CONTAINER GARDENING DESIGNS & WOODWORKING PLANS-

IDEAS FOR ORGANIC GARDENING & URBAN GARDENING

VOLUME 2

BY JACK POLLARD

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Table of Contents

LEGAL NOTICE

Tools Needed

Just a Notice

Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting

1x4 and 1x2 Chop Saw Setup

Optional - Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 1: Planter Stand for 24”x11” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 2: Planter Stand for 25” x 231/2” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 3: Planter Stand for16 3/4” x 16 1/2” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Optional – Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes for Chapter 3

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 4: Planter Stand for 8 1/2”x25” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Tools Needed

Power Chop Saw

Power Drill or Cordless Drill

Ruler

Sand paper

1 black marker

Pencil

Speed square

1/8 inch drill bit

1 pound of 1 5/8 inch exterior screws

Just a Notice

The tool lists will apply to all plant stand plans; now you will find some of the sentences will have been repeated. The only change is the size of board cuts based on the planter box. When it comes to making projects with wood the basic steps to make that box are the same.

Please read all safety instructions when using power tools. Using a chop saw can be dangerous if you do not take the time to read the owner’s manual.   

Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting

You will need to use a chop saw to make these cuts at a double beveled 5 degree angle. It is not as hard as it sounds once you get a feel for it. As seen in the picture below, set your shop saw at 5 degrees to the right and lock it in place; this is the first step.

As shown in the pictures below, set your shop saw at 5 degrees beveled; this is the second step. Once done, leave your saw at these angles then make your cuts for - four of the 2” x 2” x 24” leg supports. 

The bevel lock is located on the back of most chop saws; the bevel numbers are on the side as well. Check your saw to see where the adjustments are located.

Place your 2”x2” and make the first cut; after making the first cut leave the 2”x2” leg in place and mark it with a black marker as seen in the picture below. You will need to mark all four of the leg supports like this.

All four of the little black dots will face to the inside of the 2”x2” leg; this means that this part of the leg will be on the inside of the stand as seen in the picture below. There will be more details within each planter support plan.

In my shop I have a straight rail next to my chop saw with a fence; the rail is on the left side. By having the fence and rail on it you can use a stop block; using this stop block means that all of your cuts will be the same.

Once the first cut is made slide the board down to your stop block as seen in the picture above. Do not flip or turn the board at all; if you do flip or turn the board the cut will be wrong and you will have problems putting the stand together.

1x4 and 1x2 Chop Saw Setup

Set your chop saw at 5 degrees only with no bevel as seen in the two pictures below. You will need to leave the shop saw at this setting.

As you can see in the picture below, the shop saw is set at zero bevel.

Optional - Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes

This planter box will fit the planter stand that is mentioned in chapters 1, 2 and 4 just follow the directions below. In chapter 3, there are some notes for making this side planting box, read them before starting.

You can add these two smaller planting boxes for maximum plant growth. Both side planters measure at 24 ½ inches long and are about 6 inches wide at the top. I do recommend adding planters on both sides; if you have any small children around they might be able to pull on it if there is only one side planter added. This is the only plant stand that I recommend adding both side planting boxes to in chapter 4 of this book.  

The material cuts listed below are for two of the side planter boxes.  

Wood Needed

Two 1”x6”x 8’ foot long cedar or pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x4”x8’ foot long cedar pine, this is your choice.

Board Cuts

You will need two boards that are 1”x 6” x 23” long which will be the back of the planter.

You will need two boards that are 1”x 4”x 23” long for the bottom.

You will need two boards that are 1”x 4”x 24 3/4” long to secure the planters to the stand.

You will need two boards that are 1”x 6”x 24 3/8” long for the front.

You will need four boards that are 1”x6”x 4 5/8” long for the ends.

Step 1:

Take one of each of the 1”x6”x23” and 1”x4”x23” inch long pieces. Drill three 3/8” or ½” holes in the 1”x4”x23” inch long piece as seen on the left board in the picture below.

Step 2:

Take the 1”x6”x4 5/8” and cut at a 5 degree angle; also predrill the hole for the 1 5/8” screws as shown in the picture below.

Step 3:

Now take the two end pieces and attach them to the 1”x4”x23” bottom. Make sure to flush the front side with the square cut side as seen in the picture below.

Step 4:

Take the front piece and predrill the holes; use 1 5/8” screws and attach it to the sides and bottom as seen in the two pictures below.

Step 5:

Now it’s time to attach the back piece; take the 1”x6”x23” piece and predrill three holes along bottom as seen in the picture below.

When attaching the back piece, flush and screw the ends first since this is on an angle as seen in the picture below.

