The Handyman’s Book of Woodworking

FURNITURE AND CABINET-MAKING

WITH INSTRUCTIONS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

ON

CONSTRUCTING HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE, INCLUDING VARIOUS CABINET DESIGNS FOR DIFFERENT USES

EDITED BY

PAUL N. HASLUCK

Copyright © 2017 Read Books Ltd.

This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Paul Nooncree Hasluck

     Paul Nooncree Hasluck was born in April 1854, in South Australia. The third son of Lewis Hasluck, of Perth, the family moved to the UK when Hasluck was still young. He subsequently lived in Herne Bay (Kent), before moving to 120 Victoria Street, London, later in life.

     Hasluck was the secretary of the 'Institution of Sanitary Engineers' – an organisation dedicated to promoting knowledge of, and development in the field of urban sanitation. Hasluck was also the editor of several magazines and volumes over his lifetime, including Work Handbooks, and Building World. He was an eminently knowledgeable and talented engineer, and wrote many practical books. These included such titles as; Lathe-Work: A Practical Treatise on the Tools employed in the Art of Turning (1881), The Watch-Jobber's Handy Book (1887), Screw-Threads, and Methods of Producing Them (1887), and an eight volume series on The Automobile as well as a staggering eighteen volumes of Mechanics Manuals.

     In his personal life, Hasluck married in 1883, to 'Florence' – and the two enjoyed a happy marriage, though his wife unfortunately died young, in 1916. Hasluck himself died on 7th May, 1931, aged seventy-seven.

Woodworking

     Woodworking is the process of making items from wood. Along with stone, mud and animal parts, wood was one of the first materials worked by early humans. There are incredibly early examples of woodwork, evidenced in Mousterian stone tools used by Neanderthal man, which demonstrate our affinity with the wooden medium. In fact, the very development of civilisation is linked to the advancement of increasingly greater degrees of skill in working with these materials.

     Examples of Bronze Age wood-carving include tree trunks worked into coffins from northern Germany and Denmark and wooden folding-chairs. The site of Fellbach-Schmieden in Germany has provided fine examples of wooden animal statues from the Iron Age. Woodworking is depicted in many ancient Egyptian drawings, and a considerable amount of ancient Egyptian furniture (such as stools, chairs, tables, beds, chests) has been preserved in tombs. The inner coffins found in the tombs were also made of wood. The metal used by the Egyptians for woodworking tools was originally copper and eventually, after 2000 BC, bronze - as ironworking was unknown until much later. Historically, woodworkers relied upon the woods native to their region, until transportation and trade innovations made more exotic woods available to the craftsman.

     Today, often as a contemporary artistic and 'craft' medium, wood is used both in traditional and modern styles; an excellent material for delicate as well as forceful artworks. Wood is used in forms of sculpture, trade, and decoration including chip carving, wood burning, and marquetry, offering a fascination, beauty, and complexity in the grain that often shows even when the medium is painted. It is in some ways easier to shape than harder substances, but an artist or craftsman must develop specific skills to carve it properly. 'Wood carving' is really an entire genre itself, and involves cutting wood generally with a knife in one hand, or a chisel by two hands - or, with one hand on a chisel and one hand on a mallet. The phrase may also refer to the finished product, from individual sculptures to hand-worked mouldings composing part of a tracery.

     The making of sculpture in wood has been extremely widely practiced but survives much less well than the other main materials such as stone and bronze, as it is vulnerable to decay, insect damage, and fire. It therefore forms an important hidden element in the arts and crafts history of many cultures. Outdoor wood sculptures do not last long in most parts of the world, so we have little idea how the totem pole tradition developed. Many of the most important sculptures of China and Japan in particular are in wood, and the great majority of African sculptures and that of Oceania also use this medium. There are various forms of carving which can be utilised; 'chip carving' (a style of carving in which knives or chisels are used to remove small chips of the material), 'relief carving' (where figures are carved in a flat panel of wood), 'Scandinavian flat-plane' (where figures are carved in large flat planes, created primarily using a carving knife - and rarely rounded or sanded afterwards) and 'whittling' (simply carving shapes using just a knife). Each of these techniques will need slightly varying tools, but broadly speaking, a specialised 'carving knife' is essential, alongside a 'gouge' (a tool with a curved cutting edge used in a variety of forms and sizes for carving hollows, rounds and sweeping curves), a 'chisel' and a 'coping saw' (a small saw, used to cut off chunks of wood at once).

     Wood turning is another common form of woodworking, used to create wooden objects on a lathe. Woodturning differs from most other forms of woodworking in that the wood is moving while a stationary tool is used to cut and shape it. There are two distinct methods of turning wood: 'spindle turning' and 'bowl' or 'faceplate turning'. Their key difference is in the orientation of the wood grain, relative to the axis of the lathe. This variation in orientation changes the tools and techniques used. In spindle turning, the grain runs lengthways along the lathe bed, as if a log was mounted in the lathe. Grain is thus always perpendicular to the direction of rotation under the tool. In bowl turning, the grain runs at right angles to the axis, as if a plank were mounted across the chuck. When a bowl blank rotates, the angle that the grain makes with the cutting tool continually changes between the easy cuts of lengthways and downwards across the grain to two places per rotation where the tool is cutting across the grain and even upwards across it. This varying grain angle limits some of the tools that may be used and requires additional skill in order to cope with it.

     The origin of woodturning dates to around 1300 BC when the Egyptians first developed a two-person lathe. One person would turn the wood with a rope while the other used a sharp tool to cut shapes in the wood. The Romans improved the Egyptian design with the addition of a turning bow. Early bow lathes were also developed and used in Germany, France and Britain. In the Middle Ages a pedal replaced hand-operated turning, freeing both the craftsman's hands to hold the woodturning tools. The pedal was usually connected to a pole, often a straight-grained sapling. The system today is called the 'spring pole' lathe. Alternatively, a two-person lathe, called a 'great lathe', allowed a piece to turn continuously (like today's power lathes). A master would cut the wood while an apprentice turned the crank.

     As an interesting aside, the term 'bodger' stems from pole lathe turners who used to make chair legs and spindles. A bodger would typically purchase all the trees on a plot of land, set up camp on the plot, and then fell the trees and turn the wood. The spindles and legs that were produced were sold in bulk, for pence per dozen. The bodger's job was considered unfinished because he only made component parts. The term now describes a person who leaves a job unfinished, or does it badly. This could not be more different from perceptions of modern carpentry; a highly skilled trade in which work involves the construction of buildings, ships, timber bridges and concrete framework. The word 'carpenter' is the English rendering of the Old French word carpentier (later, which is derived from the Latin carpentrius; '(maker) of a carriage.' Carpenters traditionally worked with natural wood and did the rougher work such as framing, but today many other materials are also used and sometimes the finer trades of cabinet-making and furniture building are considered carpentry.

     As is evident from this brief historical and practical overview of woodwork, it is an incredibly varied and exciting genre of arts and crafts; an ancient tradition still relevant in the modern day. Woodworkers range from hobbyists, individuals operating from the home environment, to artisan professionals with specialist workshops, and eventually large-scale factory operations. We hope the reader is inspired by this book to create some woodwork of their own.

CONTENTS

—

IOffice, Library and Study Furniture

Furniture

Furniture

Furniture

VDining-Room Furniture

Room Furniture

OFFICE, LIBRARY, AND STUDY FURNITURE.

HANGING

NOT much skill is required to make the newspaper rack shown by Fig. as all the joints are plain butt joints, with the exception of the dovetailing of the brackets into the front, and even here butt joints can be used if wished. The shelf E and brackets H should be made of thicker stuff than the back and front pieces, as they have to receive screws in their edges. The attachment of the front I to the shelf F should be as strong as possible, and it is for this reason that the brackets are dovetailed into as shown in Fig. When the shelf and brackets are all fixed to the front, their edges, which butt against the back, may be planed up together. The cocked bead J is for the purpose of concealing the screws which fasten I to the shelf E. J is dowelled on after the screws are driven in, but the corresponding holes for the dowels are best bored by putting J into place and boring through I into J before the shelf is attached; care must, of course, be taken that the holes do not pierce In making this bead, the neatest result is obtained by shaping and glass-papering the two parts separately, and then gluing them together. The radius of the curved moulding K is 2 ft., and this may be made without a template by reducing it into the successive sections shown in Fig. This is done with chisel and gouge, finishing with a bull-nose plane. To mark out the centres of the dowels for fastening the curved moulding, lay on the curved edge of I ordinary pins with their heads situated where dowels are required. K being put in place, a smart knock on the top will impress the heads of the pins in both pieces. The straight mouldings may be made and attached in the same way as the curved one, and this will ensure soundness at the returns, which are worked out of the solid. In marking out the trefoils on the front, note that, on account of the radial slot running into the trefoil, the lower lobes have their centres a little higher than they would be if the three were equidistant. The trefoils are made entirely with the centre-bit.

Fig. 1684.

Fig. 1685.

Figs. 1685 and 1684.—Front and Side Elevations of Hanging Newspaper Rack.

Fig. 1686.—Dovetailing of Brackets.

Fig. 1687.—Successive Sections of Moulding.

Fig. 1688.—Newspaper Rack in Turned Wood.

Fig. 1689.—Inner Rectangle of Rack.

NEWSPAPER IN

     A general perspective view of a newspaper rack in turned woodwork is shown in Fig. the rectangles are filled in as in Fig. the filling being omitted from Fig. 1688 for the sake of clearness. It consists of a baseboard on which are fastened three rectangles The centre one of these is taller than the rest, and has a handle. The baseboard has a turned foot at each corner, secured by a screw passing through its centre. The baseboard is about 1 in. thick, and its edge is moulded all round. It may be made of polished wood, or of deal covered with plush; if of the latter, the holes are bored for the reception of the uprights before covering. The rectangles may be made of any pattern, Fig. 1688 being a suggestion. Of the middle one A is the turned wood handle, fastened on by two short pieces D is the horizontal; two side pieces; a rosette fastened on centrally to four pieces The exact length and diameter of each piece must be determined upon before any rectangle can be made. All the pieces are connected together by means of tenons, 1/4 in. in diameter, at the ends. The distance between the axes of the side pieces is, say, exactly 1 ft., the rosette is 2 in. in diameter, and the uprights E are 1 in. in diameter where the horizontals G meet them; then the length of the horizontal pieces exclusive of the tenons, will be 4 1/2 in. In the same manner, if the length of each of the pieces E from the point where they meet D to the baseboard is 8 in., the length of each of the vertical pieces G will be 3 in. When the exact length of each piece has been settled, they may all be turned, and should be neatly finished and highly polished. The lower ends of the vertical pieces should have tenons, so that they can be fastened to the baseboard. The two outer rectangles are constructed in the same manner, and are glued into the baseboard, as little glue as possible being used; otherwise the excess will ooze out, and spoil the appearance of the work. Fig. 1690 shows another design for the rectangles, or it may be taken as the design for the outer rectangles, whilst Fig. 1689 serves for the middle one.

Fig. 1690.—Outer Rectangle of Rack.

Fig. 1691.

Fig. 1692.

Fig. 1693.

Figs. 1691 to 1693.—Front Elevation, Side Elevation, and Vertical Section of Three-Division Rack.

HANGING OR

     The magazine rack illustrated by Fig. 1691 is designed to hold nine ordinary sized magazines with the title pages in front, thus enabling a person to see at a glance the magazine required. Fig. 1691 shows a front view, Fig. 1692 a side view, and Fig. 1693 a vertical section of the rack, which can be made in oak, walnut, or mahogany, and polished, or in one of the pines (pitchpine would look well) varnished. The sizes of the material required when planed up are: One piece for the back, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 5 1/4 in. by 3/4 in.; two pieces for the sides, 2 ft. 3/4 in. by 3 1/8 in. by 1 in.; three pieces for the shelves, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 3 1/8 in. by 1 in.; three pieces for the back rails, 1 ft. 3 1/2 in. by 1/2 in. by 1 in.; three pieces for the front rails, 1 ft. 5 in. by 1/2 in. by 1 in. Each length is 1 in. more than the finished size. Set out the piece for the back as shown in Fig. cut the curved parts with a bow saw, and finish with a spokeshave, afterwards working a chamfer 1/4 in. wide round a part, as shown in Fig. Next on the lower edge work the stop-chamfer mould, an enlarged detail of which is given by Fig. It is worked for 3/8 in. on both the face and lower edge. The back is connected to the sides by means of a dovetail on each end, as shown in Fig.

Fig. 1694.—Setting out Back of Rack

MAKING THE

     Next prepare the three shelves—the full length is 1 ft. 3 1/2 in.—dovetailing both ends of each for 3/4 in. Work the ovolo mould on the edges of the six rails, as shown in the sections 1693 and return the mould across the ends of the three long rails, the full length of which will be 1 ft. 4 in., while the other three will be 1 ft. 2 1/2 in. long. Next set out the two sides as shown in Figs. 1698 and the latter showing the back edge. Cut the curved parts with a bow saw, and finish with a spokeshave and wood file. Then place the dovetailed ends of the shelves in position on the back edge of the sides; mark the outline of the dovetails, sloping the shelves 1/4 in., as shown in Fig. Cut the slots with a saw and chisel, and fix the shelves temporarily, one side at a time. Apply the ends of the short rails to the sides, the backs of the rails fitting close to the front edge of the shelves. Mark round the ends of the rails on the sides, and, taking out the shelves, cut the housings as marked 1/4 in. deep, as shown in Fig. Next cut out the notch A on the front edge of the sides for the front rails, the depth being equal to the width of the square left on the top edge of the rail after the mould is stuck. Place the back on the edge of the sides, mark, and cut out for the dovetail. After cleaning up the pieces, put them together, first placing the short rails into the housings on the sides; then fix the shelves into the sides, and secure the rail to the front edge of the shelf by screwing from the back edge with 1 1/4-in. screws. Secure the back to the sides with 1 1/4-in. screws, as shown in Fig. and the front rails to the sides with 1 1/4 in. round-headed brass screws. The buttons (as shown in section by Fig. for ornamenting the sides can be turned in the lathe. Holes to receive the dowels should be bored with a centre-bit, and the buttons glued in. The rack can be hung with small brass hangers, as shown by Fig. or the shape shown by Fig. 822, p. 250, can be employed. It should be understood that Fig. 1693 is a vertical section taken on the line A B

Fig. 1695.—Stop-chamfer Mould.

Fig. 1696.—Joint of Back to Side of Rack.

Fig. 1697. Section of Rail.

Fig. 1699.

Fig. 1698.

Figs. 1698 and 1699.—Setting out Side of Rack.

Fig. 1700.—Part of Side ready for Shelf and Rail.

Fig. 1701. Section of Button.

Fig. 1702. Brass Hanger.

Fig. 1703.

Fig. 1704.

Figs. 1703 and 1704.—Sections and Back Elevation of Combination Rack.

COMBINATION FOR AND

     A vertical section of a rack to receive letters, newspapers, and keys is shown by Fig. Fig. 1704 shows the back portion, and is a section taken on M M The back consists of a frame fitted with vertical bars. The side pieces A and B and the horizontal bar C are each about 1 1/4 in. wide by 5/8 in. thick, and C is connected by a stopped dovetail halving or mortise-and-tenon joint. The lower ends of A and B are cut to the ornamental shape shown. The top rail D with curved top, is made thinner and connected to the other parts by a joint shown in Fig. which is a view from the back. Fig. 1703 is a section on L L A solid strip of wood E is attached as shown in Figs. 1705 and the latter being a horizontal section taken through the centre of this strip; A and B are cut back and have dovetail pins at their top ends, which are let into the piece Fig. 1706 also shows the section of D where it passes through The lowest member of E is cut away at each end to fit the side pieces, and the intermediate part is formed into dentils with saw and chisel. The four vertical slats or bars which fill in this frame are about 1/4 in. thick, and are attached easily by means of dovetail joints (see Figs. 1705 and Their lower ends are fastened to a cross-piece F which is screwed to A and B from the back; A and B are notched as shown in Fig. Below F is a cavetto moulding, extending between the two brackets, which are housed into Below this moulding is a strip, which carries a number of hooks for hanging keys upon, and this may be secured by screws passing through C The inclined front (half shown by Fig. consists of a nearly vertical part G let into a horizontal part H (as shown in Fig. the two forming a piece. Three pieces, as shown in Fig. and carried by form the letter rack. A sort of oblique bridle joint is shown in Figs. and as the means of uniting the letter-rack fronts to and in Fig. 1703 are seen little fillets glued in the angles in order to strengthen the joints. Six shaped slats J are dovetailed into H and pass through A little beaded strip is glued to the bottom edge of and a small moulding is attached to the top.

Fig. 1705.—Joints at Top Corner.

Fig. 1706.—Horizontal Section of Top of Rack.

Fig. 1707.—Joints in Lower Part of Rack.

Fig. 1708.—Front of Rack.

Fig. 1709.—Design Letter Rack.

Fig. 1710.—Nest or Plain Pigeonholes.

NEST OF

     A nest of pigeonholes for ordinary office use should contain at least twenty-six holes, one for each letter of the alphabet, though as that number is an inconvenient one to deal with, it is usual to have twenty-seven (as in Fig. or only twenty-four. The material may be pine, clean and free from knots; the thickness may be 3/8 in., though the case may be 1/2 in. thick if thought advisable. The depth from back to front is not important; it may be just the width of the board from which the job is to be made. As the wood will probably have an irregular edge, it must be set out from the narrowest part, and this should not be much less than 9 in. After the wood is planed smooth, with the aid of the square cut off two pieces 2 ft. 3 in. long, and two 1 ft. long. These form the top, bottom, and ends of the case, and are nailed or otherwise jointed together. The shelves are now cut to fit tightly within the ends. They are the same width as the top and bottom, and should be cut with perfectly square corners. Do not fasten them in until the partitions are ready and the grooves are cut for their reception. The joint of the shelves and the partitions is shown nearly full size by Fig. the edge of the partition is sunk in a groove cut for it in the shelf. This is quite strong enough for the purpose. The width of the grooves is just enough to allow of the partitions fitting tightly into them. To mark and cut these grooves, at equal distances from each other, mark out, either with compasses or by other convenient means, the positions of the divisions, remembering that at the ends of the shelves the spaces must be shorter by half the thickness of the partitions than the others. The reason for this is that there are no partitions at the ends, but just the actual casing. Square lines across, representing the width of the grooves, and cut these lines down to a uniform depth with a wide chisel, or, guided by a straight-edge, draw the chisel along so that it cuts into the wood. Remove the waste wood with a 3/8-in. chisel. The cuts at the sides of the grooves allow the wood between them to be removed without disturbing the surfaces of the shelves. The shelves now may be fitted in their places and the upright partitions forced in. The grooves will hold those between the shelves, while those above the top and below the bottom shelf will be held partly by the grooves and partly by a few nails through the top and bottom. It only remains to fasten thin wood on the back, and the nest of pigeonholes is complete, as far as actual construction is concerned. It is a good plan to mark each hole with a letter of the alphabet, according to the documents it is intended to hold.

Fig. 1711.—Joint of Partition and Shelf.

Fig. 1712.

Fig. 1713.

Figs. 1712 and 1713.—Pigeonholes with Ornamental Brackets.

Fig. 1714.—Nest of Ornamental Pigeonholes.

FINISHING OF

     An excellent finish, relieving the stiff, straight lines, may be easily formed by putting thin pieces of wood at the top of each hole. They are cut with a fret-saw, and fastened by small blocks of wood glued in behind them. Figs. 1712 and 1713 will give suggestions. Fig. 1714 shows a nest of pigeonholes, virtually the same as that described above, but ornamented with the bracket pieces and with top and bottom mouldings. The ends are thicker, and their front edges are ornamented by scratching with a cutting gauge or scratch beading router (described later). The top moulding is of pine. The bottom is thickened up, and the appearance of moulding given to it by three pieces of stuff, 1 in. thick and, say, 2 in. wide, being fastened on to the bottom board by means of screws driven through from below. The front piece should be the whole length of the job and the end pieces shouldered up behind it, so that they need not be mitred at the corners. If these end pieces are cut off across the grain of the wood, instead of with it, they will look better. The edges can easily be rounded off, as shown, with the plane, and finished with glasspaper. The job, when made, may be stained and polished or painted, according to fancy.

Fig. 1715.—Nest of Pigeonholes with Two Doors.

Fig. 1716.—Nest of Pigeonholes with Writing Flap.

PIGEONHOLES WITH

     Doors may be added to the nest of holes made as previously described. The hinges could be fastened on the front edges; but this would not be so neat as hingeing the doors within the ends (see pp. 300 to 302), the fronts of the doors then being flush with, or a trifle back from, the edges of the ends, top, and bottom. It is necessary to have the partitions and shelves less by the thickness of the door—say 3/4 in.—than the depth of the casing. On the left-hand door a bolt is fitted to shoot into either the top or bottom of the case, or, if preferred, two bolts, one at top and one at bottom. On the right-hand door a cupboard lock (see p. 297) with bolt shooting to the left will be fixed. The nest of pigeonholes so made will resemble Fig. Ornamentation in the way of mouldings, headings, etc., can be added as desired. For a small nest, possibly one door may be preferable to two. In a long, low nest, if one door is preferred, it should be hinged at the top or bottom rather than at the end. If hinged at the top, a stay of some kind will be advisable to keep it open when the contents are being got at, but this arrangement will be more awkward generally than if the door is hinged at the bottom. In the latter case the door remains open by its own weight. and, if not allowed to hang down, forms a convenient table on which to sort or look over any of the contents of the holes.

Fig. 1717.—Nest of Pigeonholes with Revolving Shutter.

PIGEONHOLES WITH

     The door hinged at the bottom may be used easily as a writing flap, in which case, of course, the panel and framing must be flush on the inside, and will be pleasanter if lined with cloth or leather. To prevent the flap falling further than required, a pivoted brass stay may be used, or instead a simple chain or cord fastened to the insides of the flap and ends. If the flap is to be used for writing purposes, part of the space occupied by the pigeonholes may be devoted to stationery—such as notepaper, envelopes, ink, pens, etc., and Fig. 1716 is suggestive in this connection. This illustration gives an idea as to how the article may easily have a more ornamental appearance given to it. The pigeonholes are now a sightly piece of furniture, which, if carefully made, would not be out of place in any library. It is worthy of being made in better wood than pine, which, however, will do very well for the shelves and partitions.

PIGEONHOLES WITH OR

     The construction of a nest of pigeonholes with shutter or revolving front may now be described. The doors or shutters slide, and, in order to turn corners, are flexible. They are formed of narrow strips of wood, fastened close together on a canvas or other suitable backing, and slide in grooves prepared for them. A nest of pigeonholes, smaller than has yet been described, is illustrated by Fig. It is rather taller than it is wide, and is divided into sixteen holes, four in each row. The extra height allows of the shape of each hole being rectangular, and is caused by the fact of there being two tops to the case—the outer one, and the other immediately above the pigeonholes. Between the two is a 3-in. space to hold the shutter when it is raised, as it is shown to be partly in Fig. A suitable size for the nest is 1 ft. 8 in. high, 1 ft. 4 in. wide, and 10 in. deep, outside measurements. These may be varied to suit particular purposes; but note that as the pigeonholes must be set back to allow of the shutter working in front of them, there is a risk of their not being deep enough to hold papers, which must be cleared by the shutter. The shutter slides in grooves in the sides or ends of the case, so that, in setting out these, both the thickness of the wood forming the sliding front and the width of the groove will have to be considered with regard to each other. For a small nest, ordinary 1/4-in. stuff will be thick enough for the front, although, as even the veriest tyro will know, its thickness will be considerably less than 1/4 in. when smoothed and worked down. It will hardly be too thin if 1/8 in. thick. The groove should be a trifle wider, so that the shutter moves easily and freely in it, though not loosely. From lack of tools or other reasons, it may not be convenient to make the grooves just the right width, so the shutters themselves may be adapted, as shown later, to fit in slightly narrower grooves. At present it is assumed that these are made exactly of the required width. Fig. 1718 represents the inside of the right-hand end of the case. These ends should be of 3/4-in. stuff. Along the front edge cut a rebate the width of the thickness of the shutter, and about half the thickness of the end in depth. The rebate merges into a groove between the two tops, and in order that the shutter may work freely, follows a circular line. The length of the groove may be determined by actual measurement, but it will be as well in the first place to make it excessive, and to stop up the excess after fitting the shutter. The groove should be cut as cleanly as possible, to assist the free action of the shutter, which should run as smoothly as a well-made drawer. The two ends of the casing, of course, are made to correspond.

Fig. 1718.—Side of Nest, showing Provision for Shutter.

Fig. 1719.—Shutter Strip with Rounded Edge.

Fig. 1720.—Shutter Strip with Bevelled Edge.

FLEXIBLE FOR

     The shutter itself is composed of narrow strips of wood. The case should be fitted together, if only temporarily, before the shutter is made, so as to get the exact length of the strips. Each piece must be narrow enough to pass the rounded corners without jamming; and to avoid any risk of this defect, the groove at the corners may be slightly widened. The shutter strips should not be more than 3/4 in. wide, but they may be as much narrower as desired; but the narrower they are the more work there will be—1/2 in. may be assumed as the medium. Each strip may be perfectly plain and flat, with square edges, but it is better to break the joints by rounding off each edge to the section shown in Fig. Two of these being placed close together, the actual line of the joint is hidden; a shutter formed of several pieces shaped thus presenting the appearance of a series of wide beads. The edges may be simply bevelled, as in Fig. or the pieces may be of any section desired. Thus the shutter may be made to resemble a series of small half-round beads, as in Fig. it might be made up of a number of pieces, each the size of the beadings shown, but the only advantage of this would be a slight saving in the waste space between the outer and the inner top, caused by the rounded corners having a sharper curve. Alternative designs for the strips are given by Fig. The case being together, begin to make the shutter by cutting a board of the required thickness, of any convenient width, and of such a length that it just fits within the rebates in the two ends. Square the edges, and proceed to work beads across from one edge to the other. A handy tool for this purpose is the scratch or beading router. Fig. 1723 shows this tool; the stock is formed of two pieces of hard wood, 8 in. to 1 ft. long, and 1/2 in. thick. The narrow part may be 1 in. wide, and the wider part—the shoulder or fence—is from 1 1/2 in. to 2 in. The fence must not be thicker than the board to be worked. Three or four screws hold the two parts together, and clamp in place the steel scraper, which is as thick as an ordinary scraper and 1/2 in. or so wide. The position of the scraper longitudinally of the tool is altered easily. The right hand grasps the fence, the left the other end of the stock, and the fence is pressed against the edge of the board and the scraper worked with pressure backwards and forwards until the beading is formed. The scraper should not project from the stock more than is absolutely necessary; it is shaped by filing. After the beads have all been worked, widths can be cut off easily with a fine saw without injury to the beads between which it cuts. If a fine saw is not available, leave a slight space when setting the iron between each two or three beads, so that the saw kerf, by removing this excess, will allow each piece to be fitted closely together. If preferred, the pieces may be cut before the beadings are formed, but this will probably be found more troublesome and tedious than the way suggested. Another way is to have a piece much longer, and only 3 in. or 4 in. wide; run the beads upon this for its entire length, and then cut pieces from it to just fit within the rebates.

Fig. 1721.—Three Beaded Strips of Shutter.

Fig. 1722.—Alternative Designs for Shutter Strips.

GLUING AND

     Were the shutter strips to be fastened together by gluing the edges to each other, the shutter would be rigid, and for the present purpose useless. They must, therefore, be glued on to a flexible backing of canvas, calico, or some similar suitable material. Hessian canvas used by upholsterers is admirable. Glue alone, or a mixture of glue and good strong flour paste, is a suitable adhesive. The canvas may cover the whole of the back of the shutter, though it will be better to leave the portion which fits in the groove bare, or it may be in strips from top to bottom. All that is needed is that the pieces shall be hinged to each other. If, as is very possible, some glue gets between the pieces, be careful to remove it before it has set; to do this, bend the shutter backwards at each joint. To allow of a lock being fastened to the shutter, have for its bottom strip a wider and thicker one, which need only work up and down in the rebate or straight part of the groove, and will not have to be worked round the corners; it should be plain instead of beaded. Reduce the thickness of the ends of the bottom piece sufficiently for them to fit within the grooves. It is better to have the extra thickness at the back of the door, so that the front of the piece is flush with the remainder. This, of course, is managed by removing whatever wood may be necessary from the back only. The size of the bottom piece will be determined by the kind and dimensions of the lock. After the glue is dry, try the shutter to see if it fits and runs well. The top strip should be high enough to enter the rounded groove while the bottom one is in its normal position, so that when all is finished the front will be quite closed. When it has been opened till the bottom of the lowest slip is on a level with, or a little below, the inner top, the remainder of the groove, if any, may be filled up by gluing a piece of wood in it, to act as a stop; for, of course, the shutter will never have to be pushed further than the position named. Now, should the wood of the shutter be too thick to fit easily within the grooves, just bevel it off until it is sufficiently thin. If much has to be removed, take it from the back; but if only a little, it may be taken from either back or front. Possibly a little rubbing down with glasspaper may be sufficient. Up till now the shutter hangs in the front rebates curtainwise, so that it can be lifted forwards, instead of merely sliding up and down. To make grooves of the rebates so as to enclose the sides of the shutter, glue thin slips of wood on the front edges. The shutter, being in its place before these pieces are glued on, is now securely fastened, so that it can only move up or down. To bring up the edge of the bottom flush with the ends, a similar piece must now be glued on to it. The same must be done at the top, but the piece there must be of a suitable width; and a piece of moulding may be planted on it and carried round the ends. In order to raise and lower the shutter, a couple of knobs should be fastened to the bottom piece.

Fig. 1723.—Scratch or Beading Router.

Fig. 1724.—Nest of Pigeonholes with Double Shutter.

PIGEONHOLES WITH

     A nest of pigeonholes similar to Fig. 1710 (p. 503) may have, instead of one shutter sliding up and down, two shutters, opening sideways from the centre, as illustrated by Fig. In this case no double top will be wanted, as the shutters will turn into the ends, each of which, therefore, must be made double. The rebates must be on the edges of the top and bottom, and the grooves, of course, will be in the same pieces. To prevent the doors when locked from being pushed on one side, and so allowing of access to any of the pigeonholes, and to prevent either door being drawn too far, a stop should be placed at the centre in the rebated groove. This can easily be managed by cutting a small corner out of the doors, just where they come in contact with the stop. Instead of the shutters when opened being folded entirely by the ends and top, they may simply pass through the space and in behind. In this case naturally two backs will have to be made. When the height or length of the nest is great in proportion to the depth from back to front, it will be plain that this form of construction is better than the former, and may be the only one possible. In large work, when the shutters are heavy and open sideways, it is sometimes advisable for them to run on rollers.

Fig. 1725.—Stationery Box, Open.

STATIONERY WITH

     The stationery box, case, or cabinet shown by Fig. 1725 is intended to stand on a writing-table or desk. When not in use the lids are closed, to protect the contents from dust. The inside is divided into compartments to contain different sizes of writing paper and envelopes. In the lower part there is a small drawer for pens, pencils, sealing-wax, and other requisites. A space is also provided for an inkpot, but opinions may vary as to the advisability of bringing the paper and the inkpot into close proximity. The general construction of the article may be gathered by an inspection of the end and front elevations 1726 and and section The top of the box slopes upwards from front to back at an angle of about 38° measured from the horizontal. The particular angle is determined by the proportions of the box; but there is an advantage in letting the angle of slope approach the horizontal rather than the perpendicular, as the weight of the lids then acts to better advantage in keeping them in position when the case is in use. The material used in the construction may be oak, mahogany, or other suitable wood, planed to 7/16 in., and for the inside divisions to about 1/8 in. thickness. The requirements of the user best determine the size; that given in the figures will probably be found generally useful. The principal dimensions may be: Length, 11 1/2 in.; width, 6 1/4 in.; height at back, 9 3/4 in., from which other measurements may be scaled off on the figures, observing that the dimensions of the lids, and other sloping parts, must be taken for lengths from Figs. 1725 and widths and depths from Fig. and the cross section as, in consequence of these parts being oblique to the plane of the paper in the first-named figures, the same scale is not applicable to them. The inside fittings are made to fit. The piece of wood A forming the front of the box, above the drawer and the sides B are dovetailed together as shown. The back piece 11 1/8 in. by 9 in., is let into rebates in the sides Two small pieces of wood E are glued on the upper parts of its ends; these conceal the end grain of the wood, and fill up the space that would otherwise be left in consequence of the back piece C not being the full length of the box.

Fig. 1726.

Fig. 1727.

Figs. 1726 and 1727.—Side and Front Elevations of Stationery Box.

STATIONERY

     The lids, made in one piece to fit the box, are afterwards divided down the centre with a fine-toothed saw. They are hinged to the sloping edges of the box, and furnished with lock, as shown. In the edge of that part of the left-hand lid which forms a part of the box front when closed there is a spring catch made of brass; when the lid is closed this catch hooks into a hole in the brass plate which is fixed in the centre of the bevelled edge of and so holds the lid down. The other lid being turned in and locked, all is securely covered. Fig. 1729 is an enlarged view of the edge of the left-hand door where the spring catch is fixed. The spring is let into a slight hollow cut to receive it, which, of course, must be made deeper where the free end of the spring is than where it is secured by the screw shown in the figure. The small peg shown at the back of the spring falls into a hole bored to receive it easily. This peg may, if thought fit, be dispensed with. The hook end of the spring is shaped to catch into the hole G on closing the lid. Viewed as at Fig. the hook is of triangular form, with a bevel from the longer side to the opposite corner. The lock shown in Fig. 1725 measures 1 3/4 in. by 1 1/4 in., and is let into the door. If thought desirable, the edges of the box may be rounded off, which rather improves the appearance.

Fig. 1728.—Vertical Section of Stationery Box

STATIONERY AND

     The little drawer D measures 10 3/8 in. by 4 5/8 in. by 1 1/8 in.; it is of simple construction, and the sides join the front in a rebate cut in its ends. It is secured by a brass pin, shown in dotted outline in Fig. the pin passing through a vertical hole F bored through A into the drawer front, as is commonly done with drawers in small boxes. The head of the pin which secures the drawer when closed, projecting above the bevelled edge of would prevent the left-hand door from closing, so that a cavity must be cut in the door at the place where the pin-head touches it. The divisions inside the box slip into grooves cut in the side pieces, and the cross divisions are held in place in the same manner. The division at the back goes the full depth of the box, as shown in the section the three other divisions for paper rest upon a bottom which is supported upon slips sprigged to the box ends. The distance between the divisions is 3/4 in., and a wider space, 1 7/8 in., at the front is for a pen-rest towards the left hand; the smaller space to the right (see Fig. is for an inkbottle. That the pens may be easily picked up, the left-hand space is filled up by a slightly hollowed slip L which, if not made of stuff thick enough to rest upon is supported by little blocks of wood glued to its under side.

Fig. 1729.—Spring Catch.

Fig. 1730.—Front and Sectional Elevation of Bracket Cabinet.

BRACKET FOR

     Fig. 1730 illustrates part front elevation and part sectional elevation, and Fig. 1731 shows transverse section on C D of a stationery cabinet to hang upon a wall by means of brass eye-plates E The total height of the cabinet is 1 ft. 9 3/4 in., the extreme width 1 ft. 4 7/8 in., and the depth from front to back 1 ft. 1/8 in., the last measurement including the projecting knobs of the horizontal drawers. Its carcase consists of two curved sides joined together by the shelves immediately above and below the small horizontal drawers, and a frame at the back. The shelves and the sides may be screwed together, and the heads of the screws concealed by the small cocked bead and fillet H which is planted on the front edges of the shelves and returned along the sides. The frame at the back is formed with two stiles and three rails whose sections are seen in Fig. The middle rail G may be tenoned on, but to avoid unsightliness a halving dovetail joint may be used for the other two at each of the corners, the dovetail being formed on the stile. Along the edges of the stiles, tongues are made which fit into grooves at the back edges of the side pieces. These grooves must be stopped towards the bottom, because the frame does not extend completely along the side pieces, as may be seen in the lower part of Fig. K shows three vertical partitions, also represented in the isometric projection These are housed into the sides, and serve to separate three vertical drawers (which are shown in the same figures, and which may also be housed into the shelf below them).

Fig. 1731.—Cross and Vertical Section of Bracket Cabinet.

Fig. 1732.—Vertical Drawers of Bracket Cabinet.

BRACKET

     In Fig. 1732 the middle drawer is raised from its lowest position, and the front one is removed entirely in order to show the thin beaded slips which are fixed on the front of each partition and on the sides to prevent the drawers rubbing on an exposed part as they are moved in or out. These drawers have each a shallow front which is sufficient to prevent their contents from falling out when the drawer is lifted up, but is not deep enough to impede their removal when required. The lifting is effected by means of small knobs, shown in Figs. 1730 and but omitted from Fig. The largest of these drawers will accommodate foolscap paper and a blotting-pad, the middle one notepaper and envelopes, this drawer being divided by a partition shown by vertical dotted lines towards the right hand of Fig. The smallest drawer, in front also divided by a partition, will hold postcards and foolscap envelopes, and in the case of each drawer a sufficient amount of free room is left at the top to facilitate removal of contents.

STATIONERY AND

     The two brackets M M have the same contour as the lower part of each side, and they are housed into the lower shelf, and further secured by screws which come through from the upper part of the shelf to which they are attached. These brackets are cut away at the back to allow the transverse piece N to take its position. This piece is housed into the sides and screwed to the back edges of the brackets, which are thus fixed more firmly. The three perforated quatrefoils in N may be made entirely by using brace- and centre-bits. A small moulding is shown along the bottom edge of Standing on the shelf in front of the vertical drawers is a pen-tray, which is, of course, removable. Views of this pen-tray are given in Figs. and In Fig. 1733 is seen the method of fitting in the small curved pieces which retain the inkpots in place. The ends of the part upon which the handle is formed should be housed into the small pieces just mentioned, and screws entering from below the pen-tray will firmly fix the handle piece. Fig. 1734 is a half plan of the pen-tray.

Fig. 1733.—Part of Pen-tray.

BOOK

     Books which are frequently in use are best accommodated in book racks, and a useful design with simple cut-through work is shown in Fig. Fretworkers could combine the side and back as shown by Figs. 1736 and while Fig. 1738 gives a design suitable for carving. Fig. 1739 would make a suitable back if, instead of removing the wood round the centre leaf with a saw, the ground were removed to a depth of 1/8 in. by a carving tool and afterwards stippled with a matting tool. The racks could be made up in whitewood, satin-walnut, or mahogany, and the dimensions given in Figs. and 1739 can readily be altered to suit special requirements. The base may be prepared from stuff 9 in. wide that will clean up 5/8 in. thick, a suitable moulding being worked round the edges. The end pieces are haunched and tenoned to the base board (see Fig. but are sometimes hinged to the base, when of course the back board is omitted. After the pieces have been temporarily put together, the fretwork or carving should be done. Fig. 1740 shows a rack with cut-through work and sloping shelf, the ends being somewhat unusual. This is known as a seat rack. Fig. 1741 gives the principal dimensions. The shelf is planed from stuff 5/8 in. thick, cleaning up to 9/16 in. thick, and is half-dovetailed to the ends. The back board is rebated to the ends and screwed to the back edge of the shelf. If the book rack is much longer than 1 ft. 10 in., a support in the centre will be required. When soft wood is used, the racks can be given a priming coat of glue and whiting, which is rubbed down. Then, when it has set hard, apply two coats of enamel paint. For hard wood, staining and polishing will be the best finish.

Fig. 1734.—Half-plan of Pen-tray.

Fig. 1735.—Book Rack.

Fig. 1736.—Fretwork Book Rack Side.

SLIDING

     Fig. 1742 shows a sliding book rack or book slide which may be made in any of the ordinary hard woods. The different pieces should be cut out a little larger than finally required, and then planed down to the dimensions shown in Figs. 1743 and The base is of framework, the three cross rails and C being carefully stub-tenoned into the stiles and glued. After the glue has set, the framework should be cleaned off flush on each side. The pieces D and E and should fit just tight between the stiles, the best result being obtained by shooting the ends of the pieces; the outer edge should be rounded as shown. The sliding board H and the slides F and G should next be prepared, the sliding board including at first the piece shown at Care must be taken to plane the sides and the sliding board at the same angle, and this may be done conveniently by placing a feather-edge strip of wood on a shooting block and shooting the edges of the sliding board and slides. While shooting, the face side of the sliding board will be upwards, but the face side of the slides must be downwards. The sliding board and slides should next be shot to lengths and placed in position on the base framing. Next each slide should be attached to the framing by three or four screws inserted from the under side of the stiles of the base. The sliding board may then be slipped out, and the portion K separated from it by a fine saw. This piece and E should be glued together and to the framing, D being glued to the under side of the sliding board. The ends can next be prepared. The quatrefoiling should be bored with a brace and bit, and the curves can be worked by means of bow-sawing, paring, and filing. The ends should be hinged by narrow brass butts let in flush with the surfaces of the end and sliding board. To prevent the sliding board being pulled right out, a small round-headed screw can be inserted from the under side near the inner end, in which case it will be necessary to cut a small groove in the rail to allow the screw head to pass; this head will stop against the rail A It is much simpler to make a rack with a solid base instead of framing, but the working is not so satisfactory, for if the base warps or becomes slightly concave on the top, the slides bind against the sliding board; or, on the other hand, if it becomes concave on the lower side, the slides recede from the sliding board, and thus become loose.

Fig. 1737.—Back of Fretwork Book Rack.

Fig. 1738.—Carved Side of Book Rack.

Fig. 1739.—Back of Fretwork Book Rack.

Fig. 1740.—Seat Rack for Books.

Fig. 1741.—Fretwork Side of Seat Rack.

Fig. 1742.—Sliding Book Rack.

Fig. 1743.—Side Elevation of Sliding Rack.

Fig. 1744.—End Elevation of Sliding Rack.

SLIDING WITH

     The book slide here described may be of oak, walnut, or mahogany, but the timber should be thoroughly dry. Fig. 1746 is a side elevation, and gives a fretwork design for the end, but this may be plain or carved as desired. Fig. 1747 shows rather more than half of the stand in section on the left-hand side, and a part side elevation of the other end on the right-hand side of the figure. Fig. 1748 is a cross section of the stand with the slides removed. To make the stand, prepare a piece of stuff 1 ft. 2 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in. for the bottom, plane it, and mould the edges, or bevel them. Next prepare two pieces A 1 ft. 1 1/4 in. by 1 in. by 1/2 in., and groove them as shown. Then get out a piece A 5 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., and tenon it in the centre between the two long pieces. Fix it to the bottom, and prepare two pieces for the ends, each of which should be made by gluing together two pieces of 5/16-in. stuff, with the grain of one across that of the other to prevent warping. When dry, the pattern shown in Fig. 1746 may be marked out and cut with a frame- or pad-saw. Clean up and work a couple of beads on the edges to break the joint where the two pieces have been glued (see Fig. Two pieces, 6 7/8 in. by 3 7/8 in. by 3/8 in., must now be prepared for the slides. These are tongued and fitted into the grooves at each end, and a piece of stuff B is glued across the outer end of each one to make the thickness 1/2 in. The ends are fixed to the slides with a pair of 2 1/2-in. by 5/8-in. brass butt hinges, as shown in Fig. Before putting together, the pieces should be polished. After the polish is hard, the slide may be put together, the piece C being fixed to the bottom before the slide is added. D is slipped underneath and secured with a couple of fine screws to the slide after it is in position; this prevents the slides being drawn out too far. A piece of green baize or cloth glued underneath the bottom completes the slide.

Fig. 1745.—Framed Base of Sliding Rack.

Fig. 1746.

Fig. 1747.

Figs. 1746 and 1747.—End and Side Elevations of Sliding Rack with Fretwork Ends.

Fig. 1748.—Cross Section of Sliding Rack.

Fig. 1749.—Sectional Elevation of Table Reading Stand.

Fig. 1750.—Half-plan of Stand Base.

TABLE OR

     The small reading stand or book rest illustrated in Fig. 1749 will be found convenient for supporting a book or newspaper when reading at a table. Any of the hard woods is suitable for use in its construction. The bottom of the stand (see Fig. is a heavy-turned piece with a lead-filled recess; the pillar mortise hole is cut first, and must be quite square and true, as upon the fit of the pillar depends the stability of the stand. The upright pillar P is of square section, being first cut and planed down to 1 in. square, the ornament being then set out and chiselled. It should now be driven into the bottom stand, using a little hot thin glue, and the wedge inserted as shown in Fig. The book rest is made from stuff 1/4 in-thick, shaped at the ends as illustrated. Pieces, 2 in. by 1/4 in., as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. are glued and screwed on the back, to prevent the top piece twisting. Fix these battens before cutting the ends to shape, so that the top board and end batten may be cut at the same operation. Along the near edge a moulding, 1 1/4 in. by 1/4 in. is fixed, to prevent the book or paper slipping off. To fix the rest on the pillar head, cut a mortise hole in the centre 2-in. piece P exactly to fit the pillar head; glue them together, and, when dry, fit the brass plates B P It will be seen from Fig. 1752 that the head of the pillar is reduced to 7/8 in. thick to allow these brass strengthening plates to be let in with the outline of the lower part of the pillar. The plates 1753 gives three views of one) are made from 2-in. by 3/32-in. brass. The corners are turned by heating the brass to dull red, slowly cooling it, and, when cold, putting it in a vice and bending it over with a pair of tongs or pliers. A sharp corner is not essential. The screws must well fit the holes in the plates, and, when fixed, there will be no fear of the book rest getting loose. The stand should now be cleaned off and polished, or, if desired, it can be left in the natural colour, giving it a rub over with wax to prevent the dust adhering; a piece of thick cloth or baize should be glued to the under side of the turned bottom, the edges being trimmed off when dry.

Fig. 1751.—Book Rest.

Fig. 1752.—Book Rest fixed on Pillar.

Fig. 1753.—Book Rest Fixing Plate.

ADJUSTABLE OR

     The book rest illustrated in section by Fig. 1754 looks well if made in walnut or mahogany, which should be well seasoned and free from knots and shakes. It has an adjustable joint, which allows the book board to be placed at any angle. The following pieces of wood will be required for making the stand: One piece 9 1/2 in. in diameter by 2 in. thick for the base; one for the pillar 10 1/2 in. long by 2 1/2 in. square; one for the book board 1 ft. 3 in. long by 10 in. wide by 5/8 in. thick; one for the ledge board 1 ft. 3 in. long by 2 in. wide by 5/8 in. thick; one strengthening piece for the back of the book board 10 in. long by 2 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick; and one for the hinge 6 in. long by 3 1/2 in. wide by 5/8 in. thick. The adjusting screw should be made from a piece of boxwood 5 in. long by 2 in. wide by 5/8 in. thick. First make the base of the stand. Fix the necessary piece of wood on the screw chuck and strip the under side, leaving it slightly hollow towards the centre, which will make it stand steady. Turn a recess in the under side as at A which can be filled with lead to make the stand solid. Reverse the base on the screw chuck and turn the upper side. B gives a section of the base. For boring the hole for the pillar tenon, use a centre-bit as illustrated by Fig. which shows that, instead of the ordinary cutting point, the bit has a plug point which guides it into the small hole bored in the upper side of the base. If a bit as illustrated is not obtainable, use the ordinary centre-bit, plugging the small hole made by the screw chuck, and then nicking the centre with the corner of the turning chisel. A hole for the point of the bit should first be bored through the plug with a small shell-bit or a bradawl, to prevent the point of the centre-bit running off the centre.

Fig. 1754.—Adjustable Reading Stand.

Fig. 1755.—Plug-pointed Centre-bit.

PILLAR OF

     The pillar is shown with a plain turned tenon, but, if preferred, the base and pillar could be tapped and threaded respectively, so that they could be taken apart for packing. To proceed with the pillar, set the marking gauge to half its thickness, and mark the centre on both ends for turning. The slot in which the hinge-piece G 1754 and works should be sawn and the hole for the thumbscrew bored and tapped before turning the pillar. The slot is 5/8 in. wide, and is cut 2 in. deep (from the top) in front and 1 1/2 in. at the back. Before sawing the slot, it is best to bore the hole and tap it to receive the thumbscrew. The hole is at right angles to the slot, 1 1/4 in. from the top, and is bored halfway through with a 5/8-in. centre-bit, the other half being bored to tapping size (1/2 in.) for a 5/8-in. wood screwing tap, which should be run through from the wide end of the hole. Then fix the pillar in the lathe with the top end towards the poppet head, and turn it to the pattern shown at c 1754 and The thumbscrew can next be fixed. The pin for the screw should be turned 1/4 in. longer than the finished size, and the point chamfered with the gouge to start the thread. After cutting the screw, refix it in the lathe and turn the head as shown by D 1754 and and cut off the screw to the required length. The hinge-piece should fit tightly in the slot so that the joint works stiffly. It should be just deep enough to let the strengthening piece, into which it is mortised, swing clear of the head of the pillar. The hole in the centre should be large enough to receive the thumbscrew. The strengthening piece is shown by Fig. 1758 with the mortise cut for the hinge-piece, and the holes bored for the screws. The book board is shown in section by E A ledge board F is fastened to the lower edge of the book board by means of four screws, one 1 1/2 in. from each end, and the other two 4 in. apart. The screw holes in the strengthening piece and the ledge board should be countersunk to receive the small turned buttons.

Fig. 1756.—Book Rest Pillar.

Fig. 1757.—Hinge Piece.

Fig. 1758.—Strengthening Piece for Book Rest.

Fig. 1759.

Fig. 1760.

Figs. 1759 and 1760.—Elevations of American Typewriter Table.

Fig. 1761.

Fig. 1761.—Plan of Table with and without Top.

PUTTING

     The stand can now be fixed together. First fix the parts with screws, and then take apart again and apply glue to the hinge piece, strengthening piece, and ledge board, and secure with the screws. The pillar should be glued to the base of the stand. The buttons for covering the screw holes, fourteen of which will be required, can be made from any small pieces of wood to the shape shown in Fig. After the buttons are fixed, the stand should be sand-papered and polished. If necessary, a piece of dark-coloured baize can be glued to the under side of the base, to prevent it scratching the table top.

AMERICAN

     There are advantages in having a special table or desk for a typewriter, which may weigh from 20 lb. to 35 lb., and which therefore is not very portable. Moreover, ordinary tables and writing-desks are too high for use as typewriter stands, if the operator is seated on a chair of the ordinary height. A suitable table or desk is shown by Figs. 1759 to Its height is 2 ft. 4 in., which is about sufficient to allow the fore-arm of the operator, when seated on an ordinary chair, to be level with the keyboard. The other dimensions are, to a great extent, a matter of convenience, but the top may measure 2 ft. 9 in. long by 1 ft. 5 in. wide, and the body of the desk 2 ft. 6 in. long by 1 ft. 3 in. wide. Oak, walnut, and mahogany are equally suitable. The side legs are hinged as shown in Figs. 1759 and so that they may be folded together under the top of the desk, thus enabling the desk to be packed into a comparatively small space. It will be seen from the front elevation that the leg C is hinged to the top of the desk, whereas the leg D is hinged at a distance from the top equal to the thickness of so that when folded it lies horizontally underneath the leg the dotted lines in Fig. 1760 indicate the way the legs fold together. Fig. 1761 is a plan of the desk, A showing the top in position, and B showing the runners for the drawers, the top being removed. The drawers will be found very convenient for keeping typewriting paper and the various accessories of the typewriter—such as brush, indiarubber, oil-can, etc. The addition of mouldings, turned work, or carving would add to the appearance.

Fig. 1762.

Fig. 1763.

Figs. 1762 and 1763.—Front and Side Elevations of Wooden Copying Press.

WOODEN

     Copying presses are usually of iron and steel, but the press about to be described is wholly of wood, the screw being a wooden bench screw. The press is shown in front elevation by Fig. and in end elevation by Fig. It is made of pine, as free from knots as possible, though a harder wood would be more suitable. Wood, 1 in. thick, planed down to a trifle over 3/4 in., does very well. Beech would answer well; while a really handsome press might be made by using mahogany or walnut, the cost of which is not great. It will be seen that the only pretension to ornamental finish is in the rounded tops of the standards, the remainder being quite plain. There will be no difficulty in introducing suitable ornament if the press is required for study use. For example, a moulding may be planted on the edges all round the bottom, and a small moulding may be worked on others. Chamfered edges would also be effective and not difficult. The length is 1 ft. 2 1/2 in., and the width 9 in., which allows of the ordinary quarto copying book being used. The bottom piece or bed of the press, is 1 ft. 2 1/2 in. long by 9 in. wide. On the under side are screwed two ledges one at each end, serving to give rigidity to the bottom. In the event of the press being screwed to the top of a dwarf piece of furniture, perhaps the ledges may be dispensed with. The two standards C are 1 ft. long by 3 in. wide, fitted to the bottom with a plain single dovetail joint. The top crosspiece D is 4 in. wide, the same length as the bed, and is 2 1/2 in. from the top of the standards through each of which a couple of mortises are cut for corresponding stout tenons in Through this a hole is cut to allow the screw to pass freely, and on the under side is fastened the threaded block in which the screw works. If the block were placed above the thrust of the screw would force it off; naturally, the tendency of the screw, when using the press for copying, is to force the block E upwards. The cover board F is exactly the same size as the bed, which it resembles in every respect, except that at each end spaces are cut away to allow of the standards fitting loosely into them; and only one piece instead of two, is fixed across. Now these parts and the screw could be fitted up, and the press would be effective as far as copying is concerned; but there is the objection that the loose board F would not rise with the motion of the screw, and so would have to be lifted each time the book was put in the press. The end of the screw generally is tapered beyond the thread, and should be sawn off, leaving the bottom end of the screw perfectly flat. Get a piece of brass or zinc plate, about 1/16 in. thick, and screw it to the under side of the cross piece G about the centre; have this metal large enough to allow of it being properly fastened with two or three screws, and to have a hole about 3/16 in. bored through it. The metal might be dispensed with altogether perhaps if the piece G is of some hard wood. This hole is bored through both metal plate and crosspiece and is big enough to allow a large screw nail to revolve freely within it. This screw is run through the hole and driven into the bottom of the wood screw, so that the metal turns round easily on the screw nail as an axis. Fig. 1764 shows in section the metal plate at the bottom, the wooden piece G above, with the nail passing through them into the screw. The spaces round the nail and between the bottom of the screw and G are slightly exaggerated for the sake of clearness. In order that G may be screwed down closely to the piece the latter is slightly scooped out to receive the metal plate and screw head.

Fig. 1764.—Fixing Wooden Screw to Copying Press Cover Board.

PUTTING

     The parts are now ready for fixing together, and, when done, the press is complete. Screw the two pieces B to if this has not been done when cutting the sockets for the dovetails at the end of Pass the wooden screw through D and then through Fasten D and E together, taking care that the wooden screw does not jam in the hole through in which it should revolve freely. Then attach G to the end of the wooden screw. Fix one of the standards C to the bottom, when F may be placed in position. The tenons at the end of corresponding with the mortises in the piece already fitted, may then be inserted, and finally the remaining standard C be fastened. Glue should be used at the mortise and tenon and dovetail joints, but it will be better to screw the other parts together. It now only remains to screw G to and the press is complete. The handle by which the screw is turned is the ordinary one supplied with it for bench purposes. Any tough stick would, however, do as well; and instead of leaving it loose, as it generally is in bench screws, it is well to fasten it in by a couple of brads—one on each side—so as to keep the handle immovable longitudinally. An iron handle may better suit the purpose.

Fig. 1765.—Copying Press and Stand.

LINEN

     Wooden linen presses are a convenient means of keeping such things as tablecloths, etc., nicely pressed. They very much resemble in construction the copying press just described. The linen press, however, is larger, and its handle, instead of being at the top, is placed between the parts D and F In the copying press this would have been awkward owing to the small space between the standards. Either position will suit either purpose, though undoubtedly the better position for a copying press is the one illustrated. It will be perceived that such a press may be turned to a variety of uses. For example, it will be found handy in laying small veneers with a caul, and in mounting and pressing photographic prints, etc.

COPYING WITH AND

     Fig. 1765 gives a general view of a drawer and cupboard forming the stand for the usual kind of iron and steel copying press. Fig. 1766 is a front elevation, Fig. 1767 a cross section, and Fig. 1768 shows the frame-work. Assuming the parts to be planed to dimensions, the leading points in the construction are as follow: From Fig. 1768 it will be seen that there are four posts or legs, and to these the lower rails are stub-mortised and tenoned, the top rails being dovetailed into the legs. The front of the framing round the door and drawer is beaded (see Figs. 1766 and This should be specially noted when making the joints, because the front shoulders require to be made longer than the back ones. The sides and back may be formed of a single panel—that is, boards glued up to form the requisite widths—and then these can be secured between beads fixed inside and out, as illustrated in Fig. The bottom rails and those under the drawer are rebated, so as to receive the boards forming the bottoms. The drawer is of the ordinary dovetail construction, and the door is haunched and mortised and tenoned, the panel fitting into plough grooves. In Fig. 1765 is shown a shelf, which is supported on bearers screwed to each side of the frame. If the top is formed of two pieces, the joint should be ploughed, tongued, and glued, and secured by screwing up through the top rails. The leaves are hinged to the top with back flap hinges, and the brackets are hinged to the legs, Fig. 1770 illustrating a bracket supporting one of the flaps.

