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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.

Photography by Samantha Hartman

Cover design by Jane Sheppard

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-5107-2782-3

Ebook ISBN: 978-1-5107-2785-4

Printed in China

Introduction

As a high school senior, my career aptitude test recommended I go to college for roller coaster design. The results for my friends showed them as teachers, lawyers, or doctors, and mine left me back at square one with something as realistic as hitting the lottery. What did I like to do? I liked to create. Such a gratifying feeling comes along with creating something with your own two hands, a feeling of self-accomplishment and pride. I had always been the crafty kid in class; the one people went to for help with projects and ideas. Reminiscing back to my younger years, I cherish those memories—destined from the beginning to do what I love.

Coming from a creative family played a huge role in my childhood. I can remember making paper chains the length of the house, twisting them around the beams in our living room and using every last scrap of paper and tape. One of the handiest people I know, my dad can build, fix, or find a solution for almost anything. My sister and I wanted a small house for our McDonald’s Beanie Babies to play in; he built it. It was not just any house, though. It was wooden with carpeted floors, including beds for Leo the Lion and Doby the Doberman to sleep in, and little doors for them to go through. We played with that house for hours and decorated it as if it were our own.

My love of participating in craft shows and pretty much everything crafty comes from my mom. I remember the huge workspace she had in the basement when I was young, stocked full of paint and supplies, odds and ends, and ideas. She would fill our Christmas stockings with craft kits, take us to classes, and always encourage our creativity, which led me to winning a bicycle in a coloring contest as a child.

A few years ago I started a small business called Infinite Abyss. Etsy was just taking off back then and I wanted so badly to sell my items on there. Bouncing around from jewelry to purses to whatever I could think of, I had to get my line more organized and settle on one medium. I took stained glass and ceramics classes at community college and although I really enjoyed them, I did not see that as something I could realistically do on my own at that point in time. Digging through my mom’s old stash of fabric, I discovered tons of unique patterns and colors and decided to focus my line on sewing. For years I created pieces including purses and totes and really got my foot in the door with the Etsy circuit. Getting accepted into my first juried craft show opened up a whole new set of doors. I found a sense of community and loved meeting other makers, especially in new areas outside my hometown of Pittsburgh. Before long, I spent my weekends traveling to cities such as Baltimore, Philadelphia, Detroit, and Cleveland to participate in shows, selling my wares and forming lifelong connections with other crafty individuals.

Searching for a change of scenery, I moved clear across the country from Pennsylvania to Wyoming. After settling in, I realized I needed a break from sewing. While I still enjoyed doing it, I just did not find it as satisfying as I did in the past. I gained access to an amazing woodshop space and spent several weeks tinkering around with some new ideas.

Taking after my dad, woodworking remained something I always enjoyed, but lacked the space, previously living in the city. Now in a much rural area and surrounded by tons of reclaimed wood, I put my new materials to good use. A few months later, I had a line of rustic-inspired home decor, including serving trays and barnwood shelves, that took off and brought my online shop more traffic than ever. I had finally found my niche.

When the opportunity for this book arose, I simply could not pass it by. As an avid reader of craft books myself, I always reference them when I want to build a new project, come up with an idea, or just gain some visual inspiration, and I am excited to contribute my own ideas to help someone do just that.

One of my greatest inspirations includes working with those reclaimed materials found where I live. They possess such an interesting history and unique characteristics that are used to create beautiful, one-of-a-kind pieces. By looking at some of the finished products, one would never guess they are made from materials that would have otherwise been discarded, but that is the beauty of it. I wanted to carry that feeling over into this book, by showing that wood pallet projects do not necessarily have to look like they came from wood pallets. Those old, weathered boards can be transformed into beautiful, chic pieces with a few hours and a little elbow grease.

Whether you are a first-time crafter or an experienced woodworker, this book contains a project for you. Meant as a guide, the designs on the following pages will get you started, but I encourage you to finish the pieces in unique ways. The photographs will provide some ideas on how to style the pieces, but every home is different. Each piece can be painted, stained, finished, wallpapered, or simply left natural to match its surroundings.

As you read through, you will notice the versatility of the projects and discover several uses for each. When writing this book, I wanted to create pieces that could be built more than once and for different purposes. For example, one might use the Farmhouse Spice Rack to hold spices, as the title suggests, or to display jars of buttons, a small collection of clocks, or a colorful array of paints and brushes. Use your imagination to come up with creative solutions for your home and, most importantly, have fun doing it!

CHAPTER ONE

GETTING STARTED WITH WOOD PALLETS

Where to Find Them

Wood pallets are easily accessible items that can be found almost anywhere. Businesses such as grocery stores, hardware stores, and lumber-yards often have them lying around and are happy to give them away for free. I’ve also found them through construction companies and businesses that have items shipped in crates. Make sure you ask first just to be sure; sometimes pallets are sent back to the companies they came from.

It really is true that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. When I was telling some friends about the projects I was building for this book, a lot of them offered me a few pallets that they’d gotten either from work, someone they knew, or their own yard. You can also check the local classified ads and Craigslist. Use your imagination! It doesn’t hurt to ask around, because you never know where you’ll find them.

How to Take Them Apart

Taking apart wood pallets is not a difficult task, although it does require a bit of muscle and some patience. Start by laying the pallet on the ground, making sure there’s ample room to work around it. If the boards on the edges are cracked or you just need smaller pieces for a project, use a circular saw to cut along the center braces and remove the usable parts. For longer pieces and whole boards, use a crowbar and hammer. Remove any nails that are already sticking out and hammer the crowbar under the edges, carefully pulling up a bit at a time around the nails to make sure you don’t crack the board.

You can also use the hammer to hit the board from behind where it connects to the thicker brace to loosen it up, but do only a little bit at a time, because it’s easier to crack the boards that way. A reciprocating saw will cut through the nails, so cutting between the brace and the board is an option, but it may be more difficult to get the nails out of the wood if you take the boards apart that way. Whichever method you choose, be sure to use proper safety equipment.

Necessary Tools and Materials

Even if you’re a novice to woodworking, finding the tools needed for the projects in this book is fairly simple. You’re more than welcome to buy a brand-new set of tools, but there are alternative routes for those who aren’t quite ready to make that investment. Odds are, a family member or friend will have a tool or two you could borrow. You can also rent tools from the hardware store, buy them from pawn shops, estate sales, and thrift shops, or purchase them on websites such as Amazon or Craigslist.

One of my all-time favorite places to get tools is at flea markets. No matter where you’re located, there are always people selling tools, and in my experience, they’ll offer a pretty good discount so they don’t have to haul them back home. My first “tool set” included a miter saw my dad gave me, a canvas bag of random items such as old jars of nails and screwdrivers I’d collected from the thrift store, and a drill from a flea market. I still have all of those tools today, although I’ve upgraded some over the years and expanded my collection. Needless to say, there are many different ways to start a great collection of tools to fit any budget.