Step 6:

Cut two cedar pieces to 1”x4”x 24 ¾” at the longest point or at a 5 degree angle as seen in the picture below. You can use pine if you’d like, just make sure to paint it.

Step 7:

Now attach the 1”x4”x24¾” long cedar to the plant stand on both sides as shown in the picture below. Measure and mark down six inches from the bottom of the 1”x4” that’s on top of the plant stand as seen in the picture below. Predrill holes on each end and use 1 5/8” screws to attach it.   

Step 8:

Predrill three holes along the top of the back board about one inch down. This is where you will attach the planter to the stand as seen in the picture below.

Step 9:

Now attach the planter to the side of the plant stand using three 1 5/8” screws as seen in the picture below. You will do this same step for both sides of the planter.

Chapter 1: Planter Stand for 24”x11” Planter Box

This Planter box stand will support the planting box in Chapter 1 of Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans-Ideas for organic gardening & Urban Gardening – Volume One 

Click Here To Get Your Copy of

Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans – Volume One

This plant stand is 24 inches wide at the top, 11 inches deep and 24 inches tall without the planter box on top. With the planter box on top it stands 30 inches tall.

I painted this stand white so that it shows up well in the pictures; you can paint your stand any color that you like, I would suggest using outdoor paint.

Wood Needed

Two 2”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x4”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x2”x8’ foot long cedar for the planter box bottom itself.

Board Cuts

Step 1 - You will need four boards, 2”x 2” x 24” long, which will be the leg supports.

Step 2 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x 23” long, for the widest side at the top.

Step 3 - You will need two boards, 1”x2”x 25 1/4” long, for the bottom brace.

Step 4 in Picture - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x 11 5/8” long, for the shortest side. 

Step 4 in Picture - You will need two boards, 1”x 2”x 14 1/8” long, for the bottom brace.

Step 6 - You will need one board, 1” x 4” x 9 1/2” long this will be secured to the leg support itself.

Step 8 in Picture - You will need two cedar boards, 1”x 2”x 21” long, for the extra piece on the planter box bottom.

Step 8 in Picture - You will need two cedar board, 1” x 2” x 8 1/4” long, to secure the planting box to the leg support.

Step 1:

Cut 4 leg supports 2”x2”x24” long described under Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting. Make sure to mark each piece after each board cut - this is very important.

Step 2:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut them at 23” inches at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. 22 1/2” will be the shortest point. Make sure to flush the edge of the 1”x4” along the side and top of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Be sure to place the black dot down and to the inside as seen in the picture below - this is very important.

Step 3:

You will need two 1”x2”x25 1/4” inches long at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. The 25 1/2” inch is the shortest point. Mark the 2”x2” leg six inches from the bottom and attach the predrilled 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. You will need to make two sections like this in steps 2 and 3.

Here is what one finished end should look like. Note the angle from the top to the bottom; that is a 5 degree angle.

Step 4:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut both ends at a 5 degree angle; 11 5/8” inches at the longest point; 11 1/8” will be the shortest point. Mark and cut two 1”x2”x14 1/8” inches long at the longest point and at a 5 degree angle. The 13 7/8” inches is the shortest point; once the cuts are made predrill the holes on the ends about 1 ¼” inches from the ends. 

Step 5:

Now place your two sections that were made in steps 2 and 3. Start by standing the two ends on their side as seen in the picture below. Mark and predrill the holes in the 1”x4” and the 1”x2” so that they are in the center of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Once you have one side done flip the piece over and do the same for the other side.  

Step 6:

Cut one 1”x4”x 9 1/2” for the top; this will secure the cedar planter that sits on top of the plant stand. Predrill two holes spaced evenly as seen in the picture below.

Step 7:

From the inside edge mark 9 1/2” inches; from the 9 1/2” inch mark place your 1”x4” and mark two places and predrill holes for the screws. Do this on each side and secure your 1”x4” in place with 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Step 8:

Cut two cedar 1”x2”21” inches long and predrill 3 holes for the screws. Cut two cedar 1”x2”x 8 ¼” inches long and predrill 2 holes in it; one on each end as seen in the picture below. From one side measure and mark 8 ¾” inches to one edge of the 1”x2”x8 ¼” and secure this with 1 ½ inch screws; then add the other 1”x2”x8 ¼”.

Step 9:

Take your cedar planter, turn it upside down, place the plant stand on top of it and flush the stand to the edge of the 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. 

Once you have the edges smooth secure them together with two 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Now you are ready for potting soil and plants. Remember, if using plain pine you will need to caulk and paint the stand the color of your choice for long life. If you do not put a good finish on it the life of the stand will be significantly lessened. You can even paint the cedar planter box if you wish; if left raw over time it will turn to a light gray color.

