the jig. Posi-

tion the tablesaw’s rip

fence so that when the

jig is pressed against it,

the sawblade will cut all

along the length of the

board you are jointing.

Measure at the board’s

narrowest width; at that

point, the sawblade

should just barely cut the

board.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 147

3 Rip-cut the board with the jig pressed against the

fence. Aim for a long, smooth cut because stop-

ping and starting can create unevenness. Once one

side is jointed, remove the board from the jig and joint

the other side by rip-cutting with the tablesaw’s fence.

ANOTHER WAY TO JOINT ON A TABLESAW

If you have only a few boards to joint, or if you need to joint a very wide board, the method described here is a good option. Start with a piece of plywood or hardboard with one factory edge.

Position the plywood so its factory edge slightly overhangs the board to be jointed, and fasten it with short 23-gauge pin nails that are about 1⁄2 in. longer than the thickness of the plywood. Place the plywood against the tablesaw’s fence and position the fence to cut as little as possible while still cutting all along the length of the board. Make the rip cut, remove the plywood, and pull out the pin nails with a pair of pliers. The nail holes will be virtually invisible.

148 Doors and Drawer Faces

GLUING

tips

Working from the dimensions you calculated for

Many experienced cabinetmakers

panel size (p. 137), cut the pieces to the correct

initially cut raised-panel pieces

size or slightly larger (see the first tip at right). You

to the correct size and glue them

will clamp the panel about every 12 in., so you will

probably need three or four clamps per door. Have

together; then the panel is ready

your clamps within easy reach, so you can quickly

for edge routing. If you are a

use them once the glue is applied.

beginner, are unsure of your

skills, or just want to be careful,

make your panels about 1⁄2 in.

longer and wider than they need

to be. After the glue has dried,

you can cut them to the exact

size you want.

You may be tempted to use

biscuits, dowels, or other

fasteners to reinforce the joints

between panel boards. But

most cabinetmakers do not

1 Place your panel boards side by side in the

desired order and press them together to be

do that. Simply gluing up with

sure they will fit with no gaps. Draw a carpenter’s

no fasteners, if done correctly,

triangle on the boards to help reestablish the

creates joints that are at least as

order as you reassemble.

strong as the wood itself.

Standard woodworking glue, such

as Titebond®, is plenty strong

for gluing up. If the door will be

in a bathroom or other damp

place, a waterproof glue (such

as Titebond II) is a good choice.

Glues with longer setup time

(such as Titebond III) are easier

to work with but may mean that

you have to wait longer before

removing clamps.

2 Spread glue fairly evenly along one of the

edges for each joint. You can use a glue brush

or your finger.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 149

3 Place the boards on the pipes or bars of two

clamps. Close the clamps until they just start

to pull the boards together. Adjust the board posi-

tions so their ends and their faces are flush. Place

another clamp in the middle, facing the other

direction. This will help keep the panel straight.

Tighten the clamps with light to medium pressure—

tight enough to make good-looking joints, but not

so tight you cup the boards or squeeze out most

of the glue, which will make for a weak joint.

4 Allow the recommended amount of time for

the glue to fully harden and then remove the

clamps. Remove most of the glue with a wood

scraper, taking care not to gouge the wood. If you

have a jointer that is wide enough, run the panel

through it. If not, sand the surface with a random-

orbit sander. Start with 60 grit, then move on to

80 grit, 100 grit, 120 grit, and so on until you

achieve the desired smoothness. Continually feel

for irregularities with your hand.

5 Cut the panel to the desired final size. Now

the panel is ready to be edge routed for a

frame-and-panel door.

150 Doors and Drawer Faces

tip

If the surface is in need of serious

flattening, some woodworkers use a

Shaping a Raised Panel

smoothing plane (not a block plane or

a jack plane) to smooth the surface of

on a Tablesaw

a glue-up. Start with strokes that

A raised panel must be shaped so its edges will

angle across the grain, then plane

fit into the inside-edge groove of the door’s frame.

with the grain for the final smoothing.

This is often done on a router table, using a bit

that’s matched to fit the stick profile. However, you

You may choose to use a sander as

can also do this on a tablesaw. The resulting panel

well. Another option is to use a belt

has a somewhat geometric rather than a curvy look,

sander: Work carefully and don’t press

which is at home with Shaker and Craftsman styles.

down or linger in any spot for more

Glue up the panel (pp. 149–150) or use MDF if than a second because the sander can

you will paint the door. Cut the panel to the desired

dig in quickly. Start with 60-grit or

size (p. 137).

80-grit paper and move up to 100 grit.

Then switch to a random-orbit sander.

AUXILIARY FENCE

Chip board

Melamine face

To make a wide beveled cut in a panel,

Plywood

first build an auxiliary fence, so you can

hold the panel firmly perpendicular to the

table. Make the narrow horizontal strip

1⁄4-in. screws

the same height as the fence. Cut all

2-in. screws

the pieces carefully and assemble on a

Plywood

flat surface so the fence will be perfectly

upright. Make the front face from a

21⁄2 in.

melamine board or other smooth sheet

30 in.

material. (This fence is seen in Step 3

on p. 152.)

9 in.

30 in.

2-in. screws

All parts are 3⁄4 in. thick.

21⁄2 in.

9 in.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 151

tip

If you will be cutting the

grooves in the rails and stiles

with a tablesaw (pp. 138–140),

it may be easier to cut the

panel first and then cut the rail

and stile grooves to match.

1 Clamp the saw’s fence 2 in. away from the

blade and position the blade just 1⁄8 in. above

the table.

2 Run the panel, face side down, along the

fence in all four directions. This will produce a

crosshatch pattern (as shown in Step 4).

3 Attach an auxiliary fence to the tablesaw’s fence

and check for square. See “Auxiliary Fence”

on p. 151.

152 Doors and Drawer Faces

4 Adjust the blade angle to 10° and raise the blade to the height of the cutouts you made in Step 2. Position the fence to cut the panel at the correct thickness on the perimeter so it can slip into the grooves in your rails and stiles.

5 Use a featherboard to keep the panel snug 6 Sand the cut edges with a random-orbit against the fence as you cut. Make one cut and

sander, then a hand sander, to remove any

test that the panel will fit into the rails and stiles.

burrs. Because you are sanding against the grain,

Rotate the panel and cut the other three sides.

use fine sandpaper.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 153

Routing a Raised-Panel

tip

Edge Profile

The panel router bit removes a lot

of material, so you may have to rout

As long as you use a router bit that matches

in two or three passes. You could

the one used for the stick profile (pp. 133–135),

eliminate a pass or two by first cutting

routing the panel profile is straightforward. Be

away some of the material using a

sure that the bit is at the correct height and the

tablesaw. Test on scrap lumber first to

fence is in the correct position; then the profile

will automatically fit.

be sure you won’t cut away too much.

2 If your router is straining, you may need to

make three passes. For the final pass, adjust

the fence so it is flush with the bit’s bearing.

1 If you are using a horizontal router bit with

a back cutter, as shown, raise the bit to the

tip

desired height of the cut. (For other types of bits,

see “Vertical Panel-Raising Bits” on p. 136.)

Routing can cause tearout at the end

Unless you made a tablesaw cut to remove some

of a cut across the grain. To minimize

material, you will probably need to rout in two or

tearout, rout a panel in the following

three passes. Start with the fence moved for-

order: (1) cut across an end grain

ward a little, so it only partially cuts the profile, as

side, (2) rotate counterclockwise and

shown. Adjust the router’s speed to the manu-

cut with the grain, (3) rotate and cut

facturer’s recommendation or consult “Recom-

mended Speeds” on p. 134. Cut all four sides. If

the other end grain side, and (4) cut

the router strains to cut, move the fence a touch

the last side with the grain.

more forward so it has less to cut.

154 Doors and Drawer Faces

tips

With practice you can learn

to place just enough glue in

the cope joints, so they will be

fully adhered without excessive

squeezed-out glue, which is a

bit of a pain to sand away.

The outside edge of a door may

be left square or you can route

a profile that harmonizes with

the door’s other profiles.

MAKING AN MDF PANEL

3 Sand the profile so it is silky smooth. Depend-

ing on the profile, you may use a foam sanding

block or a firmer block. If you’re having trouble

MDF is often used for panels that will be

smoothing, it can help to wrap a piece of sand-

painted, but not for frames, because it is

paper around a dowel or a piece of trim, or even

a bit too easy to dent. Cutting and routing

to mill a block of wood to match the profile and

an MDF panel is easier than working with

use that as a sanding block.

wood. Tearout isn't much of a problem; the

little burrs along the cut edges can quickly

be sanded away.

4 Dry-fit the door to make sure it fits. Insert foam

strips or Space Balls into the grooves (see

p. 144). Apply glue to the rail ends only, taking care to keep glue away from the panel, and clamp

the two joints.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 155

Slab Doors

Slab doors, sometimes called plain or flat-panel

doors, need little in the way of instruction because

they are simple to make. Yet many expensive and

stylish kitchens feature them. Slab doors are gen-

erally modern in appearance, especially if they are

made with melamine sheets. However, they can lend

a surprisingly rich texture to a kitchen when made of

plywood with striking grain patterns. See pp. 38–39

for design tips when choosing plywood panels.

Choose plywood that is perfectly flat; it should

have been stored flat (rather than upright) at the

lumberyard. It should have a moisture content of

PLYWOOD OR MELAMINE

SHEET DOORS

less than 15%.

It is sometimes feared that a simple sheet of

plywood may warp over time. However, cabinet-

makers report that good-quality plywood sheets are

remarkably stable. Choose sheets that have been

stored flat so they are not even slightly warped.

EDGING WITH WOOD

GLUED-UP DOORS

Applying solid wood, rather than veneer

Slab doors can also be made with 1× pieces glued

edging, to the edges of your panels adds

together. A solid door like this can then be edge-

a bit of interest and makes for a door that

routed to any pattern you choose.

better resists splintering and chipping. Cut

the door 1⁄2 in. narrower and shorter than

the finished dimensions. Rip 1⁄4-in. strips

for the edging and attach them with wood

glue and 18-gauge or 23-gauge finish

nails. Sand the edges and corners to make

them slightly less sharp or use a router to

slightly round them over.