Some of the basic items recommended for this book include a hammer, a drill, drill bits, variously sized nails, a miter saw, a table saw, a tape measure, a jigsaw, sandpaper, and wood glue. Items such as a nail gun and palm sander are not required, but they are tools that can be picked up relatively cheaply and will make the building process a lot easier. A drill press or band saw may be used in place of a drill or jigsaw, but they’re not necessary. Both will work just fine and the projects have been adapted to be used with either. A larger item such as a table saw is a great thing to have, and a small portable one can be picked up for around $100. If you absolutely can’t get one, a jigsaw may be used in its place. Simply clamp a skinny board on top of the one you’re going to cut and use that “fence” to cut a straight line.

For every project, it’s recommended that you use both wood glue and nails when assembling the pieces together to ensure a sturdy hold. It’s also important to use various grits of sandpaper on each, especially if the item will be painted or stained. Although I chose to leave some of my final pieces natural, I still sanded them well to get rid of the rough edges and holes where the nails once were. When you purchase sandpaper, a variety pack will work just fine. If you’re using sanding discs, I would recommend picking up a few packs of each size. You’ll be surprised by how quickly pallet wood uses up sandpaper, regardless of the grit or type you choose. Always start the sanding process with a lower-grit paper because it’s rougher and will be good for removing the hard edges from the pallets. Work your way up to a higher grit to get the pallet nice and smooth, keeping in mind that the higher the grit, such as 220, the finer the paper will be.

All of the projects in this book use wood pallets as the main material. Some of them use other unique materials, which are discussed in the next section, and some of them incorporate basic lumber from the hardware store. Each project will list which tools and materials are needed for that piece, but be sure to read through the instructions before trying to understand the sizes and placement of the boards. For example, the Nightstand asks for 12 of the same-size boards for the top and shelves, but maybe you’ve saved four boards with an amazing weathered texture for the top. It would be important to read the instructions before beginning to know which four boards should be saved for the assembly of the top.

It’s also important to keep in mind that pallets come in all different sizes. Most of the boards I used for this book were around 28 inches long, 4½ inches wide, and ½ inch thick, and I used a table saw to rip them down according to the project. Some use 3½-inch-wide boards or 1½-inch strips. If you have pallet boards that width, feel free to use them up instead of ripping down wider boards.

Since all the boards I used were ½ inch thick, all of the measurements are based on that. It’s a pretty standard thickness for pallets, but I have seen some that are different. Using thicker boards is totally fine, but be sure to read through the project first and see if that will work. For example, for the Knickknack Cubby Shelf, the trim on the front is ½ inch thick, so the boards used for the shelves are ½ inch shorter to make the trim flush with the front. If you used a ¾-inch-thick board for the trim, it would stick out ¼ inch and you’d need to cut those shelf boards down an extra ¼ inch for your project.

Additional Tools and Materials

As you look through the projects in this book you’ll find that several of them use additional materials such as spindles, pieces of pipe, old windows, table legs, and branches. Using other reclaimed objects really brings character into a piece and makes it one of a kind. Although those things may not be as easy to come by as pallets, they are still there—you just have to know where to look. Visit your local antique shop, reclaimed building supply store, or even hardware store for ideas. If you have to buy something new, such as pipe, spray-paint it or apply a patina to make it look old to match your project. Be sure to also check out thrift stores, estate and yard sales, flea markets, and Craigslist; even if you don’t find what you set out to, you might come home with something even better.

A few years back I picked up a cheap table from a flea market for only five dollars. I hadn’t planned on using the table, but it had really beautiful Midcentury Modern–style legs, so I discarded the top and used the legs to build my own table. If you’re using branches or logs, make sure they’re well dried out. It’s best to find them naturally; I don’t recommend cutting them fresh because not only will this harm the tree but the branches will take a long time to dry before you can to use them.

Don’t feel pressured to stick to the materials suggested in this book. If you find something else or want to reuse an object you have lying around the house, do it! Old pieces of barnwood, unique knobs or hooks, vintage wallpaper, or scraps of fabric can be incorporated to make a really beautiful piece.

Safety Tips

When using tools, always be sure to follow proper safety measures, especially when working with old materials. Safety goggles are very important and should be worn often, whether you’re using a table saw or tearing pallets apart. A piece of wood or a stray nailhead could come flying out of nowhere and cause injury. Heavy work gloves are also a good item to keep around. When you’re collecting pallets, gloves will protect your hands from splinters, nails, and any sharp edges where boards are cracked or rough.

If some of the tools in this book are new, be sure to practice with them until they feel comfortable. Don’t be afraid to ask someone for a demonstration, whether it be a family member, a friend, or the person working at the tool-rental area of a hardware store. When using power tools, remember to always keep your fingers clear of the blade and use a push stick on the table saw for narrow boards.

Paint, Finish, and Sealing Materials

There are so many different ways to finish these projects that, no matter what look you’re going for, you’ll find it. For the most part, I love to keep wood as natural as possible, so I rarely paint it and use a lot of wax and wood stain instead. These both come in a variety of colors, and I find it convenient to keep a few small cans of each in my shop. Before applying them to a project, brush a small square of each on a scrap pallet board to see how the wood takes the color. My go-to color for everything is a dark brown stain, but I was surprised to see just how dark it looked on pallet wood. For some projects, I applied a lighter wax but went back and highlighted some of the unique markings with a darker wax to really make them pop. Make sure you read the drying time and instructions on each product, wear rubber gloves when applying them, and use them in a ventilated area.

For projects such as the Chevron Coffee Table and the Bar Cart, I used a triple-thick polyurethane to really seal them well and make them water-resistant. That can be applied with a paintbrush and it works wonders to create a beautiful shine on a piece. Clear wax also works well for projects that you want to seal but not make super-glossy.

When I did use paint, I used a variety of different types, depending on the project. For some of the accents, such as the red cross on the Medicine Cabinet, I used standard acrylic paint from the craft store. The chalk paint used on projects such as the Knickknack Cubby Shelf and the outside of the Medicine Cabinet really looked great when distressed and sanded, and it added a nice texture as well. On the Modern Bookshelf, I picked out a color swatch at the hardware store and had them mix up a sample can. Those small cans are inexpensive and they last a long time; I put two coats on the bookshelf and the majority of the can is still left for other projects. The Bar Cart used spray paint for the legs to get a nice gold shine, and chalk paint covered with lacquer for the rest.

Those are just a few ideas to get you started, but use whatever you think will work best for your project. On the pieces that use wallpaper or scrapbook paper for accents, a spray mount with a strong bond will work best. Using a vintage wallpaper on the back of the Modern Bookshelf or painting the lid boards of the Storage Chest in an ombre color would be a great way to finish either piece.

Workspace

Although a workshop is not needed for these projects, I would recommend having a designated area for building. Sawdust is very fine and will cover everything—trust me! A folding table set up in the garage or out in the yard on a sunny day will work just fine. I like to stay organized when I’m working on projects to make sure I don’t mix up pieces or get glue all over the place, so I use a lot of storage containers to hold tools, extra nails, and wood scraps. It’s also important to keep the paint area separate from the cutting area to ensure dust doesn’t stick to a wet project and ruin it.