Chapter 2: Planter Stand for 25” x 231/2” Planter Box

This Planter box stand will support the planting box in Chapter 2 of Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans-Ideas for organic gardening & Urban Gardening - Volume One 

Click Here To Get Your Copy of

Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans – Volume One

This plant stand is 24 inches wide at the top, 22 1/4 inches deep and 24 inches tall without the planter box on top. With the planter box on top it stands 30 inches tall.

I painted this stand white so that it shows up well in the pictures; you can paint your stand any color that you like, I would suggest using outdoor paint.

Wood Needed

Two 2”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

Two 1”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

Two 1”x4”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x4”x8’ foot long cedar, for the planter box bottom (see step 6 first).

Board Cuts

For step 1 - You will need four boards, 2”x 2” x 24” long, which will be the leg supports.

For step 2 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x 23” long, for the widest side at the top.

For step 3 - You will need two boards, 1”x 2”x 25 1/2” long, for the bottom brace.

For steps 4 & 5 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x 22 7/8” long, for the shortest side.

For steps 4 & 5 - You will need two boards, 1”x2”x 25 3/8” long, for the bottom brace.

For step 6 - You will need two board, 1” x 4” x20 5/8” long this will be secured to the leg support itself.

For step 8 - You will need two cedar boards, 1”x 4”x 21” long, for the extra piece’s on the planter box bottom.

Step 1:

Cut 4 leg supports 2”x2”x24” long described under Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting. Make sure to mark each piece after each board cut - this is very important.

Step 2:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut them at 23” inches at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. 22 1/2” will be the shortest point. Make sure to flush the edge of the 1”x4” along the side and top of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Be sure to place the black dot down and to the inside as seen in the picture below - this is very important.

Step 3:

You will need two 1”x2”x25 1/2” inches long at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. The 25 1/4” inch is the shortest point. Mark the 2”x2” leg six inches from the bottom and attach the predrilled 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. You will need to make two sections like this in steps 2 and 3.

Here is what one finished end should look like. Note the angle from the top to the bottom; that is a 5 degree angle.

Step 4:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut both ends at a 5 degree angle; 22 7/8” inches at the longest point; 22 1/4” will be the shortest point. Mark and cut two 1”x2”x25 3/8” inches long at the longest point and at a 5 degree angle. The 25”1/8 inches is the shortest point; once the cuts are made predrill the holes on the ends about 1 ¼” inches from the ends. 

Step 5:

Now place your two sections that were made in steps 2 and 3. Start by standing the two ends on their side as seen in the picture below. Mark and predrill the holes in the 1”x4” and the 1”x2” so that they are in the center of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Once you have one side done flip the piece over and do the same for the other side.  

Step 6:

This part is optional in step 6 and 7, once the planter box is on top and full of potting soil the weight alone will hold it in place. Cut two 1”x4”x 20 5/8” for the top; this will secure the cedar planter that sits on top of the plant stand. Predrill one hole on each end of the 1”x4” as seen in the picture below.

Step 7:

Place the 1”x4”x 20 5/8” next to the 2”x2” on the inside; place your 1”x4” on the inside and mark two places and predrill holes for the screws. Do this on each side and secure your 1”x4” in place with 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Step 8:

Cut two cedar 1”x4”x21” inches long and predrill 5 holes for the screws. There will be one on each end as seen in the picture below. From one side, place and flush the 1”x4”x21 to the edge of the 1”x2” and secure this with 1 ½” inch screws. You will do this on both sides.

Step 9:

Take your cedar planter, turn it upside down, place the plant stand on top of it and flush the stand to the edge of the 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. 

Once you have the edges smooth secure them together with four 1 5/8 inch screws one on each end as seen in the picture below.

Now you are ready for potting soil and plants. Remember, if using plain pine you will need to caulk and paint the stand the color of your choice for long life. If you do not put a good finish on it the life of the stand will be significantly lessened. You can even paint the cedar planter box if you wish; if left raw over time it will turn to a light gray color.

Chapter 3: Planter Stand for 16 3/4” x 16 1/2” Planter Box

This Planter box stand will support the planting box plans in Chapter 3 of Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans-Ideas for organic gardening & Urban Gardening - Volume One 

Click Here To Get Your Copy Of

Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans – Volume One

This plant stand is 16 3/4 inches wide at the top, 16 1/2 inches deep and 24 inches tall without the planter box on top. With the planter box on top it stands 30 inches tall.