If you plan to stain the doors, pay close attention

to the grain patterns and colors. You may choose

to have side-by-side doors repeat patterns or mir-

ror patterns. Or you may prefer a random assort-

ment of patterns.

156 Doors and Drawer Faces

Doors and drawer

faces will be looked at

up close, so take special

care when applying

edging. Pros often can

achieve razor-sharp lines

with a knife or chisel, but

most of us will get more

reliable results using

tools made for the

purpose. See pp. 57–58

for instructions on edge

banding.

Pattern match, joint, and glue up

the doors as you would for a raised

panel (pp. 146–150). Make the door

slightly larger than needed, then cut

it to the finished dimensions after the

glue has set.

You can now rout the edges

of the door to any pattern you

choose.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 157

Cottage-Style Door

A cottage-style door typically features knotty wood

and tongue-and-groove joints. A simple door can

be made quickly with tongue-and-groove paneling.

Paneling wood is not made for cabinetry, so

choose the very best boards you can and don’t

expect perfection. Select boards that are pretty

straight, both along their edges and along their

faces. Be sure to check the moisture content (see

p. 43) and use boards with 15% or less.

Even if you use the best boards available, don’t

be surprised if a certain amount of warping and

cracking occurs. Consider it part of the rustic charm.

1 Cut the pieces to length and assemble them

with tongues in grooves. Cut the door to width.

Be sure to cut off the tongues and grooves on the

outside edges. You may need to have two narrow

pieces on each side, or on only one side, in order

to get the right width.

Assemble the pieces. Check the door for

square and reinforce the back with cleats. The

cleats should leave room at the sides to allow the

door to close and should not be placed where

they will get in the way of hinges. Attach with two

screws in each joint. Gluing is not recommended;

the boards will expand and contract slightly with

changes in humidity.

2 Rout the edges with a door router bit or a

roundover bit. Test on scrap pieces first to get

the most pleasing depth of cut. Rout across the

grain, then rotate the door a quarter turn and rout

with the grain, and so on for all four sides. (Ending

by routing with the grain reduces tearout.)

3 You’ll probably need to do some sanding

at the edges. Apply sealer or paint.

158 Doors and Drawer Faces

Glass Doors

ANOTHER WAY TO

Kitchens often include one or even several glass

INSTALL GLASS

doors. The glass sits in a rabbet (rather than

fitting into grooves like a wood panel), so it can be

Instead of routing a groove and inserting

removed and replaced in case of damage. Once

a retainer, as shown on p. 160, you could

set into the rabbet, the glass may be attached with

insert glazing points to hold the glass in

silicone sealant and perhaps glass points as well,

place, then run a bead of latex or silicone

or thin pieces of wood can be used to capture it.

Another method is to rout a groove into which a

caulk (which is stronger but will be more

specially made flexible panel retainer fits.

difficult to remove if you need to change

the glass). Be sure the bead is not so wide

as to make it visible from the other side.

1 Cut the rails and stiles to length and rout the

cope cuts on the ends of the rails. Use a pro-

file bit made for glass doors to cut the groove on

the inside edges of all four pieces.

D o o r s a n d D r awe r F a c e s 159

2 Install a groove-cutting router bit made to be 3 Cut pieces of panel retainer, with mitered used with the panel retainer (Step 3). Position

corners at each end, with scissors. Press the

the router so it cuts a groove that will be slightly

retainer into place to secure the glass.

behind the glass when it is installed. Cut the

groove all along the length of the rails (top).

For the stiles, do not cut the groove completely

through the length or the groove will be visible

when the door is assembled. Instead, start and

end the groove cut 1 in. or so from the stiles’

ends (bottom).

160 Doors and Drawer Faces

CHAPTER

fi nishing and installing

YOU’VE SPENT so much time and effort building

add-ons to improve convenience and make the

9

cabinet cases, drawer bodies, and doors that you

most of your cabinet spaces.

may be tempted to treat applying fi nish, attaching

Once cabinets are installed, countertops can be

the cabinets, and installing hardware as mere after-

added. This is usually done by specialists, and I’ll

thoughts. But these elements go a long way toward

show you how they work. You may be able to do at

defi ning the look and durability of your kitchen cab-

least some of the work yourself.

inets, so take the time to choose the best products

and apply them with care.

Finishing

Probably the most common order of work is to

fi nish the cabinets and doors, add hardware, and

Kitchen cabinets generally are not fi nished with the

then install the cabinets. However, don’t hesitate to

same precision as fi ne furniture. In particular, the

change this order if it suits your workfl ow. In particu-

insides of cases are not expected to be perfect. But

lar, you may choose to add the hardware and install

the doors, drawer faces, and front cabinet edges or

drawers last, after installing the cabinet cases.

frames are often viewed close up and should have

A good fi nish dresses up a cabinet and makes

a consistent appearance.

it easy to wipe clean. Until fairly recently, it took

special equipment, expensive materials, and a good

deal of practiced skill to apply effective stains and

tip

paints. If you want to get real fancy with lacquer,

You may choose to go with a rustic

shellac, or other traditional fi nishes, consult a

look, with knots and surface

book such as Taunton’s Complete Illustrated Guide

imperfections that lend character; a

to Finishing, which discusses a variety of fi nish semicasual appearance, where a few

options. But fortunately, a good number of easy-to-

minor imperfections and perhaps

apply fi nishes are available today, and this chapter

emphasizes those.

brush strokes are acceptable or even

Today’s knobs, pulls, and drawer glides install

welcome; or a pristine and glassy-

easily and quickly, but beware: It’s easy to make

smooth surface, which has no

mistakes. Follow installation steps systematically,

fl aws. Of course, the last option will

checking alignment as you go, so you end up with

require a good deal more work and

neatly positioned pulls and glides that operate

skill than the others.

smoothly. Also consider installing accessories and

161

When to finish

frame-and-panel finishing

The number one foe of a fine finish is dust, so the

If your door is made with a frame and panel,

best time to finish is whenever you can apply finish

remember that the panel will move—expand and

in a dust-free environment. Unless you have a ded-

contract—with changes in humidity, causing it to

icated dustless finish room (and if you do, the rest

slightly change position in relation to the frame.

of us envy you), the best option may be to wait until

Ideally, the panel and frames should be made and

all the cabinets are built (or all the components are

finished separately, allowed to dry, and then assem-

cut); then sand them smooth; then vacuum away

bled; that will allow the panel to move inside the

all dust with a HEPA or other fine-filtered shop

frame without resistance from the finish. In the real

vacuum; then wait a day for even the tiniest dust

world, however, that is often not possible; it would

motes to settle before you finish. While you work

cause a serious workflow problem when building a

and for hours or even a day afterward (depending

number of doors.

on the type of finish), take care not to introduce

What to do? Many cabinetmakers shrug and say

any dust into the room where you are finishing.

that things have a tendency to work out. Here are

some possible solutions:

•   Acrylic products—both paints and finishes—

remain flexible. (An old dried acrylic paint chip

will bend quite a bit before breaking.) This flexi-

bility absorbs a good deal of panel movement.

RepaiRing Dents

•   Some cabinetmakers apply a coat of finish to

Gouges and holes usually cannot be repaired, only

the panel—or just to the outside routed edges

filled, which is a good solution if you plan to paint. But of the panel—ahead of time. After assembling

surprisingly often, dents can be repaired in a way that

the panel, they apply more finish, taking care to

makes the wood stainable. Dampen a rag, place it over

the dent, and press a household iron set on high onto

tip

the rag. If that doesn’t raise the dent, set the iron to

Before you sand and apply finish,

steam and press it directly. More often than not, the

take the time to experiment. On

dent will raise, and you can sand it smooth.

large scrap pieces of plywood and

hardwood of the same species as the

cabinets, sand and apply all coats of

the planned finish. That may mean,

for example, primer and paint or

stain and two coats of sealer. Don’t

skimp on the testing; for instance, a

second coat of sealer can change the

appearance significantly. Hold the

test boards in several places in the

kitchen and at different times of day,

so you can see what the finish will

look like in real-life conditions.

162 Finishing and Installing

sand all the flat

areas on your cabinets

with a random-orbit

sander and then move

on to other hand-

sanding tools as

needed for curved

surfaces and tight

corners.

apply it lightly to the joints between panel and

tip

frame. This allows the panel to move without

Before sanding, consult your finish’s

cracking the finished surface.

label. Some finishes call for a very

•   If you plan to wipe or brush the finish onto a fin-smooth surface, perhaps using

ished door, take care not to fill the joint between

400-grit paper for the final sanding;

panel and frame. Use your final stroke to wipe

others recommend a slightly rougher

away any excess finish or paint in the joint.

surface, perhaps finishing with

120-grit paper.

prepping

To achieve professional results, you will probably

spend a great deal more time preparing the wood

than you will applying the finish.

tight corners. The random-orbit sander will leave

If you will paint, fill all dents with wood putty

swirl marks even if you end up using 400-grit paper,

or filler, allow to dry, and sand smooth. If you will

so go over the area with a hand sander, stroking

stain and/or finish, minimize the filler as much as

with the grain, before applying stain or finish.

possible. Some fillers advertised as stainable will

You will likely use a variety of hand-sanding tools.

definitely not look like the surrounding wood sur-

A woodworking sanding block handles a variety of

face once the finish is applied. You will probably get

situations. A sanding sponge works well on many

better results by staining first, then applying tinted

curved surfaces but not as well for sharp corners. It

wood filler; many colors are available. But don’t ex-

sometimes helps to use a small piece of sandpaper

pect the filled areas to be invisible; even if the color

alone, perhaps folded over for tight spots or wrapped

matches, the lack of grain lines will be noticeable.

around a finger for curves. In a difficult situation, it

Begin with a random-orbit sander to sand the

may be worth the effort to make a custom sanding

flat areas. This tool often works for some gently

block: Cut a small piece of wood to match the con-

curved areas as well but does not do a good job in

tours of the area, and wrap sandpaper around it.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 163

tip

After sanding, vacuum away all the dust you can

using a fine-filtered shop vacuum or dust collector.