PROJECTS

CHAPTER TWO

MAKE YOUR HOUSE A HOME

Chevron Coffee Table

If there’s one project that you decide to leave with a natural finish, make it the Chevron Coffee Table. If you choose a pallet that varies in color and texture, you can create a really beautiful table simply through the weathering and history of the wood. The pallet I found had been sitting outside for a long time and the wood was old and brittle, but once I cleaned it up and put those final few coats of lacquer on the table, it easily turned into one of my favorite pieces in the book.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1" nails

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Circular saw

• Ruler or square

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Top (12): 8¼" × 3⅜"
Trim (2): 2½" × ¾" × 8' boards (standard 1×3×8 from lumberyard)

• One 28¾" × 11⅛" piece of ⅝" plywood

• Four table legs

Instructions

1. Take one of the 8¼" pieces and cut off both ends at a 45-degree angle, making sure that both angles face the same way to create a parallelogram shape. Repeat with the remaining 11 pieces.

2. Lay the boards out on the piece of plywood in a chevron shape, lining them up in the middle. They will overhang on each end.

3. Once you have the pieces arranged in a pattern you like, lift them up one at a time and apply wood glue underneath. Nail the corners of each board with 1" nails for extra support. Let dry.

4. Flip the piece over and carefully cut along the plywood on the two short ends to cut off the boards that are hanging over. You can use a jigsaw, bandsaw, or circular saw for this, whichever you’re most comfortable with. Flip the piece back over.

5. Take the extra pieces cut off in Step 4 and fit them into the two empty spots on the top and bottom of the table. The pieces will go on the end opposite to the one they were cut from. Glue and nail into place.

6. Since I used a really old pallet for my project, the texture of the boards was varied and the edges needed trimming. Should that happen to you, flip the piece over and use a ruler or square to draw a straight line, then use the circular saw to trim along the plywood edge and even out the edges.

7. Measure each side of the table and add the width of the trim (¾"). Cut four pieces from the trim boards, two short and two long, and sand them smooth. If you choose to finish them in a different color than the table, do so now; it’s easier to paint or stain them before attaching.

8. Once the trim is dry, take one of the long pieces and place it on one long edge of the table. Line one end up flush so it overhangs ¾" on the other end, and measure ½" from the top so there’s a lip around the table top. It may be tricky to hold all those things in place at once, so I found this to be easiest: line the edges up flush and measure down ½" on the end, inserting a 1½" nail to tack the board in place. Then you can move down to the other end, measure down ½", and insert another nail while the other side is stabilized. Glue and nail the rest of the trim in place.

9. Repeat Step 8 with the other three trim pieces, moving around the edges and lining the ends up until it’s all in place.

10. Flip the piece over and attach a leg plate to each corner using the included hardware. Check to make sure the included screws aren’t too long; if they are you’ll need to provide your own. Screw in the legs.

11. Finish the table with a few coats of lacquer for a water-resistant surface and to preserve the characteristics of the wood.

Rustic Nightstand

When refurbishing a spare bedroom, I found that the furniture I had on hand didn’t fit the room—the look was off, the pieces were too big, and it just didn’t feel complete. Rather than spend hours searching for something that would work, I decided to build my own, and the Rustic Nightstand was born. Although small in size, this piece has tons of storage space, with a drawer for holding smaller items and a bottom shelf that’s perfect for an extra blanket or a basket of books. Whether you finish it to match a dresser you already have or leave it natural, it’s sure to complement the rest of the room and act as a functional piece of furniture.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• ¾" nails

• 1" nails

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Drill

• Drill bit one size smaller than the drawer pull

• Ruler or square

• Level

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Shelves (12): 15½" × 3½"
Sides (8): 25" × 4"
Front trim (3): 14" × 1"
Back (1): 14" × 3¾"
Braces (6): 14" × 1½"
Drawer front and back (2): 13½" × 3"
Drawer sides (2): 14" × 3"

• One 13½" × 15" piece of lauan plywood

• Drawer pull

Instructions

1. Take four of the shelf pieces and lay them out to form the top of the nightstand, with the good sides down. Lay one brace piece on each end to hold the top pieces together and secure in place with glue and ¾" nails. Repeat with the remaining shelf and brace pieces to form three shelves. Sand smooth.

2. To attach the sides to the top of the nightstand, line one of the side boards up with the top edge of one of the shelves created in Step 1, making sure it’s flush with the side and top of one of the brace pieces. Glue and nail in place with 1½" nails. Attach three more side pieces along the edge, leaving a ½" overhang on the front. Repeat with the other side of the nightstand, making sure the overhang is facing in the same direction.

3. On the back of the nightstand, attach the back piece under the top shelf, securing it in place from the top and sides with glue and 1½" nails.

4. Flip the piece over so it’s sitting upside down and insert another one of the shelves. Be sure the brace pieces are flush with the back piece inserted in Step 3. Tack the back two corners in place with two nails from the outside to make the shelf easier to work with. Use a level to make sure the shelf is level and use nails to attach it firmly in place.

5. Use the ruler or square to mark off along the sides where the nails should go to make it easier to attach, and secure all around with glue and 1½" nails.

6. Measure 2½" from the bottom of each inside corner to find the placement for the bottom shelf. Place the shelf on the outside of each line and attach it in place with nails, making sure it’s flush with the back of the nightstand and the brace pieces are against the sides.

7. Turn the nightstand with the front facing forward. Attach a front trim piece on each shelf to cover the raw edges.

8. To create the drawer, lay out the front, back, and side pieces to form a box and secure them with wood glue and 1½" nails, making sure the front and back boards are on the outside of the two shorter sides.

9. Attach the piece of lauan to the bottom by gluing around the edges and nailing in place with 1½" nails.

10. Use a ruler to find the center of the front of the drawer. Pre-drill the hole using a drill bit that is one size smaller than the drawer pull.

11. Sand the nightstand smooth and finish it with your choice of paint or stain. I left mine natural, without any sealant, to show off the color of the wood. Attach and secure the drawer pull.

Modern Bookshelf

When visualizing this piece, I wanted to create something with clean lines, yet with a surprise element to draw attention to it. Using a set of Midcentury Modern legs I found at a reclaimed building supply store as a source of inspiration helped me to do just that. Painting the legs and the accent lines on the shelf in the same color will make this piece tie in easily with any room or really stand on its own and become a topic of conversation.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• ¾" nails

• 1½" nails

• ⅜" screws

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Back and sides (11): 26" x 4½" x ½"
Top and bottom (6): 22½" x 4⅝"
Back strips (4): 22½" x 1½"
Side strips (8): 14" x 1½"
Shelf (3): 21¼" x 4½"
Shelf braces (2): 13" x 1½"

• Four 2" metal corner brace brackets

• Four table legs

Instructions

1. Take the back and side strips and place each one in the miter saw with the 1½" side standing up. Cut each end off at a 45-degree angle, making the two cuts face each other to give each board a short top edge and a long bottom edge. Set aside.

2. Lay out the five back pieces vertically to create the back of the bookshelf. Measure in 4" from each short side and make a mark. Place a back strip on the inside of each mark with the long bottom edge face down. Measure 4" toward the center from those two pieces and place the two remaining back strips. There should be four evenly spaced boards laid across, 4" from each edge and with 4" between each piece. Secure in place using glue and ¾" nails.