I painted this stand white so that it shows up well in the pictures; you can paint your stand any color that you like, I would suggest using outdoor paint.

Wood Needed

Two 2”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x4”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

Board Cuts

For step 1 - You will need four boards, 2”x 2” x 24” long, which will be the leg supports.

For step 2 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4” x15 3/4” long, for the shortest side at the top support.

For step 3 - You will need two boards, 1”x2”x 18 3/8” long, for the bottom brace.

For steps 4 & 5 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x17 ¼” long, for the widest side at the top support.

For steps 4 & 5 - You will need two boards, 1”x 2”x19 7/8” long, for the bottom brace.

For steps 6 & 7 - You will need one board, 1”x 4”x 15 1/8” long, to secure the planter on top.

For step 8 - You will need four cedar boards, 1”x2”x13 5/8” long, for the extra pieces on the planter box bottom.

Step 1:

Cut 4 leg supports 2”x2”x24” long described under Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting. Make sure to mark each piece after each board cut - this is very important.

Step 2:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut them at 15 ¾” inch at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. 15 1/8” will be the shortest point. Make sure to flush the edge of the 1”x4” along the side and top of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Be sure to place the black dot down and to the inside as seen in the picture below - this is very important.

Step 3:

You will need two 1”x2”x18 3/8” inch long at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. The 18 1/8” inch is the shortest point. Mark the 2”x2” leg six inches from the bottom and attach the predrilled 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. You will need to make two sections like this in steps 2 and 3.

Here is what one finished end should look like. Note the angle from the top to the bottom; that is a 5 degree angle.

Step 4:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut both ends at a 5 degree angle; 17 ¼” inch at the longest point; 16 5/8” will be the shortest point. Mark two 1”x2”x19 7/8” inch long at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. The 19 5/8” is the shortest point; once the cuts are made predrill the holes on the ends about 1 ¼” inch from the ends. 

Step 5:

Now place your two sections that were made in steps 2 and 3. Start by standing the two ends on their side as seen in the picture below. Mark and predrill the holes in the 1”x4” and the 1”x2” so that they are in the center of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Once you have one side done, flip the piece over and do the same for the other side.  

Step 6:

Cut one 1”x4”x 15 1/8” for the top; this will secure the cedar planter that sits on top of the plant stand. Predrill two holes spaced evenly as seen in the picture below. The 1x4 here is optional if you want to secure the planter on top.

Step 7:

From one edge mark 6 inches; from the 6 inch mark place your 1”x4” and mark two places and predrill holes for the screws. Do this on each side and secure your 1”x4” in place with 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Step 8:

Cut four 1”x2” 13 5/8 inches long and predrill 2 holes on each end for the screws; as seen in the picture below. From one side measure and mark 4 ¾ inches to one edge of the 1”x2”x13 5/8 and secure this with 1 ½ inch screws.

Step 9:

Take your cedar planter, turn it upside down, place the plant stand on top of it and flush the stand to the edge of the 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. 

Once you have the edges smooth secure them together with two 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Now you are ready for potting soil and plants. Remember, if using plain pine you will need to caulk and paint the stand the color of your choice for long life. If you do not put a good finish on it the life of the stand will be significantly lessened. You can even paint the cedar planter box if you wish; if left raw over time it will turn to a light gray color.

Optional – Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes for Chapter 3

To make the side planter for this plant stand there will be some changes to the length. The only change will be the bottom and back cuts plus the front cut. The steps in making this side planter will be the same just follow the directions mention in Optional - Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes

The cut list is for two double sided cedar planter boxes that are for the plant stand in chapter 3. 

Wood Needed

One 1”x6”x8’ foot long cedar

One 1”x4”x8’ foot long cedar

Board Cuts

You will need two boards that are 1”x 6” x 15 1/4” long which will be the back of the planter.

You will need two boards that are 1”x 4”x 15 1/4” long for the bottom.

You will need two boards that are 1”x 6”x 16 3/4” long for the front.

You will need four boards that are 1”x6”x 4 5/8” long for the ends.

You will need two boards that are 1”x 4”x 17 1/4” long to secure the side planters to the stand as seen in the picture below.

Chapter 4: Planter Stand for 8 1/2”x25” Planter Box

This Planter box stand will support the planting box in Chapter 4 of Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans-Ideas for organic gardening & Urban Gardening - Volume One 

Click Here To Get Your Copy of

Container Gardening Designs & Woodworking Plans – Volume One

This plant stand is 24 inches wide at the top, 7 inches deep and 24 inches tall without the planter box on top. With the planter box on top it stands 30 inches tall.

I painted this stand white so that it shows up well in the pictures; you can paint your stand any color that you like, I would suggest using outdoor paint.