Be kind to your lungs. Position

Then wipe with a tack cloth or a lint-free cotton

fans to blow gently in and

cloth (such as an old T-shirt) that has been laun-

out of the room, to exchange

dered and is slightly dampened with turpentine, oil

the air without introducing

varnish, or a diluted version of the finish you will

dust. If you're using a product

apply. As a final step, you can use your hand, which

containing oil, lacquer, alcohol,

has natural oils.

or other toxic ingredients,

finish options

wear a respirator. As a general

A dizzying array of wood finishes can be found at

rule, if you can strongly smell

paint stores and home centers, and cabinetmakers

the finish, it’s time to get a new

offer a wide range of opinions on the best products.

respirator filter or introduce

Here I emphasize the simplest ones to apply.

better ventilation. Even acrylic

staining. If you need to change the color of the

products can be harmful;

wood, there are a good number of stains to choose

ventilate the room and wear at

among. An acrylic wiping stain is a good choice; it

least a dust mask.

can be applied with a rag or brush without producing

streaks. Dyes also work well and are recommended

for difficult-to-stain woods, like pine and cherry.

Gel stains, standard wood stains, and combination

stain-and-finish products are not recommended;

they can be streaky and difficult to control.

spraying. Often spray finishes are applied with a

HVLP sprayer, which produces a fine mist with min-

imal overspray, so it’s easy to control. It usually has

a hose that reaches into a can of finish. However,

an HVLP requires a powerful compressor, which

makes it expensive. An LVLP sprayer (see p. 35)

produces similar results, though more slowly, and

can be operated with a standard-size compressor.

It typically has a small attached canister, which you

need to refill fairly often.

To spray, place a door on a surface that can be

rotated or position a cabinet case where you can

easily reach all the parts to be coated. Turn on the

compressor and briefly test-spray a nearby surface,

to be sure the spray is not producing globules.

Keep the sprayer moving as you work; stopping for

even a half second may cause excessive buildup.

Move the sprayer in one direction and release the

trigger when you reach the end of a stroke; holding

these acrylic stains are made for wiping or

the trigger as you reverse direction will also pro-

brushing on.

duce buildup.

164 Finishing and Installing

RotisseRie spRaying

A rotisserie painting caddy rotates easily, so

you can quickly spray all edges of a door.

You can make one simply by attaching a

circular piece of plywood to a kitchen lazy

susan. A grid of hold-ups can be made of

most anything; in this case, the cabinetmaker

used hold-offs designed for concrete forms,

but something like 16d finish nails or 3-in.

screws would also work.

Conversion varnish and nitrocellulose lacquer are

often sprayed by professionals. Lacquer in particular

calls for care and skill and requires multiple coats, so

it may be too difficult for a beginner. Acrylic cabinet

paint is another option: It is more forgiving, though

you do need to be careful not to overspray.

Brushing and wiping. A number of good-looking

and long-lasting products can be applied without

a sprayer. These tend to be fairly thin and watery,

allowing them to level out before drying, which

eliminates wiping streaks or brush marks. You

will probably need to apply two or more coats to

achieve a hard-wearing surface. Some products

call for light sanding between coats, while others

need no sanding.

Wiping may sound tedious and time-consuming,

but it is surprisingly easy and quick. Use a lint-

free cotton cloth. In corners you will need to wipe

against the grain, but try to finish using strokes that

run with the grain. Fortunately, a bit of cross-grain

wiping will not be visible.

For quicker application, you may find it easier to

start by applying with an inexpensive foam brush,

though standard brushes can work well. Apply lib-

a nearby block wall is a fine place for testing a

erally, then wipe with light strokes along the grain.

spray pattern before application. A sheet of dry-

wall or some scrap plywood would also work.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 165

tipsWood conditioner prevents

a blotchy appearance and is

a good idea for cherry, pine,

some types of maple, and other

touchy species. It is usually not

needed for oak or birch.

Polyurethane finish is available

in oil- and water-based versions.

The oil-based option is more

durable and scratch resistant

but tends to yellow and it does

not flex, which could cause

problems with a frame-and-

panel door (see pp. 162–163).

Acrylic poly is pretty strong, but

you may need to apply two or

more coats. Most people prefer

a satin finish, but high-gloss

versions are also available.

a drying rack holds plenty of doors while they

dry, allowing you to keep working.

Urethane acrylic and waterborne paints work

here are three products that can be applied with

well for cabinets. They spray or brush on easily

a rag or with a brush followed by a rag.

and generally do not require priming first. Some

types cannot be thinned with water; you must buy

the company’s proprietary thinner.

166 Finishing and Installing

Cabinet Hardware

tip

It’s common to drill the holes for the hinges

Nearly all the hardware used on kitchen cabinets

3 in. or 4 in. from the top and bottom of

is of three types: drawer slides (also called glides),

the door, but this distance is not important.

hinges, and pulls or knobs. None is difficult to install.

Just make sure the hinges will not interfere

hinges

with a shelf or interior hardware.

Most hinges used today are concealed, or Euro-

style. Not only are they easy to install but they can

be quickly adjusted, so you can align your doors to

•   Most doors should open at 100° to 120°, which

achieve neat parallel lines between doors as well

provides plenty of access to the inside of the

as between doors and other horizontal surfaces.

cabinet. However, if a cabinet has pullout trays,

These hinges also allow for doors to be adjusted up

the drawers need to open wider—165° is com-

and down.

mon. Angled corner cabinet doors need to open

Euro-style hinges typically come in two parts, the

only at 45°, so 45° hinges are often used.

hinge arm, which attaches to the door via a fairly

•   Order all the hinges you need from an online

large hole drilled partway through the door, and a

source or a cabinet supplier. You’ll need two

plate that attaches to the cabinet. You will need

hinges for most doors, but three or four hinges

a Forstner® bit to match the size of your hinge—

for tall pantry doors.

usually 35mm, or 13⁄8 in.

Before boring holes in your cabinet doors, do

a test run. Follow the steps on a scrap piece of

plywood and make sure the cup hole is the correct

self-centeRing DRill bit

depth, the hinge will overlay the cabinet the

Cabinet hardware should be attached with screws

desired distance, and the door will open the

that are perfectly perpendicular to the wood, so their

distance you want.

heads lie nice and flat. (Non-flat screw heads can

Buying hinges. Hinge options may seem con-

mean that doors will not close all the way.) You may

fusing, but in most cases this is what you will need:

think you can do this freehand, but, actually, almost

•   Get full overlay hinges.

nobody can. A self-centering bit, often referred to

•   Choose a mounting plate for the amount you

by the brand name Vix®, drills a wonderfully straight

want to overlay the frame or case edge. The

pilot hole, making it easy to drive screws precisely.

most common overlay is 1⁄2 in.

Buy self-centering bits for the size screws you will

drive—most often, #3 or #5.

tip In this book, I install hardware,

doors, and drawers first, then

install the cabinets. However, you

may choose to install the cabinet

cases first.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 167

1 Drill holes in the doors. They must be a con-

sistent distance from the door edge—typically,

1⁄4 in. or 1⁄8 in. And the holes must be the correct

depth. To achieve this, you can use a drill press

with a fence that aligns the bit correctly. If you

are drilling with a hand drill, make a simple jig, as

shown, out of 1⁄4-in. plywood and hold it against

the edge of the door while you drill. The Forstner

bit shown will have drilled to the correct depth

when its top surface is flush with the wood surface.

tip If you are unsure of your ability

to drill a reasonably straight

hole with a Forstner bit, you can

purchase a drill jig that holds the

bit straight and stops when you

reach the correct depth. However,

the shape of a Forstner bit makes

it easy to drill holes that are at

least close to straight vertical, and

with a bit of practice you can learn

to drill holes of the correct depth.

2 Insert the hinge’s cup into the hole you just

drilled, and use a square to hold the hinge

square to the door. Drill pilot holes using a self-

centering bit (top), then drive mounting screws

(above). Attach both hinges.

168 Finishing and Installing

4 Adjust the door up or down by loosening the

plate screws, moving the door, and tightening

the screws. Use the adjusting screws to move the

top or bottom of the door in or out.

to pull the drawers out only about three-quarters

of the way.

•   For heavier-duty slides with guaranteed smooth

operation under pressure, choose ball-bearing

side-mounted slides. They also are 1⁄2 in. thick,

3 Attach the mounting plates to the hinges,

open the hinges to 90°, and position the door

so the drawer body must be 1 in. narrower than

where you want it to go. It helps to clamp a board

the opening. Less-expensive slides allow you to

at the bottom of the cabinet to support the door

pull the drawer out most of the way.

as you work. Hook the plates’ small front tabs

to the front of the door. To attach the mounting

•   Full-extension slides work as advertised, and

plates, drive screws through the centers of the

permit the drawer to be pulled out all the way,

slots so you can adjust the door up or down.

for easy access to items in the back.

•   Self-closing and soft-closing slides gently complete the closing action in slow motion.

draWer slides

Choose drawer slides (or glides) to suit the situation:

•   Undermount slides attach to the bottom of the

•   

drawer, so you can build a box that is nearly as

Inexpensive slides with nylon rollers are fine for

wide as the opening. However, these are expen-

small drawers that do not hold much weight.

sive and difficult to install.

They are easy to install and are forgiving of

minor imperfections in the cabinet or drawer

installing nylon-roller slides. These come in two

body. However, they take up 1⁄2 in. of space on

parts for each side. Look for lettering that tells you

each side, so the drawer box needs to be 1 in.

where each part goes: CR means cabinet right; DL

narrower than the opening. And they allow you

means drawer left.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 169

2 Attach the C parts (called runners) to the cab-

inet. The front edge (which has a roller) should

be about 1⁄8 in. back from the cabinet’s edge. Use

a framing square to align the runner so it is square

1

to the cabinet’s front edge. Drill self-centering

Line up the D parts (called glides) of the slide

pilot holes and drive screws to attach.

with the front (nonroller) edge nearly flush with

the front edge of the drawer. Drill self-centering

pilot holes (p. 168) and drive the provided screws.

attaching RunneRs to a

face fRame cabinet

If the cabinet has a face frame,

you’ll need to add wood to the

inside side of the cabinet (as

shown) to keep the runner parallel.

Attach strips of wood the same

thickness as the inside lip of the

face frame (you may need to rip-

cut them) to the cabinet before

attaching the runners.