3. Lay out three of the side boards and four side strips as in Step 2, lining the strips up flush with one side. They should hang over the other side by ½" to create a lip. Secure in place with glue and ¾" nails. Repeat with the remaining side pieces to create the other side of the bookshelf.

4. Line up one of the side pieces with the back piece, using the overhang from the side piece to create a lip over the back piece. Secure in place with glue and 1½" nails.

5. Connect the other side of the bookshelf in the same way, and then connect the two halves to form the shape of the bookshelf.

6. Take three of the top pieces and lay them across the top of the bookshelf. Attach with glue and 1½" nails. Flip the piece over and repeat with the three bottom pieces.

7. Measure down an equal distance on each side and mark off the location of the shelf. You may wish to place it in the center, off-center to create spaces for smaller and larger books, or add more than one shelf for a variety of items. Attach the metal brackets with ⅜" screws.

8. For the shelf, lay the three shelf boards out and measure over 3" from each short end. Mark a line and lay the two brace pieces on the inside of each line. Attach with glue and ¾" nails.

9. Attach the table legs to the bottom corners of the bookshelf frame using the screws included with the bracket.

10. Insert the shelf inside the bookshelf on top of the brackets.

Bar Cart

I wanted to create a few projects that one would never imagine building out of wood, and the Bar Cart is just that. However, I still wanted to create a piece with a high-end look to it, so I painted the cart gold and white and finished it with a few coats of glossy lacquer to make it appear more modern. If you choose to attach a handle, some ideas include a bathroom towel rod, building one from wood, or using a dowel rod held in place with unique hooks.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1" nails

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Bandsaw or jigsaw

• Phillips screwdriver or drill

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Legs (8): 28" x 1½"
Front and back (2): 20" x 4" x ½"
Sides (2): 16" x 4" x ½"
Insides (10): 15" x 4"
Braces (4): 18" x 1½"

• Casters

• Handle (optional)

Instructions

1. Take two of the 28" leg pieces and lay them out in an L shape. Secure together with glue and 1" nails, noting that there is a long edge and short edge to each leg.

2. Repeat with the remaining pieces to create four legs.

3. Lay out the front, back, and side pieces to form a box and attach with glue and 1½" nails, making sure the long boards are on the outside of the two shorter sides.

4. Take five of the inside pieces and lay them out to form the inside of the tray. Measure 3" toward the center from one side and secure a brace piece in place with glue and ¾" nails. Repeat with another brace on the opposite side.

5. Repeat Step 4 with the remaining five inside pieces and two braces to create the bottom shelf of the cart.

6. Take the shelf created in Step 5 and lay it face down. Take one of the legs and stand it up in one of the corners, making sure the long edge of the leg is facing the long side of the shelf. Trace around it using a pencil and repeat for the other corners, paying careful attention to the way the edges face.

7. Use a bandsaw or jigsaw to cut out the four corners along the lines created in Step 6 and sand smooth. Test fit the legs to make sure they sit flush with the shelf.

8. Sand all of the pieces smooth, paint them, and let them dry. It’s easier to finish the pieces before assembly because of the way they’re put together.

9. Take the sides of the cart tray from Step 3 and measure down 1½" from each corner, making a mark on the inside. Secure the legs in place with glue and ¾" nails, matching up the long edges with the long sides. Repeat with the other three legs.

10. Set the inside of the tray in place with the braces face down. Carefully nail it in place along the corners, shooting in a few 1½" nails from the top.

11. Measure up 5" from the bottom of each leg and make a mark. Hold the bottom shelf in place and attach each corner, nailing into the notches with the 1½" nails.

12. To finish, screw a caster to the bottom of each leg and attach a handle to one short side of the tray part of the cart (if you choose to do so). Seal with a few coats of lacquer to make it water resistant.

Herb Garden

Simple and rustic, this Herb Garden really shows off the beautiful color and vibrant life of whatever herbs or flowers you choose to plant in it. Because my planter was to be used on the porch, I opted not to paint the piece and selected old and very weathered pallets for the legs. I really wanted to create a piece that would work well in a small space yet still hold a lot of plants. You can modify this planter with longer shelves, more shelves, or smaller pots to hold more plants.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Drill or drill press

• 3" hole saw blade

• Jigsaw (optional)

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Legs (4): 43" x 3¼" x 1½"
Shelves (3): 26" x 4½" (can be any width but at least 4½")
Braces (12): 3" x 1½" x ¾"

• Nine 3½" terra cotta pots

Instructions

1. Remove any remaining nails from the leg pieces and sand smooth. Lay one out with the wider edge facing up and set the other three aside.

2. Measure 4", 18", and 32" from one side, marking off each. Place a brace piece on each mark with the wider edge face up, on the side of the line closest to where you measured from. Attach each piece in place with glue and 1½" nails. Repeat with the other three legs.

3. Take one of the shelves and mark off the center. Measure over 5½" in each direction and make a mark. Using a drill, or a drill press with the hole saw blade, drill out the three holes to create the spaces where the pots will go, centering the drill bit over the marks. (A jigsaw may also be used if a hole saw is not available. Simply draw a 3" circle, drill a small hole to insert the jigsaw blade, and cut out.)

4. Repeat Step 3 with one more of the shelves.

5. Take one of the shelves with the holes and measure over 1" from each side. Set the shelf on the top brace of one leg, lining up the 1½" mark with the edge of the leg to create an overhang. Nail in from the top of the shelf. Repeat this process with the remaining three legs on the other sides of the shelf.

6. Repeat Step 5 to nail the other two shelves in place, keeping in mind that the shelf with no holes goes on the bottom. I chose to use pots with drainage holes in them so when I water the top plants, the water will drip down into the next ones. Using a bottom shelf with no holes will create space for saucers to sit so the water won’t drip onto the floor. If you chose pots without drainage holes, you may drill holes in all three shelves because the water won’t drip out.

7. You may also use narrow strips of wood, pieces of twine, or even thin branches to create a fence around the bottom shelf to hold the pots in place. I love the look of terra cotta so I chose to leave mine open, but another natural element would look great across the bottom.

CHAPTER THREE

STAY ORGANIZED

Hat Rack

For most of the projects in this book, wood pallets are disassembled and reused in ways that hide their original purpose. However, the Hat Rack uses a whole pallet to create a unique and useful bedroom accessory for displaying hats, scarves, belts, jewelry, or purses. Hooks may be added to the boards on the front for additional items, and using a larger pallet will add extra “shelves” to the piece.

Tools

• Hammer

• 1½"–2" nails

• Reciprocating saw, jigsaw, or circular saw

• Sandpaper

• Yardstick or 3' level for drawing a long line

Materials

• Whole pallet

• Sturdy hook for hanging

Instructions

1. Begin this project by choosing a pallet with good bones. The boards should be free of cracks and nails, and a sturdy center brace is essential for hanging.

2. Stand the pallet up with the boards running horizontally. Use the yardstick or long level to draw a line from one top corner down to the bottom center. Repeat on the other side to create a downward-facing arrow shape.