Fig. 1766.—Front Elevation of Copying Press Stand.

Fig. 1767.—Cross Section of Copying Press Stand.

Fig. 1768.—Framework of Copying Press Stand.

CHAIR

     The chair steps illustrated by Fig. 1771 have many domestic uses, and would be handy in a small library. Suitable woods would be oak, mahogany, walnut, teak, or any other hard wood. Figs. 1772 and 1773 are front and side elevations of the chair, and Fig. 1774 is a side elevation as extended for use as steps. The leading points in the construction are as follow: The pieces forming the hind legs and the back should be cut to the shape shown in Fig. and the lower rail of the top and four vertical rails should be mortised and tenoned together. Then the front rail B and the side rail A are mortised and tenoned into the back leg and sloping rail L The special form of joint at C 1773 and is shown in detail at Fig. and the small gusset piece C should be dowelled and glued to both the sloping rail and the back leg. Then the board forming the top step when the chair is open should be dovetailed to the legs and gusset piece as at Fig. The steps are housed into the sides and front legs, as shown at E and F A short piece of rail G 1773 and should be haunched and tenoned into the rail H and the other end dovetailed into the legs, as at The upper and lower rails of the back are mortised and tenoned into the sides, and the vertical rails at the back fit into mortises made in the rails. The seat is formed of two pieces, whose appearance will be greatly improved by moulding the edges. The two parts will require hingeing together, a pair of 2 1/2 in. brass butt hinges, let in flush, being suitable for this purpose. The seat should be fastened with brass screws driven down from the top or through the rails into the seat. Of course, additional security will be gained by gluing the joints together.

Fig. 1769.—Method of Fixing Panel.

Fig. 1770. Bracket supporting Press Stand Flap.

Fig. 1771.—Chair Steps, Open.

Fig. 1772.

Fig. 1773.

Figs. 1772 and 1773.—Elevations of Chair Steps used as Chair.

Fig. 1774.

Fig. 1774.—Elevation of Chair Steps used as Steps.

Fig. 1775.—Special Dovetail Joint.

CABINET

     Fig. 1777 gives a perspective view of the washstand closed, showing a sloping top, which may be used as a writing flap. Fig. 1778 is a sketch of the washstand open, showing cupboard, with door removed, tap, mirror, and room for all the necessary accessories to a washstand. Fig. 1779 shows the stand in section, A being the upright division, B the projection to which to fasten the plinth, C the ledge to which the sloping top is hinged, D the space for the water tank, and E the back. Fig. 1780 shows how to cut the top, F being the hole for the circular washing basin. The first parts required are two ends 3 ft. 11 in. long, 1 ft. 10 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; a bottom and shelf 2 ft. 2 in. long, 1 ft. 9 1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; and a top 2 ft. 4 in. long, 1 ft. 10 1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. The ends must be shaped as in Fig. 1779 to the dimensions there shown, and the whole nailed together as shown. The top must be cut to fit to the outside of the ends, and stand out 1 in. to cover the top of the pilasters and the door, as illustrated in Fig. The shelf and the bottom must stand in 1/2 in. at the back so as to allow the back to fit in flush with the ends. The upright division A and the back should now be put in, and the pilasters, which are 2 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, nailed on. Then fasten a piece of wood 2 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. thick to the under side of the bottom, with the front edge flush with the front of the pilasters B To this the plinth is secured. The plinth should be 4 in. deep, mitred round, and secured by glue and nails. Mitre the moulding along the front edge of the top, and continue it round the ends.

Fig. 1776.—Joints in Chair Steps.

Fig. 1777.—Cabinet Washstand Closed.

Fig. 1778.—Cabinet Washstand Open.

Fig. 1779.—Section of Cabinet Washstand.

Fig. 1780.—Plan of Cabinet Washstand.

SLOPING OF

     To make the sloping top, take a piece of wood 2 ft. 4 in. long, 1 1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick, bevel it as shown at C and nail it down to the ends. Fit a piece 2 ft. 6 in. long on to the slope of the ends, allowing it to extend over each end 1 in. Lay this in its position, and fit a front piece, 1 in. thick, on to the front of the ends, and bevel it on its top edge to fit against the top. As can be seen from Fig. this piece will be fastened to the top and will open with it. The top should extend over this front 1 in. Mould the front and ends of the top and hinge it to the piece marked C Take a piece of moulding of the same section as that worked round the top, fit it to the top, and nail it square across the ends. Fasten a piece of silvered plate, 1 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 1 in., to the under side of the top with strips of rebated moulding. The flat top over the water tank is not hinged. It is 1 1/4 in. thick, and is rebated on the under side so that the projecting portion will fit between the ends, division, and back, and prevent it from being knocked off. To make the door—which should now be put together—it will be necessary to have two stiles 2 ft. 3 in. long, and two rails 1 ft. 8 in. long, all 2 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. thick. These must be mortised and tenoned together, and grooved on the inside edges to receive a panel 3/8 in. thick. A moulding may or may not be mitred round the panel, this being left to the discretion of the maker. The thickness of the hinges may be sunk into the door. A knob or handle, with a turn-buckle to turn behind the pilaster, will be the only fitting required. The tank should be 2 ft. 2 in. by 1 ft. 4 in. by 5 1/2 in., and should have a tap screwed in about 1 in. from the bottom. Bore the hole for the tap through the division, and put the tank in the recess. Screw the tap into position, put the circular washing basin in the hole, and the washstand is complete.

Fig. 1781.

Fig. 1782.

Figs. 1781 and 1782.—Elevations of Pillar Bookcase.

Fig. 1783.—Foot of Pillar Bookcase

Fig. 1784.—Base of Pillar Bookcase.

PILLAR

     The tall, narrow form of the pillar bookcase shown by Figs. 1781 and 1782 renders a comparatively heavy base desirable; the diagonal pieces which form its feet should therefore be cut from 2-in. plank. They are 2 ft. 6 in. long by 6 in. high, and are halved in the middle, as shown in Fig. For each of the two sides use 3/4-in. board, 8 in. wide and 4 ft. 3 in. high; the shape of their tops is shown sufficiently in Fig. The sides are mortised for the tenons of the top and four shelves, and their lower ends are shaped as seen in Fig. Also, below the bookcase bottom their inner edges have to be chamfered to fit against the feet, to which, as well as to the bottom piece, they are firmly fixed with round-headed screws. The bottom A is of 1-in. board, 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. by 11 in. In its ends B are cut openings, 8 in. by 3/4 in., to admit the sides. The corners are slightly rounded, and the bottom is screwed to the feet. Fig. 1785 shows one of the four shelves. These are of 3/4-in. board, 7 1/2 in. wide and 1 ft. 4 in. long, each tenon being 2 in. long, and pegged outside a standard. The top resembles the shelves, but is 8 in. wide, its front edge coming flush with the sides, whereas the front edges of the shelves stand back 1/2 in. Strips of wood, 1/2 in. thick, prevent the books going too far back; they are 4 in. wide and 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. long, and their shape is suggested in Fig. The back strip C of the bottom is only 3 1/4 in. wide, but it is 3/4 in. thick. Screws driven into it through the bottom piece fix it in place; it is also screwed to the backs of the standards like the strips. This case is not intended for heavy volumes, and the space between the shelves is only sufficient to admit octavos and smaller sizes of books, the three lower compartments being 8 1/4 in., and the two upper 7 1/4 in., high.

Fig. 1785.—Pillar Bookcase Shelf.

Fig. 1786.

Fig. 1787.

Fig. 1788.

Figs. 1786 to 1788.—Front Elevation, End Elevation, and Vertical Section of Dwart Bookcase.

Fig. 1789.—Half Plan and Section of Dwarf Bookcase.

FOR

     The dwarf bookcase illustrated by Figs. 1786 to 1789 is intended to be executed in mahogany. The length is 4 ft., height 3 ft. 6 in., and depth 1 ft. The construction is simple but strong. The ends are formed of a plain 3/4-in. board, rebated to receive the framed back, and tongued into the front pilaster. The top rail, which forms a frieze under the moulded top, is dovetailed into the front pilaster. The bottom, a 3/4-in. plain board, is housed 1/4 in. into the ends, as shown at Fig. and rebated over the plinth in front. The end pilasters are mitred to the front ones and glued upon the ends of the case, as shown in section by Fig. A bottom rail with moulded edge is planted on the ends and finishes flush with the pilasters, the return plinth sitting upon this. The whole is screwed from the inside of the end (see Fig. The shelves are movable, resting on bearers that sit in the rack shown enlarged in Fig. The rack is 3/16 in. by 3/4 in., with notches 1 1/2 in. apart, and it is screwed to the ends. The top is 1 1/2 in. thick, moulded in the solid and broken round the pilasters in front; the back is a 3/4-in. panelled frame, with two muntins and 1/2-in. bead butt panels. Leather edging is fixed to the shelves by means of fillets fitted tightly into plough grooves, and secured with sprigs as shown in Fig. The stuff required, rough sizes, includes: Top, 4 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 1 ft. 2 in. by 1 1/2 in.; bottom, 3 ft. 10 in. by 11 in. by 3/4 in.; two ends, 3 ft. 5 in. by 11 3/4 in. by 3/4 in.; three shelves, 3 ft. 9 1/2 in. by 10 1/2 in. by 3/4 in.; front plinth, 4 ft. 2 in. by 3 in. by 1 1/4 in.; end plinth, 2 ft. 2 in. by 3 in. by 3/8 in.; frieze rail, 3 ft. 9 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 3/4 in.; bottom rail, 1 ft. 5 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; necking moulds, 4 ft. 6 in. by 2 in. by 3/8 in., and 2 ft. 6 in. by 1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; two front pilasters, 3 ft. 2 in. by 3/8 in. by 1/2 in.; four end pilasters, 3 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 2 1/8 in. by 3/8 in.; two trusses, 7 3/4 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 3/4 in.; racks, 12 ft. 6 in. by 3/4 in. by 3/8 in.; bearers, 3 ft. 4 in. by 1 5/8 in. by 3/8 in.; back top rail, 3 ft. 10 in. by 3 1/2 in. by 7/8 in.; back bottom rail, 3 ft. 10 in. by 4 1/2 in. by 7/8 in.; two stiles, 3 ft. 5 in. by 3 1/4 in. by 7/8 in.; two muntins, 3 ft. by 3 1/8 in. by 7/8 in.; and three panels, 2 ft. 8 1/2 in. by 1 ft. by 1/2 in.

Fig. 1790.—Section through Bookcase End and Plinth.

Fig. 1791.—Section through Pilaster, etc.

Fig. 1792.—Bookcase Shelf Rack.

Fig. 1793.—Edge of Bookcase Shelf.

MAKING

     In the construction the ends should be rebated out 3/8 in. for the back, and the front tongue fitted into the pilasters, a housing being sunk across the inside for the bottom, and another across the top and outside for the necking bead. The top end should be squared off to the length; then clean off both sides and paper up the outside. Next set out the two front pilasters, and work the fluting; this may be done with a scratch, a piece of steel filed to shape and fixed into a stock or handle, with a face cut on one side of it to preserve the distance of the cutters from the edge (see p. 508). It is rubbed up and down until the flutes are worked to the required depth, the finishing of the ends being done with gouges and chisels. Plough the front pilasters on the back for the tongue from the outside edge, and arrange the groove so that the edge overhangs the end a trifle more than the thickness of the end pilaster; scribe a line on it from the face of the end, and gauge another line on the edge 3/8 in. from the face, and work out the rebate; then mark a mitre on each end, and with a rebate plane or shoulder plane work to a mitre the piece left on. Next glue on the pilasters, and when these are dry, fit and glue the end pilasters also, fixing them with a few screws from the inside. Square a line on each face 1/2 in. below the top of the bottom housing for the plinth sinking, and work this down 1/16 in. thick; then glue in the bottom, nailing it through the ends. Nail a stretcher across the top end, square the front of the case, and block the bottom. Fit the plinth round and block the front piece, and screw the end pieces as shown in Fig. Set out the shoulders of the frieze rail between the pilasters at the bottom, cut dovetails at the ends, and fit these into the top of the pilasters; then clean the face off and glue in. Glue up the back and fit and screw it to the rebates. Carve the trusses 1795 and and fix them to the pilasters, turn the carcase upside down on the top, and keep it flush at the back, and, with an inch block, mark round the outline of the front and ends. Cut the top carefully to the lines, and gauge round from the edge a 1 1/4-in. line, and work the moulding to this; a plough groove along the front, and a tenon saw-cut across the ends 1/8 in. deep, will be the best way to commence. Gauge lines for the various members on the edge, and work the chamfer and the moulding down to these. Work across the ends first, then the projection over the pilasters, and, finally, the run on the front edge. An easier, but inferior, way is to run the front edge through, mitre the moulding back at the break, glue a 5/8-in. piece (a piece equal in thickness to that of the truss upon the edge from the seat of the moulding, and mitre a loose piece of moulding around the break and across the ends. The last piece should be tongued on. Next fit the top, which, being narrow, may be screwed and blocked on.

Fig. 1794.—Part Section of Bookcase Back.

Fig. 1795.

Fig. 1796.

Figs. 1795 and 1796.—Elevation and Section of Truss.

Fig. 1797.

Fig. 1798.

Figs. 1797 and 1798.—Front and Side Elevations of Hanging Bookcase.

Fig. 1799.

Fig. 1799.—Plan of Hanging Bookcase.

Fig. 1800.

Fig. 1800.—Section of Moulding.

Fig. 1801.—Glass fastened in Door Frame.

RACKS AND OF

     Prepare the racks of oak or beech, cut them to the length, brad them all together, and set out the notches, starting 6 in. from each end. Run a pencil line down each side 1/4 in. on, and down to this make a series of cuts with the saw. Pare with firmer or paring chisel from the top of one cut to the bottom of the next, being careful not to split the succeeding piece off; this method of cutting ensures that the bearers will be interchangeable. Bore half a dozen holes through the lot for screws, separate them, and smooth and fix them. Fit in the bearers and shelves; the latter should be notched at the ends to pass easily over the racks as shown in Fig. Finally, plough the under edges of the shelves, and fit the edging slips and mould. The case will then be ready for polishing, but to obtain the best finish all the parts should be fitted together accurately when dry; then each should be polished or bodied in, and the whole glued up, when the finishing coat of polish may be applied.

Fig. 1802.

Fig. 1803.

Figs. 1802 and 1803.—Front and Side Elevations of Bookcase with Glass Doors.

Fig. 1804.—Bookcase Cornice.

HANGING

     The bookcase shown in Figs. 1797 to 1799 requires 10 ft. of 5/8-in. by 6 3/4-in. mahogany or walnut for the rectangular frame. The two side pieces C are continued downwards for 3 in., and on the inside of these, and 2 in. below the bottom shelf, two strips of wood are tacked or glued on. Another piece of wood, 5/8 in. by 6 3/4 in. by 3 in., is also nailed to the centre of the shelf underneath, and projects downwards to correspond with the sides. Two strips of wood are likewise fastened on each side of this, and on them slide the two drawers, which are 9 in. by 7 in. by 1 3/4 in. deep, with a small bead running along the front at the top and bottom. The two middle shelves are let into the sides as at A and may be spaced out as seen in Fig. or as required. The two doors are made from 1-in. by 5/8-in. stuff. They are 10 in. wide by 2 ft. 4 in. in length, and each is fastened by two hinges. A small catch should be screwed inside the left-hand door and made to engage with a hole drilled in a brass plate, sunk into the shelf. A narrow strip of 1/4-in. round beading should be glued round the inside of the doors, as shown in Fig. or the frame may be rebated and a fancy moulding run along the outside. The glass for the doors is held in position as shown in Fig. by gluing a few strips of wood along the inside of the frame. The moulding B for the top and sides can be turned in the lathe in the form of a ring, cut up, and glued to the top of the board, and to fill in the space in the top of the case a little fretwork or carving may be introduced. The three shelves on the sides are all of one size, or the bottom one may be larger and the other two made smaller. They are fastened to the sides of the frame as indicated at A and should be of the same thickness as those on the inside. The back of the case is 3/8 in. thick (see Fig. and the three shelves on the inside should be covered with green baize. The whole can then be finished off and french-polished.

Fig. 1805.—Supporting Movable Shelf.

Fig. 1806.—Double Rack for Bookcase Shelves.

BOOKCASE WITH

     Mahogany is a suitable wood for the bookcase shown in front elevation in Fig. 1802 and side elevation in Fig. but if this is too expensive pine or cherry may be used. The actual size of the bookcase depends entirely upon the requirements of the worker. Having decided upon the size and material, get the quantities required for the work run out at the timber yard, always allowing, of course, a working margin. Care must be taken that the wood is thoroughly seasoned and perfectly dry, otherwise it will give endless trouble. These preliminaries over, proceed to the construction of the carcase. This consists of the gables, carcase top, carcase bottom, and back. An ordinary moulded beading may be fixed to the top of the carcase (as in Fig. The shelves in a bookcase of this size are 3 ft. 4 in. long, 8 1/2 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick. They should be fixtures, as, unless a bookcase is very solidly built, movable shelves cause much trouble. One plan, should adjustable shelves be preferred, is to bore two parallel rows of holes, on the inside of the gables. These are fitted with brass pins (see Fig. and the shelves are countersunk so that the pins may be flush. Another method is that known as the double rack (see Fig. already mentioned. In this the movable slip A gives a firm support to the end of the shelf which is cut to fit upon it. The slip and rack should be about 1/2 in. thick. Having got so far, fix in the upright that divides the drawers at the bottom of the case. The back, which consists of 6-in. by 5/8-in. lining, may now be fixed (see Fig. Next come the doors. The strips of wood intended for this purpose must be tenoned and mortised as shown in Fig. The inside edges of these pieces must also be rebated, so that the glass can be let in. Having fixed the glass in its proper position, fasten the doors in their respective places. On the inside and at the bottom of one of these doors fasten a small bolt. On the other door fix a small knob similar to that shown in Fig. which will serve both as handle and fastener. The drawers should be made next. The front, ends, and back of each drawer are dovetailed to each other. In fitting the sides to the front, use the lap dovetail With this the ends are sunk in the drawer front, so that when looking at it from the front no joint is perceptible. Fit the back with the ordinary dovetails into the sides. These drawers must be cut to fit very tightly; if they do not run easily enough, a rub with glasspaper will soon ease them sufficiently afterwards. Fasten two handles to the fronts of the drawers, and they are then complete. The feet are turned from 2 3/4-in. wood. The best method is to fix them by means of two strong oak dowels in each foot. If the wall against which the bookcase is to be placed is inclined to be damp, a space should be left between the back of the case and the wall, through which the air can circulate freely; or, if it is known that the wall is damp, a better method is to make the back of the bookcase of zinc. To protect the edges of books placed on the shelves, cover the shelf with baize, over which is placed another covering of smooth American cloth.

Fig. 1807.—Fixing Bookcase Back.

BOOKCASE WITH AND

     The bookcase of which Fig. 1810 shows the front elevation, Fig. 1811 shows side elevation, and Fig. 1812 shows a vertical section and front elevation, should be constructed in mahogany. It is made up in two carcases. The lower part is enclosed by two doors with veneered panels, as shown in Fig. and supported by a base, consisting of a pine frame mortised and tenoned together, with a moulding mitred round the edges of the front and the ends. Four tapered feet are fixed to the frame at the corners. The upper part is enclosed by two glass doors, divided by astragals in the positions indicated at Fig. An astragal is a rebated bar used in glass door or window construction. A loose cornice and pediment complete the upper part. Commencing with the lower part, plane up the two gables, and square them to 2 ft. long, by 1 ft. 2 in. wide, by 7/8 in. thick. Rebate the back edges to receive the back, which is 5/8 in. thick, and tongued and grooved as shown in Figs. 1813 and The top and bottom, of 5/8-in. pine, are dovetailed to the gables. They should be flush at the front edges, and kept in at the back to allow the back to overlap. The back consists of three muntins, 3 in. wide, and two panels which are tongued to the muntins; the joints are broken with a bead. A shelf, 7/8 in. thick, rests on fillets screwed to the gables. The shelf may be bevelled away on the under side at the front to give it a thinner appearance. The two doors are mortised and tenoned together, the stiles and rails being 2 in. wide, except the two meeting stiles, which should be kept 1/4 in. wider for the rebates and bead A A moulding is run on inside the edges, and a rebate made for the panel, which is fixed with a bead on the inside (see Fig. The panels are veneered, as shown in Fig. Sound African mahogany, 1/2 in. thick, should be used for a foundation for the veneer, and the surface gone over with a toothing plane before veneering. Commence by laying the piece for the oval, allowing a good margin, which can be afterwards cut off by placing a thin pine mould cut to the size over the veneer, and drawing a sharp chisel round the edge. A showy curl veneer should be used for the oval, the two axes of which may be 1 ft. 2 in. and 8 1/2 in. It can be rubbed down with a hammer, as fully described on pp. 491 to 497. The veneer round the edges of the oval should be straight grained to show a contrast, and should be mitred at the corners, with the grain running in the direction shown in Fig. Mortise and tenon a frame together for the base 7/8 in. thick. Then mitre and glue a moulding round the edges of the front and ends. The shaped feet are screwed to the frame. The top of the lower part is 7/8 in. thick, and projects over the gables at the front to cover in the doors; it also projects 1 1/4 in. over the back. The two gables of the upper part should be squared up to 3 ft. 6 in. long by 9 1/2 in. wide by 7/8 in. thick, and rebated on the back edges for the back, similar to the lower gables. The top and bottom are dovetailed to the gables as already described for the lower carcase.

Fig. 1808.—Bottom of Bookcase Door.

Fig. 1809.—Door Knob.

Fig. 1810.

Fig. 1811.

Fig. 1812.

Figs. 1810 to 1812.—Front Elevation, Side Elevation, and Cross Section of Bookcase.

Figs. 1813 and 1814.—Half-plans of Uppers and Lower Parts of Bookcase.

Fig. 1815.—Section of Bookcase Door.

Fig. 1816.—Section of Bookcase Shelf.

Fig. 1817.—Brass Stud for Bookcase Shelf.

Fig. 1818.—Parts of Astragal.

Fig. 1819.—Detail of Glass Door.

COMPLETING

     The three movable shelves are 7/8 in. thick, and are bevelled on the under side, and a moulding is run on the edge (see Fig. Bore holes on the inside of the gables 1 in. apart for the brass studs which support the shelves. Sink the studs into the shelves at B The stiles and rails of the astragal doors are 1 3/4 in. wide by 1 in. thick. Frame up the doors before fixing in the astragals, which are made up in two pieces, C and D The moulded piece C can be bought ready made from any dealer. Draw the design on a board, and make up the four corners E with the pieces D dovetailing them together at the corners. The other pieces are next glued in position. All the joints should be strengthened by gluing on pieces of strong tape. The corners and middle pieces should be mortised to the edges of the stiles and rails. The moulded pieces are glued to the pieces D mitring them at the corners, and to the sash moulding on the stiles and rails. The glass is bedded in with putty, the latter being coloured to match the wood. A plain moulding, 2 1/2 in. wide by 1/2 in. thick, is mitred and glued to the top of the lower part of the bookcase to form a base for the upper carcase. Fig. 1820 is an enlarged view of an angle piece joined to a square corner. The cornice consists of a separate frame of pine to which the various mouldings are glued. The front and ends of the frame F are 3 1/8 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, and are dovetailed at the corners. The back of the frame is kept 1 in. in from the back, and is fixed with a dovetailed groove. The frieze G is 1 1/2 in. wide by 1/4 in. thick, glued and mitred at the corners. The piece for the dentils H is next glued to the top edge of the frieze, the dentils being cut with a gouge as shown in Fig. The top moulding I comes next, and the bottom piece J is glued to the edges of the frieze. The pediment is 5/8 in. thick, and is shaped as shown in Fig. The hollow moulding is shaped and glued to the face of the pediment, one end running into the carved patera, the outer end being mitred to a straight piece of the same moulding at the ends. The pediment is screwed to the top of the cornice; a few blocks are glued to the back. Flush bolts should be fitted to the edges of the left-hand doors at the top and bottom. Fig. 1823 shows an enlarged section of glass doors, and Fig. 1824 illustrates a cross section of the base. Brass locks and hinges complete the fittings for the bookcase.

Fig. 1820.—Cross Section of Cornice.

Fig. 1821.—Detail of Cornice.

Fig. 1822.—Detail of Pediment.

Fig. 1823.—Section of Glass Door.

Fig. 1824.—Cross Section of Bookcase Base.

Fig. 1825.—Dwarf Revolving Bookcase.

Fig. 1826.—Vertical Section of Revolving Bookcase.

DWARF

     The bookcase shown by Fig. 1825 may be constructed from American satin-walnut. Fig. 1826 shows a vertical section on A B The top and bottom boards are connected by four fretted banisters and by the centre turned column, which is tenoned about two-thirds into the top shelf and fitted snugly to the lower shelf to project through a clearing hole in the base or turntable. A disc of hard wood H is screwed on the pivot to retain the base in position when lifting the bookcase. Fig. 1828 shows the under side of the top board, and the method of striking the curves. The segment D E is struck with a radius C then with centres on the lines C D and C E produced, and with a 7-in. radius, mark the curve D A template should be made of Bristol board or thick paper, when the four sides can be marked off by it with a pencil. A moulding is worked round the edges, and fillets are glued and screwed to the under side to prevent warping. The banisters (see Fig. are housed to the bottom shelf and screwed to the fillets on the top A moulding mitred at the corners is planted on the edges of the lower shelf, thus concealing the screw heads and end grain, and giving a better finish generally. The base is of deal, 9 in. by 9 in. by 7/8 in., and is shown in plan by Fig. part of the lower shelf being omitted for the sake of clearness. Procure four castor rollers 1 in. in diameter, and sink them in their slots, leaving 1/4 in. clearance between the base and the shelf. Their pivots should fit tightly in grooves. The pivot ends pointing to the centre column may be slightly depressed, this will counteract the tendency of the rollers to work outwards when the case is revolving. The feet are made from birch, the method of securing them to the base being shown at Fig. Fit up the case temporarily and try it on the rollers, adjusting them by lowering the higher ones to the plane of the lowest roller till each has an equal bearing. Then cut off the projecting pivot of column, and fix the disc H in position to clear the baseboard in revolving. The lower shelf is divided by four fillets (see Figs. 1825 and to keep the books in their proper spaces. The case may be disconnected, the fretwork cut, and the various parts thoroughly glasspapered, stained, and polished. Prepare a full-size drawing of the fretwork on cartridge paper, and cut out the spaces on the drawing, which will then form a stencil plate; fix the plate on the wood, taking care to get it central, fasten it down with four drawing pins, and dab over the design with a sponge, using umber mixed rather thick with turpentine. The same plate will do for the four banisters, but it is usual to give the stencil plate a coat of knotting on each side when many duplicates are required. The surplus wood may be removed with a brace and bits and a keyhole saw. The end grain of the top board will require extra filling before polishing. Give it a coat of size or very thin glue, allow it to dry thoroughly, then rub down carefully with fine glass-paper; repeat this operation till the grain ceases to rise, when it will be found to take the polish without sinking in.

Fig. 1827.—Plan of Lower Part of Revolving Bookcase.

Fig. 1828.—Under-side of Top Board of, Revolving Bookcase.

Fig. 1829.—Fretwork Banister of Revolving Bookcase.

Fig. 1830.—Detail of Lower Shelf.

Fig. 1831.—Detail of Top.

Fig. 1832.—Roller.

Fig. 1833.—Side View of Foot.

Fig. 1834.—Part Elevation and Section of Revolving Bookcase.

     Fig. 1834 is a half elevation and half vertical section on the centre line of a revolving bookcase. In some instances, the actual case revolves on an iron standard mounted on cross legs, but here it is pivoted between a square plinth and a solid top, the latter being fixed on four corner pilasters. Two pairs of circular pivot plates are used, fixed centrally in the top and case, as indicated by the dotted lines in the half plan of the top Figs. 1836 and 1837 are respectively quarter horizontal sections at B and A The iron pivot plates, 2 in. in diameter, are shown in plan and elevation in Fig. Fig. 1839 is an enlarged broken section through the middle of the top of the case, showing the method of fixing the pivots and the necessary clearance; the bottom pair may be fixed similarly. After what has been said, only a few particulars as to how the bookcase is constructed need be given. The corners of the base mould are rounded, not square. The corner pilasters are of 3-in. by 1/2-in. stuff, moulded to match the case. The moulding is stopped at the bottom end, and the pilasters are sunk flush with the faces of the plinth; at the upper ends they are housed 3/8 in. into the top. The bookcase, when revolving, must just clear the corners of the outer case; and the size will be best found by making the case first, mounting the pivots, and revolving the bookcase on a drawing board, when its path, as shown by the dotted lines in Figs. 1836 and will indicate the size of the plinth and top. Four drawer rollers should be sunk flush into the upper side of the plinth to take the bearing of the case, which is otherwise liable to rub on the bottom when unequally loaded; they should be mounted as shown in Fig. with the axis of the roller lying in a line radiating from the centre. It would be a further advantage to insert in the bottom of the case an annular band of metal, over which the rollers might travel. An alternative fitting is shown in Fig. which is known as a dumb-waiter pivot pin. If these are used with the rollers described above, a pivot will not be required at the top, and the pilasters may be dispensed with; then the top will be fixed direct to the case. But by this method a central standard, about 2 in. square, will be required, into the lower end of which the sleeve, shown partly up in Fig. must be sunk, the pivot plate being fixed in the top of the plinth. The iron standard may be enclosed within a square shaft, to prevent the books rubbing against the standard, and so in time suffering more or less damage to their covers; this shaft may be about 4 in. square, built up with 3/8-in. linings, and housed into the top and bottom shelves.

Figs. 1835 to 1837.—Half Top Plan and Two Quarter Sections of Revolving Bookcase.

Fig. 1838.—Pivot Plates.

Fig. 1839.—Pivot at Top of Revolving Case.

Fig. 1840.—Friction Roller.

Fig. 1841.—Dumb-waiter Pivot Pin.

Fig. 1842 —Stationery Cabinet and Writing Desk.

Fig. 1843 —Side of Writing Desk.

STATIONERY AND

     This cabinet (see Fig. can be made of any kind of wood, but walnut is preferable. The sides (or ends), back, and front of the foundation part A are of 5/8-in. stuff; the size and shape of the ends are given in Fig. The back part is 1 ft. 4 in. by 7 in. deep. The strip B is 2 1/4 in. wide, and is sunk 1/2 in. below the points C The front is 1 ft. 4 in. by 3 1/2 in. These are all mitred or dovetailed together. The outside measurement, when the cabinet is put together, is 1 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. 3 in. A rebate, 1/2 in. deep and 1/4 in. wide, is taken out all round the inside edge to allow the bottom (which measures 1 ft. 3 1/4 in. by 1 ft. 2 1/4 in. by 1/2 in.) to be glued in. A piece of 1/4-in. stuff is glued between B and the back to form the bottom of the pen-rack; this is shown by a dotted line. Two little partitions are fitted across at D The pen-tray which is hollowed out, rests on two small ledges glued on to D Narrow strips of wood are also glued all round the part 1/4 in. from the top, so as to form a ledge for the lid to rest upon. The part F is made in a similar manner, and measures 1 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. It is 3 1/2 in. deep where it is hinged on to and 2 in. deep at the narrowest part. The size of the desk proper, when folded, is 1 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. 3 in. by 7 in. The lids A and F are made of 1/4-in. stuff, planed up smooth, and with a frame of the same thickness glued round them. Both lids have a piece of velvet or fine leather let in to form the writing surface. A small flush-bolt or catch is fitted to F at A catch is not necessary on The framework of the lid G is made of 5/8-in. stuff and the top 1/4-in. this lid is 5 in. deep. The brass stays J also shown in Fig. are made of 1/16-in. brass, 1/4 in. wide. A little peg L is riveted at one end, and projects 1/16 in., so as to fit in the slot K when the stay is open. The part M is screwed down to and N is screwed to G from the inside, a recess 4 in. long, 3/8 in. wide, and 1/2 in. deep being cut up the edges of G to allow the stays to fold in when the desk is closed.

Fig. 1844.—Brass Stay, etc.

Fig. 1845.—Slotted Brass Stay.

THE

     The stationery cabinet O is 1 ft. 2 3/4 in. long, and should just fit in the lid It is 1 ft. 1/2 in. high at the back, 10 in. at the front, and 4 1/2 in. deep from back to front. The sides and back are of 1/4-in. stuff; the rest is 1/16 in. thick. Two small drawers are fitted at P The exact height of these drawers does not matter, but 2 1/2 in. to 3 in. will be found about right. Other divisions besides those shown can be fitted to the cabinet if desired. Cut two pieces of 1/16-in. brass to the shape shown in Fig. one has a small hollow filed at the end of the slot, as at the slot in the other stay is quite straight. Fit one of these inside each end of the lid (the wood of which will want cutting slightly away) by passing a screw through the slot into the wood. The hollow R must be nearest the top of the cabinet. The cabinet is next hinged to the lid, and the stays Q are fastened to it so as to allow it to be pulled out about 3 in.; the hollow R then drops over the screw and keeps the cabinet in position until the stay is lifted up with the finger. A small turn-button S is fitted to each side to keep the cabinet from falling forward when the desk is closed. Small locks or catches should be fitted to the drawers for a like purpose, and a lock can also be fitted to the desk. The cabinet and writing-desk can now be completed by french-polishing, or staining and varnishing if common wood be used.

Fig. 1846.

Fig. 1847.

Figs. 1846 and 1847.—Front Elevation and Cross Section of Davenport Writing Cabinet.

DAVENPORT

     The top part of this writing cabinet is closed with a hinged flap, which, folding down on the top of the table, is inclined at the angle of an ordinary writing-desk. This angle can be altered in the construction by either reducing or enlarging the depth of the bottom drawer. Immediately at the back of the flap, and on the divisional shelf to which it is hinged, are placed two ink-bottles, and midway between them is a channel for receiving pens and pencils. On this shelf, note-books, etc., may be placed. There are also four drawers sliding on shelves and separated by divisions. Immediately above the drawers are pigeonholes for note-paper, old letters, accounts, etc. The top of the cabinet can be used for either books or ornaments. The cabinet is intended to stand on a side table with its back to the wall. Fig. 1846 is a front elevation of the cabinet, the dotted lines showing the arrangement of the interior. Fig. 1847 represents a vertical section on A showing the construction, A indicating a design to which the gables may be cut out. Above the top, and following the design, is a small channel cut in with a gauge and chisel, then punched with a tool that carvers use for that purpose. The top B and shelves C, D, E, F are dovetail raggled to the gables. The bottom G is lap-dovetailed to the gables. The gables are checked to receive the back, which is nailed to them and to the shelves. The bottom part (see Fig. has its grain running up and down, and the grain of the top part running across. The top part is shaped out as shown in Fig. and channelled out and punched in the same manner as the gables. Four turned balls are screwed to the bottom to raise the cabinet off the table.

Fig. 1848.—Desk Flap Up.

DESK

     The desk flap shown by Figs. 1847 and 1848 can be made either to fit into a recess or to fix against a wall. Wood about 7/8 in. thick will be most suitable for all the parts. To keep the top true it should be clamped as shown. When the bracket is glued together, the top joint should be further secured by a couple of screws. The brackets should be hinged to the side pieces, or they can be made with pins at each end fitting into sockets in the top piece or lower rail. The framing can be secured by two hold-fasts driven into the wall underneath the top piece, and the bottom of the side pieces can be nailed to the floor or skirting.

Fig. 1849.—Desk Flap Down.

CONVERTING INTO

     The pedestal writing table illustrated by Fig. 1850 is an ordinary square-legged kitchen table fitted with a cupboard and drawer carcase at each end. and a desk on top. Fig. 1850 shows a very small table, it being only 3 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 8 in., but any size of table can be fitted up on the same principle. The knee-hole is 1 ft. 6 in. broad, and, being in the middle, governs the size of the drawers and cupboard at each end. The drawers are locked secretly, and underneath the desk is a semi-secret receptacle for papers, etc. Fig. 1851 is a longitudinal section of the table, showing the general construction; Fig. 1852 is a cross section through the drawer space, giving a side view of the locking arrangement; Fig. 1853 is a section through the desk, showing the shelves in the knee-hole, and a series of flaps cut out of the solid top to give access to the space below the desk; Fig. 1854 is a section on the line A B showing the pigeonholes in the interior of the desk; Fig. 1855 is a part plan of the table with the top part of the desk taken away, showing the position of the flaps; Fig. 1856 is an enlarged section through a table leg and gable, the dotted lines representing the front and end rails. The gables which are 1/2 in. less in width than the over-all width of the front and back rails of the table, are checked at the top to fit inside the rails to which they are screwed, the bottom B being dovetailed to the gables. As the legs of a kitchen table are tapered inside, they require to be checked to allow the outside gables to stand plumb. It may happen that the table which is to be converted has very small legs, and, when they are checked, the gable lies hard against the end rails; but when this cannot be the case owing to the size of the leg and the position of the rails, a block can be fixed to the gables to close up the space which is shown in Fig. The drawer divisions D are raggle-dovetailed to the gables, and fillets E are screwed at the back of them. Before fixing the drawer carcase together, put on the locks. Blocks F are fixed to the gables to carry the locking part which has two screw slots cut out of it to allow it to slide up and down. At the top end a mortise is cut, into which is inserted a small lever fixed with an iron pin. When the lever is depressed, it raises the part G high enough to allow the back of the drawers to clear the small brass plates which hold them in. When the drawers are pushed hard back and the lever is raised, the sliding part G is lowered, and the plates fit over the drawer backs. The lever is of sufficient length to give the necessary power. The gable requires to be mortised also. The shelves in the knee-hole should be raggle-dovetailed to the gables to bind the two ends together. The legs should not be checked at the back of the rails, as that would weaken the table; it is better to check the gable at that part. After the carcases are fixed to the table, the shelves in the knee-hole glued in, and the back nailed on, the false bottom K should be fitted, and fixed to the fillets after they are screwed on. Fillets are also screwed to the inside of the cupboard to carry the shelves. The cupboard door, which is mortised and tenoned, is hung 1/8 in. inside to break the joint. The fronts of the drawers project 1/8 in. or so, and are rounded off as shown in Fig. The desk, the bottom of which is formed by the table top, is secret-dovetailed in front, and the drawer dovetailed at the back. The divisions are raggled into the top part of the desk, which is nailed down to the sides and back. The bead, shown in elevation in Fig. is let into the desk sides, and projects above the top the same distance as the back one. It also projects out from the sides the thickness of itself to mitre with the side bead on the top. The flap is clamped at each end with 2-in. pieces to keep it from warping, the bead being returned on the front and ends, and rounded at the top end. The flap is hung with brass butts, the ball being sunk into the bead. The desk is fixed by means of screws from below, as shown by Fig. To facilitate the raising of the flaps under the desk, two holes should be countersunk in them, and screws inserted. The edges of the screw heads should be slightly rounded, otherwise they may cut the fingers. The countersink must also be large enough to allow of the fingernail being inserted below the head of the screw. Small brackets may be fixed at the corner of the knee-hole for ornamentation. When completed, the table may be either painted or stained.

Fig. 1850.

Fig. 1851.

Fig. 1852.

Figs. 1850 to 1852.—General View, Longitudinal Section and Horizontal Section of Knee-hole Writing Table Converted from Kitchen Table.

Fig. 1853.—Section through Desk and Table.

Fig. 1854.

Fig. 1855.

Figs. 1854 and 1855.—Section and Part Plan of Table Top.

Fig. 1856.—Section through Table Leg and Gable.

Fig. 1857.—Pedestal Knee-hole Writing Table.

Fig. 1858.

Fig. 1859.

Fig. 1860.

Figs. 1858 to 1860.—Half Back Elevation, Side Elevation, and Cross Section through Pedestal of Knee-hole Desk.

PEDESTAL

     This pedestal writing table, as illustrated by Fig. can be made externally of pitchpine and walnut, the inside fittings being of American whitewood. Pitchpine, however, although it looks well in combination with walnut, is, unless thoroughly dry, a treacherous material to deal with; therefore it is advisable to make the visible parts entirely of walnut, using whitewood (or mahogany for preference) for the inside work. The panels and drawer fronts could be veneered with burr walnut, but as this is a somewhat difficult veneer with which to make a good job, it is advisable to form them of solid walnut. The material should be obtained as dry as possible, and free from shakes and blemishes. The length of the table is 4 ft., the width of the framework from back to front 2 ft., and the height 2 ft. 9 in.; and before proceeding with its construction working drawings should be prepared. Fig. 1858 shows a half elevation of the back, Fig. 1859 a complete side elevation, Fig. 1860 a vertical section, Fig. 1861 an enlarged section through the table top, and Fig. 1862 an enlarged section through the top of one of the pedestals.

Fig. 1861.—Cross Section of Knee-hole Table Top.

Fig. 1862.—Section through Upper Part of Table Pedestal.

WRITING

     The pedestals may be taken in hand first. In each there are three pieces of frame-work—namely, two sides and one back; and in size they are exactly the same, the only difference being in the fitting up. The bottom rails should be 6 1/2 in. wide, this width being a convenient one to fix the skirting to. Walnut need not be used throughout; for the sake of economy a strip 3 in. wide may be glued to another 3 1/2 in. wide of pine or any cheaper wood. Four bottom rails 2 ft. long and two 1 ft. 3 in. long will be required, the same number of top rails 2 1/2 in. wide, twelve stiles 2 ft. 1 1/2 in. by 2 1/2 in. (four of these are for the backs), and four muntins 1 ft. 6 in. by 2 1/2 in. The door in the right-hand pedestal will require two rails 1 ft. 1 in. by 2 1/2 in. and two stiles 1 ft. 9 in. by 2 1/2 in. All the foregoing will be 1 in. in thickness, and the stuff should be got out and prepared straight and perfectly out of winding, and should then be set out, not forgetting to set back the 1/2 in. allowed for the panels. The setting out being completed, the requisite mortising, tenoning, shouldering, and ploughing can be proceeded with, It should be noticed that the mortises in the stiles of the pedestal sides, also of the door, do not go right through, as the end grain of the tenons, if allowed to show, would make the work look unsightly; to obviate this, the tenons are stumped and fox-wedged. The mortises for the back frames, being hidden, may go right through. The framing may be knocked together, care being taken that the shoulders come up well. The pedestal framing is rebated round the upper inner edges to receive the tops, except in the front, where it is dovetailed; and the rails should be rebated before the framing is glued up. The bottoms of the pedestals, as shown by Fig. are housed 1/4 in. deep into the rails and stiles all round, and it will be easier to plough the rails before gluing up, and to run saw-cuts in the stiles afterwards, the intervening wood being then taken out with a sharp chisel. The groove should be small enough to ensure a tight fit for the bottom. The panels will be of 5/8 in. finished thickness, and the sizes for these can be obtained from the framework already prepared; eleven panels will be required, five for each pedestal and one for the door. These having been faced up, thicknessed, and accurately squared, set a cutting gauge to 2 in., and cut all round the panels on the face to the depth of 1 1/2 in.; this will allow a 1 1/2-in. margin to show, as seen in Fig. Set another gauge to the width of the plough groove, and mark the edges of all the panels from the back, and sink them to the gauge marks.

GLUING UP

     For gluing up, place a couple of strips on the bench, perfectly out of winding, and be sure that the glue is hot and sufficiently liquid. (For the making of glued joints see p. Bring the joints well up with cramps, and see that the framing is perfectly square and out of winding. The best thing to do with the framing for the present is to pack it away in a dry place, with strips laid between each portion so that the air may get all round them. If laid out of winding, a weight placed on the top of the lot will keep them from casting. In order that the glued joints of any material which has to be jointed may have a good chance to get hard before being required for use, attention should now be given in this direction. Commence with the pedestal drawer bottoms, of which four are required; as the drawers are 1 ft. 1 in. wide and the grain runs across them, four bottoms must be prepared 1 ft. 1 in. long and about 1 ft. 10 in. wide, to make which eight pieces 9 in. by 1/2 in., and four pieces 4 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., all 1 ft. 1 in. long, will be required, two of the 9-in. pieces and one of 4 1/2 in. width making one bottom. There are also two drawers in the table, for which two bottoms 1 ft. 11 in. wide by 1 ft. 10 in. will be wanted; these may also be built up of two 9-in. and one 4 1/2-in. boards 1 ft. 11 in. long. For dust-boards between the drawers in the pedestal—three in number, and about 1 ft. long by 1 ft 7 in. wide—3/8-in. stuff may be jointed up as before. The tops and bottoms of the pedestals are of 1-in. stuff, and measure 2 ft. by 1 ft. 3 in. in size, and to the front edges of the tops a piece of walnut about 2 in. wide is jointed.

Fig. 1863.—Plan of Table Top Framework.

Fig. 1864.

Fig. 1864.—Moulding round Writing Table Top.

TOP OF

     For the table top, a piece of good sound dry yellow pine will suffice, the moulding, etc., being planted on. The size being 4 ft. by 2 ft., three 1-in. boards, 9 in. wide and 4 ft. long, will be required, and it will be advisable to cross-tongue the joints. A piece of 1-in. stuff will also be required to cover over the knee-hole under the drawers, as shown in plan (see Fig. this will be 1 ft. 8 in. wide and 2 ft. long. The frame-work of the table top, which is 5 in. wide, may next be taken in hand. It is shown in the figures with the corners framed up to carry the same line as the framing of the pedestals; this looks much better than the plain mitre, but the latter is much the quicker to do. Presuming that framing is decided upon, clamp the ends of the two sides and back. The sides will have to be stump-tenoned and fox-wedged, but the back may have its mortises run through, as the rebate will cover them. Cut the tenons of the former 1/8 in. less in length than the depth of the mortises, and slightly undercut the mortises, so that there will be room for the tenon to spread out when wedged. The wedges, of which four will be sufficient, the two outside ones being the largest, must be of hard wood, or they will probably snap off. See that the mortises are free from stray chips, and that the glue is hot. The joints may be made and cramped, and placed aside to dry. When the glue is hard, the top framing can be taken in hand again; and after facing and thicknessing the two sides and back of the frame, the board that is to go in the bottom, the three rails and pieces to go between the drawers, and the two narrow bearers, the sides and back may be rebated, grooved, and tongued together. The ovolo mouldings may be worked now, or when the frame is glued up. Place the back and ends together on the bench, and draw the joints up with a cramp. The exact width for the front rails can now be got; on each end of these rails (see Fig. are two dovetails. Having cut these, lay the rails in position on the sides and mark and cut the sockets. The rails being in position, the centre of the front may be marked for the piece between the drawers, and this piece may be prepared and dovetailed (as shown in Fig. The dovetail groove must be diminished 1/4 in. on the back, so as to make it fit like a wedge. Fig. 1861 shows in section a rail, with a screw passing through it into the top; this rail runs right across at the back (see dotted line in Fig. the ends are dovetailed into the sides, and the back edge fits into a rebate in the rail. The cover board and the bearers for the drawers, coming flush with the top of the bottom rail, can be tenoned into it as shown in Fig. and either dovetailed or grooved and tongued into the back; dovetails will make a much firmer job and keep the back from springing much better than the other method. The bottom will act as two of the drawer bearers, and a rail will be required to divide the two drawers; this may be of 2-in. by 1-in. section, and it can be grooved into the bottom and back about 1/4 in. and tenoned into the division in front. After ploughing 3/8-in. grooves in the two sides and top front rail, to accommodate the holding clips of the top, as shown in Fig. the whole may be fitted together to see that all joints are satisfactory; and if so, gluing up may be proceeded with. Place a couple of strips of wood—out of winding, and about 4 ft. 6 in. long—on the bench, leaving them about 1 ft. 9 in. apart; and then, having the glue quite hot, proceed to glue all parts into their places, using a cramp where necessary to draw the joints close up, and making sure that everything is square. Under the table top, as shown in Fig. a fillet with a scotia worked on its front edge is fixed; this is formed by jointing a strip of walnut to a wider strip of pine; jointing is, of course, unnecessary if a piece of walnut sufficiently wide is to hand. The top may now be taken in hand and planed up perfectly straight and out of winding, and also to a uniform thickness of 1 in., and cut to the proper length and width. The edges must be carefully squared for jointing with the nosing (see Fig. and have an 1/8-in. groove ploughed all round in the centre to accommodate a loose tongue. The nosing may now be prepared, and should be squared and thicknessed both ways, and grooved on the jointing face, to match that ploughed around the edge of the top. This done, it may be mitred around the top and glued, using cross tongues in the grooves, and fixing temporary wooden cramps across till the glue is dry. The nosing should be worked up after the glue is hard, but if preferred it can be worked previous to jointing. When the glue has hardened, the scotia may be glued and screwed around underneath as shown, and the veneer edging laid on the top. This latter should be about 2 in. wide, but its width may be governed by the size of the leather which it is desired to work in.

Fig. 1865.—Joint at Corner of Pedestal.

Fig. 1866.—Plan of Pedestal Top.

Fig. 1867.—Method of Fixing Top.

Fig. 1868.—Division between Table Top Drawers.

COMPLETING OF

     The pedestals, the framing of which is already glued up, may now be completed by cleaning it off on the face, fitting all the corners together—for details, see Fig. working and stopping the ovolo moulding on the angles as shown. Care should be taken to see that the work is quite square and that the corners come well together. The bottoms will be fitted into the grooves already ploughed in the sides and back, and secured in them by screws passing through the sides and back from the outside; the heads will be covered by the skirting. The tops will be fixed in the rebates and dovetails provided by brass screws and cups placed round the edges, as shown in Figs. 1866 and The divisions between the drawers consist of front and back rails, dovetailed into the sides of the pedestals in the same manner as shown in Fig. The side rails or runners should fit close up to the panels, and in order that they may do so the muntins must be notched and the ends must be tenoned to fit into mortises cut into the front and back rails. All being ready for gluing up, take the left hand pedestal and first glue the back and sides together. Put the cramps on, then glue in the top and drive all the screws home; slide the bottom in and similarly secure it, and well glue-block it underneath. Next glue in the back division rails, place the bearers in position, then slide in the dust-boards, and lastly fix the front rails. A few angle-blocks glued in the back corners of the pedestals, as shown by Fig. will give additional strength, but they must be small or they will prevent the drawers from quite closing. To ensure that the drawers will slide properly, narrow strips of wood should be glued in the panels just above the bearers. The right-hand pedestal will be treated in the same manner, but, there being no drawers, it will be easier to do. The skirting, a section of the moulding of which is shown in Fig. can then be mitred round the base of the pedestals, glued on, and secured by screws from the back.

AND OTHER

     The brackets, which fit in the upper corners of the knee-hole, are slightly sunk on the face (this sinking can be left plain, or chequered with a carver’s punch), and are dovetailed to the sides of the pedestals as shown by Fig. Four blocks C (see Figs. 1863 and are now glued and bradded to the tops of the pedestals, so that when the top framework is placed over them it will be held in its proper position. The table top will be secured to the top framing by eight hardwood clips (see Fig. p. 548); the screw holes should be bored to give the screws plenty of room, so as to prevent splitting the wood when they are screwed home. A bead to break the joint must be fixed round the bottom of the top framing, as shown in Fig. and the drawers made and fitted. The table top is now complete, with the exception of the leather covering. The right-hand pedestal can now have its door fitted and hung, and the drawers can be made and fitted to the other. The drawer fronts are 1 in. thick, and the sides and back 1/2 in. Locks and drop handles are fitted to the drawers and also to the door. Castors can be fixed to blocks arranged at each corner of the pedestals inside the skirting, and of such thickness that the skirting will just clear the ground. It should be finished by french-polishing.

Fig. 1869.—Moulding on Writing Table Plinth.

Fig. 1870.—Brackets Dovetailed to Pedestal Sides.

KITCHEN FURNITURE.

MINCING OR

A BLOCK (as illustrated by Figs. 1871 and on which meat, vegetables, etc., can be minced with an upright chopper, can be made with a piece of ash 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. by 9 7/8 in. by 2 in., two ends of deal 11 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in., one side of deal 1 ft. 3 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in., and one side of birch 1 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. by 3/8 in. Plane the block to thickness, and square the sides and ends. The fence above the block, 1 ft. 1 1/4 in. long by 9 3/4 in. wide, inside measurement, should first be dovetailed together. Then separate the three pieces and rebate them to a depth of 1/8 in., so as to fit over the block. This forms a close joint, and prevents the minced stuff working down between block and fence. The two end pieces are grooved for a loose side of 3/8-in. thick birch (see Fig. this lifts out to enable the minced contents to be readily removed from the block. The inside of the block should be glasspapered clean, and the outside sized and varnished.

Fig. 1871.—Plan of Mincing Block.

Fig. 1872.—Side View of Mincing Block.

KITCHEN

     A small corner cupboard as illustrated in Fig. 1874 will be found very useful, and can be quickly constructed. The body, outer frame, and door frame can be made from 3/4-in. prepared stuff, to save planing up. No mortises, grooves, or rebates will be required. Fig. 1874 gives a general view of the cupboard, and Fig. 1875 a general view of the body. To make the body, cut from some 8-in. by 3/4-in. prepared stuff four 2-ft. 6-in. lengths. Nail small cleats or battens across them (see Fig. these will make the two parts that form the back of the cupboard. Fig. 1876 shows a plan of top and bottom; these should be cut from 3/4-in. stuff. Two shelves must be cut from 1/2-in. or 5/8-in. prepared material to the shape of the top and bottom, but 5/16 in. less from front to back. This will allow the door frame to come flush with the outer frame when the door is closed. The four pieces referred to being cleated, and the top, bottom, and shelves cut to their proper shape and size, nail the two parts that form the back to the top and bottom; then place the shelves on the cleats C nail with small wire nails, and the body is finished, except for planing the front edges of the back a little, so that the outer frame may lie flat and even against it.

Fig. 1873.—Loose Side of Mincing Block.

Fig. 1874.—Kitchen Corner Cupboard.

OUTER OF

     The outer frame is made from 3/4-in. stuff as follows: Cut off two 2-ft. 6-in. lengths, and two 2-ft. 1/2-in. lengths; these should be 2 1/2 in. wide. Halve the ends, and nail these together, and the frame F is made. A small portion of the frame is cut away with a chisel to receive two butt hinges. This frame is nailed against the front of the body, and the outer edges of the frame are planed to correspond with the angle of the back of the cupboard. The door frame is made from stuff 2 in. wide, and the ends are halved and put together as the outer frame, which should thus fit nicely within the outer frame. On the inside of the door frame a piece of pine of suitable length and width, and about 5/16 in. thick, nicely planed up, is nailed or screwed to the frame, as shown in Fig. this piece forms the door-panel, and at the same time tends to strengthen the door frame, and looks as well from the outside as if the frame had been mortised and tenoned together, and the panel let into a rebate in the frame. Secure two 1 1/2-in. butt hinges, as shown. Hang the door D to the outer frame by securing the hinges H Fix a knob and fastener as shown in Fig. then fill in the nail-holes with putty, and rub up the outer frame, door frame, and panel with glasspaper; then the cupboard may be stained, sized, and varnished, or painted.

Fig. 1875.—Shelves, etc., of Corner Cupboard.

Fig. 1876.—Top or Bottom of Corner Cupboard.

Fig. 1877.—Corner Cupboard Door.

FLOUR

     A serviceable flour bin, as shown by Fig. and in vertical section by Fig. can be made of dry pine, of which the following quantities are necessary. For the front and back, eight pieces 2 ft. 7 in. by 7 in. by 7/8 in.; ends, eight pieces, 2 ft. 1 in. by 7 in. by 7/8 in.; bottom, four pieces, 2 ft. 7 in. by 7 in. by 7/8 in.; top or lid, four pieces, 2 ft. 7 in. by 7 in. by 3/4 in.; half-round moulding, 10 ft. by 1 1/2 in. by 3/4 in.; plinth, 10 ft. by 2 in. by 3/8 in.; corner angle-pieces, six pieces, 2 ft. by 1 1/2 in. by 1 1/2 in., and two pieces, 2 ft. 6 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 1 1/2 in. For the turned feet, 2 ft. by 3 1/4 in. by 3 1/4 in. of ash will be required. The front, back, and ends are of 7-in. by 7/8-in. grooved and tongued boards, glued together, and when dry, planed and cleaned off. The vertical corner joints are dovetailed, and when finally fixed an angle-piece is screwed in each corner (see Fig. The bottom is of 7/8-in. thick grooved and tongued boards, grooved into the surround with angle-pieces placed along the inside, and mitred and fitted over the vertical angle-pieces as in Fig. The lid is of 3/4-in. thick grooved and tongued boards, glued together, with two battens screwed on the underside, or the ends of the boards can be tongued and tenoned for a clamp. It is then hinged with strong to a board B 4 in. wide, which is screwed to the top edges of the ends and the back. The screws are recessed, and driven from the inside. A half-round moulding M is bradded to the edge of the lid to form a folding joint, and carried round the hinge piece (see Fig. A plinth P 2 in. by 3/8 in. is fixed at the bottom. Then mount the bin on four turned feet with dowelled ends to fit into the bottom of the bin. They should also be glued and further fixed with a small hardwood wedge; see Fig. in which W is the wedge, F the turned foot, B the bottom, and E the end. The bin should then be sandpapered and cleaned inside and out, and the exterior painted and varnished, or oak grained. Cover the inside with strong, clean white paper, such as cartridge drawing-paper, fixed with good flour paste. This prevents the flour getting darkened by contact with the wood. The paper should be renewed from time to time.