170 Finishing and Installing

installing RolleR sliDes

3 Test that the drawer operates smoothly; both

Manufacturers make a variety of slide types, and you

drawer rollers should rest firmly on the runners

should check their installation instructions before install-all along their length. Push down on each front

ing. Here’s one common method: Open the slides, and

corner. If the drawer bounces up and down, you

attach the portions that stay in the cabinet. Make sure

need to lower the runner on that side.

the slides are square to the front of the cabinet. Use

spacers if you have a face frame, as shown on the facing

page. Set the drawer body on 1⁄4-in. spacers at the bot-

tom, so the drawer is centered in the opening. Push the

drawer most of the way into the opening. Pull the slides

out and attach the slides to the drawer with screws. Pull

the drawer out farther and attach more screws.

attaching draWer faces

Once the drawer bodies are installed and can glide

smoothly, the drawer faces are easy to install, usu-

ally with four screws driven through the inside of

a 1⁄4-in. piece of plywood works well as a spacer

the drawer body, so no fasteners are visible on the

when installing drawer faces.

face. However, take care to align the faces so they

are parallel with doors and other drawers, and so

that gaps between them are consistent.

If a door or a lower drawer face is already installed,

check that it is straight, then simply use a spacer

to hold the new drawer face parallel to it and at the

desired height. In other situations, you may need to

clamp boards to the cabinet to act as guides.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 171

tip

pUlls and knoBs

Pulls and knobs are also simple to install: Drill holes

The installation screws that

of the correct size in the correct locations and

come with your knobs or

attach with the screws provided. Knobs need only

pulls may not be the right

one screw, while pulls call for two.

length, so you might need

Knobs and pulls are usually installed on the cen-

to buy longer ones. They

ter of a drawer face, though with a wide face you

are usually 8–32 machine

may want to raise it up to the top third. On doors,

screws with fine threads,

they are often installed on the stile opposite the

hinge, centered about 4 in. from the top for base

but take a sample knob with

cabinets and 4 in. from the bottom on wall cabinets.

you to the store, to make

But this is not a rule, and you may choose other

sure the new screws will fit.

locations.

Most knobs and pulls provide very little leeway

for covering drilling mistakes. Once you’ve drilled a

mounting hole you can’t undrill it, so work carefully

to get the holes just right. Don’t measure for each

hole with a tape measure or square; the chance of

error is too great. Instead, buy or make a reliable jig

that’s easy to hold in place and drill through.

a homemade jig like

this can be flipped over,

to align for holes on

either side of a door. This

one is made with pieces

of 1⁄4-in. plywood that

are glued in place, but

you can use most any

material. Make sure the

thin alignment strips on

each side of the board

are the same width and

a good number of jigs for drawer faces are

are all flush with the

available for purchase. This one, by Sommerfeld,

outside edge of the jig,

is bulky but easy to operate. Using various stops,

so the measurements

center the jig on the drawer vertically and hor-

will be the same on each

izontally. If you will be installing knobs, just drill

side. To use the jig, just

through the center hole. For pulls, use the two

place it on the door and

stops with holes, as shown.

drill through the holes.

172 Finishing and Installing

Installing Cabinets

•   Make sure that cables or cords for under-cabinet lighting are installed at the correct height—often,

If kitchen walls are plumb and the floor is level,

just below the bottom of the cabinet.

installing cabinets can usually proceed calmly and

quickly. But surfaces are usually less than perfect,

•   The dishwasher should be installed, or the

so you may need to spend a good deal of time

lines—for electrical, drain, and water supply—

shimming and filling in.

should be in place or at least planned.

•   Be very clear as to the required openings for

Working With other trades

appliances: dishwasher, refrigerator, and range

Kitchen remodeling usually involves running new

or cooktop. Make sure the wiring and plumbing

electrical lines for receptacles and lights, and often

lines are in place.

also includes new piping for supply and drain lines.

•   It’s usually best to install new flooring before There may also be heating and air-conditioning

installing cabinets. If the flooring will be added

ductwork to contend with. Whether the utilities

later, you may need to raise the base cabinets

have been hired out or you are installing them your-

(and the wall cabinets as well) to accommodate

self, it’s almost always best to have all the rough-in

the extra floor height.

work done before installing cabinets.

Draw lines on the wall indicating where the cabi-

nets will go, and check that everything will fit. Some

particulars:

•   Check that above-counter receptacles will be at the right height—at least 1 in. above the countertop backsplash, if there will be one.

•   If the wall between the countertop and the

bottom of wall cabinets will be tiled or otherwise

covered, this should probably be done after the

cabinets are installed, but check with the tiler to

be sure.

tip

Resist the temptation to

follow an out-of plumb

or nonlevel wall or floor

when installing cabinets.

It may sound easier,

but in the end it usually

creates difficult problems.

Shim as needed to make

this cabinet had to be notched to accommodate

cabinets perfectly level

the cable for a receptacle. In most cases, cables

are run inside walls.

and plumb.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 173

Under a sink, holes may need to be drilled and

rectangles cut out of the back of a cabinet to

accommodate plumbing and electrical lines. To

accomplish this, you may need to coordinate with

the plumber and electrician.

mark the walls for the locations of the cabinets.

Use a stud finder or drill exploratory holes to

locate studs.

prepping

Check all the walls and floors for plumb and square.

If the wall behind base cabinets is out of plumb or

the floor is not level, you may need to shim cabinets

at the floor or the wall, which may affect the final

height of the cabinets.

Wall caBinets

It’s usually easier to install wall cabinets before

base cabinets. Double-check the height—usually

18 in. above the top of the countertop or 54 in.

above the floor. Make a couple of T-shaped braces,

1⁄2 in. or so taller than the height of the cabinet

underside. Position them at an angle to the wall, so

you can adjust their height, and use them to tempo-

rarily hold the cabinets.

Wall cabinets must be attached to wall studs

with screws driven through structural parts of the

cabinet. So don’t drive screws only through a

1⁄4-in. plywood back; drive through 3⁄4-in. plywood

once the first cabinet is installed plumb in both

or through top and bottom cleats.

directions, clamp succeeding cabinets together,

If there is a corner wall cabinet, start there. Work

drill pilot holes through the frame (if any), and

with a helper to get both sides and both faces

drive screws to attach.

174 Finishing and Installing

tip

through the face frames to hold the cabinets

If the back wall is wavy,

together. For frameless cabinets, pilot holes are

play it safe and install the

usually not needed. If you don’t like the look of

screw heads, countersink standard headed screws,

first cabinets—often in the

then plug and sand the holes.

corner—slightly shimmed

out from the wall. That will

Base caBinets

compensate for outward

To install base cabinets, adjust the legs or shim the

protrusions of the wall when

kick plate frame (pp. 108–109) until they are at the

installing the other cabinets.

correct height, are level with each other, and are

plumb in the front.

Openings for the dishwasher, refrigerator, range,

and other appliances need to be precisely correct

plumb—you may need to use shims—and install

at the top, bottom, and sides; getting this right

with screws driven into studs.

might call for painstaking shimming.

To install adjoining cabinets, temporarily sup-

Attach the base cabinets to the walls with screws

port them from below, and firmly clamp cabinets

driven into studs. Because base cabinets rest on

together, taking care to get the front faces and

the floor, these screws do not have to be very

the tops and bottoms flush. Check for plumb, and

strong but they should hold firmly.

install shims as needed. If the cabinets have face

You may choose to cover the kick plate with a

frames, drill pilot holes and drive cabinet screws

trim piece of wood or with vinyl cove base.

cabinet scRews

Many cabinets are installed with drywall or all-

purpose screws, which usually work just fine.

But they can sometimes break; their heads

strip out easily, making them difficult to remove

if you need to reposition a cabinet; and they’re

kind of ugly. Instead, spend a bit more money

for cabinet screws, which have attractive

heads, are sure to stay strong, have self-

tapping threads to make them easier to drive,

and have star-shaped drives that are much less

likely to strip out.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 175

at the dishwasher opening, the cabinets need

to be perfectly spaced and perfectly parallel, for a

professional appearance. (This dishwasher allows

for installing a decorative face on the drawer, and

a face matching the cabinetry was installed.)

You’ll probably need to add small trim or fill-in

pieces to make up the gaps between cabinets

Amenities

and walls or, in this case, a farmhouse sink.

Cabinets can be outfitted with a variety of accessories

that help make the best use of space and provide

easy access to their contents. Here are some tips on

installing them. The units here, which are all from Rev-

A-Shelf, come with sliding and attachment hardware

and can be purchased to fit most any size opening.

a wood drawer organizer can be cut to fit the

drawer as needed. It does not need to be as wide as

the drawer because space on one or both sides can

serve as an additional storage pocket. Once the ba-

a bit of visual interest is supplied at this end

sic organizer is in place, no more cutting is needed:

panel by adding what is essentially a cabinet door

Three sizes of spacers further subdivide this drawer,

to one section, and trimming out the other section.

slipping into place via a series of mounting holes.

176 Finishing and Installing

a slide-out shelf may attach to the sides of the

cabinets, using standard drawer hardware. Or, as

shown here, it may have bottom-mounted hard-

ware. Installation is simple: Attach the sliding unit

with screws to the floor of the cabinet, keeping

the front tabs parallel to the cabinet’s front. Then

slide the drawer in.

slide-out units can house one or more garbage

receptacles. They hide unattractive trash, yet

make for easy access. This sliding unit attaches to

the bottom of the cabinet much like the slide-out

shelf above. The unit could be installed so you

open the door and then pull it out, but attaching

into place and check alignment; you may or may

the drawer to the front makes it easier to use.

not need to remove screws in order to make the

Slide the unit out slightly and mark where the door

adjustments. The unit slides smoothly enough that

should attach; this may take a bit of trial and error.

the door pull can be at the side, as shown, or you

Attach the back of the door to the unit’s mounting

may choose to move the pull to the center top of

plate with two short screws. Slide the door back

the door.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 177

this shelf unit makes good use of a blind base

cabinet corner. Two shelves, attached to a vertical

pole mounted just inside the cabinet door, swing

out to provide easy access to a kitchen’s darkest

recessed space.

this lazy susan has expandable center poles,

so you can adjust shelf height. Use the template

provided to drill pilot holes in the centers of the

top and bottom of the cabinet, then install the

parts—the roller units, the pole, flanges, shelves,

and a mounting plate at the top. The upper shelf

can then be adjusted for height.