3. Using a reciprocating saw, jigsaw, or circular saw, cut along the lines on the front of the pallet. Any of those tools will work fine; choose the one that will work best with the shape and size of your pallet.

4. Remove the boards from the back of the pallet and trim the center brace where you want the top and bottom of the rack to be. Sand smooth.

5. Hammer a few additional nails into the center brace where the boards cross for added stability. Attach a sturdy hook on the back, and because this piece is heavy, be sure to mount it in a stud.

Shabby Chic Toolbox

The Shabby Chic Toolbox is one of my favorite projects. It’s super-versatile and can be used in so many ways, from storing kitchen utensils and organizing art supplies to showing off holiday décor and making a home for your favorite plants. Not only can it be finished in any color, but the handle really makes it stand out from the crowd. I used a thick branch for my project to bring some of the outdoors in. If you’re after a more modern look, a piece of copper pipe would look great with a navy blue painted box.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Jigsaw

• Two 2" screws

• Drill with drill bit that is one size narrower than your screws

• Glass or similar object 2" in diameter for tracing

• Marking pencil

Materials

• Five pallet boards at least 17" long

• Something unique for the handle, such as a thick branch, dowel rod, piece of pipe, or spindle

Instructions

1. Measure and cut two boards to a length of 17" and two to 12". The 12" boards will be placed vertically to form the ends of the toolbox.

2. On the top corners of each of the 12" boards, draw two symmetrical arcs using the glass or other object as a pattern. Cut along the lines with a jigsaw. Sand all four pieces, making sure the curves on the end pieces are smooth.

3. Lay out the four boards to form a box, making sure the long boards for the sides line up on the outside of the two ends. Apply glue where the boards meet, then nail the boards together.

4. Using a table saw, rip the last board down into three 1½"-wide strips. Cut each strip to a length of 17", then sand until smooth.

5. Attach the strips to the bottom of the toolbox using glue; the edges should be flush with the sides. Carefully nail all around the outside of the box.

6. Measure the inside distance between the two tall ends of the toolbox and cut the handle to that length. Measure an equal distance down on each end and mark where you want to place the handle. Hold the handle in place and pre-drill two holes. If you chose something such as a dowel rod or piece of pipe, use a paddle bit that is the width of the handle to create two holes to slide it into.

7. Paint the toolbox with a finish of your choosing. I painted mine with two coats of white paint and then sanded down some of the edges to create a distressed look. If your handle needs painting, do that now as well. The handle I chose for the box was a thick branch, so I used a light brown wax to highlight its character and make it smooth to the touch.

8. Once everything is dry, use the two screws to attach the handle.

Wooden Crate

One of the most versatile projects in the book, this Wooden Crate can be customized to any size to allow for a variety of uses. Set them on the floor to hold blankets or dog toys, or use them in conjunction with another project such as the Storage Bench to hold shoes or winter accessories. These instructions result in a crate that’s 16" x 12" x 8" when finished, but it can be altered by shortening or lengthening the sides. This project is great for using up some of the scraps left over from others, and I found I didn’t have to rip down very many boards after digging through my bin of leftovers.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Scraps (4): 1" x 2" x 8"
Sides (8): 12" x 1½"
Sides (8): 16" x 1½"
Bottom (5): 12" x 1½"
Bottom (2): 12" x 4½"

Instructions

1. Cut the boards to the listed sizes. Sand them smooth and paint, stain, or wax them, if you choose to finish this piece. Let dry.

2. Take one of the 1" x 2" x 8" scraps. Lay it on a short side and attach four of the 16" boards with a bit of wood glue and nails, spaced out evenly.

3. Repeat with the other end of the boards, attaching the strips to another one of the scraps.

4. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 with the remaining 16" strips.

5. Take one of the completed sides and attach four of the 12" strips. Repeat with the other completed side.

6. Attach the two halves together, gluing and nailing any remaining strips.

7. Spread a line of glue over the top edge and attach the bottom pieces with nails, alternating the various widths in an appealing pattern.

Storage Chest

Although the Storage Chest is one of the larger projects in the book, don’t be fooled into thinking it’s one of the more difficult. Perfect for a children’s room or storing away gardening supplies for winter, this chest can be customized to fit any theme or style. For example, a nautical look can be achieved by painting the chest dark blue and drilling holes in the sides for knotted rope handles. You can finish the inside by cutting a few pieces of heavy cardboard ⅛" smaller than the dimensions of each side of the chest, covering one side of the cardboard with spray mount, and wrapping each piece in fabric. Use a staple gun to secure the cardboard pieces to the inside of the chest to give it a more polished look.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• ¾" nails

• 1½" nails

• 3" nails

• ¾" screws

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Phillips screwdriver or drill

• Ruler

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Sides (20): 20" x 4½"
Bottom (5): 27" x 4"
Lid (5): 27" x 4⅛"
Braces (2): 16" x 1¼"
Accents (4): 27" x 3"
Accents (4): 20" x 3"

• Four metal gate brackets

• Two metal handles

• Two 2" metal hinges

• Casters (optional)

Instructions

1. Sand all pieces smooth.

2. Take one of the 27" accent boards and lay it out with the good side down. Place one of the side boards square with the corner of the accent piece, also with the good side facedown, and then glue and nail it in place with ¾" nails along the top and bottom of the accent board. Repeat with five more side boards, lining them up across the accent board.

3. Repeat Step 2 with the other 27" accent board and six more side boards. These will create the front and back of the chest.

4. The sides of the chest will be created in a similar fashion, using one 20" accent board and four side boards for each. However, the side boards will be centered on the accent piece, leaving 1" on each side to create a lip. Be sure that the bottom edges are flush, and then glue and nail in place. Repeat with the other side.

5. Take all four sides of the chest and repeat Steps 2 through 4, attaching another accent board to the top of each piece.

6. Now it’s time to assemble the chest. Take the front and one of the side pieces and stand them up to form a corner. The 1" overhangs created in Step 4 will act as a lip to hold the pieces together more firmly. Carefully attach the two pieces together using glue and the 3" nails along the corners and the 1½" nails along the sides.

7. Repeat Step 6 with the back and remaining side to create the other half of the chest. Line up the two halves and nail them together to create a box.

8. Take the five 27" bottom pieces and lay them across the top of the box with the long edges lining up to create the bottom of the chest. Attach by carefully gluing and nailing all around the edges using 1½" nails. Set aside.

9. Lay out the five lid boards. Measure over 6" from each short side and draw a line all the way across. Place a 16" brace piece on the inside of each line and attach with glue and ¾" nails to hold it in place. Flip the lid over and reinforce the brace boards with ¾" screws across the top.

10. If you wish to paint or stain the chest, do so now. I finished mine using Rustic Pine wax to keep a lighter color and bring out the natural tones of the wood. Set aside to dry.

11. To attach the lid, measure over five inches from each side on the lid, and the same distance on the top edge of the chest. Use the screws that come with the hinge to attach it. Please note that you may need to use smaller screws on the lid so they don’t come through the other side, depending on the size that comes with the hinge.