Fig. 1878.—Flour Bin.

Fig. 1879.—Vertical Section of Flour Bin.

Fig. 1880.—Corner of Flour Bin.

Fig. 1881.—Flour Bin Foot.

Fig. 1882.—Flour Bin Top Front Corner.

HOUSEHOLD

     A small cabinet, made as shown in the accompanying drawings, should prove most useful. Fig. 1883 is part front elevation, part section. In Fig. which is a section on N N A is one of a pair of vertical side pieces, into each of which a shelf B is housed. A top C is jointed as shown in Fig. A back may be fitted in by grooving the inner edges of the sides, or by rebating and screwing on a strip as in Fig. Two small doors hinged to the sides are framed up and panelled flush on the inside. Fig. 1886 shows a section of them at the meeting stiles. The piece D should be screwed from behind. E is a strip to carry hooks for the reception of keys, etc, and F to which this strip is fastened, is screwed to the shelf. A space G is divided centrally, and is useful for the reception of small books, etc. The spaces H may receive small drawers, which may be made of tobacco boxes with the lids removed, and with wooden fronts L screwed through holes punched in the fronts of the boxes. Small compartments J are closed by sliding fronts pierced by centre-bit holes, as indicated by the dotted circle. Each space may contain a ball of string, the hole being used to facilitate the removal of the front and to admit one end of the string. The vertical partition K is carried well up so that a gum or paste-pot with a protruding brush may be protected if placed in the recess at the side. The inside of each door has a strip of leather near the top fastened transversely (as in Fig. and in the loops formed some such article as a hammer, screwdriver, or sardine-tin opener may be placed. This will be found very handy for a number of household tools, etc. The cabinet may be hung to the wall by eye-plates, attached one on each side at about the level of M The total width of the article is 17 in., the height is 23 1/4 in., and the depth is 6 in.

Fig. 1883.—Part Elevation and Section of Tidy.

Fig. 1884.—Cross Section of Tidy.

Fig. 1885.—Back of Tidy Jointed to Side.

Fig. 1886.—Section through Door Meeting Stiles.

Fig. 1887.—Looped Leather Strip.

SPICE WITH

     To make a spice box as illustrated by Fig. yellow pine or deal is the best material, but, in any case, the wood must be thoroughly dry. The following pieces will be required: One piece 7 3/4 in. by 6 1/2 in. by 1/4 in. for back of case; two 7 3/4 in. by 3 in. by 1/4 in. for sides; two 7 3/4 in. by 3 1/4 in. by 1/4 in. for top and bottom; four 6 1/2 in. by 2 5/8 in. by 3/16 in. for shelves; one 6 1/8 in. by 1 in. by 1/4 in. for partition; one 7 1/4 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 1/4 in. for ornament; eighteen 2 3/8 in. by 1 1/8 in. by 3/16 in. for sides of drawers; eight 2 5/8 in. by 1 1/8 in. by 3/16 in. for backs, and eight 3 in. by 1 3/8 in. by 1/4 in. for the fronts of small drawers; eight 3 in. by 2 3/8 in. by 3/16 in. for bottom of small drawers; one 5 7/8 in. by 1 1/8 in. by 3/16 in. for back of bottom drawer; one 6 1/4 in. by 1 3/8 in. by 1/4 in. for front of bottom drawer; and one 6 1/4 in. by 2 3/8 in. by 3/16 in. for botton of drawer, These are all finished sizes. The other materials required are nine small brass knobs, two bracket eyes, four wooden feet, and a handful of small nails. To make the case, cut the two side pieces to the shape shown by Fig. Cut four grooves (see Figs. 1889 and 1/8 in. deep and 2 1/2 in. long, in which to fit the shelves, and treat the back edge of these pieces in the same manner. The width of the grooves is just sufficient to allow the shelves to fit tightly into them. At equal distances from each other carefully mark out the positions for the grooves by dividing the side piece into five equal parts. The places for the grooves being ascertained, draw lines across representing the widths of the grooves; then cut these lines down to a uniform depth with a chisel, cutting downwards, or, guided by a straightedge, draw it along so that it cuts into the wood. The bottoms of the grooves need not be absolutely smooth, as they are not seen when the parts are fitted together. Nail the top and bottom on to the sides. The feet can be put on at the same time by driving the nail first through the foot (see Fig. The case when fixed (see Fig. should measure, inside, 7 3/4 in. by 6 1/4 in. Next take three of the four shelves and cut them as shown by Fig. The piece cut from the middle is 1 in. long and 1/4 in. wide. The pieces cut from the sides are 3/8 in. long, and 1/8 in. wide. The fourth and bottom shelf is cut similarly, only the middle piece is left in. Fit the shelves and partition into their respective places, the partition being nailed to the top of the case and to the bottom shelf. If the back is now fixed in its place, the case (see Fig. may be considered complete. All that remains to be done is to make the drawers. The “fronts” (so called for convenience) should be cut so that the sides will fit into them as in Fig. After making the drawers, fix a knob on each to serve as a handle for pulling them out. If the remaining piece is cut to the shape shown by Fig. a passable ornament will be the result. It is fixed to the top by nails driven down into the two side pieces. By fixing two bracket eyes to the back, the box can either be hung against the wall or stood in any convenient place. In order to add a finish to the box, it can either be stained and polished, or painted—according to taste.

Fig. 1888.—Spice Box with Drawers.

Fig. 1889.

Fig. 1890.

Figs. 1889 and 1890.—Spice Box Sides.

Fig. 1891.—Spice Box Foot.

Fig. 1892.—Vertical Outline of Spice Box.

Fig. 1893.—Spice Box Shelf.

Fig. 1894.—Spice Box Case.

Fig. 1895. —Part of Spice Box Drawer.

Fig. 1896.—Top of Spice Box.

Fig. 1897.—Plate Rack.

Fig. 1898.

Fig. 1899.

Figs. 1898 and 1899.—Front and End Elevations of Plate Rack.

     The plate rack illustrated by Figs. and 1899 should be made of good red deal. For the rails and stiles of the frame-work, wood 1 1/4 in. thick and 1 1/4 in. or 1 1/2 in. wide will be suitable, except for the two top rails at the ends, which should be twice the breadth of the other rails, in order to allow the tenons to pass over each other. The lengths of the various parts and the number of pieces required can be obtained from Figs. 1897 to First saw off the pieces about 1/2 in. longer than the finished lengths, and plane the face side and face edges square. Gauge them to thickness and breadth, and plane. Next set out and make the mortise-and-tenon joints. Set out the centres of the holes for the bars. The distance apart of the centres for the plate portion should be about 2 in., and for the dish part about 3 in. The holes can then be bored right through, or partly, as preferred; the two middle rails should be bored right through. Care must be taken to bore these holes true with a twist bit. The bars, which should be about 9/16 in. in diameter, can be prepared by hand as follows: Cut strips of wood about 3/4 in. square, and of the full length required, and plane up to 5/8 in. square. Then plane off each corner so as to form an octagon in section, and next plane the resultant corners so as to form sixteen sides. The strips can then be made almost round with a smoothing plane set fine, or with a hollow or bead plane. Finish the bars with glasspaper. A simple apparatus for holding the bars whilst planing (see Fig. is made by chamfering one edge of two pieces of wood and nailing them together. A piece of wood should be nailed at one end to form a stop (see B, Fig. Now fit the plate rack together and wedge the tenons into the mortises, or fasten them with hardwood pins. The joints should be painted with a mixture of white-lead, red-lead, and a little oil before fastening together; this preserves the joints, and is better than glue. Any projecting parts at the joints should be smoothed off and the two parts connected to the feet pieces and top rails. The top is made of a 1-in. board, with the edges rounded as shown in Fig. and should be secured to the top rails by means of a few nails or screws.

     The plate rack or drainer, shown in half front elevation by Fig. 1901 and in vertical section by Fig. is made almost entirely of 1/2-in. wood, and holds three dozen plates in three sizes; a special place has not been made for dishes, but the top is made full, so that they rest on it, leaning against the wall. The two side pieces are prepared first, the curved brackets at the bottom being cut out with a bow-saw, and finished with gouge, chisel, and spokeshave. The shape of these brackets may be varied, and the total length between them is 3 ft. 5 in. To form the bars or uprights which keep the plates in their places, rip two boards, 2 ft. 8 1/2 in. by 11 in. by 1/2 in., each into eleven equal strips, which must then be planed down to 3/4 in. wide. The four thicker horizontal pieces are prepared about 1 in. thick and exactly 2 ft. 1 in. long; three of them are 1 1/4 in. wide, and the fourth is 2 1/4 in. The two bottom pieces should have the top inside corner bevelled off. Take two of the narrower pieces, and, starting 1 3/8 in. from one end, screw at even distances along them eleven of the 3/4-in. strips, whose ends finish flush with the top piece, and lap over the other slightly. The two thicker pieces from outside to outside, if made 1 in. thick, should be 2 ft. 8 in. apart. Before screwing on the other eleven strips, slightly bevel one edge of the horizontal pieces, and so compensate for the rake of the upright pieces, as seen in the side view Now get out the thinner horizontal strips, and slightly bevel off the inside top corner; fasten with brads and screws to the upright piece. There are now two grids, which can be connected by attaching the four battens, 3/4 in. thick, which support them in position, two at each end. In attaching these, work from the inside end, and the rake of the back grid will come as required. Place the double grid on the floor, resting it on one end; lay one side piece carefully in its place on top, set off screw-holes accurately, and from the outside screw the battens in position; also put screws into the ends of the thick horizontal pieces. Turn it over, and, if all is square, screw on the other side in the same manner. It is quite possible to screw the battens on from the inside, by which method the screw-heads are hidden, but this is rather awkward to do. To complete the plate rack, two mouldings should be mitred at the ends, and glued and bradded in position. A piece of broom-handle will serve for the dish-cloth rod at the bottom.

Fig. 1900.—Appliance for Holding Bars whilst Planing.

Fig. 1901.—Half Front Elevation of Hanging Plate Rack.

Fig. 1902.—Section of Hanging Plate Rack.

PANTRY OR

     Fig. 1903 is a front elevation of a pantry safe which is rectangular in plan, and Fig. 1904 shows the end elevation. For the three pieces of framing, six stiles, 2 ft. 8 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; three rails for the door, 1 ft. 10 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; and six rails for the ends, 1 ft. 6 in. by 2 in. by 1 in. will be required. These pieces are mortised and tenoned together, the six top and bottom rails having haunched tenons, as shown in Fig. The other three rails have tenons as shown in Fig. and the pieces of framing are glued and wedged together. The two framings for the ends are rebated 1/2 in. each way on the back edges to receive the back, which is formed of 3-in. by 1/2-in. tongue and groove-jointed matchboarding. The front edge of the ends has a 3/4-in. chamfer on the outside corners. The shelves and top should be got out of a wide board of pine or whitewood. The top, when finished, is 1 ft. 10 1/2 in. long and 1 ft. 6 in. wide, which allows it to project 3/4 in. over the front and ends. The projection should either have a nosing worked on, as shown in Figs. 1903 and or a chamfer. The shelves are 1 ft. 3 3/4 in. wide by 1 in. thick, supported by four fillets, 1 ft. 3 3/4 in. by 3/4 in. by 1/2 in., screwed to the sides of the safe as shown in Figs. 1907 and In fixing together, the top may be secured to the ends with 1 1/2-in. screws, three through each top rail. The bottom shelf is fixed with screws to the fillets, thus securing the lower ends of the sides as shown in Fig.

Fig. 1903.

Fig. 1904.

Figs. 1903 and 1904.—Front and End Elevations of Pantry Safe.

Fig. 1905.

Fig. 1905.—Top and Bottom Rail Joint.

Fig. 1906.

Fig. 1906.—Middle Rail Joint.

Fig. 1907.—Cross Section of Pantry Safe.

Fig. 1908.—Bottom Shelf of Pantry Safe.

FITTING

     Before fixing the back, the framing should be squared, and a temporary lath fastened diagonally across the front to hold it square until the back is completed. Fit in the boards for the back and fasten with 1 1/2-in. oval wire nails. Fig. 1909 shows the end rebated to receive the back. A 1 1/2-in. screw through the top into the edge of the back will stiffen it considerably. Two or three hooks should be screwed into the top for meat to hang from (see Fig. and the middle shelf should be left loose, so that it can be removed when the hooks are used. The door may next be fitted in, and a 3/8-in. bead, worked down each side, will prevent the butt hinges looking unsightly on the hanging side; 2-in. butt hinges are used, and are fixed 3 in. from each end, the whole of the hinge being let into the door stile. The spaces are covered with perforated zinc, which may be fastened on the inside of the safe with tacks, or may be secured by beads (as shown in Figs. 1903 and which is a neater and better method. About 60 ft. of 1/2-in. beading will be required for the latter method, the beads being mitred at the corners, and fastened with 1-in. brads. The door may be fastened either with an ordinary turnbutton or lock, or with a special catch.

Fig. 1909.—Back Corner of Pantry Safe.

Fig. 1910.

Fig. 1911.

Figs. 1910 and 1911.—Front Elevation and Section of Tall Cupboard Pantry.

MATERIALS FOR

     A cupboard pantry (see illustration of front elevation and vertical section, Figs. 1910 and can be made with some clean, sound, and dry yellow pine, prepared in the following sizes: Two ends, 7 ft. by 1 ft. 2 1/8 in. by 3/4 in.; two front corner stiles, 7 ft. by 4 in. by 7/8 in. For the back frame, two rails, 3 ft. 6 in. by 4 in. by 3/4 in., and two stiles, 7 ft. by 4 in. by 3/4 in.; one panel, 2 ft. 10 in. by 6 ft. 4 in. by 3/8 in. For the door, two stiles, 5 ft. 6 in. by 4 in. by 7/8 in., two rails, 3 ft. by 5 in. by 7/8 in., one rail, 3 ft. by 4 in. by 7/8 in., and one panel, 3 ft. 6 in. by 2 ft. 4 in. by 7/16 in.; fillets for zinc panel, 7 ft. by 7/16 in. by 1/4 in. One top, 3 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 3 in. by 3/4 in.; one bottom, 3 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 3 in. by 3/4 in.; one division, 3 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 3 in. by 3/4 in.; four shelves, 3 ft. 6 in. by” 1 ft. 1 in. by 1/2 in. For the drawer, one front, 3 ft. by 1 ft. by 3/4 in., one back, 3 ft. by 11 1/8 in. by 1/2 in., two ends, 1 ft. 2 in. by 11 3/4 in. by 1/2 in., and one bottom, 3 ft. by 11 3/4 in. by 3/8 in.. Two fillets, 2 ft. by 1 in. by 3/4 in.; two folding rebate slips, 5 ft. 6 in. by 7/8 in. by 1/4 in., and two ditto, 3 ft. by 1/2 in. by 1/4 in.; one moulding, 6 ft. 6 in. by 3/8 in. by 3/8 in.; one frieze panel, 6 ft. 6 in. by 2 in. by 3/8 in.; one cornice moulding 7 ft. by l 3/4 in. by 3/4 in.; and four turned feet, 6 in. by 4 in. in diameter.

Fig. 1912.—Part Horizontal Section of Cupboard Pantry.

CONSTRUCTING

     The framework for the back is put together first; it consists of 4-in. by 3/4-in. framing filled with a 3/8-in. thick panel made up of several widths of stuff, butt-jointed and glued together. A section of the back is shown in Fig. the edges of the framework are tongued to fit in corresponding grooves in the sides, S indicating the side, and C S the corner stile of the back frame. The sides are 3/4 in. thick, and are dovetailed to the carcase at the top and the bottom. An examination of the dovetailing found in drawer fronts and sides will be of assistance in understanding how to arrange the jointing so that it is not apparent on the face view. The division above the drawer is 3/4 in. thick, grooved in the side pieces, and extends between the front corner stiles to the level of the door front, as shown in Figs. 1911 and The drawer is made with a 3/4-in. thick front, dove-tailed to the ends 1/2 in. thick, and back 1/2 in. thick. The bottom is 3/8 in. thick, grooved in the ends and front, and fitted with glued blocks. To enable the drawer to work easily, fillets or runners on which the drawer rides are placed as shown at F in Figs. 1913 and The front of the drawer must project 1/4 in. below the bottom to hide these runners. Two wooden knobs or brass handles are fixed to the drawer, and the drawer can be provided with divisions and light trays as necessary. Pine 1/4 in. thick for the main divisions and 1/8 in. or 3/16 in. for the smaller ones should be used.

Fig. 1913.—Part Vertical Section of Cupboard Pantry Drawer.

Fig. 1914 —Part Section of Cupboard Pantry Drawer, etc.

CUPBOARD

     The door is 7/8 in. thick, with stiles and rails mortised, tenoned, and wedged together. The edges of the framing are moulded and grooved for a panel as shown in Fig. Square-edged framing may be substituted and a moulding afterwards pinned in the opening, but this is not recommended. The panel should be made up of two or three widths of timber, butt-jointed and glued, or the framework may be filled as shown in Fig. where grooved, tongued, and beaded boards 3 in. by 3/8 in. are used, placed vertically. Another method is shown in Fig. the boards being placed diagonally. The other panel consists of perforated zinc or fine gauze, and fits in the rebate of the door framing, a moulded slip S keeping the zinc Z in position, as shown in Fig. The rebate in this part of the door stile is made by cutting away the inside piece left after the panel grooving has been run. The front corner stiles are grooved to the sides as shown in Fig. and mortised into the top and bottom. The folded edges are beaded to relieve the joint. Hang the door with strong brass butts, and furnish it with a knob, lock, and key.

Fig. 1915.—Door with Vertical Panelling.

Fig. 1916.—Door with Diagonal Panelling.

Fig. 1917.—Section of Cornice and Door Rail.

CUPBOARD

     The interior of the cupboard is provided with four shelves, 1 ft. 1 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick. The top shelf should be fixed near the centre of the perforated zinc, so that the two top spaces can be used for fresh meat, etc. The lower shelves can be fitted as required. The cornice has a small moulding to cover the joint with the top (see Fig. and is rebated for a frieze panel 3/8 in. thick, surmounted by a cornice moulding. The mouldings and panel are mitred and keyed at the corners, and strengthened with blocks glued at the angles. When finished, the cornice forms a separate piece from the carcase, so that it can be moved when desired. The four feet are turned in the lathe, and have dowel ends fitting into the carcase bottom and fixed with wedges. A plinth finish can readily be adapted if preferred. This cupboard pantry can easily be converted to a wardrobe if desired by removing the zinc panel and inserting a bevel panel corresponding with the lower one, so that it is desirable to finish the interior in a neat manner.

Fig. 1918.

Fig. 1919.

Figs. 1918 and 1919.—Back and Side Elevations of Kitchen Chair.

WOODEN

     A serviceable chair is shown in elevation by Figs. 1918 and To make a chair of this description, obtain a piece of board about 1 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 3 in.—any thickness will do—and strike out the plan of the seat to the shape shown at Fig. This will be a guide in getting out the rails, and from this the correct bevel to make the blocks 1921 and for mortising the front and back legs to receive the side rails will be arrived at. The material required for making two chairs is 2 ft. 10 in. by 9 in. by 1 1/2 in. for back legs, 6 ft. by 2 1/4 in. by 2 1/4 in. for front legs, 12 ft. by 9 in. by 3/4 in. for seats and rails, and three pieces of hardwood of the shape shown in Fig. each measuring about 1 ft. 8 in. or 1 ft. 9 in. long by 4 1/2 in. or 5 in. broad by 7/8 in. thick, for top rails and slats. Now cut out the back legs; make a pattern and mark out the board (2 ft. 10 in. by 9 in. by 1 1/2 in.) with it, as at Fig. The pattern is made of a piece of 1/2-in. stuff, and is 2 in. broad; when finished, it is simply an arc or piece cut out of a large circle, and has about 1 in. of sweep. The lines on the side (see Fig. show where the mortises are required to be for the back rails; the mortise at A is for the slat rail. Having planed and marked out the board, take a narrow rip saw and cut carefully to the lines, keeping the saw perfectly straight. After sawing out the pieces for the legs, place two together, and plane the round and hollow edge so that they are both alike in shape; then put a mark on each to indicate the outside or inside edge of each pair of legs, and number them so that they may not get mixed. Having planed and paired the legs, mark on lines for the mortises for the back rails, the position of which is shown in Fig. The mortise A requires to be done on the bevel block for the slat rail, on account of its being curved; the other mortises B and C are made straight. In marking the lines for the mortises on the round edge to receive the side rails, it will be observed that the narrow side rail is directly above the back rail. In gauging for the mortises (which, by the way, are all made with a 3/8-in. mortise chisel), the narrow rail may be kept in the centre; but the broad rail should be kept flush with the outside face of the leg, so as to be the farther removed from the broad back rail, and consequently give a longer tenon and make a stronger job. A saw-kerf should be put in the line at D from the outside corner to 3/8 in. past the inside corner on the front edge—that is, where the top rail shoulders against the back leg (see Fig. Now get the pieces of stuff for the front feet, 2 1/4 in. by 2 1/4 in., cut in lengths of 1 ft. 6 in., and square up; then mark lines for the front and side rails off the back legs that have already been marked, the narrow front rail being the same distance from the ground as the narrow back rail. The plan shows where to place the mortises. Before commencing to mortise, make two blocks as shown in Figs. 1921 and To make the block shown in Fig. get a piece of hardwood 1 ft. 2 in. by 4 in. by 1 1/2 in. Set the bevel as shown in Fig. and bevel the piece of wood as at Fig. which is a sectional view of Fig. The wood being truly bevelled, put in two 5/8-in. dowel pins, allowing them to project 1 in. These pins should be square with the bevelled face; they keep the legs from slipping off the block when mortising. The mortise-block, shown at Fig. 1922 fixed to the bench by the holdfast, is a bit of hardwood about 1 ft. by 4 in. by 3 in., with a recess cut across it about 2 1/2 in. deep and 2 in. wide to allow the back leg to lie across it when mortising; lines B Fig. are square with each other, the line B getting the same bevel from D as at Fig. A slot is made at A to receive a wedge or key, which tightens up the leg against the face B when mortising. Having made these blocks, proceed to mortise the legs, taking the front legs first, and mortising for the front rails perfectly straight; then, to mortise for the side rails, lay the leg on the block with the outside of the leg resting against the dowel pins. Lay the rider on top of the leg, and fasten with the holdfast to the bench. When mortising, hold the chisel perfectly straight; this will give the correct bevel in the mortise for the side rail. Having mortised the front legs, turn them to the shape required. It would be better to have the portions of legs A where the mortises are for narrow rails, rounded in the lathe, and not kept square as at the top. Next take up the back legs, and mortise perfectly straight B and C To mortise A lay the leg on the block with round edge to dowel pins, and mortise straight; this will give the bevel in mortise to allow for the sweep of the slat rail. Then, to mortise for the side rails, lay the leg in the recess of the block with the side already mortised against face put a wedge in slot tighten up, and fasten with holdfast E to bench, then hold the chisel perfectly straight, and begin cutting. Having finished mortising, get out the rails. Figs. and 1929 will show the length and breadth to make them, making allowance for tenons. Four broad and six narrow rails should be got out of a 9-in. board, but the rails should be 1/8 in. broader than the length of the mortise, and a nice easy fit, just rubbing against the sides of the mortise the narrow way; for if the tenon is made thicker than the mortise it is apt to split the legs when cramping together. Now proceed to fit up the front legs and cramp home as at Fig. It will be observed that the leg projects about 1/2 in. above the broad rail. This is as it should be; it is what is called the joggle, and is cut off later on. Now take up the back legs, and smooth out with the smoothing plane the lines that were used when marking for mortises. With a round-sole plane clean up the back edge, taking off a chamfer from 1 in. above the broad or seat rail to the top of the leg on both corners; also on the front edge, from 1 in. above the seat rail to the top round the edge, with the smoothing plane inclining more to the inner or mortised side. The slat rails with halved ends should now be made, after which the legs can be fitted up. These rails are made from one of the top rails (see Fig. It is divided into three, and, if only two chairs are made, the third piece is not required. Plane up the edges with the trying plane and bring them to the right breadth; then with the narrow back rail mark lines for the shoulder, as at Fig. and square across the face. Then gauge the thickness of the mortise for the tenon from the back side, and, with a dovetail saw, make a squared line on the face down to the gauge lines for the tenon, then with a spokeshave nicely thumb over the front edge, and glasspaper; saw down lines for the tenon, and the slat is complete.

Fig. 1920.—Chair Seat Framework.

Fig. 1921.—Block for Mortising Front Legs of Chair.

Fig. 1922.—Block and Bench Holdfast used in Mortising Back Legs of Chair.

Fig. 1923.—Chair Top Rail.

Fig. 1924.—Pattern of Back Leg of Chair.

Fig. 1925.—Marking out Back Legs of Chair.

Fig. 1926.—Back Legs of Chair to receive Top Rail.

Fig. 1927.—Section of Block for Mortising Front Legs of Chair.

Fig. 1928.—Rider for Holding Down Chair Leg.

Fig. 1929.—Front Legs of Chair Framed.

Fig. 1930.—Marking Tenon Lines on Seat Rail.

Fig. 1931.—Dovetail Gauge.

Fig. 1932.—Half Pattern of Chair Top Rail.

Now fit the slats into the back legs, together with the other rails, and cramp home. Next take up the top rails and plane up the round side also the edges; then lay the planed side, with edge to saw kerf, on top of the back legs, and with a sharp chisel nicely bed it to the leg; then, keeping the top rail in position, mark a line on the inside of the leg for the depth of dovetail, 5/16 in., using a gauge as shown in Fig. This gauge is simply a piece of wood about 4 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 3/4 in., with the point of a wire nail projecting on the end to mark the line with. Next lift off the top rail and make a dovetail on the end of the leg, as shown at A then lay the top rail with under edge upwards on the bench, and place the end A to the edge of the top rail, and mark the dovetail on the edge with a fine point. Continue these lines up the top rail the same distance as the sunk portion of the leg; then saw the lines and chisel out carefully, and the finished appearance will be as in Fig. Hammer the top rail on the legs about 1 in. or so down, and with a piece of cardboard cut to the pattern shown in Fig. mark one end, then reverse the pattern and mark the other end; take the top rail off the legs, and with a bow saw cut to the lines and trim up any inequalities made in sawing. Then put the top rail on the legs again, and with the holdfast E fasten it to the bench. With the round-sole plane clean up the face, thumbing over the upper edge and round the ends. As these top rails are generally made from sycamore, birch, beech, or other hard wood, they will bear scraping up, which should be done with a sharp scraper. After well glasspapering, take off the top rail and lay it aside. Next, the side rails should be fitted up and cramped home, after which the seats should be jointed and glued; the plan of the seat will give an idea of its size, or the already framed up chair will be a guide. When cutting out the seat, allow about 3/4 in. projection all round; this will give plenty when fitting on. Having jointed the seat, take up the chair, cut off the joggles of the front feet, and level up with a plane, so that the seat will lie on nicely. Clean and glasspaper all round the chair; then plane up the seats if the joints will bear it, and fit them into the back legs, so that the edge of the seat will be flush with them. Then mark the projection of the seat over the frame, which should be about 1/2 in. on the front edge and 3/4 in. on the ends at front; cut to lines, then with the smoothing plane clean up, and thumb over the front edge and ends. Round the corners at the front with compasses set to 1 1/2 in., then glasspaper, and sprig or brad the seat down to the frame. After nailing, make some square blocks about 1 1/2 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 1 1/4 in., split in two from corner to corner with a chisel, and glue to seat and rail on the inside. This is called blocking, and should be done carefully, taking care that the blocks lie close to the seat and the rail. After blocking, bevel the end of the leg from the dovetail, as at A Glue the top rail, and hammer home, using a bit of wood on the top edge to prevent marking. The chairs should now be complete, and ready for staining and polishing. It is usual for a chair of this description to be polished a dark red, using plenty of Bismarck brown in the polish; but a walnut or oak colour may be used if preferred.

Fig. 1933.

Fig. 1934.

Figs. 1933 and 1934.—Side and Front Elevations of Gate-legged Table.

Fig. 1935.—Underneath Plan of Gate-legged Table.

Fig. 1936.—Gate-legged Table Framing.

Fig. 1937.—Joint of Top Rails and Leg.

     Figs. 1933 to 1936 illustrate a gate-legged kitchen table which, when closed, is 2 ft. 6 in. wide by 4 ft. 4 in. long. The leading points in the making are as follow: —The legs and rails should be planed up square to sizes, and the legs set out for mortising. The mortises for the lower rails are of a simple character, the tenons being stubbed in. For the long top rails the mortises and tenons at one end should be as shown at A and at the other end as shown at B Each end of the top rail C is of the form shown at C The two rails F for the drawer have the joints illustrated at D and E the upper rail being dovetailed in the top of the legs. The two gate legs and their rails are stub-mortised and tenoned together. Figs. 1939 and 1940 show how the gate-leg stile is jointed to rails. After the joints are made the whole of the framing should be carefully fitted, and the joints numbered; then the framing should be separated, and the internal parts smoothed off. After the joints are glued and fitted, they should be cramped in position until the glue is dry; odd strips of wood, with a block nailed on each end and a wedge inserted, may be used for this purpose. The top, including the flaps, should be formed of 1 1/2-in. boards, ploughed, tongued, grooved, and glued together. The top and flaps should be planed off true, and the top secured to the rails of the framing by 2 1/2-in. screws driven obliquely from the inside of the rails. The flaps may be attached to the top by 2 1/2-in. wrought-iron back-flap hinges as illustrated at Fig. The top and flaps should be strengthened by 2-in. by 1-in. thicknessing fillets, which are screwed on as indicated at Figs. 1934 and The stiles of the gate legs should be fixed at the bottom end by a pin working in a socket the upper end being secured by a screw sunk through the top rail as in Fig. As the depth of the side rails will not be sufficient for fixing the runners of the drawer, pieces G 1933 and should be added, and to these two runners can be fixed, and also a cross rail; see H and K The drawer front should be carefully fitted between the rails and legs, and the sides and back prepared, the back being made wide enough to extend only as far as the plough groove to receive the bottom. The dove-tailing can then be set out and made. After this the plough grooves for the bottom should be made. Next some 1/2-in. boards should be glued up for the bottom, the edges being chamfered to fit into the plough grooves. To secure the bottom it should be nailed into the lower edge of the back, and have strips underneath fixed to the bottom and the sides, these being secured with glue and planed off flush. A knob or handle should be provided and fixed to the front of the drawer.

Fig. 1938.—Joint of Rails and Leg at Drawer End.

Fig. 1939.—Jointing Gate Leg Stile and Rail.

Fig. 1940.—Pin and Socket of Gate Leg Stile and Rail.

Fig. 1941.

Fig. 1942.

Figs. 1941 and 1942.—Side and End Elevations of Table with Turned Legs.

Fig. 1943.

Fig. 1944.

Figs. 1943 and 1944.—Vertical Cross Sections of Table Top, Drawer, etc.

DETACHABLE WITH

     The kitchen table illustrated in Figs. 1941 and showing side and end views, can be taken apart in several sections. The dimensions given in Figs. 1941 and 1942 are suitable for an ordinary cottage kitchen, but need not be adhered to, as the same construction and dimensions of the several parts are applicable to tables up to 9 ft. by 5 ft. top surface, with the one exception of the legs, which should be increased in size sectionally when the length of the table exceeds 5 ft. The top can be made from sycamore wood, good white deal, or fir, free from knots, sap, and shakes, and can be got in 11-in. widths. White deal or fir is preferable to yellow deal or pine, as it always scrubs clean and white, and does not become discoloured. The wood should be 1 in. in thickness. A fillet 2 in. by 1 in. is mitred at the angles, and screwed on the under side of the top all round the edges, the joint being broken by a bead worked on the fillet. This not only serves to protect the edges of the top, but gives it an appearance of solidity (see Figs. 1943 and The legs may be constructed of white or yellow deal, and they can be turned in accordance with instructions given on pp. 450 to 490, and should be about 3 in. by 3 in. in section. Fig. 1945 shows the mortise and dovetail notch to receive the rails There are four bolts (one in each leg), which should be about 8 in. long and 1/2 in. in diameter; they should have snap-heads, having a slot cut across them with a file, for the purpose of inserting the blade of a screwdriver when turning them either in or out. The long-side rails are also of deal 6 1/2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, grooved on the inside for the buttons for attachment to the top; a hard-wood cleat is fitted into a notch, and well glued and fixed with screws, a hole being bored through it to accommodate the bolt 1946 to The tenon at the end, which is about 1 1/4 in. long by 5/8 in., should fit easily into the leg. The upper cross-rail is ploughed on the inside for buttons, and is dovetailed to drive into the top of the legs; the lower rail has two tenons about 2 1/2-in. long by 5/8 in., Which should be secured permanently to the legs by well gluing; they are made of deal 3 in. wide by 1 1/4 in. thick (see Fig. The centre bearer is about 2 in. by 2 in. in section, and has a lip tenon to fit into the mortise in the long rails at the middle of their lengths, and should be grooved for buttons and made of deal (see Figs. 1944 and

Fig. 1945.—Mortises in Table Leg.

Fig. 1946.—Rail with Slot for Bolt and Cleat.

Fig. 1947.—Table Leg, Rail and Bolt.

Fig. 1948.—Drawer Stop, etc.

KITCHEN

     The runners are 2 in. by 2 in. in section, and are rebated to form a guide for the drawers they are notched to fit over the cleat for the bolt (see Figs. 1947 and A hard-wood drawer stop, about 3/4 in. by 1 in., is screwed into the rebate, as shown in Fig. The front of the drawer measures 4 in. by 1 in., each side 4 in. by 5/8 in., and the back 3 in. by 5/8 in.; they are dovetailed together. The bottoms, which are 1/2 in. thick, are fitted into grooves in the front and sides, and are nailed on to the back. The sides and front should be secured to the bottom by glued blocks underneath, as shown in Figs. 1943 and and the buttons should be of hard wood (oak, beech, or ash), 2 in. long by 1 1/2 in. by 1 in., with lip to fit into grooves in rails; they should be secured to the top with stout brass screws to prevent rusting in. which would occur if iron were used (see Figs. 1943 and The side rails should be fitted into their respective legs, and marked by cutting Roman numbers on the inside with a chisel to correspond, and the holes for the bolts should now be bored. All that is necessary in taking the table apart is to slack the screws with a screwdriver, and, turning the buttons round, disengage them from the rails, lift off the top, take out the bolts, and draw off the united pairs of legs at the ends, leaving the long rails, centre bearer, and runners in separate pieces. The reverse method is adopted in re-erecting the table. The method of jointing here described might also be adopted in making dining tables, kitchen dressers, etc.; the difficulties of moving such articles from house to house would thus be greatly lessened.

Fig. 1949.—Table Leg Jointed to End Cross Rails.

Fig. 1950.—Drawer Runner.

FITTING TO

     The method described below of fitting an extra drawer to a table can be undertaken without any structural alteration, and the extra drawers can be removed at any future time without showing any disfigurement. The drawer passes in and out under the existing rail of the table instead of cutting through it, the runners being fixed sloping inside the rails (see Figs. 1951 and Of course, there are a few cases where this inclined condition would be wholly unsuitable. When the drawer has been pushed in, the front end is raised behind the rail of the table until the drawer is level (see Fig. and held in that position by some simple device, which may take the form of a button or bolt; in any case, the fastening must be strong, as a large proportion of the weight of the drawer and its contents falls on it. When thus closed, the drawer is out of sight, and its privacy can be increased, if desired, by arranging the fastening in a secret manner. The runners can either be made solid by rebating a piece of stuff, or can be formed by screwing two plain pieces together, but the top surfaces must be sufficiently wide to allow the drawer to pass between the legs of the table. Strips, which fit in the rebates of the runners, are screwed on each side of the drawer at the upper edge, as shown in Figs. 1951 and which are sections taken respectively at B B and C C The screws in the runners and strips must be well sunk to avoid trouble in the running of the drawer.

Fig. 1951.—Section of Table showing Drawer Runners.

Fig. 1952.—Section of Table with Drawer partly Opened.

Fig. 1953.—Section of Table with Drawer closed.

KITCHEN WITH

     The table shown in front elevation by Fig. 1956 and in cross-section by Fig. 1957 is a departure from ordinary practice. In many instances the hinged leaf of an ordinary kitchen table, when down, is in the way of anyone sitting at that side of the table. To obviate this difficulty, a new method of using the leaf and of stowing it is here described. The table is constructed in the usual manner, with the rail at the back and ends, and the drawer stretchers at the front. The drawer fronts are, however, raised, which gives them a better appearance. Figs. 1958 and 1959 show the plates required to carry the leaf. The plate, with a slight hook A 1958 and is screwed to the underside of the leaf, and fits into a piece of bent brass By pulling out the table brackets the leaf is rendered immovable. To support the leaf when not in use, another pair of brass plates is screwed to the underside of the drawer slides, and a wooden button is fixed to the drawer or stretcher to secure it firmly. Fig. 1957 shows the method of securing the leaf beneath the table, and also its position when in use.

Fig. 1954.

Fig. 1955.

Figs. 1954 and 1955.—Sections of Drawer and Runner.

Fig. 1956.

Fig. 1957.

Figs. 1956 and 1957.—Elevation of Cross Section of Table with Portable Leaf.

Fig. 1958.

Fig. 1959.

Figs. 1958 and 1959.—Plates for Table Leaf.

EXTENDING

     The top of this extending kitchen table (see Fig. is 4 ft. 6 in. by 4 ft.; and a 2-ft. leaf can be added (see Fig. The frame of the table is made in the usual way, but a plough groove is made on the inside top edge of the side rails in which the 3/8-in. tongues A (see Fig. of the four oak buttons run along when the top of the table, which is in two divisions, is pulled apart. The buttons are glued and screwed to the underside of the table top, and their positions are shown in Fig. which is a plan of the underside of the table. Also, on the underside of each half of the top, two oak runners worked on the dovetail are glued and screwed (see Figs. 1962, 1963, and 1964). These runners slide along slots cut in the top edge of the end rails. The two halves of the table top are held together by brass clips that slide into sockets fixed on each side of the joint C 1963 and 1965); Figs. 1965 to 1967 show the socket and clip. In the edge of one half of the table three 3/8-in. oak dowels Fig. are glued and fit dry into the edge of the other half. The leaf is held in place in the same way, three dowels being glued into one of its edges to correspond with holes in one of the top halves, and three holes being bored in its other edge to correspond with dowels fixed in the other half of the table. Two additional clips are necessary to secure the joint when the leaf is inserted. A stop 1 1/2 in. by 1 in. should be fixed on the underside of each half of the table and cut in between the oak runners (see Fig. to prevent either half being overdrawn. If these stops are fixed with a space of 13 in. between them and the inside of the rail, it will allow the dowels to clear themselves before the joints are closed. The frame and legs may be made of pitchpine varnished, and the top of whitewood; or yellow pine, stained and dull polished, can be used throughout.

Fig. 1960.

Fig. 1961.

Figs. 1960 and 1961.—Elevations of Extending Table without and with Leaf.

Fig. 1962. Leg, Rail, Button, Slides, etc., of Extending Table.

Fig. 1963.—Underside of Extending Table.

Fig. 1964.—End Elevation of Extending Table.

Fig. 1965.—Brass Clip and Socket.

Fig. 1966.—Plan of Socket.

Fig. 1967.—Section of Clip.

LONDON

     In regard to the dresser shown in Fig. Fig. 1969 is a section through the centre showing the general construction and the shape of the shelf brackets. Fig. 1970 shows two half plans, that on the left being above the top drawer rail, and that on the right above the lower drawer rail, the cross rail over the drawers being omitted to show the runner, etc., beneath. Fig. 1971 is an enlarged detail of the upper end of the front legs, showing in full lines the lower drawer rail B and edge of runner and the top rail C with dovetail. The dotted lines indicate the tenons and haunching of the end rails Fig. 1972 is an isometric drawing of the top of a back leg, full lines indicating the back rail and the drawer runner and guide, and dotted lines the end rail and the various mortises and tenons. Fig. 1973 is a cross section through one of the bearers F and top G showing the method of fixing the latter by buttons Fig. 1974 illustrates the usual manner of cutting two brackets from a 10-in. board. The dimensions given can of course be varied to suit circumstances, but 7 ft. 9 in. is the usual height of dressers for ordinary kitchens, and 6 ft. 6 in. a suitable width. Spruce deal is employed throughout, except for the drawer knobs, which are of mahogany.

Fig. 1968.

Fig. 1969.

Figs. 1968 and 1969.—Front Elevation and Section of London Dresser.

Fig. 1970.

Fig. 1970.—Plan of London Dresser.

Fig. 1971.—Front Leg of London Dresser.

Fig. 1972.—Back Leg of London Dresser.

MAKING

     This dresser is usually made in two parts —the bottom containing the drawers and cupboards, and the top holding the shelves, which are made to fit tightly between the top of the dresser and the ceiling, being housed 1/4 in. into the former. A wall hook is fixed under the centre of each shelf, two hooks being fixed above the cover boards, should it not reach to the ceiling. The two back legs are square, and the two front ones tapered as shown. The top rail is dovetailed into the legs as at C and the drawer rail framed with a bare-face stump tenon and bevel shoulder as at The end rails D are stump-tenoned into the front legs, and mitre tenoned with the back rail into the back legs; the tenons are barefaced, with the shoulders inside. The drawer runners K are made wide enough to overhang the drawer sides 3/4 in., and are tenoned into the front and back rails as shown in Figs. 1969 and 1972, the guide pieces L being screwed on square with the front after putting together the carcase. The cross bearers, rebated for buttons (see Fig. are dovetailed into the top and back rails, while the potboard rails M are mitre tenoned in a similar manner to the top rails, the cross bearers N being housed and secured by nails. The two end rails and the back should have a 3/8-in. groove cut on the inside, 3/4 in. from the top edge, for buttons. The division rails between the drawers are tenoned through the front rails and wedged. The ends are put together first, and when set the division rails are glued square into the lower front rail, which latter is inserted into the end leg square. The runners are next put in and glued, then the back and potboard rails are fixed in position. Close up by driving on the other framed end, after which attach the cramps and leave them on until the work is dry. The top rail is inserted in the dovetails and the divisions are wedged in tight, the cross and potboard bearers being cut in, after which the carcase is cleaned off, the drawers are fitted, and the guides screwed on. The drawers must be made 1/2 in. less in depth than the carcase, 1/2-in. blocks being glued in at the backs to act as stops. The top is made of two 9-in. by 1 3/4-in. boards tongued and glued, tried up on the top side, traversed for the bearers, and gauged to the proper thickness at the front and for 4 in. at the ends. The front edge is screwed to the top rail and the remainder buttoned. The potboard is cut in and nailed to the bearers, the size being found by standing the dresser on the board and marking round the legs, after which the front edge is put to the legs in place and the exact length of the bevel part marked off. Cut tight and enter one end at a time. The brackets A for the shelves are cut to the shape shown in Fig. If many are to be done, one should be carefully marked and cut out first and used as a template to mark the remainder. The cut is sawn down each end with a half-rip saw, and the turns with a compass saw which is afterwards run down the other cuts. Fig. 1974 shows for clearness two distinct cuts, but one only is necessary. The plate grooves in the shelves are 1 1/2 in. from the front edge, and are made with a rebate plane, the ends of the shelves being housed 3/8 in. into the brackets, notched back 1/4 in., and nailed through. The skirting P and the cornice rail are let in solid, and nailed on. The cover board may be simply cut over the top ends and nailed, or it may be dovetailed, the ends being covered by the return cornice, which is not attached until the dresser is fixed. The shelves are next placed on the top, and the ends of the brackets marked around, and after the housing is cut it is ready for fixing.

Fig. 1973.—Securing Dresser Top.

Fig. 1974.—Cutting out Dresser Brackets.

Fig. 1975.

Fig. 1976.

Figs. 1975 and 1976.—Front Elevation and Section of Scotch Dresser.

Fig. 1977.—Horizontal Sections of Scotch Dresser.

SCOTCH

     Figs. and 1977 show the elevation, vertical section, and sectional plan, to a scale of 3/4 in. to a foot, of a closed Scotch dresser, consisting of two separate and complete pieces of framing, the upper part comprising a plain cupboard 9 in. deep, with matchlined back, three shelves, and a pair of glazed sliding doors surmounted by an ogee cornice; the lower part being a chest of nine varied drawers, with flush chamfered fronts, locks, and drop brass handles, a planted plinth, a matchboard back, and a 1 1/2-in. solid top 22 in. wide reeded on the edge. The plan is divided into two halves, that on the right hand being a section through the lower drawers, that on the left a section through the cupboard above. The dotted lines show the parts above and below the planes of section, and the top and plinth are indicated by the outer full line. Fig. 1978 is an enlarged detail at the top end of the chest, showing the method of fixing the front rail, the drawer tilter, and the button for fastening the top. Fig. 1979 is a sketch of the same parts, and shows also how the drawer divisions are fixed by means of a dovetail tapered groove; the dotted lines indicate the framed division. Fig. 1980 is the end of one of the divisions, showing the tapered dovetail. Fig. 1981 is a sketch of the lower end of the cupboard, showing door and slider beads, which are of 5/16-in. oak. A dust fillet is grooved in each side. Fig. 1982 shows the upper end of the side, and indicates how the top of the case is dovetailed to the side. Fig. 1983 shows a portion of the edge of the dresser top, and Fig. 1984 shows a section of the cornice and cover board. The same letters are used to indicate the same parts throughout, and are thus explained: A the back, C drawer backs, D drawer fronts, E tilting fillet, F top rail, G drawer divisions, H vertical divisions, I dust-board, J drawer bottom, K cover board, L top of cupboard, S side of chest, S S side of cupboard, T the dresser top, W bottom of cupboard, X angle blocks, V drawer stops.

Fig. 1978.—Framework under Dresser Top.

Fig. 1979.—Carcase of Scotch Dresser.

Fig. 1980.—End of Dresser Division.

MAKING

     A few hints as to the construction may not be out of place, but quantities need not be given, as these will be learned readily from the full-sized drawings that will have to be made from the accompanying scale drawings. It is assumed that all stuff is jointed up, planed, and gauged to a thickness, with the exception of dust boards, drawer bottoms, and matchlining, which need only be planed on one side and mulleted to fit. All the horizontal rails and shelves, in both cases, are of one length between the shoulders; therefore they can all be struck over at once. Set out a pair from the rod or drawing, allowing the extra for sinking at each end. Place one at the bottom, arrange all the divisions G—the two tops, two bottoms, and shelves—in consecutive order, lay the other above all, and square the shoulder lines over; remove the shelves and square over a line 1/4 in. farther out at each end for the housing; gauge to a width, the lowest shelf being kept narrower to allow of cups hanging, with a quarter notch at each front, and they will be finished.

Fig. 1981.—Corner of Dresser Cupboard.

Fig. 1982.—Top End of Cupboard Side.

CUPBOARD, ETC., OF

     The top and bottom of the cupboard will require 3/4 in. extra at each end for dovetails, which should be marked as shown at Fig. gauge to width of sides less 5/8 in. for back, with two grooves for sliders, and one other in the bottom, 1 1/2 in. from back edge, for plate strip; this will complete the upper carcase. The cupboard sides are squared off to length, rebated for the back, and housed 1/4 in. deep, stopped in front; dovetail the ends as shown at Fig. plough for the dust fillets, plough the shelves for plate slips, and knock together; square and fix the back, brad the shelves from top sides, clean off, and fix the cornice. Then all is ready for fitting the doors. These are made of full 1-in. stuff, stiles and top rails 3 in. wide, bottom rails 4 in., rebated 1/4 in. for glass, chamfered and put together with mortise and tenon. The top and bottom edges are ploughed with 5/16-in. groove for the sliders, and the doors are arranged to slide with 1/8-in. clearance between them; a 1/8-in. bead glued on the back of the outside meeting stile fills the void when closed. For the lower one, mark the dovetails on the top rail F and mortises for vertical divisions, as at H pair with second and third long divisions, and square them over. Square these divisions 5/16 in. longer at each end, and mark for 3/8-in. plough groove at inside edge. The length of the cut division is taken between the mortises, the inner ends are tenoned to upright divisions, the outer ends housed 5/16 in. into sides. The bottom is housed in solid 5/16 in. and nailed through the sides. The back division rails are cut off to the same neat length as the front. The sides S are set out in pairs, the divisions, etc., marked on front edges in pencil, top and floor line squared off; the housings struck over from front edge, with scriber, stopping them 2 1/2 in. back to form the dovetail (see Fig. gauge the rebate for the back lining, sink the housings, and fit the runners in; cut the dovetail socket slightly tapering, as shown, then drive each division into its place, and mark the dovetail and cut as at Fig. When all are cut, drive in, enter the back divisions flush with rebate, and mark shoulders of drawer runners E, which should be of oak or beech; cut a tenon at each end of these to fit plough groove, knock all in, take length of dust-boards and cut in tight. Fit dovetail of top rail, knock asunder, take a smooth shaving off each part, and glue division ends, first inserting intermediate divisions; enter the bottom and the top rail, nail and square front, brace it, drive in runners, dust-boards, and back divisions, and skew-nail the latter to sides; flush off shoulders of runners, nail on the back, square the carcase. Flush off the front, and fix the drawer guides square from it and parallel to each other; mitre round the plinth and fix with angle blocks.

Fig. 1983.—Moulded Edge of Dresser Cornice.

Fig. 1984.—Section of Dresser Top.

Fig. 1985.—Sideboard Dresser.

SCOTCH AND

     Next fit in the drawer fronts, letting them finish hand-tight; number and cut backs to match, cut off square, and plough sides and fronts, the sides 1/4 in. deep, fronts 5/16 in.; cut sides for dovetail sockets in pairs and fit to fronts, glue up, insert the bottoms, and block square. When the glue is dry, fit in, stop as shown at v with oak stops, end grain to the front, and flush off fronts; pencil a line 1 in. on face and 3/16 in. on edge, and chamfer all round. Fit locks and handles. Fasten on the top by screwing front rail and buttoning all round inside, and clean off top side and reed the edges. Secure the two parts together with three 1 1/2-in. No. 12 screws through the bottom

SIDEBOARD WITH

     The leading dimensions of the sideboard dresser shown in Fig. 1985 are given in Figs. 1986 to 1988, and the main features of the construction are as follow: Having cut the pieces to dimensions, they should all be planed true. Then the legs should be turned to pattern and set out for mortising, the rails being marked for the tenons. The housings in the legs should be made to receive the ends of the curved rails, but need only be about 3/8 in. deep. When all the joints are made, the whole framework should be fitted together. Then the curved rails should be prepared and fitted, and the joints of the rails and legs can be glued together and further secured by a few screws or nails inserted obliquely from the inside. The nosing N should next be prepared, and should be mitred at each front corner M. Where the back rail O meets it may be stop-halved, and the cross bearers, one of which is shown at can be dovetail-halved. The whole of these parts should next be nailed into the top of the legs, driving the nails in obliquely so that they hold in dovetail fashion. Reference to the illustrations given on p. 133 will show clearly what is meant by this. Next prepare the top, which can be secured by screwing upwards from the under side of the bearers and rails. The pot-board must be marked out and cut so as to fit accurately round the legs. The sides and shelves are grooved together, the top being allowed to project over the front and ends, so as to form a member of the cornice moulding (see Fig. This moulding must be mitred and fixed after the top is secured.

Fig. 1986.

Fig. 1987.

Fig. 1988.

Figs. 1986 to 1988.—Elevations and Vertical Section of Sideboard Dresser.

Fig. 1989.—Sideboard Dresser Framework.

Fig. 1990.—Sideboard Dresser Door.

DOORS AND OF

     The two doors should be made of pieces of board sufficiently wide, and clamped at each end as shown at Fig. the clamps being secured by grooving, tonguing, and gluing. When the glue is dry the surfaces should be planed off true. Then the pieces forming the marginal parts should be prepared and glued on to the boards. The two main parts forming the door are shown separately at Fig. The two doors should be hung in position with 2 1/4-in. brass butt hinges. In constructing the drawers, the front, two sides, and back can all be dovetailed together. The sides and front will require ploughing to receive the bottom, or a ploughed fillet may be used. After the joints of the drawers have been glued together, the parts forming the margin may be glued on in a similar manner to that adopted when preparing the door.

Fig. 1991.

Fig. 1992.

Figs. 1991 and 1992.—Side and Front Elevations of Kitchen Waggon.

MATERIALS FOR

     Figs. 1991 and 1992 show in elevation a useful kitchen waggon, which can be made of common mahogany and polished, or of pine and deal stained and varnished, or painted and grained. The following quantity of timber is required: Two front pillars, 3 ft. 7 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 2 1/2 in.; two back pillars, 3 ft. 7 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 1 1/2 in.; two shelves, 4 ft. 3 in. by 1 ft. 7 in. by 3/4 in.; one top, 4 ft. 3 in. by 1 ft. 7 in. by 3/4 in.; one back top panel, 4 ft. by 11 in. by 1/2 in.; one moulding, 5 ft. 6 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 1 in.; three back rails and two front rails, 3 ft. 10 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; six end rails, 1 ft. 4 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; two front corner brackets, 7 in. by 3 1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; two end brackets or supports to back panel, 1 ft. 5 in. by 5 in. by 1/2 in.; one front span rail, 3 ft. 9 in. by 3 in. by 3/8 in.; two end span rails, 1 ft. 3 in. by 2 in. by 3/8 in., and two 1 ft. 3 in. by 4 in. by 3/8 in.

Fig. 1993.—Pillar of Kitchen Waggon.

Fig. 1994.—Centre Shelf at Side of Waggon.

Fig. 1995.—Back Bottom Part of Waggon.

MAKING

     The two front corner pillars are turned from a square section to Fig. Mortises to take the several rails, and a stump tenon at the top, are provided. The lower ends are rounded, and, if desired, castors can be added. The bottom and central shelves are supported by the end and back rails (see Figs. and and are also tenoned into the pillars. The face edges of the rails and shelves are moulded as in Fig. The back rails are moulded on the front side, as shown in Fig. and for the end rails a corresponding moulding is worked. A span rail, finished with sweep work, is fixed under the lowest shelf, both at the front and back. This is cut in and fixed with glued blocks. The waggon top is 3/4 in. thick, and has a moulded edge to correspond with the shelves. At the back, it fits flush with the back top rail (see Fig. so that the panel can be screwed to the rail. The panel is fret cut (see Fig. and is supported by two end brackets, or supports, dowelled and glued to the top. A moulding, 1 1/2 in. by 1 in., rebated to the panel, gives the necessary finish, the overhang at each end being the same as for the shelves. Ornamented corner brackets may be fixed to the front and ends, below the top rails. The shelves and tops are best made by glue-jointing several narrow widths of timber together, and, when dry, cleaning up the whole width at one operation. They are then cut to size, and the article is complete.

Fig. 1996.—Centre Shelf at Front of Waggon.

Fig. 1997.—Back Top Part of Waggon.

CEILING

     A simple clothes-rack is made with two end pieces as shown in Fig. each of which is formed of two pieces of 3-in. by 1-in. deal halved together at right angles to one another. The horizontal piece should be about 2 ft. 3 in. long, and the upright one 1 ft. 9 in. long. Four 1-in. holes are bored through these end pieces (see Fig. and round rods fitting into these holes form the rack; the length of the rods is regulated by the length of rack required. To fix this kind of rack, two single-sheave pulleys are screwed into the ceiling, care being taken to ensure that they have a good hold in the joists. The pulleys should be in a line running parallel with the fireplace, and at such a distance from it as to lie in the centre line of the rack. They should also be at such a distance apart as to well balance the rack when it is loaded. If the rack or the rods of the rack are 10 ft. long, the pulleys should be about 6 ft. apart, or as near to that as the joists will permit, because it is necessary that the pulleys should be screwed into the joists, or the rack, when loaded with clothes, will fall. A double-sheave pulley must be screwed into the joist near that side or corner of the room which it is most convenient to work the rack from, and a cleat hook plugged to the wall immediately under it.

PUTTING

     Put the rack together by placing the rods in the holes in the end pieces, then pass the ends of some fairly strong sashcord through the double-sheave pulley, one end over each wheel, and also over the single pulleys. Fix one end of the cord round the top rod (in the top hole) close to the end piece, and the other end round the same rod, but close to the opposite end piece; and end pieces must be so arranged on the rods as to make the cords hang vertically when the rack is down. The cord can then be cut off to the right length so that the rack will always wind up parallel. A knot is tied at the end of the cord, and the job is finished. The single pulleys should be screwed in so that the wheels are on the same plane as the double pulley; if this is not done, the cord will be constantly breaking, besides being apt to run off the wheels. The rack, if made 10 ft. long, will give a hanging space of nearly 40 ft., and if the end pieces are 6 ft. apart the clothes may be hung on each side of them, thus preventing undue strain on the rods.

