Cabinets Bookcases and Wall Shelves

How to build all types of cabinets, shelving and storage facilities for the modern home . . . 77 designs with complete working drawings and photographs . . . 630 illustrations

Edited by

MILTON GUNERMAN

Associate Editor, The Home Craftsman Magazine

Copyright © 2013 Read Books Ltd.

This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Making and Restoring Furniture

     Furniture is the mass noun for the movable objects intended to support various human activities, such as seating, storing, working and sleeping. Most often, at least in the present day - furniture is the product of a lengthy design process and considered a form of decorative art. In addition to furniture’s functional role, it can also serve a symbolic or religious purpose, for instance in churches, temples or shrines. It can be made from many materials, including metal, plastic, and wood, using a variety of techniques, joins and decoration, reflecting the local culture from which it originated. Furniture construction can be extremely technical, or very simple, dependent on the desired end product and skills of the maker.

     Numerous courses are available to provide a grounding in furniture making, generally designed to broaden practical (as opposed to art historical) knowledge of materials, tools and design. For the amateur maker, such options can be an extremely useful route into building and restoring their own furniture. Typically, restoring furniture has been seen as a job solely for the trained craftsman, however with the advent of readily available courses, books and online tutorials, it has never been easier to start yourself. Furniture construction and restoration does take a good deal of preparation and persistence, not to mention a keen eye for detail, but can be successfully achieved by any enthusiastic individual.

     One of the first things to assess, is what to look out for when purchasing (or evaluating your own) old furniture. As a general rule, if you are restoring furniture yourself, look for older mass-produced items, produced after the mid-nineteenth century. These (with some exceptions) will not have very high values, but are incredibly well made - able to last a long time in the family home. If in doubt, do ask an expert however! One should also be aware, that there are certain more recent styles and designers of furniture which are incredibly rare, for example Art Deco, Arts and Crafts, De Stijl and Bauhaus. Another key thing to look out for are ’dovetail joints’; they are strong and require skill to assemble, and are thereby generally a good sign of a well-constructed piece of furniture. Solid wood or plywood backing, for instance on the back or inside of drawers, are also good indicators of age, as solid wood will generally tell you that it is pre-twentieth century, whereas plywood was only utilised after this date. Perhaps more obviously, inscriptions and manufacturer’s stamps can tell the owner a lot about their piece of furniture.

     Painting and stencilling wood furniture is probably the most common, and easiest starting activity for the amateur furniture restorer. When finishing wood, it is imperative to first make sure that it has been adequately cleaned, removing any dust, shavings or residue. Subsequently, if there are any obvious damages or dents in the furniture, wood putty or filler should be used to fill the gaps. Imperfections or nail holes on the surface may be filled using wood putty (also called plastic wood; a substance commonly used to fill nail holes in wood prior to finishing. It is often composed of wood dust combined with a binder that dries and a diluent (thinner), and sometimes, pigment). Filler is normally used for an all over smooth-textured finish, by filling pores in the wood grain. It is used particularly on open grained woods such as oak, mahogany and walnut where building up multiple layers of standard wood finish is ineffective or impractical.

     After the furniture is thus smartened, it should then be sanded (without entirely removing the finish) and primed before a base coat of paint is applied. Aerosols will provide a smoother finish than paintbrushes. If stencilling afterwards, make sure that the base colour is completely dry before the final step is embarked upon.

     Recovering dining room chairs is another popular activity, involving skills with fabric as well as woodwork - also fashionable is metal furniture restoration. Metal work provides slightly different problems to those of traditional wood and chair restoring; one of the main questions is - do you actually want to make the piece ’as good as new?’ Rust and signs of wear can be removed to varying degrees, with many choosing to leave their pieces of furniture worn and torn; achieving ’the industrial look’, popular in design circles. This is especially the case for small-scale furniture like lighting, various ornaments such as candlesticks and even larger pieces such as cast-iron beds. If a metal piece is going to be painted, it is imperative to first remove the rust however. This is a time consuming, but ultimately rewarding task to complete, and can be done by a professional for larger objects. Once the metal is rust free, all that remains is to prime and paint! Antiquing effects can also be used, i.e. sanding off layers of paint (of differing colours if the maker prefers) - finished off with a clear protective finish.

     Today, British professional furniture makers have self organised into a strong and vibrant community, largely under the organisation ’The Worshipful Company of Furniture Makers’, commonly referred to as the Furniture Makers or the Furniture Makers Company. Its motto is ’Straight and Strong’! Members of the Company come from many professions and disciplines, but the common link is that all members on joining must be engaged in or with the UK furnishing industry. Thus the work of the Company is delivered by members with wide ranging professional knowledge and skills in manufacturing, retailing, education, journalism; in fact any aspect of the industry. There are many similar organisations across the globe, as well as in the UK, all seeking to integrate and promote the valuable art that is furniture making. Education is a key factor in such endeavours, and maintaining strong links between professional practitioners, didactic colleges and the amateur maker/restorer is crucial. We hope the reader enjoys this book.

Introduction

IF YOU have been keeping abreast of developments in designing, furnishing and decorating the modern home, you must have noticed the increasing importance of cabinets, bookcases and wall shelves. They are now being used with great skill by architects and interior decorators to provide needed storage facilities and at the same time add to the attractiveness of practically every room in the house.

     Fortunately, this type of furniture is not difficult for even the amateur to build. At relatively low cost for materials, a handy man or home craftsman can construct a variety of pieces that will have great utility and add immeasurably to the convenience of the household. At the same time, these pieces can be made to look so well that they will enhance the appearance of the rooms in which they are placed and lend them an individuality they might otherwise lack if furnished only with standard, factory-made pieces. In fact, such hand-made furniture, if carefully finished, often has an expensive custom-made look which can be duplicated commercially only at considerable expense.

     Cabinets are best, in fact, when they are designed to suit the room and the space they are to occupy. They often, indeed, serve a dual purpose. More and more you see cabinets placed to act as room dividers . . . built high to form a storage wall or partition . . . designed to flank a fireplace . . . arranged to separate a dining area from living-room space . . . constructed to form an intimate conversation center . . . used to segregate any special area such as one used for study or for viewing television.

     Because cabinets can be used in so many different ways, an attempt has been made in this book to illustrate a very great variety of designs. For this reason the designation, “cabinets, bookcases and wall shelves,” has been employed in its most general sense.

     Cabinets are shown with and without doors and drawers and in both period and contemporary styles. Some pieces which are commonly called chests have been included, as well as other pieces often referred to as cupboards. Special-purpose cabinets for holding china, phonograph records and children's toys are described, as well as one type of rod-and-gun cabinet.

     In the same way, the section on bookcases has been expanded to include magazine racks and baskets. And the designs for wall shelves include almost every imaginable kind, from small decorative brackets to shelving of substantial proportions. The collection of jigsawed wall shelves is one of the largest and best-designed to be published in book form.

     In the unlikely case that a certain wall space is available and no project in this book is precisely the right size, you can usually alter the dimensions of one of the designs within reasonable limits to make it fit. If not, consider the possibility of making a multiple unit or constructing a central unit and flanking it with two narrower or corner units. Many modern cabinets are built in units which are intended to be assembled in various ways to suit individual needs; and several designs of this type are given.

     It should be noted that kitchen cabinets are not included because they are in a class by themselves and have been covered completely in another book in this series, “How to Build Modern Kitchen Cabinets.”

     The projects in the present book are the work of well-known and exceptionally competent designers. Many of the pieces were constructed in the experimental workshop of the Home Craftsman Magazine in order to check the accuracy of the drawings in every respect and also to enable photos to be taken to illustrate how various operations are performed.

     The editor wishes particularly to acknowledge the help of Harry J. Hobbs, publisher, Arthur Wakeling, consulting editor, and Howard R. Berry, art director of the Home Craftsman Magazine. Among the many others who contributed designs are: Alvaro A. Altomare, W. Paul Breckley, F. D. Burt, L. A. Burton, Arthur Collani, W. J. Gee, Jr., William E. Glass, Jr., Franklin H. Gottshall, R. A. Gunerman, Seth Harmon, Russell C. Henderly, Jr., D. C. Marshall, Harrison Neustadt, Benjamin Nielsen, A. J. Price, Leonard S. and Myra Warner Rankin, E. H. Roberts, J. McKenzie Semple, Hi Sibley and Charles E. Troutt.

Milton Gunerman

Associate Editor, Home Craftsman Magazine

Table of Contents

CABINETS

Wardrobe Chests Built for Modern Needs

Dresser for Colonial Settings

Old Colonial Pine Chest

Rod and Gun Cabinet

Concealing Unsightly Radiator

Modern Bow-Front Hamper

Twin Pier Cabinets Frame Large Doorway

A Breakfast Cupboard

Modern China Cabinet for Dining Room

Modern Night Table Made for Service

Quaint Cabinet Enriches Any Setting

Colonial Style Fireplace with Storage Compartments

Convenient Built-In Shoe Polish Cabinet

Phonograph Record Cabinet

Open Record Rack Has Routed Panels

Built-In Wall Cabinet for Fire Extinguisher

All-Purpose Modern Style Cupboard

Children’s Phonograph and Record Cabinet

Modern Chest Has Family-Size Capacity

Cedarwood Chest with Drawers Is Easy to Build

Handy Cabinet Holds Photo Darkroom Items

Wall Rack for Sewing Room Holds Spools

Built-in Colonial Corner Cupboard

Hang a Small China Closet Above Your Breakfast Table

Smart Modern Chest Units

Modern Cabinet Units

Portable Sewing Cabinet

BOOKCASES and Magazine Racks

Handsome Bookcase and Cupboard

Pine Bookshelf Accents a Room

Bookcase, End Table and Bench

Ship’s Wheel Magazine Basket

New Design for a Modern Bookshelf

Magazine Basket Copied from Cradle

Extra Bookcase Can Be Built on Inside of Small Door

Magazine Basket Gets Theme from Horseshoe

Odd-Size Volumes Fit Modern Bookcase

Pine Book Shelf Provides Space for 300 Volumes

Lyre Design Ornaments Jigsawed Magazine Basket

Contemporary Bookcase and Desk Combination

Modern Corner Shelf

Bookcase Any Beginner Can Build

One-Piece Magazine Rack

Nantucket Magazine Rack

Window-Sill Shelf Holds Plants, Books and Magazines

Double-Duty Bookcase Holds Curios, Knickknacks

New Bookcase-Radio for Housing an Old Set

WALL SHELVES

Two Wall Shelves Cut Out on Jig Saw

Graceful Lotus-Flower Wall Bracket

Corner What-Not

Collector’s Hanging Shelf

Colonial Dish Shelf Accents Room

Bric-a-Brac Shelf Built in Wall

Gold-Leafed Brackets

Antique Bric-a-Brac Shelf

Candlestick Pattern Enriches Hanging Shelves

Simple Carving Decorates Wall Bracket

Wall Bracket Handy for Shaving Bowl

Hanging Shelf Made of Pine

Vanity Shelf and Bench Fit Limited Space

Wall Bracket Holds Test Tubes for Flowers

Wall Bracket Supports Ivy Pot

Jigsawed Toy Shelf

Cheesebox Wall Shelf

Making Colonial Corner Shelves

Gardeners Need This Seed Cabinet

Peacock Wall Bracket

Airy Wall Shelf

Swan Flower Bracket

Paired Wall Brackets

Dancing Dutch Girl Corner Bracket

Collector’s Shelf

Bluebell Shelf

Dutch Windmill Ivy Bracket

Pair of Hanging Pier Shelves

Novel Scroll-Edge Wall Shelf

Open Shelves Utilize Blank Wall Space in Kitchen

Corner Bric-a-Brac Shelf

INDEX

WARDROBE Chests BUILT FOR MODERN NEEDS

CONVENTIONAL chests of drawers for the bedroom do not always fulfill modern needs. Chest drawers, for instance, do not accommodate laundered shirts efficiently for the obvious reason that the style of such chests has changed little down through the years. This and other minor annoyances have been considered in the design of this group of up-to-date chests. Three units compose the entire ensemble shown here. Two of them are identical with drawers; the other has a series of shelves.

     Aside from the unique advantage of varied arrangement afforded by the group—they may be placed in several different positions along the wall—the group meets the requirements of the amateur craftsman inasmuch as all panels are cut from large sheets of plywood, and joints have been simplified to come within the means of the small workshop.

     The construction of this chest may be handled as two separate units. Unit (B) is the center section of which only one is required, while two units of (A) will be needed for the side sections. Since the (A) units require more work, these should be started first. Four pieces of stock the sizes of which are given in the bill of materials will be required for the sides. These members, after being cut to the proper size, have a 9/16″ × 9/16″ rabbet cut on the inside face at the top. The back edge and lower end have rabbets cut on the same face but in this case the rabbets are 9/16″ deep and 3/4″ wide.

Two chests with drawers of just the right size for shirts and similar items of apparel are made to flank a taller chest that has shelves which can be adjusted for hats and shoes

SIMPLE DRAWER RUNNERS

     The two outside units are to be equipped with drawers to hold such wearing apparel as would be kept in any chest of drawers. It will be necessary to install drawer runners for this purpose. The stock for the drawer runners is cut to the size given in the bill of materials. The 3/4″ × 1 3/4″ runners must be rabbeted as shown in the drawing. This rabbet is 1/8″ deep and 3/4″ wide. The location of the runners must be established on each side piece. The strips have three holes bored in each one to take flat head wood screws. The holes must be then countersunk. Screws 2″ long are needed for the wide runners while 1 1/4″ screws will be long enough for the 3/4″ ones. When these runners are being fastened in place, there are two things that must be kept in mind. First, be sure to place the wide runners against the side to which the door of the unit is to be hinged. Secondly, be certain that they are parallel so that the trays can slide freely.

Photos at left show how the sides are rabbeted for back and top. Below, bottom screws to base

     The back is made of a piece of stock cut to the dimensions given in the bill of materials. The lower inside end of this member has a 9/16″ × 3/4″ rabbet cut on it as shown in the sketch. The top is cut to the proper size and the inside back end has a rabbet 9/16″ deep and 3/4″ wide cut on it. The front is rabbeted on the upper face 3/16″ × 3/16″. The bottom is cut to the size given in the bill of materials and the holes located through which pass the screws that fasten the base to the bottom. These are placed 7/8″ from the front end and 11/16″ from the side edges and back end. Each base is made of four pieces of 3/4″ × 2 3/4″ stock. Two of these members have 9/16″ × 3/4″ rabbets cut at each end as shown in the sketch.

The (A) unit chest shown at left, above, has wide drawer runners on one side to allow for the door. The (B) unit at right shows sides and back

     The various members which go to make up these outer units should now be sandpapered thoroughly to prepare the work for assembling. Glue and 1 1/2″ brads are used to put the work together. The sides are attached to the back piece first; this is followed by fastening the top in place. The base members should be assembled, then fastened to the bottom with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flat head wood screws. The bottom is now ready to be fastened to the sides and back. All brads should be set and the excess glue wiped off with a damp cloth. Clamps should be applied to hold the cabinet together while the glue is given time to set. After the clamps have been tightened on the work, check the corners with a try-square to make certain they are true.

MAKING THE CENTER CHEST

     While these cabinets are in the clamps, the work of constructing the center, or (B) unit, may be undertaken. The procedure as outlined above for making the side, or (A) units, should be followed when building this section. The only point at which a change will have to be made is when the sides have been cut and rabbeted. As shown in the sketch this unit is to have movable shelves. Provisions will have to be made for them as shown in the sketch. This consists of two series of holes bored in the inside face. One row of holes is located 2″ from the front while the other row of holes is located 4″ in from the rabbet on the back. The holes are placed 2″ apart in each row. They are 1/4″ in diameter and bored to a depth of 3/8″. Dowels 1/4″ in diameter or regular metal shelf supports may be used to hold the shelves in place. This unit is assembled in the same manner as the other.

     The shelves for the center unit are now cut to the proper size and fitted in place. If dowels are used to support the shelves, the size as given in the bill of materials is correct; but if the metal shelf supports are used, they will have to be cut about 3/16″ shorter.

While the ensemble is composed of three units, one may be omitted if not needed

Photos and sketch above show the simple box-like construction of drawers for one unit. At left the other unit is shown with a series of adjustable shelves

     The doors are cut to size and fitted to their respective cabinets. After they have been fitted properly they are hung with 2″ brass butts. The hinges should be mortised into the side as well as the edge of the door. The center unit will require a door stop. This is made of a piece of 1/4″ × 1/4″ stock 33 3/4″ long. It is fastened against the side, 3/4″ in from the edge, with glue and 3/4″ brads. The door pulls are cut to the proper size then shaped as shown in the cross section. The ends are rounded off at a radios of 1″. The door pulls are placed as shown in the drawing. They are fastened to the doors with glue and 1 1/2″ flat head screws. Holes will have to be bored and countersunk in the door to take the screws.

     The drawers or trays are made of plywood stock, cut to the dimensions given in the bill of materials. The drawer fronts are to be shaped as shown in the drawing. In order to do this, a pattern will have to be made, then the outline is traced on each of the members. They are cut on the jig saw or band saw and finished on the drum sander or by hand with a file. The sides are glued and fastened to the front and back members with 1″ No. 17 brads. The bottom is glued and fastened to the side members with 3/4″ No. 18 brads. The trays should be sanded thoroughly and fitted in place. If any trimming of the drawers is necessary to make them slide easily, it should be done at this time.

     The cabinet drawers and shelves are given a coat of shellac and sanded down with No. 00 sandpaper. All open grain such as the ends of the plywood panels, cracks and nail holes should be filled and rubbed down. This is followed with another coat of shellac and is sandpapered a second time. A coat of enamel or lacquer in whatever shade is desired is applied after the sanding of the second coat of shellac. A second and third coat will complete the work.

Bill of Materials

Dresser FOR COLONIAL SETTINGS

Easily constructed pine dresser and hanging shelves display best china while staring linen and silver

DINING rooms and breakfast nooks having Colonial furnishings will become more charming settings by the addition of these simple, old-fashioned pieces. Made in two separate parts, the set illustrated here provides more freedom in room arrangement than would the conventional type of one-piece dresser. Either piece may be built and used by itself. All the conveniences of storage are to be found in the cupboard for linens and the commodious drawer for silver. The shelf, too, affords storage of china but is intended chiefly for display of best pieces.

     Construction of the cupboard is started with the sides. It will be necessary to glue up two pieces of 3/4″ stock to obtain a panel which can be finished to a width of 17″. The pieces should be doweled together. After the panels have been made up they are finished to the correct size, 17″ × 32 1/4″. A 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut along the back edge, on the inside face of these members, to take the back. The location of the bottom, shelf and drawer support frame should be established on the inside face of these side members. The bottom and shelf panels are made up by doweling together two pieces of 3/4″ stock 8″ and 10″ wide. The bottom is finished to a width of l6 3/4″ and a length of 28 1/2″, while the shelf should measure 16″ × 28 1/2″. These members are fastened to the sides with 8-penny finishing nails. The bottom should be flush with the outside edge of the side members, while the shelf should set back 3/4″ from this edge. The drawer support frame is made of 3/4″ × 3″ stock which is assembled by means of dowel joints. After the frame has been glued it is fastened in place in the same manner as the shelf and bottom.

     The top panel is glued up of two pieces to an overall size of 17 3/4″ × 31 1/2″. A 1/4″ × 3/8″ stopped rabbet is cut on the under face of the back edge to take the back panel. The rabbets stop within 7/8″ of each end. The greater part of the rabbet can be cut on the bench saw, but the trimming of the corners must be done by hand with a chisel. The back panel is fastened in place with 1 1/4″ brads at this time to keep the case square. The stiles on each side of the door are cut to size and fastened in place with 2″ brads. The top is set in place and fastened to the sides with 8-penny finishing nails. The plinth is made up of 3/4″ × 3 1/2″ stock cut to the lengths shown in the drawing. The butting ends are mitered, then the members are fastened to the case with 1 1/2″ brads. The door is made up of two pieces glued together. Hinges and latch are fastened in place last.

     The drawer sides and back are made of 1/2″ stock, while the front is 3/4″. Two pieces 4 1/2″ wide and 16 1/2″ long will be required for the sides. The front requires a piece 4 1/2″ wide and 28 1/2″ long. These three pieces must have a 1/4″ groove, 1/4″ deep, cut on the inside face 1/4″ above the lower edge to take the bottom. The ends of the front member are rabbeted 1/2″ × 1/2″ on the inside face. The two side members have a 1/2″ dado, 1/4″ deep, cut across the inside face, 3/4″ from the end, to take the back drawer member. The back is a piece of stock 4″ × 28″. The bottom is a piece of 1/4″ plywood 16 1/4″ × 28″. All members are assembled with glue and brads. The drawer pulls may be turned, or ordinary wooden door stops may be cut down and used as shown in the main photograph.

     The sides, top and shelves of the hanging portion of this unit are made of 3/4″ stock, while the back is made of 1/2″ material. The molding used under the top is a piece of 3/4″ × 1 3/4″ bed molding. A full-size pattern of the scrolled sides should be enlarged on 1″ graph squares. The pattern is traced on the stock, 8 1/2″ × 37 1/2″, and the scroll is cut on the jig saw or band saw and finished smooth with file and sandpaper.

     The location of the three shelves should be established on the inside face of the side members according to dimensions given in the front view. The back edge of the side members has a 1/2″ × 1/2″ rabbet cut along the inside face to take the back paneling. This rabbet starts at the top and extends down as far as the bottom of the lower shelf.

     The three shelves may now be cut to size. The top shelf is 7″ wide, the center shelf 7 1/2″ wide and the bottom shelf 7 3/4″ wide. All three shelves measure 28 1/2″ long. The apron is made of a piece of stock finished to a width of 3 1/2″ and a length of 30″. The shelves are fastened in place with glue and 2 1/2″ brads or 8-penny finishing nails with heads set below the surface of the side member. The apron is set in place and fastened to the side members with 1 3/4″ brads.

MOLDING FITS RABBETED TOP

     The top is made of a piece of stock 8 3/4″ wide and 32 1/2″ long. A 1/2″ × 1 1/4″ rabbet is cut on the front edge and two ends as shown in the detail sketch. Along the back edge a 1/2″ × 1/2″ rabbet is cut to take the back paneling. The top is fastened to the sides and apron with 1 3/4″ brads driven through the top and into these members. The bed molding is set in the rabbet of the top as shown in the drawing and photograph. The molding is cut to fit in place and mitered at the ends which form the corners, but left square at the cabinet back. It is fastened in position with 1 1/4″ brads.

     The back is made of random widths of 1/2″ stock 30 3/4″ long. These pieces should have tongue-and-groove edges. The exposed face of the stock may have the edges finished as a V-joint or they may be beaded. The back is nailed in place by driving 1 1/2″ brads through the back and into the shelves and top. The work should be sandpapered thoroughly with No. 1 sandpaper and finished with No. 00. All nail holes should be filled and if necessary sandpapered again.

     The completed cabinet and shelves should be given a coat of stain. This is followed with at least two coats of shellac which should be rubbed down with steel wool. The work should be dusted thoroughly to remove all particles of steel wool before paste wax is applied. Several coats are required, and from time to time additional coats should be added to retain a protective coat.

Old COLONIAL Pine Chest

Easy to Make and Costs Very Little Holds Blankets or Toys

EVERY household can find a place for this versatile chest. In the bedroom it will serve for storage of blankets, in the dining room it can be used to hold linens, and in the youngster’s room it will make an ideal chest for toys. Made in traditional Colonial style it is simple enough for home workshop construction and yet fashionable among other furniture copied from the Colonial period.

     The chest should be made of kilndried clear white pine. If possible the materials should be obtained in the required widths of 17″ and 20″; otherwise it will be necessary to glue up several pieces of narrow stock to obtain the panels. Front and back members of the chest are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock finished to a width of 16″ and a length of 41 1/2″. A rabbet, 1/2″ × 3/4″, is cut along each end to take the end members. The end members are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock finished to an overall size of 16″ × 16 1/2″. Inside faces should be sandpapered before assembly. Front and back members are fastened to the end members with glue and 8-penny finishing nails. The nails are set, then clamps are applied. The assembled case must be checked with a try square to make certain that the corners are square. If it should be out of square, the case should be forced into its proper position and held there by temporary diagonal braces fastened at two corners. This should all be done before the glue has had time to set and prevent later adjustment.

     The bottom of the chest measures 3/4″ × 18 1/4″ × 42 3/4″. The edge is molded as shown in the drawing. It can be cut by a standard cutter. The photograph shows this operation on the drill press. If such a cutter is not available, the molding may be cut by a series of saw cuts made on the bench saw and shaped with gouge and plane. The molding should be sandpapered by a block having the same contour. Before the bottom is assembled to the case, the outer surfaces of the case should be sandpapered and all tool marks and blemishes removed. The bottom is fastened to the case with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws. Holes for the screws should be bored and countersunk in the underside of the bottom at this time.