12. Attach the decorative gate brackets to the four front corners of the chest, and the handles to each side. You may also add casters to the four bottom corners of the chest.

Storage Bench

For the Storage Bench, I wanted to create a piece that incorporated one of the Wooden Crates. Using thick pallet boards provides extra support and an interesting visual contrast when placed next to the thin dowel rods on the sides of the bench. When finished, this piece can be used by the front door to hold hats and gloves, in a spare bedroom to hold sheets, or in a children’s room for shoes. This bench was built to hold a 16" x 12" x 8" crate but can be easily adjusted by altering the length and width of the top and bottom boards or the height of the legs.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1" nails

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Drill or drill press

• ⅜" drill bit

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Legs (4): 19" x 3½" x 1½"
Braces (4): 8" x 1¾" x 1¼"
Top and bottom (10): 24" x 3½"

• Eight 18½" x ⅜" dowel rods

Instructions

1. Take one of the brace pieces and mark off down the center of the board at 1", 3", 5", and 7". Be sure to position the board so the 1¼" edge is facing up. Drill all the way through the board at each mark using the ⅜" bit. Repeat with the other three brace pieces.

2. Center one of the 24" top pieces over one of the brace pieces in a T shape, with the top piece 1½" from the end. Glue and nail in place with 1" nails. Repeat with the other end of the top piece and another brace piece.

3. Attach two more 24" pieces to the top, one on each side of the center piece.

4. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 with the remaining two brace pieces and three 24" bottom pieces.

5. Take the finished top piece from Step 2 and position one of the legs next to the brace piece, being sure to turn it so the 3½" edge is facing out. Glue and nail in place using 1½" nails. Repeat for the other leg.

6. Attach the two legs on the other side in the same manner, forming all four legs of the bench.

7. Put a dowel rod into each hole, tapping them in with a hammer if needed to make sure they’re snug. If you want them a different color than the bench, you can paint them during this step to make it easier than when the bench is fully assembled.

8. Take the bottom part of the bench and put it in place, carefully lining up all of the dowel rods in the holes.

9. Place two of the remaining 24" pieces on the top and two on the bottom, gluing and nailing them all in place on the legs with 1½" nails.

10. Paint or stain the bench in a color of your choice.

CHAPTER FOUR

ON THE WALL

Photo Display Shelf

The Photo Display Shelf is a small project that packs a huge punch. Leaving the piece unfinished shows off the true potential of wood pallets, but painting it a solid color makes it a great accent piece for a room. For my shelf braces, I used a scrap of old barnwood I’d been holding onto for a while. It was just the right size for this piece, full of the history and texture I was looking for, and it really complements the natural look of the pallet wood.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1¼" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Back (3): 16" × 3¼"
Shelf (1): 9¾" × 3¼"

• Two 9¾" pieces (can be a 1×1 or 1×2 from the lumberyard, or an interesting scrap of old wood)

• Clip, hook, clothespin, etc., for hanging photos

Instructions

1. Lay out the three back pieces vertically and measure 3" from the top and bottom. Place the two brace pieces on the inside of those lines and glue and nail in place from the front.

2. Lay the shelf piece on top of the bottom brace and secure from the top with nails. Be sure to also add a few nails from the back.

3. Find a unique hook to hang photos. I attached one large decorative clothespin with hot glue for a simple shelf, but several mini clothespins would work well for holding multiple photos or mementos. A large binder clip would be great for holding a notepad for groceries, or a hook can be used to hang a small picture frame.

Medicine Cabinet

I originally created this Medicine Cabinet as additional storage for a small bathroom, and you’ll be surprised at how much you can stow away in it. It’s perfect for holding not only vitamins and medicine but also makeup brushes or a decorative jar of cotton balls. This piece can easily be resized to insert more shelves, and could be finished in a high-gloss white for a modern look.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• ¼" screws (16)

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Sides (2): 16" x 4½"
Sides (2): 12" x 4½"
Shelf (1): 12" x 4½"
Door (2): 12" x 1½"
Door (2): 9" x 1½"
Back (4): 12½" x 4"

• One 12" x 16" piece of lauan or thin plywood

• Handle or decorative knob

• Two 1" metal hinges

• Magnetic clasp (optional)

Instructions

1. Lay out the four sides to form a box and secure together with glue and nails, making sure the long boards are on the outside of the two shorter sides.

2. Measure down an equal distance inside the box on each long side for the shelf. I positioned mine a little higher up than center to allow room for larger jars on the bottom and smaller items on top. Attach using glue and 1½" nails, inserting them in from both sides.

3. Attach the four back boards across the back with glue and nails. Set aside.

4. Take one of the 12" pieces for the door and apply glue to one of the long faces. Lay the piece of plywood on top, lining up the long edges, and screw in place using four of the screws. Repeat with the other 12" piece, and then with the two 9" pieces for the top and bottom of the door.

5. Sand the cabinet smooth and paint it white. I left the inside of mine natural and distressed the door for a unique look. Paint a red cross on the front and let dry.

6. To finish, attach a handle or knob on the right side of the door. Attach the door to the cabinet with the hinges, measuring 3" from the top and bottom. You may also wish to add a magnetic clasp to the inside of the door to keep it shut.

Knickknack Cubby Shelf

When designing this project, I imagined a shelf that would be perfect in a rustic outdoor greenhouse, packed full of terra cotta pots, seed packets, and twine. In reality, I used this shelf in a guest bedroom to hold small trinkets but finished it in a way that would tie in with the space I created in my mind, using green chalk paint and a vintage floral wallpaper I’d picked up from an estate sale a few years ago.

Tools

• Nail gun

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Sides (2): 24" x 4½"
Sides (2): 12" x 4½"
Shelves (1): 23" x 4"
Shelves (6): 5¾" x 4"
Front (4): 12" x 1¾"

• One piece of 12½" x 24" plywood

• Spray mount

• Wallpaper

• Sawtooth hanger

Instructions

1. Lay out the four sides to form a box and secure together with glue and nails, making sure the long boards are on the outside of the two shorter sides. Be sure to note the bottom board, which is 4" deep and sits ½" shallower than the other three sides.

2. Find the center of the two short sides of the box created in Step 1 and attach the 23" shelf board using glue and nails. Be sure the center shelf board is flush with the bottom of the box.

3. On each of the two long sides and the center shelf, divide the length up into quarters and mark off where the cross shelves will go. Attach all six shelves, gluing and nailing in from the outside.

4. Lay the four front pieces across the shelves to create the cubbies, making sure that the bottom piece is positioned at the bottom. Glue and then nail across the shelves, as well as in from the sides, to hold in place.

5. If you’re going to paint the piece, do so now after sanding it smooth. Set aside to dry.

6. Take the piece of plywood for the back and spray it with spray mount. Let it dry around a minute until tacky and lay on a piece of wallpaper. Smooth out any wrinkles and press to adhere. Trim any excess paper from the edges and let dry.

7. Flip the cubby shelf over and attach the back, carefully gluing and nailing all around the exterior. Center a sawtooth hanger on the back for mounting.