Fig. 1998.—End Piece of Clothes-rack.

Fig. 1999.—Ornamental End Piece.

IMPROVED

     An end piece of a more elaborate pattern is shown in Fig. it looks well if made of 1 1/2-in. pitchpine, the grain of the centre piece running vertically and of the two wings horizontally, the latter being fixed to the former with mortise and tenon as shown by dotted lines. It can be made of any size required, but the top rod should not be more than 2 ft. over the three rods at the bottom. This rack is fixed in the same manner as the first, but the cord is passed through a hole bored for the purpose down through the top of the end piece at B (see Fig. This hole is countersunk inside the hole C to receive the knotted end of the cord, so that when the top rod is in position the knot of the cord is out of sight, this being a much neater arrangement than that previously described.

LARGER

     The larger rack illustrated in Fig. 2000 consists of two side pieces 4 in. by 1 1/2 in., two end pieces 4 in. by 1 1/4 in., and the necessary number of round rods each 1 in. in diameter. In the diagram seven rods are shown, and these rods, with the two sides give a hanging space of 72 ft. if the rack is 8 ft. long. To fix such a rack, screw four single-sheave pulleys into the joists, as at and these pulleys must form a parallelogram of such a size that the cords can be brought down vertically from each pulley and fixed either to the sides D or to the ends F of the rack: either sides or ends will do. In the centre of this parallelogram two double-sheave horizontal pulleys must be screwed on, as at H and in the corner or side of the room from which the rack has to be worked an ordinary double-sheave pulley must be screwed, as at J Pass a length of cord through the single pulley round both of the wheels in the nearest horizontal pulley down over the pulley and fix the ends to one end of the rack, one at each side. Pass a second length of cord up over pulley down through pulley and fix it to the other ends of the rack. A third length of cord must now be passed up through the double pulley one end through each wheel, and the several ends tied one to each loop at K and formed by the first two cords. The two cords first inserted are then adjusted for length, so that the rack may hang level and draw up straight. It must not be forgotten that the pulleys etc., must all line towards the centre pulleys H, and that the cords must all drop to the rack from the outside of the pulleys etc. Instead of using the two pulleys a four-sheave pulley may be used; but the method already described is simpler to rig up, and makes a stronger job. A double-sheave pulley, as used at and a single two-wheel horizontal pulley, as used at are shown in Figs. 2002 and the one screws into the ceiling and the other is screwed not into but upon the ceiling.

Fig. 2000.—Large Clothes-rack.

Fig. 2001.—Pulleys and Cords for Fixing large Clothes-rack.

Fig. 2002.—Double-sheave Pulley.

Fig. 2003.—Single Two-wheel Horizontal Pulley.

WORKING AND

     A good method of working a heavy rack is by a windlass This consists of an iron rod M fixed vertically in suitable bearings in one corner of the room, the top end being as close to the ceiling as possible. A barrel made of wood, about 1 ft. long by 6 in. in diameter, is fixed on this bar near the top, and on the bottom of the bar, which should be about 3 ft. 6 in. from the floor, is fixed a cog-wheel O of about the same diameter as the barrel. A short spindle with worm wheel R is fixed so as to engage with the cog-wheel The pulleys H are not required if the rack is to be worked by a windlass. One end of each of the four cords is fixed to the rack, one under each pulley etc., as before; the cords T are then taken direct to the barrel, where their free ends are now securely nailed, the rack being adjusted by means of the cords supporting it, as before described. In this arrangement the cords will pass over the pulleys all in one direction, and the pulleys must stand in a straight line towards the windlass. The advantages gained by this method of fixing a large rack are that it can be wound up or left at any intermediate height, and it does not require fastening; there are no loose ends of cords hanging about, whether the rack is up or down; and the heaviest rack will work easily if the bearings of the windlass are kept properly oiled.

Fig. 2004.—Windlass for Working Clothes-rack.

Fig. 2005.—Spindle and Worm of Windlass.

HALL FURNITURE.

SHELF FOR

THE dimensions of the shelf bracket illustrated in elevation and plan by Figs. 2006 to 2008 are: Length, 2 ft. 10 in.; width, 9 3/4 in.; and height, 2 ft. 5 in. The two supports, seen in Figs. 2006 and are cut from 5/8-in. stuff and finished to 1/2 in. thick, and set out as shown in Fig. The scrollwork is cut with a band saw, the rough edges being afterwards cleaned with a spokeshave, file, and sandpaper. Alternative designs for the supports are given in Figs. 2010 to Two rails, 2 in. by 1/2 in., with chamfered edges, connect the supports, being let into them and fixed with 1-in. No. 10 screws. The shelf is finished to 9 in. by 5/8 in. and fixed to each support with 1 1/2-in. No. 10 screws, and surrounded by a moulding, shown in section in Fig. The moulding is fixed with cut brads, and mitred at the corner joint to return the shelf ends. The top is covered with fancy oilcloth, fixed with thin glue. The shelf bracket is fixed to the wall by screws driven through the rails into wooden plugs fixed in the wall, the support being cut away to fit over the skirting. The following wood is required: 5 ft. 6 in. by 2 in. by 1/2 in.; 2 ft. 10 in. by 9 in. by 3/4 in. (to finish 5/8 in.); and 2 ft. 10 in. by 9 in. by 5/8 in. (to finish 1/2 in.). Pine is a suitable wood to use, and looks well if finished by staining in imitation of walnut. Fig. 2008 is a plan of the bracket complete.

Fig. 2006.

Fig. 2007.

Fig. 2008.

Figs. 2006 to 2008.—Front and End Elevation and Plan of Shelf Bracket.

Fig. 2009.—Marking out Shelf Bracket Supports.

HALL WITH AND

     Mahogany or oak is a suitable wood with which to construct the hat- and coat-rail mirror illustrated by Fig. care being taken to select dry material. The two rails R are 3 ft. by 3 in. by 1 in., with chamfered edges. The two uprights U are 1 ft. 6 in. by 3 in. by 1 in. over the shoulders, and are tenoned and wedged into the two rails, the edges being chamfered to match the rails. In the opening thus formed, a piece of silvered plate glass, which should have bevelled edges, is now placed, the rebate to receive this being formed by gluing and bradding a strip of wood 1 in. wide Fig. along the uprights and rails; the thickness of the strip must be determined by the thickness of the glass used, 3/8 in. additional being allowed to take a board B 1/4 in. thick to protect the glass. Instead of using these strips, the rebate may be ploughed out of the rails and uprights; but the former method is easier, and quite as effective. The four corner ornaments C O are used to strengthen and finish the outer corners, and are set 3/8 in. on from the face edge; cut them with a band saw, glue in position, and afterwards screw them from the back. The top ornament T O is 5/8 in. thick, set back from the face edge, and may be of any desired shape; a piece of carving may with advantage be substituted. Five pegs for hats and seven hooks for coats are to be screwed to the rails; good strong brass hooks and pegs should be used, as they last longer and afford a good support. The hat pegs H P are put along the top rail at 8-in. centres, the coat hooks P being placed along the bottom rail at 5 1/2-in. centres. The screw-holes for the pegs and hooks having been set out, the woodwork should be polished before the article is fixed. Four strong brass plates B P are used to fix it to the wall. These should be cut out of 1/16-in. sheet brass. The wall must be plugged for the fixing screws or nails (see p. 251). If mahogany has been used, the work should be french-polished; but if made of oak, it would. look well cleaned up, rubbed over with wax, and left dull. The glass for the mirror had better be bought, of the required size, ready silvered and bevelled.

Fig. 2010.

Fig. 2011.

Fig. 2012.

Figs. 2010 to 2012.—Shelf Bracket and Supports.

Fig. 2013.—Edge Moulding on Shelf Bracket.

SMALL

     The small hall table shown by Fig. 2016 may be made of bass wood or American whitewood, or any similar soft wood. The number and size of pieces required can be ascertained from Figs. 2017 and They should be faced true, and gauged and planed to thickness, after which the curves should be marked out. The most satisfactory way to do this is to make templates of stout paper or thin cardboard, because, as the parts of the table are symmetrical, a template made for one half would suffice for the other half. The curved parts should next be sawn out. Some of the straight parts which join the curves should be finished with the chisel and a small thumb-plane or spokeshave; generally this will be found more satisfactory than trying to finish with a file. The large curves can be finished with a spokeshave, and some of the small curves with a file, or these may be worked by overhand paring with a keen chisel and finishing with No. 1 glasspaper. The thumb moulding shown round the edge of the top (see Figs. 2017 and may be worked by means of a scratch tool.

HALL

     The two standards are connected by means of a rail, and have mortises that allow a whole-thickness tenon to pass through, and they are finally secured by wedges. The top on its under-side is grooved to a depth of about 1/4 in., so as to receive the top ends of the standards. The top and the standards can be fixed rigidly together by gluing a few angle blocks to them. The back piece and the top are secured by glue, and by inserting a few screws from the under-side of the top. The two pieces marked A should be fixed to the standards and top by angle blocks glued in the inner angles, and by driving in a few small sprigs or screws after the glue has set. If there is a skirting or plinth projecting beyond the wall where the table has to stand, the top should overhang at the back a little more than the thickness of the skirting, as shown by the dotted lines at B

Fig. 2014.

Fig. 2015.

Figs. 2014 and 2015.—Front and Side Elevations of Hall Mirror.

Fig. 2016.—Hall Table.

Fig. 2017.

Fig. 2018.

Figs. 2017 and 2018.—Front and Side Elevations of Hall Table.

Fig. 2019.—Mirror fixed with Moulding.

HALL

     A small bevelled mirror can be fixed to the back either by recessing the latter or cutting a hole right through and fixing a piece of moulding round. A simpler and quite as effective a method is to obtain the glass mirror with bevelled edge and buy a piece of moulding C ready prepared. This can be rebated at the back, mitred round, and fixed in position with a few round-headed brass screws, or the screws may be inserted from the back, as shown in Fig. The drawer has the front side and back dovetail-grooved together, the bottom fitting into plough grooves in the sides and front or into a ploughed fillet. The latter should be grooved and sprigged to the sides and front. The runner D is rebated so as to receive the fillet, which is glued and sprigged on to the sides of the drawer, as shown at E Fig. 2022 shows a plan of the table. A suitable brass handle should be obtained and screwed on, and the table may be finished either by simply varnishing, or by staining and varnishing.

Fig. 2020.—Hall Table Drawer.

Fig. 2021.—Hall Table Drawer Runner.

HALL WITH

     The hall table shown in elevation by Figs. 2023 and 2024 may be constructed in black walnut or mahogany. The legs are of 1 1/2-in. square stuff, tapered off equally all round, above and below the drawer rails, the reduction being to 3/4 in. square at the top, and to 1 in. at the neck of the foot (see Fig. The table top, which is shaped as shown in the half plan is of 1-in. stuff. Fig. 2027 is a half horizontal section with the top removed; the table top is simply cut around the legs and notched into them 1/4 in., as shown in Figs. 2028 and The front edge is double chamfered, but the ends, which finish flush with the legs, are left square. The bottom, of 3/4-in. stuff, is treated similarly, except that it is finished flush and square all round. The back rail, 3/4 in. thick, is stub-tenoned into the legs as shown in Fig. and the end rails, 1/2 in. thick, are grooved in 5/16 in. all round as shown in Figs. and The front rail is cut away to provide openings for the drawers, from the bottom edge to within 1/2 in. of the top edge; this portion is checked into the legs 1/4 in. at the ends, and glued and screwed to the top. The central part is tongued into the bottom, and two small brackets are glued to it underneath the overhanging part of the table top. A cross rail T is dovetailed into the back and front rails, and prevents the drawers tilting up when drawn out. Guides for the drawers, shown at G 2028 and are nailed to the bottom, and should be fixed square with the front, the drawers being made 1/16 in. narrower at the back than at the front.

Fig. 2022.—Plan of Hall Table.

Fig. 2023.

Fig. 2024.

Figs. 2023 and 2024.—Elevations of Hall Table with Shelves.

Fig. 2025.—Bottom of Hall Table Leg.

Figs. 2026 and 2027.—Section and Half Plan of Hall Table.

Fig. 2028.—Back Leg Joints.

Fig. 2029.—Detail of Hall Table Front Leg.

Fig. 2030.—Vertical Section of Hall Table

Fig. 2031.—Dovetail Joint for Stretcher.

SHELVES OF

     The shelf rails, of 5/8-in. stuff, are stub-tenoned into the legs, the stretcher being dovetailed as illustrated in Fig. The shelf (shown in half plan in Fig. is cut tight in between the legs and cleaned off flush with the outside. A small shelf, 4 1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick, runs round the back and ends of the table, resting on brackets sunk into the legs. A half plan of this shelf is shown in Fig. and details of the shaped rail are given in Fig. The chamfer on the edge is worked into a solid mitre at C In making this joint it will be best to work the rebate in the end pieces, and fix first by dowelling on to the legs; then shoot the back piece tightly between the shoulders whilst it is in the square, cut the rebate, and cut and shape the edge.

Fig. 2032.—Half Plan of Table Top Shelf.

Fig. 2033.—Part of Shelf showing Joint Line.

OTHER OF

     The perforated panels in the back and ends are best constructed as shown in Figs. 2034 and using a straight top rail 1 1/2 in. wide and a straight bottom rail 3 in. wide, cut out with a series of 2-in. seats for the pillars and mortised with a 1/8-in. chisel. The pillars are cut out separately to a pattern, and a tenon is formed on each end. They may of course be cut out of the solid with a fret-saw, but will then be much weaker. If constructed as described here they should be glued up and treated as a solid panel, being grooved into the legs, and glued to the table top at the back, while the ends are tongued into a 3/16-in. groove across the top. The plinth, first shaped and finished off, is glued and screwed to the shelf, and the knee-rails, of 1/3-in. by 2 1/2-in. stuff, are glued and blocked to the bottom, and sunk 1/4 in. into the legs. The drawers are dovetailed, the fronts being of 3/4-in. stuff, and the backs and sides of 1/2-in. and the bottoms of 3/8-in. stuff; these are grooved in and blocked. The fronts are sunk 1/4 in. below the face of the legs and 1/8 in. below the face edge of the bottom. Fig. 2037 gives an enlarged view of the front leg and drawer rails, Fig. 2038 a section of the table top, and Fig. 2039 a half plan of the bottom shelf. All the parts should be fitted together complete, then taken to pieces, and all except the outside surfaces of the legs bodied in with polish, glued up, cleaned off where necessary, and the polishing finished.

Fig. 2034.

Fig. 2035.

Figs. 2034 and 2035.—Elevation and Section of Perforated Panel.

Fig. 2036.—Side Elevation of Drawer.

Fig. 2037.—Hall Table Drawer Rails, etc.

Fig. 2038.—Section of Hall Table Top.

ARTISTIC WITH

     The umbrella stands shown by Figs. 2040 to 2043 may be effectively made of light oak stained brown. The front and back A should be 3/4-in. stuff, preferably without joint. They should be fastened together with four fine panel pins, before cutting to get them both the same size. The plinth is in two parts, B and The part B should be of 7/8-in. stuff, cut to the size required, gauged on 2 1/2 in. all round, and cut out in the centre part to receive the zinc drip pan. This drip pan is shown in section at Now work the mould round. The piece of 7/8-in. stuff, is got out in two lengths; after working the mould, mitre it round, and screw and glue it fast to the piece Then set out the front and back, bore for spindles E and buttons and put these parts together. The front and back are fixed to the plinth by screws, but boring through the plinth into the front and back for three or four dowels will make the job much stronger. The turned buttons hide the screws that fasten the spindles. A at G is cut to continue the line of the shield. Fix the turned crush balls H with two screws in the plinth.

Fig. 2039.—Half Plan of Bottom Shelf.

Fig. 2040.—Front Elevation of Umbrella Stand.

UMBRELLA IN

     The size of the umbrella stand shown by Figs. 2045 and 2046 is 2 ft. by 1 ft. It is preferably made of ash and varnished, but may be of oak, mahogany, beech, or any hard wood. The materials required are four pieces for the legs, each 2 ft. 6 in. long and 1 3/4 in. square when trued up, which should be turned to the pattern given in Fig. Get two pieces 1 ft. 11 in. long, and true up to 1 1/4 in. square; these are for the longer bars, as shown in Fig. For the smaller bars three pieces 10 1/2 in. long each and of the same scantling as the longer bars will be required. Turn all these to the design illustrated, making sure the shoulders are left the proper length, and taking care to turn 3/4-in. lugs on to each end of sufficient length that, when cut to a mitre as in Fig. they will meet and form the joint in the holes that are to be bored in the legs to receive them, as will be afterwards explained. It is perhaps better to turn these lugs a trifle too long—say, fully 2 in.—and trim them to fit afterwards. The shoulders of the centre bar must be rather longer than those of the end bars. This completes the turning portion. Next get four pieces for the bottom; two of them will be 1 ft. 11 in. long and two of them 10 1/2 in. long: they will be 3 1/2 in. deep and 1 in. thick. On the ends of these must be cut the lugs that are to go into the holes as before mentioned. The holes in the legs are made with a 3/4-in. bit, and the lugs that go into them are turned on to the ends of the turned pieces and driven into them. The lugs on the bottom pieces will have to be done by hand, as they cannot be easily turned. In putting the parts together, care must be taken that corresponding parts are exactly the same size, so as to have symmetry. In the case of the bottom pieces, sink a shallow seat in the legs for about 1/8 in., in order that the piece may sit in it to that depth, and so make a cleaner joint with less danger of warping; but care must be taken to allow 1/4 in. on each length extra. When all the parts are made and fitted properly, they may be glued up into position. All that now remains to be made is the tray for the bottom, which should be a plain, square, shallow tray of zinc with a wire edge. This is merely laid into the bottom, and is supported on small bits of wood nailed on to the insides near the bottom. The projecting cheeks of the legs inside will not allow the tray to be made quite square, but the bottom of the tray, by being made slightly slanting, will cause it to fit down without any trouble. To obtain a perfect fit without any trouble, a tray should be made with double corners to fit the legs exactly. There being no wooden bottom, nothing remains but to varnish the stand. First give the whole work two coats of good glue size, which will give a solid appearance to the varnish. When the size is properly dry, the work should be sandpapered, and then two coats of varnish will finish all.

Fig. 2041.

Fig. 2042.

Figs. 2041 and 2042.—Front and Side Elevations of Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2043.—Front Elevation of Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2044.—Cross Section of Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2045.

Fig. 2046.

Figs. 2045 and 2046.—Elevations of Umbrella Stand in Turned Work.

Fig. 2047.—Plan of Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2048.—Joint in Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2049.—Zinc Drip Tray.

Fig. 2050.—Hat and Umbrella Stand with Mirror and Brush Box.

HAT AND WITH AND

     The hat and umbrella stand shown by Fig. 2050 is made in dark oak. It has two parts, the upright frame A at the back, and a box to hold brushes, etc., supported by two legs H These two parts are connected by a curved brass rod for holding umbrellas, and a board at the bottom (see Fig. The stand is 5 ft. 5 in. high, and projects only 8 in. from back to front. To construct the stand, begin with the back framework. This consists of two upright bars A each 4 ft. by 2 in. by 1 in.; two smaller uprights B each 2 ft. 1 1/2 in. long, with a tenon 1 in., making 2 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; with a middle rail C 1 ft. 10 in., with a tenon at each end of 1 in., making in all 2 ft. by 2 in. by 1 in.; two smaller rails E each 5 in., with a tenon of 1 in. at each end, making in all 7 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; and two central rails D each 8 in., with tenon of 1 in. at each end, making in all 10 in. by 2 in. by 1 in. Plane up the wood to the correct width and thickness, and saw to length, allowing 1 in. more to all the uprights to ensure firm mortises in the top; this spare inch may be sawn off when the rails are all glued in. Cut the tenons of all the rails, and, having mortised the uprights and the middle rail (which is to receive the two middle uprights), put all together and see that every joint is good. In order to get neat and close joints the tenons should be marked with a chisel held obliquely, and run along the blade of the square before sawing off. If all fit well, take apart, and mark all the chamfers according to plan; the chamfers giving a lighter and more finished appearance to the work. The central portion, consisting of two uprights and two rails, is to receive a bevelled mirror Fig. so the inner edges must be rebated 1/2 in. by 3/4 in., as shown in Fig. The two outside uprights A A must also be cut at the distance of 2 in. from the bottom, to receive the bottom board When all are cut and fitted glue up the central portion, which is to receive the mirror; then add the midrail C and two smaller rails E with the two uprights, A and cramp up. Whilst the stand as far as it is made is drying, other parts can be prepared.

Fig. 2051.—Section of Mirror Frame.

Fig. 2052.—Bottom of Front Leg of Umbrella Stand.

UMBRELLA AND

     Now prepare the box, which consists of a front panel 8 in., with a tenon of 1 in. at each end, making in all 10 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in.; two sides 5 in., with a tenon of 1 in. at one end, making in all 6 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in.; a back 10 1/2 in. by 5 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; two legs H each 2 ft. 8 in. by 2 in. by 2 in.; a bottom piece to fit into a groove of 3/8-in. stuff; and a lid 1 ft. 1 in. by 7 in. by 1 in. The legs should be cut according to plan, with mortises made at the upper part to receive the box sides, and cut to receive a dovetail tenon to hold the board at the bottom. The front panel may be carved in low relief, and should have a tenon of 1 in. at each end to fit into the legs, and also a groove 1/4 in. to receive the bottom of the box; the top edge of this groove should be 1/2 in. from the bottom edge. The two side panels should have a tenon of 1 in. at one end to fit into the legs, and the other end should be mortised for stopped lap-dovetail, as well as a groove 1/4 in. to receive the bottom. The back should be dovetailed at both ends; the bottom should be of 3/8-in. stuff, bevelled at three edges to fit the groove, and nailed to the back. The top should be cut with a quarter round and fillet on three sides, and when this is done a 1-in. strip should be cut off from the unmoulded edge, fastened on the box by means of dowels, and hinged to the other part of the lid. When all is fitted, glue the tenons of the four sides into the legs and into one another, and cramp up square. When the glue is dry, fix the 1-in. piece of lid with dowel pins, and, the bottom being let in, the box is complete.

DRIP AND OF

     The board for the bottom should be 2 ft. 2 in. by 7 1/2 in. by 1 in.; the two ends are rounded, and hollows sunk 3/4 in. to receive pans for drips. The front leg is cut away as in Fig. 2052 to receive the pan. Board G is let into the back legs 3/8 in., and into the front legs by hidden dovetail. A 5/8-in. hole should be bored 7/8 in. deep into the sides of the front legs and front part of the back legs to receive the brass rail; the centre of this bore should be 9/6 in. from the outside edge of legs, and on a level with the top edge of back rail c. The curved brass tube may be obtained from an ironmonger, to whom a pattern drawn full size should be supplied. Let the centre of the curved tube be drawn from a 6 1/2-in. radius, and allow 3/4 in. at each end beyond the quadrant for insertion. Now drive the brass rail into the front legs, and cramp up the front part, consisting of box and legs, with the back frame and bottom board. Secure the bottom board to the back legs, as well as the box to the rails, by screws from the back.

Fig. 2053.—Umbrella Stand Moulding.

COMPLETING THE

     The moulding should be fitted by being glued on the face at the top of the back framework; the triangular spandril K may be fastened with screws, and the top piece L when carved may be affixed with two dowel pins. The mirror should be affixed by the method shown in Fig. 2051 after the whole has been polished. The daylight size being 1 ft. 9 in. by 8 in., a plate 1 ft. 9 1/2 in. by 8 1/2 in., bevelled 1 in., should be procured; M indicates the back panel and N the block. Two brass hooks o for caps may be screwed on as shown. Cut a paper pattern of sunk hollows in the bottom board, and get an ironmonger to make two zinc trays standing 1 in. high, with a beading on the top, and the stand is complete.

HAT AND FOR

     This hat and umbrella stand (see the elevation, Fig. and sectional plan, Fig. should be constructed in oak. The following specification gives the amount of timber required at finished sizes, the allowance for tenons being reckoned in: For two back stiles, 11 ft. 6 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 1 in.; two intermediate stiles, 7 ft. 2 in. by 2 1/4 in. by 1 in.; one rail, 2 ft. by 1 1/2 in. by 1 in.; one rail, 3 ft. 7 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 1 in.; two rails, 1 ft. 7 1/2 in. by 1 in. by 1 in.; one rail, 3 ft. 7 in. by 6 1/2 in. by 1 in.; one rail, 3 ft. 7 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 1 in.; two turned legs, 4 ft. 9 3/4 in. by 2 in. by 2 in.; two box ends, 1 ft. 4 in. by 4 7/8 in. by 7/16 in.; one box front, 1 ft. 11 in. by 4 7/8 in. by 7/16 in.; one box bottom, 1 ft. 10 5/8 in. by 7 7/8 in. by 3/8 in.; one box top, 2 ft. 1 1/2 in. by 8 1/4 in. by 5/8 in.; one fillet for box top, 2 ft. 1 1/2 in. by 3/4 in. by 5/8 in.; one sunk panel, 1 ft. 8 1/2 in. by 4 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; one scroll panel, 1 ft. 8 1/2 in. by 6 1/4 in. 1/2 in.; one frieze panel, 2 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 5 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; one scroll between the turned legs, 1 ft. 9 in. by 2 in. by 3/8 in.; two corner ornaments, 1 ft. 3 1/2 in. by 6 3/4 in. by 1/2 in.; eight corner blocks, 1 ft. 8 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; four capital blocks, 4 in. by 1 1/8 in. by 1 in.; two shafts, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 1 in. by 1 in.; two arched panels, 1 ft. 4 in. by 3 1/2 in. by 1/4 in.; two fillets for arched panels, 1 ft. 4 in. by 3/8 in. by 1/4 in.; 8 ft. of mirror moulding, 1 5/8 in. by 7/8 in.; 4 ft. of plinth moulding, 1 in. by 1/2 in.; 8 1/2 ft. of box front and ends moulding; cornice mouldings, 2 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 1 7/8 in. by 1 1/4 in., and 2 ft. 4 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; three finials, 7 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 5/8 in.; one drip-tray board, 3 ft. 9 in. by 9 1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; and mirror backing, 4 ft. super. at 1/4 in. thick.

Fig. 2054.

Fig. 2055.

Figs. 2054 and 2055.—Elevation and Sectional Plan of Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2056.—Back Framework of Umbrella Stand.

CONSTRUCTING AND

     The back scantling is framed as shown in Fig. the various pieces being mortised and tenoned, except the 2 1/2-in. top rail, which is dovetail-halved over the intermediate stiles. The chamfering for the whole framing is seen in the elevation. Figs. 2057 and 2058 show the glove-box sides dovetail-tenoned into the wide rail and mortised into the squares of the front turned legs. The front is similarly fixed, and the tenons plugged with small dowels from the inner side. The front and ends are surrounded with a small moulding. The lid has its edges relieved with an ovolo moulding, and is hung to a fillet, screwed to the back rail, with two 2-in. by 5/8-in. brass butts. The front and ends are rebated to receive the bottom. The shaft is square, with fluted sides, and is tenoned into the top edge of the framing rail (see Fig. The arch panel rises from two capital blocks tenoned into the framing, the panel being let into these blocks and the top of the shaft for about 1/4 in. deep, as shown in Fig. It is also rebated into the framing and fixed with a small fillet. The corner blocks for the side openings are glued in position, and a few small pins driven in from the rear side (see Fig. The panelling is about 1/4 in. deep, and slightly scored or picked with the corner of a chisel. The two side top corner ornaments are 1/2 in. thick, with low relief panels. The cornice moulding is rebated on the frieze panel, as shown in Fig. which is rebated into the moulding below, fitting on the top framing with a dowel slip. Figs. 2061 and 2062 show the upper and lower cornice mouldings respectively. The finials (see Fig. are held in position by dowels into the stiles and a dowel slip in the central finial, which is slightly larger than the two side ones. The scroll panel is rebated in the framing.

Fig. 2057.—Section of Glove Box.

Fig. 2058.—Vertical Section of Glove Box, Mirror Frame, etc.

Fig. 2059.—Shaft and Arched Panel of Umbrella Stand.

Fig. 2060.—Umbrella Stand Corner Block.

Fig. 2061.—Upper Cornice Moulding.

Fig. 2062.—Lower Cornice Moulding..

Fig. 2063.—Umbrella Stand Finial.

AND OTHER

     The mirror has a bevel edge, and is framed in a reeded moulding, the outer edge of which is ploughed to fit the rebate in the framing, the stiles of which should be 2 1/4 in. wide, not 2 1/2 in. as shown. The glass is protected at the back by a thin board, which should be fixed with a small fillet between it and the glass to prevent the board scrubbing the silvering. The opening below the mirror is filled with a fielded panel fitting in rebates. A piece of scrollwork is fixed below the glove-box and between the two front turned legs, glue being sufficient to hold it in position. The bottom board carrying the tin-plate or enamelled drip-trays (see Fig. is fixed to the legs and under the bottom edge of the lower back rail in the framing. The front edges are moulded and fitted with a plinth moulding A rest for umbrellas and walking-sticks is formed with 5/8-in. diameter brass tube, passing from the glove-box to the back framing. The tube is fitted with flanged collars to receive the screws for fixing it. After the stand has been polished, twelve brass hooks for hats and coats should be fitted. The wood can be polished in its natural light colour, or darkened.

Fig. 2064.—Drip Tray and Board.

Fig. 2065.—Plinth Moulding for Tray Board.

Fig. 2066.

Fig. 2067.

Figs. 2066 and 2067.—Elevations of Hall Chair.

Fig. 2068.—Hall Chair Seat, Top and Underneath Plans.

HALL

     A hall chair for execution in wainscot oak or walnut is shown in side elevation by Fig. and in front elevation by Fig. Whatever material is used, if polished, it should be finished with a dull surface. This chair is 3 ft. 1 in. in height, 1 ft. 4 3/4 in. from back edge of seat to front edge, which is 1 ft. 6 in. long, extreme measurement, and the width of the back edge is governed by the legs, which measure 1 ft. 2 1/4 in. out to out (see Fig. The front legs are turned out of 2 in. square stuff. The rails are either dovetailed into the legs, or mortised and tenoned, as the back rails and back ends of side rails must go into the back legs. Any pegs used to secure the tenons in the mortises should not penetrate the outer face of the stuff, but be carefully made and fitted so as to fill properly the tenon without its being necessary to drive them right through in the ordinary way; but screws, fairly stout, and carefully put in, will answer, although they do not draw up the shoulders on the rails in the same way as pegs. Inside the frame, just under the seat, must be fitted angle brackets. It is preferable that they should be fitted and screwed on dry in the first instance, and then removed and glued well before finally fixing. Run a plough groove in the rails to receive the lip of the buttons which will secure the seat to the frame. The lip of the button is cut to fit the plough groove in the rails. This is made clear in Fig. The back is fitted together before the remaining portion of the framing is glued up; in fact, the back portion must be taken up and finished off completely. The back legs are 1 1/4 in. square when finished; the lines to which they must be cut are shown in the side elevation The distance between the inner faces of the legs is 11 3/4 in. Semicircular sinkings in the top rail die away into the face of the stuff; these are best cut in with a scribing gouge and round-nosed chisel, after having been marked out with a sharp pair of compasses. The reeding in the rails under the seat will be worked with a router. The panel in the back is 5/16 in. thick finished, and is perforated by a geometrical pattern; half elevation of this is shown full size at Fig. This may be cut out with a fret-saw; a keyhole saw is likely to splinter the back. The four corner holes are simply 5/8 in. centre-bit holes carefully cleaned out. The seat is 5/8 in. in thickness finished, and has an ovolo moulding on the edges. The top is finished quite flat, and is 1 ft. 6 1/4 in. from the floor. After the top is fitted between the back legs, it should be securely fixed by the aid of the buttons already described. The two knobs surmounting the back legs are turned separately, and fixed with glue; a half elevation is given by Fig. The brackets in front and at side underneath rails are 3/8 in. thick when finished, and are fixed with screws. The front angles of the seat should be slightly rounded, and the sharpness of the anises generally eased.

Fig. 2069.—Hall Chair Seat Buttoned to Frame.

Fig. 2070.—Fretwork in Hall Chair Back.

Fig. 2071.—Hall Chair Knob.

BEDROOM FURNITURE.

SHAVING

THE shaving cabinet illustrated by Fig. 2072 is so arranged that when the doors are open, as shown at the left hand of Fig. the light is reflected on each side of the face. The back of the cabinet should be made first. It is of 1/2-in. stuff, 2 ft. 7 in. by 2 ft. 5 in., and is either jointed up, as shown in section by Fig. or framed, a 1/4-in. board forming its centre. Cut it out with a bow-saw; the ornamental panels at the top have the outlines cut in about 1/8 in., the centres being bevelled down and punched with the point of a wire nail. The top and bottom boards at the back are 1/2 in. thick and 2 ft. 6 1/2 in. by 7 1/2 in. The ends form an angle of 45° with the back. The front edge has a length of 1 ft. 3 1/2 in. These boards are 1 ft. apart, and are fixed with screws through the back as at A Frame up the front 1 ft. 3 in. by 1 ft., the rails and stiles being 1 1/4 in. by 3/4 in., rebated for the glass, and the back edge of the stiles being bevelled off at an angle of 67 1/2°. Cut and fit the brackets as shown in Fig. They are glued and screwed through the bottom board and back. Get out the ornamental rails at top and bottom, mitre them, and glue and brad them in place, 1/2 in. within each edge, and they will then cover up the screws used to secure the front, as at C Fasten a slip cut to the section of B in each angle at the back; with these slips the doors will come flush. Frame the doors 1 ft. by 9 1/8 in. of similar section to the front, with the hinge stile bevelled to 67 1/2°, and hang the door in place. This can be fitted either with locks or with hanging handles and catches. Stain and polish, or otherwise finish to taste, and, lastly, insert the mirrors. These should be securely wedged as at D and covered at the back with thin wood to protect them from scratches.

Fig. 2072.

Fig. 2072.—General View of Shaving Cabinet.

Fig. 2073.

Fig. 2073.—Vertical Section of Shaving Cabinet.

Fig. 2074.—Joints of Shaving Cabinet.

FANCY FOR

     A fancy matchbox is shown in oblique perspective by Fig. end and side views are given by Figs. 2077 and 2078 respectively, and Fig. 2079 is a cross section. The box consists of two principal parts—the foot A into which is mortised the flat upright pillar and the box or match container, which slides upon the pillar, and is supported by it. The box may be made of mahogany, walnut, or other fancy wood, dressed to 3/16-in. in thickness, with the exception of the foot, which should be cut from thicker wood or built up. The pillar is 3 in. wide, and the length rather less than 7 in., being exactly determined after all the parts of the box are put together. A slot is cut in the centre of the broad face of the pillar (see dotted outline in Fig. The end view shows the form of the two end pieces of the box, with the several dimensions indicated. The side pieces D and H that lie between the end pieces just described will hardly require further description than what the figures themselves afford. They are plain, rectangular pieces, with one of each of their edges bevelled, in order that they may fit together as shown.

Fig. 2075.—Back Angle of Shaving Cabinet.

Fig. 2076.—Bedroom Matchbox.

MATCHBOX AND

     The two lids F of the box are bevelled on their upper edges to meet the flat sides of the pillar and the lower edges have an ornamentation cut upon them. These lids turn upon pivots G which are plain brass pins or fine round nails driven through the top edges of the box sides C into holes bored into the ends of the lids. The lids cannot be lifted up unless the whole box is slid up the pillar so that the top edges of the lids can pass inwards (see the dotted lines in Fig. The peg E passes through two holes opposite each other in the side H in line with the slot in the pillar before mentioned. Its use is to hold the box to the supporting foot. In the figure this peg is touching the lower end of the slot, the usual position; and it will be seen that, in sliding the box up the pillar, the pin traverses the slot until it meets the upper end of it, further motion of the box being then stopped. A groove, which is cut upon the top edge of the pillar at B should then fill in the angle made by the lower sloping sides D D of the box. The maker must get the several parts into adjustment so that this may happen—that is to say, the height of the pillar and the length of the slot should first be made approximately correct, and afterwards exactly determined by trial when the parts are fitted together.

Fig. 2077.—End View of Bedroom Matchbox.

PUTTING

     The several parts of the box are fastened together with fine nails or screws, with a little glue applied to the joints. On sliding the box up the pillar, one of the matches contained in the receptacle drops into the groove on the top of the pillar and, on sliding the box back into the position, the match is brought to the apex of the box, from which it may be easily picked up, even in the dark.

Fig. 2078.—Side View of Bedroom Matchbox.

BOOT AND

     Figs. 2080 and 2081 illustrate a rack for boots, shoes, and slippers, which would be useful in almost any part of the house. It can be made of 3/4-in. yellow pine or sound red deal, and requires two ends, 2 ft. 9 in. by 11 in. by 3/4 in.; one top, 4 ft. by 11 3/4 in. by 3/4 in.; two braces, 3 ft. 6 in. by 3 in. by 1/2 in.; six rails for shelves, 3 ft. 7 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; and one moulding, 6 ft. by 1 1/2 in. by 7/8 in. First prepare the rails. Plane them square, and take off the sharp corner to form a slight chamfer. Shoulder and tenon each end ready for the ends, which can then be prepared with the mortises. Space them out as shown in Fig. the two top rails for children’s boots and slippers being closer together than the others. When the mortises are cut, gently drive on the ends and wedge the rail tenons. Across the back, screw two braces B and then screw on the top from the under-side. The ends and braces should be gouged for the screws. At the front, immediately below the top, place a 5/16 in. diameter iron rod I R suspended by brass hooks, on which to fix a curtain C 2080 and to cover the boots. The finishing moulding along the top can next be fixed, and the rack is then ready for painting, or staining and varnishing. Rails are preferable to solid shelves, as they admit of a free current of air to dry the soles of the boots.

Fig. 2079.—Section of Bedroom Matchbox.

BED

     For the bed rest illustrated by Fig. 2083 the following materials will be required: For the frame A two pieces 2 ft. 1 in. by 3 in. by 1 in., planed to 2 3/4 in. by 7/8 in.; two pieces 1 ft. 4 in. by 3 in. by 1 in., planed to 2 3/4 in. by 7/8 in. For the frame two pieces 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 2 in. by 1 1/4 in., planed to 1 3/4 in. by 1 1/8 in.; one piece 11 1/2 in. by 2 in. by 1 1/4 in., planed to 1 3/4 in. by 1 1/8 in. For the frame c, two pieces 10 1/2 in. by 1 3/4 in. by 1 1/4 in., planed to 1 1/2 in. by 1 in.; and one piece 11 1/2 in. by 1 3/4 in. by 1 1/4 in., planed to 1 1/2 in. by 1 in. There will also be required between 5 yd. and 6 yd. of webbing, one pair of 1 1/4-in. back flaps, some 3/4-in. screws, and two coach-screws, 3 in. by 1/4 in. The wood must first be planed up true. Commence by planing true the face side and face edge of each piece of wood, afterwards gauging to the several widths and thicknesses, taking care that in each measurement the gauge is set quite 1/32 in. full to allow for smoothing off when glued up. When this is quite true, lay it on the bench face side uppermost, and as the other pieces are planed lay them on the prepared piece, and if each piece does not lie perfectly flat plane off the part where it touches, that being the highest part. The face edge of each piece can be done in a similar manner. To test with the eye alone, hold up a piece of wood in the line of sight, then slowly turn up the further edge into the line of sight. Note which corner comes into view first—that will be the high part; plane this down, also the opposite corner of the diagonal. The reason for this is that if one corner curls up 1/8 in., taking 1/16 in. off the opposite corner will make it equally true, and the stuff will hold thicker than if the 1/8 in. was planed off one corner. Having planed all the material on the face sides and face edges, set the gauge to the width. As each piece is gauged, plane down to the line, taking care that the edge is exactly square before the line is reached; if two gauges are to hand, then the other gauge can be set to the thickness, and the planing of each piece of wood finished. Care must be taken in planing the last side of each piece; plane down to the gauge line on each edge, testing for level by placing the back edge of the try-square across the grain.

Fig. 2080.

Fig. 2081.

Figs. 2080 and 2081.—Elevations of Boot and Shoe Rack.

Fig. 2082.—General Sectional View of Boot Rack.

Fig. 2083.—Bed Rest.

Fig. 2084.—Joint at Corner of Bed Rest Frame.

SETTING

     Now proceed to set out, remembering that in setting out work the face sides and face edges must always pair. For example, take the frame marked A Take one of the sides, 2 ft. 1 in. long, 2 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., and, keeping the face side to the worker and the face edge uppermost, find the centre of length; mark off 1 ft. (half the height) on each side of this, and square lines across the edge. Then from these lines mark 2 3/4 in. inwards, being the width of rail at top and bottom of frame, and set out 1 5/8 in. width of tenon. Note that the tenon does not go through, only entering 1 5/8 in., which is quite sufficient, the joint being fastened by fox-wedging, which is here shown by Fig. but which has already been described (see p. Thus, setting-out lines will only be needed on the face edge. Having set out one side of frame A, take the other side and place it beside the one set out, so that the two sides pair—that is, both face sides are outside and both face edges uppermost. Having squared lines across, set the mortise gauge to the chisel that is nearest one-third the thickness of stuff, adjusting the teeth of the mortise gauge so that the chisel just rests comfortably between the points of the teeth, then set the gauge head so that the teeth are exactly in the centre, trying first one side and then the other by pricking in the points of the teeth until the points coincide; then tighten up, and, holding the stock of the gauge close to the face side, mark the mortises and continue gauge lines for the haunching, running the lines on to the end. Next proceed to set out top and bottom rail of frame A Take one rail, find the centre of its length, and set off half-width of frame less 2 3/4 in. (width of stile) on each side of centre. Square all these lines, taking great care, for it is very important that these, being shoulder lines, should be marked true. Note that the try-square should always be applied to either a face side or face edge. The lines must next be squared to the other rail, it having been first noted in placing the rails together that they pair; then with the mortise gauge mark the tenons all round the end from shoulder to shoulder. Now set out frame B The stuff is 1/2 in. longer than the finished lengths. Set out one side, starting 1/4 in. from one end, and marking off 1 ft. 4 in., thus leaving a little waste to be sawn off, and enabling a square end to be cut, which can also be shot just before gluing together. From the first line set off 2 in. (see Fig. the distance the rail is from the end, then 1 3/4 in. width of rail. As none of the tenons goes through, the gauging is confined to the face edge only. Set out the other side so that it pairs with the first one, and then gauge. Before leaving it will be well to set out the notches (see Fig. On the face side of one of the 1-ft. 6-in. pieces, commencing 3/4 in. from the rail end, set out successively six spaces of 1 1/2 in. each; place the other side so that they pair. Square lines across the two pieces by means of the try-square; square also down each edge a little way, and with a marking gauge set to 1/2 in. just make a mark on the line; mark the slope with a striking knife, using the edge of the try-square as a straight-edge; then set out the rails 9 1/2 in. between shoulders, the tenons 1 in. longer, prepared for fox-wedging, as in frame Frame C comes next, taking one side and proceeding to set it out as in the case of frame B. For dimensions of see Fig. Note that one end of frame C is semicircular, and that at the centre of this portion a 5/16-in. hole must be bored through each piece (see D Fig. so as to enable the coach-screw (the head of which is shown at Fig. to pass through for the purpose of hanging frame c to frame and allowing it to hinge easily. The other ends of the frame c must be cut at an angle of 45°, to obtain which it is not necessary to have a bevel, for if the thickness of the stuff is set off from the end and a line joined diagonally from this point to the top edge, the angle will be 45°. The cross-rail is set out similarly to frame it is 9 1/2 in. between the shoulders, and the tenons are 1 in. longer. The setting-out is now complete.

Fig. 2085.—Horizontal Frame of Bed Rest.

Fig. 2086.—Bed Rest Strut.

Fig. 2087.—Head of Coach-screw.

Fig. 2088.

Fig. 2089.

Figs. 2088 and 2089.—Side and Back Views of Corner of Bed Rest Frame.

MAKING

     Commence actual work by mortising the sides for frame A The mortises are 1 5/8 in., and are widest at bottom for fox-wedging (see Fig. note also that the haunching tapers from nothing at the end to 3/8 in. at the tenon. Great care must be used in mortising, for if the hole is not perpendicular it will cause the frames to twist, as the tenons will follow the holes, and so tend to take the stuff with it. After mortising, cut the tenons, ripping down first, then sawing the shoulders, afterwards marking width of tenons 1 5/8 in. from face edges, and the haunched part of tenon 3/8 in. to nothing (see Fig. Next make two cuts in each tenon about 1/4 in. from the side and 1 in. long, and prepare and insert in each cut a small wedge of the same thickness as the tenon, 3/4 in. long, and tapered 3/16 in. to nothing, leaving the wedge projecting at the tenon end. On driving or cramping the frame together the wedges are driven in, and the end of each tenon is widened so that, with the glue, it is impossible to pull it out. A hole should now be bored in the centre of each face edge of stiles 9 in. from the bottom, the hole to be a little less than 1/4 in. diameter for the coach-screw to fasten in tight when hanging. It is best done before gluing up, for when together it would be found awkward to bore except with a rather large gimlet. Smooth the edges of the frame so as to leave it clean, and the frame is ready for gluing. The frames B and C can be served in a similar manner. In gluing up the frames, be sure the glue is hot. Get the cramp or cramps at hand before commencing, and see that the fox-wedges are right. When the frames are glued up, test them with a large square whilst applying the cramp; a slight movement of the cramp will correct any error. In frame if the diagonals are the same length it is square. If an iron cramp is not to hand, a wooden one can be constructed by screwing cleats of wood on a piece of board, 2 in. or 3 in. wide, and allowing for a pair of folding wedges. Always use a piece of wood between the frame and the hammer to avoid dents. When the glue is set, the frames can be smoothed over and the fixing together proceeded with. A pair of 1 1/4-in. back flaps and 3/4-in. screws will be required to hinge frame B to A (see Figs. 2088 and about half the knuckle of the hinge projects. The drawings will fully explain the position of the hinges. Two coach-screws, 3 in. by 1/4 in., are required to hang frame C in position in frame A (see Fig. these can be turned in with a pair of pincers. The front should be now covered with webbing. The lengths are cut to the dimensions of frame about 3/4 in. at each end being turned under and fastened by two 3/4-in. clout nails at each end. The spaces between webs should be no more than the width of the webbing, as shown in Fig. where it will be noticed that the webbing is interlaced; 5 yd. will suffice, though a little more would certainly make the whole a little stiffer. Finish with a light stain and a coat of varnish.

Fig. 2090.—Webbing on Bed Rest Frame.

Fig. 2091.

Fig. 2092.

Figs. 2091 and 2092.—Ordinary Towel Rail.

TOWEL

     Fig. 2091 gives a view of the common form of towel rail. Four pieces of wood are required for the sides, each 2 ft. 5 in. long; five pieces for the rails, each 2 ft. 7 in. long, 1/2 in. being allowed at each end for pins; two pieces 1 ft. long for cross-pieces; four small sections for feet; and one circular piece about 6 1/4 in. in diameter and 1 1/8 in. thick. The cross-pieces and uprights are all 1 in. square, whilst the rails are 3/4 in. in diameter. These latter may be octagonal in section if preferred, but all the ends must be shouldered down to fit tightly in centre-bit holes previously made in the uprights. Fig. 2092 illustrates the end elevation of the towel rail (disjointed), and shows some details of construction. The uprights are represented as having a certain portion of their length turned, but if preferred the entire length may be left square. Pins are formed on the ends of these uprights, and these fit into 1/2-in. holes which have been previously bored in the cross-pieces and the half rings which “head” the sides. The rails are wedged to the sides first. The holes to receive these pins are, of course, “blind,” and the wedges are therefore inserted in the pins before the latter are driven home. To some this may appear a difficult job, but the neatness of the joints thus made fully compensates for the trouble they necessitate. Fig. 2093 is part of a front elevation of the article. The feet may be of almost any shape, and are simply pinned to the cross-pieces (see Fig. The tops of the sides are turned in the lathe from a circular piece of wood, the ring thus produced being afterwards cut into two equal parts.

Fig. 2093.—Part Front Elevation of Towel Rail.

Fig. 2094.—Another Elevation of Towel Form of Towel.

THREE OTHER

     Fig. 2094 illustrates a towel rail made principally from square-sectioned wood. The cross-pieces which support the two side rails are fixed to the uprights by means of ordinary halving joints, whilst the uprights are united to the feet by means of tenons and mortises (see Fig. In this case it will be found advisable to make the feet from wood nearly double the thickness of the uprights, as greater stability is then obtained. Fig. 2096 shows another form of towel rail, which, like the one just described, can be cut from plain pieces of wood. The uprights are square, and on the top of each of them an ornamental section is securely fixed. An alternative design for the top is given at Fig. If the wood for the feet is cut 1 in. longer than is necessary, the superfluous 1/2 in. at each end can easily be sawn off. To construct the towel rail shown in Fig. a lathe is needed, as both the uprights and the feet are turned. Side pieces are fixed into the uprights to carry the upper rails, which enter those pieces at their broadest parts.

Fig. 2095.—Foot and Upright of Towel Rail.

Fig. 2097.—Ornamental Top for Towel Rail.

RACK OR FOR AND

     A useful rack or screen for clothes, heavy towels, etc., is shown with the “spokes” down in the position of disuse by Fig. whilst Fig. 2100 shows the body with the spokes removed, and Fig. 2101 the top of the screen when the spokes are in the position for use. The wood required to make the body is a piece of 3/4-in. pine board, 3 ft. 6 in. long and 10 in. broad; the eight rods or spokes can be made of wood of any other colour, according to taste. Measure off 2 ft. 10 in., which is the extreme length, and saw the board across, keeping the smaller piece for brackets, shelves, etc. Plane it smooth on both sides. Mark off 2 in. on each side at the extreme end of the board, and from thin pencil mark draw another (using a straightedge) exactly to the corner at the other end. Do the same to the other edge. This done, saw off this portion, keeping as close to the pencil line as possible. Now plane both edges smooth; draw the design as shown in 2100, the width at the top being 6 in., and the width at the bottom 9 in., and cut it out. Then give it 1/2-in. bevel all round. Next take up the other part of the board, and cut the brackets, etc., to the following measurements. The shelf shown in Fig. 2102 is 5 3/4 in. long and 2 7/8 in. broad; the slots shown at A are 3/8 in. wide and 1 1/8 in. long, and are eight in number; they can be cut out easily with a saw. The shelf B is 3 1/2 in. long and 1 3/4 in. broad, and is semicircular. The shelf C is also of this shape, and is 7 3/4 in. long and 4 in. broad. The eight rods or spokes are 1/4 in. thick, 1 in. broad, and 2 1/2 ft. long. A piece of brass or stout zinc 10 1/4 in. long, 1 3/4 in. broad, with slots or notches, eight in number, 3/8 in. wide, cut in it, is fastened with screws to the edge of the shelf shown by Fig. each notch being placed opposite each slot (see Figs. 2100 and another piece of brass or zinc 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. long and 1 3/4 in. broad, being fastened with screws or ornamental nails to the edge of the shelf c. This keeps the bottom ends of spokes in their place. The whole thing should be put together with screws. The bevel round the edge should be painted black, and the whole may then be varnished. When in use the spokes should be drawn up and slipped into their respective notches. The brackets securing the shelves B and C are triangular with a slight curve.

Fig. 2096.—Simple Towel Rail.

Fig. 2098.—Towel Fail in Turned Wood.

Fig. 2099.—Clothes Rack or Screen.

Fig. 2100.—Rack with Spokes Removed.

Fig. 2101.—Rack with Spokes Extended.

Fig. 2102.—Upper Shelf of Clothes Rack.

Fig. 2103.—Notched Brass Strip.

Fig. 2104.—Wall Clothes Rack.

WALL FOR AND

     Fig. 2104 shows a wall rack for use in drying clothes. The rack has a base 2 ft. 6 in. by 8 in. by 1 in., with five rods 3 ft. by 1 in. by 5/8 in. These are mortised in, and glued and wedged. Fig. 2105 shows a method of cutting out the rods with economy. As this contrivance may have to support considerable weight, it will be necessary to plug the wall from which it is suspended, as described on p. 251. Therefore mark off on the wall the positions of the screws, cut the paper in the form of the letter and gently raise the two flaps. With a cold chisel, chop out two holes of a rectangular shape about 1 1/2 in. by 1 in., and fit in each hole two taper plugs with the broad ends inside; then, after gluing the centre wedge, drive it in, and, when set, cut it off flush to the wall. The paper may now be pasted back in place and the screws inserted, as in Fig. Cut the holes and slots in the base as in Fig. and place the base, etc., in position; the appliance will be perfectly secure, but easily removed when not required for use.

FIXING

     Fig. 2108 illustrates the method of fixing a temporary mantelshelf when the existing one is of wood and too small. To the underside of the temporary board A pieces of wood about 2 in. thick and 3 in. wide, are screwed about 1 ft. 3 in. apart; they are ripped out, as shown, to fit over the existing board c, to which they are screwed. When the existing shelf is of iron, as in Fig. it will be necessary, in order to avoid driving nails into the wall, to get a blacksmith to make some lugs D of about 3/16-in. by 3/8-in. mild steel, well tempered. They are let in and screwed to the under-side of the shelf as shown, and a fly bolt E is passed through a hole in the lug and then through the nut If the nut is held in the hand and the bolt screwed up, the nut will force the lugs out and sufficient pressure will be exerted to establish a firm fixing; the bolt should catch against the front of the iron shelf as shown, and the lugs should be about 1 ft. to 1 ft. 6 in. apart. Iron shelves generally slope to the front, but the inclination is often not enough to affect articles standing on the slope; and if it is much, the upper shelf will be brought right by inserting some wedge-shaped chips of wood at

Fig. 2105.—Cutting out Wall Rack Rods.

Fig. 2106.—Wall Plug with Screw.

Fig. 2107.—Method of Hanging Clothes Rack.

Fig. 2108.—Fixing Temporary Board on Wooden Mantel Shelf.

Fig. 2109.—Fixing Temporary Board on Iron Mantel Shelf.

UNWARPABLE WITH

     The usual shapes of mantelboards are shown by Figs. 2110 to in all of which a dovetail key is illustrated; this is the feature that prevents the boards from warping. An extra key inserted from the opposite edge is shown in Fig. In this method the shelf is grooved out as shown in Fig. A simple method of cutting the sides of all the grooves at one angle is to have a piece of wood about 3 in. by 2 in. with one end cut to the angle required; then the side of the saw may be kept to this slope, as indicated in Fig. After the superfluous wood is removed, the bottom of the groove should be made even in depth by a router or “old woman’s tooth.” When making the keys, the bevels can be set to the angle of the piece of wood against which the saw rested, and can be applied to the edges of the keys when planing them. The keys may be made of hardwood if desired, and finished flush with the under-side of the shelf, or they may be thicker and allowed to project, this method giving greater strength. The keys must fit accurately, and must not be driven in too tight, or they will bend the shelf, making it hollow in its length. They can be glued in position. The whole process of cutting the keys and the sockets for the dovetail keys will be better understood if the instructions given on pp. 211 to 222 are referred to.

Fig. 2110.—Bedroom Mantelboard.

Fig. 2111.—Sitting-room Mantelboard.

Fig. 2112.—Sitting-room Mantelboard.

Fig. 2113.—Mantelboard, Dovetail Keyed.

UNWARPABLE WITH

     In the second method, illustrated at Figs. and the board is planed true and shaped, and is then bored nearly through, so as to receive three gas pipes, as shown by Fig. With care, in a shelf 7/8 in. thick, a piece of gas pipe 1/2 in. in outside diameter can be inserted. A simple means of making the auger bit bore truly is illustrated by Fig. At one end of a piece of wood about 1 1/2 in. square and 1 ft. 6 in. long, fix a block. In this make a groove with the gouge so that the upper part of the bit fits in it, arranging so that when the upper part of the bit rests in the groove, and the point of the bit is in the centre of the thickness of the shelf, the bit is quite parallel to the under surface of the longer piece of wood (see Fig. Thus, when boring, by pressing with the left hand on this piece, it will travel across the upper surface of the shelf, and the bit, by being kept against the block B will work truly through the thickness. The most suitable material for mantelboards is pine, which must be very dry, otherwise it will warp and twist.

Fig. 2114.—Dovetail Key and Mantelboard Socket.