Photo at right shows how the ends of the chest fit the rabbeted sides to form the case. At left, the bottom panel is shown as the molded edge is being cut by a shaper cutter set up in the drill press

The open lid of this chest needs no support. It can be placed at the end of the bed or against a wall. The undercut lid molding provides this very desirable feature

Feet for chest are made of two scrolled members reinforced by cleat. They are screwed to bottom

Here the top edge of the assembled case is planed so corners are perfectly smooth

     Feet for the chest come next. Each foot is made of two members joined together and reinforced with a cleat as shown in the sketch. Eight pieces of 3/4″ stock, 4 1/2″ wide and 5″ long will be required for the feet. Cleats measure 3/4″ × 3/4″ × 4 1/2″. A full-size pattern of the foot can be drawn on graph squares and cut to shape on the band saw or jig saw. A wood file should be used to finish the cut edges. The straight edge of each foot member is mitered at an angle of 45 degrees. This cut can be made on the bench saw by tilting the saw table or arbor. The pieces are fastened together with glue and brads; the cleat is fastened with glue and 1 1/4″ No. 8 flat head screws. The completed feet are attached to the underside of the chest with 1″ No. 8 and 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws. Holes to take these screws-must be bored and counterbored in each foot member as indicated on the drawing.

Top photo shows how a rabbet plane is used to start the molding around the top panel. Second photo shows a block plane being used to round off the edge

     The top panel is made of a piece of 3/4″ stock, 19″ wide and 43 1/2″ long. The edge is molded as shown in the drawing. Since this is too large for the average shaper it will have to be done by hand The photographs show the first and second steps of cutting this molding. A rabbet plane is used to produce the rabbet, and a block plane is used to round off the ends and edges. Two battens measuring 3/4″ × 3 1/2″ × 15″ are fastened to the underside of the top to prevent warping. They are held in place with glue and 1 1/4″ No. 10 flat head screws. The top is hinged to the back with 3″ brass butts. The two handles and lock escutcheon plate are fastened in place.

     The chest is finished with a coat of boiled linseed oil and turpentine mixed together in equal parts. This application is given a day or two to dry. A coat of pine stain is applied next. Three coats of white shellac follow the stain, and several applications of wax complete the work.

Rod AND Gun CABINET

THE SPORTSMAN CAN MAKE

This compact cabinet of modern design holds shells and many small accessories in one side and fishing rods in the other while guns are proudly displayed behind glass in the center

SPORTING equipment deserves a place where it can be kept intact when it is not in use, and more than that, it should be well displayed. Construction of this modern cabinet accomplished both objectives.

     Work on the cabinet starts with the floor. This piece is made of 3/4″ stock, the size of which is listed in the bill of materials. The shape of this piece is shown in one of the detail drawings, but before it is cut as shown, the two dado grooves that are to take the sides should be laid out and cut. These dadoes are located 5 3/8″ in from each end and are 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep. This leaves a space between them of 11 1/2″. A dado head set up in the saw table should be used to make these cuts, or they may be made by hand with a back saw and a chisel or a hand router. When this has been done, the piece should be laid out to the correct shape. The width of each section that forms the floor of the side compartments measures 7 3/4″. After the lines have been drawn, the stock may be cut on a band saw or jig saw and then finished smooth with a wood file and sandpaper.

     The tops of the center and side cabinets are cut to the sizes given in the bill of materials. On the back edge a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut to take the plywood back. The sides of the small compartments are made of 3/4″ stock. These pieces are rabbeted on the back edge, 3/4″ × 3/8″, the same as the top members, to take the back. The upper and lower ends of the side pieces are rabbeted to take the top and bottom. These rabbets are 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep and should be cut so that the top and bottom members will fit flush with the ends. The sides of the center compartments are cut to size and the upper ends are rabbeted in the same manner as the sides of the small compartments.

     The next thing that must be done is to establish the point, 4″ from the top of the center section, where the side compartments are to be joined to the center section. Locate and bore the holes for the 1 1/4″ No. 7 screws that are used to fasten these members together. The holes should be counterbored to a depth of 3/8″ to take wood plugs. These plugs should be cut and applied after the units have been assembled. The back edge of the center compartment sides should be rabbeted to take the back. One of the photographs shows how a continuous rabbet is formed. The rabbet that extends the full length of the side can be cut on the circular saw without any difficulty. Downward from a point 4 3/8″ from the top, the back of this piece is finished free from any projecting wood. Most of this cutting can be done on the circular saw but the corner is finished with hand tools.

     One of the compartments should be provided with shelves. These shelves should be movable in order to obtain as much room as possible for storage. The shelf support brackets as shown in the detail drawing may be obtained in any hardware store It is advisable to obtain these before attempting to bore the holes in the sides of the cabinet. While the support shown in the detail calls for a pin of 5/16″ diameter, a 1/4″ pin will be just as satisfactory, provided holes of the corresponding size are bored to take it. The holes to take the rear set of supports are located 1 1/2″ in from the back and 6 1/2″ from the back for the forward set. The holes are started 6″ from the top and then every 2″ thereafter. The last set of holes may be from 4″ to 6″ from the bottom. When boring the holes, it is not necessary to go beyond 3/8″ as this is all that is required to take the pin.

Here, sketch and photo show the cabinet floor dadoed for sides of center

     The other compartment is designed to hold fishing rods; therefore it will not be necessary to supply shelves for it but if the builder so desires, he may lay out and bore holes for shelf supports if he has no intention of keeping rods in the case.

     The various members that are now completed should be sandpapered thoroughly in order to prepare the work for assembling. The center section is assembled first. This is done by gluing and fastening the sides to the bottom with 1 1/2″ brads. The top is then glued in place between the sides and held temporarily with clamps. The side compartments may now be assembled to the center section. The side pieces are fastened to the bottom with glue and brads. Use a nail net on all brads. The tops of the compartments are attached to the center compartment with 1 1/4″ No. 7 screws. The wooden plugs are cut and glued in the counterbored holes to cover the heads of the screws. After the glue that was used to fasten the plugs in place has set, the plugs should be trimmed off flush with the side by means of a sharp chisel and smoothed with sandpaper.

     The sides at the top of the center section and the side compartments should be rounded off at a radius of 3/8″. The back is made of 1/4″ plywood and should be cut to the shape of the cabinet. When laying out this panel, it is most important that the corners be kept square as this is the part of the work that will keep the cabinet square. After the panel has been cut and fitted in the rabbets, it should be glued and fastened in place with 1″ brads.

     The doors of the side compartments are made of 3/4″ stock and should be fitted to the openings. These doors should have splines inserted in the ends to help prevent them from warping. This is done by cutting a groove 1/4″ wide and 2″ deep in each end, then gluing a hardwood spline, 1/4″ × 2″ × 5″, in the groove.

     The door of the main section is made of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock, cut to the lengths given in the bill of materials. The rails are joined to the stiles with mortise and tenon joints. The mortises in the stiles are 1/4″ wide, 7/8″ long and 1″ deep. They are placed in the center of the stile, with the end of the mortise 1/4″ from end of the stock. These mortises may be cut on the drill press, set up as a hollow mortiser, or they may be cut by hand, using a 1/4″ auger bit and a chisel. The rails and stiles are rabbeted to take a glass. These rabbets are wide and 1/4″ deep. After the rails have been rabbeted, tenons should be laid out on the ends. The outside face of the rail has a shoulder that is 1″ from the end, while the inside face has a shoulder 5/8″ from the end. The outside edge has a shoulder 5/8″ from the end, while the inside edge has a shoulder 1″ from the edge. The tenon itself measures 1/4″ thick and 7/8″ wide and is located 1/4″ from each face.

Bill of Materials

Spraying the cabinet in two colors—the inside of the center section in a lighter color than the rest of the cabinet—called for masking with paper and Scotch tape where the two colors met in a sharp line

The base viewed from above shows a filler block inside the front, and cleats added with screw holes for attaching to the floor

     When the joints have been cut and the members fitted together, the pieces may be sandpapered and prepared for gluing. When applying the clamps, make certain that the frame is not forced out of square. Check the corners with a try-square and as an additional pre-caution measure the diagonal distance from corner to corner.

     The base is made of 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock, cut to the sizes given in the bill of materials. The base under the main section should be assembled first. The forward corners should be mitered, glued, and fastened together with 1 1/4″ brads. This unit is then fastened to the back member with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head wood screws. The pieces that form the base under the side compartments are mitered, glued and fastened together at the outer corner with 1 1/4″ brads. These are then attached to the main section of the base with 1 1/2″ brads. A filler piece must be added inside the main section of the base at the front, to allow for the space taken up by the door. Cleats of 3/4″ × 3/4″ stock are cut and fitted inside each of the boxes formed by the base members. These strips are used to take the screws which fasten the base to the cabinet.

     The gun rack is made of a piece of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock, shaped as shown in the detail or altered to fit special requirements. This piece is mounted to the back, 36″ above the bottom with three 1″ screws driven through the back panel and into the rack. Each stock rest is made of three members. The main block is made of 1 1/2″ × 2″ × 4″ stock, cut to the shape of the end of the gun stock. The 1/4″ pieces that are fastened to each side of the main block have the same contour of the block but project 1/4″ beyond the top. These three pieces are glued together. They are fastened to the base with 1 1/2″ wood screws, driven through the bottom and into the block.

     The shelves are cut to size and fitted in place. The number of these will depend on the individual’s requirements. The side compartment doors are hung with 2″ brass butts mortised into the side and edge of the door. The center door is hung with the same size butts, mortised into the inside face of the door frame and the edge of the side piece. Locks are advisable on all doors.

     The glass for the center door measures 10 3/4″ × 54 1/4″ and is held in the rabbet with a small quarter-round molding. Door stops, 1/4″ square and 5″ long, are fastened inside the small compartments at the top and bottom.

     The finish of the cabinet will depend on the place where it is to be kept. It may be stained and varnished or it may be enameled or lacquered. In any location the guns will be displayed more advantageously if the center cabinet interior is finished with a light colored lacquer.

CONCEALING UNSIGHTLY RADIATORS

Attractive radiator covers go a long way to improve any room. Not only do they hide or at least camouflage the heating coils, but they also provide additional shelf space if suitable insulation is used under the wood tops. Studies have proved, too, that well-designed radiator covers or cabinets do not interfere with the over-all efficiency of the heating system

RADIATOR covers go a long way toward dressing up those unsightly radiators that are found in most homes provided with central heating. If insulated on the under face with asbestos, Celotex or rock wool, the covers will provide a surface for books and other appointments that help improve the appearance of a room. In the summertime, of course, radiator covers provide an excellent place for the display of plants and flowers.

     The accompanying photographs show two radiator covers. The modern design is rather formal and requires a fair amount of skill for its construction; the other is well within the capabilities of any home craftsman to build without any difficulty.

     The cover with the rounded ends does not require the use of a grille, but uses the radiator itself to produce the effect shown. Mahogany plywood is used for all surfaces that are visible, and any hardwood for the interior framework that cannot be seen.

     Construction is started with the end units as shown in Fig. The framework of each unit consists of four forms and two posts. The posts are made of 1/2″ × 1 1/2″ stock and, as shown in Fig. should be 3/4″ longer than the overall height of the radiator. The forms are made of 3/4″ × 4 1/2″ stock at least 15″ long.

     The layout of the form, as shown in Fig. is based on a radiator the front of which is located no more than 10 1/2″ from the wall. Should it be necessary to make a cover deeper than this, the 2″ dimension can be increased accordingly without changing the 9″ radius. A full-size pattern of the form should be laid out and then traced on the stock. The forms are then cut to shape. The posts are fastened to the forms with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flathead screws as shown in Fig.

     The 1/8″ mahogany-faced plywood panel should be the same length as the post. The width can best be determined by actually measuring with a steel tape the area to be covered and then cutting the panel at least 1″ wider. The back of the panels may be scored slightly on the bench saw to facilitate bending around the forms.

     The panels are glued to the forms. Glue is spread on all butting surfaces; then the panel is placed over the form and clamped to the posts as shown in Fig. The panel is later trimmed flush with the form. As shown in Fig. the surface which comprises the end of the panel and the edge of the post is faced with mahogany veneer.

     The top and lower rails, as shown in Fig. can now be prepared. The top rail is made of 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock at least 3″ longer than the required opening of the cover, which should be equal to the overall length of the radiator. The purpose of the extra 3″ is to allow for cutting and fitting the ends. The lower rail is 1/2″ × 3″ stock, 1 1/2″ longer than the opening. This member is joined to the end units by means of mortise-and-tenon joints as shown in Fig. Screws are used to secure the top rail to the forms, and glue is used for joining the tenons on the lower rail to their respective mortises cut in the posts.

     The top is 3/4″ plywood with mahogany facing. It is cut to fit flush with the outer contour of the assembled lower section as shown in Fig. A band of mahogany veneer 1 1/2″ wide is applied to the outer edge of the top.

     Finishing of the cover will require the use of stain, a paste filler, a coat of shellac and several coats of clear varnish or lacquer.

     The second radiator cover, as shown in the smaller photograph and in Figs. 6 and can be made of almost any clear stock. The 3/4″ thick end members must be 1 1/2″ wider than the depth of the radiator from the wall and 1 1/2″ longer than the height of the radiator. The lower ends are cut out as in Fig. 6 to produce feet.

     Two side rails made of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock and cut 3 3/4″ shorter than the length of the end members, are now prepared. The lower end of each side rail is notched to take the lower rail as shown in Fig. These pieces are screwed to the inside face of the end members, the upper end of the rail being placed 3/4″ below the top of the end members. Cleats 3/4″ square are fastened as shown in Fig. 6 for securing the prepared top panel.

     The upper and lower rails are 3/4″ 1 1/2″ and as long as the required inside length of the cover as shown in Fig. The metal grille, which can be obtained in almost any large hardware store or building supply house, is cut to fit on the rails and is secured with 1/2″ No. 4 flathead screws. Half-round molding 3/4″ wide is then applied with 1″ brads.

     The top is 3/4″ stock cut 1 1/4″ wider than the end members and 3″ longer than the inside length of the radiator cover. This piece is secured to the framework by driving 1 1/4″ No. 7 flathead screws up through the cleats and upper front rail and into the under face of the top.

     The finish depends on individual choice. If the cover is to be painted, it should be given a coat of shellac, then two coats of interior gloss or semigloss paint in whatever color is desired. For a stained finish the stain is applied and followed by paste filler if the cover has been made of open-grain wood. This treatment is followed by a coat of shellac and two coats of clear varnish or lacquer. The kind of wood used for construction will help to determine the most appropriate finish.

Modern Bow-Front

HAMPER

Even a Utility Piece Can Have Pleasing Style as Demonstrated by the Hamper Presented Here for Construction in the Home Workshop at Low Cost

AN EXTREMELY useful and attractive bathroom hamper can be made with a few simple tools and low-cost materials. If plywood and fiberboard are difficult to obtain for the front and back, wallboard of the compressed paper variety may be substituted. Since a lightweight hamper is desirable, the plans are based on 1/8″ material for the back and front panels. However, 1/4″ paneling can be substituted, and adjustment made in cutting the other members. As a matter of fact, if wallboard is used, it should be at least 1/4″ thick.

     The sides of the hamper are made of two pieces of 3/4″ pine 10 1/8″ wide and 23 1/4″ long. The front edge of each piece is beveled as shown in the top view to conform with the sweep of the front panel. The bevel extends back 3/8″ on the outside face of the side member. The back edge of these pieces has a 1/2″ × 1/8″ rabbet cut to take the back panel. If the panel used is 1/4″ thick, this rabbet will have to be 1/4″ deep. The front and back top rails are set into gains cut in the upper end of each side piece. The gain for the back rail is 3/4″ × 1″ and is cut 1/2″ deep. The gain for the front rail is the same size but it must be laid out parallel to the bevel of the front edge.

     The bottom is made of 3/4″ stock 11 3/4″ wide and 22 1/2″ long. If a 1/4″ back panel is used the bottom should be finished to a width of 11 5/8″. The forward edge of the bottom member must be curved. To lay out this sweep the location of the forward edge of the side members must be established on the bottom. This point is either 10″ from the back edge or 9 7/8″ depending on whether a 1 1/8″ or 1/4″ panel is used. The arc is drawn with the aid of a thin strip of wood bent to join these two outside points and forward edge of the board at the center. The marked edge is shaped with a plane and spokeshave.

     The top front rail is made of 3/4″ stock 3″ wide and 23 1/2″ long. The forward edge should have the same sweep as that of the bottom piece and can be marked by tracing the curve from the bottom piece. After the forward edge of the top rail has been shaped, a line is gauged 1″ from this curved edge and parallel to it throughout its length. The concave inner edge is produced by cutting the stock with a coping or keyhole saw and finishing with a spokeshave.

     The pieces can now be assembled to produce the framework of the hamper. Eightpenny finishing nails should be used. One of the photographs shows these members assembled and ready for front and back panels. If the bevel on the forward edge of the side members does not conform with the sweep of the arc final planing will correct the work as in the second construction photograph.

     The back panel is cut to size and fitted in place. Air holes near the top and bottom of this panel should be located and bored before the panel is fastened in place with twopenny nails. The front panel should be cut wider than is actually needed; the excess can be trimmed off after the panel is in place. The front panel should be fastened with 1″ brads along the entire edge of one side member first. It is then bent over the frame and fastened along the other edge.

     The top overhangs the case on three sides and is made of 3/4″ stock: one piece is 1 1/8″ wide by 25″ long, while the other piece is 11 3/8″ × 25″. The narrow piece is fastened permanently to the case, over the back rail. The wide piece has its forward edge shaped to conform with the sweep of the cabinet front. The cover is hinged with 2″ brass butts. The handles are made of two pieces of 1 3/4″ round stock 4″ long with one surface flattened.

The photo above shows how the two top rails and the bottom panel join the side members to form the casa of the hamper. Notice the curved front rail and bottom

Top photo illustrates how the sides may need final trimming to farm a fair curve. Below, C clamps help to hold the panel in place while it is being nailed to sides

TWIN Pier Cabinets FRAME LARGE DOORWAY

Chippendale Shelves Solve Awkward Problem and Make a Handsome Place for Art Objects

These cabinets point the way toward replacing your out-moded portieres and gracefully filling their place

CONSTRUCTION of these twin cabinets should be started with the back frame. Each one consists of two uprights or stiles made of 1/2″ stock, 1 1/8″ wide and 51″ long. A groove is cut on the inside edges of these pieces 3/16″ wide and 1/4″ deep. The location of this groove is shown on the detail of the intermediate rail and shelf assembly as 5/32″ in from the outer face. The intermediate rails are made of stock of the same thickness, 1″ wide and 6 1/2″ long. Both edges of each piece are grooved in the same manner as the stiles. The top rail is made of 1/2″ stock, 3 1/4″ × 8 1/2″ while the bottom rail is the same thickness but 4 1/4″ wide and 6 1/2″ long. Both the top and bottom rails are grooved to take the back panels. The upper ends of the stiles, as well as both ends of the intermediate and bottom rails, have tongues 1/4″ long cut to fit into the grooves of their adjoining member.

     The top rail is pierced as shown in the photograph and the drawing. Make a pattern on graph squares and trace onto the stock. Drill a small hole in each section that is to be removed and insert a fine jig saw blade. The edges of the pierced work should be finished with a file and sandpaper.

     The panels which form the back of the cabinets are made of 1/4″ plywood, 6 1/2″ wide and 9″ long. Each of these is pierced on the jig saw. There are two different patterns required as shown in the drawing. For both cabinets, four panels of one design and six of the other are required to complete the back assembly. Patterns of both will have to be laid out with the aid of the graph square drawing. It will not be necessary to draw the pattern of each complete panel as a pattern of one-quarter of the entire panel is sufficient and far more accurate than a complete one. Use a sheet of wrapping paper 3 1/4″ × 4 1/2″ laid out with 1/2″ graph squares for each of the patterns. In order to trace the complete pattern on the stock, the latter should have two center lines drawn on the face, one going with the grain and the other across the grain. This divides the stock in quarters, which will be the exact size of the quarter pattern.

Bill of Materials

The lathe and the jig saw combine on this piece of work to turn out these handsome twin pier cabinets. Above, the outside stiles and the upper rail are being assembled with the jigsawed panels and intermediate rails. At right, a spacer turning is made

     A great deal of time will be saved, both in tracing the patterns and piercing the work on the jig saw, if two pieces are done at the same time. In order to handle the work in this manner, the two pieces that are to be cut are held together with a few 1/2″ brads driven through the stock on the edges that are to be rabbeted. With the brads placed in this manner, the holes left by them will not be seen as the edges of the panels set into the grooves that were cut in the framework of the back. Each section of the back panels that requires piercing should have a small hole bored in it in order that the jig saw blade may be passed through. After completing the piercing, the sawed edges of the panels should be finished with a file and sandpaper.

     The edge of each panel should be rabbeted, as shown in the drawing. These rabbets are 1/4″ wide and 1/16″ deep leaving 3/16″ of stock to fit in the grooves that were cut in the back frame. The rabbets may best be cut on the bench saw, although the spindle shaper may be used with a 1/4″ straight face cutter.

     The various members that go to make up the back should be sandpapered and made ready for assembling. It is optional with the builder as to the type of glue that is to be used when assembling the work. Starting with one of the stiles, the bottom rail is glued to it first, after which the bottom panel is inserted. This is followed by the first narrow rail then continued with the panels and rails until all five panels are in place. If the work has been done properly the top of the last panel should come flush with the top of the tongue on the stile. The second stile is now glued in place to the assembled panels and rails. The last piece to be put in place is the top rail. All excess glue should be cleaned off with a damp cloth. Failure to do this will allow the glue to harden on the wood and make its removal extremely difficult. The work should be clamped and then set aside.

     The shelves are made of 1/2″ stock, 6 3/4″ wide and 8″ long. Near each of the forward corners a 3/8″ hole is located to take the pins on the end of each turning. These holes are placed 6 3/16″ from the back of the shelf and 9/16″ in from the ends. The holes in the top and bottom shelf are bored to a depth of 3/8″ while those in the intermediate shelves are bored through.

     Each base is made of three pieces of stock, the sides being 1/2″ × 3 1/2″ × 6 1/4″ while the front is 1/4″ × 3 1/2″ × 7 3/4″. These members are cut to the shape shown in the drawing. A pattern of them should be laid out on a piece of paper, then traced on the stock. The front piece is fastened to the sides with glue and brads which must be set and filled. The bottom shelf is attached to the base with brads or by the use of screws driven from inside the base at an angle through the sides and into the bottom shelf. This assembled unit is attached to the back with wood screws.

     The top shelf has two ledges as shown in the drawing. The exact size and shape of these pieces may be determined from the graph square drawing of the top rail. The pieces are cut to shape from 3/4″ × 1 1/4″ × 6 1/2″ stock and attached to the shelf with 1″ No. 6 flat head screws.

     The turned columns are made of 1″ square stock, 10 1/2″ long. Ten pieces are required for each cabinet. With the exception of the two bottom turnings, the other eight are made with a 3/8″ pin at one end, 1 1/8″ long. The bottom turnings will require the 1 1/8″ pin at the upper end and also a 3/8″ × 3/8″ pin at the lower end. The top turnings, although made with the long pins, may have these pins cut down to 3/8″ in length later. The lower end of the turnings will require a 3/8″ hole bored in them to a depth of 5/8″ as shown in the detail. When assembling the turnings and shelves, the two lower turnings are glued in place first.

     A deep rich red, which can be obtained with Bismarck brown, either oil or penetrating, will give a good finish. A semi-French polish can be obtained by applying two coats of diluted shellac with a brush and sanding each coat before applying a polish with shellac and oil by the French polish method.

A Breakfast CUPBOARD

Dishes and glassware should be handsomely closeted on the wall of the breakfast nook

WALL cupboards are usually too large for the breakfast nook or the kitchen, but this one is made to order. It will prove to be very practical because of its compact size, and it will be welcome for its decorative value. Simplicity of construction is its main feature, and the effect of leaded glass windows adds an unusual touch that will be well worth the work involved.

     It consists mainly of three frames—two for the sides and one which becomes the door. The material for each of these frames is 3/4″ × 1 3/4″ stock, with the exception of the forward stiles of the side frames which are 2″ wide, cut to the lengths shown in the drawing. A rabbet 1/4″ × 1/2″ is cut on the inside edge of each piece to take the glass. The ends of each member that make up the three frames are cut at an angle of 45 degrees from the miter joint.

     The frames are now ready to assemble with glue and 1 1/2″ brads, in the same manner as a picture frame would be put together. If the builder desires a more permanent and substantial job, these joints may be doweled or splined. If nails are used be sure to set them deeply, especially in the side frames, as the edges of stiles have to be beveled at an angle of 72 degrees. The center shelf is held in place with four short 1/4″ dowels. The holes for these are located and bored in the stiles of the side frames, as shown in the drawing.

     After the frames have been completed two pieces of 3/4″ stock are cut for the top and bottom. These pieces are 9 3/4″ deep and 17″ long in the front, 25″ long in the back and are joined to the two side frames with 1 1/2″ brads.

     The next step is to cut two corner pieces for the front of the cabinet, 24″ long and 2 1/4″ wide, and shape a round edge for decorative purposes, and then join these to your unit. The back panel and shelf come next. The shelf is of 1/2″ stock and is exactly the same shape as the top and bottom. The back is 1/4″ plywood 26 3/4″ × 23″.