Farmhouse Spice Rack

After an unsuccessful search for the perfect spice rack for my kitchen, I decided to make one of my own. I kept the design relatively simple, and I love the way the vintage metal canisters and jars full of dry goods look against the natural finish of the pallet wood. The rack can also be used for other purposes around the house, such as displaying seashells from various trips, storing jars of buttons, or holding miscellaneous screws and nails.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Ruler or square

Materials

• 10 pallet boards at least 24" long

• Sawtooth hanger

Instructions

1. Determine the size for your project. Cut six boards to the same length and set two aside. Lay out the remaining four boards and measure the distance across (measurement A). Measure the depth of two boards (measurement B). Subtract B from A and cut the remaining four boards to that length for the top, bottom, and two shelves. Lay everything out and see how it fits together, adjusting accordingly.

2. For my project, I wanted to put narrower spice jars on display, so I didn’t make the rack too deep. I ripped the top, bottom, and shelving boards down to 3" using a table saw, but if you have larger items, such as mason jars, you would want to leave them wider. Sand the boards smooth.

3. Take two of the longer boards and two of the shorter boards, and then glue and nail them together, making the rectangular front of the rack. The shorter boards should be on the inside of the longer. Be sure to line up the nail gun straight with the board you are shooting into.

4. Flip the rectangle over and put a bead of glue all the way around. Lay the four back pieces on it and nail all around the outside.

5. Flip the piece over to the front. I put two shelves in mine, but you’re free to add as many as you would like. Measure down equally on both sides and mark where they’ll go. Place one shelf in and put a nail in each side to hold it in place. Use the ruler or square to make sure it’s level, and then use it to lightly draw a line on the outside of the rack to line up the nails. Finish securing the shelf in place, and then repeat with the other shelf.

6. Once more, flip the whole piece back over. Using the ruler, connect the lines you drew in Step 5 across the back of the rack. This will give you the center of each shelf to help you to finish nailing it all together. The lines will easily sand off when you’re finished.

7. Now that the assembly is finished, paint or stain the piece however you like. I chose to leave mine natural because I really liked the characteristics of the wood, so I just lightly sanded it with a finer-grit paper and installed a sawtooth hanger on the back for hanging.

Entryway Key Rack

Inspired by old hotel-style key racks, this smaller version brings a bit of vintage charm to your home. Any type of basket can be used for the letter holder at the bottom. I picked up a simple closet storage basket from Target, cut off the wire hooks, and spray-painted it black. Not only does this work perfectly, but it fits the style of the piece as well.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Ruler

Materials

• Pallet pieces
Top and bottom (2): 15¼" x 2½"
Key slots (6): 13" x 1½"
Key slot brace (2): 14¼" x 1½"
Back (3): 22" x 4¾"

• Five hooks

• Five decorative numbers, such as scrapbooking brads

• Wire basket around 12" x 4"

Instructions

1. Sand all of the pieces smooth.

2. Lay the three back pieces next to each other. Take one of the 15¼" pieces for the top and stand it up on one of the short sides, lining it up with the top of the back pieces, leaving ½" on each side. Flip the whole thing over, and then glue and nail the top piece in place. Set aside.

3. Take the two key slot brace pieces and nail them together in the shape of an “L.”

4. Take the piece from Step 3 and attach one of the 13" key slot strips to the end, keeping the piece square with the board it’s being nailed into. Repeat for the other end.

5. Measure and mark where the four remaining 13" key slot strips go, evenly spacing them across the board from the last step. Attach with glue and nails.

6. Take the 15¼" bottom piece and lay it across the six key slot boards. Mark off the center of each to indicate where to nail.

7. Attach the bottom piece, making sure both it and the key slot boards are flush with the table.

8. Place the piece from Step 7 on the back piece from Step 2, making sure the L-shaped piece is at the top. Flip it all over. Using the ruler, trace a line across the center of the bottom piece to show where to glue, nail, and attach.

9. Do the same across the top, as well as shooting a few nails in through the top of the entire piece to hold it all together.

10. Finish the piece in the color of your choice. I used a Rustic Pine colored wax to highlight the natural tones of the wood. I spray-painted the hooks and basket black to match the number brads. Screw in the hooks, gently nail or superglue the numbers above the key slots, and attach the basket with wire, nails, or hooks, as appropriate.

CHAPTER FIVE

DECORATE YOUR SPACE

Hexagon Shelf

A set of Hexagon Shelves is a great way to display your favorite knickknacks or tie together a gallery wall. The measurements in this project create a shelf that’s about 13" across, but it can easily be adjusted to make different sizes. To figure it out, take your desired hexagon width and divide it in half to get the length of the cut sides (for example, for shelves that are 10" wide you would cut 5" long boards). It may vary slightly depending on how thick your pallets are, but that should give you a general idea. These shelves are easy enough to whip up in an afternoon, yet they look like they took hours to create.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1½" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Orbital sander

Materials

• Three pallet boards at least 20" long (this is more than needed to allow for nail heads in the boards or trimming off split edges)

• Sawtooth hanger

Instructions

1. Begin this project by setting your miter saw to a 30-degree angle. Be sure to note the size of your saw blade so you know what width boards you can cut. For example, the blade on my saw is 12", so I’m able to cut boards that are 5" when standing up vertically against the fence. If your blade is smaller, you’ll need narrower boards.

2. Cut the end of each board at a 30-degree angle, then lay them on the table so the long side is facing up.

3. Measure 6" from the outside angle of the cut side and mark it off on the edge closest to you. I also like to draw a small angle so I remember which way to cut. In this case, you will want to angle the cut toward the one you already made so they’re pointed toward each other.

4. Stand the board up vertically. Cut on the outside of the line, then set the 6" piece aside.

5. Flip the remaining portion of the board over and repeat Steps 3 and 4.

6. Once you’ve cut six pieces, it’s time to think about your desired finish. I opted to leave mine natural, so I sanded the boards really well with 100-grit sandpaper and an orbital sander. If you would like them rough, skip this step.

7. Apply glue on one of the angles and put two of the pieces together. Hold them together for about a minute, and then nail them together. Be sure to hold the nail gun straight on with the board you’re nailing into so the nail doesn’t pop through the side. Repeat this process with the remaining pieces until the hexagon is assembled.

8. If you’d like to paint or stain the shelf, now is the time to do so. I gave mine one final sanding with 220-grit sandpaper to make it nice and smooth.

9. Finally, attach a sawtooth hanger on the back, centering it on one of the sides, and your shelf is ready to hang.

Chicken Wire Message Board

Another great project for using up scraps, the Chicken Wire Message Board is a simple but unique way to display notes, memos, and small trinkets. Chicken wire comes in several patterns and sizes, so feel free to choose whichever best fits your style. Small hooks or tiny clothespins work best for hanging items, and decorative thumbtacks look great stuck directly into the wood.

Tools

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Tin snips or pliers

• Hammer

• Thumbtacks or upholstery tacks

Materials

• At least eight pallet boards, 28" x 1¼"

• 22" x 13¼" piece of lauan or thin plywood

• 22" x 13¼" piece of chicken wire

Instructions

1. Cut the boards into several pieces, varying in length. Sand the pieces until smooth.

2. Sand the edges of the lauan or other plywood. Starting at the top left corner, begin to lay out the strips in a visually appealing pattern.