This Planter box stand will support the planting box in chapter 4 of volume one; just leave off the side railing support piece that is mention there.

Wood Needed

Two 2”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x2”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

One 1”x4”x8’ foot long pine or treated pine, this is your choice.

Board Cuts

Step 1 - You will need four boards, 2”x 2” x 24” long, which will be the leg supports.

Step 2 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x 23” long, for the widest side at the top.

Step 3 - You will need two boards, 1”x2”x 25 7/8” long, for the bottom brace.

Steps 4 & 5 - You will need two boards, 1”x 4”x 7 1/2” long, for the short side at the top.

Steps 4 & 5 - You will need two boards, 1”x 2”x 10” long, for the bottom brace.

Step 6 - You will need one board, 1”x 4”x 5 3/8” long, to secure the planter on top.

Step 8 - You will need one board, 1” x 4” x 4” long, for the planter box bottom.

Step 8 - You will need one board, 1”x 2”x 21” long, for the extra piece on the planter box bottom.

Step 1:

Cut 4 leg supports 2”x2”x24” long described under Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting. Make sure to mark each piece after each board cut - this is very important.

Step 2:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut them at 23” inches at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. 22 1/2” will be the shortest point. Make sure to flush the edge of the 1”x4” along the side and top of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Be sure to place the black dot down and to the inside as seen in the picture below - this is very important.

Step 3:

You will need two 1”x2”x25 7/8” inches long at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. The 25 1/2” inch is the shortest point. Mark the 2”x2” leg six inches from the bottom and attach the predrilled 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. You will need to make two sections like this in steps 2 and 3.

Here is what one finished end should look like. Note the angle from the top to the bottom; that is a 5 degree angle.

Step 4:

You will need two of the 1”x 4” pieces shown in the picture below. Cut both ends at a 5 degree angle; 7 1/2” inches at the longest point; 7” will be the shortest point. Mark two 1”x2”x10” inches long at the longest point and cut at a 5 degree angle. The 9 3/4” inches is the shortest point; once the cuts are made predrill the holes on the ends about 1 ¼” inches from the ends. 

Step 5:

Now place your two sections that were made in steps 2 and 3. Start by standing the two ends on their side as seen in the picture below. Mark and predrill the holes in the 1”x4” and the 1”x2” so that they are in the center of the 2”x2” leg support as seen in the picture below. Once you have one side done flip the piece over and do the same for the other side.  

Step 6:

Cut one 1”x4”x 5 3/8” for the top; this will secure the cedar planter that sits on top of the plant stand. Predrill two holes spaced evenly as seen in the picture below.

Step 7:

From the inside edge mark 9 ½” inches; from the 9 ½” inch mark place your 1”x4” and mark two places and predrill holes for the screws. Do this on each side and secure your 1”x4” in place with 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Step 8:

Cut one 1”x2”21” inches long and predrill 3 holes for the screws. Cut one 1”x4”x 4” inches long and predrill 2 holes in it; one on each end as seen in the picture below. From one side measure and mark 8 ¾” inches to one edge of the 1”x4”x4” and secure this with 1 ½ inch screws.

Step 9:

Take your cedar planter, turn it upside down, place the plant stand on top of it and flush the stand to the edge of the 1”x2” as seen in the picture below. 

Once you have the edges smooth secure them together with two 1 5/8 inch screws as seen in the picture below.

Now you are ready for potting soil and plants. Remember, if using plain pine you will need to caulk and paint the stand the color of your choice for long life. If you do not put a good finish on it the life of the stand will be significantly lessened. You can even paint the cedar planter box if you wish; if left raw over time it will turn to a light gray color.

Thank You

Before you leave, I would like to say thank you for purchasing this guide.

I know there are many garden related books to buy from. So a big thanks for purchasing this book and then reading it to the end.

*If* you enjoyed what you read then I need you to help me.

So please take a moment and leave a review for this book on Amazon.

This feedback will help me to make any improvement to this book, and also helps me to make better books. If love it then please let me know

Table of Contents

LEGAL NOTICE

Tools Needed

Just a Notice

Chop Saw Setup for Double Beveled Cutting

1x4 and 1x2 Chop Saw Setup

Optional - Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 1: Planter Stand for 24”x11” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 2: Planter Stand for 25” x 231/2” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 3: Planter Stand for16 3/4” x 16 1/2” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Optional – Double Sided Cedar Planting Boxes for Chapter 3

Wood Needed

Board Cuts

Chapter 4: Planter Stand for 8 1/2”x25” Planter Box

Wood Needed

Board Cuts