     The leaded effect is gained by crisscrossing thin strips of lead behind the glass. If a sheet of lead about 3/32″ thick cannot be obtained at any local plumbing shop, buy a piece of lead conduit pipe which can be split and flattened into a sheet for cutting into strips 1/4″ or 3/8″ wide. The inside edge of the rabbet in the frames must be notched to accommodate these strips and the strips themselves can be fastened with a small wire nail.

     The style of the cupboard dictates a painted finish. Use two coats of flat white with a coat of enamel.

Designed with the utmost simplicity, the glazed frames for the sides are complete sides. No stiles are used except at the front of the cupboard. The leaded window effect is achieved by criss-cross lead strips laid against the inside of the glass

MODERN CHINA Cabinet FOR DINING ROOM

Working plans for an American modern dining room group the craftsman can make at low cost

IT’S TIME for the old oak sideboard to give way to a new and cheerful piece of furniture in the form of an up-to-date china cupboard that has been styled in the modern manner. The cupboard presented here for home workshop construction is distinguished by sliding glass doors in front of the display section and a clever accordion door giving access to the linen compartment in the lower section of the cabinet. The case is supported by an interesting base decorated with parallel vanes which afford the only ornament of the entire cabinet.

     The use of plywood for all parts except the shelves, vanes, handles and legs makes the construction very simple and insures the permanency of the completed piece. Tracks for the sliding glass doors are cut from a strip of ordinary channel brass which is available at most hardware stores. Standard piano hinge serves the cupboard doors, and a wood or metal pin projecting from the upper edge of one door rides in a groove on the underside of the shelf as a means of providing the accordion feature. As the handle is pulled, the left door, guided by the pin, travels across the opening.

Legs and cross-pieces are cut as shown below and the assembled vanes added.

     The construction of the dining room cabinet is started with the lower unit or stand. The stand is made up of four units, the two sets of legs and the two ornamental vanes which also act as stretchers. The legs are made of four pieces of 1 3/4″ square stock, 13″ long. As shown in drawing, detail sketch and photographs the crosspiece is joined to the legs by means of end-slip joints. A groove 5/8″ wide and 1 3/4″ deep is cut in each end of the crosspiece 9/16″ in from each side. A tongue is cut on one end of each leg to fit the groove. The vanes are set in dadoes cut on the inside edge of the legs. These dadoes are 3/4″ wide and 3/4″ deep. The top one is located 3″ from the end of the tongue, while the lower one is located 1 1/4″ below the upper dado. These may be cut on the bench saw, but if such a machine is not available the work may equally well be accomplished by hand using back saw, chisel, and finishing with a hand router.

     The front leg should be glued to the crosspiece and the corner checked for squareness before it is set aside. After the glue has set, the 1 3/4″ radius is scribed on the corner and this line is followed when the unit is being cut to this shape on the jig saw or band saw. It is finished by hand with a file. If a disc sander is available the work can be done on this machine. The same procedure is followed for the other front leg and crosspiece unit, but the back legs are left square on the upper corner because this part of the work will stand against the wall.

     The vanes are made of four pieces of 3/4″ × 3″ stock 36″ long for the front and back members, while the side members are made of four pieces of 3/4″ stock 3″ wide and 13 5/8″ long. The ends are mitered at an angle of 45 degrees, then a groove is cut in the ends 1/4″ × 1/4″ to take a spline. The spline is made of 1/4″ stock, 1/2″ wide and long enough to extend the full length of the miter. The splines are glued in place as in Fig. 3 and the frames are ready to be clamped together. When the glue has set and the clamps have been removed, the gains in the front and back members are located as shown in the detail sketch (A). These gains should fit tightly into the dadoes that have been cut in the legs. The vanes and legs should be sandpapered thoroughly preparatory to assembling the complete bottom unit. As shown in Fig. 4 the vanes are first assembled to the front legs. Glue is used in these joints. The back legs are set in place as in Fig. and last the various members of this unit are now clamped together.

     The case, with the exception of the back, is made of 3/4″ plywood. The sides are made of two pieces 11 7/8″ wide and 39 7/8″ long. A 1/4″ × 5/8″ rabbet is cut along the inside back edge to take the back panel. A rabbet 5/5″ × 5/8″ is cut on the upper inside end to take the top, while a rabbet 5/8″ × 3/4″ is cut on the lower inside edge to take the bottom. A 1/4″ × 3/4″ dado is cut across the inside face for the main shelf. The location of this shelf is shown in the front view in the working drawing. Holes to take the shelf support brackets are located at the points indicated. These holes are 1/4″ in diameter and bored to a depth of 3/8″.

The accordion style of door fitted on the lower cupboard compartment is in two sections. Piano type hinges go at center and at one end, while a pin projecting from door rides in groove, on underside of shelf. Handle is in

     The top and bottom are made of two pieces of stock 11 7/8″ × 35 3/4″. The back edge of each member has a 1/4″ × 1/4″ rabbet cut along it to take the back panel. The upper front edge of the top piece has a 1/8″ × 1/8″ rabbet cut along it. The shelf is made of a piece of stock 11 5/8″ × 35″. This shelf has a 1/4″ × 1/4″ groove cut near the front edge to take the guide pin in the lower door. This is shown in the detail cross section (F).

     The cabinet is assembled by first gluing and fastening the shelf to one side using 2″ brads. The top and bottom are next applied to this same side in like manner. The other side is then set in place. The back is made of 1/4″ plywood from a panel 35 3/4″ × 39″. When cutting this panel to size make certain that it is square. The back is glued and fastened in place with 1″ brads.

     After the case has been completed, it is fastened to the base by driving two 2″ No. 9 flat head wood screws through the bottom of the cabinet and into each crosspiece as shown in the drawing. The doors are made of two pieces of 3/4″ plywood stock 16″ long and 17 3/8″ wide. Care must be taken when squaring and fitting these doors in order to have them work properly. Allow extra clearance so that paint will not cause them to bind. Two piano hinges 1 1/4″ wide and 16″ long are required. The doors are cut to take these.

     As shown in the sketch (F) the free end of the two door units has a 1/4″ pin located 3/8″ from the end. This pin rides in the groove in the underside of the shelf. The right-hand door is hinged to the cabinet side first. The left-hand door has the pin inserted, then is set in position, after which the hinge which connects it to the right-hand door is applied.

     The door pull is made of a piece of 1 1/2″ square stock 16″ long. It is turned down in the lathe to the full diameter. One side is planed flat to produce a surface 1″ wide. This surface is fastened against the door at the point indicated in the sketch, with 1 1/4″ flat head screws.

     The movable shelves are made of two pieces of 3/4″ solid stock 10″ wide and 34 3/8″ long. The front edge is finished off half-round. Two plate grooves are cut in the upper shelf. These grooves are placed 1″ apart and 1″ from the back edge. Before the brass channel in which the glass doors slide is applied the cabinet should be finished. The work should be sandpapered thoroughly and then given a coat of paste filler. This is followed by a coat of shellac. After the shellac is dry, the surfaces should be sandpapered with a No. 00 sandpaper. Two coats of lacquer are applied. The shade of lacquer used will depend on the individual’s choice of color and upon the color scheme of the room where the cabinet is to be located.

     The glass doors slide in brass channels. Four pieces of channel 3/8″ × 3/8″ × 3/8″ are required. The thickness of the metal is .040 which allows slightly more than 1/4″ for the inside dimension of the channel. The channels are cut to fit inside the case and fastened in place with 1/2″ No. 4 flat head screws. Holes for these are drilled and countersunk in the channel. The upper channels are applied first. The glass is set in place, the lower channel slipped under the glass as shown in the photograph, Fig. then the channel is placed in position on the shelf. The glass doors are made of 1/4″ plate glass 18″ × 21 5/8″ with finger grips at each end as shown.

Glass doors are installed in the cabinet by holding bottom strip of channel on glass while putting in place

MODERN Night Table MADE FOR SERVICE

This American modern night table featuring convenient drawer that swings within easy reach of the bed can be built almost entirely from single sheet of plywood

Bedspread, Everwear Candlewick Corp.

NO AMATEUR need hesitate to make a new set of bedroom furniture which has been designed as simply as the night table presented here. Construction is, indeed, simple; yet the table has the tricky feature of pivoting door and drawer.

     Actual work begins on the case. The sides of the case are made of two pieces of 3/4″ plywood one of which is 12″ wide while the other is 11 1/4″ wide. This difference of 3/4″ is taken up by the butting of one piece against the other. The complete unit, when assembled, measures 12″ × 12″. After these pieces have been cut to size and squared, the shelf must be located on the inside face of each member, at a point 5 1/8″ from the edge to leave a space of 4 1/2″ for the drawer.

     The shelf is to be fastened to the sides with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws. Holes for the screws are bored with a 5/32″ bit, and are then counterbored on the outside face with a 1/2″ forstner bit to a depth of 3/8″ as shown in Fig. The holes are counterbored to permit the head of the screw to be covered with a wood plug. The sides are to be fastened to one another as well as to the top and bottom piece in the same manner. Fig. 5 shows the assembling of the two side members using 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws. Wood plugs are cut from a piece of 1/2″ dowel. They should be a little longer than 3/8″. Fig. 6 shows the wood plug being glued into the counterbored hole after the screw has been driven. All wood plugs should project slightly above the face of the wood to permit dressing down flush with the surface after the glue has set.

     The top and bottom of the case is made of 3/4″ stock, 12″ square. A rabbet is cut on two adjacent edges, 5/8″ × 3/4″, as shown in Figs. 1 and The top piece has a pivot hole bored in it with a 6/32″ bit to take the pin on which the drawer swings. The hole should be counterbored on the outside face of the top piece to a depth of 3/8″ with a 1/2″ forstner bit to take a wood plug which will cover the pin. The location of the pivot hole is shown in Fig. It is important that all pivot holes be located and bored with great care if the door and drawer are to swing freely. The bottom also has a pivot hole located as shown in the drawing.

     The base is to be held to the bottom piece with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws. Holes for these are located, bored and countersunk on the inside face as shown in Fig. The holes are placed 1 1/8″ in from the outside edges on the two sides opposite the rabbets, while on the sides where the rabbets are cut, holes are placed 3/8″ in from the rabbet. This will allow the screws to enter the center of the base pieces which are set back 3/4″ from the edges of the bottom. Fig. 7 shows the sides being set in place in the rabbets of the bottom piece. Both the top and bottom members are fastened to the sides with glue and 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws.

     The upper case rests on a recessed base made of four pieces of 3/4″ stock. The two long pieces have rabbets cut at each end, 5/8″ × 3/4″ as shown in the drawing and Fig. This frame is fastened together with glue and 1 3/4″ brads. The brace blocks are glued in each corner and held in place with 1″ brads driven through the block and into the side members. The purpose of the brads is to hold the blocks firmly in place while the glue is given time to set. The frame should be checked with a try-square to make certain that it is true. After the glue has set, the base is fastened to the bottom of the case.

     The shelf is made of a piece of 3/4″ stock, 11 1/4″ square. Fig. 1 shows the location of the two pivot holes, one to take the pin on which the drawer swings while the other takes the pin for the door. The shelf is fastened to the sides with glue and 1 1/2″ No. 8 screws. Plugs cover the screw heads.

PIVOTING DOOR MADE NEXT

     The door is made of two pieces fastened together to form a right angle. One of these pieces is 11″ wide while the other is 10 7/8″ wide. On one edge of the wider piece a 5/8″ × 3/4″ rabbet is cut as shown in Fig. These members are secured with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws. The holes will have to be located and counterbored along the edge of the 10 7/8″ piece. When assembling these two members it may be necessary to fasten a temporary brace diagonally across the ends to keep them square while the glue is given time to set. The members which form the holder for a box of cleansing tissue are cut to size and fastened to the inside face with 1 1/2″ No. 8 screws.

Bill of Materials

     The longer sides of the drawer are rabbeted at each end as shown in Fig. A 1/4″ × 1/4″ groove is cut on the inside face of each piece to take the bottom. Fig. 10 shows the assembly of the drawer. Glue and 1 3/4″ brads are used to fasten it together. The location of the pivot holes in the door and drawer are shown in Figs. 2 and The drawer and door pulls are beveled as shown in the drawing. They are fastened to their respective units with 1 1/4″ No. 10 flat head screws driven through the unit and into the handle. The pivots are short lengths of 10-penny nails. In Fig. 11 they are ready to be driven in place. When fitting the door and drawer in place, make certain that they swing freely. It may be necessary to dress the edges a little to allow for clearance. Thin steel washers should be placed between the shelf and the drawer at the pivot point, as well as between the door and the bottom of the case to prevent these members from marking the finished surface when they are opened and closed.

     It should be noticed that the drawer has been pivoted to swing opposite to the door. The drawer may swing toward the bed; whereas the door must swing away so the night table may be placed close to the bed. The pivots should be moved to opposite corners for use at right side of bed.

     After all screw holes have been plugged, the case may be sanded smooth. This can be done by hand with No. l 1/2 sandpaper, or as in Fig. 8 a portable sander may be enlisted to do the work more quickly.

     The completed table is given a coat of orange shellac and is then rubbed down with No. 0 sandpaper. The end grain as well as all other slits or openings should be filled with some type of filler. Three coats of lacquer, either brushed or sprayed on, will complete the work.

QUAINT Cabinet ENRICHES ANY SETTING

Wall Cabinet Designed After the Informal Style of French Provincial Is Easily Made Despite the Tricky Appearance of Molded Front Panels

The doors of this cabinet are recessed panels while the center is overlaid

THIS wall cabinet is a modified version of an old cabinet which was placed above a dining room buffet to hold condiments, bowls and ornaments appropriate to a dining room. The period design is of modified French Provincial and the stock used in its construction should be of walnut as this type of wood was used extensively throughout this period. Gumwood finished as walnut makes a good substitute.

     The first step in the construction is the laying out and cutting of paper templets for the cabinet sides, and for the front edges of the shelves and the decoration above the back of the shelves. The sides are cut and squared to size and the design is transferred to the wood. The dadoes for the shelves and rabbets for the cabinet back are laid out and cut by hand or on the drill press.

SIDES DADOED FOR SHELVES

     The dadoes for the cabinet bottom and top are cut 1/2″ wide by 3/8″ deep and 8″ across the width starting from the back edge of the side pieces. The lowest cut starts 3 3/4″ up from the bottom of the side pieces and 9 3/4″ above this dado another is cut. The third dado for the top shelf is cut 3/8″ deep and 1/2″ wide 9 7/8″ above the second dado. This last one is 6″ long. The rabbet for the cabinet back is cut 3/8″ × 3/8″ starting at the dado for the lower shelf and extending along the back inside edge 11 1/2″, or 3/4″ above the middle dado. The 1 3/8″ × 3/8″ rabbet for the top shelf back decoration is 1 1/4″ long, starting at the beginning of the dado cut. After these dado and rabbet cuts have been completed, the sides may now be cut to shape on the jig saw or band saw. The shape of this scroll pattern is typical of the period, with a succession of curves flowing together.

     The shelves forming the bottom and top of the enclosed cabinet have mortises cut on the inside faces to take the center panel. These mortises are cut 1/4″ deep by 3/8″ wide by 6 1/2″ long. The front edge of the three shelves may now be shaped.

     The cabinet back is glued up to meet the required width. Above each shelf a strip of scrolled and pierced stock forms a gallery. A full-size pattern for the lower gallery is made by enlargement of the design shown in graph squares and is traced to the back panel so as to extend above the middle shelf 1 3/4″ at the center after the design shown has been cut on the jig saw. The decoration behind the top shelf is cut from the same pattern, from 2 1/4″ wide stock. It also extends above the shelf 1 3/4″ at the center when cut to shape.

     The doors are built up starting with the 1/4″ foundation pieces, which are listed in the bill of materials, with the grain running from the bottom to the top. To lay out the panel for the 5/8″ thick overlay proceed as follows: Draw center lines on the 1/4″ panel with the grain and across the grain; this will divide it into four equal parts. The door pull, or center boss, is located where these lines cross in the center of the panel. Measure in from the edge 1 1/2″ along each line and strike a mark. These marks are joined together with a pencil line. When completed, you will have the shape and location for the diamond overlay.

     The stock required for the overlay is listed in the bill. It will be necessary either to cut the molding by hand, doing as much rough work on the circular saw as possible, or to purchase a blank molding cutter and grind it to the required shape. The latter method is much easier. The molding is cut along one edge of the stock. A template may be made and the necessary pieces for each door may be cut from it. The four pieces are mitered and fastened together with glue and 1/4″ dowels. This arrangement will form a picture frame figure which is then to be glued as a unit to the 1/4″ foundation panel. Small clamps backed by pieces of scrap wood over the face and back of the doors will hold the parts in place until the glue has dried.

     The door pulls are turned on the lathe from a piece of scrap stock. One inch No. 7 flat head wood screws, countersunk through the back of the panel hold the pulls in place. The hinges are of the butt, mortise type, brass finished, 1/2″ wide by 1 1/2″ long and are placed 1″ in from the top and bottom of the door. Cut the mortise deep enough to house completely the hinges in the edge of the doors. Two door stops, each consisting of a piece of scrap stock 1/4″ × 1/4″ × 9 13/16″, are glued to the underside of the middle shelf. Friction catches of the bullet type should be installed to hold the doors and yet leave them easy to open.

Bill of Materials

     The decorations for the center panel of the cabinet are turned on the lathe. This scheme is better artistically than the use of the same design for all three panels. The center boss is turned from stock 1/2″ × 2″ × 2″ and the outside circular molding is cut from stock 3/8″ × 6 3/8″ × 6 3/8″. This outside molding when completed will give you a ring 3/8″ thick at the highest point, 3/4″ wide and an outside diameter of 6 3/8″. Both of these pieces are overlays glued in place.

     Round all jigsawed or bandsawed edges, sand all parts thoroughly, except joints to be glued. Now assemble and glue together. If you find it necessary to use small brads to assist in holding the glued parts it will be necessary to countersink and fill the holes to produce a creditable job.

     The completed project may be either bleached with an oxalic acid solution or stained. Three coats of thin white shellac, rubbed with No. 00 steel wool between each coat, will produce a fine finish when waxed. The hangers for the cabinet may be purchased or cut from brass or sheet metal stock about 18- gauge, or holes may be bored through the back of the cabinet for wood screws to fasten the cabinet to the wall. It is advisable to install fiber plugs in the wall holes so that the screws may be securely anchored.

A tenson on the end of the center upright fits a dado in the lower shelf

The upper gallery is a seperate strip but the lower one is part of back panel

On the center upright between the doors a turned ring and a boss are overlaid

Door overlays are made in one piece, molded on one edge and cut into

These door overlays are mitered at the ends to form a diamond over the panel

The tricky construction of the doors makes an unusually attractive design

Colonial Style

ORNAMENTAL FIREPLACE MADE WITH STORAGE COMPARTMENTS

When you make this pine fireplace you add more than its charm to the room it is meant for. There are three hidden compartments where a card table as well as games and serving accessories may be stored

UTILITY is hardly to be expected from an ornamental fireplace that serves its purpose if it contributes a friendly atmosphere to the room. Yet the one presented here for construction in the home workshop incorporates extra features without losing its attractiveness. There are three hidden compartments for storage. One is a cupboard in the conventional style of a Dutch oven. Another compartment extends the full length of the upper section and is reached by opening two lids on top. The third space holds a card table, tucked away through a door in the side.

Two lids admit access to the top compartment where serving accessories are kept

     Construction is not so difficult as the finished fireplace looks. All moldings are standard styles, purchasable from lumber dealers. The 1 1/4″ paneling may be either plywood or fiberboard depending on which material is available. All other parts are clear white pine.

     The door is made up of two stiles, three rails and two fielded panels. The stiles are made of 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock 33″ long. The bottom rail is a piece of 3/4″ × 4″ stock. The center rail is 3/4″ × 2 1/4″, while the top rail is 3/4″ × 2 1/2″. All three of these rails are 10 1/2″ long. This allows for tenons on each end of the rails, 1″ long. The location of the rails is established on each stile, then the mortises into which the rails are set are located and cut. The tenons on the ends of the rails are cut to fit the mortises. The door frame is glued together and clamps are applied. The panels are made of 3/4″ stock. The lower one is 8 1/2″ wide and 17 1/4″ long, while the upper one is 7″ wide and 8 1/2″ long. It should be noted from these dimensions that the grain of the lower panel is vertical, whereas the grain of the upper panel is horizontal. As shown in the detail cross section of the door, the fielding is 1 1/8″ wide. The thickness of the raised portion is 3/32″ with the panel slanting off to a thickness of 5/16″ at the ends and edges. The cutting of the fielding may be done by hand with a back saw and rabbet plane, or it may be done on the bench saw or jointer. The panel is set into a rabbet which is formed by 1/4″ quarter-round molding nailed against the edges of the door stiles and rails. The molding should be cut to fit inside the frames and should be mitered at butting ends. The molding is placed 1/16″ in from the outside face and fastened with 1″ brads. The panels are set in place and fastened with the same size brads toed from the back. The tenons on the ends of the rails are pinned in the mortises by means of pegs. Holes, 1/4″ in diameter, are bored as shown in the drawing, and square pegs 1/4″ × 1/4″ × 1″ tapered toward one end are driven in the holes and dressed flush with the surfaces.

First photo above shows door frame prepared for panels. Next, front members laid in position; sides added

     The front frame of the case is made up of four units, the horizontal member and three vertical ones. The horizontal piece measures 3/4″ × 13 1/4″ × 60″. This may have to be made of two pieces glued together. The vertical pieces are 3/4″ × 4 3/4″, 3/4″ × 2 3/4″ and 3/4″ × 3. All of these are 34″ long. The vertical members are joined to the horizontal by mortise and tenon joints. The mortises are cut to a depth of 1″ on the lower edge of the top member. Tenons on the ends of the vertical members are cut to fit the mortises. These units are glued together and held by a temporary brace at the lower end to keep them parallel. The work should be checked with a try-square as clamps are tightened.

The various pieces of moldings used singly and in groups, as shown in the cross section below, are stocked by lumber dealers and do not have to be made by the

The first photo below shows the upright firebox frames, while the second shows the frames covered, standing on the floor frames

Firebox sides and facing are now being added to the assembled main structure

     The sides are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock 9 3/4″ wide and 46 1/4″ long. As shown in the plan as well as the sketch there are provisions for the storage of a bridge table in back of the cupboard. This requires the removal of a section of one of the side pieces for a door to the bridge table compartment.

     The front unit is fastened to the two sides with glue and 2″ brads. The member which forms the 3/4″ bottom of the upper compartment measures 7 1/2″ wide and 58 1/2″ long. Cleats made of 3/4″ square stock support the bottom. These cleats are cut and fastened in place with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flat head screws. The bottom is then placed on these cleats and fastened to them with the same size screws. The top tie-piece carrying a 1/4″ × 1/4″ plate groove is cut of 3/4″ stock 3″ wide and 59″ long. This allows for a 1/4″ space at each end to rest on the upper ends of the side members. The piece is fastened in place with brads and glue. A 3/4″ × 2″ × 58 1/2″ cleat is fastened to the underside of this member to furnish a nailing strip for the back panel.

     The sides of the firebox are formed by frames covered with 1/4″ fiberboard. These frames are made of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock. The detail drawing shows the lengths of the various members which go to make up the frames. The members are joined together by means of end-slip joints, which are nothing more than a groove cut in one member and a tongue cut on the end of the adjoining member. After the frames have been glued together the edges of the front, back and slanting members are beveled as shown in the cross sections of the detail drawing. Be careful to lay out and cut the bevels on one frame opposite to those of the other. The floor frames are built up in the same manner of the same size stock. The lengths of the various members of these frames are shown in the plan. After the frames have been glued together a recess 1/4″ × 5 14″ is cut along the front edge to take the firebox facing. The side frames are fastened to the floor frames with glue and 1 3/4″ No. 9 flat head wood screws.

     Fiberboard is cut to cover the side frames and is beveled on front, back and slanting edges to conform with the bevel of the frame. The covering is fastened to the frames with 1″ brads, toed. The two side facings are 1/4″ × 5 1/4″ × 28″. They are fastened to each side frame. These assembled units are set in position in the case, and the floor frames are fastened to the sides and vertical front members of the case with 2″ brads. The top facing on the outside of the firebox is made of 1/4″ fiberboard 6″ wide and 38″ long. The top of the firebox is cut from the same kind of stock and fastened to the top of the side frames. The slanting back is cut to size and fastened in place. The cleats which reinforce the corners where the slanting back and firebox top meet and where the top meets the facing are cut and fastened to the fiberboard with 1″ brads. The two 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ × 4 1/4″ cleats which reinforce the joint where the side facings meet the top facing is fastened to these members in the same manner.

     Two vertical cleats made of 3/4″ × 1 1/2″ stock are fastened to the sides of the case to which the back panel is to be nailed. These cleats are located 2 1/4″ in from the back edge and extend from the floor frame to the bottom of the upper compartment. Short lengths extend from the bottom of the compartment to the top tie-piece.

At right a piece of fiberboard has been cut to shape for the slant back of the firebox and is being

At left, another back view shows that a nailing strip has been added above firebox, along joint of the facing pieces

     The cupboard side of the fireplace is formed by a vertical member made of 3/4″ stock extending from the floor frame to the bottom of the upper compartment. It is fastened in place with 2″ brads. The shelf cleats are cut to size and fastened with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flat head screws. The shelves are fitted in place, fastened or left loose. The cupboard door is trimmed and fitted. The hinges and catch are of the wrought iron type. The hinges are H-L, size 4″ × 3 7/8″. The fireplace back is made of a panel 1/4″ × 46 1/4″ × 58 1/2″. It is fastened in place with 1″ brads.