CLOTHES WITH

     A clothes box, 3 ft. 6 in. long, 2 ft. 3 in. high, and 2 ft. from the back to the front, is shown in conventional sectional view by Fig. whilst Figs. 2120 and 2121 are front and sectional elevations, and Figs. 2122 and 2123 end elevation and cross section respectively. The material used may be good pine, red deal, or white deal, according to choice; red deal would stand the most wear. The boards for the sides, ends, bottom, and top should be about 7/8 in. thick after being planed, and should be carefully jointed and ploughed and cross-tongued and glued. An important matter when jointing up for a box is not to have the glued joints of the front and back in the same plane as those of the ends. Fig. 2120 shows the front formed of two pieces jointed, and Fig. 2122 shows the end formed of three pieces. It is a good plan to make the rim of the lid and the sides and the ends all in one; then, when the top and bottom are fixed on, the part to form the rim is separated from the sides and ends by sawing along the lines as shown at A A and B B The sides and ends should be dovetailed together as shown. The lid being curved on the top, it will be necessary to form it of strips about 4 in. wide, which should be carefully jointed and ploughed and tongued together as shown at D The bottom can be formed of three boards jointed and tongued together. By referring to the illustrations, it will be seen that the bottom is nailed direct to the lower edges of the sides and the ends; it will be much stronger if glued to them before nailing. The plinth round the lower part of the box should be about 3 1/2 in. wide and 5/8 in. thick, and chamfered as shown; it should be fixed with glue and a few small nails. The division E 2119 and should be about 1/2 in. or 5/8 in. thick, and may be slightly housed into the sides. The trays should be made of wood about 5/8 in. thick, the corners being dovetailed together as shown in Figs. and the bottoms of the trays may be thin boarding about 3/8 in. thick, jointed together. For most purposes it will be better for the top tray to have a bottom formed of webbing interlaced as shown in Fig. Two fillets of wood about 1 1/4 in. by 3/4 in. Figs. 2119 and should be fixed to the ends to support the trays. Two small fillets will also be required to keep the lower tray H in position as shown at The box, having been fitted with three hinges and a lock, is then complete.

Fig. 2115.—Sawing out Dovetail Key Socket.

Fig. 2116.—Mantelboard Stiffened with Metal Tubing.

Fig. 2117.—Metal Tubing in Mantelboard.

Fig. 2118.—Boring Mantelboard.

Fig. 2119.—Clothes Box with Trays.

Fig. 2120.—Front Elevation of Clothes Box.

Fig. 2121.—Section of Clothes Box.

Fig. 2122.—End Elevation and Cross Section of Clothes Box.

Fig. 2123.—End Elevation and Cross Section of Clothes Box.

Fig. 2124.—Clothes Box Tray with Wooden Bottom.

LINEN

     Deal is the best material probably with which to make the linen chest illustrated by Fig. The elevations and inside view of the chest, which is 2 ft. 3 in. high, 4 ft. long, and 1 ft. 10 in. wide, are represented by Figs. 2126 to The two uprights at the front corners are strips of 1 1/2-in. stuff, 2 ft. 3 in. long by 4 in. wide. Fig. 2129 shows a front and Fig. 2130 a side view of that to the right hand. In both figures, A denotes where the upper 4 in. is cut away from the front to a depth of 1/2 in. to receive the end of the upper front rail; whilst at B is a similar cut to take the end of the lower front rail. At C and D are other cuts for the end rails, all being 1/2 in. deep. A side view’ of the right-hand back upright is shown by Fig. Its length and breadth are those of its fellow at the front, but it is of 3/4-in. board only; 1 1/2-in. wood may be used, to make the job stronger, but one half will have to be sawn away as far as E to receive the ends of the back-boards. Below where the double thickness is needed to form the leg, a second piece of 3/4-in. stuff should be screwed on. At F and G this upright is cut away in. to receive the ends of the rails. The rails are all of 3/4-in. board and 4 in. wide. The front ones are 4 ft. long. The ends of these are cut away behind for a distance of 4 in. and to the depth of 1/4 in. to fit the corresponding cuts in the uprights. To these they are fastened with round-headed screws, as shown. The stiles are also of 3/4-in. stuff, 1 ft. 4 in. long and 3 in. wide, with the exception of the middle one of the front, which is 4 in. Their tops and bottoms are halved in front for 1 1/2 in. (see H Fig. corresponding cuts being made in the rails above and below to receive them. Their front edges, as well as those of the rails against the panels, are chamfered off. The panelling of the front is done with 1/2-in. board, cut to 1-ft. 7-in. lengths. These reach from the bottom of the lower rail to the middle of the upper one, above which is a longitudinal strip of the same board. This may be seen in Fig. which shows the inner side of the chest front. This arrangement will make a neater finish than could be gained by carrying the upright boards to the top. In Fig. 2128 the position of the stiles is shown by dotted lines, and the joints of the panelling should be so arranged as to be covered by them. The panels which have been thus made are 1 ft. 1 in. by 7 1/2 in. at sight; and, before leaving them, it will be well to finish them by adding the small ornamental spandrils, one, of which is illustrated by Fig. These are of 1/4-in. board, and the curved edge of each is worked to a hollow moulding with the gouge. The length of the end rails is 1 ft. 9 1/2 in. The backs of their ends are cut away 1/4 in. deep to fit the openings in the uprights—the front end for 1 in. and the back end for 1 1/2 in. The end of the chest has a 3-in. stile, and is panelled like the front. The back is of 3/4-in. boarding, the pieces being 4 ft. long and (together) 1 ft. 9 in. wide. At the corners openings will have to be cut, 4 in. by 1/2 in., to admit the ends of the rails. The back-boards are screwed to the uprights, and should also be dowelled together. For the bottom 1/2-in. matchboarding will be best, the pieces being 4 ft. long and (together) 1 ft. 10 in. wide. Openings are cut at the corners, 4 in. by 1 1/2 in., to admit the uprights. These boards are screwed to the lower end rails, also to the lower front rail and to the back-board. For their further support, three ledgers L Fig. 2 in. by 1 1/2 in., are placed beneath them and screwed to the back and front rail. The ledgers are placed in line with the middle of the stiles. This completes the carcase of the chest.

Fig. 2126.

Fig. 2127.

Figs. 2126 and 2127.—Elevations of Linen Chest.

Fig. 2125.—Clothes Box Tray, Webbed.

Fig. 2128.

Fig. 2128.—Inside View of Chest Front.

Fig. 2129.

Fig. 2130.

Figs. 2129 and 2130.—Front Corner Upright of Linen Chest.

Fig. 2131.

Fig. 2131.—Back Corner Upright.

Fig. 2132.

Fig. 2132.—Front Middle Stile.

Fig. 2133.—Spandril for Linen Chest Panels.

Fig. 2134.—Pedestal Cupboard.

LINEN

     It is necessary to add to the carcase the ornamental base-boards and mouldings shown in Figs. 2126 and running along the front and ends. These boards are 3/4 in. thick and 4 in. wide. The front one is 4 ft. 1 1/2 in. long; those at the ends are 1 ft. 10 3/4 in. long. They are mitred where they meet at the corners, and their lower edges are so shaped as to hide the ends of the ledgers. Their tops overlap the lower rails 1 in., and they are screwed to the uprights, etc. Upon these is placed a strip of moulding, 3/4 in. square, with its front edges simply rounded off. These strips, like the boards below, are mitred at the corners; the front strip is 4 ft. 3 in. long, the end strips 1 ft. 11 l/2 in. The lid is formed of 3/4-in. boards, 4 ft. 6 in. long and (together) 2 ft. wide. These boards are screwed down to four ledgers, two of which appear in Figs. 2126 and the others are within the chest, and are placed at equal distances from the outer ones and from each other. As a prop for the lid, have a lath about 1 ft. 4 in. long, working on a screw driven into the inner side of one of the end rails near the front. The chest may be stained to a dark oak colour. It may be said that whilst staining, varnishing, and polishing are outside the present scope, they are dealt with fully in the Work Handbook “Wood Finishing.”

Fig. 2135.—End Elevation of Pedestal Cupboard.

Fig. 2136.—Back Elevation of Pedestal Cupboard.

Fig. 2137.—Detail of Plinth.

Fig. 2138.—Part Section through Door.

PEDESTAL

     The pedestal cupboard illustrated by Figs. and 2136 may be constructed in ash or any other light wood. It is enclosed by a door, with a shelf on fillets dividing the space in two. The back consists of spars fixed in notches cut in the top and bottom, thus providing a means of ventilation. The two gables, of 7/8-in. stuff, are planed and squared to 2 ft. 4 1/4 in. in length by 1 ft. in width. The carcase top, of pine 5/8 in. thick, is lap-dovetailed into the gables, and is of the same width as the latter. The bottom, of 3/4-in. pine, is fixed to the gables by a sliding dovetail joint. A 1-in. piece is glued to the front edge of the bottom to take in the thickness of the door. It is kept on a level with the base moulding, 3 1/2 in. from the floor, and blocks glued on the underside of the bottom help to strengthen the joint. The five spars of the back are of pine, 2 in. wide by 3/8 in. thick; the two end spars are butted against the gables, the others being spaced about 3/4 in. apart. Notches are cut in the top and bottom of the pedestal, and the spars laid in and sprigged on (see Fig. The shelf, 5/8 in. thick, is supported by two fillets screwed to the gables. The plinth consists of a piece 5/8 in. thick, with a moulding worked on the top edge, and mitred round the front and ends. At the front it is glued to the edge of the bottom, and further secured by blocks on the inside as shown in Fig. The ends should be glued at the mitres, and screwed to the gables from the inside, thus preventing the gables shrinking or swelling and loosening the moulding. The top is 3/4 in. thick, with a moulding on the front and ends; the back part projects 3/4 in. over the gables. At the front it has a projection of 1 1/2 in. to cover in the door, which is of 1-in. stuff, mortised and tenoned together, the stiles and rails being 2 1/2 in. wide, including the 1/2-in. rebate for the moulding. The panel is 1/2 in. thick, and chamfered on the inside and beaded in (see Fig. The door should project slightly over the gables, sufficient to break the joint. It is hung with two brass butt hinges, and a wooden knob is fitted on the left-hand stile. To keep the door shut, a wedge-shaped piece of thin wood about 2 in. long is glued to the under-side of the top. When the door shuts, the top edge presses against the wedge-shaped piece.

Fig. 2139.—Panelled Front Night Commode.

PANELLED-FRONT

     The panelled-front night commode illustrated by Fig. 2139 looks well if constructed of mahogany, walnut, satin walnut, or pitchpine. The sizes and numbers of pieces for the various parts can be obtained from the illustrations, which are, practically, fully dimensioned. Fig. 2140 is a sectional view with front removed, whilst Figs. 2141 and 2142 are respectively front and side elevation. The front framing should be 7/8 in. thick, and the stiles and top rail 2 1/4 in. wide. The stiles extend to the floor, forming a fixing for the plinth; the bottom rail should be about 3 7/8 in. wide. The rails and stiles should be mortised and tenoned together, and the moulding is stuck on the solid and mitred at the junction of the stiles and rails as shown in Fig. In setting out, allow the shoulders for the rails on the front to project beyond those at the back by the breadth of the moulding, as shown in Fig. The panel is of 5/8-in. stuff, gauged all round on the face side and on the edges for the sinking. This can be done with a wide rebate plane, panel plane, or even with a smoothing plane having a movable slip. In working the two end sinkings (across the grain), take care to plane just to the lines and make the sinking parallel to the flat face of the panel. The top and bottom sinkings of the panel can then be worked to the same level as the ends. The splays with the grain and across the grain should meet in a true mitre. The joints of the framing and panel should be glued and cramped together, and the tenons can be further secured by a screw inserted from the back. The front, sides, and back should be grooved and tongued together as shown in Figs. and A satisfactory job will be made if the sides, front, and back are grooved, as shown in Figs. 2140 and to receive the bottom, which is of 1/2-in. pine. The sides and back should be of 3/4-in. board, the grain of the sides being vertical, as shown in Fig. and the grain of the back horizontal. The front and sides and the back and sides can be held firmly together by triangular blocks glued on as shown in Fig. The plinth should be about 2 1/2 in. wide, with a torus mould, and should be mitred at the two front angles and hollowed on the lower edge. It should be glued to the front and sides, and secured by a few screws from the back. The top of the framework should be finished with a strip having a beaded edge about 7/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick, fixed with glue and a few fine sprigs. The top should be 3/4 in. thick and wide enough to project at the back so as to keep the lid nearly vertical when open. The front and side edges of the top are finished with a thumb moulding, which is rebated so that it can be securely fixed and project below the under-side of the lid. The lid should be fixed with a pair of 3-in. brass butt hinges let in as shown. The board to support the pan should be of pine, the hole being recessed for the rim; this support should be fixed to the front, sides, and back by gluing blocks as shown in Fig. keeping the pan at a distance from the top equal to the thickness of the seat.

Fig. 2140.—Commode shown Partly in Section.

Fig. 2141.—Front Elevation of Night Commode.

Fig. 2142.—Side Elevation of Night Commode.

Fig. 2143.—Joint for Commode Framework.

Fig. 2144.—Part Vertical Section of Commode Front.

Fig. 2145.—Section through Stile and Panel.

Fig. 2146.—Cross Section of Commode.

SEAT OF

     The seat of the commode can next be fitted. The hole should be cut with a pad saw, and the edge rounded. To prevent the seat warping, a couple of dovetailed hardwood keys should be glued in as shown in Figs. 2140 and To cut out the hole in the seat, first mark its centre, and then with a fine bradawl bore a hole right through. Next with a pair of compasses strike out the curve on the top side. With the compasses set to a radius of about 3/8 in. less, describe the curve on the under-side, as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. With a fine bradawl make two or three holes very close together, so that they touch the lines on the upper and bottom surfaces. Care must be taken to hold the bradawl at the proper angle. The wood between the holes should be cleared out with the bradawl, thus making an entrance for a pad saw, as shown at A Place the saw in the hole, keeping it at the same angle while sawing all the way round the curve, as at Fig. 2149 (as will be seen, this only represents part of the seat), carefully noticing that the saw is following both lines. Fig. 2150 shows a method that will better ensure keeping the saw at the proper angle. Cut one end of a piece of wood to the angle at which the saw is to be held and insert a screw near the other end, so that it will go into the centre of what is going to be the lid. The piece of wood can then be made to go round with the saw. Having cut the piece out, the hole should be rounded.

Fig. 2147.—Commode Seat Dovetail Keyed.

Fig. 2148.—Commode Seat Set out.

Fig. 2149.—Cutting out Hole in Commode Seat.

Fig. 2150.—Cutting out Hole with Guide.

CLOCK

     Fig. 2151 is a front elevation of a bracket case to contain a cylindrical clock. Oak is the best material with which to construct the bracket. Fig. 2152 is a transverse vertical section, showing a curved pediment at the top which is fixed to a frame moulded on the front and the two ends. Figs. 2153 and 2154 show how this frame is made by mitring and halving at the corners. Figs. and 2155 show the sides A of the main part of the bracket; these are tongued into the end portions of the moulded frame. The lower part of each side is tongued into the large moulding forming the bottom of the bracket in Fig. D is a slip of wood glued into grooves in the lower moulding to keep the sides of the bracket together. The extreme bottom part C 2151 and is attached to the lower moulding, as shown in Fig. It can also be screwed from behind. In Fig. 2151 the lower moulding is shown decorated by radiating flutes, but if desired it can be left plain, as shown in Fig. Two turned pillars are fixed at the front by a small plug on the top end of each fitting into holes bored in the corners of the frame. At the lower end the pillar should have a tongue cut to fit into the groove made in the end portions of the lower moulding, as shown in Fig. The circular hole in the front piece is cut to a size that just enables the clock to pass through (see Figs. 2152 and The centre portion is swivelled centrally at top and bottom, so that the clock may be turned round for the purpose of winding. Two fillets are shown in section by B B in Fig. The one on the right-hand is wider than the other, and has a small rebate into which the front fits. If the front is pressed on the left-hand side it will swing round so that the back of the clock is exposed. When the motion is reversed the face comes outward, the rebated fillet preventing the front being pressed in too far. A very slight easing of the square base of the pillar will enable the front to swing past it. A wooden ring built up of two courses of segments, to strengthen the front and to support the clock, is shown in section in Figs. 2152 and and in part plan in Fig. To fix the clock in position, small recesses should be cut in the ring to receive the pegs on the bottom of the clock, which enables it to stand by itself. These recesses should be arranged for at one of the joints of the ring. In Fig. it will be seen that on the right-hand side the ring and part of the fillet must be cut away, in order that the former may swing outward. Two eye-plates should be screwed on the back edges of the side pieces, and, if placed to point inwards, will not be visible when the bracket is hung.

Fig. 2151.

Fig. 2152.

Figs. 2151 and 2152.—Front Elevation and Vertical Section of Clock Bracket.

Fig. 2153.

Fig. 2154.

Figs. 2153 and 2154.—Moulded Frame beneath Pediment of Clock Bracket.

Fig. 2155.—Horizontal Section through Clock Bracket.

TOILET

     The toilet glass illustrated by Figs. 2159 and 2160 is constructed of polished oak, and requires the following quantities of wood: For the mouldings, 7 ft. by 1 1/2 in. by 3/4 in.; pediment, 1 ft. 2 in. by 3 1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; box ends, 1 ft. by 8 in. by 3/8 in.; box back, 2 ft. by 3 in. by 3/8 in.; hinge fillet, 2 ft. by 1 in. by 3/8 in.; lid, 2 ft. by 4 1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; front, 2 ft. by 1 3/4 in. by 3/8 in.; bottom, 2 ft. by 6 in. by 3/8 in.; towel rail, 2 ft. by 1/2 in. in diameter; and four knobs or turned ends, each 1 1/4 in. in diameter by 1 in. long. First make the mirror frame, which consists of four lengths of moulding worked to the section shown in Fig. 2161 and mitred together. Strengthen the corners with hardwood keys put in on the inner side before the mitre is glued and cramped together; picture-frame moulding may be used if desired. Fit a bevel-plate mirror, 3/16 in. thick, into the frame, and fix it in the rebate with small fillets. The back of the glass should be protected with a cover board 1/8 in. thick, as shown in Fig. The pediment may be 3/8 in. thick. The design should be first pencilled on the wood, then cut out with a band saw or hand pad saw. Clean the edges with a file and some No. 1 glasspaper. The ornamentation consists of a groove following the outer line of the curves, or a single line may be scribed on about 1/16 in. deep.

Fig. 2156.—Joint of Side and Lower Moulding.

Fig. 2157.—Section of Neck Moulding.

Fig. 2158.—Bing behind Front Piece of Clock Bracket.

Fig. 2159.

Fig. 2160.

Figs. 2159 and 2160.—Front and Side Elevations of Toilet Glass.

Fig. 2161.

Fig. 2161.—Enlarged Section of Toilet Glass Box.

BOX OF

     Below the mirror a box for brushes and combs and a towel rail are provided. The box ends are of oak 3/8 in. thick; a rebate at the back edges receives the box back, the face edges being rounded as shown. The ends are pinned and glued to the mirror frame, and the box back is fixed in. Next fit the hinge fillet, which is 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick. It is rebated to the back and pinned to the framing. The lid and front should next be fitted. The lid of the box is 3/8 in. thick at the hinge edge, and 1/4 in. thick at the front edge, which is rounded to match the bottom. Hang it with 1 1/2-in. brass butt hinges to the fillet so that it fits between the end pieces with a projection above of about 1/4 in. The hingeing of the lid is better accomplished if the box bottom is fitted last. The front piece is 1 5/8 in. deep and 3/8 in. thick, pinned to each end and the bottom. In making the bottom, run a rebate 1/8 in. deep along the front, and round the edge of the remaining thickness (see Fig.

TOILET

     The bottom should now be fixed over the front and flush with the back. The towel rail is 1/2 in. in diameter, and should be let into each end 1/8 in. deep (see Fig. being placed in position before the second end is finally fixed. A turned oak knob is screwed into each end of the rail, and another knob screwed into the centre of the top piece of the box completes the making. Glasspaper the work, and stop all nail and pin holes. Then darken the wood and finish by polishing or varnishing. The mirror can be fixed to the wall with three or four strong eye-plates, arranged to suit the joints in the brickwork.

Fig. 2162.—Towel Rail and Finial.

Fig. 2163.

Fig. 2164.

Figs. 2163 and 2164.—Front and Side Elevations of Dressing Glass.

Fig. 2165.

Fig. 2165.—Plan of Dressing Glass Base.

DRESSING

     Figs. 2163 and 2164 are front and side views respectively of a dressing glass intended to be constructed in mahogany. Fig. 2165 is a plan of the base. For the frame, which measures 1 ft. 8 in. long by 1 ft. 4 in. wide, plane up two stiles 1 ft. 8 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 7/8 in. thick. The top rail is of the same width and thickness as the stiles, but the bottom rail is only 1 in. wide to allow the back to pass it (see Fig. The top and bottom rails are lap-dovetailed to the stiles. The two stiles and top rail are grooved for the pine back, which is 1/2 in. thick, chamfered to fit the groove, and slid up from the bottom (see Figs. 2166 and Two screws secure it to the bottom rail. For the face moulding, plane up sufficient lengths to go round the frame, 1 1/4 in. wide by 3/8 in. thick, and rounded as in A then mitre and glue the lengths to the frame, thus forming the rebate for the mirror plate, which shows a sight size of 1 ft. 5 1/2 in. by 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. The plate itself should be 1/2 in. more in length and width to give 1/4 in. cover all round. Before fixing in the mirror, go round the inside of the rebate with a small brush and some black varnish, to prevent the bright edge being shown on the outside. Fix the plate to the frame by small wedges glued at intervals round the edges. The base for the dressing glass should be of 7/8-in. stuff, cut and shaped to the sizes given, a moulding c 5/8 in. thick, being clamped to the under-side at the front and ends, and projecting 5/8 in. over the edges. The clamps should be 3 1/2 in. wide; glue and screw them to the bed. Four flat balls for the feet, 2 1/2 in. in diameter, are fixed at the corners with a strong screw and a touch of glue. Each turned standard should have a pin 1 in. in diameter at the end glued into the bed. The pediment is fretted out of 1/2-in. stuff, and a small fillet D, as shown at Fig. is glued to the back at the bottom for fixing the pediment to the top of the frame.

Fig. 2166.—Bottom Rail and Back of Dressing Glass.

Fig. 2167.—Part Section of Dressing Glass Frame.

Fig. 2168.—Section of Dressing Glass Base.

PIVOTING OF

     The method of swinging the glass is shown in Fig. A long screw is inserted in the knob, and a plate with a corresponding thread is screwed to the inside of the mirror frame. A hole is bored through the standard and frame, wide enough to allow the screw to pass through easily till it reaches the plate.

PORTABLE

     Fig. 2170 gives a general view of the portable bunk bed. Fig. 2171 is a cross section through one of the posts, showing the method of construction. A represents the post, turned at the top and having its inside and outside edges rounded. A groove is run to receive a feather which is worked on the haffits These latter are screwed to the posts, and the holes dowelled. The shaped rails C are tenoned to the haffits, and the blocks D screwed to the inside of the rails. The bolt catches both the rail and the block, and draws them firmly up to the haffit. An ornamental dowel is shown in the section at Fig. filling up the hole bored for the bolt-head. The dowel should be of an easy tightness. so that it can be taken out when required to get at the bolt. The front and back rails are shown in two pieces—a broad piece at the top, and a narrow one, having a bead on both edges, at the bottom. These two pieces should be dowelled together; but a better job would be made if the rails were all in one, and the beads run with a hand-beader. Fillets are screwed to the inside of the rails to carry the bottom The latter, as shown by Fig. is made up of narrow strips having a piece taken out of each edge for ventilation. Fig. 2172 represents separately the post haffit and rail to show, as far as possible, the method of putting them together.

Fig. 2169.—Pivot for Dressing Glass.

DOUBLE

     Fig. 2173 is a vertical section of a bed frame having two beds in the height. The construction is the same, but it would be rather top-heavy for house use unless plates were screwed to the posts and floor. The inside dimensions of the bed should be at least 6 ft. 3 in. by 2 ft. 2 in. The height from floor to the straight part of the rails is 2 ft. 10 in. The scantlings of the various pieces may be: Posts, 3 in. by 3 in.; haffits, 2 in. by 1 1/8 in. The front and back rails should be 1 ft. 1 in. broad by 1 1/8 in. The end rails usually rise higher in the crown, varying from 3 in. to 6 in. The blocks should be about 4 in. or 5 in. broad and 1 1/8 in. thick. The fillets are 2 in. by 1 1/2 in., and should be well screwed. The bottom should be at least 3/4 in. thick; the width may vary from 4 in. to 7 in.

Fig. 2170.—Portable Bunk Bed.

Fig. 2171.—Section through Post and Rails.

Fig. 2172.—Post, Haffit and Rail of Bunk Bed.

Fig. 2173.—Vertical Section through Double Bunk Bed

WITH

     The cot shown in general view by Fig. 2174 is so arranged that the whole or part of the sides can be removed. As illustrated, the head piece and the foot piece can be made movable if required. Fig. 2175 illustrates side elevation and Fig. 2176 end elevation. Almost any kind of wood, from ordinary deal, which can be stained and varnished, to oak or mahogany, which can be polished, will be suitable for making the cot. The following are the particulars of the different pieces of wood required: Two posts for the head, 3 ft. 10 in. long and 3 in. square, and two posts for the foot, 3 ft. 5 in. long; two long rails for the sides, 4 ft. 6 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 2 in. thick; two short rails—one for the head and the other for the foot—each 2 ft. long, 6 in. wide, and 1 1/2 in. thick. The two lower boards for the sides should be 6 in. wide and 4 ft. 2 in. long, and the corresponding board for the foot 6 in. wide and 1 ft. 7 in. long. The two upper curved boards for the sides can be got out of boards 11 in. wide and the curved boards for the foot out of 9-in. boards. The head board can be made by jointing three pieces of 9-in. board. All the above-mentioned boards should be 7/8-in. stuff, so that when they are planed on each side they will be 3/4 in. thick. Eight pieces 3 in. wide, 3/4 in. thick, and 1 ft. 10 in. long will be required for the laths. Reference to the dimensions on the drawings will show that sufficient has been allowed to each piece for waste. In making the cot, first plane up all the pieces of wood to their proper breadth and thickness, after which the mortises in the legs and the tenons of the rails should be set out; the shapes of these are shown by Fig. where A is the tenon at the end of a side rail, and B that of a short rail. It will be seen that the mortises are not at the same level, which allows of the tenons going in farther, and that the bolts are not sufficiently near each other to weaken the post. The mortises and tenons should fit properly, the shoulders on the rails butting against the post, thus making the cot rigid. Eight 3/8-in. bed screws and nuts will be required for the rails and legs. Mortises should be made in the rails for the nuts, as shown in Figs. 2177 and holes being bored in the legs for the heads of the bolts, as shown in the section Care must be taken to mark out for the mortises for nuts and holes, and for the heads of bolts, in the same straight line. Next bore the holes for the bolts through the posts into the tenons while the joints are together, keeping the parts square to each other while doing so. The bolts and nuts should now be fitted into their respective places and tightened up with a bed key. Then fix the nuts by means of a few small wedges and fill the holes in the rails with pieces of wood so that the grain of the rail appears to be continuous. This will keep the nuts in their proper positions when it is necessary to take the cot to pieces. Next take the legs and rails apart, and mark each tenon and mortise with a distinguishing mark, so that the same can be put together again, and cut out the sockets for the ends of the laths in the sides, the shape of these being as shown in Figs. 2174 and The rails at the head and foot can now be cut with a bow saw to the curved form shown, and smoothed with a spokeshave. The chamfering to the legs and rails should next be done, and round knobs fixed at the top of the post, as shown in Fig.

Fig. 2174.—Child’s Wooden Cot.

Fig. 2175.

Fig. 2176.

Figs. 2175 and 2176.—Elevations of Child’s Wooden Cot.

Fig. 2177.—Joints between Rails and Leg of Cot.

Fig. 2178.—Section through Part of Leg and Rail.

Fig. 2179.—Sockets for Ends of Laths.

PUTTING

     Now put the framework together, and fit in the laths as shown at Fig. The boards for the head, foot, and sides should be carefully fitted in between the posts only just hand-tight, so as not to force off the legs from the shoulders of the rails. A simple and effective way to keep these boards in position is by means of 1/2-in. by 3/8-in. beads, as shown in the illustrations. These beads are strips of wood with a rounded edge, as shown by the section in Fig. Fix the outside beads first with glue and a few sprigs; then place the boards in position and fix the inside beads in a similar manner close up to the boards. The curving to the top of the boards can now be marked and cut with a bow saw and smoothed. Two wooden brackets, glued and screwed to the under-side of the side rails, as shown at C and D will make the cot more rigid. The heads of the bed screws can be concealed by a turned wooden button fitting tightly into the hole, a section of which is shown at E The shape of the movable sides is shown sufficiently in Figs. 2174 to

Fig. 2180.—Side Boards fixed to Leg.

     The folding bed, shown closed in Fig. 2181 and open in Fig. is made in 3/4-in. stuff; the sides are 3 ft. 4 in. long and 2 ft. wide, a strip being fastened cross-wise 10 in. to its top edge from the bottom of sides on the inside. The top will be 3 ft. 1 in. long and 1 ft. wide. The bed, when closed, as in Fig. greatly resembles an old-fashioned chest of drawers. The bevelled part can either be made as a panel, as shown in Fig. or an ordinary board 3 ft. 1 in. long and 1 ft. 3 in. wide. The front is made up in separate pieces. To do this, fasten a three-cornered piece on the sides 3/4 in. from the front edge, and nail the boards to this from the inside. Start at the bottom with a strip 2 in. wide and 2 ft. 10 1/2 in. long. Next comes a piece 6 in. wide, then a strip 1 in., another 6 in. The small imitation drawers are made by a slight saw-cut across the boards 1 1/2 in. from each end, with 1 in. between cuts and again exactly in the centre. The bottom is 1/2 in. thick, with moulding 1 1/2 in. deep running round the front and sides. Now make a frame 2 ft. 10 1/2 in. long and 1 ft. 9 in. wide. This should be of ash or elm 2 in. square, firmly mortised at the joints. Before fitting together, however, cut pieces out for the laths; there will be five of these, 2 in. wide, 1/2 in. thick, and 5 3/4 in. apart. Now make another similar frame, but 2 ft. 10 1/2 in. wide and 2 ft. 2 in. long. Two legs 10 1/2 in. long will be fastened on its rear end with hinges, so that they fold beneath the bed. A small rail 6 in. deep is now put along the bottom and 1 ft. 6 in. up each side. Put the frame made first into the chest on to the cross-pieces and firmly fasten. A good way is to run a couple of small pins through each side, the heads being sunk flush with the outside, and screw tightly together. Place the larger frame into position and fasten together with long hinges. Two doors are wanted for the back, each 1 ft. 5 1/4 in. wide; these may be made of 1/2-in. matchboard. The bedstead is now complete as far as woodwork is concerned. When not in use, the bed can be stowed away in the front of the chest, the legs being pushed down and the frame tilted up against the bed. The doors are closed and the chest is placed against the wall. Only one door instead of two is shown in Fig. The handles and brass keyholes can be put on last; the latter are bored about halfway through

Fig. 2181.—Child’s Folding Bed, Closed.

Fig. 2182.—Child’s Folding Bed, Open.

OAK

     Fig. 2183 illustrates a bedstead that presents a very good appearance if made of oak. Leading dimensions are given on Figs. 2184 and but these dimensions can be varied to the requirements. Alternative methods of connecting the sides to the foot and head are shown, Figs. 2186 and 2187 illustrating the old bed-screw method of connecting by means of a bolt and nut. In this case a hole A is bored from the end of the tenon longitudinally in the rail; a mortise is made from the inside of the rail, and a nut B is inserted, the bolt-head being hidden by the turned wooden button A method that is now being generally used is illustrated at Fig. the principle being that used on iron bedsteads. A dovetail piece with flanges is screwed to the post, the flanges being let in, and a corresponding dovetail socket piece is fitted and screwed to each end of the rails. The illustrations show the construction fully. The pieces of timber having been cut to their several sizes, each should be planed to finished dimensions. Then the posts and rails should be set out and the mortising and tenoning done. The forms of joints for connecting the stiles and rails of the head and foot are clearly shown at D and E and the top rails are curved to improve the appearance. It will make a stronger job to house the posts to a depth of about 1/4 in. so as to receive the stiles of the framing, as indicated at Fig. The curved top rail has a stub-tenon at each end to enter corresponding mortises in each post. The stiles and rails are ploughed to receive a panel, which is shown in Figs. 2186 and with splayed margins. Cut an oval-sectioned piece F to the proper sweep and sink out the under-side to fit on to the curved rail, the posts being recessed so as to receive the ends of the capping. After the joints fit satisfactorily, the posts, rails, and stiles should be stop-chamfered and the tops and bottoms of the posts worked to shape. The joints of the head and foot framings can then be glued together, and when the glue is dry the stiles and rails can be smoothed off. Then the top and bottom rails and stiles can be finally fitted into the posts, and then these can be glued together also. Four castors can be fixed on the bottoms of the posts to complete the bedstead.

Fig. 2183.—Oak Bedstead.

Fig. 2184.

Fig. 2185.

Figs. 2184 and 2185.—Side and End Elevations of Oak Bedstead.

Fig. 2186.—Part of Bedstead Post and Panel.

A

     The corner washstand illustrated by Fig. 2190 should be made of mahogany. Fig. 2191 is a plan of the top, and Fig. 2192 is a plan of drawer, etc., with shelf removed. The two parts of the splashboard are dovetailed at the angle and housed and glued to the top; the board is also screwed from beneath near each end and about halfway on each side (see Fig. but before this is done the quadrant shelf should be glued into its housing, and further secured with a couple of well-sunk brads. The holes for the basin, soap-dish, etc. (see Fig. should be cut with a keyhole- or bow-saw, and the edges smoothed and rounded with a spokeshave. The piece removed for the basin-hole can be used in turning the ring for the jug stand 2193 and The front rails, etc., are of 5/8-in. stuff, and a piece 2 ft. long by 7 in. wide will be sufficient. This should be curved by means of saw-kerfing to a radius of 1 ft. 3 1/2 in. When the saw-cuts are made and the glue is well rubbed in, the curve may be formed, and a piece of canvas or strong muslin should be glued to the concave side and allowed to remain for at least twenty-four hours. The jug shelf 2193 and is in five parts, the arm reaching to the corner leg being joined to the front portion by a straight tongue-and-groove joint as illustrated. A stronger method is by making a mitred joint as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. in which case the supporting piece extending to the back leg may be omitted, as it is not seen. The method of securing the tenons into the legs is shown by Figs. 2193 and The stiffening or supporting bracket is housed into the under surface of the shelf and glued. The ring, which should be turned in a lathe, is fitted into a groove, glued, and further secured by means of a few thin screws inserted from below. An easy way to cut this circular groove is to drive a steel pin into the stock of the cutting gauge and file the end to a sharp point projecting about 3/16 in. Then, with the blade set out sufficiently, adjust the distance to half the diameter required and cut a circle about 3/32 in. deep. Then cut another one inside at the proper distance and remove the intervening portion with a chisel. The side rails in the centre and at the top are mortised into the legs, as shown in Fig. which is a section at E E taken at a level just above the drawer. The legs, 1 in. square in section, may be steamed and bent or cut from the solid. The spring of the curve is just below the drawer shelf, but if it be desired to put brackets in these angles, as in the angles under the top, the curve should commence 2 in. lower.

Fig. 2187.—Bed-screw Joint.

Fig. 2188.—Metal Dovetail for Bed Rails.

Fig. 2189.—Jointing Bedstead Framework.

Fig. 2190.—Corner Washstand.

Fig. 2191.—Plan of Corner Washstand Top.

Fig. 2192.—Plan of Washstand Drawer, etc.

Fig. 2193.—Plan of Jug Shelf.

CURVED AND OF

     Fig. 2196 is a section on B B and shows the fitting of the guides and bearers of the drawer, the bottom piece being of pine rebated into the sides and bradded or screwed in last. A section through the drawer in the opposite direction D D is shown by Fig. Fig. 2198 is a section through the top on C C and shows the housing of the splashboard and the fixing of the top to the front and side rails by glued angle blocks. The curved front rails, drawer front, etc., are constructed as follows: A piece of wood, kerfed to the required curve, should when dry be cut with a fine tenon saw to the following sizes: for the top rail, have one piece 1 3/4 in. wide and one 3/8 in. wide. The sawn surfaces may be smoothed with a piece of coarse glasspaper and glued. A thin piece of ebony, or a piece of ebony and another of white holly or chestnut (also glued), should then be inserted, and the whole cramped up tightly till dry. The projecting edges of the “inlaid” wood should then be removed, and the surface glasspapered flush. The rail into which the drawer is fitted is worked in a somewhat similar way. A piece 3 in. wide is sawn off and its edges are faced with ebony, or ebony and white wood. When dry the drawer front must be cut from the centre, and the vertical edges veneered to match the top and the bottom. The remaining parts should then be cut to the exact length, and the mock drawer fronts arranged by vertical slips of veneer carefully recessed and glued into position. Two strips of the curve, 3/8 in. and 1/2 in. wide respectively, will be required for the portions above and below the drawer, and also a 1/4-in. nosing for the bottom The upper and lower edges of the dummy drawers may then be glued, the various parts arranged in their respective positions and cramped together until dry, when the projections should be removed.

Fig. 2194.—Section of Jug Shelf.

Fig. 2195.—Corner Washstand Brackets.

Fig. 2196.—Section of Corner Washstand Drawer.

Fig. 2197.—Section of Corner Washstand Drawer.

Fig. 2198.—Section through Washstand Top.

CORNER

     The drawer is constructed as shown in Figs. and and may be furnished with a turned wooden knob, shown enlarged in Fig. or a lacquered brass knob may be used. Similar knobs should be fitted to the mock fronts. If the knobs are glued in they should be fixed after the polishing is completed. The canvas or muslin on the inside of the curved drawer front should be removed and the inside worked to a smooth surface before the sides are fixed. The washstand, when ready for polishing, will be improved by staining a Chippendale colour, or stained oil may be used before bodying in; the whitewood slips should, in any case, be slightly stained. The under surface of the top and the inside of the top rails should be given a few coats of polish applied with a brush, this preventing any possible loosening of glued parts by spilled water.

Fig. 2199.—Drawer Knob.

WASHSTAND WITH

     The washstand of which Fig. 2200 is a front elevation, and Figs. 2201 and 2202 are sections, should be constructed of ash or birch. It contains two drawers and also a pedestal cupboard enclosed by a door, and supported by a shelf which is screwed to stretchers, tenoned to the legs at each end. A shaped shelf (see Fig. above the tiled back rests on end brackets. The four legs are 1 1/2 in. square. Plane them up true and mark the positions of the rails for the mortises. The end rails A and back rail B are 5 in. deep by 7/8 in. thick, and are stub-tenoned to the legs, keeping the rails 1/8 in. back from the outside. The rails are rebated at the top, and two stretchers, 1 1/8 in. by 3/4 in., are tenoned to the legs. The ends of the shelf are screwed to the under-sides of the stretchers. The construction of the frame is shown in detail by Fig. The rail C below the drawers is double tenoned to the leg, the top rail D being dovetailed at the ends. The division between the drawers is fixed to the top and bottom rails by cutting square pins at the front and fitting them into corresponding mortises in the rails. The division extends to the back rail, where it is housed in a dovetail groove. The division is made up in two pieces. At the front the grain runs in a perpendicular direction, the inside piece lying horizontally, and the two pieces are fixed together by a tongue joint. The drawer bearers F are glued and sprigged to the inside of each end rail and at each side of the division. The two ends of the cupboard G are 7/8 in. thick, and are housed into the shelf, which is grooved to receive them, the grooves being stopped at the front edges. Make a slight taper on the grooves, and bevel one side to make a dovetail joint, to ensure the cupboard ends being tight when driven in from the back. The edges are rebated to receive the back. Two rails H are dovetailed to the ends at the back and front, the one at the front being kept back the thickness of the door from the front edges of the cupboard ends, and the back rail set in 5/8 in., to allow the tongued and grooved back to overlap. The shelf inside the cupboard, rests on two fillets The stiles and rails of the door are 2 in. wide by 7/8 in. thick, and should be rebated at the back for the panel, which is bevelled 1 1/4 in. deep all round the edges, and beaded in from the back. The door should be fitted with a pair of 2-in. brass butt hinges on the right-hand side, and secured by a latch. The top, 7/8 in. thick, has a moulding on the front and ends, and projects 3/4 in. at the front, and 1 1/2 in. at the back and ends. The two drawers are 3 1/2 in. deep, with a 3/4-in. bevel round the front edges. The four feet are shaped as shown in Fig. the two front legs being also fluted. The back consists of a frame stub - tenoned together, the stiles and rails, 2 in. wide by 7/8 in. thick, being rebated. A vertical section of the frame is shown in Fig. Tile pattern linoleum can be substituted for a tile back if desired. A thin pine board L is sprigged to the back of the frame, while the edges are rounded over. Leave the bottom rail of the back about 1 in. wider for screwing to the back edge of the top. The two end posts, 1 1/4 in. square, are dowelled to the edges of the frame, their top ends being either turned or moulded square. The two end brackets, 7/8 in. thick, shaped as shown in Fig. are screwed to the posts at the back, and two dowels in the bottom edge secure them to the top. The shaped shelf M 3/4 in. thick, is screwed to the top edge of the back, and dowelled to the top edges of the brackets. The carved pediment, 3/4 in. thick, is screwed to the shelf; Fig. 2206 shows an enlarged detail of the carving.

Fig. 2200.

Fig. 2201.

Figs. 2200 and 2201.—Front Elevation and Side Elevation of Washstand with Tiled Back.

Fig. 2202.

Fig. 2203.

Figs. 2202 and 2203.—Half Section and Half Plan of Washstand.

Fig. 2204.—Washstand Framing.

Fig. 2205.—Frame for Washstand Back.

COMBINED AND

     Fig. 2207 illustrates a washstand and dressing table combined which would look well if made of mahogany, walnut, oak, birch, ash, or even red deal stained and varnished. Figs. and 2211 are dimensioned, so only the chief points in the making need be described. Fig. 2210 is a section at A A Having planed the requisite pieces square to dimensions, all the stiles (which are run down to form the legs) and the rails should be set out for the mortises and tenons; these, for the top rails over the mirror and tiles, should be of the form indicated at Fig. the length of the mortise being equal to the breadth of the tenon after the latter has been reduced by the rebates for the tiles and mirror. Fig. 2213 shows the mortise-and-tenon joints required for the rails beneath the mirror and tiles, B showing the same. Next rebate the rails, allowing the rebates to run right through. The long back stile D is rebated from the top down to the under-side of the shelf Stile F is rebated the same distance on each edge, and stile G is rebated on the inner edge to within the same distance of the lower end as the others. The two front legs and stile G require mortising for the tenons of the rail H and curved rails K and These two rails will be best cut out of the solid. The two narrow rails M and N 2208 and should be rebated for the horizontal divisions O and P and then stop-housed into the two front legs. The framework may next be fitted together, and, if satisfactory, the joints may be glued up. Then prepare the shelves o and R 2208 and these are 7/8 in. thick, and are rebated at the back edge on the upper and lower surfaces. Two bracket pieces s 2208 and should be prepared, being housed a little way into the shelf o, but secured to the shelf R by screwing from the under-side. The panels for the back and sides should be fitted and fixed into their respective rebates, being held in position by beads, mitred and nailed round as in Fig. A drawer is shown with a splayed marginal front, the sides, back, and front being dovetailed together in the usual manner, and the bottom fitting in plough grooves made in the front and sides, as indicated at Fig. The door is of simple construction, the stiles and rails, 2 1/4 in. by 3/4 in., being stub-tenoned and mortised together as illustrated at Fig. they have rebates in which a splayed marginal panel is secured by beads, mitred and nailed; see Fig. which is a section at P P

Fig. 2206.—Part of Washstand Pediment.

Fig. 2207.—Combined Washstand and Dressing Table.

Fig. 2208.—Front Elevation of Washstand and Dressing Table.

Fig. 2209.—Side Elevation of Washstand and Dressing Table.

Fig. 2210.—Horizontal Section of Washstand, etc.

Fig. 2211.—Section of Drawer and Cupboard.

Fig. 2212.—Joint in Framing.

Fig. 2213.—Joint in Framing.

TOP AND OF

     The top of the washstand would of course be better if made of marble, and would not be costly; it would rest on the front curved rail, fillets being screwed underneath. To prevent the marble sliding off, a few small blocks of stone should be secured with plaster-of-Paris to the under-side, against the inside of the curved rail, or a few dowels (brass screws with the heads filed off) may be screwed into the rail to fit in holes on the under-side of the marble. The lower shelf is of wood, having the edge rounded, and is secured by screws inserted from the under-side of the rail, and from the back. The curved boarding forming the ornamentation at the top should next be cut out and fixed in position. Tile-pattern linoleum will make a cheap back, or tiles may be used if desired. The doors may be hinged with a pair of 1 1/2-in. brass butts, and a lock or fastener and a brass handle for the drawer may be obtained of a pattern to suit personal taste. Finally, the mirror should be procured and fixed in position by backboarding and beads, as at A in Fig. which is a section at C C

Fig. 2214.—Section through Mirror.

Fig. 2215.—Door Joint.

Fig. 2216.—Chest of Drawers.

Fig. 2217.

Fig. 2218.

Figs. 2217 and 2218.—Longitudinal and Cross Sections of Chest of Drawers.

Fig. 2219.—Vertical Partition for Chest of Drawers.

FRAMEWORK OF OF

     The chest of drawers illustrated by Fig. 2216 is 4 ft. wide, 4 ft. 6 in. high, and 2 ft. deep outside. The two sides 1 1/2 in, thick, 1 ft. 10 3/4 in. wide, and 3 ft. 11 1/8 in. high, support the top which is 1 1/2 in. thick, 2 ft. wide, and 4 ft. long, the grooves being 1/2 in. deep. Two inner pieces 1 ft. 10 1/4 in. wide, and 3 ft. 10 5/8 in. long, and a bottom 1 ft. 10 1/4 in. wide and 3 ft. 5 1/4 in. long, rest on the piece C (see Figs. 2217 and The top piece F and the two lower partitions G are 5 1/2 in. wide and 3 ft. in. long, the shorter partitions H being 5 1/2 in. wide and 10 1/2 in. long. The partition J is 1 ft. 4 3/4 in. wide and 3 ft. in. long, and the vertical partitions K are 1 ft. Of in. deep by 1 ft. 4 3/4 in. long, cut to the shape shown by Fig. to rest in 3/8-in. grooves in the pieces and All the partitions, including F and bottom are cut out as shown by Fig. and rest, as shown in Fig. in 3/8-in. grooves. Fig. 2220 is a plan of the broad partition All partitions in the sides, top, and bottom of the inner framework are 1 in. thick. Side rails 1 1/2 in. wide and 1 ft. 3 3/4 in. long, and resting in 3/8-in. grooves in the partitions D and are put in at each side of the drawer spaces for the drawers to run on (see Figs. 2218 and A 1/4-in. boarding separates the drawers, as indicated by the black lines in Fig. The plinth is 2 1/2 in. thick and 5 in. deep, and should be cut out to receive the bottom and sides, as shown. The whole is raised slightly from the ground by means of buttons, 1 in. thick, screwed to the plinth. The framework should be strengthened where necessary by triangular blocks.

Fig. 2220.—Horizontal Partition for Chest of Drawers.

Fig. 2221.—Horizontal Section of Chest of Drawers.

Figs. 2222 and 2223.—Drawer Details.

THE

     The drawers are fitted together as shown in Figs. 2222 and but the bottoms of the long drawers are strengthened with two battens. The drawer fronts are 1 in. thick, the sides 3/8 in. thick, and the bottom and back 1/4 in. thick; the smaller drawers may be of thinner stuff. The clear spaces for the drawers are as follow: Bottom drawer, 11 in. deep, 3 ft. 4 1/2 in. wide, by 1 ft. 9 3/4 in.; the two other long drawers are similar, but 9 in. and 10 1/2 in. deep. The bonnet drawer is 1 ft. 10 3/4 in. deep, 1 ft. 7 in. wide, by 1 ft. 7 1/2 in.; the four short drawers are 5 in. deep, 9 3/4 in. wide, by 1 ft. 7 1/2 in. Drawer stops should be fixed on the runners. The handles may be of either wood or brass. The back is 1/2 in. thick, and is strengthened vertically by two battens, and rests in a groove in the top B (see Fig. The top should be reed moulded. The bottom long drawer can be made deeper, and, instead of the four small drawers and centre bonnet drawer, two short drawers can be substituted if found desirable. Fig. 2221 is a section on Y Y

Fig. 2224.

Fig. 2225.

Figs. 2224 and 2225.—Section and Elevation of Chest of Drawers and Dressing Glass.

CHEST OF AND

     Fig. 2224 shows the front elevation of a chest of drawers, with a dressing glass and jewel drawer fitted to the top. The chest contains four drawers, one 10 in. deep, one 8 in. deep, and two short drawers 6 1/2 in. deep. The chest measures 3 ft. over the gables. The two gables should be planed and squared up to 2 ft. 3 1/2 in. in length by 1 ft. 6 in. in width by 7/8 in. thick. The back edges are rebated to receive the back, which consists of 5/8-in. matchboarding. The bottom, of pine 3/4 in. thick, is lap-dovetailed to the gable ends. Two pieces A 3 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, are fixed to the gable ends in the same manner as the bottom, the object of one being to allow the back to overlap. The front piece may be of pine, with a thin slip of walnut glued to the edge. The two fore-edges B are also 3 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, and are fixed to the gables by grooving the latter to form a dovetail The fore-edges are slid in from the back. Stop the grooves at the front, and rebate the fore-edges to bring them flush there.

Fig. 2226.—Dovetail Joint in Gable.

Fig. 2227.—Drawer Bearer.

DRAWERS AND

     The drawer bearers are housed in grooves C in the gables, and should be 1 1/4 in. wide, and grooved to receive the dust-board A small tenon may be cut on the front end of the bearer and fitted into the groove in the fore-edge. Screw the bearers to the gables. The division between the two short drawers is the same width and thickness as the fore-edges, and is tenoned at the top and bottom as shown at E A broad bearer, 3 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, has a small tenon at the front, and is dovetailed at the back to the upright piece G, which in turn is dovetailed to the horizontal piece The guide I is glued and sprigged to the bearer. This should be grooved on the edges for the dustboard, which may be of 3/8-in. stuff slid in from the back, the object being to keep the dust from the contents of the drawer below. The base moulding J 2 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, is screwed to the bottom and mitred at the corners. The shaped feet are mitred and glued to a block of pine, as in Fig. and are then screwed up to the moulding, and the drawer fronts, 7/8 in. thick, are fitted tightly in their places. Next fit the drawer backs in the same way, making them 1 in. narrower than the fronts. The sides are lap-dovetailed to the fronts. The top edge of the back is 1/4 in. below the edges of the sides, and the bottom edge is kept up 3/4 in. Grooved slips K are glued to the sides to carry the drawer bottom, and are rounded on the top edges. The bottoms of the long drawers are in two, and are supported by a muntin L grooved on the edges similar to the slips at the sides. It is sunk into the bottom edge of the drawer front to bring it in line with the groove in the latter, and is secured with screws. The bottoms should be 3/8 in. thick, with the grain of the wood parallel to the fronts. All the drawer fronts are chamfered at the edges, as shown in section by Fig. Fit the drawers before fixing the carcase back. The drawers are set back 1/8 in. from the outside, and are stopped by gluing and sprigging to the fore-edges small pieces of hardwood M 2 in. square by 1/8 in. thick. The top, 3/4 in. thick, projects 3/4 in. over the front and ends, but at the back it should project at least 1 in.

Fig. 2228.—Drawer Bearers and Divisions.

Fig. 2229.—Foot, etc., of Chest of Drawers.

Fig. 2230.—Section of Base.

Fig. 2231.—Section through Drawer.

Fig. 2232.—Drawer Stop.

JEWEL OF

     The box for the jewel drawer consists of the shaped shelf 5/8 in. thick, into which the two ends N are housed with a dovetail groove, stopped at the front. The ends are 5/8 in. thick, and the bottom O is 1/2 in. thick, and fixed to the ends by screws. The two side brackets P 1 in. thick, may be relieved by flat carving, and are screwed to the back edge of the shelf. Two screws may also be put into the edge of the bracket which butts against the side of the box. The whole is then secured to the top of the chest by screws through the top into the brackets. Two screws should be driven through the bottom of the box at the front edge into the top. A thin piece of pine is sprigged to the back of the jewel box.

Fig. 2233.—Dressing Glass Shelf.

Fig. 2234.—Section of Jewel Box.

Fig. 2235.—Fixing Bracket to Jewel Box.

MIRROR OF

     The mirror frame shown in section by Fig. 2236 is made by dovetailing together a frame 7/8 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, the outside dimensions being 1 ft. 5 1/2 in. by 1 ft. 2 1/2 in. The top and bottom pieces of the frame are lap-dovetailed to the sides. The moulding R, 1 1/4 in. by 3/8 in., is mitred and glued on the face of the frame, and forms the rebate for the mirror plate, which is fixed by wedge-shaped blocks glued round the edges. A pine back s is rebated and screwed to the back of the frame. A plate 5/8 in. thick, with a hollow moulding worked on the edges, is screwed to the top of the frame, and the pediment is glued to the plate. The mirror frame is hung about 1 in, above its centre with a pair of brass catches, shown in Fig. The sockets are sunk flush with the edges of the frame, and the pivots are fixed to the brackets. Brass till locks should be fitted to the drawers, which are also provided with turned knobs. All the parts shown may be in walnut, or the whole could be in pine, which should be stained a suitable colour and polished.

Fig. 2236.—Section of Mirror Frame.

Fig. 2237.—Mirror Pivoting Arrangement.

Fig. 2238.—Corner Wardrobe.

CORNER

     A corner wardrobe as shown by Figs. 2238 to 2240 is provided with hinged shutters, to which are attached curtains reaching to the floor; Fig. 2241 illustrates the curtain rod. In a low room the cornice might be fitted close up to the ceiling, then the necessity for dustboards would be obviated. Also, when the ceiling is unusually high, the top of the shutters may be fixed at the same height as the bedroom door. First prepare two posts 2239 and 2 ft. 9 in. long; these can be sawn diagonally from stuff 3 in. square. Fix the posts to the walls, the top of each being 9 in. higher than the shutters, and 2 ft. 6 in. from the corner of the room—that is, from A to B Next nail on the frieze board. The ends should mitre to the walls, and on the under edge is fixed a fillet with a nosing worked on its outer edge; on the back edge is nailed a stop fillet to prevent the shutters swinging inside. About 5 ft. of cornice moulding is required, and it mitres to the walls, the lower edge being fixed to the frieze with screws, and the upper ends being nailed to 2-in. by 1-in. battens. The dustboards are bradded to cornice and battens (see Figs. and Fig. 2245 shows the end of the shutter. Figs. 2246 and 2247 show alternative designs for shutters fitted with fretwork panels and for the cornice frieze, the fret-board being 1/2 in. thick by 1 ft. 2 in. wide. The shutters of Fig. 2238 are cut from stuff 7/8 in. thick by 1 ft. 2 in. wide, the bottom-shaped piece being tongued and glued on after the fretting is finished. Two battens provided with hooks are nailed to the walls at a convenient height. The woodwork should be primed and painted or enamelled.

Fig. 2239.—Section of Corner Wardrobe.

Fig. 2240.—Plan of Corner Wardrobe.

Fig. 2241.—Corner Wardrobe Curtain Rod.

Fig. 2242.—Section of Wardrobe Cornice.

Fig. 2243.—Part Horizontal Section of Wardrobe.

Fig. 2244.—Fixing End of Cornice.

Fig. 2245.—Shutter Terminal.

Fig. 2246.—Fretwork Shutter.

Fig. 2247.

Fig. 2247.—Corner Wardrobe Fretted Cornice.

Fig. 2248.

Fig. 2249.

Figs. 2248 and 2249.—Front and Side Elevations of Simple Bedroom Bookshelf.

BEDROOM

     Fig. 2248 shows the front view and Fig. 2249 the side elevation of a bookshelf which may stand on a table or be hung on the wall. The drawers are of the usual pattern and make. A wooden back would strengthen the bookshelf, but for ordinary use the ornamental top A and the piece of backing B behind the drawers is sufficient. Fig. 2250 shows a larger and more highly ornamented set of small shelves with lockers beneath. The shelves and sides may be made of 5/8-in. deal, the outer frame being 3 ft. 4 in. by 2 ft. 4 in. by 6 in. deep, and the pieces may be screwed together for simplicity of construction. The back and top should be of well-seasoned 1/2-in. boards, glued and clamped up together. The outlines of the ornament at the top and at the lower ends of the side pieces should be roughly shaped out, and the ornament applied in gesso. The whole of the ornament may be applied in this way, or, of course, may be carved. The doors of the lockers should be panelled, and hinged at the bottom to open downwards. A coat of white enamel, and, if desired, a judicious application of gold paint or leaf will add a finish to the work.

Fig. 2250.—Ornamented Bedroom Bookshelf.

Fig. 2251.

Fig. 2252.

Figs. 2251 and 2252.—Gesso Ornaments for Bookshelf.