Countertops

Countertops are installed after the cabinets are in

place. They usually overhang the cabinets by 1 in.

to 2 in. in front and on the sides. Most are struc-

turally strong enough so that support is needed

only every 24 in. or more. Thus you probably do

not need to provide support where the top spans a

dishwasher. Your cabinets should be nice and level,

but it’s the countertop company’s job to shim the

top so it is perfectly level in both directions.

a concrete countertop that is only lightly tinted

retains some of its natural gray color and harmo-

nizes well with the blue-gray cabinetry.

178 Finishing and Installing

availaBle materials

staining. They may be nearly uniform in color or can

Granite and quartz are the most popular materials

have splashes of various hues and even incorporate

these days, but you may want to consider other

artistic touches, like glass or pebble aggregates or

options. Some types can be installed by a do-it-

hand-painted tints made to imitate granite veining.

yourselfer, but most benefit from professional

An expert installer can give you a predictable result

installation.

or create a work of art. If you want to try your hand

concrete. Once a daring choice, concrete

at making a concrete top yourself, there are a

countertops have gone mainstream. Concrete tops

number of websites that sell kits and give step-by-

require a regular application of sealer to prevent

step directions. Concrete tops weigh somewhat

the sink

A self-rimming sink, which sits on top of the countertop, is the easiest and least-expensive sink option, but some people find the elevated rim annoying to wipe around. If you want to make it easy to wipe crumbs right into the sink, install an undermount sink. In that case, the perimeter edges of

the countertop will be exposed, so these countertops are

traditionally made of polished granite, concrete, or quartz.

Farmhouse sinks, which are large and are sometimes called

apron sinks because of their wide exposed fronts, are also farmhouse sink with countertop at

popular and are usually undermounted as well.

the same level as the sink.

farmhouse sink with countertop

that rests on top.

self-rimming sink.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 179

a speckled granite countertop that is only

3⁄4 in. thick exhibits class without calling attention

to itself.

Quartz countertop patterns run the gamut

from one solid color to strikingly bold patterns.

This elegant example falls right in the middle.

laminates are not only

inexpensive but can also

be great looking. They

can mimic the look of

other materials, such as

stone, but also are avail-

able in solid colors and

unique patterns.

180 Finishing and Installing

more than other countertops, but as long as the top

tile. Countertop tiles (do not use wall tiles, which

is not excessively thick it can be supported by

will crack) come in just about any color you can

traditional cabinetry.

imagine. Glazed tiles themselves are impervious to

granite. Granite may be light or dark, speckled,

staining, but the grout lines need to be kept well

or with pronounced grain. Edges can be squared

sealed. Granite tiles can be installed with very thin

off, rounded, or ogee shaped. Because granite is

grout lines, or even with no grout lines at all.

a natural stone, granite tops have one-of-a-kind

solid-surface. Often referred to by the brand

patterns that range from subtle to striking. Sealer

name Corian®, older solid-surface countertops

should be applied a couple of times per year, espe-

tended to get dull after years of wiping, but today’s

cially with lighter colors.

materials are harder and retain a shiny surface.

Quartz. Quartz countertops are constructed from

They also come in a dizzying array of colors and

a manmade product composed of over 90% quartz

patterns. Often a sink is molded into the top seam-

particles with resins and tints; it comes in completely

lessly, which makes cleaning easy. These materials

predictable patterns. Quartz is actually more durable

can be installed only by factory-licensed pros.

and stain resistant than granite.

laminate. Sometimes called by the brand name

Formica®, laminates are the least-expensive option.

Today’s laminates come in a wide variety of colors

and patterns to coordinate with most any decor.

Patterns that mimic natural stone are popular. Edges

come in a variety of shapes. Laminates are surpris-

ingly durable: They do not need to be sealed and

can last for many decades.

ceramic tiles with a stone look and wide grout

this bright solid-surface countertop has an

lines create an informal look. With yearly applica-

integral sink that makes cleaning a breeze.

tions of sealers, the surface is easy to clean.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 181

installing granite and

It is possible to buy granite slabs from online

QUartz coUntertops

sources or from some tile stores or stone yards.

Granite and quartz (and sometimes marble, though

They may come with one smoothed edge. Cut your

most marbles are easily scratched and stained)

granite with a circular saw or grinder and a good

countertops are almost always cut, shaped, and

diamond blade and have a helper drizzle water onto

smoothed in a special shop. However, after the

the blade with a hose as you cut. With a belt sander

initial large cut, most of the work could be accom-

you can generally smooth the cut edge but not

plished by a skilled DIYer with a common 4-in. or

make it shiny. To take it to the next level and create

5-in. grinder, plus about $250 worth of blades and

edges that are smooth and shiny, you’ll need an

polishing wheels.

abrasive wheel and a set of stone polishing wheels.

1 At a stone shop, large rough-edged slabs are 2 To make a cutout for an undermounted sink cut using a massive diamond-cutting saw.

(where the cut edges of the granite will be

exposed), workers draw the outline using a Wite-

Out® pen from a stationary store. They cut roughly

with a grinder equipped with a diamond blade.

3 At tight corners, the grinder is used to make a

series of short cuts up to the cut line. Then the

diamond blade is used as a scraper to produce a

rounded edge.

4 An abrasive wheel (being used on a marble top

with no water here) defines the curved line.

182 Finishing and Installing

5 Once the line has been cut and generally smoothed, a series of abrasive pads are used to polish the edge. Start with a 200-grit pad, and then polish with pads of 400 grit, 800 grit, and 1,500 grit. If you want it super smooth, finish with a 3,000-grit wheel.

6 Work done at the shop is not always perfect, but a good deal of cutting and polishing can be performed in the field. Here, a slab had to be rip-cut and have its edge polished. Using pro-level blades and pads, the work can be done without water.

7 During installation, joints can be sealed with clear silicone, but pros mix a two-part epoxy with colorant to match the countertop (left). Installation must be done carefully, so all the edges line up perfectly; sealing around the sink is especially tricky (middle). A special electric tool (right) pulls two pieces very tightly together while the epoxy sets.

F i n i s h i n g a n d I n s t a l l i n g 183

CHAPTER

bathroom vanities

10A STANDARD inexpensive bathroom vanity has to reach cleaning products, and there’s plenty of a sink on top and two doors below. Inside, there

wasted space.

is just one large open space. This arrangement

The standard vanity is a good example of the

makes for easy installation because it leaves plenty

disadvantages of one-size-fi ts-all cabinetry:

of room for the plumbing—the drain trap, the stop

Manufacturers do not know where your pipes are,

valves for hot and cold water, and the supply tubes

so they just leave a large cavity. You, however, do

running up to the faucet. However, when it comes

know where your pipes are. And armed with the

to usable storage and convenience, there is much

skills and tools shown throughout this book, you

to be desired: You often have to get on your knees

can plan and build a cabinet that will maximize your

storage opportunities.

In this chapter I’ve featured two vanity projects.

One project employs drawers and the other open

shelving, but both can be modifi ed to fi t like a glove

in your bathroom.

Choosing a Style

A vanity is a cabinet that houses a sink. (The other

sink options—pedestal and wall hung—can be

good looking but do not give you a place to store

stuff.) The vanity’s sink may be a separate unit

that is mounted on a small countertop sometimes

called a deck. Or, as seen in the two projects in this

chapter, it can be integral with the countertop. This

option has the advantages of a seamless look, easy

cleaning, and no worries about caulking the sink to

the top. Style possibilities for bathroom counters

This fl oating vanity hovers above the fl oor,

are as varied as kitchen counters.

making for easy cleaning. A wide vanity like this

may be made as one large unit, or it may be

made up of two or three units fastened together

during installation.

184

A bowl sink makes a dramatic and lively design

statement. It may be mounted onto a wood deck

that is well protected with paint. A better arrange-

ment is to fasten it to a waterproof surface like the

countertop top shown here.

Planning Your

Bathroom Layout

If you are remodeling a bathroom, carefully plan the

size and placement of all the elements—bathtub,

toilet, vanity with sink, and any other storage or

plumbing features. Consult a contractor or a build-

ing inspector to be sure you follow local building

codes. Common codes, as well as lessons learned

by designers over the years, have led to guidelines

(which may also be laws) illustrated in “Sink and

Vanity Dimensions” on p. 186.

• A GFCI receptacle should be within 3 ft. of the

sink. There are no clear guidelines on how close

it can be, but it should be located where it can-

A console sink is a simple structure that pro-

not get splashed with water.

vides a vintage look. It leaves the plumbing on

display, so plan to replace plastic or old plumb-

• There should be at least 8 in. between the

ing with gleaming chrome or stainless-steel

vanity cabinet and a tub, to allow for the shower

parts. You may add a shelf, if desired.

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 185

SINK AND VANITY DIMENSIONS

GFCI

Toilet

8 in.

Sink

6 in.

15 in.

Bathtub

Vanity cabinet

Centerline of

toilet

curtain to be easily drawn and to keep the vanity

from getting too wet.

Vanity with Drawers

For storing cosmetics, soaps, toothpaste, and other

• The distance from the vanity cabinet to the

bathroom items, nothing beats drawers. This unit

center of the toilet should be at least 15 in.; any

squeezes in as much drawer space as possible.

closer will feel overly cozy.

The design is easily modified to fit your bath-

• On each side of the sink’s bowl there should

room. This example uses a 31-in.-wide vanity sink

be at least 6 in. of counter (or deck) space, to

top, but you could include a wider or narrower top

keep water from splashing on the floor and to

as suits. The drawers are shown on the right here,

leave room for toothbrush and soap holders or

but they could go on the left if the location of your

dispensers and other toiletry objects. If you use

plumbing so dictates. And if you enlarge the vanity,

an integral sink, this will be built in.

the drawers could be wider or you could go with a

set of drawers on each side.