     The framework for the bridge table storage compartment is shown in the sketch. The bottom member is cut to size and fastened between the sides. The vertical member which also acts as a stop is placed 32″ from the opening. The top member is fastened in place last. The guides are made of 1/4″ stock. A door is made to fit the opening; the hinged edge must be beveled in order that it will not interfere with removal of the table. Two 1 1/2″ brass butts are used to hang the door. A small knob, either brass or wood, is used as a door pull.

     The moldings used throughout the fireplace are standard moldings which can be purchased ready-cut. As shown in the detail drawing, the top molding is made of three members. The top member is 3/4″ × 3 1/2″ apron stock. This is cut to fit around the top, corners mitered. The lower member is a piece of 1/2″ × 1 5/8″ door stop. The crown molding which is placed between these two is 3/4″ × 2 5/8″. All these moldings are fastened in place with glue and brads. The built-up molding which forms the frame around the firebox and cupboard is made up of two pieces of 1/2″ × 1 3/8″ door stop and a piece of 3/4″ × 1 5/8″ astragal molding. The door stop has a portion of the upper face removed as shown in the detail sketch. This stock is cut to the proper lengths, mitered at the corners and fastened in place with 1″ brads. The astragal is then cut and applied over the door stop. The wide panel over the cupboard and firebox is finished off with a frame made of 1/4″ × 1/2″ half-round molding.

This member of the top molding leaves ledge for compartment lid

Frame molding is of three parts. Here the astragal mitered on one end is being fitted over the two bottom members of frame unit

Standard crown molding goes beneath the piece of molding cut of apron stock

     The top compartment has the cover made in two sections. These sections are hinged in place with 2″ brass butts. A small finger recess is cut in the forward edge of each lid to provide a grip. The firebox and facings are given a coat of shellac to size the panels. Over these panels a plastic paint is applied to give this portion the appearance of stone. It comes in powder form for mixing with water. Various textures can be worked out with a brush or sponge. The fireplace is given a coat of stain, then several coats of varnish rubbed down between coats. An artistic effect can be obtained with a paint spray by blackening portions of the firebox to give it the appearance of a smoked surface.

Convenient Built-In Shoe Polish Cabinet

Plaster Wall Near Baseboard Is Cut Out Between Studs to Receive Unit

A GOOD way to keep shoe polish where it won’t get on anything but shoes and yet where it will be instantly ready when needed, is to build an in-the-wall shoe polish cabinet.

     By making the cabinet to fit between the studs in the wall you will find that it is a simple installation problem and that it takes only a little material to build. The top, bottom and sides of the cabinet are just wide enough to fit flush with the plaster when the cabinet is inserted into the opening cut in the wall. Studs are usually 3 1/2″ wide, lath adds another 1/4″ and plaster or plaster-board is 1/2″. This combined thickness allows enough space for a 4″ cabinet which will hold a collection of polish, brushes and applicators.

Photo above shows footrest attached to inside of open door. Slide hinge supports the weight

     The top, bottom and sides should be 3/4″ material and the back 1/4″ plywood. A narrow casing should be nailed to the edges of the two sides and to the top, but since the cabinet rests on the upper edge of the baseboard, no casing is needed here.

     Construction of the cabinet is started by cutting four pieces of 3/4″ × 4″ stock 14″ long for the top, bottom and side members. The top and bottom pieces are fastened to the ends of the side pieces with 1 3/4″ brads. The back panel is cut to size, 1/4″ × 14″ × 15 1/2″. This piece is fastened in place with 1″ brads. The shelf is made of 1/2″ or 3/4″ stock and fastened in place between the sides.

     The casing is made of 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock. The side casing members are cut to a length of 17 1/4″ and are then mitered at one end at an angle of 45°. The head casing is cut to a length of 18 1/4″ and is mitered at both ends. The casing is fastened to the edge of the cabinet so as to provide a setback of 3/8″ around the inner edge of the cabinet sides and across top.

     To install the cabinet, locate the studs in the wall and cut an opening with a compass saw by sawing the lath flush with the studding on each side of the area. Slide the cabinet into the opening and fasten at each side with nails or screws.

     The door should be hinged to the baseboard so as to be flush with the casing when closed. A strong lid support is necessary to support the door when it is in use. Footrests usually can be obtained from craftsman supply houses, or one can be made of wood and attached inside the door. The inside of the cabinet should be finished with enamel or other waterproof finish that can be kept clean. The outside should match the finish of the woodwork. The plaster around the installed box may have to be patched and touched up with paint.

Cabinet is completely assembled and casing is attached before unit is installed between studs

Phonograph

RECORD CABINET

The beauty, good taste and other qualities of costly custom-made modern furniture are embodied in this piece. Its very simplicity gives emphasis to the finely figured wood of the doors. Housewives like it because it’s so easy to dust . . . and it holds a lot of albums

FURNITURE designed in the modern manner can be very handsome indeed, especially if full advantage is taken of the beautifully grained woods that are available. In fact, any craftsman who does not make the most of beautiful grain effects in the wood used on modern design is throwing away one of his most potent design factors—the natural wood figure.

     Pieces designed in the modern manner are easy to keep clean and dust, and this certainly appeals to most housekeepers. And they offer the further advantage of being relatively easy to build and assemble, compared with some of the pieces in the older period styles that are highly ornate.

     Effective as these factors may be in selling the public on modern design, it is probably the simplicity of line and form that appeals most to people who appreciate it.

     The record cabinet shown in the photographs and Figs. and 3 offers all of these desirable characteristics to the craftsman who desires to build it. Furthermore, it is a very useful piece of furniture to have in a home where good music is cherished. Fine recorded music costs enough to be properly cared for and preserved. The cabinet holds many standard-sized albums.

     The cabinet illustrated was built of yellow poplar. It was stained with a transparent stain of burnt umber thinned with turpentine. This was followed with a thin sealing coat of white shellac and two coats of floor varnish. The last coat of varnish was rubbed down with pumice stone and oil.

     The bill of material gives finished sizes of all pieces listed.

     The ends should be glued up and made first. In making them, as in making the other pieces, it is essential that all surfaces be perfectly squared to each other. After all surfaces on the ends have been planed and squared, lay out and cut the rabbets at the bottom and back edges, and the grooves into which the shelf will later be fitted, as shown in Fig. The rabbets at the bottom are 3/8″ × 3/8″ and go clear across the boards. The rabbets at the rear edges are 1/4″ × 3/8″. The 3/8″ × 3/4″ shelf grooves are stopped 1 1/4″ from the front edges of the two ends. Both ends have a corner cut out at the top to receive the rail above the doors.

     Next make the floor, the shelf and the top. After planing and squaring these three pieces, lay out the grooves into which the partitions are to be fitted, as shown in Fig. While the upper partitions go only to the false back shown in Fig. it is easier to cut the grooves clear to the back edges, as must be done for the lower partitions. Doing this makes it easier to assemble the cabinet as will soon be shown. The floor is rabbeted at both ends to make a joint with the rabbets in the ends. It is also rabbeted 3/8″ × 3/4″ along the front edge to form a door stop.

     The partitions should be made next. They are 1/4″ plywood, and the front edges are rounded after being cut out to make removal of the albums easier. When the partitions have been made and tried so they will fit into their respective grooves, the ends, top, floor, shelf and partitions may be assembled. To do this, first glue together the ends, shelf and floor. Square the assembled pieces carefully when clamping them after glue has been applied.

     The rabbet at the rear edge of the top has been stopped 3/8″ from each end of the top as shown in Fig. The top is fastened to the end boards with screws. Bore 3/8″ holes to a depth of 1/4″; then drill 3/16″ holes for the screws. After the top has been fastened with screws, the 3/8″ holes are plugged with wooden dowels, which, after being glued in the holes, are planed off flush.

     Glue is then applied to the grooves, and the partitions are made to slide into their respective grooves from the back of the cabinet. The grooves which have been run to the rear of the cabinet make this method of assembly possible, it being easier to glue in the partitions one at a time after assembling the ends, floor, shelf and top than it would be to try to assemble all of these pieces at the same time.

     Once the partitions have been glued in place, the false back may be made and fastened against the backs of the upper partitions with two 3/4″ strips as shown in Fig.

     Next, make and fasten the plywood back to the cabinet. It may be nailed in place with 1″ No. 18 wire nails.

     The base should now be made and fitted to the cabinet. Plane and square the four pieces. The front and end pieces are 3/8″ wider than the piece at the rear to allow for rabbeting along their upper edges. The cabinet rests on the rabbeted edges of these three pieces, and on the upper edge of the rear rail. The base is joined together at the front with mitered corners nailed with fourpenny finishing nails, and with corner braces screwed to the inside of the frame, as in Fig. The rear rail is merely butted against the end rails and nailed. A 3/4″ × 3/4″ fastening strip is screwed fast here to secure the base to the cabinet as in Fig. Screws through the corner braces fasten the base to the cabinet in front as in Fig.

BILL OF MATERIALS

4 brass or brass-plated butts, 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ leaf; 2 bullet-type friction catches; 1 1/4″ No. 8 wood screws, etc.

All dimensions are in inches

     Make the upper rail and fasten it to the top and end pieces with screws set 1/4″ into counterbored holes, which are afterwards plugged with wooden dowels as was the top. The top of the cabinet is then rounded at the ends and front by planing.

     Make and fit the doors. These are glued up boards having pronounced grain markings. Splines are glued into the upper and lower edges as in Figs. 3 and 5 to strengthen the boards and keep them from warping. A small door stop should be glued inside the rail at the top as shown in Fig. The doors are held in place, when closed, with bullet-type friction catches.

     The making and fastening of the wooden door handles, as shown in Fig. completes the cabinet except for applying the finish.

The partitioned interior is shown at the right

Open Record Rack Has Routed Panels

Grooved Strips Extending Between End Members Provide Most Convenient Means of Holding Discs

THIS RECORD rack holds both 8″ and 10″ records and can be built to hold any desired number by varying the length of the slotted horizontal record supports. When made of any good cabinet wood, it is a pleasing addition to the room and is the most convenient way to keep your records. Only a minimum amount of material is required and some of the most interesting, though simple, shop operations are involved.

     The pattern for the pierced boat design can be made of cardboard or heavy wrapping paper. However, a wood template for the outside Gothic frame is also needed. This template will be used to rout the recess before the boat is jigsawed. It can be seen in Fig The template for the lower carved pattern should also be made of wood, preferably 1/4″ plywood. The inside diamond-shaped pieces are cut first. Next, the design itself is sawed and finally the outside oval. This operation is shown in Fig. All parts of this template will be needed. The edges of all the templates should be sanded smooth, as any roughness or irregularity will show in the routed design.

     Two boards measuring 3/4″ × 8″ × 28″ will make the end members if short pieces 3/4″ × 3″ × 7″ are glued on to make the necessary width for the feet as shown in Fig. The outline shape is laid out on one of the ends and both members may be bandsawed at the same time by fastening them together with 1 1/4″ brads driven in waste stock. The pieces are taken apart after this operation.

     The router carving is next in order. Both of the wood templates are bradded to the back of the work. Brad holes will be concealed with paste filler used later. Fig. 3 shows how the entire template for the bottom design is placed on the work while locating the center design. After both templates are tacked down the waste piece is lifted out as shown in Fig. The actual routing is shown in Fig. If a router is not available satisfactory routing can be done on the drill press, although a speed of 8000 r.p.m. is necessary for smooth work. A 1/4″ straight shank cutter will do the work. If you have a router carving bit it may, of course, be used and is to be preferred since it slightly rounds the edges of the work.

These two designs must be enlarged on graph squares. If wrapping paper is used, patterns can be cut out and transferred onto wood templates

     For satisfactory template routing on the drill press it is necessary to make a small auxiliary table which consists of a flat board approximately 14″ × 14″ with countersunk bolts and wing nuts for attachment to the drill press table. In the middle of this table a guide pin must be placed so as to project above the table slightly less than the thickness of the templates being used. Regardless of whether router or drill press is used, this guide pin must be the same size as the bit to be used and must be located directly beneath the center of the bit; otherwise the design will not be properly located on the work.

     The stock to be routed is placed, template down, over the guide pin. The depth stop on the machine is adjusted for the desired depth of cut, 1/8″ or 3/16″. It is best to rout the outline of the design first, letting the guide pin follow the template. Remaining stock is cut away by moving the work back and forth under the bit. The template will keep you from cutting into the design. To reach the interior areas of the diamond raise the cutting bit and place another template opening over the guide pin. Lower the bit and proceed to rout. Naturally the machine should be locked against the depth stop while any cuts are being made. Throughout the entire cutting operation the work must be held snugly to the table; otherwise the bottom of the recesses will not be smooth. The top recess for the boat design is done in the same manner.

Fig. 1. Waste is kept to a minimum if small wood blocks for the splayed feet are glued up with the main piece of stock which makes up each of the two end members

Fig. 2. From thin plywood a template of the lower design is cut on the jig saw and will serve as a routing guide

Fig. 3. On the reverse side of one end unit the two wood templates are tacked. They will be reused on other end

Fig. 4. Oval piece surrounding the diamond template was not tacked to board but was used merely to establish location of diamond template and is now being removed

Fig. 5. A dowel pin projecting from an auxiliary table of the router extends into the template openings so as to restrict movement of the work which is being routed

Fig. 6. In the routed Gothic area a cardboard pattern of the sailing ship is traced for guidance on jig saw

Fig. 7. Finishing of the curved inside edges of the end member is done with a drum sander set up in drill press

Fig. 8. Mortises for the tenoned ends of record supports are cut with hollow mortising chisel set-up or by hand

     After the work has been routed the boat design is traced from the pattern as shown in Fig. and the design is then jigsawed. Inside curves of the feet are now sanded. Cutting of the six mortises in each of the end pieces to receive the tenons of the record supports will complete the ends. Mortises can be cut with the hollow chisel on the drill press as in Fig. or they may be cut by hand with bit and chisel. Mortises are located so that the bottom of the slots in the record supports are on an arc with a 5″ radius for the top row and a 6″ arc for the bottom row. These mortises should be 1/2″ deep.

     The record supports are 7/8″ 1 1/4″ × 16 1/2″. Six are needed. They have 1/2″ tenons on each end and have 1/8″ × 1/4″ slots cut 1/2″ apart. Much time can be saved and the matching of slots insured if the slots are cut across an 8″ board before this piece is ripped into the required six pieces. The above dimensions will produce a record rack for approximately 48 records. By increasing the length of the record supports it can be made for a larger collection. Each 5/8″ added to the length will accommodate two more records.

APPLYING A

     Good finishing is as important as good construction. The first requisite of a good finish is a well-sanded surface. The slightest roughness or nick, hardly visible on unfinished wood, will show badly when finish is applied. Work should be well dusted before stain is used. A wash coat of shellac should be applied when the stain is thoroughly dry.

     Paste filler is next applied. A walnut colored paste filler is satisfactory for both mahogany and walnut. About 3 pounds of filler to 1 quart of solvent is correct for mahogany, while a slightly thinner filler can be used on walnut. Application of the filler should be done with a fairly stiff brush, brushing with the grain. It can be cross brushed if desired, the idea being to pack the filler into the pores of the wood. When the filler begins to lose its wet appearance the surplus filler should be cleaned off by wiping across the grain with burlap. Finish the wiping with a clean rag, stroking with the grain. Filler should dry twelve hours or longer before any other finish is applied. The work should be lightly sanded and dusted when the filler is thoroughly dry.

     A wash coat of shellac reduced with alcohol 4 to 1 makes a good sealer for the filler. When dry it should be sanded with No. 6/0 paper, after which the work is ready for finishing coats of varnish or lacquer. Two or more finish coats are required. Finish coats, when dry, should be rubbed with pumice stone and oil or water. If a high gloss finish is desired, the pumice stone treatment is followed by a polishing with rottenstone and oil.

Built-In Wall cabinet Conceals Home Fire Extinguisher

ARCHITECTS and fire protection authorities are recommending a new feature in home appointments: a cabinet for the household fire extinguisher. A cabinet of this type brings the extinguisher out of its hideaway and into a place of accessibility.

     The size to build depends on the size of your extinguisher. The two most commonly used types in homes are the Underwriters’ approved one-quart pump gun and 2 1/2 gallon turn-over units.

     For the one-quart extinguisher, can of refill fluid and funnel, the inside measurements of the cabinet should be 15 1/2″ in height, 10″ in width and 4″ in depth. For a 2 1/2 gallon extinguisher and refill materials, the cabinet should measure, inside, 26 1/2″ high, 13″ wide and 8″ deep.

     These cabinets may be built and installed in the wall between studs if sufficient depth is available. In most cases, the one-quart size which is 4 1/4″ deep can be installed in the wall. The 2 1/2 gallon extinguisher cabinet which has an overall depth of 9″ will be only partly enclosed in the wall. The cabinet for the small extinguisher as shown in the sketch will require two pieces of 3/4″ × 4″ stock 15 1/2″ long for the sides and two pieces 3/4″ × 4″ × 11 1/2″ for the top and bottom. These pieces are fastened together with 2″ No. 9 flathead screws. A back panel 11 1/2″ × 17″ made of 1/4″ plywood is fastened to the cabinet member with 1 1/4″ brads. A vertical partition and shelf is made of 1/2″ × 3 1/4″ stock. The partition is 15 1/2″ long and the shelf should be 5″ in length. After the shelf has been fastened to the partition, these assembled members are placed in position in the cabinet and fastened in place with 1 3/4″ No. 7 flathead screws. As shown a nailing strip is added for the lath.

     To receive the cabinet, an opening 11 1/2″ × 17″ will have to be cut through the lath and plaster. This opening should be laid out so that the left side will be flush with a stud as shown in the sketch. When the opening has been prepared, the cabinet is slipped into place and secured to the lefthand stud by driving 2″ No. 9 flathead screws through the cabinet side and into the stud. Any space between the plaster and the edge of the cabinet should be closed with patching plaster. The door is made, of 3/4″ plywood, 10″ × 15 1/2″. A handle is prepared and secured to the door before the door is attached to the cabinet with two hinges. A friction catch may be used to keep the door closed.

     The 2 1/2 gallon extinguisher cabinet will require two pieces of 3/4″ × 8 3/4″ × 14 1/2″ for the top and bottom, and two pieces 3/4″ × 8 3/4″ × 26 1/2″ for the sides. The back is made of 1/4″ plywood, 14 1/2″ × 28″. The door will require a piece of 3/4″ plywood, 13″ × 26 1/2″. The partition is made of 1/2″ × 8″ stock 26 1/2″ long and the shelf will require a piece of 1/2″ × 8″ stock 3 3/4″ long.

ALL-PURPOSE MODERN STYLE CUPBOARD

This Cupboard Design Gives the Craftsman a Chance To Build a Fine Piece of Furniture That Combines A Variety of Handy Open and Closed Compartments

HERE IS a cupboard that has all the attributes of several different kinds of furniture. It combines the display value of a pier cabinet with the utility of a closed cupboard and for good measure provides open shelf space for the accommodation of books. Its practical features make it adaptable to living room, dining room or breakfast nook.

     The doors are made of plywood faced with an attractive veneer. Here the builder has a choice of walnut, mahogany and two or three other hardwoods. The rest of the cupboard may be built of a less expensive wood which can be stained to match the veneer.

     Construction is started with the top and bottom members. Two pieces of 3/4″ stock 12″ wide and 54″ long will be required for these members. Rabbets are cut along each end of the bottom member to take the sides. These rabbets as shown in Figs. 2 and 4 are 3/8″ × 3/4″. Fig. 2 is an underneath view of the bottom panel. Dadoes are cut across the face of both members to take the vertical partition members. The dadoes are located 15″ from each end and are 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep. They are cut on the same face as the rabbets which are to take the side members as shown in Figs. 2 and A 3/8″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut along the back edge of the bottom member as shown in Fig. while along the back of the top member a rabbet of the same size is cut to within 3″ of each end as shown in Fig. The front edge of the top member is cut to the shape shown in the plan, while the bottom member has the front edge cut to the shape shown in Fig. The shaping of these members can be done on the band saw or jig saw.

     The next members to be made up are the sides for the lower compartments. Two pieces 3/4″ × 10″ × 29 1/4″ will be required. The back edges of these pieces are rabbeted to take the back panel. The rabbet measures 3/8″ × 3/8″ as shown in Figs. 2 and The shelves which are to be placed in the side cabinets are not to be fastened. Instead, they are held in place by means of shelf supports shown in the drawing. This arrangement makes the shelves adjustable. Holes to take the pins of the shelf supports are to be located and bored on the inside face of the side members. Brackets should be obtained before the holes are bored. Substitute dowel pins if necessary.

PREPARE

     The center partitions are made of two pieces of stock 3/4″ × 10 7/8″ × 71 5/8″ On the outer face three dadoes are cut for the upper outside shelves, while on the inner face three dadoes are cut for the lower center shelves as shown in Fig. The locations of these dadoes are shown in the elevation drawing. The three dadoes that are to take the outer shelves extend from the back edge to within 1 1/4″ of the front edge as shown in Fig. The dadoes for the inner shelves extend the full width of the stock. Each dado measures 3/4″ wide and is cut to a depth of 1/4″. The holes in the outer face of the partitions, to take the shelf supports, should be located so that they will match those already bored in the side members. The holes for the shelf supports in the center cabinet should be located as shown in Fig. The lower end of the partition members is cut as shown in Fig.

     The lower shelves of the center compartment are made of two pieces of stock 3/4″ × 10 7/8″ × 23″ while the shelf which forms the top of the open center compartment and the bottom of the closed center cabinet is made of a piece of stock 3/4″ × 11 5/8″ × 23″. This piece is notched at the front corners to fit around the stiles as shown in Fig. the notch being cut 3/4″ in from the front edge and 1/2″ from each end. The top members of the side cabinets are made of two pieces of wood 3/4″ × 10″ × 15 1/4. These pieces have a 3/8″ × 3/4″ rabbet cut along the end as shown in Fig. 4 to take the side member. The back edge is cut as shown in Fig. 5 to take the back panels.

     The various members which have been prepared up to this point can now be assembled. The center compartment shelves are glued in the dadoes of the center partition. The top and bottom members are set in place on the center partition members. The work must be checked with a try square to make certain all corners are square. The top members of the side cabinets and the side members next are glued, set in place and put in clamps.

     The back panels are made up in six units. Three lower panels made of 1/4″ plywood are needed. Two of these should be 15″ wide and 29 1/4″ long and the third one should measure 23 1/4″ wide and 29 1/4″ long. The upper side panels are made of two pieces of 3/8″ plywood 12 3/8″ wide and 41 3/4″ long while the upper center panel is made of 1/4″ plywood 23 1/4″ wide and 41 3/4″ long. These panels are fastened in place with glue and 1 1/4″ brads.

     The shelves in the upper side units are glued in place at this time and are fastened to the back panel by driving brads through the panel and into the back edges of the shelves. The lower cabinets require shelves of 3/4″ stock finished to 8″ width and 14 1/4″ length. Four such shelves will be needed. The upper cabinet has two shelves 10 7/8″ wide and 22 1/2″ long. These shelves are to be set in place on the shelf supports.

     Filler strips made of 1/4″ × 2″ stock are cut and fastened to the underside of the bottom as shown in Fig. The addition of these pieces on which the cabinet rests will increase the width of the visible edge of the bottom panel up to 1″ so as to match the width of the stiles. The front edges of the top, bottom and shelf members as well as the front edges of the side members and the face of the stiles should be covered with veneer strips.

     The doors are made of 3/4″ veneered stock fitted to the openings. They are hung with 2 1/2″ brass butts. The door handles are made of 3/4″ × 3/4″ stock 3″ long shaped as shown in Fig. 3 and fastened to the doors with 1 1/4″ No. 6 flathead screws. Door stops are fastened to the side of the lower cabinets as shown in Fig.

     The completed cabinet is given a coat of stain and is then finished with three coats of shellac, clear lacquer or varnish. Each coat is rubbed down with No. 00 steel wool. If shellac is used the cabinet should be waxed.

Children’s Phono and Record Cabinet

MANY a youngster received a small electric phonograph for Christmas. If this is the case in your home it will not be very long before some provision must be made to store the records as well as to supply a table of suitable height so that the child can use the machine. The cabinet pictured in this article was built for this purpose. The lower compartment provides for both 6″ and 10″ records, the two popular sizes. The cabinet may be made of white pine, birch or maple if it is to be given a natural finish; or plywood can be used for all paneling if an enamel finish is desired.

     Construction is started by making the two side panels. These are 1/2″ × 11 1/4″ × 27 1/2″. A 1/4″ × 1/4″ rabbet is cut along the back edge to take the plywood back. The locations of the bottom, the center rail which divides the phonograph from the record compartments and the two top rails to which the top is fastened must be established on both side members. These parts are to be fastened together with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head wood screws. Holes are bored with a bit and counterbored with a 3/8″ bit to a depth of 1/4″ to take wood plugs which will conceal the screws. The bottom is made of 1/2″ stock, 11″ wide and 19 7/8″ long. The location of the vertical partitions are marked on the face of this piece. Holes are bored for 1 1/4″ No. 7 flat head screws which fasten the partitions to the bottom. The center and two top rails are 1/2″ × 3″ × 19 7/8″ each. The center and front top rails have the front corners notched 1/2″ × 1/2″ to allow for the front stiles. The rails and bottom are fastened to the sides to form the case shown in Fig.