WARDROBE IN

     The wardrobe shown complete in Fig. 2253 is made in four parts—the top two presses and the bottom with drawer—so that it may be quickly taken to pieces. It stands about 6 ft. 6 in. high, 4 ft. wide, and 1 ft. 6 in. from back to front. The top, bottom, and outer sides of the presses are made of 1-in. wood, and the two inner sides of 5/8-in. wood. The top and bottom parts are dovetailed into the outer sides for 1/2 in. of their thickness, and are glued and screwed (see Figs. 2254 and The inner sides of the presses are made only 1 ft. 5 3/8 in. wide, and are kept back 5/8 in. from the front edges; they are nailed to the edge of the top, bottom, and back pieces. On the front edge of one of these is fixed a piece, 5/8 in. thick, 1 1/4 in. wide, and 4 ft. 8 1/4 in. long, to overlap the edge of the other press when the two are close together. The two are fixed in position by three screws. A similar piece, 2 1/2 in. wide, is fixed to the back linings, to overlap and, with screws, fasten the presses together at the back. The backing of 5/8-in. stuff is fixed in the ordinary way, a 5/8-in. rebate being cut in the top, bottom, and side pieces to let it go in flush; the inner side piece is nailed to the edge of it. The top (see Fig. is made in the shape of a frame of wood about 6 in. deep, and having a moulding about 3 in. deep, mitred and glued at the corners, fixed at an angle to the upper part of the front and ends. The top should be about 4 ft. 1 1/2 in. long and 1 ft. 8 in. wide at the bottom edge; while at the top the projecting moulding will be about 4 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. 9 1/2 in. Blocks are fixed on top of the presses near the outside corners to register the top part. The top projects over each end and at the front about 3/4 in. over the doors. The doors of the presses are of 1 1/4-in. stuff, with stiles 4 in. wide, which have a bead run in the centre of each and have sunk panels. They are hung with three 2-in. brass hinges to each door. The doors should be rebated to overlap at the centre, or should have a 3/4-in. half-round piece of wood fixed on one of them for that purpose. A brass pendant on each door, a top and bottom catch on one and a lock on the other, complete them. The sides of the bottom part are pieces of 1-in. wood thickened at front to 1 1/4 in., 1 ft. 3 in. high and 1 ft. 7 1/4 in. wide, with a framework at top and bottom as shown, and a plinth 3/4 in. thick and 3 1/2 in. deep. The back has 1/2-in. linings fixed to the top and bottom frames, which only go within 1/2 in. of the back. These frames are 10 in. apart. Pieces 4 in. wide and 1 in. thick, cut to lengths and mitred and glued at the corners, are fixed to the top of the bottom part so as to project 3/4 in. at the sides and front. The recess made by these is used to keep the two presses in place, blocks of wood being fixed on the bottoms of the presses to fit tightly inside the recesses. The drawer is made in the usual way, 10 in. deep, 1 ft. 6 1/2 in. back to front, and 3 ft. 9 1/2 in. long. The two presses are kept together when in position by screws passing through the back and front overlapping pieces. The wardrobe can easily and readily be taken down by removing the screws. The wardrobe may be made of yellow pine, with red wood panels to doors and drawer front.

Fig. 2253.—Wardrobe made in Parts.

Fig. 2254.—Wardrobe Press.

WITH

     The wardrobe of which Fig. 2257 illustrates the front elevation is 6 ft. 9 in. high, 6 ft. wide, and 1 ft. 9 in. deep. There are three doors, that on the right hand opening outwards, the centre one opening in the same direction, whilst the left-hand one opens also outwards—that is, in a reverse direction from the other two, so that the two left-hand doors meet when closing. Fig. which is drawn to a scale of 3/4 in. to the foot, is a front elevation of the wardrobe complete, with the doors removed, and showing the interior. At the right-hand side will be seen the hooks for suspending clothes, with a sliding tray underneath, which covers a space for soiled linen, etc., suitably covered in front by a board The drawers and sliding trays shown at the left are useful, but should more hanging accommodation be required, a similar space can be reserved at the left (behind the other end door) for the purpose by shortening the length of trays and drawers. Fig. 2259 shows a vertical section of the wardrobe.

Fig. 2255.—Wardrobe Press.

Fig. 2256.—Wardrobe Bottom Framework.

BODY OF

     In constructing this wardrobe the body should be made first. As seen in Fig. it consists of a top bottom and back The thickness of the sides is 3/4 in., whilst the top and bottom need only be 1/2 in., and the back only 3/8 in. The back E should be made up of boards, which should be tongued and grooved together to give a more satisfactory result, and to prevent the dust from entering. The right-hand side is divided from the rest by means of two partitions, F and arranged as shown in the horizontal section and enlarged in Fig. These partitions should be 1/2 in. thick, and made up of boards tongued and grooved together. A piece 3 in. wide, is fixed to these two partitions F and G in the position shown in Fig. thus leaving a space between F and Before, however, these partitions are fixed in position, the various grooves for the sliding trays should be made. The ornamental moulding at the top is made in three pieces, and L 2262 and The top pieces L are jointed at the side as shown in the plan in Fig. a small piece M being fixed at each end so as to keep the ends rigid. The pieces K are made with a front and two sides, the round corners being filled in to the required curvature by means of three or four separate pieces cut out of a solid piece and glued together, a stiffener or batten being fixed at the back for strength if desired. The pieces J are made with a front and two side pieces, the two front corners being fitted in with wedge-shaped pieces with a rounded front, so as to conform to the curvature of the body. Two beads are shown (see Fig. the top one being a small strip semicircular in section, the bottom one being much wider. Either or both forms may be used if desired. Running from front to back at the top is a stiffener, as shown in Fig. A skirting piece o, with a beaded top, runs round the bottom and supports the body.

Fig. 2257.—Wardrobe with Full-length Mirror.

WARDROBE AND

     Fig. 2265 shows an isometric view of one of the longer trays, which measure 3 ft. 10 in. long by 1 ft. 5 in. wide, all the parts of which may be made of pine or other cheap wood if desired. Strips R are fixed at the sides as shown, which slide in grooves provided for them in the partition and side. The sides of the trays are shaped as shown, the front Q being rounded for convenience in handling. No knobs or handles are shown fixed on the front, but these may be used if desired. As the trays are rather long, and the bottom is only thin (1/4 in.), stiffeners S are used, one at the top as shown and one underneath. Two long drawers and two short drawers are shown, the depth of each being 7 in. And there are four trays. The front which covers the receptacle for soiled linen, is made up of two boards 1 ft. 9 1/2 in. long, with two additional pieces, 1 ft. 3 in. long, at each side to stiffen it. This may be secured in position by means of screws from the side and partition. The six clothes hooks are fixed to a rail running round the side, back, and partition. This rail consists of three pieces 1 in. thick, one piece for the back 1 ft. 9 1/2 in. long, and the other two 1 ft. 4 in. long, and all 3 in. wide. Fastened to the back are three battens running from top to bottom, which act as a stopper to prevent the trays and drawers from going back too far.

Fig. 2258.

Fig. 2259.

Figs. 2258 and 2259.—Elevation and Section of Wardrobe.

Fig. 2260.—Horizontal Section of Wardrobe on line Y

Fig. 2261.—Part Section of Wardrobe Door.

Fig. 2262.—Top Corner of Wardrobe.

WARDROBE

     The two outside doors are hinged at the side, the front edges nearest the hinge being rounded as shown in Fig. The outer doors are simply panelled with a semicircular beading running round the edge, which can be glued on. To finish elaborately, the panels may be carved. The middle door contains a mirror which is let in a recess and fixed in position, as shown in Fig. by means of a strip running round the back edge, and finally a backboard, also a beading in front. When the doors are closed, the left-hand door is locked by means of two small bolts let in flush at top and bottom, and the centre one closes and locks into it, whilst the right-hand door locks in a catch provided for that purpose in partition The centre door is not hinged, but has a plate v fixed at the top and bottom with a pin that fits and works in a hole in a plate W that is screwed to skirting and top piece The position which this plate occupies is shown dotted at W in Fig.

Fig. 2263.—Section of Cornice, etc.

Fig. 2264.—Plan of Cornice Moulding.

Fig. 2265.—Wardrobe Tray.

Fig. 2266.—Section of Wardrobe Outer Doors.

WITH

     Figs. 2268 and 2269 illustrate a wardrobe 4 ft. 6 in. wide by 1 ft. 7 in. deep, which can be constructed in birch or ash. Fig. 2269 is a vertical section, showing the internal arrangement of the drawers, tray, and shelves in the left-hand side of the wardrobe, and Fig. 2270 is a horizontal section. First prepare the two outside gables of 7/8-in. stuff. Square them to 5 ft. 10 in. by 1 ft. 5 1/2 in., and rebate the back edges for the back 3/4 in. thick. After the gables are cleaned on the outside, the pilasters should be dowel-jointed to the front edges of the gables, projecting slightly over the outside to break the joint. Two flutes are worked on the face of the pilasters, stopping at the top and the bottom. The carcase bottom of 3/4-in. pine, with a strip of ash glued to the front edge, is flush with the pilasters at the front and lap-dovetailed into the gable ends. The top, of pine of the same thickness, is fixed in the same manner as the bottom, but is kept back at the front so that the doors overlap. The bottom shelf A is of pine, 7/8 in. thick, slipped with ash on the front edge. The ends are let into the gables, the under-side forming a dovetail. The shelf is inserted from the back and glued. The grooves in the gables should have a gradual taper from back to front. They are stopped 1/2 in. at the front, and the shelf is rebated to bring it flat with the pilasters. The centre gable, of pine slipped with ash, is 7/8 in. thick. Square pins are cut on the ends, and let into the bottom shelf and carcase top. A diagonal saw-cut is made in each pin, and a wedge inserted and driven in tightly. The drawer fore-edge B 3 in. by 7/8 in., is fixed to the centre and left-hand gables by means of the sliding dovetail in the same manner as the bottom shelf. Grooves in. wide are cut in the gables to receive the drawer bearers A which are 1 1/4 in. by 7/8 in., and grooved to house the dustboard. The back edge of the fore-edge is also grooved. The dustboard B is a piece of 3/8-in. pine with the edges bevelled and slipped into the grooves in the bearers to keep the dust from the contents of the drawer beneath it. The top shelf C is of the same thickness as the fore-edge, and is fixed in the same manner as the bottom shelf. The pine back is framed up of 3/4-in. stuff, the stiles and rails being 3 1/2 in. wide. A rail 3 in. wide divides the length of the back, while a centre muntin 7 in. wide divides the width. The stiles, rails, and muntin are grooved 1/2 in. to receive the four panels. If preferred, the back could be made in two and joined at the centre gable.

Fig. 2267.—Hingeing Wardrobe Middle Door.

Fig. 2268.

Fig. 2269.

Figs. 2268 and 2269.—Front Elevation and Section of Wardrobe with Side Mirror.

Fig. 2270.—Horizontal Section of Wardrobe.

Fig. 2271.—Wardrobe Drawer Runner.

Fig. 2272.—Section of Plinth.

WARDROBE AND

     The plinth, without the moulding, is 3 3/4 in. deep. The two ends are dovetailed to the front, the back being slip-dovetailed to the ends, and kept 1 in. back from the end. It can be veneered, or clamped with thin ash and mitred at the corners. Pieces of pine 1 1/4 in. by 7/8 in. are glued along the inside of the plinth at the top to form a bed for the moulding (see Fig. For the cornice, a frame 3 in. deep by 3/4 in. thick is dovetailed together in the same manner as the plinth A Fig. 2274 is an elevation of the cornice. It has a filling of pine along the bottom on the inside, forming a bed for the bottom moulding (see Fig. All the other mouldings are planted on the face, sections being given in Fig. A dustboard 1/2 in. thick is fitted in the rebate formed by the top moulding projecting above the pine frame (see Fig. The dentils C are cut out of the solid with a gouge. The bottom moulding of the cornice is 2 1/2 in. wide for fixing to the carcase top.

Fig. 2273.—Section of Cornice.

Fig. 2274.—Elevation of Cornice.

DOORS OF THE

     The mirror and cupboard doors are framed up of 1-in. stuff, the stiles and rails for each door being 3 5/8 in. in width, and a 5/8-in. rebate is worked on the edges. The mirror door is fitted with a bevelled plate in the following manner. When the moulding is mitred and glued in the rebate, put the door face downwards on the bench, place the plate in position, taking care to have an equal margin all round (3/16 in. is sufficient), and glue wedge-shaped pieces of pine A about 2 in. long, at short intervals all round the edges. A pine back B 3/8 in. thick, rebated on the edges and screwed to the door, secures the plate from damage on the inside. The cupboard door is fitted with a 1/2-in. panel, chamfered on the back, and secured on the inside by beads mitred and sprigged to the edge of the door.

Fig. 2275.—Section of Mirror Door.

Fig. 2276.—Chair-caner’s Reamer.

WARDROBE AND

     The tray D is dovetailed together like a drawer, the sides being shaped to meet the front, which is rounded on the top edge. It runs on the shelf beneath it. The two upper shelves are laid on fillets screwed to the gables. The fillets of the shelf above the tray are fixed immediately above the sides of the latter, with just sufficient clearance for the tray to slide easily. The drawer fronts have a moulding mitred round the edges. A thin piece of pine about 1 1/2 in. wide is fixed inside the gable to make up the thickness of the pilaster, and to allow the drawers to run smoothly; c shows this guide in the short drawer.

COMPLETING

     The hook plate E is 2 1/2 in. wide by 5/8 in. thick, the two ends being dovetailed to the back; it stops 1 in. from the mirror door, and is fitted in the hanging space. After the hooks are screwed to the plate the latter is fixed to the gables and back. The doors and drawers are fitted with brass locks and handles, and the doors are hung with brass butt hinges, three for the mirror door and two for the cupboard door. Stops for the doors are glued and sprigged to the centre gable; they are of the same length as the doors. The plinth is screwed from the carcase bottom. When the plinth is fixed in position, tilt back the wardrobe, and fix blocks in the corners of the carcase bottom, so that the carcase can be dropped into its place without any trouble. The same plan can be adopted with the cornice before fixing the dust-board. The mirror plate should not be fixed to the door until the latter is polished.

BEDROOM

     The style of chair for use in bedrooms is generally light and simple, and there is a marked preference for those with caned seats. The construction of a bedroom chair will not present any difficulty to the worker who has mastered the details of the simple wooden chair described so fully on pp. 566 to 570, except with regard to the caning of the seat. This, however, is not a difficult task, and the following instructions on the subject will be found sufficient.

CANE FOR

     The caning or re-caning of chairs is generally done with a species of split rattan cane, varying in lengths from 10 ft. to 15 ft.; it is sold by weight and is of two qualities, known as No. 1 and No. 2. The No. 1 cane measures approximately 1/8 in. in width, and the No. 2 cane 3/32 in. The quantity required will depend on the pattern adopted, and the ordinary six-strand diamond lacing will take about 1/4 lb. for two bedroom-chair seats of the ordinary crown-back, ladder-back, or Oxford-back patterns.

PREPARING FOR

     Before caning can be commenced, 3/16-in. (full) holes must be bored all round the seat frame with a brace and bit or a boring machine. These holes should be 5/8 in. apart, and 5/8 in. from the inner edges. Any staining and polishing of the frames should be done before the caning is begun. The special tool required is a reamer a smooth steel spike, 2 1/2 in. long, tapering from a blunt point to in. at the tang, and firmly secured in a short hardwood handle. A few hardwood pegs shaved from 1/2-in. stuff and about 2 in. long will also be wanted. Soak the cane for twelve hours in a tub of clean cold water, rainwater being preferable; this makes the cane pliable and also prevents cracking and splitting when lacing. The cane will also contract on drying and make a firm, tight job.

Fig. 2277.—First Stage for Diamond Pattern Caning.

CANING

     In the diamond lacing the strands of cane square with the frame are of No. 2 stuff, and those running diagonally are of No. 1 cane. In Figs. 2277 and 2278 each separate line represents a strand, making six in all. In commencing work, place the chair on a bench or table, and pass up a strand of No. 2 cane through the centre hole on the chair front; then pass the other end of the cane up through the next hole, pull up both strands, and get them equal in length. Then cross the seat to the opposite holes and pass the cane down, pull it quite tight, and hold it with the left hand; insert the reamer with the right hand and press down. This effectually prevents the cane slipping until it has been laced to the opposite side, when the reamer should be transferred. Continue the single lacing to the last hole but one, then secure the cane with a hardwood peg and follow the same procedure with the other half of the cane, putting this through the same hole, thus making a double strand to each hole (see Fig. The same operation is then done on the right until the seat is laced from front to back. The second lacing is across the seat from side to side, and is interlaced as shown in Fig. In doing any lacing, always commence in the centre of the seat frame, as this ensures the strongest part of the cane being in the middle of the seat. Secure a loose end with a hardwood peg temporarily, as the next strand of cane passed through the hole will fasten it. The third lacing A is done with No. 1 cane, the lacing going from corner to corner across the centre of the seat, and being interlaced through the squares of double cane as Fig. Next follows the fourth lacing as B this is in the opposite direction to the third lacing (see Fig. and, if the caning has been properly done, will form the diamond pattern.

Fig. 2278.—Second Stage for Diamond Pattern Caning.

BORDER

     The unsightly appearance round the holes is remedied by putting on a border cane. Select a stout No. 1 cane for the border and tie down with a piece of No. 2; double this in the centre and pass through the right-hand corner hole, double together, open the eye and slip the end of the border cane through, then pull down until tight. Pass one end of the tying-down cane up through the next hole but one, then over the border cane and down through the hole again, the border cane being kept straight and free from puckers. Continue tying down at each alternate hole as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. In Fig. 2283 is shown a section of the frame with the tying-down cane over the border. When the whole is laced, allow it to dry slowly, then brush up with a hard bristle furniture brush.

Fig. 2279.—Simple Interlacing of Eight Canes.

OTHER OF

     Another pattern, called the “cross-square,” and shown in Figs. 2284 and is very useful for nurse-chair seats, mail-cart sides, etc., as it makes a very close pattern, and is done entirely with No. 1 cane. It can be worked quicker than the diamond pattern, as the strands are not interlaced so much, and this will plainly be seen on referring to Fig. which shows the patterns for the first and second lacing. Six strands are used as before. Should other designs suggest themselves, they must be carried right through the different lacings, or a broken pattern will result. No varnish or polish is needed for finishing these cane chair seats, as the natural enamel of the cane would be difficult to improve.

Fig. 2280.—Caning Interlaced by Diagonals.

Fig. 2281.—Caning Interlaced by Diagonals.

RE-CANING AND

     These instructions also apply to re-caning old work, as the whole of the cane must be removed and the holes cleaned out before caning can be done. Discoloured and baggy seats can be renovated by well swilling with boiling hot water until the cane is thoroughly wet; then place the work in a strong draught of air to dry, and the subsequent contraction will bring up the seats tight and level. Do not use soda or soap in the water.

Fig. 2282.—Bordering.

Fig. 2283.—Section of Frame with Bordering.

Fig. 2284.—Cross-square Lacing; First and Second Stages.

RE-SEATING WITH OR

     Chairs with rush or cord bottoms may need to be re-seated. To do this, first carefully remove the four thin battens which are nailed on the edges of the seat, and pull off the old rush, dust, etc. The sides of the seat frame are sunk slightly below the corners, so that the work will be flush with the latter when finished. The work is very simple, and proceeds from one corner regularly round to others in succession, terminating in the centre, so that all four sides are worked together, as shown in Fig. A, B, C, are the sides of the seat frame. Have a good coil of cord on a stick, and make the end fast to the leg E (right-hand back corner), pass the coil up and out over then up and out over over C and up and out over then over D and up and out over etc. This will be quite clear from the cord shown loose in the illustration. When pulled up snug and tight and as the work proceeds it will have the appearance at each corner of that at the corner Any joining of the cord or rushes must, of course, be done after a back turn, so that it will come underneath. Stuffing can be pushed in between the upper and lower layers of cord as the work proceeds, and the end which is first hitched to the leg can be knotted and afterwards cut off.

Fig. 2285.—Cross-square Lacing; Finished.

Fig. 2286.—Re-seating Chair with Rush or Cord Bottom.

DINING-ROOM FURNITURE.

THE OF THIS

HOUSEHOLD furniture in great variety has already been treated, and the two remaining chapters will deal with examples of skilled work especially adapted for use in the dining- and drawing-rooms. In many of the examples previously described, glass, plain or silvered, was a feature, and instructions were given at the time for its proper fitting. An opportunity will now be taken to deal with this matter more fully. It is obvious that the particular method employed of fitting glass panes and panels exercises the greatest influence for good or ill on the ultimate appearance of the finished article of furniture. Diagrams which may be studied in this connection appear on pp. 533, 538, 606, 626, 628, 642, 646, 652, and 656. This chapter will also discuss briefly the repairing of furniture. Four styles of glass are fitted into furniture: they are (1) plain with square edges; (2) silvered with square edges; (3) plain with bevelled edges; and (4) silvered with bevelled edges.

Fig. 2287.—Square-edged Silvered Glass in Deep Rebate.

FITTING

     In fitting a piece of square-edged silvered plate—that is, an ordinary mirror—first turn the framing to be glazed face downwards on a table, taking care to have a piece of baize or similar material under the frame. The backboard then must be removed, and in doing so it should be noted whether this is laid on the back or fitted within the rebate. Fig. 2287 shows a deep rebate of a convenient size for silvered glass. Measure the full size of the rebate and have the glass cut accordingly. It should just fill the space comfortably, so that there can be no movement laterally or perpendicularly when the frame is in position, which may be taken as upright. There is, however, nothing to prevent the plate moving backwards and forwards between the backboard and the front, and so blocks or strips of wood must be glued behind the glass to the framing; provided they do not interfere with the backing board, their shape and size are unimportant, and they may be placed a few inches apart. Do not try to fasten the plate down with brads or nails as illustrated by Fig. as that method is very likely to injure the glass. But there is no harm in driving a small brad or wire nail in a similar manner through the glued block. Care must be taken not to let the nail come in contact with the glass. Fig. 2289 represents a shallower rebate than that shown in Fig. being just deep enough to receive the glass without any space for the blocks. If the plates are small, it will be only necessary to fasten the back down. But it would be better to put a layer of soft flannel or a sheet or two of soft paper by way of padding between the glass and the back. If the glass is silvered by the old process, some such precaution is absolutely necessary to prevent the silvering being damaged. The newer process does not require such delicate handling, but the silvering might get injured by contact with the backing board, especially if this is either rough or panelled. Fig. 2290 shows a rebate both wide and deep. As there is no occasion for so wide a margin of glass as there would be were the space to be filled, it is optional whether the glass be cut to fit exactly or not. There is no need to make the glass fit to the fractional part of an inch, but just leave a vacant space both at the edge and behind the glass, which is free to be moved in any direction. Therefore, fasten it in by blocks, as shown in Fig. which bind in both directions. If the space is too wide for the triangular-shaped block to wedge the glass down, the section of the block can easily be altered to that shown in Fig. Fig. 2292 shows a wide but shallow rebate in which the wedge-shaped blocks cannot well be used. It is therefore necessary to use those of rectangular section, which possibly may not require any gluing in, as the glass and backing board will hold them. Fig. 2293 shows the backboard fitted within the rebate, and so the available depth for the wedges is much curtailed. The methods adopted for fixing are, however, the same as given in previous instances.

Fig. 2288.—Bad Method of Securing Silvered Glass.

Fig. 2289.—Square-edged Silvered Glass in Shallow Rebate.

Fig. 2290.—Square-edged Silvered Glass in Wide Deep Rebate.

Fig. 2291.—Securing Silvered Glass with Differently Shaped Block.

PUTTING IN

     The following directions should be observed. Blacken the inside of the rebate against which the face of the glass rests, and also blacken the edges of the glass, which will be more or less rough. If the blacking be omitted, the reflection of the wood will be visible, and the rough edges of the glass will reflect in an unsightly manner, unless they are an unusually long way within the rebate. A mixture of size or weak glue with some gas-black is the best thing that can be used for blacking. Care should be taken to prevent any glue getting on to the back of the plate, for, if allowed to harden, it might, in drying, pull the silvering under it away from the glass, and leave an unsightly blemish.

Fig. 2292.—Square-edged Silvered Glass in Shallow Wide Rebate.

Fig. 2293.—Framed Glass with Backing Board within Rebate.

FITTING

     In fitting square-edged plain glass, such as is used in bookcase doors, wedges or blocks cannot be used, as there is no back panel with which to hide them. The glass, therefore, must fit as accurately as possible within the rebate, where it is held by strips of beading, as shown in Fig. If the glass does not fit quite so tightly as it should, thin strips of wood should be placed in a somewhat similar fashion to that shown by Fig. taking care that they are covered by the beading, which should be neatly fitted and mitred at the corners. The strips should be long enough not to require jointing except at the mitred corners. The beads may be secured with wire nails, brads, or small brass screws with rounded heads. Fastening the beads with glue is a method not to be recommended, as it prevents a broken glass being removed without destroying the beading. Instead of beads, the glass may be fastened in with putty (see pp. 434 and 435), a method which cannot be recommended for cabinet work.

Fig. 2294.—Square-edged Plain Glass Beaded in.

FITTING

     In fitting bevel-edged silvered plates, there should be sufficient glass behind the rebate to hold the plate securely, without too much of the bevel being hidden. It is sometimes argued that the more glass there is behind the rebate, the more secure the plate will be; but this is not correct, as Figs. 2296 and 2297 show. In Fig. 2296 a bevelled plate with a very narrow margin behind the rebate is illustrated, and in Fig. 2297 a bevelled plate with a very much wider margin. It is evident that the glass, being bevelled, is in contact only with the extreme edge of the rebate, and does not lie flat against the bottom, as in the case of square-edged plates. It is therefore unnecessary to have more than just enough glass to hold within the rebate, and 1/8 in. is generally sufficient. Less may do occasionally, but cannot be recommended, and it is safest to order the plate 3/8 in. larger than “sight” size. Thus, if the “sight” size is 1 ft. 11 5/8 in. by 1 ft. 8 1/8 in., order a plate 2 ft. by 1 ft. 8 1/2 in. This allows 3/16 in. surplus at each edge. The edge is seldom perfectly regular, and this extra in. must be allowed as a waste margin for irregularities in cutting the glass. The term “sight” size, or light size, means the surface of glass visible from the front when the plate is fixed, as contrasted with the rebate or actual size as seen from the back. For irregular or fancy-shaped plates, it is best to get the glass cut from a template, which is made by cutting a thin board, or several joined together, to fit in the rebate, and marking the sight size with a pencil. If the backing board is made to fit within the rebate, draw the template on a sheet of paper, which can easily be stretched on the board. Such templates will give exact sight size, but, when sending them to the glass-cutter, it is best to state on them distinctly that the lines give “sight.” When it is practicable, frames to be glazed with bevelled silvered plates should, instead of being laid on a table or bench, be supported on trestles, so that the worker by looking underneath can see that the glass shows an equal width of bevel all round, and that the mitres fit accurately to the corners of the framing. Do not attempt to alter the position of a plate by forcing it with a chisel, screwdriver, or other tool used as a lever, as damage to the plate will most likely result. To get a plate into its right position, a few light blows with the hand on the edge of the framing will be sufficient. The directions regarding plain-edged plates are, on the whole, applicable to those with bevelled edges. When fitting these in, however, it will be found in the majority of cases that blocks, as shown in Figs. and 2293 are the most suitable. The best method is, first, to get the plate into proper position, then, being careful not to disturb it, fit the blocks in dry—that is, without glue—and then, seeing that the position of the glass has not been accidentally altered, glue down the blocks. It is not always necessary to blacken the edges and inside of the rebate in the case of bevelled plates as in plain ones, but no harm can result from doing so. The blocks do not require a high finish; to make them, take a board of 1-in. pine of straight, even grain, and saw a piece about 2 in. wide from one end across the grain. From this shape the blocks by splitting it up into square pieces first, and then diagonally with a knife or chisel. These are good enough for their purpose.

Fig. 2295.—Square-edged Plain Glass Blocked and Beaded in.

Fig. 2296.—Bevelled Glass with Narrow Margin Hidden.

FITTING

     Bevelled transparent plates are fixed in a similar manner to those with plain edges, but the rebate should be narrow. This can easily be arranged when making the frame, if it is then known that the plate is to be bevelled. If the rebate is too wide it will be better to reduce it to the proper dimensions by gluing on continuous strips of wood, as suggested by Fig.

FITTING

     When through some irregularity at the edge a plate will not quite fit, a little judicious paring away of the obstructing wood with a chisel will often do all that is necessary, and is much more satisfactory than trying to chip the glass itself. Careful choice should be made as to which, when fixed, shall be the top or bottom of a piece of glass. For example, in the case of an oblong piece, one end of which will be high up, where it cannot be closely inspected, while the other will be where every defect is conspicuous, it is better to fix the glass so that its worst end, if there is any difference, will be at the top. The chief blemishes found on silvered plates are scratches on the metal or glass, water stains caused during the silvering, and small round bubbles or seeds in the glass itself. But it may be remarked that it is impossible to get an. absolutely perfect piece of glass of any size, though it may be sufficiently good for all purposes of the cabinet-maker.

Fig. 2297.—Bevelled Glass with too Wide Margin Hidden.

MATERIALS FOR

     The dinner waggon illustrated by Fig. 2299 is very simple, and, when finished, should form a handsome and useful piece of furniture, standing 3 ft. 5 in. long, 1 ft. 5 in. wide, and 3 ft. 8 1/2 in. high from floor to top of pediment when castored. These are the extreme outside measurements. The waggon can be made in mahogany, oak, or walnut, and requires the following pieces of timber: Four 2 1/2-in. pillars, turned to sizes and design in Fig. six short rails, 2 1/4 in. by 1 in., for side rails D, Fig. six long rails, 2 1/4 in. by 1 in., for front and back rails under shelves; three 3/4-in. shelf boards, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 3 ft. 4 in.; one piece, 1 1/4 in. by 1 in. by 3 ft. long, for rail A on which the pediment rests; three pieces of 1-in. stuff for frame of glass back Fig. two fret-cut brackets Fig. one piece for moulding Fig. one piece for fret for pediment Fig. two pieces for fret galleries one piece of 3/4-in. bevelled plate (silvered), 1 ft. by 7 in., and some 3/8-in. dowel pins. The materials, cut to the desired sizes and glasspapered down, having been obtained, the construction of the waggon can be commenced.

Fig. 2298.—Framed Bevelled Plain Glass with Rebate Filled up.

Fig. 2299.—Dinner Waggon.

MAKING

     In the two pillars shown in Fig. 2300 where the rails or stretchers come, on which the shelves rest, the wood has been left in the square (5 in. long)—that is, not turned away. On these mark out the position the rails will occupy, starting about 1/2 in. from the bottom of the square and seeing that they come in the same place on both the pillars. Next take three of the short arms D, Fig. and on both ends of these mark out the places where the dowels will come, taking care to place them across the wood diagonally, and not in the same straight line; this gives greater strength to the joint. Two dowels will be sufficient, but three would add to the stability of the job. Within the space marked out on the two pillars for the side arms carefully mark the places with a gauge where the other ends of the dowel pins will come, to correspond exactly with those on the end of the arms. With a twist-bit bore a 3/8-in. hole in each of the spaces marked on the arms and pillars, and glue them afterwards. Into these holes on each end of the arms drive a dowel pin with a mallet, till it stands 3/4 in. in and 3/4 in. out. Then fit the outstanding ends into the holes on the side pillars, cramping the whole up tightly, leaving them so for some little time till the glue has set. Now see that the dowels correspond exactly in arms and pillars; if carefully done they should fit firm and square. Proceed to do exactly the same with the other two pillars and three short rails, then the two ends of the waggon are ready. See that the rails are the same height from the ground in both sets, or the shelves will be slanting down on one side or the other. The same instructions with regard to the three front and three back rails can be observed as with the side ones, taking care that all the rails are in the same plane as those at the side. Cramp all up tightly as before. The framework is now complete, and it should stand firm and square.

Fig. 2300.—End Framing of Dinner Waggon.

Fig. 2301.—Pediment in Pieces.

FITTING ON

     To fit on the three shelf boards, first cut out from each corner squares, where the pillars will come, and mould or cant off the top edges of the sides and front, as this will much improve the finish and appearance. Having done this, lay the shelves in position, screwing them firmly down with a 2 3/4-in. screw from under the rails, or screw them down from above, sinking the screw-heads, and afterwards fixing in buttons over them to hide the heads.

COMPLETING

     Now commence to build the pediment back and fit it on. This is not a necessary feature, and could be left out if desired. Fig. 2301 clearly shows how it is built up. Let the rail A be 1 1/4 in. by 1 in., and cut to fit exactly between the pillars along the back of the job, as shown in Fig. Now take two pieces of 1-in. stuff 8 in. long, as shown at and one piece 1 ft. long for D and dowel them together as in Fig. thus forming three sides of an oblong frame, the whole to be dowelled on to the rail A in the centre, thus forming the fourth side of the frame. As all this stuff is 1 in., these should be fitted up flush back and front. Now fix rail A in position, fastening it on with screws from under the back rail and through the top board, or as before from above, sinking the heads, filling up those which are exposed afterwards with turned buttons. Be careful to have this fixed square and firm, or the glass when put in will cause it to tilt forward.

MOULDING AND

     The piece of moulding (c, Fig. can now be planted on, and on to the top of that the fretwork pediment Also fasten at each side a fret-cut bracket Fig. At the back of the middle and bottom shelf fasten on a piece of 1/2-in. fret 1 ft. 6 in. long, as shown in Fig. to form a sort of rail or gallery; this will improve the appearance of the waggon. (See Fig. Now put in the glass plate, which should be a 3/4-in. bevelled plate, and, to prevent its falling through, glue inside the frame, all round, a small bead, and at the back of this put in the plate, fastening it in with pieces of wood glued to the sides of the frame. Then fasten on a backboard, and all is complete. The appearance of the waggon can be still further improved by fastening small brackets at the back pillars on top of the shelf, as shown at F Now thoroughly glasspaper up all joints, and clean up generally. A set of 1 1/4-in. socket or ring castors should be provided. The waggon is completed by polishing.

Fig. 2302.—Fret Back or Gallery.

CHIPPENDALE

     The cabinet illustrated in front elevation by Fig. in horizontal section by Fig. and in vertical section by Fig. is 3 ft. high to the top of the sash by 2 ft. wide and 1 ft. deep. Shelves can be arranged to suit taste or requirements. The sash is made 3/4 in. thick, finished, and the bars are 7/8 in. thick. To set out the bars properly, the size of the corner squares must first be decided, and in this case they are 4 in., sight size. Allowing for the bars 1/2 in. thick, finished, the distance left will be the distance from A to B The cross bars intersect at right angles, and are at an angle of 45° with the horizontal. The two centre squares in the margin work out in size according to the height of the sash, the centre panel being extended or shortened similarly. The sash is set out on a rod and the bars are mitred, being held together by putting a dovetail cut close up to the square of the rebate as at A and gluing in a thin veneer, forming a key. The bars are glued together and dropped into the sash after the latter has been glued up and cleaned off. The case is formed of 3/4-in. stuff dovetailed together, the back being tongued and fitted to grooves in the sides and bottom. The top is not dovetailed, but is fitted into a groove prepared in the side and glued and nailed. The fixing will be covered by the cornice, which is mitred round the case, the fixing being obtained by inserting screws from the inside. Figs. 2307 and 2308 illustrate details of cornice. Round the inside of the case on the back is fixed a 3/4-in. by 1/2-in. rebated and rounded fillet, which holds a piece of silvered plate glass. The sash is glazed with selected sheet glass or patent plate, and if the work is executed in mahogany it should be stained to imitate rosewood before being polished; if to be ebonised, it may be made in mahogany or basswood.

Fig. 2303.—Chippendale Cabinet.

HANGING WITH

     The hanging cupboard, of which Fig. 2309 shows the front elevation, Fig. 2310 sectional plan, and Fig. 2311 sectional elevation, looks best when made of polished mahogany or walnut, with the raised portions of the panels veneered with walnut burr. A softer wood may, however, be used, such as satin-walnut, or the cupboard may be made of whitewood and enamelled. The sides, two lower shelves, and door framing may be worked out of 3/4-in. stuff, which, when cleaned up, will finish 5/8 in. The back hanging pieces, brackets, and top shelves may be cut out of 5/8-in. wood, and the nosings in front of the shelves of stuff that will clean up to 3/8 in. thick. It is advisable to provide a deal or pine backing for the lock-up portion of the cupboard, as the dust will get in if it depends upon the wall for a back.

Fig. 2304.—Horizontal Section of Chippendale Cabinet.

MAKING THE

     In making the cupboard, the first thing is to prepare the sides, for which two pieces 3 ft. by 9 1/2 in. are required. On these mark the positions of the shelves, the top of the lower shelf being 5 1/2 in. from the bottom, the top of the second shelf 11 in. above the top of the lower one, the third shelf 8 1/2 in. above the second, and the top one 6 in. higher than the one below. The ends of the shelves should be sunk into the sides about 1/4 in., or, if the two lower shelves are brought forward flush with the front, the sinking should be only as deep as the bead in the front, so that the two beads may be mitred as shown in the front elevation in Fig. The pattern may be drawn on the sides (see sectional elevation, Fig. and cut out with the bow or pad saw. The setting-out may be facilitated by covering the side with 1-in. squares.

Fig. 2305.

Fig. 2305.—Vertical Section of Chippendale Cabinet.

Fig. 2306.

Fig. 2306.—Sash and Side of Cabinet.

Fig. 2307.

Fig. 2307.—Cabinet Cornice.

THE OF

     The shelves should be 2 ft. 2 in. long, the back of the lower one being rebated 3/8 in. and the second one reduced 3/8 in. in width for the cupboard backing. In addition, pieces 4 1/2 in. by 1/2 in. should be cut out at the ends of all the shelves at the back to receive the hanging pieces and bottom brackets. To make a good job, the hanging pieces should be rebated into the sides as shown in the sectional plan and detail, and, of course, it will be necessary to get out the rebates with the fillister plane before putting together. Some good glue may now be prepared and the shelves and sides driven together, cramped up, and placed on one side for the glue to set thoroughly. The hanging pieces and brackets are set out in a similar manner to the sides. They should be fixed to the back of the shelves and in the side rebates with glue and 1-in. No. 6 screws. A reference to Fig. 2309 will show that hanging pieces are provided in the lock-up portion for the cupboard doors. These may be 7/8 in. wide, and it is a good plan to let them into the sides and frame them into the shelves when putting the cupboard together. The cupboard door panels may be carved to the design shown in Fig. a section of the carved panel being shown by Fig. Of course, any suitable design may be adapted for the carving; it should be quite simple, and executed in only slight relief. The stiles and rails of the doors should be 1 1/8 in. wide and mortised and tenoned at the corners with the panels grooved in. The method of panelling is shown in the sectional plan. The doors should be hung with 1 1/4-in. by 1/2-in. brass butt hinges, and a small flush bolt and a lock and key provided to complete the fittings.

Fig. 2308.—Elevation of Cabinet Cornice, etc.

CORNER IN

     Fig. 2314 shows the front elevation of an oak corner cupboard. The extreme width from angle to angle, measured across the front, is 2 ft. 6 in., and the total height is 6 ft. In Fig. 2315 an outside angle post is shown which may be either turned or worked square as shown, and square parts are left into which the rails are framed. The face parts of these posts may be relieved with carving. Fig. 2316 is a cross section of the cupboard. The doors are hung folding, with dust-proof joints, on brass ornamental hinges which are screwed on the face of the door. The back post is shown rebated to receive the framing of the two sides which face the wall. The outside edges of the shelves are shaped to an easy line, which will take away the stiffness produced by straight lines. The two sides are shown framed in Fig. and are better than solid sides, preventing cracking, and reducing the weight of the cupboard a little. Fig. 2317 gives a detail of the bottom of the cupboard showing the joint between the door and the framing. The rail will need no relief in the way of carving, but should only be moulded as shown. Fig. 2318 shows the pot-board, or shelf suitable for a large vase. This shelf is supported on 2-in. by 1 1/2-in. cross rails framed into the legs or posts. In Fig. 2319 is shown a section through the pediment. These tops may be purchased already worked. The glass fronts of the doors may be formed out into squares or diagonals. The cross bars should be scribed together as shown in Fig. with a beaded fillet in the back. Bevel-edged plate, if used in the doors, will improve the appearance; it is fitted as previously described. The folding joint of the doors is shown at Fig. for hanging joints see Fig. and for joints at the top and bottom rails see Figs. 2323 and If an antique appearance is required, the cupboard may be fumigated with ammonia, or it may be washed over with a solution of carbonate of potash, and then polished.

Fig. 2309.

Fig. 2310.

Fig. 2311.

Figs. 2309 to 2311.—Elevation Plan, and Vertical Section of Hanging Cup board with Shelves.

Figs. 2312 and 2313.—Elevation and Section of Carved Panel.

Fig. 2314.

Fig. 2314.—Elevation of Corner Cupboard.

Fig. 2315.

Fig. 2315.—Elevation of Cupboard Angle Post.

PLATE CUTLERY

     Good, dry walnut or mahogany should be used in the construction of the cabinet of which Fig. 2325 shows the front elevation with one door removed, Fig. 2326 shows end elevation, and Fig. 2327 shows sectional elevation. The inside dimensions are as follow: Length, 1 ft. 11 7/8 in.; width, 1 ft. 3 1/8 in.; and height, 1 ft. 1 5/8 in. The following quantities of timber are required: For the top, 2 ft. 3 5/8 in. by 1 ft. 6 7/8 in. by 1 in.; bottom, 1 ft. 11 7/8 in. by 1 ft. 3 1/8 in. by 1 in.; moulding, 7 ft. 9 in. by 1 in. by 7/8 in.; framing, 27 ft. 5 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.; panels, 4 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 0 3/4 in. by 1/2 in., and 1 ft. 9 in. by 11 5/8 in. by 1/2 in.; drawer bottoms, 10 ft. by 1 ft. 2 in. by 1 in.; sides, 6 ft. 5 in. by 1 ft. 2 in. by 3/8 in.; drawer fillets, or runners, 10 ft. by 1/2 in. by 1/4 in., and 2 ft. 6 in. by f in. by 1/4 in.; dust fillets, 2 ft. by 3/4 in. by 1/2 in., and 2 ft. by 3/8 in. by 1/4 in. In making, the bottom piece should first be got out square and true, and rebated into the rails of the end and back panel framing, as shown in the enlarged sectional view When that is fixed, a moulding worked to the section is fastened along the bottom edges and hides the screw heads. The back is of 2-in. by 1-in. framing, with a 1/2-in. plain surface panel rebated in. The inner face edges of the framing are relieved with chamfers. The ends are formed of 2-in. by 1-in. stuff, mortised together, and rebated for a 1/2-in. sunk panel. A moulding is worked on the edges of the end framing. The corners of the panel squares are cut 1/8 in. down, and slightly scored. The back corner stiles are jointed together as shown in. the enlarged view, Fig. which illustrates a part horizontal section of the cabinet. The cabinet top is a plain surface piece of 1-in. stuff, with moulded edges all round, as shown in section by Fig. and it is secured to the top rails of the ends and back with screws driven from the under side. The doors are framed from 2-in. by 1-in. stuff, with a 1/2-in. panel rebated in, the ornamentation being similar to that of the end panels.

Fig. 2316.—Horizontal Section of Corner Cupboard.

Fig. 2317.—Bottom Rail of Cupboard.

Fig. 2318.—Section of Bottom Shelf.

Fig. 2319.—Vertical Section through Pediment.

Fig. 2320.—Corner Cupboard Cross Bars.

Fig. 2321.—Door Folding Joint.

DOORS OF AND

     The doors are hung with 3-in. brass butts, and fitted with a lever lock and flush bolts. The dust fillets along the top and bottom edges of the doors form the rebate in which they close, and the thickness of the ends answers the same purpose. The face of the fillets and ends, and the top and bottom edges of the door, are covered with felt of a sufficient thickness just to bind the doors, thus making the interior air-proof. An enlarged detail of these lined edges is shown by Fig. the felt being shown by thick black lines.

Fig. 2322.—Corner Cupboard Hanging Joint.

Fig. 2323.

Fig. 2324.

Figs. 2323 and 2324.—Sections of Corner Cupboard Top and Bottom Rails.

Fig. 2325.

Fig. 2326.

Figs. 2325 and 2326.—Front and End Elevations of Plate and Cutlery Cabinet.

DRAWERS AND OF AND

     The cabinet is fitted with five drawers or trays, 1 ft. 11 3/4 in. long by 1 ft. 2 3/4 in. wide over all. The sides are 3/8 in. thick, dovetailed to the ends, and the bottom is rebated in as indicated in Fig. The trays are illustrated in plan, which shows how they are spaced out for the various sets. Each article rests in two racks cut to fit the handle and reverse end. These racks are covered with green baize or felt and glued into the tray, any exposed portion of the tray bottom being lined afterwards. The knife tray is 1 3/4 in. deep, and divided for twelve large knives, twelve small knives, one bread knife, and one butter knife. The fork tray is 1 3/4 in. deep, and divided for twelve large forks, twelve small forks, one bread fork, two pickle forks, one jam spade, one pair of sugar tongs, and one sugar sifter. The spoon drawer is 2 3/4 in. deep, spaced out for six large tablespoons, twelve small twelve egg-spoons, twelve teaspoons, four knife-rests, four salt-spoons, and a row of serviette rings. The next tray is 1 7/8 in. deep, spaced out for carvers, salad servers, nut crackers, and corkscrew, leaving a space 5 in. wide, which can be used for fish knives and forks, or other articles. The bottom tray, 4 in. deep, requires no divisions, but should be lined with green baize for entrée dishes, soup ladles, grape scissors, salt cellars, etc. The bottom of each drawer should be covered with baize to prevent injury to polished surfaces. Two handles or knobs are required for each drawer, and it is convenient to have small ivory labels screwed on indicating the contents of each tray. Fillets, 1/2 in. by 1/4 in., are grooved into each end of the cabinet; on these the drawers slide (see Fig. The fillets should be fixed with screws. A detailed view of the fillets is given. The cabinet is mounted upon four feet the bottoms of which are covered with felt. When constructed, the cabinet should be glass-papered, any nail or screw holes stopped, and the whole polished.

Fig. 2327.—Section of Plate Cabinet.

Fig. 2328.—Part Horizontal Section of Plate and Cutlery Cabinet.

Fig. 2329.—Moulded Edge of Plate Cabinet Top.

COMBINED AND

     The construction of the combined side-board and bookcase illustrated by Fig. 2337 should be carried out in hard wood as far as concerns all parts that show, but the inside parts may be of pine, as free from knots and shakes as possible; American walnut is very suitable. The top over all is 4 ft. 8 in. by 1 ft. 8 in., and is of 3/4-in. stuff. All measurements given are for finished work. This must be remembered when cutting out the various parts. For the base, two pieces are required for front and back uprights, one 4 ft. 7 in. by 4 in. by 3/4 in. for the front, and one 4 ft. 5 1/2 in. by 3/4 in. for the back, the latter being of pine. Have also two hardwood sides 1 ft. 6 1/2 in. by 4 in. by 3/4 in. The two front corners are mitred, and secured by blocks inside the corners. The two sides run right back over the ends of the back piece, and two pieces, 1 ft. 5 in. long, 4 in. deep, by 3/4 in., run on the edge from front to back, and the front top piece is 4 ft. 6 1/2 in. by 3 in. by 3/4 in. The sides are 1 ft. 6 in. by 3 in. by 3/4 in., the back being 4 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 3 in. by 3/4 in., including 1 in. on each end for the dovetail joint into the sides. The two stretchers are 1 ft. 2 in. by 2 1/2 in., 2 in. of the length also being for dovetails. All this top frame may be pine, but the front and sides must have a slip of hardwood, 3/4 in. by 1 in. wide, glued along the outside edge, and rounded off as shown in Fig.

Fig. 2330.—Bottom of Plate Cabinet Bottom Rail.

Fig. 2331.

Fig. 2332.

Figs. 2331 and 2332.—Knife Tray and Fork Tray.

Fig. 2333.

Fig. 2334.

Figs. 2333 and 2334.—Spoon Tray and Carver Tray.

Fig. 2335.—Tray Runners, etc.

Fig. 2336.—Plate Cabinet Corner Support.

Fig. 2337.—Combined Sideboard and Bookcase.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE

     Fig. 2339 fully shows the construction of the base. The sides of the cupboards are 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. wide, 1 ft. 10 1/2 in. high, and 3/4 in. thick, the two centre ones being of pine. The uprights carrying the doors are 1 ft. 10 1/2 in. high, 2 1/2 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick; across the top inside is carried a piece of pine, 2 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in., on which the doors butt, and to carry which a piece is cut out of the top front corner of the two inside divisions. When these are in place, cover in the bottom with 1/2-in. pine, and frame in the back in the ordinary manner, running a piece across the top back as in front. The door frames are 11 1/2 in. wide, 1 ft. 10 in. high, and 3/4 in. thick, and are made from stuff 2 in. wide, rebated 3/8 in. to take the panels, which are thus 8 1/2 in. wide and 1 ft. 7 1/2 in. long, and can be made of pine, veneered with a figured wood. This improves the appearance, and enhances the value of the finished article. The cupboards and base are now in one solid piece, the sides being screwed on from underneath by a dozen 2 1/2-in. screws, three to each division; and the drawers and bookcase are made complete in themselves. This detachability will be found a great convenience in moving the furniture, and in other ways.

Fig. 2338.—Section of Combined Sideboard and Bookcase.

UPPER OF

     In proceeding with the upper part the four long pieces are got out 4 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 3 in. by 3/4 in., the two front edges being faced with strips of hardwood 1/2 in. wide. The four front upright blocks are 6 1/2 in. high, 2 1/2 in. wide, by 3/4 in. thick. The eight cross pieces are 1 ft. 2 in., including 2 in. for joints, by 3 in. by 3/4 in. The two centre uprights are of 1/2-in. pine, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. long by 5 in. high, but the two ends are carried right back from the front blocks over all, and are thus 1 ft. 5 1/2 in. long and 6 1/2 in. wide by 1 in. The back is closed in with 3/8-in. pine as shown in Fig. The dimensions of the two small drawers are: Fronts, 11 1/2 in. wide, 5 in. deep, of 3/4-in. stuff; sides, 1 ft. 3 in. long, 4 3/4 in. deep, by 3/8 in.; back, 11 1/2 in. wide, 4 in. deep, by 3/8 in., the front and sides being rebated to take the bottom. The centre drawer dimensions are the same except in regard to the width, which is 1 ft. 11 in. When made, insert the drawers in their places, allowing them to go in 1/2 in., and mark the positions of the guides and stop blocks at the back. A slip of 1/2-in. quarter-round moulding is placed round the drawer fronts and under the top above the drawers, and also round the door panels; it must be neatly mitred at the corners.

Fig. 2339.—Sideboard Base Frame.

THE OF THE

     The bookcase side is 3 ft. 8 in. high, 9 in. wide, by 3/4 in. The base (pine, with hardwood edge and mitred corners) is 2 ft. 3 1/2 in. by 9f in., and 3/4 in. thick, with a rounded edge. The top is the same size, and carries a projecting piece 3 in. wide, with moulded edge. The carved centre piece and rail round the cornice are shown in Figs. 2342 and the turned pillars being 1 1/2 in. high, and the corner pieces 1 in. square and 2 in. high, with 1 1/2-in. turned knobs on top. The reeded rail is 1 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick. The centre is 5 in. high and 1 ft. long, and the carving can be done with the gouge. The side is rebated to take the bottom shelf of the bookcase, 4 1/2 in. from the bottom, the rebate being 3/4 in. wide, and stopped 1 in. from the front edge; above this shelf the side is only 8 3/4 in. wide to allow the doors to come flush. The doors are 3 ft. 2 in. long, 1 ft. 1 in. wide, by 3/4 in., and are framed of stuff 2 in. wide, and rebated to take the glass panels, which fit in from the back, and are held by slips all round. The dimensions of the stationery drawer are: Front, 2 ft. 0 1/2 in. long, 4 1/2 in. deep, by 3/4 in.; sides, 7 1/2 in. long, 4 1/4 in. deep, by 3/8 in.; back, 2 ft. 0 1/2 in. long, 4 in. deep, by 3/8 in. The side frames for the panels are 1 ft. 2 1/2 in. long, 1 1/4 in. at each end being for the mortises, 1 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in., and the inside upright is 1 ft. 2 in. high, 1 1/2 in. wide, by 3/4 in., the outside upright being 1 ft. 6 in. (allowing 1 1/2 in. for the rounded top), 1 1/2 in. wide by in. Before finally fixing, put the frames in position and mark off a rebate for the panel, 1/4 in. deep, all round the bottom part, and also one the same depth round the top to take the glass, mount, and photos, or another panel if preferred. The panels are 6 in. high and 1 ft. 0 1/2 in. long. The shelves are 1 ft. 2 3/4 in. long, 5 in. wide, by 1/2 in., and are screwed through from the back, and through the side of the bookcase, being carried by turned pillars The pillars are 1 1/4 in. square and 7 3/4 in. high, and are dowelled at the top and bottom. There are eight of the small corner pieces (see Fig. two from the bookcase, two from the back frame, and two from each pillar.

Fig. 2340.—Sideboard Drawer Frame.

Fig. 2341.—Section of Bookcase.

Fig. 2342.—Bookcase Top.

Fig. 2343.—Part of Carved Centre-piece.

Fig. 2344.—Pillar and Carved Corner-piece.

Fig. 2345.

Fig. 2346.

Figs. 2345 and 2346.—Front and Side Elevations of Grandfather or “Cheek” Easy-chair Frame.

Fig. 2347.—Seat Frame.

GRANDFATHER OR

     The frame illustrated by Fig. showing front elevation without “cheek,” and by Fig. showing side elevation, is for what is generally known as a “cheek,” or “grandfather” easy chair. It is stuffed all over, the only parts of the framework seen being the legs. Mahogany or walnut is suitable for the legs, and birch could be used for the other parts of the frame. Fig. 2347 shows a plan of the seat frame, and Fig. 2348 shows the pattern of the front legs, which are 2 3/4 in. thick, and are turned to fit cup castors at the bottom, and mortised for the front and side rails, keeping them flush on the outside. The ends of the front legs should be kept 1 in. above the top edges of the rails, where the stumps A meet them. The back legs are made up in two pieces spliced at B by means of glue and screws. Make a mould of thin pine for the back leg, line out on wood 1 3/4 in. thick, and cut out to the shape. After dressing up to the size, grip the back legs together and mark them for the mortises, the positions of which are shown in Fig. The front rail, side rails, and back rail are 2 1/4 in. wide by 1 1/2 in. thick. The back stuffing rail c 1 1/2 in. wide by 1 1/4 in. thick, is tenoned to the back legs; it should be flush on the inside. Allow a space of 2 in. between the top edge of the bottom rail and the bottom edge of the stuffing rail. The shaped top rail is 1 1/8 in. thick, tenoned to the back legs, with a rebate on the top. The top edge should be well rounded over. The back legs are tapered on the inside to 1 1/2 in. at the bottom. The back may be cramped together after mortising for the side rails. The front legs and rail should next be fixed together. A half-plan of the seat should be drawn full size to obtain the shoulders for the side rails. Set a bevel stock to the required bevel for marking the shoulders. The tenons are square with the shoulders, and the rails should be made flush on the outside. The shaped stumps A cut out of 1 1/2-in. wood, are dowelled to the top of the front legs. The stuffing rail c is housed into the stump, and glued and cheek-nailed; it is fixed to the back leg in the same manner, and should be 2 in. away from the top edge of the seat rail. The arm rail is 2 in. wide by 1 1/2 in. thick, and is dowelled to the stump and back leg. The upright stuffing rail D is housed into the bottom stuffing rail and arm rail, and cheek-nailed; it is 3/4 in. distant from the back leg. The cheeks E are cut out of 1-in. stuff, and shaped to the sizes given in Fig. It is let into a rebate cut in the arm rail and screwed. The top of the back leg is also rebated to receive the cheek. The inside edge of each cheek should be well rounded over. Fig. 2350 shows a section of the arm rail. The seat of the frame is 1/2 in. higher at the front than the back. The frame is now in a condition for upholstering.

Fig. 2348.—Front Leg of Easy-chair.

Fig. 2349.—Back of Easy-chair Frame.

Fig. 2350.—Section of Easy-chair Arm Rail.

Fig. 2351.—Extending Dining Table.

Fig. 2352.

Fig. 2353.

Figs. 2352 and 2353.—Side and End Elevations of Extending Dining Table.

     It is outside the scope of this book to give detailed instruction on upholsterer’s work. A special treatise is necessary to deal with this branch profitably, and nothing more than a few hints on the work can be given here (see p. 703). But readers desirous of doing their own upholstery will learn all they require to know on the subject from a handbook which the Editor of has now in course of preparation.

Fig. 2354.—Half Plans of Extending Table.

Fig. 2355.—Leg, etc., of Extending Table.

Fig. 2356.—Part Plan showing Table Framework Extended.