186 Bathroom Vanities

VANITY WITH DRAWERS

In this design, the position of the vertical cabinet divider, which determines the width of the drawers, depends on the plumbing. All parts are 3⁄4-in. plywood.

tip

Pocket screws

If the plumbing is smack

Top back

3

dab in the middle of the

0 in.

stretcher

1 ⁄2 in.

vanity location, you may

20

5 in.

be able to move some or

all of the plumbing over

Side

Vertical

Cleat

a bit, to allow you to

cabinet

divider

enlarge the drawers. Cut

out a section of drywall,

Stretcher

shut off the water supply,

32 in.

and consult Plumbing

Complete (Taunton Press,

Side

2009) for instructions

Screws

on cutting and attaching

supply and drain lines.

Bottom

4 in.

shelf

4 in.

Use finish nails

Bottom shelf

on exposed sides

support

Drawer divider

1 Using the guidelines on the fac-

ing page, determine the location

and size of the vanity. The plumbing

trap and supply lines need to go in

2 Measure the integral sink and plan on a vanity that is about the open cavity; unless you do some

1 in. narrower and shallower, so the sink will overhang

very fancy cutting or install shallow

1⁄2 in. on the sides and 1 in. on the front. Also roughly measure drawers, the plumbing cannot go

the depth of the bowl; this will determine how high your top behind the drawers (see Step 9

drawer can be.

on p. 190).

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 187

3 Following “Vanity with Drawers” on p. 187,

cut the side pieces, which have a cutout for

a toekick. Also cut a stretcher for the top back,

about 5 in. wide and the desired width of the

vanity minus 11⁄2 in. (281⁄2 in. in this example). Cut

two bottom shelf supports to the same length as

the top back stretcher and 4 in. wide (the height

of the toekick). Finally, cut a top front stretcher to

4 Adhere edge-banding to the front edges of

the same length as the others and the width of the

the sides (see pp. 57–58), which will be visi-sink depth (Step 2).

ble when the vanity is complete.

5 Attach the stretchers and bottom shelf sup-

ports to the sides of the vanity using pocket

screws so no fasteners will be visible on the vanity

sides (see pp. 64–65). Drill pocket-screw holes on the back sides of both ends of all four stretcher

and support pieces. Drive 11⁄4-in. coarse-thread

screws to attach to one side of the vanity, then

tip the assembly up onto the other side and drive

screws to attach to the other side of the vanity.

Keep all surfaces flush as you attach them.

188 Bathroom Vanities

6 Cut a bottom shelf to the same width as the

sides and the same length as the stretchers.

(Measure the open space to be sure of the

7 Cut a vertical cabinet divider which, along with

length.) Apply edge-banding to the front edge of

a side piece, will complete the opening for the

the bottom shelf. Press it into place and attach the

drawers. Make it the height from the bottom shelf

shelf to the bottom shelf supports with finish nails.

to the top of the stretchers and the same width

as the sides. Place the divider in the cabinet and

mark it at the bottom of the stretcher, as shown,

for notches on each side. Cut the notches and

apply edge-banding to the front edge, which will

be visible.

8 Mark for a cut out in the middle of the vertical

cabinet divider that roughly follows the contours

of the sink’s underside. This does not need to be very

accurate because it will not show. The bottom of the

cutout should be the same dimension as the front

stretcher (which was figured in Step 2), plus an inch

or so. Draw freehand or use paint cans to mark for

the curves. Cut with a jigsaw.

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 189

9 To determine the position of the vertical

cabinet divider, place the sink in place on

the vanity. Measure with a framing square and

tape measure or put the divider in place and

move it over as far as possible without inter-

fering with the sink’s plumbing. Check that it

is square to the bottom shelf and to the top

stretchers and mark its location at the bottom

shelf and the top stretchers.

tip

When positioning the

vertical cabinet divider,

place the faucet in its

holes and also check that

the piece will not get in the

way when you install

the drain line to the trap.

10 To attach the vertical cabinet

divider, cut two cleats about 4 in.

wide, for the front and back stretchers,

and attach them to the stretchers with

11⁄4-in. screws. Drive screws to attach

the vertical cabinet divider to the cleats,

as shown.

190 Bathroom Vanities

11 Confirm that the vertical cabinet divider is square to the bottom shelf and measure for the drawer dividers. Cut dividers that are 3 in. wide or so and apply edge-banding to the front edges. Mark the positions for the drawer dividers so the resulting openings will be 1⁄2 in. taller than the drawer boxes. Attach by applying glue and driving finish nails. (Use pocket screws if possible, but there will probably not be enough room to drive the screws.) As you work, check for square and see that the openings are consistent in dimensions.

12 Build drawer bodies that are 1 in. narrower

and 1⁄2 in. shorter in height than the open-

ings (see pp. 121–130). In most cases, 18-in.-

deep drawers will work well. Build and attach a

door with hinges, install the drawer hardware, and

attach the pulls.

13 Move the cabinet into position. Set the sink

top in place against the wall, and attach the

plumbing trap and the supply lines to the faucet.

Once the plumbing is installed, run a bead of

adhesive caulk along the underside of the top to

adhere it to the vanity.

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 191

Floating Vanity

As with the vanity with drawers project, this

design can be modified to fit neatly around your

A vanity that hangs from the wall with no legs or

plumbing, for maximum storage space. In my

other visible means of support makes for easy

example, the middle shelf (which isn't shown in the

cleaning and provides a fanciful, contemporary

drawing) had to be cut only to accommodate the

look. The project shown here has open shelving to

trap pipe that rises up to the sink. In your situation,

accommodate storage baskets, but you could add

you might need to cut around supply pipes as well.

doors or drawers.

This vanity is sized for a 31-in.-wide sink top

A floating vanity must be very strong and must be

but can be easily modified to suit other sizes. You

securely attached to wall studs. The design shown

may choose to install a wider vanity, with added

here, which relies on interlocking dadoes for rigidity,

countertop space. Also this vanity is 24 in. tall and

has been built many times by Mike Fish of Vogon

is installed 8 in. above the floor, but depending on

Construction in Chicago. He has personally stood

your vanity height preference you might choose to

and jumped on top of each one to test for strength.

install it at a different height. You may also want a

(He does this prior to installing the sink, of course.)

shorter unit, to make space for a wastebasket or

storage section underneath.

FLOATING VANITY

Dadoes in the sides and the top make for an interlocking structure that is surprisingly strong, enabling this vanity to stay together, even when an adult leans or sits on it. The bottom, sides, and back are 3⁄4-in. plywood.

The middle shelf, which is not shown, is 29 in. by 21 in.

1⁄2-in. plywood cleat

Top

Back is set in

281⁄2 in.

Dado for

dadoes and is 3⁄8 in.

back

Fits between sides

shorter than sides.

30 in.

291⁄4 in.

Dado, 3⁄8 in. by 3⁄4 in.

Back

24 in.

235⁄8 in.

1×2 cleat for shelf

1⁄2 in.

Back

Bottom

Face frame,

19 in.

in.

3⁄4 in. thick by

281⁄2 in.

1 ⁄4

21 in.

1 in. wide

19

Side

Top of back is 3⁄8 in.

lower than top of sides.

301⁄2 in.

192 Bathroom Vanities

tips

If you are able to get to the wall framing, go ahead

and install 2×10 blocking pieces that span stud to

stud, then cover with drywall; that will give you

extra fastening surface. But the added blocking is

not required; attaching solidly to two wall studs

(Step 9 on p. 196) will be plenty strong.

The photos in these steps show plywood that

has been stained ahead of time. For maximum

strength, make sure the wood remains unstained

at the critical glue points—in the dadoes and at

the ends of the back piece—because wood glue is

strongest when applied to bare wood.

1 Measure your plumbing and plan

for a vanity that makes good

use of your space. You may find that

moving the vanity up or down or to

the side by a couple of inches can

increase the usable space.

2 Cut the sides to length so they

are 11⁄4 in. shorter than the depth

of the sink top. (Once the face frame

is added, the sink top will overhang

the front of the vanity by 1⁄2 in.) Cut

the back piece to a length 13⁄4 in.

shorter than the length of the sink

top. (Accounting for the thicknesses

of the sides with dadoes, the sink top

will overhang the vanity by 1⁄2 in. on

each side.) The back should be 3⁄8 in.

shorter than the sides, as shown, so

that the top, which will also have a

dado, can set into the back and come

flush with the sides.

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 193

3 Set up a tablesaw or router table to cut a dado

in the sides that is 3⁄4 in. wide and 3⁄8 in. deep.

tip

Test the dado cut on a scrap piece, as shown.

For an extra-tight fit, cut a dado

that is precisely as wide as your

plywood, typically, 23⁄32 in.

4 Cut the dadoes along the inside back edges of

the side pieces. Slide the back piece into the

dadoes you just cut in the side pieces and check that

the back is 3⁄8 in. shorter than the sides. Attach the

sides to the back by applying glue and driving finish-

ing nails. Reinforce the joint by driving 2-in. wood or

deck screws every 6 in. or so. (Do not use drywall or

all-purpose screws, which are not very strong.)

194 Bathroom Vanities

5 Measure and cut

the bottom piece to

fit. Attach with glue and

finish nails. Reinforce

with screws.

6 Draw reference lines on the wall indicating the

outline of the vanity and measure for the loca-

tions of the holes for the plumbing. (If possible, shut

off the water and remove the stop valves and the

trap, so your holes can be small.) Using a spade bit

for the smaller holes and a hole saw for the larger

hole, drill just partway through the back, until the tip

of the bit pokes through. Then drill from the inside.

(This method reduces unattractive splinters on the

inside of the vanity.)

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 195

8 Measure and cut the top piece to fit between the sides.

7

Using the same dado setup as in Step 3 (p. 194), cut a

Add 1⁄2-in. plywood cleats to the back at the

dado in the underside of the top at the back. The top piece top and the bottom. Keep the top cleat 3⁄8 in.

should fit snugly via its dado onto the back piece and come below the top of the back piece. Drive a grid of

flush with the top of the side pieces. Attach with glue and nails 1-in. screws to fasten the cleats securely.

and reinforce with screws.

9 Line up the holes you cut in the back piece with

your plumbing. Use temporary supports to hold

the vanity in place and check for plumb. Locate the

wall studs and start driving 3-in. cabinet screws (not

drywall or all-purpose screws) through the back and

into the studs.

tip Locate the studs precisely,

so you drive screws

into their centers for

maximum strength.