     The stiles and lower rail are made of 1/2″ × 1″ stock. The stiles, measuring 27 1/2″ long, are fastened in place with 1 1/2″ No. 15 brads. See Fig. The bottom rail is fastened to the bottom in the same manner. Each guide for the sliding shelf on which the phonograph rests is made up of two pieces of stock. One measures 3/4″ × 1 1/8″ × 11″ while the other is 5/8″ × 1 1/8″ × 11″. Along the edge of the first piece a 3/8″ × 1/2″ rabbet is cut as shown in the front view. The two pieces are fastened together with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flat head screws. After the guides have been assembled they are fastened to the sides as in Fig. with 1″ No. 8 flat head screws. The screws are placed in countersunk holes in the grooves so that the heads will not interfere with the sliding shelf.

     The vertical partitions of the record compartment shown in Fig. 4 are made of three pieces of stock, 3/8″ × 11″ × 16 3/4″. The upper end at the forward corner of each piece is notched to fit around the center rail. This cut should be 1/2″ × 2 1/2″. The shelves are set into dadoes cut in the vertical partitions. These dadoes are located and cut on the bench saw equipped with a dado head. The dadoes in the two outside partitions are 3/16″ deep, but those in the center partition can be only 1/8″ deep. The compartment for small records should be only 7 1/2″ deep. A back to this compartment is necessary. Grooves are cut in the side members of this compartment to take the 1/4″ back. The two side partitions are installed after insertion of a 1/8″ × 1/2″ spacer between the cabinet and the partition as shown in the cross section. A curved setback is cut in the front of each shelf. The back of the small record compartment is set in place with the shelf guide removed. See Fig.

     The sliding shelf is 1/2″ × 11″ × 18 3/8″ with a 3/8″ × 2″ × 1 1/2″ stop block fastened to the back edge as in Fig. Two handles the same size as shown on the drop front are made and fastened near the forward edge of the sliding shelf. The shelf is inserted in the guides from the back. Filler blocks, 1/2″ × 1 1/2″ × 7 5/8″, are fastened in the phonograph compartment at each side, against the stiles, to take the drop front supports. The top is made of 1/2″ stock, 11 1/2″ wide and 20 5/8″ long. The edge is molded as shown. Two cleats, 1/2″ × 1/2″, are fastened to the sides between the front and back top rails. Screws, 3/4″ long, are driven through the rails and cleats into the top as in Fig. The back is made of 1/4″ plywood.

     The drop front and two lower doors are cut to fit, then hinged in place with 1″ brass butts. Handles are fastened to the doors with screws. Bullet catches are installed at the ends of both doors and drop front. The feet are made of 1/2″ × 2 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ stock. Two of these pieces are mitered and fastened together to form each foot. See Fig. A hole must be bored in the back of the cabinet to pass the electric wire for the phonograph.

     If the cabinet is finished natural or with stain, several coats of clear varnish or lacquer should be applied. Use decals for decoration.

Modern Chest Has Family-Size Capacity

This Large Chest Providing Both Cupboard and Drawer Storage Is Easily Built from Plywood Panels And Serves Any Room in the House

THE craftsman in search of a chest having fairly large storage capacity will find that the one shown in the photographs and drawings meets these requisites and yet is reasonably easy to build. It is of flexible design, the lower part being usable for almost any type of storage. It has two sections for drawer space and one cupboard compartment with a shelf.

     Plywood can be used for all main members of the chest at a considerable saving of time and labor. Door and drawer pulls as well as guides and runnen should be made of solid stock. The feet are made of standard 2 × 4 which, when purchased dressed, actually measures 1 3/4″ × 3 3/4″.

BILL OF MATERIALS

     The first step in construction of the chest involves laying out and cutting each member to the size listed in the bill of materials. As soon as each piece is laid out, the key letter should be marked on it for future identification. Reference to the bill of materials will show two sizes for lower drawer members. The reason for two sizes can be seen by examination of Fig. The two lower drawers are to fit into a space 5 1/2″ high, while the four other drawers occupy spaces 8″ high. When these drawer members are cut, the different widths should be separated.

     The parts comprising the case—the two side members (C), the top member (A) and the bottom member (B)—are to have 1/4″ × 1/4″ rabbets cut along the rear edge to take the back panel (K). The top and bottommemhers are to have 1/4″ × 1/2″ rabbets cut along each end to receive the sides.

     When the sides are ready, they are glued to the bottom member and further secured with 6-penny finishing nails which are set below the surface of the wood. Next, the top is applied to the side members.

     Shelf (D) and partition (G) as shown in Fig. 2 are the next members to be assembled to the case. The locations of these pieces should be established on the inside faces of the side and top members. Nails secure the pieces to the case. One of the partitions (H) which separates the drawer units from the end cupboard compartment is the next member to be installed. Shelf (F) is fastened in this compartment with finishing nails.

     The drawer compartments are formed by shelves (E) and the second partition (H). Fig. 1 shows how these members are cut and fitted together for installation in the case.

     The two lower drawers may now be constructed and installed. The fronts are 1/2″ plywood; sides, back and bottom are 1/4″ plywood. As shown in Fig. 6 the sides and back are not rabbeted for the bottom, but the front is rabbeted in the conventional way. Any convenient radius will do for the hand space in the drawer fronts. Completed drawer members are assembled with glue and brads.

     Runners can now be applied to the drawers, and the guides can be attached to the cabinet as shown in Figs. 6 and The two upper drawers, which consist of pieces (DA), (DB), (DC) and (DE) as shown in Fig. are assembled with glue and brads.

     The outer drawer front (DF) is to be fastened to the inner drawer front (DA) with glue and brads. Before the piece is applied, Fig. 8 should be examined to determine its exact position. The drawer front on right-hand drawer overhangs the right side member of the drawer by 1 3/8″, while at the left-hand side of the drawer the overhang is only 1 1/8″ The left-hand drawer has the overhang reversed.

     After the two outside doors have been fitted, they are attached with 18″ lengths of piano hinge. The center door will require the use of offset chest hinges as shown in Fig. The edge of the door has dadoes for these hinges.

     The knobs and drawer pulls are beveled all around as shown in Fig. They are attached with wood screws driven from the inside of the door. Nail holes must be filled and sanded before any finish is applied. The case of the original was finished with stain and clear varnish. The knobs and pulls were painted green to match a wall in the bedroom. Paint or enamel used over the entire chest would be just as satisfactory.

In combination with a circular mirror the modern chest serves ideally as a clothes chest and vanity in bedroom

CEDARWOOD Chest WITH DRAWERS IS EASY TO BUILD

This Upright Drawer-Type Cedar Chest Introduces a New and Compact Unit for Keeping Stored Woolens Easily Accessible in Each Bedroom and for Protecting Knitter’s Surplus Yarn

THIS small bureau made of aromatic red cedar was especially designed to protect knitted garments and yarn during summer months. Unlike the conventional cedar chest, it occupies very little floor space and the drawers provide easy access to all contents. Three small drawers are partitioned to hold yarn or other knitting materials. Two large drawers provide storage space for sweaters or blankets which are occasionally used during the summer.

     The entire bureau is made of aromatic red cedar with the exception of the plywood drawer bottoms and the cabinet back. Approximately 35 board feet of cedar 1″ thick in the rough will be required, as there is considerable waste in cutting the lumber to have clear material, free of knots, at the edges of the cabinet and drawers. The cabinet is all made of 7/8″ material with the exception of the drawer backs and sides which are 1/2″ and the partitions in the drawers which are 1/4″ The thin material is obtained by resawing the standard 1″ lumber.

     Stock for the 14-inch sides is joined, and the 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbets which receive the back of the cabinet are cut. Cut the side pieces to length by first cutting the 45-degree miter and then cutting off the bottom to the exact dimension. The top measures 14″ × 18″ and is mitered at each end to fit the sides.

     The next operation is cutting the 3/8″ × 3/4″ dadoes in the sides to receive the drawer runners and rails. The grooves extend from the back to 1/4″ of the front edge of the cabinet. They are cut on the circular saw by using a 3/4″ dado cutter set to 3/8″ depth. The front corner of the groove is squared with a chisel to receive the tenoned front rails.

     Drawer runners, rails, and the front apron are next prepared. Back rails have a full tenon, while front ones are notched. The front apron, which does not require tenons, is held by glue and finishing nails.

Trial assembly view at left shows front rails in one of the sides, while runners are fitted in photo below, and the mitered top is being tried in the view at right

     When the rails have been installed and the glue has dried, put the drawer runners in place. They should be glued only for 3″ at the front of the groove and are held in place by nail also near the front. This construction retards damage from warp.

     The top can now be fastened permanently in place. The mitered joint is glued and then reinforced with finishing nails set below the surface.

     Drawings and a photograph illustrate the drawer construction. The fronts are 7/8″, the sides 1/2″, and the partitions 1/4″. Three drawer fronts 7/8″ × 4″ × 16 1/4″ are required and two 7/8″ 9 1/2″ × l6 1/4″. The fronts are rabbeted on the ends to receive the sides. Side and back members are cut next. Grooves are cut 1/4″ × 1/4″ in the front and sides for the drawer bottom. The last operation is cutting the grooves to hold the partitions. The top drawer is partitioned from side to side, and the two other small drawers and one of the large drawers are partitioned from back to front.

     The last parts to be cut are the drawer bottoms, the cabinet back, and the dust stop which is placed underneath the bottom rails and drawer runners. These parts are made of 1/4″ plywood.

     The drawer members are glued together and held in place with clamps. A few small finishing nails are driven through the side into the drawer front.

     The back of the cabinet can now be put in place with glue and 3/4″ brads. Two turned, wooden knobs are added to each drawer. The entire cabinet should be sanded and the outside sponged with a damp cloth to raise the grain. The surface is again smoothed with fine sandpaper. Three coats of shellac are applied to the outside, without the use of stain. Under no condition should the interior be finished.

Assembled view at left shows stop blocks for drawers on front rails. The parts of a drawer are shown below, and at right the drawers ar being fitted to the cabinet

HANDY CABINET HOLDS PHOTO DARKROOM ITEMS

Any handyman can build this supply cabinet for storing his photo developing and enlarging equipment

AMATEUR photographers who do their own developing at home without having a special darkroom for the purpose will welcome a commodious cabinet for the safe storage of printing paper, chemicals and other supplies. Whether the improvised darkroom is nestled between wash tubs in a basement laundry room or cornered in an upstairs bedroom, a cabinet is essential for convenience. Even the special darkroom can make good use of the versatile cabinet presented here for construction. Provision has been made for an enlarger to be housed in the upper compartment and used on a work-surface formed by a drop front. Sliding doors on the other compartments eliminate the hazard of swinging doors on a cabinet that is used in the dark.

     The sides are started first and are made of two pieces of stock, 3/4″ × 11 1/2″ × 76″. As shown in the detail, there are 1/4″ × 1/4″ dadoes cut on the inside face near the upper and lower ends to take the cabinet top and the bottom shelf. The exact location of these dadoes can be determined from the elevation drawing. There is a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet required on the rear edge of each side piece to take the back panel. When these dadoes and rabbets have been cut, the location of the main shelf, or table top, must be established. The top rail as well as the rail directly below the table top should also be located on these side pieces. These members, the two rails and table top, are to be fastened to the sides with 2″ No. 9 flat head screws. The holes for the screws should be bored in the side members and should be counterbored on the outside face to a depth of 3/8″ to take a 3/8″ wood plug. These plugs are inserted to cover the screw heads after the members have been assembled.

It is advisable to anchor this shallow cabinet to the wall by fastening a couple of wood strips over wall studs to receive screws through back panel

     As may be seen in photograph, sketch and drawing, the left hand side of the cabinet, in which the enlarger is placed, opens to permit this piece of equipment to swing around beyond the cabinet. This arrangement will require the removal of a section of the side member. This section should be laid out and then cut with a keyhole saw. It will be almost impossible to remove this piece in. such a manner as to use it in making the door assembly; therefore it will be necessary to cut a new one to fit in the space. This piece should be 3/4″ × 5 3/4″ × 36″.

     The cabinet top and the bottom shelf are identical in size. The ends of these members are rabbeted to produce 1/4″ × 1/4″ tongues to fit the dadoes in the sides. The back edges are rabbeted to take the back panels. These members may now be assembled to form the outside of the cabinet. A good glue will be needed as this is the only means of holding these members together. The back should be cut to size and fastened in place as soon as possible in order to keep the cabinet square and make it rigid. The back is fastened to the sides, top and bottom shelf with 1″ brads.

WORKING SURFACE PROVIDED

     The table top is cut to size and a groove is made near the forward edge as shown in the drawing to take the tongue of the rail which is located directly below the table top. The table top is fastened in place and work on the rail is undertaken. This rail is cut to the proper size and rabbeted to produce the tongue which fits into the table top. Gains are cut in this rail, as shown in the drawings, to take the sliding arms which support the drop front. These gains are 3/4″ × 2″. The rail is fastened in place with glue and screws. The top rail is made up and fastened to the sides with 2″ No. 9 flat head screws and to top with 1 3/4″ brads.

     The upper section of the cabinet is divided by a vertical partition measuring 3/4″ × 11 1/4″ × 27 3/4″. The forward edge is rabbeted 3/8″ × 3/4″ to take the door of the compartment which houses the enlarger. This piece must be fitted around the top rail; therefore a notch will have to be made in the forward edge, 3 1/4″ long. The location of the partition and compartment bottom must be established on the cabinet top and the side, and holes must be bored to take the 2″ No. 9 screws with which these members are fastened together and in place. The holes should be counterbored on the outside faces to take plugs.

     The door which covers the compartment which houses the enlarger is made as shown in the sketch. The two pieces are glued and screwed together and a triangular corner block is bradded to the inside for reinforcement.

     The drop front is hinged with a piano hinge so that it rests flush with the shelf when open. In order to include this feature, the drop front must be lapped over the outside instead of being set flush. In the front rail beneath this drop, two slides are placed to support the drop front when it is open. When pushed back, these slides do not detract from the appearance.

     Standard hardware fittings for the sliding doors can be installed if desired, but a home-made arrangement will serve very well and cost nothing. The simple wood tracks and grooved doors, fitted loosely, are not hard to make. A little paraffin wax should be rubbed on the runners occasionally to reduce friction. Door handles are a simple matter. Plain 3/4″ × 3/4″ strips are rounded on the ends and nailed and glued in place.

     A cabinet of these proportions cannot safely be made portable by means of casters. In fact it is advisable to anchor the back panel to batten strips which have been screwed to wall studs located behind the plaster.

Wall Rack for Sewing Room Holds Spools of Thread in Plain View

WELCOME to every sewing room is this commodious rack to hold a great many spools of thread as well as several pairs of scissors. All sewing machines make some provisions for the storage of thread but the allotted space is inadequate. Provisions may also be made to hang a pin cushion.

     The rack is made of 3/4″ stock. Two pieces are required for the ends, 2″ wide and 9 3/4″ long. On the inside faces of these pieces dadoes are cut at an angle of 50 degrees, 3/4″ wide and 1/4″ deep to take the shelves. The upper and lower ends have the corners chamfered for decorative purposes only. The two shelves are made of 3/4″ stock, 2 3/4″ wide and 27 1/4″ long. This length may be altered to suit the requirements. The back edge is beveled to come flush against the wall. The holes for 1/4″ × 2″ dowels are located 2″ from the end and thereafter spaced 1 3/4″ apart. They are all placed 1″ in from the outer edge and are bored to a depth of 1/2″.

     The shelves are fastened to the end pieces with 1 1/4″ No. 7 round head screws. Cup hooks are inserted along the underside of the lower shelf to take accessories. Small strips of brass are cut and fastened to the side pieces for mounting the shelf to the wall.

Built-in Colonial

CORNER

Ordinary nailed construction, without a single doweled or mortised-and-tenoned joint, brings this fine-looking china cabinet within the range of even a beginner’s ambition. The accompanying instructions are numbered to correspond to the series of step-by-step photographs

A little knowledge of plain hammer-and-saw carpentry is all you need to construct this

1 Locate the forward edge of the shelves on the adjacent walls by means of a chalk line. As shown in the plan, Fig. this is a point 24 1/4″ from the corner, measured at a point 7 ft. above the floor. A plumb line is dropped from here to the baseboard to locate lower point of the chalk line

2 In the corner, mark location of upper edge of each cleat as indicated in section A-A, Fig. Draw lines on adjacent walls by using a level. The location of the studs, which is usually 16″ from the corner, must also be established and marked

3 After cutting the cleats to the sizes given in Fig. nail the longer cleats with eightpenny nails driven into the wall studs. Then fasten all the shorter cleats to the adjacent wall

4 Cut shelves a little larger than in Fig. using plywood or two pieces of solid stock glued together. Fit them to the wall at their respective locations by scribing to allow for any variations in the wall. Plane forward edges back to chalk lines

5 Fasten shelves to cleats with sixpenny finishing nails, toed slightly to avoid danger of striking the wall when driving them. Finish driving with a nail set to prevent hammer marks

6 Cut stiles to size given in Fig. The edge of each that butts against wall is beveled at 45°. Mark the stile to fit around baseboard by scribing, then cut out the shape on jig saw

7 Prepare full-size pattern, trace on stiles, and cut on jig saw or with compass or keyhole saw. Dress edges with file and sandpaper. Fasten stiles to shelves with eightpenny nails

8 Draw a pattern for the top rail, Fig. and trace on a piece of stock a little longer than the space between the stiles. Cut out on jig saw and finish with file and sandpaper

15 The top rail is fitted between the stiles by trimming each end. It is then fastened securely by driving several eightpenny nails through it into the forward edge of the top shelf

16 A piece of 3/4″ square stock is cut to length and fitted between the stiles at second shelf from bottom to extend this shelf flush with door front. Nail it to the shelf

17 The door is assembled in the simplest possible way as shown in Fig. The stiles and rails are fastened to the plywood panel with glue and brads. Each cross member is cut and fitted inside the frame, then fastened in exactly the same way

18 A small molding, which should be no higher than 5/16″, is used to finish the door. Each piece of molding is cut and mitered to fit in place. The use of the T-bevel will aid considerably in laying out the angles. Fit the door in its opening

19 The hardware may now be applied. Black hinges and catch of Colonial design are decorative and appropriate. Remove the hardware for painting. Fill any defects and sand where necessary. The interior may be painted a rich red, yellow or blue, and the exterior is finished with white semigloss paint

HANG A SMALL CHINA CLOSET ABOVE YOUR BREAKFAST TABLE

THE CHINA closet shown here is intended to convert limited kitchen space into a convenient breakfast corner. It requires very little wall area but holds dishes enough for breakfast or lunch. It can be made of almost any available kind of stock. The stiles and top rail of the cabinet front, as well as the four members of the door, are made of 3/4″ material.

     First cut out the two side pieces of 1/4″ stock 37 1/2″ long, making one 13″ wide to overlap the second side member which is cut 12 3/4″ wide. The triangular shelves are made of 3/8″ stock 8 7/8″ wide. A piece of stock 37″ long will be sufficient to make the four shelves. Cut and dress them to measure 12 3/4″ at the sides. Assemble sides and shelves with 4-penny nails.

     Next make the two front stiles of pine 1 3/4″ wide and 37 1/2″ long with one edge cut at an angle of 45°. This operation can be done on the jointer by tilting the fence to the required angle, or it may be accomplished on the bench saw. The top rail is made of 3/4″ stock 2 3/4″ wide and 18 3/8″ long. This length allows for a 1″ tenon on each end as shown in the detail sketch. Mortises are located and cut on the inner edges of the stiles, then the tenons are cut on the ends of the rail to fit these mortises. The rail is glued in place between the stiles, and the assembled unit is fastened to the front of the cabinet with 1 1/2″ brads. The brads should be driven into the edge of each shelf.

     The door is made of 3/4″ stock 2 1/2″ wide. Two pieces 16 3/8″ long will be needed for the top and bottom rails, while the stiles require two pieces 34 3/4″ long. In these pieces cut a rabbet 1/2″ deep and 1 1/2″ wide along one edge as shown in the sketch. Miter the ends of the stiles and rails at an angle of 45°, then cut a 1/8″ slot in each end to take a spline. Make the splines of 1/8″ stock and cut so that the grain of the spline runs at right angles to the miter. Make splines large enough to project beyond the stile and rail. After assembly, trim the splines to proper size.

Use Plywood for Shelves and Sides But Make the Front Frame and the Scrolled Door Frame of Solid Stock

     Draw a full-size pattern of the scrolled door stiles and rails and trace to the stock. Cut the curves to shape on the jig saw, then finish on a drum sander. Assemble the door with glue applied to the butting ends of the stiles and rails as well as to the splines and grooves. After the glue has set, trim the door and fit it to the cabinet.

     Set two loose pin hinges 1 1/2″ long in the door and cabinet stiles, and fasten with flathead wood screws. Install a friction catch and handle of a suitable type.

     After a trial fitting remove the pins, take the door down and saw 1/4″ quarter-round molding to fit the inside of the door for holding the glass. Paint, or stain and varnish, the cabinet and the molding strips. Buy a piece of glass to fit the frame and secure it by nailing the molding in place. Add a strip of molding at the top.

     Fit the underside of the second shelf from the bottom with brass cup hooks and the china closet is ready for use.

     Locate the studs in the wall where the closet is to be mounted and nail it in place at a convenient height. If the closet does not fit both walls perfectly, shim it out with thin strips of wood so it can be firmly mounted.

smart modern chest units

Simple hammer-and-saw carpentry is all you need to build these

THE storage of wearing apparel is always a problem in the home because the average dresser or chest does not provide sufficient drawer space. Furniture designed along traditional lines limits the number of chests that can be placed in a room, but when the piece is designed along modern lines, two or more chests may be placed side by side. The chests shown in the photograph above provide six large drawers. Their construction is such that any craftsman equipped with a bench saw can build duplicates without any trouble.

     Since the side, top and back panels are relatively wide, it is best to use plywood or veneered core stock for these members. The drawer members may be made of solid stock as material of the width required for these parts is readily obtainable. The species of wood used will depend on the finish that is to be applied. Many modern pieces are finished with a colored lacquer. If it is the intention of the craftsman to apply this type of finish, the plywood or core stock should be faced with a cabinetgrade wood such as maple, birch or poplar. If the finish is to be natural or stained, these woods or mahogany or walnut may be used to match other furniture.

     If two chests are to be made, the number of pieces as listed in the bill of materials will have to be doubled. The actual construction of the chest should be started by cutting out and finishing to size each piece listed in the bill of materials. It is advisable to mark the name of the part on one of the surfaces as it is cut to size.

     After each piece has been prepared, a rabbet 1/4″ × 1/2″ as shown in Figs. 2 and 3 is cut on the inside face at the rear edge of each side member. This rabbet is to take the back panel.

     The location of each drawer runner is established on the inside face of the side members; then the runners are made ready for securing to these panels. To prepare the runners, it will be necessary to locate and bore holes 3/16″ in diameter through them to take the 1 1/2″ No. 8 flathead screws. These holes should be countersunk. When securing the runners, glue should be applied to all butting surfaces. All runners should be spaced 2″ from the outer edge in order to allow for the front rail. The bottom runner has a 2″ space between the end of it and the rabbet at the back of the panel to allow for the lower back rail as shown in Fig.

     The top panel has a 1/4″ × 1/2″ rabbet cut along the back edge to take the back and a 1/2″ × 3/4″ rabbet cut along the ends to take the side members. The top is secured to the side members with glue and eightpenny finishing nails. These nails should be driven from the sides and from the top.

     Next, the bottom rails are to be set in place. These are secured by driving eightpenny nails from the outside of the side members and into the ends of the rails. The intermediate front rails are set in place and secured in the same manner. In order to brace the assembled work, the back panel is set in the rabbets and secured with fourpenny finishing nails. The filler strip shown in Fig. 3 is secured to the bottom rail as well as to the side members with eightpenny finishing nails. All nails should be set and filler applied in the holes. The work is sandpapered preparatory to finishing operations which follow.

     As shown in Fig. the drawers are simple in construction. The front members have a 3/8″ × 1 3/16″ rabbet cut across the inside face at each end and a 3/8″ × 3/8″ rabbet cut along the upper edge of the inside face. A 1/4″ × 1/4″ groove is cut along the inside face of the front and side drawer members to take the drawer bottom panel. These grooves are placed 1/4″ from the lower edge.

     To assemble the drawers, the side members are fastened to the front member with glue and eightpenny finishing nails. The back member is fastened to the side members in a similar manner. The bottom panel is slipped in the groove and secured by driving fourpenny nails through the bottom and into the lower edge of the back member.

     The stock for the drawer pulls should have the edges beveled from 5/8″ at one face to the full 1″ at the opposite face as shown in Fig. Each pull is secured to the drawer front with three 1 1/4″ No. 8 flathead screws. To provide for the screws, holes 3/16″ in diameter will have to be bored and countersunk in the front member.