EXTENDING

     The extending dining table shown by Fig. and of which Figs. 2352 and 2353 illustrate side and end elevations respectively 2354 is a half plan of table), is simple in construction, and should be of mahogany, oak, or walnut. The legs can be obtained ready turned, or, if preferred, can be turned from stuff about 5 in. square. The outer rails for the framework may be solid, or the outside portion may be of 1/2-in. stuff glued to a backing as shown. The inner rails or slides and the two cross rails should be of hardwood, such as beech or birch. The screw can be obtained from any large furnishing ironmonger. In constructing the framework, first plane the stuff to the sizes given, and then set out the mortises of the legs and the tenons of the rails, as shown in Fig. The mortises for the inner sliding rails are farther from the front edge of the legs than those for the outer rails, as shown in Figs. and The slides should be ploughed from their top edges, 1 in. wide and 1/2 in. deep. This groove can be made with a 1-in. plough-iron, or with a rebate plane by fixing a piece of wood at the right distance parallel to the top edge. A piece of hardwood should be planed so as just to fit in the grooves, and should then be firmly glued into the groove of the inner rail. The moulding on the bottom of the outer rails o 2357 and should next be fixed with glue and screws. The cross rails A and B 2356 and should be dove-tailed to the sliding rails; B to the inner rails, and A into the projecting moulding, as shown in Figs. 2354 and Care must be taken in making these dovetails, or the rails, not being parallel, will prevent proper working. When all the joints fit properly, those between the legs and the rails, and between the cross rails and the latter, should be glued together, keeping the legs and rail square. The cross rails should also have a couple of screws inserted, as shown in Fig.

Fig. 2357.—Framework of Extending Dining.

Fig. 2358.—Section of Sliding Rails.

TOP OF

     The top must be of well-seasoned material. If it can be obtained in about 1-ft. 6-in. widths, each half will require only one joint. The leaves are also 1 ft. 6 in. wide The top should be dowelled and glued, and the under-sides of the top and leaves trued up. Next join together the two portions of the permanent top and the two leaves, and dowel them with hardwood pins about 3/8 in. in diameter, projecting about 5/8 in. (see Fig. The whole top should then be turned bottom side up and the framework stretched out to its full length, as shown in Fig. and fastened to the two permanent parts of the top by screws inserted obliquely, as shown in Fig.

FIXING AND

     The screw and barrel should now be fixed, the handle end of the screw being secured to the end rail of the table. The box in which the screw works, and which holds one end of the barrel, can be fixed to the cross rail B 2356 and the other end of the barrel being secured to the under-side of the top; it may be necessary to fix a wood block to the under-side of the top for this purpose. Next tighten the screw a little so as to hold the top firmly together, plane the top and leaves, and work the moulding round the edges.

Fig. 2359.—Dovetail between Cross and Side Rails.

Fig. 2360.—Corner of Table Leaf.

Fig. 2361.—Chiffonier Sideboard.

COMPLETING THE

     The thicknessing fillet shown in section by D with a small bead worked on one edge and the other rounded, should next be prepared. It should be mitred at the angles E and F 2354 and and fixed with glue and screws. It is best to have the two side pieces long enough to reach from end to end, thus taking in the two leaves; then cut with a fine saw where the joints of the leaves should occur, as shown by and K A stop L and prevents the framework moving too far. The table when closed is 6 ft. long, and will extend to 9 ft. with two 1-ft. 6-in. leaves. It would be firmer if it extended to 8 ft. 6 in. only, the leaves being 1 ft. 3 in. wide. This would give the sliding rails a lap of 2 ft. instead of 1 ft. 6 in. In Fig. A is a half plan looking up, and B an ordinary half plan with the top removed.

Fig. 2362.

Fig. 2363.

Figs. 2362 and 2363.—Side and Half Front Elevations of Chiffonier Sideboard.

Fig. 2364.

Fig. 2364.—Section of Bottom of Chiffonier Sideboard.

CHIFFONIER IN

     The chiffonier sideboard illustrated in Fig. 2361 is designed with a view to portability. It is made in five parts: the stand A the cupboards the drawers and the glass back and cornice The extreme height from floor to top of centre ornament is 7 ft., and extreme width over nosing of sideboard top 4 ft. 7 in. Fig. 2362 is a side elevation, and Fig. 2363 half front elevation; these are to a scale of 1 in. to a foot. Fig. 2364 is a section of the bottom part of sideboard, showing moulding of doors, panels, etc., drawn quarter full size. Fig. 2365 gives half plan of bottom, showing the deal framing, also the method of attaching the legs. The scale of this figure is 1 1/2 in. to the foot. To construct the sideboard, make a frame of 2-in. by 1 3/4-in. deal as A 2364 and 4 ft. 4 3/4 in. long by 1 ft. 6 in. wide, with cross-rails in the position shown. From centre to centre of the cross-rails, and from the front to within 3/4 in. of the back edge of the frame, must be covered with mahogany 1/4 in. thick, as shown in Figs. 2364 and A strip of mahogany, 1 1/2 in. wide, is planted on the remaining part of the front rails of the frame. The rest of the frame is made up level with strips of deal 2 in. wide, with the exception of the 3/4 in. left at the centre of the back. The edge of the front and ends of the frame should be made straight and square.

LEGS OF

     The legs are 6 in. long, 3 1/2 in. wide, and 1 1/4 in. thick. The front corner legs are mitred lengthways, and a tongue is grooved into them. Fig. 2365 shows how the legs are connected to the frame by shouldering and screwing. The legs should project 5/8 in. from the frame when fixed, and the space between them should be filled up with 5/8-in. mahogany, with two reeds as shown at C The brackets (see Fig. are then screwed into the frame and leg. They are made from 5/8-in. mahogany, and are kept back 1/4 in. from the face of the legs.

Fig. 2365.—Half Plan of Bottom Framing.

SIDEBOARD AND

     The two cupboards are next taken in hand. The framing of the end and door is of 3 1/2-in. by 1 1/4-in. mahogany, moulded as shown at D The panels E are of 7/8-in. mahogany, moulded and raised; the width of the side frame is 1 ft. 5 in., and of the door 1 ft. 6 1/2 in.; the height of both is 2 ft. The side of the cupboard towards the centre of the side-board is formed of 7/8-in. mahogany, or of yellow pine veneered. This side is to be 3/4 in. narrower than the panelled end. The back stile of the panelled end should be rebated out 3/4 in. square to take the back. The top and bottom are of 1/2-in. pine dovetailed into the plain side and stiles of the panelled side, while the rails of the panelled side are rebated to suit. The door is hung on the panelled side; and an ordinary box lock on the plain side, with the catch fixed to the door, will prevent disfigurement with a keyhole. Four small corner pieces are nailed on the bottom of the cupboard to fit exactly in the space F to prevent the cupboard moving when placed on the stand. The back, which is of 1/2-in. matchboard, should cover only half of the plain side edge to form a rebate for the back of the centre opening. The shelves may be to suit the maker’s fancy; three in the left cupboard and one in the right, high enough to take a bottle underneath, will be found convenient. They are of 1/2-in pine. Ledges must be screwed across the cupboard inside to carry the shelves.

FRAMES OF

     The back of the centre opening consists of a frame of 3 1/2-in. by 3/4-in. mahogany, rebated to receive a plain panel of 1/4-in. mahogany. This fits into the 3/4-in. rebate left in the bottom and plain sides of the cupboard, and is kept in place by two brads on each side at the back. Another frame, similar in external dimensions to the one made for the bottom, but of 2-in. by 1 1/4-in. deal, with two cross-rails of 3-in. by 1 1/4-in. deal, 1 ft. 5 1/8 in. from outsides of frame to centre of rail, is shown in part section at G also a top frame of the same external size, but of 2-in. by 1 1/4-in. deal, with one cross-rail in the centre, is shown at H These two frames are connected on the front edge by the uprights, in. by 1 1/2 in., a mahogany strip between the drawers being mortised into them, keeping the frames 4 1/4 in. apart inside. The faces of the uprights are kept 3/16 in. in front of the deal framing, and flush with the drawer fronts, to avoid showing the joint of deal and mahogany strip carried round under the drawers. Matchboard 1/2 in. thick is nailed on the back of the frames to keep them at the right distance apart, and also to form a finish for the back. A strip of mahogany, 1 1/4 in. by 5/8 in., with one reed, is carried round the front and two ends of the bottom frame, as shown at K Pieces to the width of centre uprights, and of a width to fill the remainder of the space at the ends, and 3/4 in. thick, are nailed to the four cross-rails of the bottom frame, and form guides for the drawers.

Fig. 2366.—Section of Side Glass and Panel.

Fig. 2367.—Chiffonier Shelf.

SOME OF THE

     The cornice moulding is mitred round the top frame front and each end Fig. The drawer fronts are of 7/8-in. mahogany; the sides, back, and bottom are 1/2-in. yellow pine. The top of the sideboard is of mahogany, 1 ft. 7 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick, moulded as shown at N it is fixed by screws along the front edge, and by buttons at each end, and to the cross-rail and back. Nail corner pieces on top of the cupboards to fit openings in the frame, in the same way as for the bottom frames. The two brackets in the centre opening are screwed in flush with the inner sides of the cupboard when the doors are opened. Fig. 2366 gives a section of the glass back (half size). The brackets and shelves are attached by screws through the back. The brackets are fixed on centre stiles only. Fig. 2367 gives a pattern for the shelf. If desired, a second shelf might be fixed over the side mirrors, the bracket being put on the outside stiles only.

THE

     The pediment may be made separately, and attached by screws to the frame over the centre glass. Two wire dowels are driven in the bottom rail of the back, and fit into two holes bored in the sideboard top. Two brass “ears” are attached to the back of the frame, between the top of side brackets and cornice, to form a means of fixing the back to the wall. The side brackets are of 3/4-in. mahogany, and are kept 1/4 in. back from the face of the framing, into which they are fixed by screws. As the moulding and general style of this sideboard are of an old massive type, it will be inadvisable to use bevelled silvered glass. The following would be more suitable: One best silvered plate, 2 ft. 8 in. by 1 ft. 10 1/2 in., and two, 1 ft. by 1 ft. 2 in. These sizes allow a margin all round the rebate, which should be fitted with several wedge-shaped pieces glued in as shown at Fig. A thin back is then screwed over all to keep out dust, etc.

REPAIRING

     In the repairing of broken furniture, first examine thoroughly the article, and, having decided how it is to be dealt with, get all tools and materials ready before beginning operations. If the article is to be glued and screwed, bore the holes and turn the screws into their places before any glue is put on; if handscrews or clamps are to be used, see that suitable ones are provided, and try them in the places they are intended to occupy; and, if wedges or bevel blocks are required, have them in readiness. Take the article to pieces, glue up with hot thin glue, and put together again, and the result should be satisfactory. It must not be forgotten that glue will not hold unless the surfaces of the wood are in contact.

SCREWING UP

     A well-fitting screw, wherever possible, is the best thing with which to mend broken work. But dowels, or nails and screws, are sometimes used. When driving in dowels, there is always a tendency to drive the joined surfaces apart, however well they may be secured, and this accident is inevitable if the dowels touch the bottom of the holes; while on the other hand a screw is always pulling the surfaces together. Care, however, should be taken to use screws of a size proportionate to the work, and, within reason, the finer the screws are the better; because the larger the number of threads that are forced into the wood the better will the screw hold.

REPAIRING

     The method of repairing the backs of the old-fashioned dining-room chairs, that have a broad flat back fitted by a dovetail on the top of the sides, is an illustration of the use of unsuitable screws. When these backs work loose, they are usually repaired with glue and with a screw driven through the back of the upright; generally about a 3/4-in. No. 9 or No. 10 screw is used. When the backs work loose again and are taken off, it is found that the screw has penetrated the back for about 1/4 in. and is holding with only two or three threads; these break out with such little force that they are practically useless. If, however, a No. 5 or No. 6 1-in. screw is used, and is bored carefully in, coming as near the front as safety will allow, it will be found that there is a 5/8-in. hold instead of 1/4 in., with perhaps seven or eight threads instead of two; and a much neater as well as stronger job is the result, the small head of the screw being carefully countersunk and neatly filled up. Again, screw-holes should be bored so as to fit the neck as well as the thread of the screw, for if this is not done the screw will always have a tendency to work loose; the same care should be taken in making holes for nails. For work of this kind small half-twist bits are very useful.

REPAIRING

     If the article to be mended has any curved framing, such as easy-chair seat frames, etc., care must be taken to get them well up at the joints. Pieces are very frequently found glued in where cramping nicks have been cut when the frame was made; these should be knocked out, and the cramp put in the nicks to draw them well up. Many frames are, however, framed up with a band cramp, no nicks being required. In such cases some frames are cut when repairing. Strike a line across the joint, and cut two pieces out of the rails in such a position that the pull of the cramp will be directly through the middle of the joint (see Fig. The letter references in this figure are: A position of nicks to cramp on back foot position of nick to cramp front foot to side rail.

Fig. 2368.—Chair Seat Frame.

DOWEL IN

     In re-framing work of this class, take care that the dowel holes are deep enough, and that the dowels are not too long, for in the cheap goods now so common it will frequently be found that the dowels touch the bottom of the holes, and prevent the joint going up close. If after every effort the joint still gapes somewhere (which it frequently will through not being properly cut at first), fit a small wedge and glue it tightly in, so as to prevent any working of the joint, for it is the presence of these little spaces that causes the frames to twist about, leading ultimately to broken dowels and similar accidents.

Fig. 2369.—Marking out Cabriole Leg.

SUBSTITUTES FOR IN

     Occasionally in a very bad case a well-fitting plate or square may be necessary as an auxiliary to other methods, but the common plan of screwing a plate that does not fit over a joint that does not touch and filling up the rest with glue is worse than useless. If the fracture is concealed from sight, as in a stuffing frame, a better plan than using a plate is, after gluing and screwing, to well glue the joint, and wrap it round with a piece of strong canvas saturated with hot thin glue, and well rub down with the hand. This will dry nearly as hard as the wood, and will defy almost every effort to get it off again. In splicing, or otherwise fitting on pieces, it is an excellent plan, after doing as much as possible with the chisel, etc., to scrape the surfaces the way of the grain with a fine sharp toothing iron. This not only roughens the surface and gives the glue a better hold, but if carefully done removes ridges and humps and gives a truer and more even face to the joint, care being taken, of course, not to work it out of truth. For holding pieces on while the glue is drying, handscrews of various sizes are generally used, but for small work a handier tool is a small thumb-cramp, of the same shape as the G-cramp illustrated by Fig. 109, p. 29.

CUTTING OUT

     Among the jobs that are often considered difficult are the cutting out and fitting of new cabriole legs to chairs, etc. (see Fig. The job is not nearly so difficult as it looks, though much care is required, and the details of the operation must be well mastered before any beginning is made, or good stuff may be wasted. The first thing required is a correct mould. To make this, procure a good clean picture-frame backboard, free from knots and shakes. Lay the chair on its side, or in the most convenient position, and carefully trace on the board the line of the existing leg, testing it by setting up the square against the leg in several places, and seeing that it comes down on to the line of the pattern. Then cut out the pattern with a sharp chisel or knife, and trim up neatly. It is a good plan to glue a piece of fine canvas over one side of the mould, and trim it off when dry; this will allow it to be bent into hollows and curves without fear of snapping. A waste strip of blind union will answer the purpose. A front leg, being the simplest, as only one mould is required, may be first taken as an example. Having got out the mould, select a square piece of scantling of the required size, or a piece of plank of the necessary thickness, remembering that one angle of the square will form the front, and the other the back of the leg, and arranging any flaws, etc., accordingly. Then place the mould on one side of the piece, strike it out, and saw out with band saw or frame-saw. If the latter is used, it is well to square a line over and mark it out again on the bottom side to ensure square sawing. Then place the pattern on the other (cut) side and mark out the other lines, making sure that the same angle is kept for the back; a mistake is very easily made here by taking one of the outside edges. This, when sawn out, will give a leg in the rough. The back angle will now, with perhaps a little planing, fit into the space between the ends of the front and side rails.

Fig. 2370.—Cabriole Leg Dowelled on.

Fig. 2371.—Angle-iron and Chair Cross-bar.

FITTING ON

     It is by far the better plan in putting on a new front leg to cut away the old tenons, fit the leg into the angle, and then dowel in, springing the frame open to allow the dowels to enter. The leg should be cut (carved and shaped) and nearly finished before being put in, leaving only a little cleaning off to be done last. A back leg is, of course, more difficult, as two moulds are required, one for each face, and the stay and top must be arranged for; but the principle is the same. The seat rails should be fitted first, then the stay, and the height cut off last. Care must also be taken to get the leg upright, which can be tested by measuring from back foot to front, etc., trying the new one by the old. This remark applies also to the front legs. A method of procedure of putting on a cabriole leg when the chair is well made and properly blocked is as follows: The broken leg and tenons may be cut away, leaving the rails held in position by the block. The leg is then fitted into its place, and two dowels are bored into the end of the front rail, and a dowel hole downward and backward through the lower part of the side rail and out on the under edge of the rail at the curve just behind the leg. The holes in the foot are next bored, and the leg is cramped on to the front rail; then, with the cramp on from back to front, a dowel is bored at A through the stuffing square above the carving into the side rail, the hole in the bottom edge of the rail being continued into the leg with a ratchet brace, and a dowel at B driven through the rail into the leg, making a sound and neat job without any difficulty. If a ratchet brace is not available for jobs of this kind, and an ordinary brace cannot be used, a handy substitute may be made by fitting a hardwood cross-handle on to the top of the twist-bit and converting it into a temporary worm auger, a bit of twine being twisted over the handle and round the neck of the bit to assist in drawing the bit out.

Fig. 2372.—Chair Ball Foot.

REPAIRING

     Up to somewhat later than the middle of the seventeenth century it was the rule that chairs should be tied by cross-bars mortised into the legs near the ground; and rough usage and exposure will often cause these mortises to work loose. Provided the wood is sound, the joint may again be made firm by driving in one or more thin glued wedges. If moisture has lodged in the joint, and tenon and mortise are alike tender, still drive in wedges to tighten the joint, but in addition screw an angle-iron beneath the cross-bar; this, if let into the wood, will scarcely be seen, especially as it must be painted to match. Such irons may be used with advantage for strengthening other work, as the upper frames of tables, etc.

Fig. 2373.

Fig. 2374.

Figs. 2373 and 2374.—Chiffonier Door Stud Hinge, etc.

RENEWING OF AND

     The smaller tables, as well as chairs, joint-stools, etc., commonly stand on ball feet, and these may become defective. To substitute new feet is, however, a simple matter. The original limbs are sawn off, as in Fig. and holes are bored as shown, and in them the shanks of new ball feet, turned to match the old, are glued.

TREATMENT OF

     Nails are sometimes thoroughly rusted into the wood. Should the nail come out leaving a clean hole, a mere stopping of coloured putty—putty kneaded with vandyke brown or burnt umber—may suffice. If it is difficult to get a good grip on these old nails without bruising and disfiguring the surface, it is better to sink a hole round the head with the gouge till a firm hold can be obtained. The hole so made can be readily trimmed to shape, and a fresh piece of wood let in and glued, due care being given to direction of grain, etc. Indeed, when a screw from the front seems desirable to strengthen any crazy piece of old work, it will be found that to countersink deeply, and to hide the head in this manner, is the best thing.

Fig. 2375.—Part of Chiffonier Door.

REPAIRING OR

     Repairing a chiffonier door where the stud hinges have been broken off, and there is a difficulty in removing the upper part, is a rather awkward job, though it may be accomplished in the following manner: Fit two pieces of well-seasoned English elm at the upper and lower corners of the door; these should be slightly dovetailed as shown in end view at C Each piece is secured with two screws A 2373 and from the inside. The new studs B are then let in and screwed to these pieces, but they must occupy the original position. The screws are next taken out and the dovetailed pieces withdrawn and slipped in their positions C in the chiffonier frame, hot glue being applied to the joining parts, and the door is slid over the dovetails. The screws will then house in well, and this completes the job.

Fig. 2376.

Fig. 2377.

Figs. 2376 and 2377.—Part of Leather-covered Table Top.

     In re-covering a writing table top, first clean off the old leather covers and well smooth the surface with glasspaper. For roans, moroccos, and leather cloths, make a paste of rye-flour and boiling water, stirring well to keep it free from lumps, and for oilcloths use hot, thin glue. Cut the leather rather larger than the space to be covered, then paste the top, rubbing well in with a stiff brush and picking out lumps. Next warm the leather before a fire or stove, place it on the table top, and, commencing in the centre, with a cork pad work out the wrinkles and puckers to the ends and side. Continue stroking until the leather lies quite flat, then dress it off with a sharp, thin-bladed knife and lay down the edges. For thin leather cloth a rubber-covered squeegee is even better than the cork pad. For oilcloth the process is the same, but hot thin glue is used as the sticking medium. Start smoothing in the centre and keep the hands clean. No advantage will be gained in wetting the cloth, and if paste is used it should be as thick as starch. Writing table tops having leather centres usually are constructed as in Figs. 2376 and which show a section and plan respectively, the moulded rim being mitred round the centre and fixed with a ploughed and tongued joint. The rim stands 1/16 in. bare above the centre, so that when the leather is laid it will lie flush. The rim is cleaned off flush with a small piece of the leather to be used in covering. The best covering is tanned sheepskin (levant is the trade term), but for common work good American oilcloth can be employed, this having a linen back and being capable of folding without cracking; a cracked material could not be tolerated.

STRAIGHTENING

     To straighten a round table top that is warped across the centre, first remove the top from the pillar, turn it face downwards, and sponge several times with clean water. Then apply heavy weights or pressure at its highest points for several days, frequently damping the unpolished part. Water should not be allowed to remain on the polished portion. To prevent the top going back again, glue and screw several strengthening bars across.

DRAWING ROOM FURNITURE.

INTRODUCTORY

THIS chapter will give designs and instructions for making many of the more important articles of furniture that find their place in the sitting-room, parlour, and drawing room. Taken as a whole, they are not difficult examples of work, while in most cases their design is pleasing and appropriate, and their construction will be found a pleasure by the handyman who has worked through such a graduated course as this book has endeavoured to present.

Fig. 2378.—Centre Whatnot.

CENTRE

     Fig. 2378 is a general view in perspective, Fig. 2379 a vertical section, and Fig. 2380 an illustration of a back pillar of a large centre whatnot of light appearance but strong construction. The design is suitable for execution either in walnut or mahogany, and is shown to be made in the solid. The shelves are quadrant-cornered with breaks, and may be left plain, or inlaid to either of the alternative designs shown in the two half plans The height to the top shelf is 2 ft. 9 1/4 in., the length over all 2 ft. 6 in., and the width 11 in. The shelves are of 5/8-in. stuff, and are lined up underneath with rails of 3/4-in. by 2 1/4-in. section, which give an appearance of solidity and also prevent the shelves warping. The end pieces which run across the grain in the shelves should be slot-screwed—that is, after the holes are bored through the lining piece for the screws, a small slot or mortise is made across the hole in the direction of shrinkage of the stuff, and the edges of the slot should be slightly chamfered to allow the head of the screw to slip easily. No glue should be employed with the end pieces, but the front lining may be glued as well as screwed on, as shown in Fig. The quadrant corner of the lining should have the grain running as shown in Fig. when its shrinkage will not affect the joints; nor will it prevent the top shrinking. These pieces also may be glued on. A full-size drawing similar to Fig. 2379 should be set out as a preliminary to the construction; it is unnecessary to draw in the details of the pillars, as a pattern of these must be prepared separately for the turner, unless a stock pattern is used, in which case the pillars should be obtained first, and the rod set out to suit. The shelves are spaced differently in Fig. 2379 to give more accommodation for various sized vases, etc., and also improve the appearance. The expense will be a little more, as pillars of different length are required. If the shelves are to be inlaid, the stringings should also be obtained before beginning, as they vary in width, and a suitable scratch must be made for the grooves. It will not be necessary to set out a plan, as one shelf may be prepared and used as a pattern for marking the others.

Fig. 2379.—Cross Section of Whatnot.

Fig. 2380.—Fretted Back Pillar of Whatnot.

Fig. 2381.—Half Plans of Whatnot Shelves.

Fig. 2382.—Front Edge of Whatnot Shelf.

MAKING

     The procedure in making the shelves may be as follows: Cut off, and with a trying plane true up the shelves and various pieces to the given dimensions, gauging all to thickness; then, taking one of the shelves, shoot its best edge and plane the ends square to the given length; then gauge to width. Next strike out the quadrant corners with a 6-in. radius, at 7 in. from the end and front, to give a 1-in. break. This marking should be done on the under-side so as not to damage the face. Then cut off to the line with a bow saw, and clean up with a chisel and spokeshave square. Mark the centres for the pillars at 2 in. from the edges, and square the point over to the front edge. Also mark on the back edge equidistant from the ends a 3-in. slot or recess for the back pillars. Of these an upper one is cut out of 1/2-in. stuff, finishing about 3/8 in., and this amount should be gauged on each face between the marks on the shelf. Then place the shelf in order, face up on the others, mark the lines on their edges, and successively the outlines of the first on the other two; treat these like the former, and, if the shelves are to be inlaid, prepare a scratch tool of suitable width and run it round the edges as far as the design permits, finishing the remainder, after it has been set out, with chisels or gouges as may be most convenient. The grooves should be a shaving less in depth than the thickness of the strings. Having completed the stringing grooves, mould the edges, a plane or a scratch being used for this. The front edge should be treated first, then the ends, the round corners, and finally the breaks, the latter being worked with gouges into mitres with the running moulds, as shown in Fig. The strings may now be grooved in; fill the grooves with glue, and rub in the string with the face of a hammer. The curves, squares, etc., are best inlaid first, and the straight lengths made good to them when the glue is dry. The faces may be smoothed up, but not papered for the present; but the face must not be damaged in the subsequent operations. Next prepare the linings, glue on the corner pieces at the proper distances from the edge, cut the other pieces between, and fix them. Cut out the back end for the fretted pillars, as shown in Fig. and bore 3/8-in. holes for the front pillars, obtaining the position by squaring the marks over from the shelf.

Fig. 2383.—Underneath View of Shelf Corner.

Fig. 2384.—Foot of Whatnot.

Fig. 2385.

Fig. 2386.

Figs. 2385 and 2386.—Sections of Music Canterbury.

WHATNOT

     The pillars may next be fitted, the dowels of the turned ones being cut to length; see that they go down to the shoulder square. The back pillars must now be prepared, and a drawing may be made and a tracing taken of it and transferred to the wood, first chalking the latter, and then going over the tracing, reversed, with a lead pencil. The design being repeated, all that is necessary is to set out on the stuff the thickness of the three shelves, as shown in Fig. testing the distances by means of the length between the turned ends of the front pillars, keeping the line A A on the tracing to the top side of the shelves. The back pillars are continuous from top to bottom. A deeper square will be shown on the top end of the fret in the lower shelf, but as this cannot be seen in the ordinary position it will not matter. The frets being prepared, notch them out to fit the shelves and fix them with screws. The top fret, which is shown sufficiently in Fig. may now be prepared, and can be fixed with three screws from underneath.

PUTTING

     All should be fitted together dry, and when correct knocked apart, glasspapered up, and french-polished. When dry, scrape off any polish that may be on parts to be glued, and glue all together, commencing at the bottom; glue in the turned pillars, lay the carcase on its face, and glue in the fretted pillars. Try the back for squareness, and then turn it upside down and fix in the castor pillars. When these are dry, glue and fix the fret rail on the top, and fit on the castors when the article will be complete.

MUSIC

     The wood required for making a music canterbury, as shown in section and front elevation by Fig. is: One piece, 17 in. by 8 1/2 in. by 3/4 in., for the base A and the two ledges B in Fig. one piece, 12 in. by 8 in. by 3/4 in., for the six stiles; one piece, 16 in. by 4 in. by 1/2 in., for the middle rail C one piece, 14 in. by 5 in. by 1/4 in., for the four rails in Fig. two pieces, 17 1/2 in. by 4 in. by 1/2 in., for the two base supports one piece, 12 in. by 4 in. by 1/2 in., for the two end pieces F and one piece, 57 in. by 3 in. by 1/4 in., for the slanting crossbars in Fig. This last piece is estimated on the supposition that two bars are got out of one width, the curved parts of one bar coming opposite to the straight part of the other. This principle has already been discussed. All the dimensions given (except thicknesses) allow a margin for working. Fig. 2385 is a section through the base showing the middle leaf, but omitting the framed side leaf beyond. In constructing the middle leaf the part A is tenoned into the ends of the stiles, the curved terminals of the stiles being notched to allow the ends of C to pass through. A much neater appearance will be secured if the mortises are made blind, so that C does not completely pass through them. The ends of the rails D are let into mortises. about 1/2 in. deep. When this leaf is framed up it is ready to fix to the base this is best done by making double bare-faced tenons at the lower end of each stile, as the joints should be as strong as possible. The side leaves may be dealt with in a similar manner. To find the position for the pieces it will be best to mark out full size the rectangular area bounded by the inside of the frame. A vertical line is then drawn through the centre and bisected. The point so found is the centre of the middle bar, and through it a line is drawn at 45°, which will be at right angles to the direction of the bars. The width of the middle bar is laid off on the slanting line, half on each side of the central point first found. From each edge of the middle bar, distances of 1 in. are marked off—four on each side, to give widths of spaces and remaining bars. Lines drawn at 45° through these points will mark out the straight parts of the bars. In working the curved parts they may all be clamped together and worked through as a whole. The two ledges B are screwed on the bottom of the base A to strengthen it, and are placed where they are invisible. If preferred the ledges may be fixed as dovetailed keys, but in this case the moulding on the edges of the base would need to be planted on afterwards. As shown in Fig. the moulding is stuck on the base. If, however, the moulding is planted, it would be better to tongue the side pieces E into the base A rather than make the plain butt joints shown where the connection to A is made by dowels. The ledges B may be got rid of altogether by tonguing cleats on the ends of The ends F should be housed into the side pieces E and strengthened by glued blocks inside. A firmer base may be secured by splaying the pieces E outward to about the same extent as the pieces In fixing the parts together the bars in the side leaves should slant in opposite directions, and the curves of the pieces E and F should be placed in opposition to each other. The kind of wood to be used may be settled according to taste; but if the cabinet is made of ash, stained green and polished, a good effect would be obtained. The curves may be marked by ruling lines across the printed figures at even distances apart, and measuring on the scale the lengths of the portions cutting the curves. These being set out full size will indicate the course of the curves, which then may be cut.

Fig. 2387.—Side Leaf of Music Canterbury.

Fig. 2388.

Fig. 2389.

Fig. 2390.

Figs. 2388 to 2390.—Front and End Elevations and Vertical Section of Music Cabinet.

MATERIALS FOR

     The music cabinet of which Fig. 2388 shows front elevation, Fig. 2389 end elevation, and Fig. 2390 vertical section, is 3 ft. 4 in. high, 1 ft. 6 in. wide, by 1 ft. deep. The lower part has a sashed door, the part above being fitted with a drawer. The top is moulded along the front edge and ends, and is surmounted by a dwarf balustrading forming a gallery; at the bottom is a plinth cut and shaped to form four feet. The interior is fitted with five shelves, and the work may be executed in wainscot-mahogany, walnut, birch, or ash. The material required, with allowances for tooling, is as follows:—Two ends, 3 ft. 1 in. by 1 ft. by 7/8 in.; bottom, 1 ft. 5 1/2 in. by 11 in. by 1 in.; top, 1 ft. 7 in. by 1 ft. 0 1/2 in. by 3/4 in.; five shelves, 1 ft. 5 in. by 10 1/2 in. by 4 in.; one division, 1 ft. in. by 11 1/2 in. by 1 in.; back, 2 ft. 8 in. by 1 ft. 5 in. by 1/2 in.; bottom rail, 1 ft. 5 in. by 3 3/8 in. by 7/8 in.; top rail, 1 ft. 5 in. by 1 in. by 7/8 in.; plinth (one), 1 ft. 7 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., and (two) 1 ft. 1 in. by 2 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; drawer fronts, one, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 5 in. by 3/4 in., and another, 3 ft. 9 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 5/16 in.; drawer bottom, 1 ft. 4 in. by 11 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; two drawer sides, 11 in. by 5 in. by 1/2 in.; drawer back, 1 ft. 4 1/2 in. by 4 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.; drawer blocks, one 1 ft. 4 in. by 3/4 in. by 4 in., and two 11 in. by 3/4 in. by 1/2 in.; two fillets, 11 in. by 7/8 in. by 3/4 in.; two sash stiles, 2 ft. 3 in. by 2 in. by 7/8 in.; sash rails, one 1 ft. 4 in. by 2 in. by 7/8 in., and another 1 ft. 4 in. by 2 5/8 in. by 7/8 in.; gallery rail, 3 ft. 6 in. by 1 in. by 3/4 in.; nineteen balusters, 3 in. by 7/8 in. by 7/8 in.; two glazing slips, 1 ft. 11 in. by 3/8 in. by 1/2 in., and two 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. by in. by 1/4 in.; twelve glue blocks, 2 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 1 1/2 in.; and a piece of clear sheet-glass, 1 ft. 10 in. by 1 ft. 1 1/4 in. by 32 oz. Also one 3 1/2 in. brass drop drawer handle; one pair of 3-in. machine-made brass butts; one 2 1/2-in. brass cut cupboard lock (left hand); one fancy brass escutcheon plate; 1 1/2 doz. 1 1/4-in. No. 8 screws; and 1/2 doz. 1-in. No. 7 screws.

Fig. 2391.—Rebate and Grooves in Top and Side.

MAKING THE

     Fig. 2391 is an enlarged detail of rebate and grooves in top and side. Fig. 2392 shows a part inner view of side, and Fig. 2393 gives an enlarged part vertical section. First prepare the two ends. Face these and thicken them to 7/8 in., shoot the best edge for the front, and gauge to 12 in. wide, then cut off one end square, and shoot it perfectly straight. Set a gauge to 3/8 in., and mark it on both sides to form a shoulder to the dovetail 3/8 in. long on the end. Form a groove 1 in. wide on the inside face of the end, this groove being stopped 7/8 in. from the front edge. Now set off from the shoulder line a distance of 2 ft. 8 1/2 in. and form a groove here, stopping it from the front edge 7/8 in. Now set a gauge 1/2 in., and mark down the back edge and on the inner face, and rebate out for the back. On the front edge gauge 1/4 in., the depth of the rebate, and 7/8 in. on the inner face to receive the sashed door; the rebate will stop at the under-side of the division. Stick a 1/8-in. bead on the inside edge as shown, and chamfer the outer edge, stopping it at the ends. These must be worked exactly alike, but right and left-handed. Next face up the bottom, and shoot the best edge; thickness it to 1 in. Gauge it to width, cut each end square to length, and form a tongue on the front edge from the lower face.

Fig. 2392.—Inner View of Music Cabinet Side.

Fig. 2393.—Part Vertical Section of Music Cabinet.

MUSIC

     The piece for the division is faced up and gauged to 1 in. thick. The shoulder on the end of the division is diminished, the longest point being on the under-side, where the rebate occurs. Details show the groove in which the division must fit, and the bottom tongued to the riser or bottom rail; the latter is mitred to the bead on the rebate of the end, and is held in position by the tongue on the bottom and by screws driven through the lower part of the end, the screws being covered by the plinth. Before fixing the bottom rail it should be cut to shape. The top rail over the drawer is mitred and fixed between the ends. Next prepare the top and gauge it to 3/4 in. thick, shoot the front edge, and get it to width; cut the ends square, and on the under-side set out two dovetailed grooves. The grooves must be stopped 1/2 in. from the front edge. Rebate out the back edge to receive the back, stopping the rebate at the groove at each end. The top may next be moulded on the front edge and ends. Then set out and cut the grooves 1/4 in. deep for the shelves on the inner face of the ends. When the shelves are prepared, clean up the work, glue it together, and let it stand while the sash and drawer are being made.

Fig. 2394.—Music Cabinet Balustrading.

MUSIC

     For the sash, face the two stiles and rails. Get them to size, and set out the stiles for the mortises and the rails for the tenons, the sight line between the mortises being 1 ft. 9 1/2 in., allowing 1/4 in. at each end for the depth of the rebate and sticking of moulding on the stiles. Allow 7/8 in. for width of tenon, and splay the haunching as shown; the length between the shoulders on the rails is 1 ft. 1 1/4 in., that including the depth of the rebate at each end. Fit the sash and glue it, and fit it, when dry, into place. Hang it with brass butt-hinges, and put on the cupboard lock. Particulars of the way in which the joints are made and stiles and rails prepared need not be given here, these matters having already been described.

Fig. 2395.

Fig. 2396.

Fig. 2397.

Figs. 2395 to 2397.—Front and Back Elevations, Cross Section, and Plan of Combined Organ Bench and Music Cabinet.

MUSIC AND

     Prepare the front of the drawer as shown with a moulded margin planted on the face to form a sunk and moulded panel. The front itself will be 5/8 in. thick when finished. Fit it into the opening, and take the sides and gauge them 5 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick. Cut them square at each end, the back being of the same length as the front. Cut dovetails in the sides and pin on the front and back as shown. Plough the lower inner edge of the drawer front and side 5/8 in. up, and make a 3/16-in. groove to receive the bottom, which will be 1/2 in. thick. Form the tongue on its front edge and ends as shown, and glue the drawer together, sliding-in the bottom. Put three screws along the back edge of the bottom into the back and glue in the blocks. Now clean off the face of the drawer, and mitre round the 1 1/4-in. by 1/4-in. margin which has been prepared. It must be glued on and held in position by hand-screws until thoroughly dry, when it may be cleaned off and finished. Next put on the handle and prepare the boards for the back. Plough the two edges which come together, and put in a small tongue which, in case of shrinkage, will keep out the dust. Screw the boards into the rebate and prepare the plinth, Work the moulding on the edge as shown, and cut it to shape, mitring the two front angles. These may be glued on, and extra fixing obtained by screws through the inside of bottom rail. For balustrading, an enlarged detail of which is shown by Fig. get the capping to the required width and thickness, and work the moulding on both edges. Mitre this together to fit the top exactly to the square of the moulding, and return the two ends in front. Get the balusters with pins on both ends turned and polished in the lathe. The cabinet should be finished by french-polishing.

Figs. 2398 and 2399.—Cutting Wood for Organ Bench Cabinet.

Fig. 2400.

Fig. 2401.

Figs. 2400 and 2401.—Fixing Brace Rail of Organ Bench Cabinet.

COMBINED AND

     An organ bench with a separate music cabinet that can be opened without requiring the performer to rise from his seat is shown in back and front elevations by Fig. in cross section by Fig. and in plan with the seat removed by Fig. The wood should be of the same kind as that used for the organ or harmonium; about 10 ft. each of 3/4-in. by 11-in. and 1/4-in. by 13-in. will be required, and the most economical method of cutting it is shown by Figs. 2398 and 2399 for the 3/4-in. and 1/4-in. stuff respectively. The two ends or standards B may be screwed together and cut out simultaneously, the screws being inserted in the waste portions. The centre-bit holes should first be made, and by reversing and cutting from the opposite side as soon as the spur of the bit penetrates, all splintering is avoided and a smooth hole results. Before sawing out and, consequently, separating the sides, the position of the mortises for the tenoned rail C must be marked on each outside surface. Two methods of fixing this rail are shown in Figs. and one needing a wedge or cotter N through the projecting tusk tenon, and the other having glued and wedged tenons, their flush ends being concealed by a 3/4-in. by 1/4-in. reeded strip P planted afterwards. Both the rail C and the bracket D are housed 1/8 in. into the standards and fixed by glue. The front panel F of the bench is housed, but not glued, into the standards, and is rebated into the brace rail to which it is glued and sprigged. It is secured to a top rail by a couple of screws in slotted holes, to allow for contraction. The two 1 3/4-in. rails on which the seat rests, are checked out, the tops of the standards being suitably recessed, and then secured by glue and a couple of round-headed iron screws at each end. The perpendicular strips Q on each side of the cabinet are glued in the rebate and fixed by angle-blocks. The music cabinet is made entirely of 1/4-in. stuff, the front being fretted to the same pattern as the bench panel. All corners to H, and G are mitre dovetailed, the division L being housed into the ends, the reeded strips O on the front effectually concealing the dovetail joint. A cupboard turn should now be fitted, and the cabinet hinged to the rail after which the stops K should be glued to its sides.

Fig. 2402.—Fixing Brace Rail of Organ Bench Cabinet.

Figs. 2403 and 2404.—Front and End Elevations of Music Stool.

COMPLETING AND

     When the polishing is completed, pieces of sateen or other suitable material should be fastened inside the frets, and the seat A screwed to the rails. If, however, it is not intended to upholster the seat, the appearance of these screws would be objectionable, and if only to allow for subsequent access to the interior, a preferable method would be to secure the seat by four picture plates sunk in and screwed to the ends of the rails To provide an alternative design for the panels, etc., where a fret-saw is not available, centre-bits may be usefully employed, as shown to the right of Fig. All parts in the illustrations are similarly lettered, and Figs. 2395 to 2397 are to a scale of 2 in. to 1 ft., Figs. 2398 and 2399 being 1/2 in. to 1 ft., and Figs. 2400 to 2402 4 in. to 1 ft.

MUSIC WITH

     The material used for making this music stool, of which Figs. 2403 and 2404 are front and end elevations respectively, is clean kauri pine. For the sides and ends of the frame, plane up two pieces 22 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in., and two 11 3/4 in. by 6 in. by 1/2 in. Next make a template, by drawing the outline of Fig. 2405 on stout cardboard, and cut out, allowing an extra half-inch at the top, and omitting the tenons. On this half-inch glue a strip of wood on each side to act as a stop. To obtain the correct angle for the end, drop a perpendicular line 16 3/4 in. in length, as the dotted line shown in Fig. then 1 in., measured at right angles, will give the point where the end of the leg will come. This template will be found to give the pattern for the whole of the outline of the frames, except the centres of the ends, which can be drawn with compass and straightedge. Cut the outline with a bow saw, but notice that parts of the scrolls are merely incised so that they may not be weakened unduly. The tenons are cut 1/2 in. long, 7/8 in. wide, and 1/4 in. thick, flush with the front surface of the frame. All the tenons on the front and back are cut as in Fig. and those on the ends as in Fig. By this means the mortises do not run into one another, and it is possible to give more length to the tenons than otherwise. Get out the legs 17 in. by 1 in. by 7/8 in., tapering to 3/4 in. by 5/8 in. at the bottom; set the gauge to mark the mortises 1/4 in. from the outside faces, so that the surfaces of the frame will be 1/4 in. back from those of the legs. The joints should be a tight fit.

Figs. 2407 to 2409.—Plan, Elevation, and Section of Half Handrail.

Figs. 2410 and 2411.—Corner Pillar.

Fig. 2412.—Music Stool Seat Frame.

MUSIC

     The two handrails and are 9 3/4 in. by 2 3/4 in., and as the dowels are cut on the ends, 10 1/2 in. will be the length required for each. They can be got out of 7/8-in. wood, worked to the section shown in Fig. Figs. 2410 and 2411 show end and front details of corner pillars. The pillars at the ends of the rails are 1 in. by 7/8 in. at their bases, and should be marked from a tin template similar to Fig. to get them all four alike; the carving required is very simple. The stool top is 23 1/4 in. by 12 3/4 in. by 5/8 in., with an ogee moulding run round 3/8 in. from the edge.

MUSIC

     From beech or ash, 1 1/4 in. by 3/4 in., construct a frame upon which to build the stuffing, having outside measurements of 19 1/2 in. by 11 in. Put the frame and legs together to ensure a correct fit, and plane off the edges to get a flat surface for the seat to rest upon. The handrails are dowelled to the end pillars, as shown in Figs. 2408 and then a dowel is fixed in the base of each pillar, put through a slot cut in the stool top, and finally sunk into the top of the leg. Further fix the seat by screwing ledges inside the front, back, and ends, and attaching buttons to the seat to engage them. Fig. 2413 is a detail of music stool leg with inlay. Take all apart, and stain and polish. A thin wash of indigo, when the colour of the wood is brought out by the polish, will give a satisfactory green for the leaves. Make all the colours used a trifle brighter and more intense than required, as the subsequent operations tone them down. Glue and cramp up, and give an extra polish with the spirit rubber. On the frame build up a double-stuffed seat 4 in. high in the centre, with a firm smooth roll 2 3/4 in. high at the edges and hanging over 1/2 in. Cover with any of the ordinary materials, such as tapestry, Roman satin, etc., of a shade to harmonise with the other furniture and draperies. Fix this stuffed part on by four screws with washers under them, working in slots cut in the stool top, and the stool is finished. Figs. 2407 to 2411 and 2413 are drawn to half-size; Figs. and 2412 are drawn to a scale of 1 1/2 in. to 1 ft.

Fig. 2413.—Inlaid Leg of Music Stool.

MUSIC WITH

     Figs. 2414 and 2415 show front and end elevation of music stool respectively. The stool should be made of mahogany, hard straight-grained stuff being necessary for the legs, which should not be less than 1 in. thick when finished, and must be free from shakes. They must be cut so as to bring the top edge of the rail 1 ft. 5 in. from the floor, and when they are finished the front and back rails, also of 1-in. board, should be got out. They are first cut 1 ft. 6 in. long, 1 1/2 in. at each end being tenoned into the mortise of the legs (see Fig. A being a section of the long rail, and B a section of the leg). The rails are then 1 ft. 3 in. long, and when cut to shape, the front and back may be glued and cramped up. The short rails are 11 in. long, and the same thickness as the other rails. If mortised and tenoned, they would cut the tenon of the long rails, besides weakening the joint materially. It is best, therefore, to use dowels, as shown at C Beech dowels can be purchased in 3-ft. lengths at 6d. per dozen, and those used in this case should be 1/2 in. thick. They should go into the ends of the rails for 1 1/2 in., and into the legs for 3/4 in., thus doubly securing the long rails. (Dowel making and the process of fitting dowelled joints are described on pp. 185 to 188). Two turned rails are required, also 11 in. long, not including the 3/4-in. by 3/8-in. pins left at each end to be fitted into the centre of the scroll-shaped tops of the legs (see Fig. After gluing and cramping, a bottom may be fitted into the box opening, which is 1 ft. 3 in. by 11 in., this being the size suitable for ordinary sheet music. The bottom is of 1/2-in. board, neatly fitted and secured with a few sprigs, then glue-blocked underneath. Scrolls are carved in the centre of the lower edge of the short rails, as shown in Fig. The shelf is of 3/4-in. board cut to the shape shown by Fig. a thumb mould being worked on all four edges. It is then fitted to the legs, 4 in. from the floor, by being cut out at the corners 1 in. by 1 in., and secured by screws through the legs. The screw heads should be sunk 1/4 in. below the surface, and the hole filled with wood. Glue should also be used to steady the joint.

Fig. 2414.

Fig. 2415.

Figs. 2414 and 2415.—Front and End Elevations of Music Stool with Turned Rails.

MUSIC

     The seat frame is next made of whitewood or pine, or if hard wood is preferred, birch or beech is most suitable. It is of 2-in. wide by 3/4-in. thick material, the size being 1 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 2 in. The joints are halved, glued, and screwed. English webbing should be stretched as tight as possible, and tacked on the upper side, as shown in Fig. A good quality canvas is then tightly stretched and tacked over the webbing, and a rib of 1-in. square wood screwed on all round for the padding. This is done by tacking a strip of canvas, 4 in. wide, round the outside of the frame, putting flocks on the rib, and covering with the canvas. This should be tacked to the inside of the rib, and stitched round with a 6-in. double-pointed upholsterer’s needle, using a suitable twine that can be obtained for the purpose. Fig. 2419 shows the method of stitching. Hair should be used for stuffing. It should be first well teased out, as it will then retain its spring, and keep the cushion soft, and it will not get flat as when flocks are used. The hair is then covered with strong calico or canvas, tacked to the edges of the frame, and when this is done, a sheet of wadding must be laid over, and the final covering put on. Crimson silk plush or Utrecht velvet is suitable for this. The tack heads are then covered with a gimp to match, small-headed gimp pins being used for securing the gimp. The underside of the seat should be covered with a twill lining material of suitable colour, which is stretched tightly and tacked on. A strip of mahogany 5 ft. long by 1 1/2 in. wide by 1/2 in. thick, with one edge rounded, should be worked on round the under-side of the seat. It is mitred at the corners, and screwed on, but should first be polished, as this is not conveniently done when fixed, and the stool is handier for polishing with the seat off. It will look best if finished a dark colour and polished. When the polishing is finished, the moulding can be put on the seat, which is fixed to the back long rail with brass butt hinges.

Fig. 2416.—Rail and Leg Joint.

Fig. 2417.—Music Stool Shelf.

Fig. 2418.—Seat Frame Webbed and Padded.

Fig. 2419.—Stitching Seat Padding.

ROUND WITH

     Fig. 2420 shows an elevation of an ordinary music stool with a rising top The stool itself consists of a circular top B 1 in. thick, 12 3/8 in. in diameter at the top, and 13 1/4 in. at the bottom. Its central hole is 1 1/16 in. in diameter. This top is supported by four 2-in. legs, 1 ft. 2 3/8 in. long, excluding the tenon shown in Fig. The circle containing the centres of the holes for the legs is 10 3/4 in. in diameter, the tops of the holes being covered by buttons, as shown at The legs, which are octagonal at are connected by two spindles (see Fig. 8 3/4 in. long, excluding tenons. They are halved together where they cross (see Fig. and form a support for the centre column This column is about 9 1/2 in. long and 2 1/2 in. in diameter, and is fixed by a long stout screw underneath, and at the top by three screws passing through the flange of a brass socket piece which is fitted through the central hole (see Fig. Fig. 2425 is an enlarged section showing the flange (2 in. in diameter) of the socket resting in a slight recess in the top B of the stool, E being the centre column. The centre of this column is hollowed to within 2 1/2 in. of the bottom to take the nut (see Fig. the bore being about 1 in. full. The square-threaded screw is 7/8 in. bare in diameter, the shank, 3 3/4 in. long, being encircled by a brass tube. At the top of the spindle is an oblong plate 2 1/2 in. by 3 in., to which the spindle top is riveted. This plate is secured to the underside of the rising top by four screws. A section of the rising top is shown by Fig. and an underneath plan by Fig. This top consists of five pieces 1 in. thick, tenoned together, the rivet head of the screw resting in a recess provided for the purpose. At the bottom of these pieces are six curved pieces forming a circle. The top is stuffed with flock and covered with leather. The buttoning comes through the under canvas and is tacked to the sides of the pieces The length of the screw should be adjusted so that when the top is screwed right down the bottom of the screw just clears the bottom of the hole, and when the top is raised only the brass part N should be seen.

Fig. 2420.—Round Music Stool.

Fig. 2421.—Horizontal Section of Music Stool.

Fig. 2422.—Music Cabinet Leg.

Fig. 2423.—Music Cabinet Bottom Spindle.

Fig. 2424.—Plan of Music Stool Top.

Fig. 2425.—Section of Music Stool Top, etc.

Fig. 2426.—Music Stool Centre Column.

Fig. 2427.—Section of Music Stool Rising Top.

HAMLET

     The hamlet seat of which Fig. 2429 is a front elevation and Fig. 2430 a side elevation of frame may be made of walnut or some other dark-coloured wood, or of birch or beech stained dark or ebonised; soft woods, such as pine or whitewood, are unsuitable. The four legs are each 1 1/4 in. by 1 in. in section when finished; therefore, in marking out, allow 1/8 in. each way for dressing and smoothing. A pair of legs can be sawn from a sound board 3 ft. 3 in. long by 8 in. wide, as shown in Fig. Dress the legs with a spokeshave and smooth them with a scraper and glasspaper. The legs are fastened in the centre with brass chair-rivets, 2 3/8 in. long by 3/8 in. thick, and each pair is stretched by a turned spindle about 1 ft. 9 in. long by 1 1/4 in. thick, a hole being bored in the inside of each leg 6 in. from the bottom to receive the spindle end, which is secured by gluing. The cross framing (see Fig. consists of two plain spindles of rounded dowel wood, 1/2 in. thick and 1 ft. 5 1/2 in. long, and two centre-beaded rails 3/4 in. by 1/2 in. thick; between these two rails four or five wood spindles, 2 in. long by 3/8 in. thick, are spaced equally, and are secured by turned tenons at each end, fitting into holes bored in the inside edges of the beaded rails. These rails are stump-tenoned into the legs; when a good fit has been obtained glue them up and cramp till dry.

Fig. 2428.—Underneath Plan of Music Stool Top.

Fig. 2429.

Fig. 2430.

Figs. 2429 and 2430.—Front and Side Elevations of Hamlet Seat.

Fig. 2431.—Cutting out Hamlet Seat Legs.

SEAT OF

     The seat frame can be made either straight or curved, the latter shape being more in harmony with the design, but much more difficult to make. The seat frame side rails are 1 ft. 8 in. long by 1 1/2 in. wide, and the end rails are 1 ft. 6 in. long by 2 in. wide, all being cut from 1-in. stuff, rough sawn. The four pieces are framed up with dowel joints, and all the edges are rounded. The dimensions given will also apply to a curved seat frame, the dip of the curve being 2 in., measured at the centre. The seat will be much better handled if, before it is fixed in the frame, the top is upholstered; to do this, cross-web the open space in the centre with grey webbing, the webs being 4 in. apart both in the length and width, and laced under and over as usual. Then cover with hessian, tacking this on the extreme inside edges. About 5 lb. of curled horsehair will be required for stuffing the seat, which will look much better if tufted. The outside cover should not be put on until the whole of the staining and polishing is done, and may be of crimson moquette; or a rich-coloured printed velveteen will be suitable, the edges being finished off with a coloured gimp to match the cover. Obviously such matters must be decided by individual taste. The seat can be fastened to the frame either by 1 1/2-in. brass angle brackets or by 2-in. round-headed brass screws put right through the legs.

Fig. 2432.—Hamlet Seat Frame.

Fig. 2433.

Fig. 2434.

Fig. 2435.

Figs. 2433 to 2435.—Elevations and Part Section of Bookshelves.

Fig. 2436.

Fig. 2437.

Fig. 2438.

Figs. 2436 to 2438.—Elevations and Part Section of Bookshelves.

DRAWING-ROOM

     Four designs of artistic bookshelves are shown by Figs. 2433 to 2436 to 2439 to and 2442 to 2444 respectively. The shelves may be made either in hardwood or in pine, for enamelling. The tops and bottoms are all dovetailed into the car-case ends, and the cupboard ends into the tops and bottoms as illustrated. The cupboard doors in Figs. 2433 and 2442 have transparent glass panels, and the cupboard door in Fig. 2436 is a leadlight panel. The shelves are movable, and rest on turned wood pins or on the ordinary iron bookcase studs. The holes for the pins should be bored about 1 1/2 in. apart and 2 in. from the front edge of the end, and 1 1/4 in. from inside the carcase back. The curtains will hang on 1/2-in. brass rods resting on two cup-hooks screwed under the top. The plinth in Fig. 2436 is mitred round the carcase and screwed through the carcase end. Other details of construction are unnecessary, the construction of bookcases and bookshelves being treated so fully on pp. 528 to 541, whilst some dining-room bookcases are described in the preceding chapter.

Fig. 2439.

Fig. 2440.

Fig. 2441.

Figs. 2439 to 2441.—Elevations and Part Section of Bookshelves.

Fig. 2442.

Fig. 2443.

Fig. 2444.

Figs. 2442 to 2444.—Elevations and Part Section of Bookshelves.

Fig. 2445.—Section of Screen Cross-bar.

ORNAMENTAL

     The framework of the dwarf folding screen, a general view of which is shown in Fig. may be made of oak stained to a dark shade. The screen stands 3 ft. high, and each fold is 1 ft. 6 in. wide. The moulding used for the framework should be reeded as shown at Fig. which is a full-sized section of one of the cross-bars. Fig. 2447 is a plan of one of the folds, and is drawn to a scale of one-eighth the full size. The uprights are 1 1/2 in. wide, and the cross-bars 1 in. wide. It is best to obtain the moulding ready cut. It must be of solid oak and not a veneer, and is, of course, rebated. Two 12-ft. lengths of each width will make the whole framework. The eight cross-bars are all cut 1 ft. 5 in. long, which allows 1 in. at each end for the tenon. Two of the uprights are 3 ft. long each, and the two others 2 ft. 10 in. each. These lengths being cut, the four inside cross-pieces will each require a second rebate to be cut opposite to the one which will be cut when the moulding is bought, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. The framework must be carefully mortised together, the mortises, of course, not being cut completely through the uprights; if cut 1 in. deep—the length allowed for the tenons—and good joints are made, the whole will be quite rigid, and when completed the two folds should be perfectly square, and should lie quite flat when placed together. Be careful in cutting the tenons not to cut the shoulder so as to leave a gap at the back where rebated. The rebates in all the projecting ends of the framework will have to be filled up neatly by gluing in pieces of oak, and the angle-brackets can then be glued in their places. They are best fixed in position by a peg through each extremity, and should be cut out of 1/4-in. oak. Fig. 2448 suggests how the bottom one may be shaped; the top one would be almost the same, only inverted and larger.

Fig. 2446.—Dwarf Folding Screen.

Fig. 2447.—One Fold of Screen.

BALUSTRADE OF

     The balustrade is formed of pillars (see Fig. They are turned, and will necessitate the use of a lathe, but a part design for a fretwork panel in place of a balustrade is given at Fig. If this be used, it can easily be fitted into the rebate and held in its place by strips of wood. The pillars used are fixed between two strips of oak, which are bored to receive the pegs left at the ends of the pillars, taking care to have them coincide, otherwise the pillars will not stand upright. It is a good plan to hold the two strips together, and so bore the two at the same time. The strips should exactly fit and fill up the rebate. The pillars can then be placed in a row between them, and the whole will fit in place, the rebates at the two sides being filled up with small strips in the same way as the projecting ends were treated. The balustrade should not be permanently fixed until the staining has been done.