196 Bathroom Vanities

10 Drive 2-in. deck or wood screws through

the top and anywhere else that might need

reinforcement. Sit or stand on the vanity, to make

sure it is solid and unmovable.

11 Cut holes for the sink top’s bowl and the

faucet. Measure carefully (or use a template,

if provided), so you cut only as much as you need

to. Even with a large cutout, the top will still be

plenty strong.

12 Attach the necessary plumbing, in this

case stop valves and the trap. Cut a middle

shelf to fit and cut notches as needed to accom-

modate the plumbing. Attach cleats to the inside

of the sides for the shelf to rest on. (Don’t attach

the middle shelf because you may need to repair

the plumbing in the future.)

13 Cut and attach 1× face-frame pieces that are

1 in. wide. Set the sink top in place and attach

the faucet, supply lines, and the drain trap. Run a

bead of adhesive caulk under the sink to secure it to

the vanity.

B a t h r o o m Va n i t i e s 197

credits

Introduction

p. 17 (top): Photo by Iriana

Chapter 8

p. 3: Photo courtesy of Tech

Shiyan/Shutterstock

p. 131: Illustration by Ron

Lighting (www.techlighting.com)

p. 17 (bottom): Photo by

Carboni

DarioEgidi/iStock

Chapter 1

p. 132: Illustration by Ron

p. 18 (top): Photo courtesy

Carboni

p. 6 (right): Photo courtesy

of Deep River Partners

of Tech Lighting

p. 133 (top and center):

(www.deep-river.com)

(www.techlighting.com)

Illustrations by Ron Carboni

p. 9: Illustrations by Ron

p. 18 (bottom): Photo by Sonya

p. 136: Illustration by Ron

Carboni

Etchison/Dreamstime

Carboni

p. 10 (left): Photo courtesy of

p. 19: Photo by Ginger

Chapter 9

Tech Lighting

Monteleo/Dreamstime

p. 178 (right): Photo courtesy

(www.techlighting.com)

p. 20 (top): Photo by Iriana

of Rev-a-Shelf

p. 11 (top left): Photo courtesy

Shiyan/Shutterstock

(www.rev-a-shelf.com)

of Tech Lighting

p. 20 (bottom): Photo

p. 178 (bottom): Photo

(www.techlighting.com)

courtesy of Inspired LED

courtesy of The Kohler

p. 11 (top right): Photo courtesy

(www.inspiredLED.com)

Company (www.kohler.com)

of Tech Lighting

p. 21: Photos courtesy of

p. 179: Photos courtesy of

(www.techlighting.com)

Tech Lighting

The Kohler Company

p. 11 (bottom left): Photo

(www.techlighting.com)

(www.kohler.com)

courtesy of Tech Lighting

Chapter 2

p. 180: Photos courtesy

(www.techlighting.com)

p. 30 (right): Photo courtesy of

of Tech Lighting

p. 11 (bottom right): Photo

Oneida Air Systems

(www.techlighting.com)

by Margoe Edwards/

(www.oneida-air.com)

p. 181 (left): Photo courtesy

Dreamstime

p. 31 (top right): Photo

of The Kohler Company

p. 12: Photos courtesy of

courtesy of Oneida Air

(www.kohler.com)

Tech Lighting

Systems (www.oneida-air.com)

p. 181(right): Photo courtesy

(www.techlighting.com)

of Tech Lighting

p. 13 (bottom): Photo courtesy

Chapter 3

(www.techlighting.com)

of Deep River Partners

p. 47: Illustration by Ron

(www.deep-river.com)

Carboni

Chapter 10

p. 15: Illustration by Ron

p. 185 (top): Photo courtesy

Chapter 6

Carboni

of Tech Lighting

p. 95: Illustration by Ron

(www.techlighting.com)

p. 16: Photo courtesy of

Carboni

Tech Lighting

p. 185 (bottom): Photo

(www.techlighting.com)

courtesy of The Kohler

Company (www.kohler.com)

198

index

A

open shelves, 21

Doors and drawer faces, 10–14, 131–60.

overlay and inset options, 17, 66, 67

See also Frame-and-panel doors; Raised

Accessories, installing, 176–78

wall cabinets, 17, 68

panels

Alder wood, 44

Corner cabinets

about: overview of, 10, 131

Appliances, cabinets above, 19

accessories/organizers, 178

attaching drawer faces, 171

Assembly table, 81

base, 115–21

bead door profiles, 133, 134

configuration options, 17–19

cottage-style, 13–14, 158

B

dimensions, 95–96, 115

cove profiles, 133, 134, 145

Bandsaws, 30

face-frame, 95–101, 120–21

design test tip, 10

Base cabinets, 105–30. See also

frameless, 102–05, 116–20

end panels mimicking, 10, 176

Bathroom vanities; Installing cabinets

with shelf/lazy susan, 17–19, 115–16,

glass doors, 14, 159–60

about: overview of, 105

178

harmonizing drawer faces, 132

base options, 107–09

wall, 95–104

ogee profiles, 133, 134, 145

continuous frame under, 109

Cottage-style doors/drawer faces, 13–14,

overlay and inset options, 17, 66, 67

corner, 115–21

158

Shaker-style, 12, 13, 132, 133, 134,

cut lists and charts, 107

Countertops, 178–83

138–42

design options. See Design

dimensions, 8, 69, 178

slab, 10–11, 156–57

dimensions, 8, 66–69, 106, 115

installing granite/quartz, 182–83

style options, 10–14

face-frame, 114

materials options, 179–81

Dowel jig, 32

frameless, 110–13

sink options, 179

Dowels, hidden-dowel face frame, 75–77

getting ready, 105–07

Cove lighting, 20

Drawer slides, 169–71

leveling legs for, 108

Cove profiles, 133, 134, 145

Drawers, 121–30. See also Doors and

toekick/kick plate, 8, 18, 69, 106, 109,

Crown molding, 12, 21, 24–25, 41, 87

drawer faces

114, 188

Cutting. See also specific cabinets

accessories/organizers, 176–78

Bathroom vanities, 184–97

with circular saws, 54–55

attaching faces, 171

about: overview of, 184

crosscutting with miter saw, 56

design test tip, 10

with drawers, 186–91

dadoes and rabbets, 61–62, 88

dimensions, 121

floating vanity, 192–97

face frame pieces, 69–71

guidelines for building, 121

planning layout, 185–86

minimizing tearout, 53, 86, 87

with locking joint, 129–30

style selection, 184

sheet goods, 51–55, 87

mitered, 126–27

Bead door profiles, 133, 134

pocket-screw body, 122–26

Beaded face frames, 78–79

routered, 128–30

D

Biscuit joiners, 34

Drawings, design layout, 7, 9

Dadoes, cutting, 61–62, 88

Drill, cordless, 32

Depth of cabinets, 8

C

Drill presses, 29

Design

Drilling

Cherry wood, 45

configuration options, 15–21

pilot holes, 59, 63–64

Circular saws

details and drawings, 7–9

pocket screw holes, 60, 64–65

crosscutting with, 55

dimensions, basics of, 8

self-centering bits (Vix®), 167

cutting sheet goods with, 54–55

door and drawer face options, 10–14

shelving holes, 89–90

features and uses, 31

elevation view, 9

Dust collection, 30–31

guides for, 55

hardware options, 11

Clamps, 34–35

kitchen layout/work triangle, 4–7

E

Common lumber, nos. 1 and 2, 44

plan view, 9

Configurations of cabinets. See also

software, 7, 82

Edge-banding

Dimensions

Dimensions. See also Configurations of

applying, 57–58, 60

base cabinets, 68

cabinets

melamine, 60

cabinets above appliances, 19

base cabinets, 8, 66–69, 106, 115

wood veneer, 37, 57–58

corner cabinets, 17–19

basics, 8

Edging with solid wood, 156

design options, 15–21

corner cabinets, 95–96, 115

Electrical wiring, 173–74

face-frame vs. frameless, 15–16

countertops, 8, 69, 178

End panels, 10, 176

height of wall cabinets, 17

drawers, 121

islands, 19–21

face frames, 66–69

wall cabinets, 8, 17, 66, 68, 82–83,

95–96

199

F

style options, 12–13

prepping for, 174

tablesaw-cut Shaker doors, 138–42

trim between cabinets, 176

Face frames, 66–79

understanding parts, 132–33

wall cabinets, 174–75

about: overview of, 66

Frameless cabinets

Islands, 6, 8, 19–21

attaching, 94

assembling, 90–93

base cabinet configurations, 68

base cabinets, 110–13, 116–20

J

beaded, 78–79

corner cabinets, 102–05, 116–20

cutting/preparing pieces, 69–71

Jig saws, 31

drawings, 15, 83

dimensions, 66–69

Joiners, biscuit, 34

face-frame cabinets vs., 15–16, 83

hidden-dowel, 75–77

Jointers, 28

features and benefits, 16

for inset doors, 67

Jointing

possible downsides, 16

overlays, 17, 66, 67

handplanes for, 28

wall cabinets, 82, 85–93, 102–04

planning, 66–69

jointer for, 28

pocket-screwing, 71–72

raised panels, 146–48

G

screw-and-plug, 73–74

on router table, 26, 61

wall cabinet configuration, 68

Glass doors, 14, 159–60

on tablesaw, 146–48

Face-frame cabinets. See also Base

Gluing

cabinets; Corner cabinets; Wall cabinets

clean-up, 63

K

features and benefits, 15

fastened surfaces, 62–63

frameless cabinets vs., 15–16, 83

Kitchen, layout/work triangle, 4–7

glue for, 149

illustrated, 15

raised panels, 149–50

FAS boards, 43

smoothing surface for, 151

L

Fasteners

Grain patterns, of plywood, 38–39

Lazy susans, 17–19, 115–16, 178

attachment instructions, 62–65

Grains, of hardwoods, 45–46

Leveling legs, 108

glue with, 62–63

Lighting, cove, 20

for hardware installation, 167

H

Lighting, under-cabinet, 8, 173

in melamine, 59–60

nails, 62, 63

Hardware. See also Hinges

drawer slides, 169–71

M

pilot holes for, 59, 63–64

pocket screws, 60, 64–65, 71–72

options, 11

Maple wood, 45

screw-and-plug, 73–74

pulls and knobs, 172

Marking, measuring and, 50–51, 70–71

screws, 59–60, 175

self-centering bits (Vix®) for, 167

MDF (medium-density fiberboard)