     If the chest is to be finished with colored lacquer or enamel, a prime coat will have to be applied. If enamel is used, a regular enamel undercoat, either white or tinted, may be used. If the finishing material is to be lacquer, a lacquer sealer should be used. When this prime coat has hardened, it should be sanded smooth with No. 4/0 sandpaper before enamel is applied.

     The colored lacquer may be sprayed or brushed on the work. Be sure you obtain the proper lacquer when purchasing this material. If it is to be applied with a spray gun, spraying lacquer must be used. If brushing is to be the method of application, then brushing lacquer should be obtained. If the finish is to be enamel, the coat following the prime coat should be thinned a little with turpentine so as to kill the gloss which is the feature of enamel. The final enamel coat must not be thinned.

BILL OF MATERIALS

NOTE: The above material is for one chest and three drawers. All dimensions are in inches.

modern cabinet units

The contemporary style in furniture is a godsend to the amateur woodworker because it enables him to make pieces that rival costly custom-built work. These cabinets are a striking example. They were designed in the HOME CRAFTSMAN’S experimental workshop by Alvaro A. Altomore

They’re easily built, but look very expensive . . .

THIS chest has been designed for plywood construction. The choice of facing will depend on how the chest is to be finished. Many modern pieces are finished in color with lacquer and should the craftsman wish to use such a finish, the facing of the plywood may be pine, birch or maple.

     Another popular finish is one having a two-tone effect. This is produced by applying a coat of lacquer or paint; then after this has dried, a contrasting color pigment is wiped into the surface. A finish of this type will require open-grain plywood such as chestnut, oak or ash. Should it be desired to finish the chest in the conventional manner with stain, then the plywood should be faced with walnut or mahogany.

     Construction should be started by cutting the various members to the dimensions given in the bill of materials. Each piece should be labeled for future reference.

     The top member, Figs. 1 and requires the cutting of a 1/2″ × 3/4″ rabbet along the under face at each end to take the side members. A 1/4″ × 1/2″ rabbet is run along the under face of the back edge to take the back panel. A rabbet of the same size is cut along the inside face at the rear edge of the side members for the same purpose.

     To provide for the shelf support, a series of holes is located and bored on the inside face of the side members as shown in Fig. It is advisable first to obtain the shelf supports that are to be used so that the holes may be of the proper diameter and depth.

     The side members are fastened to the bottom member with glue and eightpenny finishing nails. The top member is joined to the side members in the same manner. All nails should be set below the surface so that the heads may be covered with a filler. The back panel, which squares the frame as well as bracing it, is fastened to the side, top and bottom members with fourpenny finishing nails.

     The base, made of front and side members as shown in Fig. requires the cutting of a miter at the butting end of the members. The corner braces are cut to the dimensions given in Fig. The aprons are fastened together with sixpenny finishing nails; then the corner braces are glued and nailed into position with the same size nails. To fasten this base member to the underside of the bottom, a series of holes will have to be bored and counterbored as shown in Fig. 4 to take 2″ No. 9 flathead screws. When completed, the base is fastened to the chest as shown in the photograph.

     The door members require the cutting of a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet along one edge of each as shown in Fig. Fastening the doors to the cabinet calls for the use of 2″ brass butts. Gains should be cut into the edge of each door member to take the hinges.

     If shelf supports such as shown in Fig. 3 are used, it will be necessary to cut dadoes across the ends of each shelf member as shown, to allow for the thickness of the metal.

     The door pulls shown in Fig. 5 are made of a brass disk and a short length of brass tubing. The shaping of the disk is a lathe operation. A hollow chuck made of wood similar to the one shown in Fig. 8 will be required. This is made by taking a piece of stock at least 3/4″ thick, mounting it on a faceplate, then turning a recess in the center just large enough in diameter so that the disk is a force fit into it. A small hole should be bored through the center in order that the disk may be driven out after it has been shaped.

     Figure 9 shows the recess being turned; Fig. 10 shows the metal disk being polished in the lathe with the use of emery cloth; Fig. 11 shows the various parts of the pull ready for assembly. The brass tube is hard-soldered to the back of the disk; then a wood plug of suitable outside diameter is inserted in the tube. Small holes are drilled through the tube wall to take the 1/2″ No. 2 roundhead screws that secure the plug in place. The pulls are attached to the doors with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flathead screws.

BILL OF MATERIALS

NOTE: All dimensions are in inches.

The doors, Fig. are hinged with cabinet butts, but invisible hinges could be used if desired. The base, Fig. is a simple unit, mode separately. The handsome hardware consists of a turned brass disk, Figs. soldered to a short brass cylinder, which is plugged with wood, Fig. 11

Portable

SEWING CABINET

EVERY woman who does her own sewing has need of a sewing cabinet for the storage of sewing equipment, findings and mending. To be most useful, the cabinet should be of the type that can be handled or moved readily.

     A type of Priscilla cabinet that is extremely light for its size and one that provides ample storage room is illustrated. It can be made of almost any kind of cabinet wood free from knots and checks. The sizes of the various pieces are listed in the bill of materials. The length of the handle and the legs are the finished dimensions after they are turned. It is advisable to cut these at least 1″ longer to allow some waste at each end for lathe centers.

     It will be necessary to prepare a full-size pattern of the end member. With the use of graph squares laid out on a large sheet of wrapping paper, the outline given in Fig. 1 can be reproduced in full size. The pattern is cut to shape; then, after drawing center lines on the end pieces, the pattern is used to lay out the stock as shown in Fig. The outline need be applied only to one of the large end members. The second member should be fastened temporarily to the one on which the contour was laid out.

     The location of the hole for the handle as well as the holes for the screws that secure the legs to the end members should be established before cutting the stock to shape. These holes may be bored at this time or after the inner end member has been glued to the large end member.

     The two inner end members should be fastened together with brads; then the same pattern that was used on the large end members is used again to lay out the curves. After they are band-sawed to shape, 3/8″ must be cut off the curved portion to allow for the setback of the panel. The marking gauge is used for this purpose. While the gauge is set, it should be used to scribe a line on the large end pieces as shown in Fig. 7 to locate the position of the inner end members. Figure 8 shows the cutting of the inner end members to size.

     As shown in Fig. recesses are laid out and cut on the upper edge of the inner end members to take the tray. The inner end members are glued to the large end members. It is also necessary to cut recesses at each corner to take aprons. Fig.

     Turning the four legs as shown in Fig. 9 and the handle comes next. The contour of these turnings is shown in Figs. 2 and A full-size pattern developed by means of graph squares will aid in reproducing the turning as shown in the drawing. After the legs have been turned, they are cut on the band saw as in Fig. 10 to fit against the end members. Screws hold them.

     The aprons are grooved as shown in Fig. 5 to take the bottom panel, and the outer edge is rounded. These aprons are secured to the inner end members with 1 1/4″ No. 7 flathead wood screws. Be sure to glue the handle in place before joining the second end unit to the aprons. Check the distance between the end members at the lowest point to be sure it measures the same as the length of the aprons. The assembly to this point should be as shown in Fig.

     The 1/8″ plywood bottom panel is fitted to the cabinet as in Fig. It should be glued to the edges of the inner end members and to the grooves in the aprons.

     The lids have the outer edge of each rounded and are then pivoted to the end members as shown in Fig. 5 with 1 1/2″ No. 8 roundhead wood screws.

     The tray is assembled by gluing the partitions into 1/8″ × 1/16″ dadoes cut into the side members. The bottom is glued to the side and end members. Small decorative turnings or ornamental buttons can be glued to the exposed ends of the handle. Brass knobs are applied to the lids.

     The completed work is given a coat of stain. This is followed by several coats of shellac, the final coat being rubbed down with No. 00 steel wool after it has set.

BILL OF MATERIALS

All dimensions are in inches.

This sequence of photos, taken as the sewing cabinet was made in the Home Craftsman workshop, shows marking an end member and using a gauge to indicate the setback; band-sawing the inner end members; turning and band-sawing the legs; the assembled frame; bending the bottom panel in place, and the finished piece

HANDSOME BOOKCASE AND CUPBOARD

THIS versatile piece of furniture will serve equally well as a bookcase for den or living mom and for dishes and table linen in the breakfast room or dining room. As with all the projects of this series, simplicity of construction is the keynote. The sides of the cupboard are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock, 9 1/2″ wide and 43 1/4″ long. The top is made of the same stock 37″ long. The inside rear edges of these three members are rabbeted to take the cupboard back. These rabbets are 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep. Those on the side members extend from end to end, while the rabbet on the top is stopped 3/8″ of each end.

The bottom of the cupboard is dressed up with baseboard mitered at front ends

     Three shelves measuring 3/4″ thick, 8 3/4″ wide and 35 1/2″ long are required. One of these is for the cupboard bottom, the second is for the shelf above the closed portion, and the third is for the upper shelf in the open section. The shelf inside the closed cupboard section is made of 3/4″ stock, 8″ wide and 35 1/2″ long. The cross-section drawing shows the location of each one. After the positions have been marked on the sides, the shelves are fastened in place with 8-penny finishing nails or 2 1/2″ brads set below the surface. The top is fastened in place in the same way. The closed portion of the cupboard has two doors separated by a permanent upright member. This latter piece is made of 3/4″ stock, 5 1/2″ wide and 18 7/8″ long. It is located in the center and fastened in place with 2 1/2″ brads, these brads being driven through the shelves and into the ends of the upright member. The back is made of 3/4″ stock, 43 3/8″ long. If random width boards are used in making up the back panel, a more pleasing effect will be obtained. The butting edges of the back pieces should be joined together with a tongue-and-groove joint. The groove may be cut with a dado head and the tongue cut on the bench saw with a regular rip saw blade, or tongue-and-groove boards may be purchased. The joining edges of the back pieces are chamfered to form a “V” joint when they are assembled. The pieces are fastened with 6-penny finishing nails.

     The cupboard doors are made of four pieces of 3/4″ stock. Two of these pieces are joined together with a tongue-and-groove joint to form one door while the other two are assembled to make up the other door. The corners of the joined edges are chamfered to form a “V” joint, in the same manner as the back members. These are glued together. The doors are now trimmed to fit the openings. Front and side baseboards are made of 3/4″ stock 3 1/2″ wide. They are cut to the proper lengths, 10 1/4″ for the sides and 38 1/2″ for the front, and the butting ends are mitered at a 45-degree angle. They are fastened in place with 6-penny finishing nails. Imitation hand-wrought iron strap hinges are used to hang the doors. The catches are of the same type. The cupboard is stained, shellacked and waxed.

Hinges for the cupboard doors are strap-and-butt type. The butt leaf is mortised inside cupboard

PINE BOOKSHELF ACCENTS A ROOM

Random width Pine Paneling for the Back and a Jigsawed Valance Topped by Strips of Standard Crown Molding Lend Character and Charm and Give Colonial Flavor to an Extremely Simple Bookshelf

NEARLY every home has a corner that can accommodate another bookshelf. In living room, bedroom or hallway the informality of a Colonial type of bookshelf would be appropriate and would add a welcome convenience. Fortunately, the pine bookshelf described in this article is one that any craftsman possessing a circular saw and a jig saw or band saw can construct without any difficulty. The molding at the top is standard crown molding which can be purchased at any lumber yard, but because of the way in which the bookshelf was designed this molding blends into the extended top so as to appear as one piece of stock rather than a built-up unit. The jigsawed plinth at the bottom and valance at the top add just the right touch to place this bookshelf in the Colonial period. With the exception of the back, the stock used in construction is clear pine, 3/4″ thick. The back is made of random width standard tongue-and- groove knotty pine with a V-joint.

     Since the entire bookshelf is assembled with glue and finishing nails, and all complicated and difficult joints have been eliminated, it is possible for the beginner in the field of woodworking to produce a piece of furniture as good looking as the one in the photograph.

     The construction should be started by obtaining two pieces of 3/4″ pine, 9 1/2″ wide and 48 5/8″ long. These are for the sides. The location of each shelf should be established on the inside faces of these members. The back is to set in a rabbet 3/8″ × 3/4″. This rabbet, located on the inside edge, may be cut on the bench saw. It will be necessary to remove a small section from the upper front corner to receive the valance. The detail cross section shows the size of the valance, 3/4″ × 3 5/8″, and the size of the notch is the same. One of the photographs shows the cutting of this notch.

     Now that the two sides are complete, the next step is the cutting of shelves. Four shelves are required. These are made of 3/4″ stock cut to a finished size of 8 3/4″ wide and 42 1/2″ long. They are fastened in place between the sides with glue and 8-penny finishing nails, with the nails set. The back is made of random width tongue-and-groove knotty pine cut to lengths of 45″. About 20 square feet of stock will be required. The back is nailed in the rabbets of the two sides and also to the back of each shelf. The valance is made of a piece of 3/4″ stock, 3 5/8″ wide and 44″ long. A pattern of the jigsawed lower edge will have to be made with the aid of graph squares and then be traced onto the stock. After it is cut out and sandpapered, it is glued and nailed in place.

     The plinth at the bottom is made up of one piece of 3/4″ stock, 4″ wide and 45 1/2″ long for the front, and two pieces 3/4″ × 4″ × 10 1/4″ for the sides. The butting ends of these members are mitered. There is to be a 3/8″ × 3/8″ chamfer cut on the upper outside corner of each member. A pattern of the jigsawed front member must be made up and traced onto the stock. It is cut and finished in the same manner as the valance. The plinth members are nailed as illustrated in a photograph.

     The top is made of a piece of 3/4″ pine, 11 1/4″ wide and 47 1/2″ long. The front edge and the two ends have a rabbet 5/8″ × 1 1/4″ cut in them as shown in the detail sketch. The back edge has a 3/8″ × 3/4″ rabbet cut to take the back paneling. The top is fastened in place with finishing nails. The crown molding is 3/4″ thick and 2 3/4″ wide. The lower edge of this molding should be established by drawing a line on the two sides and the valance at a point 1 3/8″ below the underside of the top. The molding is cut to the proper length, mitered at the corners and fastened in place with 1 1/2″ brads.

     For the bookshelf to have the traditional, mellow tone of colonial furniture, it should be stained with either pine or maple stain. Afterwards it is given several coats of white shellac or clear varnish. The final coat, when hard, should be rubbed down with pumice stone or No. 00 steel wool. If varnish was omitted, several coats of paste wax should be applied over the shellac coats. The resulting surface will be durable.

BOOKCASE AND

Wrought iron ends and cypress shelves are made up in units that combine for a variety of uses and permit later additions as the need arises

CONSTRUCTION of this versatile piece of furniture, a combination of wood and metal, is based on the principle of assembled units. One section with the top unit and legs provides a fireside bench. A thin cushion may be made of suitable material for the top of this bench. Two sections with the top and bottom units make a convenient table suitable at the side of a chair or at the end of a studio couch. Three or more sections provide that ever needed bookcase. Additional sections may be added to give more room for books or the shelves can be made of any length to fit a desired space. Variety may be given to the size of the end units as to height or width of shelves.

     The method of making the necessary bends to construct the wrought iron end units depends upon equipment at hand. A bending jig is perhaps the easiest way as with this tool the metal may be bent cold. Another method is to place the metal bar in the vise and use a large monkey wrench as a bending fork. When this method is used for bending iron bar stock it is best to scratch-mark the bend and to heat the metal with a blowtorch to a red heat. Adjust the wrench to fit thickness of the stock.

     After obtaining six pieces of 3/16″ × 3/4″ × 40″ iron, the first step is to make a full-size drawing of the end unit. On one piece of stock lay out the bends. Starting 5″ from the end of the bar and using a small square draw a line on the metal with a sharp pointed tool. From this line measure 9 1/4″, then 10″, then 9 1/4″. These points will locate the centers of the bends. Proceed to lay out the other five pieces of the 40″ iron from this marked piece. At this time also mark the bend on the two pieces that form the top band and the two pieces for the legs, all of which measure 3/16″ × 3/4″ × 24″. One of the sketches shows that the 40″ piece is longer than necessary and that the ends overlap after the bends are made. This excess is to allow for any variation caused in the bending operation and the final cut is made with a hack saw when the width of the unit is checked and the piece squared up after the bending procedure.

     Bend the first bar to fit the full-size drawing that you have made, and bend the other five units exactly like the first one. Pile them up as they are made and then correct any variation of size. After cutting to size with the hacksaw, file the ends so that you have a good tight joint. Braze the ends if you have a blowtorch or other equipment that will heat the iron to a good red heat. If you cannot braze this joint it will not matter much as the units will be held quite rigid when the brass supporting rods are secured tightly in place.

     Next, form the top unit and the legs. Make these round bends on the large arbor of a bending jig or bend hot around a piece of 1 1/2″ iron pipe held in the vise.

     Mark holes for brass rod supporting members to be placed 3″ from the outside edge to the center of the hole on the top and bottom (the 10″ side) of one end unit. From this piece mark all the other pieces including top unit, legs and wood shelves. Drill these holes for 1/4″ stove bolts that will be used as studs when screwed into the brass rods and run through the iron units and wood shelves to secure these members of the bookcase. To prepare the upright brass rods cut them to fit the end unit at the point where the holes have been drilled. Locate the center on the end of each brass rod and tap for the 1/4″ stove bolt. Start the stove bolt in one end of the brass rod then with the hacksaw cut off the head. Repair the threads if necessary so that the bolt will enter the end of the next rod after it passes through the iron units and wood shelf.

Two units make a commodious end table for easy chair or divan, while three units start a bookcase that can grow higher with new units and wider with a complete session

     All parts should be finished before assembly. The iron should be painted black, if desired; the brass should be cleaned and polished. Wood shelves should have edges rounded and sanded.

NOVEL FINISH IS APPROPRIATE

     A variety of finishes are offered for the wood parts. A special finish called Japanese Sogi is accomplished first by burning the surface of the wood with a blowtorch. Afterwards the wood is given a good brushing with a stiff wire brush. This treatment burns out the soft grain and leaves the hard grain in ridges like driftwood or boards that have been exposed to the weather for a long time. To bleach the wood after burning, apply a solution of oxalic acid; mix one ounce to a pint of warm water. Apply this to the wood with a brush and let it stay over night. Go over the surface the next morning with a wire brush and apply wax. If the wood does not bleach sufficiently make a second application of the acid bath. If you prefer a colored finish, paint the. wood and wipe off with a cloth. Enough color will stay in the low places to give a tone to the wood. For color it is not necessary to bleach. Cypress responds best to Sogi treatment.

     The final assembly is made in the following way. Start with the leg unit. Insert a stove bolt from underneath and run it through the first shelf. Lay the bottom part of the first iron end unit in place over the bolt and screw the brass rod on the bolt. The other sections are assembled in this manner and the top is secured with a stove bolt which is tightened with an offset screw driver. To tighten the brass rods use pliers but protect the polished surface with a piece of leather.

     The idea of the bent iron ends may be applied to many uses. Hanging shelves may be made by this method but care must be taken to have every unit square before assembly so that the finished piece will stand upright and remain steady. Additional sections may be added easily as the need arises.

At right a strip of wrought iron is being bent in a jig to conform with the pattern of the feet. Top and end strips are bent with the same device

SHIP’S WHEEL MAGAZINE BASKET

Familiar Motif Used to Form Sides and Legs of this Commodious Basket

It Makes an Ideal Project for Every Owner of a Workshop Lathe

ADAPTATIONS of familiar objects must make functional use of the object to be successful. Here, certainly, functional use has been made of the two ship’s wheels, for they not only form the sides of the magazine basket, but also act as supports or legs.

     Maple was selected for the handles, spokes and spindles, and pine was used for all other parts. Start work on the rims by gluing up 3/4″ stock to size 13″ × 13″ and mounting the stock on the lathe faceplate. Scribe the 12″ diameter outline as well as the hub and reed decoration. It will be necessary to remove the stock from the faceplate to continue the layout. Cut the stock down to 12″ × 12″ and on the front lay out the locations for top and bottom magazine basket frames. Divide the circle into six equal parts for locations of spokes and handles. Now fasten the stock to the faceplate again and turn the rim and hub to shape. The hubs consist of two parts each, the original face hub and an additional piece 3/8″ thick turned to the same diameter as the hub. These two pieces are temporarily fastened together with a 1″ No. 7 flat head screw countersunk in the back of the hub. Lock the work in a vise to bore 1/2″ holes, 1/2″ deep, for spokes.

     The six spoke and handle locations are carried around from, the face to the outside edge of the rim where holes 1/2″ in diameter are bored through. Block up under the bit to prevent chipping the rim as the bit comes through.

The photographs at the right show the assembled basket proper, which consists of an upper frame and a lower frame, using plywood bottom together with end spindles, and center spindles forming the partition. Notice that the frames are cut away to receive the rim. Photographs below and at far right show progressive steps in assembling one of the ship’s wheels. The glued-up rim has been lathe-turned to shape and bored to receive center spokes and outside handles. The center pictures show how the hub is made up of two parts, glued and screwed together

     Turn twelve spokes, six for each wheel. and leave the 1/2″ long doweled ends to fit into the hub and the 7/8″ long ends to fit into the rim. Stain, finish and polish each spoke as it is completed in the lathe. Do not stain the doweled ends to be glued. Twelve handles are required, six for each wheel. To assemble the wheel, glue the spokes into the rim, remove the screw from the hub, thereby separating the front from the back. Set the 1/2″ doweled ends of the spokes in the half holes after spreading glue, then set the back piece in place and refasten with the screw. If you have followed the dimensions accurately you will find the back of each wheel will be level if tested with a straightedge and the face will show the hub raised 3/8″ above the surface of the wheel. The handles may now be glued in place.

     The bottom frame, your next consideration, is made up of four parts, mitered and splined at the corners. The front and back pieces are cut to 3/4″ × 1 1/4″ × 15″ size and a 1/4″ × 1/4″ rabbet is cut in the inside top corner edge for the 1/4″ plywood bottom to set into. The part of the bottom frame that comes in contact with the wheels is cut away to allow the wheels to set 1/2″ deep into the frame. To determine the angle of the cut to be made where the rim of the wheel sets into the bottom frame, hold this piece in place between the marks showing its location on the wheel. Allow an equal amount of material to extend beyond the wheel on both sides, then pencil the angle. The end pieces are cut 3/4″ × 1 1/4″ × 9″ and rabbeted the same as the front and back pieces. Miter the corners, cut spline slots and splines, assemble and glue the frame together.

Here at right is the assembled magazine basket making good use of two ship’s wheels for the sides and utilizing two of the lower angles as supporting legs. This basket finished with pine or maple stain will be appropriate for a fireside setting or on one side of an easy chair. Made up chiefly of lathe turnings, it challenges the skill of every lathe owner to produce them for his home or for resale

     The top frame of the basket is constructed in like manner, using 1/2″ × 1″ stock and omitting the rabbets. A partition strip 1/2″ × 1″ × 13 3/4″ is let into the ends 3/8″ deep to divide the top frame in two equal parts. This frame is fastened to the backs of the wheels with 1″ No. 7 flat head wood screws, countersunk.

     The twelve basket spindles are turned from 3/4″ × 3/4″ maple stock to size and shape shown in drawings. Three are required on each end and six through the center of the basket. They are located 2″ apart starting from a center line on the end pieces of both frames. A 1/4″ hole, 1/4″ deep, is bored at the location marks to receive the doweled ends turned in the spindles.

     It is advisable to sand, stain and finish the project before assembling.

New Design for a Modern BOOKSHELF

The Curved Shelves and Skewed Side Members of This New Rack Give It a Style More Pleasing and Original Than Square Units

THE ADDITION of a single piece of furniture—even a simple piece—is often all that is required to change the complexion of an entire room. An open bookshelf, for instance, fastened to the wall of living room or bedroom will contribute a colorful focal point to the scheme of the room. When made in the modern manner, as the one illustrated here, the bookshelf immediately suggests newness to all who enter the room.

     In addition to its decorative qualities which are enhanced by the skewed ends this new bookshelf possesses several practical features. Its curved shelves which narrow at the center make even the smallest books easy to pull out. Furthermore, the unit holds a comparatively large number of choice titles at eye level where they are easy to scan. Specifications given in the drawings will produce a rack that will accommodate up to 40 volumes of medium and small sizes. Before the rack is made it is advisable to check the heights of available books against the distances between shelves. If the size of the unit must be increased it should be done sparingly. Obviously a hanging rack should not be very heavy.

     The stock used in the construction of the bookshelf may be any available kind of solid wood or plywood. The sides are made of two pieces of 5/8″ stock 7 1/4″ wide and 20 1/8″ long. A rabbet measuring 5/8″ × 1/2″ is cut at the upper end on the inside face to take the top shelf. Dadoes are cut on the same face at the locations indicated in the drawing to take the middle and bottom shelves. These dadoes are 5/8″ wide and 1/4″ deep. The lower end of each side member is curved.

     The shelves are made of three pieces of 5/8″ stock, 7″ wide and 32 3/4″ long. Since the curved edges of these pieces are identical they can be cut as a unit. A photograph shows this being done on the band saw. The plan drawing gives the layout of the curve and shows the ends cut at an angle of 78°. The front edge is finished smooth with a spokeshave or file. The top shelf retains its overall length of 32 3/4″ while the middle and bottom shelves are trimmed to 32 1/4″ in length.