SCREEN

     The two bottom panels may be of plush of a golden-green shade. This is mounted upon a piece of thin wood the size of the panel, using a little glue and paste mixed together, so as when cold to be about the consistency of a stiff jelly. A flat 1/2-in. gold slip should go round these panels, which can be mitred and glued upon the plush, or a slip frame made separately. „For panel centrepieces, two sepia-tinted autotypes or a couple of etchings, in oak mounts, would look very well. The material used for the autotype mounts is a veneer of oak upon a card foundation. (Do not attempt to use solid oak.) They must have a gilt edge, and can either be cut to the shape shown in Figs. 2445 and or can be cut square. The strips round the outer edge of the large panels should be of plush the same shade as that used for the lower panels. It will be best to cut eight strips of thin wood and mitre them, covering each piece separately with a strip of plush; they should then be firmly glued to the outside of the glass, which will be placed in front of the mounts.

BACK OF

     To make the back of the panels, cut from some backing boards pieces that will fit not too tightly into the rebates. The large ones will have to be joined, as a single width of a plank will not be wide enough; but a joint can be easily made by pasting a strip of brown paper on each side of it. These backs are to be covered with a brocade or other suitable material, fixed with the paste and glue, and turned over at the edges all round; they will then be ready for fitting in. Now cut some strips of thin brass about 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. longer than the depth of the rebate. These are to be fixed inside the rebate with a small tack, as shown in Fig. so that when the panels, glass, and backs have been put in, the projecting ends can be turned down and will keep them in place; three of these clips on each side will be found sufficient. It will be as well before placing the glass and autotypes in position to bind them together by pasting a strip of thin paper over the edges, so as to prevent any dust from working in between them. The glasses and large panels should be fixed in the frame with a few brads; the other panels and the backs can then be put in their places and the brass clips turned down. To hinge the folds together, use a couple of good strong 2 1/2-in. butt hinges. This should be left until last, as it is more convenient to work at the folds when separate.

Fig. 2448.—Screen Bracket.

SCREEN FOR

     The screen for holding photographs shown by Fig. 2451 is made of picture-frame moulding, which can be obtained from any dealer. Old negative glasses are cleaned and immersed one at a time, with a photograph of corresponding size in a bath of warm gelatine (1 part gelatine in 20 parts water). When thoroughly dry, the paper of the print is rubbed away from the back with glasspaper (No. 0), leaving the picture thin and transparent. The pictures may now be coloured roughly with oil colours from the back, as in the crystoleum process, and when viewed from the front will be effective, always provided, of course, that the colourist possesses artistic taste. The pictures are then fitted into the frames provided for them, and backed up from behind with white card covered on its outside with black leather paper. If desired, a margin of gold may be put inside the frames either as a slip, or painted on the glass before mounting the photographs. If the worker has not the necessary artistic skill, the picture may simply be mounted in optical contact in the manner described, and the colouring omitted.

Fig. 2449.—Balustrade Pillar.

Fig. 2450.—Fretwork Screen Panel.

Fig. 2451.—Photograph Screen.

     The fire-screen of which a general view is given in Fig. 2452 can be made of almost any kind of wood to match other furniture. Leading dimensions are given in Figs. 2453 and The two stiles and three rails are about 1 1/4 in. square, and the finial and drops at the top and bottom of the stiles may be turned on the solid or may be turned separately with dowels on them, and the top and bottom of the stiles can be bored and the dowels glued and inserted. The stiles are mortised to a depth of about 7/8 in., and the rails tenoned correspondingly, as shown in Fig. The four pieces forming the legs should be cut out the way of the grain, and their appearance will be much improved by carving, as shown. The flatness on the outer edges will be relieved by working a single reed on them. Shallow mortises are made in the stiles to receive stub tenons formed at the upper ends of the legs. The curved ornamental pieces at the top and bottom are also stub-tenoned at each end into the stiles to a depth of 7/8 in. These pieces also would be improved by carving. As will be seen, the stiles and rails are reeded, which may be done in the usual manner with a scratch. The five spindles shown should be turned with projecting pins; then holes should be bored in the two rails to receive them. The small pedimental feature at the top is made of 3/4-in. stuff, with a moulding worked on the lower edge as shown, and the upper piece is ornamented with a little detail of carving on each side. The panel may be of stained glass, needlework, etc., and can be secured in position by beads.

Fig. 2452.

Fig. 2453.

Fig. 2454.

Figs. 2452 to 2454.—General View and Elevations of Fire-screen.

FIRE-SCREEN WITH AND

     The fire-screen illustrated by Fig. 2456 may be made of fretwork, turnery, or cabinet work. The size may be varied to suit the fireplace in which the screen is to stand, but about 2 ft. 6 in. high, with an extreme width of 2 ft., is very suitable. Fig. 2457 shows (out of scale) the upper shelf with the sides moulded; a similar shelf, but longer, forms the bottom part of the framework. These shelves should be 3 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick; they are connected by two turned pillars with turned knobs at the top. An enlarged section of a pillar and knob is shown by Figs. 2458 and The panel is of wood 3/4 in. thick, moulded at the sides, the central portion being cut out to oval shape, and having a moulding to form the rebate to take a mirror. If preferred, two sheets of glass with fern leaves or wild flowers pressed between them may be substituted for the mirror, or a piece of ornamental painted velvet or crewel work may be adopted. In any case, a back board of thin wood will be necessary. If desired, the top of the screen may be ornamented with a fretwork scroll as shown; but the screen looks well without it. Fretwork spandrels are inserted in the corners of the panel round the mirror, the spaces for them being previously cut. Figs. 2460 and 2461 show alternative designs for the fretwork.

FEET OF

     The feet to support the screen are formed of four brackets of wood, 1 in. thick, cut as shown, and carried on flat balls of wood. The square blocks to which these brackets are fixed are screwed to the under-side of the bottom shelf, to which also is screwed a strip to give a more solid effect to the feet. This strip may be ornamented by small turned pateræ, as shown in Fig. or cut out with the fretsaw to any suitable design. This screen may be made of good red wood, but would look better in mahogany or American walnut. When completed it should be french-polished.

FANCY AND FOR

     This method of improving a plain mantel-piece consists mainly in encasing the sides with two artistic covers, these being surmounted by a fancy arch and two upper shelves or rails (see Fig. The wood employed is yellow pine, and the two covers are made, in the ordinary way, to fit tightly over the side pillars or supports from the hearth right up to the under-side of the mantelpiece itself, no gap being left at any corner or angle which would be deleterious to the general effect, and, if properly fitted, the covers will remain upright unsupported by any catch or fastening. The front of each has two panels, one small one near the top and a larger one below, the latter having a lincrusta design let into it, whilst the front edges of the covers are moulded or reeded.

Fig. 2455.—Fire-screen Joints.

FANCY IN

     Lying flat on the top and projecting from the edges of the mantelpiece is a board 7/8 in. thick, with its front and side edges bevelled on one surface for about 1 in., below which is the fancy arch, this latter having in all, at the front, sixteen pillars (of 1 in. largest diameter) of the following lengths: Two 1 ft. 2 in. over all (being the long end pillars at each side), each having two small squares 3/8 in. deep, one at a distance of 6 in. from the top of the pillar to the top of the square, and the other at the bottom capped with a small wooden knob (see Fig. four 6 in. (being the next two pillars on each side of the arch above the flat strip); two in.; two 4 1/4 in.; two 4 in. (these last six being the remaining pillars in the arch above the flat strip); two 3 1/2 in.; and two 1 1/4 in. (these being the small pillars at each side of the arch below the flat strip). A shoulder of 1/2 in. diameter and 1/2 in. long is turned at the top of all those pillars which fit into the piece of wood affixed to the under-side of the board on the mantelpiece, 1/2-in. holes being bored to take their ends. To the under-side of the board on the mantelpiece, at a distance of 1 in. from the edge, is fixed a piece of wood 1 in. thick and 1 3/4 in. deep, cut to the shape shown in Figs. and into which the tops of the several pillars are sunk. The piece of wood forming the arch itself is 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, and is attached to the bottom ends of the pillars, these latter being cut to suit it, whilst the ends of the arch are neatly joined on to one side of the small square at the bottom of each end pillar. A piece of wood similar in size to the arch is inserted between the side pillars, as shown in Figs. 2462 and one end being fixed to the centre square on each end pillar, and the other to the arch. Both of these two thin strips have their front edges reeded to improve their appearance. The small pillars at either side of the arch below the flat strip can also be suitably cut and secured in their places. To maintain the arch in a regular curve, it is better to attach it first at the centre and then work outwards to the two end pillars. The side arches are completed in a similar manner to the front one, the piece of wood to which the pillars are fixed at the top being mitred at its front corners. The back pillar of each side arch is 7 1/2 in. long over all, and has a small square, similar to the front end pillar, at the bottom, whilst the middle pillar is made to suit the curve of the arch, which is secured as before described (see Fig. The letter references in Fig. 2464 are as follow: A, under-piece and pillar supports; B, strip of arch; c, side strip.

Fig. 2456.—Fire-screen with Turnery and Fretwork.

Fig. 2457.—Fire-screen Shelf.

Fig. 2458.—Top Part of Fire-screen Pillar.

Fig. 2459.—Bottom Part of Fire-screen Pillar.

Fig. 2460. Fretwork Spandrel.

Fig. 2461. Fretwork Spandrel.

Fig. 2462.—Mantelpiece with Fancy Arch, Shelves, and Hangings.

MANTELPIECE AND

     The two upper shelves or rails are each 3 ft. 6 in. long, 5 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick, and have a 7/8 in. wide piece cut out inwards from the front edge from 5 in. from one end to 5 in. from the other. The top of Fig. 2462 shows what is meant. The rail over the shelf is 1/2 in. thick and 1 in. wide, and is supported by thirteen small pillars 1 1/2 in. high, eleven of which are in the front and one at each side. Fig. 2465 shows the form of these pillars. The front edges of both shelf and rail are bevelled, and the whole is supported by a fancy wooden angle about 1/2 in. thick and 5 in. deep. The two shelves are fixed 1 ft. 4 in. apart, and a piece of silk is artistically pleated and stretched behind them, being attached to the back of the top shelf with a piece of tape and some small nails, and to the wall at the top of the mantelpiece. A similar piece of silk is also hung behind the arches to relieve their bareness and throw up the pillars. The wood (and Lincrusta design) is first given three coats of thin cream paint, each coat being allowed to dry and being sandpapered before applying the next; a finishing coat of hard cream enamel is then given to the whole. The measurements here mentioned are suitable only for an ordinary sized mantelpiece with the centres of the pillars in the front arch 6 in. apart.

Fig. 2463.

Fig. 2464.

Figs. 2463 and 2464.—Side and Half Front Elevations of Mantelpiece Arch.

FRAMING A

     The pier-glass of which a front elevation is shown in Fig. 2467 is 5 ft. 9 in. high by 5 ft. 6 in. wide over all, and should be made in solid oak. The framework consists of one base rail 5 ft. 6 in., one top rail 3 ft. 9 in., and two uprights each 5 ft. 2 in., all 2 in. wide by 1 1/4 in. thick. When these are planed and squared up, a rebate must be run along one edge of each, 1/4 in. back from the front and 1/4 in. deep. The face sides should then be fluted, the flutes in the top rail running right out at the ends, whilst those of the uprights terminate 1 in. from the base rail and from the moulding at the top. They need not be more than 1/4 in. wide, and should finish round. On the base rail they also finish 1 in. from the ends, running into a cross-flute, as in Fig. The top rail must be tenoned 1 1/2 in. at each end on the face side, and 1 1/4 in. at the back on account of the rebate, and then mortised into the uprights 1 1/2 in. from the ends. The lower ends of the uprights are tenoned 2 in. at the face side and 1 3/4 in. at the back, and are let into mortises right through the base rail, at equal distances from the end.

Fig. 2465.—Mantelpiece Shelf Pillar.

Fig. 2466.—Side Elevation of Mantelpiece Top Shelf.

PIER-GLASS

     Before the joints are fixed, the curved oak rail must be got out. This, if in one piece, would require to be cut out of a 10-in. board 1 1/4 in. thick, but for economy two pieces of 1/4-in. oak, 1 ft. by 5 in., may be jointed to a piece 2 ft. 6 in. by 5 in. in a manner to give space for the curved rail, a template for which should have previously been made in cardboard or stiff paper. This will make the oak facing, and the back part of the rail may be made of deal or white wood 1 in. thick, but the joints must not come directly behind those in the oak. What time may appear to be lost in doing this is saved by cutting the deal 1/2 in. narrower than the facing, so that, when glued together the curved rail is rebated at both edges, thus saving the difficult task of rebating the solid oak. In fastening the facing, hot glue should be used on both pieces, which should be pressed well together with several handscrews until thoroughly set. The rail is then fitted, and also the piece, 2 in. in length, which divides the two panels, and which is fluted like the top rail. The frame may now be taken to pieces, and the curved rail dowel-jointed to the uprights, and then finally put together with glue, the tenons of the top rail being sawn and “blind-wedged,” so as to tighten them inside the mortises (see Fig. These joints and those of the curved rail are made first, and it will be necessary to cramp them up immediately; then the base rail is jointed on, the wedges being driven in from the outside (see Fig. The short piece is secured with screws through the curved rail and top rail, the heads being countersunk well below the surface of the wood, so as not to come in contact with the glass. It is most important to see that the frame is quite square, and out of winding, before it has had time to set.

Fig. 2467.—Pier-glass.

Fig. 2468.—End of Pier-glass Bottom Rail.

Fig. 2469.—Joint of Curved Rail and Upright.

Fig. 2470.—Back Lower Corner of Pier-glass.

PIER-GLASS

     The two panels are of 1/2-in. oak board, simply carved with a gouge in the form of flutes 3/8 in. wide, tapering to a point in the corners; they are neatly fitted and kept in place by a slight beading at the back. The brackets should be of 3/4-in. oak, and the pediment of 1/2-in. oak; they must have the design drawn in pencil, which should then be cleanly cut in with a very small carver’s gouge, say about 1/16 in. The line of the scrolls is continued along the edge of the brackets, which are then fixed in place with glue behind the rebate of the base rail, and against the uprights, a few small blocks being also glued behind. Fig. 2473 shows the moulding on the front of the pediment, the same moulding being used for the small cornices at the top end of the uprights. A simple and efficient detachable method of fixing the pediment is to fix a strip of wood about 1 ft. 6 in. long by 3/4 in. by 1/2 in. with three screws flush with the lower edge of the pediment; it can then be screwed from behind to the top rail. When ordering the mirror (see Fig. send a template in any dry thin board nailed and glued, to ensure its not being put out of square. It should fit loosely, yet evenly, and, in fact, it will be well to allow 1/8 in. play all round. The frame, now complete, is ready for polishing, and should be toned medium, and in order to make the job look well the fluting and carving should be gilded. The template with more timber fixed across makes the backboard. The frame is placed face downwards, and the mirror put gently in; then small three-cornered blocks are glued round to regulate it to show the bevel evenly, and when these are sufficiently set the backboard may be put in, and a square beading put round and fixed with fine sprigs.

Fig. 2471.—Pier-glass Side Bracket.

Fig. 2472.—Pier-glass Pediment.

Fig. 2473.—Section of Pediment Moulding.

Fig. 2474.—Fixing Pier-glass Mirror.

TWO

     This overmantel, a design for which is shown by Fig. looks well if made in mahogany, rosewood, oak, or American walnut. If it is desired to ebonise the finished overmantel, oak should not be used; the other woods are suited for the purpose. A very good effect can be produced by staining mahogany to “Chippendale colour,” which is virtually an imitation of rosewood. The size of the overmantel should depend upon requirements, but the measurements given will be found generally useful. If it is advisable to make the bottom of the overmantel larger than the mantel-shelf, fix a mantel-board of the required size on the top of the latter, and then cover its edge with art muslin or other suitable material. The height of the overmantel chiefly depends on the height of the room; but it should not be out of proportion with the width. The proper width can be judged from the distance between the outer edges of the fireplace jambs, as these are usually in a line with the outer uprights of the overmantel. In constructing overmantels, every joint should be neatly and carefully made; and it is advisable that the mortise-and-tenon method be adopted whenever possible. Fig. 2477 is an end elevation of the overmantel illustrated by Fig. and Fig. 2478 is a vertical section on the line E E The overmantel has four turned feet. The overmantel shown by Fig. of which Fig. 2480 shows an end elevation, and Fig. 2481 a vertical section of the same on the line D D may be made of walnut, or, if a cheaper wood be desired, deal. First put the frame together as shown in Fig. An extra 3/4 in. may be added to the lengths of A and and 3/8 in. to which will enable the uprights, etc., to be let into grooves in the adjoining sections, thus strengthening the whole structure. The boards used are of 3/4-in. stuff, the lengths of which can be obtained from the sizes of the various compartments given in Fig. The head of this overmantel has ornamental edges and a decorated (carved) face, but some other design may be substituted if preferred. On the top of each of the two outside posts is a turned knob, which can easily be fastened in position by means of a dowel. A piece of moulding is tacked on the backboard right along the base of the head-piece, and a similar moulding is fixed round the top of the central compartment. A gallery of spindles, similar to that shown above the square mirror in Fig. can be placed along the front edge at the bottom of this compartment. The spindles should be turned in a lathe, and holes bored in the shelf to receive the bottom dowels. A strip of wood, 1 in. square and about 1 ft. 2 in. long, is fixed to the tops of the spindles, and the whole fixed in position. The central compartment is still further improved by fixing at the top the simple fret shown by Fig. If desired, two reeds can be marked on the outside posts, as shown in Fig. Bevelled glass mirrors add greatly to the richness of overmantels. In the simple form shown by Fig. 2479 one piece of plate, 1 ft. 1 in. long by 1 ft. 1 in., is used; and in the other overmantel six bevelled plates of the following measurements: Central plate, 1 ft. 6 in. by 2 ft. 3 in.; side plates, 10 in. by 6 in.; and the semicircular plate, 1 ft. 4 in. (along its straight edge) by 7 in.; the circular plates are about 5 in. in diameter. Each piece of glass must be measured 3/8 in. longer and wider than sight size. The cost of the over-mantel shown by Fig. 2476 can be reduced by substituting wood panels for some of the mirrors. If enamelling the overmantel, instead of polishing, first give it a coat of size, and when dry a couple of coats of enamel.

Fig. 2475.—Part Template for Glass.

Figs. 2476 to 2478.—Front and Side Elevation and Section of Artistic Overmantel.

Figs. 2479 to 2481.—Front and Side Elevations and Section of Artistic Overmantel.

Fig. 2482.—Ornamental Fretwork.

Fig. 2483.—Ornamental Fretwork.

Fig. 2486.

Fig. 2484.

Fig. 2485.

Figs. 2484 to 2486.—Front and Side Elevations and Section of Overmantel.

ANOTHER

     The overmantel illustrated in front and side elevation by Figs. 2484 and 2485 is made chiefly of 1 1/2-in. by 1 1/8-in. stuff, with two beads run on the face. The two outer stiles A are 2 ft. 8 1/4 in. long, and the two inner stiles B are 3 ft. 8 1/4 in. long. The stiles B are joined together at the top by two rails c, which are 1 ft. 11 in. long and 1 1/4 in. apart; see Fig. which is a vertical section through the middle. The rail 3 ft. 3 in. long, crosses the stiles B and connects the stiles The bottom rail E is 4 ft. long. All the rails, including and stiles are halved together. A beading strip, 9/16 in. thick, 1 3/4 in. wide, and 1 ft. 8 in. long, is let into the rails and a strip in. thick, 2 in. wide, and 6 1/2 in. long, into the rails D and F in 1/4-in. rebates. Two stiles G 11 1/2 in. long, are halved to the lower rail C and the rail The lower shelves are 9 1/2 in. long, 4 1/2 in. wide, and 1/2 in. thick, the outer corners being rounded; they also have a dowel hole for the pillar. The top shelf is 1 ft. 11 in. long, with its ends left square. The shelves are fixed from behind by means of screws. The pillars and finials are dowelled into the shelves and top. This top is in. thick, 5 5/8 in. wide, and 1 ft. 11 1/2 in. long. It is fixed to the top of the stiles B and the pillars, and on the top is a cornice 1 5/16 in. deep and 1 1/2 in. wide. The ornamental pieces J 2484 and are let into the rails and stiles for 1/8 in. The piece K is let into the tops of the pillars, and fixed to the top by means of small blocks. The mirrors are inserted in the usual manner, and for the one that is heart-shaped a panel in. thick is let into a rebate in the stiles G and the rails C and The feet for supporting the overmantel are 3/4 in. thick and 1 1/2 in. in diameter. A pediment 4 1/2 in. deep, 1 ft. 6 1/2 in. long, and 5/8 in. thick, is fixed to the top. A 1/4-in. boarding should be fixed all over the back. The two side mirrors extend from the rails F to the rail Two eyes for fastening should be fixed to the top of the rails

Fig. 2487.—Simple Overmantel in White Enamel.

SIMPLE IN

     The overmantel illustrated by Fig. 2487 looks well if constructed of good pine or American whitewood and finished in white enamel, with a gilt frame for the mirror, and a gilt slip or bead (not shown) on the margin where the shelf and the side brackets join. If oak or walnut is used, select moulding for the mirror with carved egg-and-tongue ornament, and finish by french-polishing. The framework is for a bevelled mirror 2 ft. by 1 ft. 6 in. Prepare two stiles, 3 ft. by 1 3/4 in. by 1 in.; two inner stiles, 2 ft. 4 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 1 in.; one bottom rail, 3 ft. 9 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 1 1/4 in.; two inner rails, halved to the inner stiles and flush with them at the back, 2 ft. 1 1/2 in. by 1 1/4 in. by 5/8 in.; and a shelf notched to fit the outer stiles and mortised for the ends of the inner stiles, 3 ft. 5 in. by 6 1/2 in. by 3/4 in. The top rail is 3 ft. 7 in. by 2 1/4 in. by 1 1/8 in., and mortises should be cut at each end to fit over the outer stiles, and a rebate to receive the frieze panel. Work the moulding round the edges, and attach a beaded slip to form a guard for china plates, etc. Rebate the stiles and the rails, as shown in Fig. to receive a 3/8-in. board; the mirror frame and side brackets should just lap the joints of the 3/8-in. stuff. Then form a rebate, 3 ft. 1 1/2 in., on the front of the bottom rail, and a 1/4-in. chamfer below. Next prepare two brackets, 6 in. by 5 1/2 in. by 3/4 in., and two lower brackets, 2 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 9 1/2 in. by 3/4 in. Cut the fretwork and the mortises for the stump tenons of the small shelves, 8 in. from the base, and trim. The bevelled pieces under the brackets are halved to the lower rail. The frieze panel is 3 ft. 1 1/2 in. long by 6 1/2 in. by 3/8 in., and is rebated to the top rail, and butts against a fillet glued to the top shelf. The parts should be fitted temporarily with screws before filling and polishing. Fig. 2488 is a diagram of the framework, the top part showing the back and the bottom part the front.

Fig. 2488.—Overmantel Frame Back and Front.

EASILY

     The pediment or top-finish to an overmantel, or over-door, or to various articles of furniture, such as cabinets, sideboards, and wardrobes, is capable of a great variety of forms, as already illustrated on many previous pages. The pediments shown in Figs. 2489 to 2493 are simple outlines, showing how easily the design can be altered by following new curves and different arrangements of mouldings. An otherwise handsome piece of furniture, a side-board, for instance, may be disfigured by an ugly pediment. All the pediments shown in the figures just referred to are detachable. When designing, first firmly decide on the ornament and draw the whole out on stiff cardboard to full size. Cut this out with a strong pair of scissors and try it in position. This, when judged to be correct, can be used as a template. The job will then not fail to be satisfactory, and valuable timber will not be wasted, as might be the case if a template were not employed.

Fig. 2489.—Pediment.

Fig. 2490.—Pediment.

ORNAMENTAL AND

     The chimney-piece shown in elevation in Fig. 2494 is designed for a tenant’s fixture, is easily removed, and is capable of readjustment to similar openings with little trouble. It may be constructed of yellow deal or basswood, which may be stained an olive green or a ruby red, to harmonise with the surrounding furniture. An original novelty in the shape of two small cupboards under the mantel has been introduced; these will be found very handy receptacles for miscellaneous articles such as pipes, match-boxes, etc. Fig. 2494 is an elevation of the chimney-piece and mantel-board complete, and Fig. 2495 is a sectional plan of it, the left-hand half being a section about 1 ft. above the floor, and showing the arrangement of the jamb casing, etc., the parts above being indicated by dotted lines. The right half is a section through the cupboards, immediately under the mantel-board, the dotted lines showing the jamb beneath; the pieces marked C C are the two ends of one of the aforementioned cupboards, D is the sliding door passing in front of the enclosed space of which no further use is made in the present instance than to strengthen the bottom of the cupboards. F is a quadrant corner piece to cover the end of the slate head, the line G being the plan of the mantel-board. Fig. 2496 is a front elevation of the overmantel, which consists of a plain back with three shelves supported by shaped brackets and a central mirror with sprung head. Fig. 2497 is a plan of the overmantel. The portion on the left of figure shows parts the above the top shelf, and the other side parts above the lower shelves. H is the back and I a cross batten. Fig. 2498 is a section, half full size, of the mirror frame. Fig. 2499 is a broken section, half full size through the jamb on case, showing its construction. The marginal line is the plan of the base block. Fig. 2500 is a detail of mantel cupboard, one quarter full size, and from this it will be seen that the old mantel-shelf is boxed in by a thin casing, so arranged that by screwing up the soffit J the whole thing is fixed securely without any need of an attachment to the walls. D is the sliding door working between two 3/16-in. fillets at top, and on a tongue and groove in the bottom at K is shown a dowel for fixing the bottom to the moulded head. B is the front of the fixed compartment in the centre of the chimney-piece. Figs. 2501 and 2502 show the method of fixing the base blocks to the jamb by means of dowel and dovetail; Fig. 2503 is a sketch of part of a door, showing its construction. Fig. 2504 shows an end view of the top shelf and bracket, and Fig. 2505 gives an end view of the bottom shelf, also with bracket.

Fig. 2491.—Pediment.

Fig. 2492.—Pediment.

Fig. 2493.—Pediment.

Figs. 2494 and 2495.—Elevation and Plan and Part Section of Chimney-piece.

Figs. 2496 and 2497.—Elevation and Plan of Overmantel.

Fig. 2498.—Section of Mirror Frame.

Fig. 2499.—Section of Chimney-piece Jamb.

OF

     Assuming that a full-size plan has been set out, as shown in Fig. showing all the parts, and working from the actual fire-place, set about the construction of the jambs first. These consist of one wide and two narrow pieces of 3/4-in. board, planed both sides, moulded as shown with ovolo and cove, and nailed and glued together. Before, however, fixing on the edge pieces, cut a barefaced dovetail at the lower end, as shown in Fig. shoulder back the top end to the moulding line, and plough a 1/8-in. groove for a cross tongue. Treat the head in the same manner, and fasten it with a raking screw through the top edge. It will be noticed that it does not require edging except at the ends beyond the cupboards. This method of construction is adopted for convenience of re-adjustment after removal, and for the same reason the jambs are made wider than is quite necessary (see A, Fig. Glue the cross tongues in the jamb shoulders, screw the head up, but do not glue it, put a stretcher at the bottom, and clean off. Brad on the reeds, rounding their ends with a file, and then fix the edging and mitre up the moulding. Make a square shoulder at the bottom flush with the jamb shoulder, and screw on from the back. The bases are built up of two pieces, one 6 in. long and 1 in. thick, and the other 3 1/8 in. by 3 3/4 in. by 6 in., fixed together as shown in Fig. When the dovetail has been fitted, the centre for the dowel holes may be found by driving into the shoulder the short end of a needle point, and tapping the block up until the point is indented, when it may be removed with the pincers, and the holes bored with a twist-bit.

Fig. 2500.—Mantel Cupboard.

Fig. 2501.

Fig. 2502.

Figs. 2501 and 2502.—Foot of Chimney-piece Jamb with Block.

Fig. 2503.—Mantel Cupboard Slide Door.

Fig. 2504.—Overmantel Top Shelf.

Fig. 2505.—Overmantel Bottom Shelf.

CHIMNEY-PIECE

     For the mantel-board, a piece of pine 11 in. by 1 1/2 in. by 4 ft. 6 in. is required, rebated out to fit easily over the existing shelf. The necessity of having the rebating stopped at each end may be avoided, if desired, by substituting a 1/2-in. board for the top, and gluing a fillet equal in thickness to the shelf along the front edge and at each end. The soffit board is fitted and screwed to the same, so that it may grip the shelf tightly and prevent the board slipping off. The edges may now be moulded, and, if the use of a plane of the right section cannot be had, the beads may be planted on. Next prepare the piece E of 1/2-in. stuff, plough a 1/4-in. groove in. deep and in. from the front edge; it should be stopped 1 in. from each end. Bore two 3/8-in. dowel holes near the back edge, and prepare the five pieces marked B and which are each 3 in. wide; square them off 1/16 in. short of the groove in the piece and fix with brads and glue. Make the two doors 3 1/8 in. wide, clamping them as shown in Fig. brad on the reeds and fit the tongue to slide easily in the groove, and notch back the tongue from the end to form a stop. Fit this case to the head of the chimney-piece, arranging it exactly in the centre, and mark the holes for the dowels K Now take off the soffit board, erect the frame in position again, slip in the soffit, and mark around the divisions with a pencil; it can now be taken down and fixed with brads or screws in the proper position as indicated by the pencil marks. The fillets L L must then be bradded on to form guides for the doors, and the quadrants P F screwed from the inside of C and the top of the soffit. The chimney-piece is now completed, and it is fixed by entering the dowels at the bottom of the blocks into the floor, bringing the jamb frame up to the wall, pushing into place the cupboard, dropping in the two pins K, which keep the top end in position, and then re-screwing the soffit to the mantel-board.

Fig. 2506.—Combined Overmantel and Bookcase.

OVERMANTEL TO GO WITH

     The back of the overmantel is formed of five lengths of 5/8-in. by 9-in. board, glued together, and then cut to shape. Care should be taken that the heart sides of all the pieces are arranged in one direction—toward the back for preference. To obtain an approximate reproduction of the curve of the back, draw a number of parallel horizontal lines across the sketch, make a similar number of lines at corresponding distances to scale upon the stuff, and measure the distance from a centre line; each line passes through the curve, and these lengths should be pricked off upon the stuff, thereby obtaining points through which to draw the curve full size. The shape may be cut out with a bow-saw, and worked with spokeshave and file. Next set out and sink the housings 1/4 in. deep for the shelves; square with the centre line. The top shelf groove can be run through, as it will be covered by the return end of the shelf (see the plan, Fig. but the others must be stopped at the length of the shelves. In the preliminary housing, the lines should be left in, so that they may be worked up to when the shelves are cleaned off, and left tight. The shelves and brackets should now be prepared, the former with the grain running parallel to the front edge and the latter with the grain crossing the shelves, into which they should be housed 1/8 in., but not so tight as not to allow for shrinkage. A 3-in. by 1/2-in. batten should be fitted to the back at its widest part with slotted screws, and the mirror frame proceeded with. It is as well to procure the glass first, in case of mistakes, though these should be avoided if a template of thin stuff is cut to the shape required and less 1/8 in. all round in size; this allowance is for the diamond. Figure on the dimensions, or the glazier may cut off an additional 1/8 in. The moulding may be purchased ready stuck at a sawmill; and if a piece is worked square for the head to the right sweep, it will be run through the machine to the same section for a few pence. Mitre up the four square mitres first, leaving the short pieces at the top longer than required. Then set a bevel and work the mitres on the sprung-piece; bore holes for fine screws square with the mitres, and screw all up. See that the sides are parallel; lay the sprung-piece on top and scribe over the mitre lines; unscrew, cut off and shoot, glue, and screw up again. The whole may now be cleaned off and stained. The mirror fillets may then be bradded in as shown in Fig. and the frame screwed to the back. A pair of brass “glass plates” (Fig. 822, p. 250, or Fig. p. 502), screwed to the back of the wings for securing it to the wall, complete the mirror.

Fig. 2507.

Fig. 2508.

Figs. 2507 and 2508.—Front and Side Elevations of Combined Overmantel and Bookcase.

Fig. 2509.—Cupboard Door Ring.

COMBINED AND

     This combined overmantel and bookcase, of which Fig. 2506 is a general view, Fig. 2507 the front elevation, and Fig. 2508 a side elevation, is composed of two main parts, which can either be made to form one article, or constructed to be taken apart for the purpose of forming two articles, the upper part as a mantel and the bottom part as a bookcase. Hard wood—such as walnut, mahogany, or oak—is required, the boards being preferably not less than 11 in. wide and 1 in. thick.

MAKING THE

     The bookcase part should be first made. Cut off two lengths 3 ft. 9 in. by 11 in. (for the sides or ends), three lengths 3 ft. 4 in. by 10 5/8 in. (for the three long shelves), one length 2 ft. by 10 5/8 in. (for the short shelf), one length 1 ft. 8 in. by 10 5/8 in. (for the long division next to the door), and one length 9 1/2 in. by 10 5/8 in. (for the short division between the shelves). These are the net sizes, so that some allowance must be made for squaring and trimming. The door is made when the rest of the bookcase has been put together. Take the two end pieces and cut them out to the shape shown in Fig. the small bevelled piece at the front bottom edge of each being glued on. On the inner faces of the end pieces, in the positions shown in Fig. bore holes 5/8 in. deep for the dowels which hold the ends and the shelves together. To ensure a good fit, great care must be taken in marking off the positions of these dowel holes, which is best done in the following manner: First run a gauge line through the centre of the ends of the shelves, and square lines across for the centres of the dowel holes; lay the shelves in position on the end pieces, and mark off both the positions of the four dowel holes and the centre gauge line. If the holes are not marked off perfectly true with one another, the dowels will not fit properly. The depth of the dowel holes in the ends of the shelves is 1 1/2 in. and the diameter 1/2 in., if in an inch board. Having glued the holes in the ends of the shelves, drive in the dowels and cut them off to the required length by measuring off the depths of the holes in the ends, care being taken not to make the dowels too long, or the joints will not close up. Smooth up the surfaces of the end pieces and shelves with a fine-set smoothing plane, scrape them well with a scraper, and finish off with glasspaper, using first fairly coarse and then fine paper. Glue the joints well with thin, hot glue, and set to dry; with cramps, better and closer joints will be made. The upright stiles of the door are 1 ft. 8 in. by 1 3/4 in. by 1 in., and the rails 1 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 1 3/4 in. by 1 in. At each end of the rails cut a tenon 5/16 in. thick and 1 1/2 in. long, which will give a width of 11 1/2 in. between the shoulders. The stiles and rails are rebated 5/8 in. in the thickness of the wood and 5/18 in. in the width, to receive the leaded light, which is secured by a narrow bead at the back fastened with brads. It is intended that there should be a removable shelf inside the cupboard, resting on two strips fastened to the sides, in the position indicated by dotted lines on the side elevation The cupboard door ring is shown by Fig.

Fig. 2510.—Part of Bookcase Shelf.

OTHER OF THE

     The two pieces of fretwork over the short shelf and under the long bottom shelf are made from 1-in. stuff, and are glued in place and held at the back by small glued blocks. The two fancy centre pillars are fixed at the top by means of dowels, and screwed at the bottom. The top shelf of the bookcase is surmounted by a beaded back-piece, fitting into grooves cut on the insides of the end pieces, the purpose of which is to cover the joint between the two parts of the fitment. The back of the bookcase is made of pine, and is put together with muntins 5/8 in. thick, of which four will be required, two for the outside and two for the inside. Fig. 2511 is a cross section of the bookcase framing. The outside muntins fitting against the inner faces of the ends are 2 in. wide, and are grooved on one edge, while the inside muntins are 5 in. wide and grooved on both edges. The spaces between the muntins are filled with panels 3/8 in. thick bevelled at the back as shown, to fit easily into the grooves in the muntins. The completed back is held securely by screwing it to the shelves, the outside muntins being also glued to the end pieces. The muntins will require to be notched out 1/4 in. to allow the shelves to fit flush with the face of the bookcase.

Fig. 2511.—Cross Section of Bookcase Framing.

Fig. 2512.—Section of Overmantel Mirror.

Fig. 2513.—Overmantel Shelf.

Fig. 2514.—Folding Card-table Closed.

MAKING THE

     In making the overmantel part, which should be done next, first cut out the framing, which is of 3/4-in. pine, halved at the joints, and faced with 1/4-in. wood similar to that used for the bookcase. The facings are best put on after the framing has been joined up 1/4 in. less at the inner sides, so as to form a rebate for the 1/2-in. mould which surrounds the panel openings. The rebate formed by the facing will only be 1/4 in. deep; as it is necessary that it should be 1/2 in. deep to take the mould, the pine framing will need to be rebated 1/4 in. in order to obtain the required depth. The wood panels, which may be either plain or carved, are put in from the back, and fastened by beads in the same manner as the leaded light in the door. The mirror is secured as shown in Fig. The pediment, shelves, and fretwork of the overmantel are 1 in. thick, the shelves being screwed from the back. The pillars are turned with a small pin at each end, holes being bored in the shelves to receive them. It will be seen that the bracket which supports the half-round shelf is not fixed against the face of the framing, but against the edge, so as not to show a joint. It is then necessary to cut out a piece of the framing to receive the bracket, which is held by screws passed through the framing from the panel openings before the panel is placed in position. The edge of the top shelf is moulded, while the edges of the other shelves are bevelled; with the exception of the top shelf, all are returned past the edge of the framing. The four top pillars have a longer square portion at their upper ends than the others; this extra piece is halved into the fretwork, so that the pillars may lie flush with the face side. The fretwork is fastened with screws put in from the back by means of pocket holes.

FIXING AND

     The overmantel is fixed on top of the bookcase by screws passing through the overmantel framing into the beaded back-piece on the bookcase; if this construction is to be used as two articles, the overmantel should be provided with dowels fitting into holes bored in the top of the sides of the bookcase. When completed, all the woodwork is french-polished. The front and side elevations are drawn to a scale of 1 1/2 in. to the foot; the shelf plan, the elevation showing the method of jointing door frame-work, and the inside view of bookcase end at B, to a scale of 3 in. to the foot; the transverse section of bookcase framing, the elevation showing the method of fixing bookcase shelves, and that showing the method of fixing the mirror, to a scale of 6 in. to the foot; while the door ring is two-thirds full size.

MATERIALS FOR

     The card-table shown open by Fig. and closed by Fig. is made so that when the top is folded the whole answers as a side table. The wood for the top should be well seasoned, as, being connected to the table frame by a centre only, it is liable to warp if not thoroughly dry; mahogany is suitable. The ornamental lines are inlaid with satinwood or boxwood stringing, which can be obtained from most cabinet-makers or veneer merchants. Instead of the inlaying, the lines can be incised with a tool shaped like a or a small gouge. If not to be inlaid, the table could be made of pine, with birch legs, and afterwards stained, painted, or enamelled. The following are the dimensions of the stuff required, allowing a little for working: Two pieces for the top, 3 ft. by 1 ft. 6 in. by 1 in.; four legs, 2 ft. 5 in. by 1 3/4 in. by 1 3/4 in.; two side rails, 2 ft. 9 in. by 4 1/4 in. by 1 in.; two end rails, 1 ft. 4 in. by 4 1/4 in. by 1 in.; two strips of veneer for the top Fig. 3 ft. by 2 in.; strips for gluing round the inside of the tops to form a recess for the cloth Fig. 1 ft. 3 in. by 2 in. (endway of grain); one cross-rail on which the top revolves Fig. 1 ft. 4 in. by 3 in. by 1 in.; one inside rail Fig. which forms the inside end of the box for holding cards, etc., 1 ft. 4 in. by 3 1/2 in. by 1 in.; and one piece for the bottom of the box Fig. 1 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. 5 in. by 1/4 in. The bottom F can be kept in position by 1/2-in. strips nailed or screwed to the side and end rails.

Fig. 2515.—Folding Card-table Open.

MAKING

     To proceed with the making, plane the top to thickness and take to length and width. Next mark, with a toothing plane, the inside face of the top, which makes the cloth and the veneer borders stick better. The veneer and Fig. can then be laid, the end pieces being endways, and the grain running the same way as that of the top. Then insert the stringing H in the uppermost side of the top when the table is closed; the outer line should be 1 1/2 in. from the edge and the inner line 2 in. from the edge. If desired, the corners of the top may be rounded as shown in Fig. When the veneer and stringing are dry, the two outside edges and ends of the top can be rounded, the two inside edges, which are hinged, being left square. The top should then be cleaned up and sandpapered ready for hingeing, as shown at G

LEGS AND OF

     The legs should be squared up to 1 3/4 in., and the side and end rails planed and taken to width. Before tapering the legs, they should be mortised to receive the tenons on the ends of the rails. Allowing for the legs to stand in underneath the top 1 1/4 in. at the ends and 1/2 in. at the sides, the length from shoulder to shoulder of the side rails will be 2 ft. 6 in., and of the end rails 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. The legs should be tapered to 1 1/4 in. square at the bottom, commencing the taper 4 1/4 in. from the top. The stringing is inlaid in the legs 1/4 in. from the edge, and in the rails 1/2 in. from the edge. Before gluing the frame together, the inside rail E should be fitted either with stump tenons or dovetails 1 ft. 5 in. from the end rail. The latter rail is 3/4 in. narrower than the other rails, which allows the bottom of the card-box to be screwed underneath it. The cross rail D can be dovetailed into the side rails when the frame is together.

Fig. 2516.—Plan of Card-table Frame.

CARD-TABLE

     When the frame is together, the top should be hinged and the centre may be fixed. The hinges (see Fig. and the revolving centre can be obtained of most ironmongers. The position for the revolving centre is shown at K 1 ft. 1 1/2 in. from the end of the top and 4 1/2 in. from the side. The large plate is screwed to the under-side of the top, the bolt goes through the rail D and the nut screws up underneath. To prevent the top turning too far when opened, as in Fig. a piece of wood L about 1 in. wide is screwed to the under-side of the top. The baize or cloth C should be pasted down after the table has been polished.

Fig. 2517.

Fig. 2518.

Figs. 2517 and 2518.—Elevation of Chess and Draughts Table.

Fig. 2519.

Fig. 2519.—Top of Table.

CHESS AND

     A side elevation of the chess table is shown by Fig. Fig. 2518 is an end elevation, and the top of the table is shown in Fig. It will look best if made in Spanish mahogany. The four legs are 2 ft. 3 in. long, and are marked out on a piece of 1 1/2-in. plank. The cutting out, however, is not finished till they have been turned in the lathe (see Fig. A length of 1 ft. 1 in. of the upper part of the leg is 1 1/2 in. square, then 6 in. is turned, the remaining 8 in. being cut to the curved shape shown, and tapering from 1 1/4 in. square to 1 in. square at the foot. Figs. 2517 and 2518 show that the lower parts of the legs point direct towards the corners, and also that the angle of the upper part is in line with the centre of the flat of the lower part; this is illustrated in Fig. which also shows the leg cut out 1/4 in. deep by 3/4 in. wide for the shelf. Two rails must be got out 1 ft. 10 in. long by 3 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, and two of the same section cut 1 ft. 3 in. long. These are tenoned 1 in. at each end into the legs, and mitred; they are then rebated on the lower edge inside, to receive the box bottoms, which are of 1/2-in. board. Each leg is mortised, and the corner cut out as a continuation of the rebates in the rails.

Fig. 2520.

Fig. 2521.

Figs. 2520 and 2521.—Chess Table Legs.

Fig. 2522.—Chess Table Leg with Slot.

CHESS

     Before gluing up the legs and rails, the slots for the flaps should be made; they should not be more than 1/4 in. wide by 3/8 in. deep, and 4 in. long. Fig. 2522 shows a slot, the lower end having a little retreat backwards to receive the pin, which is put towards the back edge of the flap, so that when it is in use (see Fig. it will not tip up at the back when weight is put near the front. To put the flap out of use, as shown by Fig. it is moved forwards, the back edge being pushed upwards, and the pin slides to the top of the slot and, slightly moved forward, falls into the recess made for it. To ascertain the exact position of the slot, make one of the arms of a strip of brass 9 1/2 in. long by 4 in. wide by 1/10 in. thick. A hole to take a No. 8 screw is then drilled 3/8 in. from one end, and countersunk on one side, then a hole is drilled 3/8 in. from the other end, and another so close to it as almost to run into it. These holes are both countersunk on the other side, and then should be filed into each other, using a ward file and forming a slot about 3/8 in. long by in. wide. The flap itself is of 1/2-in. board 1 ft. 0 3/4 in. long by 8 in. wide. The arms are screwed through the slot to the side edges 1 in. from the front edge, but the screw should move freely in the slot, and 1-in. No. 8 screws, with the heads filed flush with the necks, are screwed in 1/2 in. from the back edge, and stand up in. These are the flap pins which work in the leg slots. The recess (see Fig. must be filed at the position where the arm falls against the back screw, when the screw in the slot is farthest from the end. When the arm is screwed in its place on the leg, the top end of the leg slot is marked from the recess in the arm, and the lower end 4 in. below it. All four legs must be treated in this manner, there being four arms, two for each flap (see Fig.

Fig. 2523.—Metal Arm for Chess Table Shelf.

Fig. 2524.—Part Plan of Chess Table Shelf.

CHESS

     The shelf is next taken in hand. The corners are cut out to the legs, which should fit tightly, and then the legs, rails, and shelf are glued up at the same time, the shelf being further secured by screws driven in on the slant from underneath into the back of the legs. Two rails are now required, each 1 ft. 2 1/2 in. long by 2 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick; they must be half dovetailed (see Fig. into the long rails 5 in. from the end rails, and thus form the inner sides of the boxes. They must stop at the corner of the rebate, and be flush at the top.

Fig. 2525.—Horizontal Section of Chess Table Frame.

CHESS

     The table top is made of two thicknesses of timber, the first being 5/8 in. thick with the grain running lengthwise. It measures 2 ft. 4 in. by 1 ft. 8 in., and is cut to the shape shown by Fig. a 1-ft. square being marked on the upper side exactly central. To make the checker-board, a piece of sycamore board 1 ft. 2 in. long by 7 in. wide by 3/8 in. thick must be planed quite flat and square, and a piece of dark, straight-grained mahogany is likewise prepared, the thicknessing and squaring being important. The second piece must be stained with Stephens’ ebony stain, which is allowed to penetrate into the wood as much as possible. The sixty-four check squares measure 1 1/2 in., and should be cut from the two boards, on a fine-toothed, hollow-ground circular saw, such as is employed by camera makers, pattern makers, and toy manufacturers; this will cut them accurately, and almost as smoothly as if they were planed. Thirty-two black and white squares will be wanted, and they are fastened with thin glue. There must be a black square at the left-hand corner when the player is sitting in position, and the worker, when standing by the side of the top, should commence by laying the line nearest him, having a black at the left-hand corner first. Another item is to put the grain of the whites running one way, and of the blacks the other. A surround of 1/2-in. by 3/8-in. oak is then put on, the oak contrasting with both black and white, and the end pieces should be grooved on the outside in. deep and 3/16 in. wide to admit the tongue of the box lid. Two rectangular holes, 8 in. by 3 1/2 in., must now be cut through the top, commencing from the surround piece. The remainder of the top is next covered with 3/8-in. board, the grain running crosswise, and to do this two pieces are made first to cover the ends which are cut for the sliding lids of the boxes (see Figs. 2519 and The lids are grooved on the back and end edges 1/2 in. deep by 3/16 in. wide. Tongues of boxwood must be fitted in these, standing out 1/4 in. on the end edges and 1/8 in. at the back (see Fig. The lids will not then have a tendency to warp, or get easily broken, the tongues acting as clamps. Corresponding grooves must be made in the top parts, which are then glued on, and the remainder of the top is covered. If the wood is kept of one thickness, the top should require little else than glasspapering, especially the checker-board, or perhaps a little use of the scraper, but if any of the blacks should require touching up, a marquetry stain will be best. The thicknessing and fitting of the sixty-four squares forming the checker-board are matters requiring great care. The box lids should be left fitting rather tightly till the top has been moulded, or they can be made tight by wetting the tongues and grooves, and closing the lids immediately; this causes them to swell, making it almost impossible to move them until they have become quite dry again. The top is fixed on by being screwed through the upper edge of the rails, which must be thumb-notched with a gouge inside, blocks being glued round it. The box bottoms may then be secured in place, and a thumb-mould, of 1 1/4-in. by 1/2-in. material, put under the rails, and fixed with screws. The flaps are made of 1/2-in. board to the shape shown by Fig. but the arms are again detached, for convenience in polishing both table and flaps. The lids should be eased sufficiently to enable them to be drawn by pressure of the thumb; and the space between the boxes may be utilised for a drawer. The table, with a cover on the top, can be used as a window table or for afternoon tea.

Fig. 2526.—Sliding Lid of Chess Table Box.

Fig. 2527.—Edge of Sliding Lid.

Fig. 2528.—Octagonal Occasional Table.

OCTAGONAL WITH

     Mahogany, walnut, or any other fancy wood will be suitable for making the octagonal table of which Fig. 2528 is an elevation; Fig. 2529 is a half plan looking up and a half plan looking down. The form and construction of the different joints and connections are clearly shown in the figures. The top should be in one piece, if wood sufficiently wide can be obtained, or it may be in two pieces jointed in the middle. To make a strong joint, the pieces should be dowelled and glued, and the joint held by a couple of cramps until the glue is thoroughly dry. Next true the top, then mark out and cut it to shape, and plane the edges true. The moulding can next be worked on the edges. The legs should be turned to the pattern shown in wood about 1 3/4 in. square. The upper ends of the legs will be improved if they are reeded as shown in Figs. and The rails should be trued, and the ends carefully mitred and grooved for a cross-tongue, or they may be dowelled. The pieces can then be placed in position on the top and fitted together. Four of the rails and legs can next be jointed and fitted together, the joint being shown by Fig. The top of the leg is forked to go over the rail, and the rail is notched on the inner side to keep the leg more rigid. A shallow groove should be made on each side of the leg for the bracket (see A, Fig. Then make the cross-rails connecting the leg, as shown in section by Fig. The small balusters and centre-piece connecting the rails (see Fig. should be obtained, and care must be taken to make the mortises in their true positions in the centre-piece. The rails are stub-tenoned into this piece, and also into the legs. The rails should now be bored for the pins on the ends of the small balusters. When the parts have been carefully fitted, the joints should be glued together. The rails are secured to the top by means of angle blocks fixed with glue (see Fig. The moulded fillet B should next be mitred round and fixed to the rail with glue and a few fine sprigs. The brackets are fixed to the legs and fillet with glue. The table should be finished with the scraper (if necessary), and rubbed with fine glasspaper in the direction of the grain of the wood.

Fig. 2529.—Top and Underneath Plans of Table.

Fig. 2530.—Part of Table Leg, Bracket, etc.

Fig. 2531.—Joint between Table Leg and Rail.

EASY

     The chair shown in Fig. 2533 as an easy chair and in Fig. 2534 as a lounge chair may be made of dark mahogany, American walnut, or oak. By means of the spring and stop-rack the seat and back can be made to form almost any inclined lounge. Pressing the button B 2533 and liberates the seat, which can be drawn along the cradle. The cradle consists of two sides joined by three rails, and each side has two rails D and D being 2 ft. 6 in. by 2 in. by 2 in., and E 2 ft. 4 in. by 2 in. by 2 in., with a tenon to fit into the leg The rails D and E are connected by four small turned pillars and a large one at one end, all being 7 in. long. The legs should all be turned similar to F the rail E being inserted into the leg F by means of a tenon, and the leg G let into the rail The dimensions of the legs allow the lower portion marked p to be inserted into the socket of the castor. A bead should be run along the top and bottom edges and joined with a similar bead at the ends on the outside of the rails, as shown. When the two sides are so far constructed, glue and screw at the bottom of the inside of the lower rail a bearer H projecting 1 in. and level with the front rail—that is, 1 in. from the top of the rail. Also insert the spring catch K as shown at S in Fig. with the button B projecting as shown in Figs. 2533 and The two sides being completed, join them by the three rails and C A is 1 ft. 8 in. by 2 in. by 1 in., and is flush with the front, and 1 in. from the top of the legs. B and C are each 1 ft. 8 in. long and 1 1/2 in. in diameter. One inch should be allowed at either end for the tenon. The seat and back are shown in Fig. The dimensions of all the parts are shown, and the material may be 1 in. thick.

Fig. 2532.—Centre-piece Balusters, etc.

Fig. 2533.—Easy Chair.

Fig. 2534.—Lounge Chair.

Fig. 2535.—Stop-rack for Chair.

COMPLETING THE

     When the framework is completed, join in the centre with two brass butt hinges as shown, and in the part intended for the seat insert the stop-rack R on the edge of the rail in the position marked X Y in Fig. and also as shown in Fig. The front plate M is screwed and glued to the front edge of the frame, and can be ornamented if desired; if cut as shown in Figs. 2533 and it will be found convenient for drawing out the seat when required for a lounge, and for preventing the seat going too far back when required for an easy chair. A margin of 1 in. should be allowed all round the inside of the frame for attaching the webbing and canvas for the upholstery. The framework and the two arms should be upholstered as shown in Figs. 2533 and and finished with a covering on the back. The whole of the woodwork should be glasspapered and polished.

Fig. 2536.—Cradle of Easy Lounge Chair.

PARLOUR

     The show wood parts of the couch, of which Fig. 2538 is a general view, should preferably be made of hard wood, the choice of which will depend on the surrounding furniture, but sound clean pine will be quite suitable for all the inside framework. Fig. 2539 shows a leg. The bottom frame should be made first of 3-in. by 2-in. pine, lap-jointed at the square end and dowelled at the round end, or foot, which can be sawn from a piece 4 in. wide, 3 in. thick, and 2 ft. long. The bottom frame is 5 ft. long by 2 ft. wide outside. The two cross-rails are housed into the side rails to a depth of 3/4 in., and dressed flush with the top and bottom. Particular care should be taken to avoid any twist in the frame when put together. Fig. 2540 shows the bottom frame. The legs are turned from wood blocks 10 in. long by 4 1/2 in. square, and the castors to be used should be given to the turner, Fig. 2539 being suited to socket castors. The side rail has a moulding attached to it, the latter being 1 3/8 in. wide by 1/2 in. thick, and decorated by a centre bead. At the foot the moulding will require kerfing or steaming to the sweep.

Fig. 2537.—Seat and Back of Lounge Chair.

Fig. 2538.—Parlour Couch.

Fig. 2539.—Couch Leg.

Fig. 2540.—Bottom Frame of Parlour Couch.

Fig. 2541.—Couch Head Frame.

HEAD OF

     A general view of the couch head is shown in Fig. and patterns of the stuffing scrolls and show-wood scrolls are given in Fig. The stuffing scrolls are of 1-in. stuff, and the show-wood scroll of 5/8 in. hard-wood, with the edges beaded, and the face is decorated to pattern with incised carving, the petals of the rosettes being worked slightly in low relief. The stuffing scrolls are framed up with two cross-rails, the top rail being 6 in. wide and housed into the scrolls, and the bottom rail 2 in. square and shoulder tenoned. The finished head should be exactly 2 ft. wide, and is secured to the bottom frame by three dowels at each side, glued and cramped. The show-wood scroll butts against the moulding.

BACK OF

     The couch back, with the exception of the baluster, is shown in Fig. the finial A being 1 ft. 4 in. long by 5 in. wide, and 1 1/2 in. thick, carved to pattern on the face side only, and centre-beaded on the outside edge. The top rail is 2 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, and has attached on the top a pine stuffing rail 2 in. by 1/2 in., on which the covers are tacked. The bottom rail is 1 1/2 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick, both rails being beaded on the face and tenoned into the finial. The baluster, a half pattern of which is shown in Fig. is of 1-in. hardwood sawn out to pattern and carved on the face; it is fixed by stub tenons to the top and bottom rails. The back rails are half jointed and screwed into the back of the couch head, and the legs are secured by three dowels to each, two being let into the side rail and the centre dowel into the cross-rail.

Fig. 2542.—Scroll Pattern.

Fig. 2543.—Back of Couch.

Fig. 2544.—Half Pattern of Baluster.

COMPLETING THE

     The couch above described is intended to be upholstered with a spring seat, spring swell, and spring bolster head, the bolster arm at the back being stuffed up firm. In Fig. 2545 is shown a part view of the swell and bolster head before the first stuffing is commenced. Five springs are required for the swell, and are sewn to the webs, and four springs will be sufficient for the bolster head, each being fastened to the rail with wire staples. The parts which require stitching up to a square edge are both sides of the swell, each end of the bolster head, and the back and front edges of the bottom, and also the round foot.

Fig. 2545.—Method of Springing Couch Head.