Finish sprayers, 35

Hardwoods, 41–49

advantages and disadvantages, 40

Finishing, 162–66

blemishes/character marks, 46–49

cutting, 51–55

application methods, 35

defects, 47

minimizing tearout, 53, 86, 87

brushing/wiping, 165–66

grades, 43–44

panel, making, 155

dust collection and, 30–31

grains, 45–46

plywood cores, 37–38

frame-and-panel, 162–63

moisture content, 43

Measuring. See also Dimensions

options, 164–66

reconstituted veneer sheets, 41

guidelines for marking and, 50–51,

order of work, 161, 162

selecting lumber, 41–43, 46

70–71

polyurethane options, 166

species, 44–45

tape measure for, 33

prepping/sanding, 71, 163–64

Height of cabinets, 8, 17, 106

Melamine

spraying, 164–65

Hickory wood, 44

advantages and disadvantages, 40

Flat-with-shoulder profile, 133

Hinges

auxiliary fence plan, 151

Flooring considerations, 17, 18

buying, 80, 167

cutting, 24, 31, 52, 59

F1F boards, 43

drilling partial-depth holes for, 29, 168

edge-banding, 60

Frame-and-panel doors. See also Raised

installing/adjusting, 168–69

face frames, 70

panels

matching to overlays, 67

fastening with screws, 59–60, 64–65

calculating part sizes, 136–37

mounting options, 15, 16

particleboard covered with (MCP), 40,

dimensions, 132, 136–37

types and characteristics, 167

41

finishing, 162–63

slab doors, 156

frame width, 134

I

working with, 59–60

joinery details, 131

Miter saw, power

Inset and overlay options, 17, 66, 67

lumber selection, 135

about: features and uses, 24–25

Installing cabinets, 173–83. See also

planning, 132–37

crosscutting with, 56

Bathroom vanities

plywood panels, 12

guides for, 56

accessories/organizers, 176–78

profile selection, 133–34

testing before using, 25

base cabinets, 175–76

raised panels, 12–13

Mitered drawer, 126–27

cabinet screws for, 175

router speeds and bits for, 134, 135,

countertops/sinks, 178–83

136

electrical/plumbing and, 173–74

sorting and cut list, 137–38

flooring and, 17

200 Index

N

Routered drawer boxes, 128–30

Tape measure, 33

Routers and router tables

Thickness planers, 28, 29

Nailers, power, 33

about: features and uses, 26–27

Toekick, 8, 18, 69, 106, 109, 114, 188

bit gauges, 143

Tools. See also specific tools

O

buying bit sets, 135

about: overview of, 22

changing bits, 27

handheld, 31–35

Oak woods, 44

jointing on, 26, 61

stationary, 22–31

Ogee profiles, 133, 134, 145

shapers and, 27

Overlay and inset options, 17, 66, 67

speeds by bit diameter, 134

U

table options, 26–27

P

Routing

Under-cabinet lighting, 8, 173

matching heights, 144

Particleboard, 40

rails and stiles, 143–45

V

Pilot holes, 59, 63–64

raised-panel edge profiles, 154–55

Planers, thickness, 28, 29

Vanities. See Bathroom vanities

Planes, hand, 33

Plumbing lines, 173–74, 186, 187, 191,

S

W

193, 196

Sanders, hand, 33

Plywood

Wall cabinets, 80–104. See also

Sanders, power, 32

Baltic birch, 38

Installing cabinets

Sanding/prepping, 71, 163–64

core types, 37–38

about: overview of, 80

Saws. See also Miter saw, power; Tablesaw

cutting, 51–55, 87

above appliances, 19

bandsaw, 30

features and benefits, 36–37

assembling, 90–94

circular, 31

grades, cuts, matching options, 38–39

assembly table for, 81

jig, 31

hardwood veneers on, 37, 38

attaching face frame, 94

power miter, 24–25

precut components, 42

basic, building/assembling, 85–94

radial-arm, 25

Pocket screws, 50, 64–65, 71–72

basic construction, 82–83

Scrapers, hand, 33

Pocket-hole jigs, 34

corner, building (face-frame/

Screws. See Fasteners

Poplar wood, 44

frameless), 95–104

Select boards, 43

Prime grade lumber, 44

crown molding, 12, 21, 24–25, 41, 87

Shaker profile, 133

Pulls and knobs, attaching, 172

cut lists/charts, planning, 85, 86

Shaker-style doors/drawer faces, 12, 13,

design options, 83–84 ( see also

132, 133, 134, 138–42

Q

Design)

Shapers, 27

dimensions, 8, 17, 66, 68, 82–83,

Sheet goods. See also MDF; Melamine;

Quarter-round profile, 133

95–96

Plywood

drilling adjustable shelving holes,

checking for damage, 106

R

89–90

cutting, 51–55

frameless, 82, 85–93, 102–04

Rabbets, cutting, 61–62

types and characteristics, 36–41

getting ready, 80–81

Radial-arm saw, 25

Shelves

partial-shelf option, 111

Rails and stiles, 132–33, 134, 143–45,

adjustable, drilling holes for, 89–90

prefinished frameless, assembling,

152

open, 21

93

calculating sizes for doors, 134

partial, 111

Walnut wood, 44–45

corner wall cabinet, 102, 103, 104

slide-out, 177

White oak wood, 44

cutting with tablesaw, 138–40, 152

Sinks, 179, 185

Wood, 36–49. See also Hardwoods

face-frame, 66, 67, 68, 70–71, 72, 76

Slab doors/drawer faces, 10–11, 156–57

edge-bandings, 37

for glass doors, 159, 160

Smoothing plane, 151

edging with solid strips, 156

overlays, 66

Software, design, 7, 82

matching looks, 37

routing for doors, 143–45 ( see also

Sprayers/spraying finishes, 35, 164–65

precut components, 42

Frame-and-panel doors)

Squares, 34

sheet goods, 36–41 ( see also

style options, 13, 17

specific types of sheet goods)

Raised panels, 136

T

summary of uses by type, 36

gluing, 149–50

Table, assembly, 81

joinery details, 131

Tablesaw

jointing, 146–48

about: features and uses, 22–24

MDF, making, 155

auxiliary fence plan, 151

profile selection, 133, 134

cutting dadoes with, 88

router bits for, 135

cutting sheet goods with, 51–53

routing edge profile, 154–55

jointing on, 146–48

shaping on tablesaw, 151–53

minimizing tearout, 53, 86, 87

typical dimensions, illustrated, 132

Shaker doors with, 138–42

Red oak wood, 44

shaping raised panel on, 151–53

Index 201

If you like this book,

you’ll love Fine Homebuilding.

Read Fine Homebuilding Magazine:

Get eight issues, including our two annual design

issues, Houses and Kitchens & Baths, plus FREE

tablet editions. Packed with expert advice and skill-

building techniques, every issue provides the latest

information on quality building and remodeling.

FREE

Subscribe today at:

tablet

editions

FineHomebuilding.com/4Sub

Taunton’s

Discover our Fine Homebuilding

Kitchen

i d e a b o o k

Online Store:

Cabinets

Countertops

It’s your destination for premium resources from

Storage

Fixtures

America’s best builders: how-to and design books,

DVDs, videos, special interest publications, and more.

Visit today at:

J o a n n e K e l l a r B o u K n i g h t

FineHomebuilding.com/4More

Get our FREE Fine Homebuilding

eNewsletter:

Keep up with the current best practices, the newest

tools, and the latest materials, plus free tips and

advice from Fine Homebuilding editors.

Sign up, it’s free:

FineHomebuilding.com/4Newsletter

Become a FineHomebuilding.com member:

Join to enjoy unlimited access to premium content and

exclusive benefits, including: 1,400+ articles; 350 tip,

tool, and technique videos; our how-to video project

series; over 1,600 field-tested tips; monthly giveaways;

tablet editions; contests; special offers; and more.

Discover more information online:

FineHomebuilding.com/4Join

T

© 2015 The Taunton Press

t

HOUSE & HOME

FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF FINE HOMEBUILDING

Build Custom Cabinets to Suit

Your Space and Budget

When you build your own cabinets you can

• Build face-frame or

custom-fi t them to your space, style, and

frameless cabinets

storage needs. And you can do it all at a lower

• Construct drawers and

cost than buying ready-made cabinets. With some

doors in a variety of styles

common tools, basic skills, and guidance from

Building Kitchen Cabinets and Bathroom Vanities,

• Install both wall-hung and

anyone can tackle this project. We’ll take you step

base cabinets

by step through the entire process from design to

• Improve storage with

construction, installation, and fi nishing with easy-

hardware and accessories

to-follow instructions and photography. Whatever

your skill level, we’ll help you build the kitchen or

• Build a fl oating or

bath you’ve always dreamed of.

traditional vanity

STEVE CORY has worked for

Visit www.fi nehomebuilding.com for the most

trusted building information online and to learn

many years as a remodeler and

about Fine Homebuilding magazine and other

cabinetmaker and has written and

homebuilding products from The Taunton Press.

photographed over 50 how-to books,

The Taunton Press

63 South Main Street

including his most recent Outdoor

P.O. Box 5506

Wood Projects. He works with his

Newtown, CT 06470-5506

www.taunton.com

wife, Diane Slavik. She is in charge

Look for other Taunton Press books

of beauty; he is in charge of truth.

wherever books are sold or visit our

website at www.tauntonstore.com.

Taunton Product #077557

Document Outline

Front Cover

Half Title Page

Title Page

Copyright Page

Acknowledgements

Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 Design

Chapter 2 Tools

Chapter 3 Wood

Chapter 4 Basic Building Methods

Chapter 5 Face Frames

Chapter 6 Wall Cabinets

Chapter 6 Base Cabinets and Drawer Bodies

Chapter 8 Doors and Drawer Faces

Chapter 9 Finising and Installing

Chapter 10 Bathroom Vanities

Credits

Index

Back Cover