     The cut parts are assembled with glue and 1 1/2″ brads. After the glue has set, the back edge of each side piece is planed as shown in the photograph to bring it flush with the shelves. Shelf hangers are attached to the back edge of the side members. Screws may be driven through the hangers and into the wall if fiber plugs have first been forced into holes drilled into the plaster wall. If this method is not desired picture hangers offer the best alternative.

     The finish of the shelf is largely dependent upon the type of finish used on existing furniture in the room where the shelf is to be placed. A natural finish consisting of stain and wax may be employed, or the shelf may be finished with white or other light-colored paint or enamel if such a finish will be in keeping with surroundings.

Photos above show construction and assembly of the shelves. First, the three shelves are tut to shape on band saw, then the sawed edges are pled smooth. Ends of the shelves are cut at an angle. Top shelf is left slightly longer than others

Magazine Basket COPIED FROM CRADLE

The Familiar Style of Colonial Cradle Comes Back into Modern Use as an Attractive Magazine Basket that Can be Reproduced with a Few Simple Tools and at Low Cost

Each compartment of the cradle is large enough to hold two stacks of magazines

BACK in Colonial times cradles of this design were widely used for their rightful purpose. Today, with their general proportions modified, they are extremely useful for holding magazines and newspapers. Moreover, when used this way they are attractive, quaint and distinctive.

     The cradle should be made of pine, walnut, maple or cherry. These are typical Colonial woods and the selection of any one of them will enhance the finished article.

     Start construction on the four corner posts. Each post measures 1 1/2″ × 1 1/2″ × 13 1/4″. A compass set to 7/8″ radius is used to mark the rounding at the top and bottom ends. Block plane and file do the work. A notch is made at the bottom to receive the rockers. Let this job wait, however, until the rockers have been made, because the notch should be fitted to the top contour of the rockers.

     The ends come out of pieces measuring 3/4″ × 9″ × 13″. After they have been squared to size, make a half-pattern of the end and mark it directly on the wood. Each end is tapered from a 13″ width at the top to a 10″ width at the bottom. Dadoes are cut on the inside faces, as shown in the drawing, to take the partitions. These dadoes are cut the full length of the ends, but the partitions will stop at the bottom panel.

     Make a pattern of the rockers and cut them to shape. They come out of pieces of stock measuring 3/4″ × 3″ × 17″. The bottom edge remains flat at the center so that the magazine cradle will stand level on the floor. Top edges of the rockers are rounded off.

     Each side piece measures 3/4″ × 8 1/4″ × 21″. After these pieces have been squared to size, mark and cut the top scroll design from the accompanying pattern. Cut the top edge of each partition to the same pattern. The bottom is made of a piece of plywood measuring 1/4″ × 11″ × 22″.

     Start the assembly with the posts and ends. Dowels 3/8″ in diameter are used to connect the ends and posts. Before gluing any parts together mark and bore all dowel holes for the connection of end units and side pieces. Use good quality glue and clamp parts together.

     After the ends have been assembled, the next step is to locate the slots in the ends of the posts to take the rockers. As shown in the front view, the slot is located 3/8″ in from each side of the post. These lines are carried around to the front end and back of the post. The depth of these cuts is established by placing the rocker on the assembled end unit in its relative position and drawing a line on the outside of each post following the upper edge of the rocker. These lines are carried across the sides of the post to establish the depth of cut at each side. The slot is cut by making several saw cuts within the section which is to be removed. Cutting out of the waste wood is done with a sharp chisel worked from each side toward the center in order to prevent the edges from splitting. The rockers are glued in place and pegged with a 1 1/4″ length of dowel.

     Before the ends and sides are assembled permanently 1/2″ cleats are fastened with flat head screws along the bottom inside edges of these parts. The cradle bottom is later fastened over these cleats.

     The two units, with connecting rockers, are now assembled to the sides. Corners of the plywood bottom are cut out to fit around the inside corners of the posts. The bottom is glued over the 1/2″ cleats and a few brads are used to secure this assembly. The partitions are cut to the required size and shape, then fitted in place. This work completes the construction of the cradle.

     All parts are thoroughly sanded and sharp edges are rounded off. The work is inspected for dents and scratches. Most of these may be removed with further sanding or may be filled if necessary. Now is the time to decide whether or not you want to give the cradle the appearance of being an antique. Signs of wear may be added around the hand holes and along the edges of the side members to give this effect. File and spokeshave will cut down any edges where years of usage would normally show.

     Prepared stain of a color appropriate for the wood selected may be purchased, or an oil stain composed of three basic colors—raw sienna, burnt sienna and burnt umber—may be mixed. It is advisable to mix oil stain to a fairly heavy consistency, especially for white pine.

     Apply the stain with a brush to all parts of the cradle and rub off the surplus with a soft cloth. If you like contrasting tones, rub vigorously in certain areas for this contrast. Follow this coat with two or three coats of thin white shellac, rubbed between coats. After the final coat, rub down with fine steel wool. Finish the job with a coat of furniture wax.

Extra Bookcase Can Be Built on Inside of Small Door

IT IS doubtful if a home can be found where some kind of book storage place is not needed. Bookcases can always be made or purchased, but quite often there is no place to put them. A location that can be used to advantage for the storage of books is a closet door. The photograph shows such a bookcase.

     If the closet door in which the bookcase is to be installed is of the type with a single panel the work will be fairly simple. If the door is of the multi-panel type, it is also possible to do the same work, but in this case the intermediate rails will have to be removed. The panels are removed by cutting away the molding on the back of the door as shown in the sketch.

     The sides of the bookcase are made of two pieces of 1/2″ stock 6″ wide and long enough to extend from the bottom rail to the top one. The top and bottom of the case frame are made of the same size stock. The shelves are made of 3/4″ × 6″ stock. The lengths of these cross members will be determined from the width of the opening left after the panel and molding have been removed. The locations of shelves are established on the side pieces and fastened there with 2″ brads. After the case has been assembled it is placed in the door and fastened to the stiles and rails with the same size brads. The back is made of 1/4″ plywood or fiberboard and fastened to the case with 1″ nails. The completed work is painted to match the woodwork of the door, or the shelves could be painted the color of the trim and the interior sides and back of the bookcase could be painted a light pastel color, preferably a tint of a dominating color in the room scheme.

MAGAZINE BASKET GETS THEME FROM HORSESHOE

This Novel Tallyho Magazine Basket Making Use of Two Jigsawed Horseshoes Separated with Dowels is an Easy Project for the Small Shop and a Useful One Anywhere

NEW ADAPTATIONS of familiar objects always prove to be popular. Here, a new treatment of an old subject has resulted in a novel design for a practical magazine basket. The design of this basket is based upon a sport motif which blends admirably with an informal setting such as a game room, porch or den. Its plain, simple design, and the absence of intricate fretwork and carvings, along with its sporting character make it especially suited as a man’s magazine basket. A hunting horn is overlaid at the center of each panel to complete the sporting theme. Dowels, used as stretchers, form the sides of the basket, and the ends of these dowels are allowed to show on the outside faces to simulate a suggestion of horseshoe nails. A center partition, with a suitable hand grip for carrying, divides the basket.

A jigsawed bunting born glued and nailed to the panel furthers the tallyho theme

     Hand tools may be used exclusively in the construction of this project, although power driven tools will, of course, cut the construction time to a few hours.

     The first operation is the laying out of templates for the horseshoe, for the face panels and the partition panel. These templates must be made full size for tracing to the stock, but they should be half templates, extending only to the vertical center line. Details of these three parts are shown in the working drawings, Figs. 1 and The horseshoes are cut from 1/2″ stock and are jigsawed to shape in four separate parts, two to each shoe. Location marks are made for the 1/2″ dowel holes to be bored at a later time in the construction.

     Two face panels and the partition panel are cut to shape from 1/4″ plywood stock. If your templates have been carefully laid out and the work accurately cut according to the templates, you will be able to bore all necessary dowel holes in one operation. Set all the cut parts in place, one upon the other in proper order. Fill all hollow sections with scrap pieces of proper thickness so that the bit in boring will pass through solid wood. Hand clamp the parts together, using scrap pieces of wood under clamps to prevent marring the work. Now you are ready for the boring operation. Bore the holes almost completely through, or until the point of the bit shows through. Then reverse and complete the through hole. This reversing process is to prevent splitting of the material as the bit breaks through. After completing the boring operation the clamps may be removed and the parts separated.

     The carrying handle is built up. A piece of 1/2″ stock is placed on each side of a core formed by the 1/4″ partition panel. Glue and brads hold these pieces in place. Edges are rounded with a block plane and finished with sandpaper.

     Ten 1/2″ dowels are cut to 9 5/8″ length. These dowels are split on the circular saw to a depth of 1/2″ from the ends to receive wedges after the basket has been assembled.

     The basket bottom is cut to size, 1/2″ × 11 1/4″ × 8 1/8″. A groove measuring 1/4″ × 1/4″ is cut along the center line of the bottom, from edge to edge. The lower edge of the partition panel will fit into groove when all parts are assembled.

     Assembly of the project starts when the wooden horseshoes are ready to be glued to the face panels. Brads driven from the rear of the panels will aid in securing the overlays in place. The tallyho horns are glued in place as shown in the illustration. The small blocks, or calks, at the top of the horeshoes are now glued and fastened in place with brads. This will complete the face panels. Set four dowels in place in the partition panel; then set this unit in place in one face panel along with the remaining dowels. The other face panel may now be added. Glue is necessary for fastening the dowels in place. The wedging of the dowels is to be done after the bottom has been fastened in place. Glue and 1″ brads through the face panels into the ends of the basket bottom secure it in place. The wedges may now be glued and driven home, after which they are trimmed and sanded flush with the face surfaces. Brad holes that show should be filled. All parts should be sandpapered thoroughly; edges and corners should be slightly rounded.

Photos at left show how the center partition goes on four dowels and how the horsehoe id bored to receive five on each side

     A suitable stain, in keeping with the type of wood chosen for the construction, may be applied. Finish with several coats of white shellac, well rubbed down with steel wool and covered with good furniture wax. Enamel may be substituted for stain and shellac if a colorful basket is preferred.

Odd-Size Volumes Fit This Modern Bookcase

HERE’S the answer to your orphan books which are either too large or too small to fit gracefully in ordinary bookshelves. You can build a streamlined modernistic case tailored to accommodate odd-sized books and to present a pleasing appearance because each book rests among other books similar in size.

     To build this bookcase purchase 21 feet of 1″ × 10″ finished lumber, either fir or pine. If the locations of the shelves shown in the drawing are to be altered, some adjustments may have to be made in the bill of materials. If the case is to be constructed as shown, the first step is that of cutting the pieces to sizes listed and marking each piece with its proper key letter for identification.

     Assembly is the next step. Tenpenny finishing nails or 1 1/2″ No. 8 flathead wood screws may be used. If screws are used, holes to take the screws will have to be bored. To produce the best appearance screw holes should be counterbored to a depth of 3/8″ so that the heads can be covered with wood plugs.

     The location of shelves (B) should be established on the side members (D). Uprights (E) must be established on the upper shelf at the same time. After screw holes have been bored and counterbored in the side members and upper shelf, the shelves and sides can be assembled. The location of the partition member (F) is established on the lower shelves; holes are bored in the shelf members. Before the partition member is set in place, the location of shelf (C) should be established and holes bored. Shelf (C) is set in place after the partition has been secured. Uprights (E) are attached to the upper shelf before the two top members (A) are joined to the uprights and side member. Although no back appears on the illustrated model, a panel of 1/4″ plywood can he added if it is desired. The entire bookcase should be painted to match existing trim of the room.

BILL OF MATERIALS

PINE BOOK SHELF PROVIDES SPACE FOR 300 VOLUMES

If Your Book Collection Is Outgrowing Small Bookcases It’s Time to Build This Simply Constructed Library Unit

LOW-PRICED editions of both technical books and fiction have been responsible for expanding home libraries. These days nearly every home is acquiring new books faster than they can be accommodated in available shelf space. About the only way the craftsman can cope with the problem is to make an extra-large bookshelf that will allow the entire book collection to be brought together and kept where titles can be arranged by subject for easy selection. Such a bookcase need not be ornate or difficult to build, since it is a functional piece and not an ornamental one. A large bookcase properly filled will not be seen because of the books. The one shown in the photograph and drawing may seem to be exceptionally large for your present collection of books, but it is well to provide for new titles. Bare spaces on shelves can be filled out with bric-a-brac until such time as new books are acquired.

     The case shown in the drawing, has an overall width of 50″ a depth of 10 1/4″ and a height of 72″. It has been designed so that standard dimensioned pine can be used for its construction with a minimum of waste. The number of shelves will depend on the space required between them, and this arrangement in turn is determined by the height of the books that the case is to hold. Suggested spacing is shown in the drawing, but this can be varied without changing the overall size, design or construction.

     The sides are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock 9 1/2″ wide and 72″ long. Lumber yards sell this material already dressed to the width and thickness specified, but it should be ordered as one piece of standard dimensioned pine 1″ × 10″ × 12′-0″. A 1/4″ × 1/2″ rabbet is cut on the inside face of each piece along the back edge to take the back panel. The next step is to establish the location of each shelf on the inside face of the side members. The lines that locate these shelves must be square to the edge of the stock. The dimensions shown in the drawing for the shelf locations may be followed or they may be changed to suit individual requirements.

     The shelves are made of standard 1″ × 10″ stock, but because of the inset back panel they will have to be finished to a width of 9 1/4″. This work can be done on the bench saw or the pieces may be dressed to size with a smooth plane. The seven shelves can be cut from one 12-foot piece and one 16-foot piece since each shelf must be 47″ long. This length will allow sufficient material for cutting the boards and squaring the ends. The shelves are fastened to the side members with 10-penny finishing nails which are to be driven through the side pieces and into the end of the shelf. When the shelf is being placed in position preparatory to nailing, it is important to have the back edge of the shelf flush with the bottom of the rabbet. Any necessary trimming can be done after assembly by planing the excess from the front edge of the shelf.

     The back is made of 1/4″ material measuring 48″ wide and 68 3/4″ long. This stock may be plywood, fiberboard or wallboard and should be fastened to the sides and shelves with 2-penny nails. If the back is made of more than one panel, the joint should come behind one of the shelves. The base molding as well as the crown molding can be obtained from most lumber yards, as these are stock designs.

     The finished book case will look attractive when stained or painted. Nail holes should be filled with plastic wood. Two coats of wax or varnish can be applied over pine stain.

Graceful lyre design ornaments this

JIG SAWED

MAGAZINE BASKET

IF CURRENT magazines are to be kept instantly available and still be stored in an orderly manner, the use of a magazine basket is almost a necessity. This lyre magazine basket is one that any home craftsman who possesses a jig saw can make without difficulty. The original was made of pine-faced plywood and lacquered, but plywood faced with mahogany, walnut or any of the better types of cabinet woods may be substituted and the work finished natural or stained.

     The end members will require two pieces of 3/8″ stock 13″ wide and 14″ long. A full-size pattern of this member will have to be prepared, then traced on one end member. The outline of the pair should be cut at the same time. This can be done by placing the two members face to face, with the one on which the contour was traced uppermost. The two pieces can be fastened together temporarily with 1/2″ brads driven in the portions that are to be removed. The cutting should be done on the jig saw. The edges can be made smooth with a file, followed by sandpapering with No. 1 and No. 2/0 sandpaper.

     For the side members, two pieces of 3/8″ stock 10 3/4″ wide and 13″ long will be required. The same procedure that was outlined for the end members should be repeated. The piercing which produces the lyre is accomplished on the jig saw. In order that the blade of the jig saw may be passed through the stock, small holes will have to be bored througn the pieces within each area that is to be pierced.

     The bottom member will require a piece of stock 3/8″ thick, 10 1/4″ wide and 13″ long. The partition will take a piece of 3/8″ stock 13 1/2″ wide and 13″ long. As this member will require the cutting of a handhole as well as the shaping of the upper edge, a pattern should be prepared and the outline traced on the stock. The work of cutting the upper edge and handhole to the required contour should be done on the jig saw.

Fastening ends to sides with glue and brads, and inserting the partition

Jigsawing the lyre design in the side members.

     With the completion of the various parts, all surfaces should be sandpapered to remove tool marks and to smooth them preparatory to assembly. Assembling of the various members will require glue and 1″ No. 20 brads. Surfaces that butt against one another should have glue applied to them before the pieces are joined. Any excess glue forced from the joints when the brads are driven should be immediately wiped off with a damp cloth.

     The side members should first be set between the end members and secured with brads. The bottom member is next set in place and secured to the end members as well as to the lower edge of the side members. The partition is finally placed in position and secured to the end and bottom members.

     If the work is to have an enamel finish, a coat of shellac should be applied first; then when dry, it should be sanded with No. 4/0 sandpaper. The enamel is applied over this filler coat of shellac. If the work is stained, the stain should be applied directly to the wood. Several coats of shellac, varnish or lacquer over the stain will complete the job. If plywood has been used and a stained or natural finish has been applied, the exposed end grain can be subdued by applying several coats of flat black enamel to these surfaces.

CONTEMPORARY BOOKCASE and DESK COMBINATION

Its expensive, custom-built look commends this useful combination piece to the home craftsman. It provides space not only for writing materials and a row of books, but also for a number of current magazines

THE clean lines of contemporary furniture are carried out in the design of this combination bookcase and desk. The lower sections provide space for current issues of magazines. Adornment is accomplished by the use of matched veneer on the drop front and cross-band veneer on the forward edges of all vertical and horizontal members. The pull on the desk front is a slightly concave brass disk.

     Choice of woods will depend to a great extent on the amount of veneering to be done. If facilities are available, all exposed surfaces should have veneers applied to them after the unit has been constructed. If equipment to handle work of this size is not available, then the top and side members should be made of veneered core stock of the required thickness and faced with a suitable light-colored veneer.

     If plywood or core stock veneer is chosen, the face veneers should be light maple or birch. If solid stock is to be used, it should be the same as the face veneers mentioned.

     The construction should be started with the side members as shown in Fig. Two pieces 3/4″ thick, 12″ wide and 43 3/8″ long will be required. A 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut along the inside face of the back edge to take the back panel.

     All the shelves are to be housed in gains cut across the inside face of the side members. A dado head set up in the bench saw can be used to cut these, or they may be cut by hand. If a dado saw is used, the cuts may be made entirely across the panel with the exception of the gain that is to take the desk shelf. The crossband veneer will cover the forward end of the joint. The gain that is to take the bottom rail and the mortise for the desk shelf rail are laid out as indicated, then cut with a chisel.

     The top, Figs. 7 and will require a piece 3/4″ × 12″ × 30″. A 3/8″ × 3/4″ rabbet is cut on the underface along both ends to fit the side members. A 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut on the underface along the back edge to take the back panel.

     Upper and lower shelves will require two pieces 3/4″ × 11 3/4″ × 29 1/4″. The bottom is 3/4″ × 11 1/2″ × 29 1/4″, the desk shelf, 3/4″ × 11″ × 29 1/4″. The forward edge of the latter is cut at an angle of 45° as shown in Fig. The upper partition shown in Figs. 2 and 7 will require one piece of 3/4″ × 11 3/4″ × 8 1/2″, while the lower partitions are made of two pieces 3/4″ × 11 3/4″ × 9″.

     The partitions are housed in dadoes cut across the upper face of the bottom member, in gains cut across the faces of the lower shelf and in dadoes across the underface of the desk shelf as shown in Fig. Each partition member has a rabbet cut on both ends near the forward edge as shown in Fig.

     The bottom rail will require a piece 3/4″ × 2 1/4″ × 29 1/4″. A 1/2″ × 3/4″ rabbet is cut along the inside face on the upper edge to take the bottom member. Tenons are cut on each end as in Fig. The desk-shelf rail shown in Figs. 6 and 8 is 3/4″ × 2 1/2″ × 29 1/4″. A concave groove is cut along the upper face of this member on a radius of 1 1/16″ as in Fig. The purpose is to allow for the swinging of the drop front. The cut may be made on the bench saw, then cleaned out with a gouge. Rabbets are cut on the ends at the forward edge as shown in Fig. The forward edge comes flush with the side panels.

     The parts should now be trial fitted and assembled. If all fit properly, the work can be taken apart, then reassembled after applying glue to all butting surfaces. Bar clamps should be applied and corners checked immediately for squareness.

     The back is made of 1/4″ plywood having at least one face veneered to match the inner face of the side members. This panel is cut 29 1/4″ × 41 5/8″. It is glued and nailed in place.

     The desk drop is 3/4″ × 14″ × 28 1/2″. The lower edge is beveled at an angle of 45° as shown in Figs. 6 and Desk hinges, lid supports and friction catches are applied as shown in Fig. This hardware should be installed before any veneering is applied to the outer faces of the cabinet. The stop strip shown in Fig. 6 is fastened to the underface of the upper shelf 3/4″ from the forward edge. After the work is checked for free movement and fit, the hardware can be removed.

     The legs will require four pieces of 2 1/4″ square stock 13″ long. The legs are to be set into two cleats made of 1 1/2″ × 4″ stock 11 1/4″ long as shown in Fig. The mortises in the cleats are to be 1 1/2″ square. They are cut at an angle of 103° to the face as shown in Figs. 7 and

     The legs have tenons cut on one end as shown in Fig. 5 and are tapered on all sides from 1 1/4″ at the lower end to 2 1/4″ at the shoulder of the tenon. The corners are rounded slightly. The completed legs are glued in the cleats; then the cleats are secured with glue and wood screws.

     The choice of veneers depends on individual taste. A light finish can be obtained with harewood. The desk drop should have a diamond-matched design of veneer worked out and glued to the outer face. Veneer is applied to the outer faces of the side members and then to the top member. The cross band veneer on the forward edges is applied last.

     Finishing the piece requires the application of several coats of clear lacquer. Each coat should be rubbed down with No. 4/0 sandpaper after the coat has dried.

     The pull, Fig. is made of brass. The large disk can have its outer face made concave on the lathe. To do this, a hollow chuck is prepared from a piece of 3/4″ stock mounted on a faceplate. The disk is forced into the chuck; then with the aid of a tungsten-carbide tipped lathe chisel, the disk is shaped concave. A length of brass rod is soldered to the back of the disk. A hole to take a 10-24 machine screw is drilled and tapped in the center. The completed pull is cleaned and polished on a buffing wheel, then given a coat of lacquer.

MODERN CORNER SHELF UNIT Serves Many Purposes

It can be used as a corner cabinet . . . as a decorative end piece for bookshelves . . . at one or both ends of a studio couch . . . and, made in pairs, to flank a fireplace or form a room divider

Interior decorators prize pieces like this . . . so why don’t you build one?

IT IS no wonder that modern furniture of the type illustrated above has become so popular. A corner shelf unit of this kind can be used in many ways in different settings. It looks well by itself, yet can be combined harmoniously with other furniture.

     Because of the simplicity of the design, the construction is comparatively easy. If the finish is to be a colored lacquer or enamel, a close-grained wood should be selected. Pine may be used, but the harder woods such as birch or maple will be found more satisfactory.

     A basic unit of this type can be used as suggested in the various sketches. It is ideally suited as a means for separating dining area from the living room as shown in the lower right-hand sketch.

     Two complete units, constructed as opposites, can be used to flank a fireplace as shown in the upper right-hand sketch. They are particularly effective when used to flank a fireplace that projects any distance into the room.

     The upper left-hand sketch shows a pair of units flanking a sofa, but when used to flank a studio couch, they tend to create the illusion of a sofa. The lower left-hand sketch shows their use as sectional bookcases set against a wall. When used in this manner, one or more straight units without the corner section can be made up to increase the overall area to be covered.

     There should be no difficulty in constructing an independent straight unit from the drawing shown in Fig. While this section of the completed unit as shown in this figure lists the shelf lengths as 16″, they may be increased up to 30″ if so desired, but it is inadvisable to increase the length of the shelves beyond this dimension because they would be likely to sag when books were placed on them.

     The complete unit is actually made in two sections as shown in Figs. 5 and The first section to be constructed is the corner unit as shown in Fig. This section will require two uprights made of 3/4″ stock, one being 7 3/4″ wide while the other one measures 7 1/2″. The length of both uprights is 34 1/2″. The location of the shelves should be established on the inside face of both these members, using the dimensions shown in Fig.

     As shown in Figs. 1 and the shelves of the side unit are to set in dadoes cut across the face of one of these uprights. These dadoes are laid out on the face of the 7 1/2″ piece, then cut to a depth of 1/4″, using a 3/4″ dado head on the bench saw. To provide for the back panel as shown in Fig. a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet is cut along the inner face on the back edge of the 7 3/4″ upright.

     The next members to be made up are the three shelves and top unit. Each piece will require stock 20″ wide and 27″ long.

     This size provides proper grain direction. Figure 4 gives all the necessary dimensions required for the laying out of the three shelves. The top member of this unit is laid out as in the top view, Fig.

     After the shelves and the top unit have been cut to shape, additional work will have to be done on the top member. As shown in Fig. a 1/4″ × 1/2″ rabbet will have to be cut along the rear edges on the underside to take the back panel. Rabbets 1/2″ deep and 3/4″ wide will have to be cut across the ends of the top member to fit over the uprights. This completes the necessary work on the shelves and top member.