3. When you get to the right side, lay a piece in place and mark off where the edge of the plywood is. Cut with a miter saw. Repeat for the rest of the rows.

4. Once you have a pattern that you’re happy with, tilt the plywood up and gently slide the boards forward onto the table, keeping the pattern intact. Spread glue all over the board and reassemble the pieces. Place something heavy on top and let dry.

5. Using the tip snips or pliers, cut a piece of chicken wire to fit the wood. Be sure to wear gloves, because the edges of the wire can be sharp.

6. If you wish to stain or seal the wood, do so now. I finished mine with a Light Brown wax, applying more to some spots to create a variety of colors. You may also spray-paint the chicken wire.

7. Attach each corner with a tack and then go all around the outside, adding as many as you wish.

8. When everything is dry, lay the chicken wire over the top. Because it usually comes in a roll and will not lie perfectly straight, be sure to place it with the bend toward the ceiling so it’s not tight against the board and there’s room for hanging things once the wire is attached.

Farmhouse Wall Clock

I have to admit, I love vintage clocks. Every time I go to an antique store or an estate sale, I look for an old alarm clock to bring home and add to my collection. Needless to say, when I’m looking for a decorative piece for literally any room in the house, I always turn to a clock. They are timeless pieces (no pun intended) that will always have a use and can be found in a variety of styles and colors. Creating your own clock is a great way to personalize a space with a functional item that will never go out of style.

Tools

• Nail gun or hammer

• 1" nails

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Table saw

• Jigsaw or bandsaw

• Sharp #2 pencil

• String

• Thumbtack (optional)

• Drill or drill press

• ⅜" drill bit

Materials

• Pallet pieces (4): 15" x 3¾"

• Two 11" x 1½" x ¾" pieces (standard 1x2 from lumberyard)

• Clock movement kit made for ¾" surfaces

Instructions

1. Lay out the four 15" boards so the edges are even. Place the clock mechanism in the center of the boards and trace around it.

2. Set the clock mechanism aside and take the two 11" pieces. Center them across the boards, placing one on the outside of each of the marks. Test fit the clock in the space, and then attach the two pieces with glue and nails.

3. Flip the piece over and use a tape measure to find the center. Drive in an extra nail just far enough to be sturdy, or push the thumbtack in place. Take a piece of string at least 12" long and tie it to the nail or thumbtack.

4. Pull the string out horizontally so it’s almost at the edge of the board and tie it to the pencil. Keeping the string pulled tight, hold the pencil up straight and draw a circle around the center marker. Remove the nail or tack and set aside.

5. Use the jigsaw or bandsaw to cut out the circle.

6. Drill a hole in the center, using the ⅜" bit, to create a place to insert the clock. Test fit the clock mechanism and sand everything smooth, making sure the edges are even.

7. Paint the clock and set it aside to dry. Making sure the braces on the back are lying horizontally, divide the front up into 12 equal sections and paint the numbers on using a stencil, rub-on decal, freehand, or however you choose.

8. Once everything is dry, insert the clock mechanism and assemble according to the directions on the package. Attach a hook to the top back brace for hanging.

Picture Frame Wall Art

Beautiful and customizable, this Picture Frame Wall Art can be created entirely from materials lying around the house. I based my design on a metal “Hello” I found at a craft store and chose three vintage wallpapers with floral designs that would highlight the gold word. Some other ideas include using patterned papers with kitchen designs and cardboard letters to spell out “Eat,” using beach scrapbook paper and a cursive metal word that says “Relax,” or using vintage pink-and-red wallpaper and wooden letters to say “Love.” Use your imagination and get creative to make a piece that matches any room in your house.

Tools

• Miter saw

• Wood glue

• Sandpaper

• Spray mount

• Table saw

• Craft blade, such as X-Acto

• Hammer

Materials

• Picture frame

• 8 to 10 pallet boards

• Variety of wallpaper or scrapbook paper

• Decoration such as a wooden or metal word

• Small finishing nails, wire, or hooks

Instructions

1. Measure the back of the picture frame where the glass would go. My dimensions were 18" by 14", so I cut nine boards that were 14" x 2", but you’ll need to adjust the measurements based on your frame. Sand the pieces smooth.

2. Spray-paint the frame and set aside to dry.

3. Spray each piece with spray mount and wait about a minute until tacky. Lay a piece of paper over each board and rub it to smooth out any wrinkles and firmly attach it. Let dry.

4. Flip each board over so the paper is facing down and cut off the excess using the craft blade.

5. Flip the boards back over and sand the paper until it looks weathered and distressed.

6. Apply a bead of glue in the track of the picture frame where the glass would go. Insert each board, paper side down, alternating the patterns. Place a heavy object on top and let dry.

7. To finish, attach the decorative piece to the front of the frame. My metal “Hello” had two holes for nails, but you can use wire or hooks as appropriate.

Tealight Candle Holders

Simple and sweet, these Tealight Candle Holders are a great way to use up the extra-thick boards left over from other projects. Not only can they be customized to match any décor, but they make great gifts for even the hardest people to buy for on your list. Use an extra-long board with several candles to decorate a Thanksgiving tablescape, or a single tealight painted gold for a high-end accent in a living room. Use your imagination to create a unique piece, but as with any candle, please do not leave it to burn unattended.

Tools

• Drill or drill press

• 1½" paddle bit

• Miter saw

• Sandpaper

Materials

• Various lengths of the thick legs from a pallet

• Tealight candles

• Paint, wallpaper scraps, wax, etc., to decorate with

Instructions

1. Begin by cutting various lengths of the pallet legs. Some ideas include pieces that are 4" long for a single tealight or 12" long to hold several to display on a dining room table. Sand them smooth.

2. Mark off on the board where you want the tealights, and use the paddle bit to drill straight down into the board about ½". Once you drill a few you’ll be able to get a feel for how deep to drill so the tealight is flush with the top of the board. When starting out, it’s easiest to drill down a bit and test the candle to see how it fits, and then drill again if needed.

3. Once all the holes are drilled, sand them inside and wipe away all of the dust.

4. To add some character, use the miter saw, for example, to cut the corners off or cut one side on an angle.

5. Finish the candle holders with stain or wax, painted accent sides, or wallpaper or scrapbook paper attached to the top with spray mount. Do not feel limited by these ideas, though—be creative!

About the Author

Samantha Hartman is a graphic designer and self-taught woodworker with a passion for using reclaimed materials and salvaged wood in her designs. As the small business owner of Infinite Abyss, she was a finalist of Etsy Open Call in 2016 and has products sold in several shops throughout the country. Originally from Pittsburgh, she currently lives and creates in Wyoming.

Also in this Series

Wood Pallet Workshop: 20 DIY Projects that Turn Forgotten Wood into Stylish Home Furnishings
by Danny Darke
Print ISBN: 978-1-5107-0527-2
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-5107-0528-9
$16.99