     The curved apron shown in Fig. 3 will require a piece of stock 2 1/2″ thick, 5″ wide and 18″ long. As noted in the drawing, it may be necessary to glue several pieces of 3/4″ stock together to produce a piece of the required thickness. This piece is laid out as shown in Fig. then cut to shape on the band or jig saw. The curved surface which is to be exposed should be finished smooth on the drum sander or dressed with a spokeshave.

     The corner unit may now be assembled. The first step in assembling is to secure the curved apron to the underside of the bottom shelf with glue and eightpenny finishing nails. The uprights are fastened to the various shelf members with the same size finishing nails as shown in Fig. The top member is fastened to the upright with sixpenny finishing nails and glue. The smaller back panel is a piece of 1/4″ plywood, 18 5/8″ wide and 34 1/2″ long. The panel is set in place and fastened to the upright shelf members and top member with sixpenny finishing nails. All nails should be set so that filler can be applied to cover the heads.

     The side unit shown in Fig. 6 consists of three shelves, an upright, a top member and an apron. The end upright will require a piece of 3/4″ stock, 7 3/4″ wide and 34 1/2″ long. The location of the shelf members should be established on the inside face of this upright. A more accurate layout of these locations can be obtained by transferring marks from the dadoes previously cut in the corner unit rather than using the dimensions as in Fig.

     Each shelf member will require 3/4″ stock, 7 1/2″ wide and 16″ long. The end uprights will have to be dadoed as shown in Fig. 1 to take the shelf members. The shelves are fastened to the end uprights with glue and eightpenny finishing nails, then this section is joined to the corner unit as shown in Fig. Glue should be applied to the dadoes before the shelves are set in place. Bar clamps should be used to draw the shelves tightly into the dadoes.

     The top member will require a piece of 3/4″ stock 7 3/4″ wide and 16 5/8″ long. A 1/4″ × 1/2″ rabbet is cut along the back edge on the under face to take the back panel. A 1/2″ × 3/4″ rabbet is cut along the outer end on the under face to fit over the end upright as shown in Fig. The other end of this top member has a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet cut along the upper face as shown in the same figure to fit into the upright of the corner unit.

     The front apron is a piece of 3/4″ stock 2 1/2″ wide and 15 1/2″ long. The top member and apron are fastened in their respective places with glue and sixpenny finishing nails. Figure 7 shows the top member being set in place. The back panel shown in Fig. 8 extends across both sections. This panel is a piece of 1/4″ plywood 34 5/8″ wide and 34 1/2″ long. It is set in place and fastened to the various members with sixpenny finishing nails. All nails should be set and the holes filled.

     Finishing of the unit should be done with lacquer or enamel in whatever color is desired. If enamel is to be used, the work may either be shellacked or given an enamel undercoat. After this coat has hardened, it should be sanded smooth with a fine sandpaper. The enamel may either be brushed or sprayed. If lacquer is used, a lacquer sealer should be applied first. Lacquer is best applied with spray equipment and in the absence of such equipment it is advisable to do the finishing with enamel.

Bookcase Any Beginner Can Build

Although made with nailed joints in the simplest way, this attractive piece of furniture is a far cry from ordinary hammer-and-saw carpentry

SIMPLE as is the construction of this bookcase, it is an attractive piece of furniture that can stand unabashed alongside much more pretentious designs. That is because its proportions are good and it rests on a decorative base, the curves of which are repeated in an ornamental apron across the top.

     White pine, whitewood or any good, clear softwood may be used for all parts but the back panel, which should be plywood or hardboard.

     The base proper consists of two sides 3/4″ × 7 3/4″ × 43″, a top 3/4″ × 7 3/4″ × 24″ and four shelves 3/4″ × 7 1/2″ × 22 1/2″. Cut a 1/4″ × 3/8″ rabbet along one edge of each side piece and the top member as shown to receive the 1/4″ thick back panel. Also cut a 3/8″ × 3/4″ rabbet along each end of the top where it is to fit over the side pieces.

     Before assembling these pieces, mark the location of the shelves carefully on the side pieces. Square lines across the inside face of each to correspond to the dotted lines on the perspective working drawing. Carry these lines lightly across the front edge of each piece. Then, on the outside face of each, square lines across exactly in the center of each 3/4″ space as guide lines for driving the nails.

How the rabbeted top board is set in place after shelves and side pieces are assembled

     Hold one of the shelves end up in the vise; apply glue to the end. Place one of the sides on this shelf. Use the guide lines on the face of the side member to locate properly. Keep the forward edge of the shelf flush with forward edge of side. Drive four eightpenny (2 1/2″ long) finishing nails. Repeat the process with the other three shelves; then add the other side piece. Use try square or steel square to check for squareness. The top is next glued and nailed with fourpenny (1 1/2″) finishing nails. Set all nailheads well below the surface. Fasten the back panel, which is 1/4″ × 23 1/4″ × 43″, in the rabbets.

Laying the back, which is plywood or hardboard, in the rabbets in side pieces and top

     The ornamental apron requires a piece 3/4″ × 2″ × 22 1/2″, but leave it a trifle long for fitting. Make a full-size pattern by using 1″ squares, and mark and cut the wood. Mark the exact length from the bookcase itself, and glue and nail the apron flush with the front edge of the top.

     In the same way make the front member of the base, which is 3/4″ × 3″ × 24 3/4″, and miter both ends as shown. The side pieces are 3/4″ × 3″ × 8 1/8″ and each is mitered at one end. Two triangular corner braces also are cut as shown. The base unit is then assembled with glue and nails and fastened to the bookcase with 1 1/4″ No. 12 flathead screws through the corner blocks.

     If desired, a thin, beaded 3/4″ wide molding may be applied to the front edges.

     Fill all nail holes, sandpaper the piece thoroughly and finish with one coat of enamel undercoater and two coats or enamel.

Base, above, is constructed as a separate unit and attached to the bookcase with screws

One-Piece MAGAZINE RACK

Steps in making the rack are shown below. First, the board is cut into three pieces at a 45° angle. Then holes are drilled at right angles into the beveled edges to take the two dowels which form the centrally located pivots The dowels are glued in the blind holes in the sidepieces, but are held in the holes in the base member by means of wood screws and washers (see Fig. 2 above). Each side may then be revolved into position as in Fig. 8

Modern simplicity and the beauty of the wood itself give this piece its distinction, but it has another unique feature. When it is to be shipped or stored away, it folds flat by means of two dowel pivots

THE simple beauty and unique construction of this good-looking magazine holder will have an instant appeal to the craftsman. For the craftsman who intends making these for sale, its collapsible feature is a good point in mailing or shipping the completed racks.

     The holder illustrated is made from 1 1/2″ stock; it could, however, be made from thinner material. Select stock 1 1/2″ × 11″ × 24″ and cut in three pieces, as shown in Figs. 1 and making cuts at a 45° angle. To make the cut, the saw table or arbor is tilted to an angle of 45°.

     The pieces are hinged together with a 1/2″ dowel pivot as shown in Figs. 2 and Care must be exercised in boring the holes for these dowel pivots to see that they are centered accurately. As shown in Fig. the 1/2″ hole is bored in the bevel of each side member on the drill press to a depth of 5/8″. The same size hole is bored through the beveled ends of the bottom member as shown in Fig. In each case, the 1/2″ hole must be square to the bevel. The dowel pins are glued into the blind holes in the side members of the holder, and are fastened to the smaller or bottom section with screws, as shown in Fig. In order that the dowel can be keyed in the bottom member, washers similar to the one shown in Fig. 3 will have to be prepared. A channel will have to be cut in the underface of the bottom member with the aid of a chisel in order to insert the washer. Figure 7 shows the completed assembly. To set up the magazine rack, the side members are revolved around the pivots as shown in Fig. resulting in the rack as shown in Fig.

     The surfaces are finished by sanding carefully and thoroughly, after which they are given a coat of shellac. This coat is rubbed down well and followed with a coat of spar varnish.

Nantucket MAGAZINE RACK

This decorative piece is exceptionally well designed for its purpose. Magazines can be arranged on the shelves according to size so that they are all instantly accessible

WHAT a nuisance it is, trying to get a certain magazine from the bottom of the pile! And the smaller magazines so often get lost between the big ones. With a rack such as this one, however, there is a place for every size magazine. The small, miniature magazines go in the top compartment and the big picture papers at the bottom. The others go in between. The will go crosswise with the backbone outside in the second compartment from the top or it will go in the second compartment from the bottom with the top edge out. On top is a shelf for lamp, flowers or other decorative accessories.

     For construction, white pine, maple, cherry or birch will be found satisfactory. Work should be started by preparing the various members as shown in the bill of materials and labeling them for future reference. It may be difficult to obtain stock of the widths listed, in which case it will be necessary to glue together several pieces of narrower material.

     A full-size pattern of the side members will have to be prepared following the outline given in Fig. With the aid of carbon paper, the outline can be transferred from the pattern to one of the side members, or if desired, the pattern can be glued directly to the stock. The second side member is placed under the first and both fastened together temporarily with 1 1/4″ brads. These brads should be within the waste area. Cut the stock to shape on the jig saw as shown in Fig. If a fine-toothed blade is used, it will eliminate excessive sanding and filing.

     After the side members have been shaped, the location of the various shelves should be established by squaring lines across the inner surface as in Fig. As shown in Fig. a scrap piece of plywood at least as large as the side member should be used when assembling the shelves and the first side member. It will be necessary to establish the shelf locations on one of its faces. The shelves are secured to this plywood with fourpenny finishing nails, and this assembled section is placed on the bench as shown in Fig. The regular side member is now placed on the upper end of the shelf members, then secured to them with fourpenny finishing nails. Keep in mind that the rear edge of each shelf must be located 3/4″ inside the rear edge of the side member as shown in Fig. The nails should be located at the spots where holes are to be bored for the tapered pegs and driven in just far enough to secure the shelf.

     The 5/16″ holes that are to take the pegs should be bored at least 3 1/2″ deep. Before attempting to bore these holes, the pegs should be prepared from straight-grained maple. A minimum of 40 pegs will be required. These are made of stock 3/8″ × 3/8″ × 4″. They need be tapered only on two sides, measuring 3/8″ square at one end and tapering to 1/4″ at the other end. The tapering can be done on the band saw or jig saw, or on the bench saw with a tapering jig.

BILL OF MATERIALS

NOTE: All dimensions are in inches.

The two sides are cut to shape in one operation on the jig saw. They are then fastened to the shelves by boring holes and gluing in square pegs, which are cut off and sanded flush

     As each hole is bored, the pegs are coated with glue and driven with their opposite corners at top and bottom rather than with the sides parallel with the grain. Figure 5 shows some pegs already in place while a hole is being bored for the next peg to be inserted. When all have been inserted, they are cut off almost flush with the surface. The small section projecting must be dressed down with a smooth plane.

     The work is turned upside down, the temporary piece of plywood removed, and the second side member fastened in the same manner. Figure 7 shows a power-driven sander being used to finish the surfaces after they have been dressed.

     The base front requires a full-size pattern following the outline shown in Fig. This pattern may either be traced on the stock or glued directly to it; then the piece is cut on the jig saw. Figure 6 shows the base front being secured to the side members with the same type of peg.

     As shown in Fig. the back member will require jigsawing along the upper and lower edges. Figure 1 has a graphsquare profile from which a full-size pattern of these curves may be developed. The pattern is applied to the stock and the wood cut on the jig saw. The back is fitted between the side members, then secured to each shelf with finishing nails. If the craftsman wishes, wooden pegs may be used in place of nails.

     Finishing the magazine rack is optional, but if it is to be in keeping with the period, it should be given a coat of yellow-red stain commonly called Colonial maple. After the stain is dry, apply a wash coat of shellac mixed with an equal part of alcohol. After the shellac has set, it should be sanded with No. 6/0 finishing paper. This is followed with several coats of clear shellac or varnish, each coat being allowed to set hard before applying the next. After the last coat has set, the work may be rubbed down with pumice stone and oil, followed by a rubbing down with rottenstone and oil, although No. 3/0 steel wool may be substituted for the pumice stone. If rottenstone is used for the final rubbing, it will not be necessary to apply wax to produce a polish. Should the final rubbing be done with steel wool, paste wax should be applied and polished.

Here’s a space-saving home improvement for a wall area that is ordinarily left unused

Window-Sill

SHELF HOLDS PLANTS, BOOKS and MAGAZINES

HOUSES of frame construction invariably have window stools or sills that are so narrow they offer no place for the display of potted plants or bric-a-brac. One method of overcoming this problem is shown in the photograph. The shelf not only provides a wide stool, but contains a space for the storage of magazines and books.

     The top as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 will require a piece of 3/4″ 11 1/2″ stock, either solid or plywood. The length should be equal to that of the present window stool. Since this piece is to replace the present stool, the stool should be removed, as well as the trim under it After the stool has been removed, it can be determined if it will be necessary to bevel the underface of the top member as noted in Fig. If the present stool is beveled, then the identical bevel should be cut on the top member so that it will fit snugly.

     The sweep at the ends of the top member will be determined by the length of the shelf. The length should not exceed 3 ft. as a longer shelf member may have a tendency to sag. The curve can be cut on the band or jig saw, then made smooth on a drum sander.

     Shelf and uprights will require 3/4″ × 9 1/2″ stock. These are cut as shown in the drawing. The shelf is fastened between the uprights with eightpenny finishing nails; then the uprights are fastened to the top member with the same size nails.

     As shown in Fig. the assembled shelf is secured with eightpenny nails driven down through the top member and into the window sill. A single nail driven through the lower end of the upright as shown in Fig. 3 will hold this part of the unit.

     Finishing the shelf should be done in keeping with the rest of the trim.

Double-duty BOOKCASE holds curios, knickknacks

IN EVERY home there are numerous knickknacks and other articles, such as small china statues, photographs, books, pipe racks and photo albums, that look out of place scattered about on tables and elsewhere. If conditions are like this in your house, you will welcome this capacious bookcase. Not only will the evenings and other spare hours you spend in making it be pleasurable, but you will have something useful to show for your effort.

     This bookcase should be constructed of a good, hard cabinet wood, walnut being preferred by most cabinetmakers. For sturdiness, all walnut used should be at least 3/4″ thick. The wood having the best grain should be selected for the drawer front and sides. When the wood is not being worked on, the pieces should be clamped together to prevent warping.

     The construction should begin with the sides. They may be built up as shown in Fig. 5 to save wood. After the pattern has been drawn on the wood, gains are cut as in Fig. 6 where the shelves are to be inserted The dimensions of B, Fig. are the widths of the different shelves, while dimensions A are the lengths of the gains to be cut. A corner is cut from the front ends of each shelf so that when inserted each will fit snugly. This gain construction is used because it presents a more pleasing appearance than a through dado. The shelves are cut and dressed to finished size first, then the gains cut to take their respective shelves. Rabbets 1/4″ × 1/2″ are cut along the inner faces of the side members to take the plywood back, as in Fig.

Durably built of walnut, this fine-looking piece has shelves for ornaments and a capacious drawer for prized odds and ends

Bill of Materials

All dimensions in inches

     The sides are next cut to shape and sanded, preparatory to gluing. Help should be obtained in the gluing operation, whether hot or cold glue is used. Only the four shelves should be glued into the sides at this time. Thick pieces of some hard wood, approximately the length of the sides, should be used as clamp blocks to hold the framework rigid and prevent twisting.

     The front legs, Figs. 1 and are next constructed. Runners may then be added for the drawer slides. However, if added strength is wanted to support the drawer, a simple frame, Fig. may be built of some hard wood. This frame is glued and screwed to both sides and to the front legs. Before the frame is glued together, the screw holes are drilled and countersunk.

     The drawer front, sides, back and bottom are then cut to size. It is suggested that the drawer sides and back be constructed of 1/2″ plywood, and the drawer bottom of 1/4″ plywood. The drawer front must be rabbeted 1/2″ deep and 3/8″ wide on the two ends. This allows the plywood sides to be glued and nailed to the front; it also permits the drawer front to overlap the edges of the case.

     All four sides of the drawer front are rounded as in Fig. 3 to improve appearance. Antique brass or similar drawer pulls may be purchased at any hardware store. Before the finish is applied to the drawer front, the bolt holes are drilled.

     A dado is cut 1/2″ wide and 1/4″ deep, 1/2″ from the back edges of each side, into which the plywood back is inserted. Then a groove 1/4″ wide and 1/4″ deep is cut 1/2″ from the bottom edges of the two sides and 7/8″ from the bottom edge of the drawer front to take the plywood bottom.

     Plywood 1/4″ thick is suggested for the back of the bookcase. This may have the same face veneer as the wood used in the cabinet, or may be birch or gum plywood stained to match the sides and shelves. It is fitted into place, the design for the top edges, Fig. marked on the wood, and the holes for the fastenings spotted and drilled. Either nails or flathead screws may be used. For convenience in finishing, the back and framework should be finished separately, and fastened together only after the last coat of varnish has been applied. After the back has been cut to shape, sanded and stained if necessary, all wood should be sanded with No. 2/0 sandpaper.

     An excellent finish may be obtained by using as many coats of thin white shellac as necessary to fill the pores of the wood, and two or more applications of cabinet varnish to give the wood a hard surface.

Housing an old set in a

New Bookcase-Radio

Almost any table-model receiver, if in good order, can be modernized by throwing away its antiquated looking cabinet and placing the chassis and speaker in the upper section of a neat but simply made floor stand

MODERNIZING the old-style table radio which is still in working order can be done by the home craftsman at relatively small cost. The shelves of the new case are set into the side members as shown in Fig. and rabbets and gains are cut as indicated to take the front panel.

     The panel is 1/4″ plywood as shown in Fig. The old radio cabinet, illustrated in the small photo, can be used as a pattern for cutting the openings for the dial and control shafts. The speaker should be built into a removable frame as shown in Fig. To reduce vibration, this frame should be screwed to the shelf.

     Locate the radio before marking and cutting the grille opening. A special ring is then turned on the lathe as in Fig. 2 to form a molding. The tapestry should be stretched and tacked down on a flat board. Glue is applied to the back of the ring, which is then laid on the tapestry. After the glue has dried, remove the excess cloth by cutting closely around the ring, which can then be inserted in the panel opening. Glue and clamp until dry. Shellac and rubbed-effect varnish complete the project.

TWO WALL SHELVES CUT OUT ON JIG SAW

IF ANY single power-driven machine found in the home workshop can be classed as a complete tool, that machine is the jig saw. It is the one machine that can be used to cut out, shape and finish wood to produce many useful articles for the home. The hanging shelves shown in the photographs are samples of work that can be turned out with this machine. The wall shelf has its sides ornamented by a pierced Gothic design, while the corner shelf has sides ornamented by a pierced geometric design.

     Plywood should be used for construction of either shelf. It need not exceed 1/4″ thickness, and if possible should be faced with one of the better cabinet woods such as maple, birch, walnut, mahogany or oak.

     The Gothic wall shelf requires two pieces of plywood 1/4″ × 6″ × 21″ for the sides, one piece 1/4″ × 4 7/8″ × 9″ for the top shelf and two pieces 1/4″ × 5 3/4″ × 9″ for the bottom and center shelves. All of these pieces can be cut from a piece 24″ square. The next step is the preparation of a full-size pattern of the side member.

     Examination of the drawing will reveal a series of marks along the edges and ends. The purpose of these marks is to aid in laying out graph squares on this drawing. With a sharp pencil and a straightedge, the points should be connected from side to side and from end to end with light lines. To make the large pattern, a sheet of wrapping paper 6″ × 21″ should be divided into 1/2″ graph squares. The outline of the original pattern is enlarged on the pattern paper. The completed pattern is secured to one of the side members with rubber cement. The long side of the pattern should be lined up with the edge of the stock.

     The next step is to secure together the two side members so they may be cut at the same time on the jig saw. This is done by driving several 1/2″ brads within areas to be discarded.

Full-Size pattern of Gothic wall shelf is cemented to plywood panel large enough for one side. This side is then fastened to other panel, brads entering areas to be discarded. Both are cut at one time on the jig saw

     In order to work out the pierced design on the jig saw small holes for passage of the blade are bored within each area that is to be removed. Use of a fine-toothed blade will eliminate a considerable amount of sanding later.

     When sawing has been completed, the pattern can be stripped off the stock and the faces of the side members sanded with No. 1/2″ and 0 sandpaper. The edges can be sanded smooth on the jig saw with a special-shaped sanding attachment shown in the photograph. The sharp corners can be completed by hand with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a triangular piece of wood. Final sanding of the faces of side members and shelf members is done with No. 2/0 sandpaper.

     The shelves are fastened to the side members with glue and 1″ No. 18 brads. The brads should be set with a nail set. The completed shelf may be stained or left natural. A coat of thin white shellac should be applied. When dry, it should be sandpapered lightly with No. 4/0 sandpaper. Two additional coats of clear rubbing varnish or shellac should follow. Each coat should be sanded when dry.

     The procedure to follow in making the corner shelf is the same as outlined for the wall shelf. The sides require one piece 1/4″ × 6″ × 18″ and one piece 1/4″ × 6 1/4″ × 18″. It will be noticed that one of these side pieces is 1/4″ wider than the other. This is necessary to allow for the butting of one against the other at the corner. The shelves can be made of two pieces of 1/4″ × 6″ × 6″ stock with the outer edge finished at a 6″ radius.

Interior sawed edges of side members require sanding. This work is done quickly with half-round sander fitted to jig saw. Corners are reached by hand. Shelves are nailed to sides

Graceful Lotus-Flower WALL BRACKET

To have your jigsaw work admired—and to have it sell well if you are making it for profit—you have to choose designs of outstanding merit. This wall bracket is a fine example

A STYLIZED lotus flower is the background of this bud-vase bracket. A small shelf supported by a delicately shaped brace provides the surface for the vase.

     The back and shelf are made of 1/4″ plywood while the brace requires 3/8″ stock. A piece 7 1/4″ × 17 1/2″ is required for the back. The shelf can be cut from stock 5″ square. The brace is made from a piece 1 1/2″ × 6″.

     Full-size patterns of the brace and back members should be prepared on suitable paper. Graph squares will aid materially when copying the designs on these patterns. The shape of the shelf may be laid out directly on the stock with the aid of a compass and a rule, or a paper pattern of this piece can be prepared for gluing to the stock.

Even as it is being cut (below), the unusual beauty of this design is apparent. Right, the parts and how they go together

     The patterns may be secured to the stock with thin glue, rubber cement or shellac. The back member requires piercing of the stock on the jig saw. In order that the blade of the saw can be passed through, it will be necessary to bore a 1/8″ hole within each area that is to be pierced. A fine-toothed blade should be used when sawing so that the need for sanding can be eliminated. The brace and shelf are merely cut to the outline of the pattern.

     If rubber cement was used for attaching the paper patterns, they can be peeled from the wood before sandpapering the faces. If shellac or thin glue was used, the patterns should be removed by sanding.

     The shelf should be secured to the back with glue and 1″ No. 18 brads, then the brace secured to the shelf and back with glue and 3/4″ No. 18 brads.

     The completed work may be stained and lacquered with clear lacquer. If the shelf is to be painted, apply a coat of shellac. When this is dry, follow with a coat of enamel in desired color.

     The shelf may be hung by driving two small screw eyes into the upper edge of the back member and placing two small picture hooks in the wall to line up with the eyes.

CORNER What-Not

The Jigsawed Frame Made of Mahogany Plywood Is an Adaptation of a Fine Colonial Mirror and the Interior Is Painted Pastel Blue to Provide a Gay Background for Display of Bric-a-Brac

Plywood is used throughout for the cabinet. At right, all four shelves have been laid out on a single piece with allowance for a saw kerf between. Back panels are then nailed to shelves

CORNER shelves holding a collection of prized bric-a-brac help to brighten and add to the general appearance of the living room. The corner what-not shown in the photograph has a gratefully shaped scroll design extending from the upper and lower extremes of the cabinet in a manner that suggests a fine Colonial mirror. It is this novel decorative treatment that gives the unit its charm and produces a perfect frame for miniatures and treasures you wish to display.

     Plywood is used throughout for its construction. The upper and lower scroll members as well as the trim should be 1/4″ plywood faced with mahogany or walnut. If the shelves and back members are to be stained or finished natural they should also be faced with the same wood that is used for the other members. On the other hand, if the shelves and background are to be painted, any 1/4″ plywood faced with a hardwood such as birch, maple or poplar may be used.

     Construction of the what-not is started by cutting out the shelves. These parts are cut from a piece of plywood 7 5/8″ wide. Four shelf members will be required and in order to reduce waste to a minimum they should be marked off as shown in the first photograph before they are cut on the bench saw. When laying out the shelves remember to allow enough waste between each piece to take care of the saw kerf. This space will vary with each saw blade and can be determined by making a trial cut on a piece of scrap stock and measuring the actual kerf. It should be noticed that the cuts are made with the cutoff guide set at an angle of 45 degrees. After all four shelves have been cut out, the two that are to be used for the top and bottom of the case should be cut to a width of 7 3/8″ by removing 1/4″ from the front edge.

In order that the mahogany-faced plywood strips that go over the edges of the cabinet will rest flush, the edges must be planed as at left. Notches for insetting the two scrolled members are being cut in cabinet in next photo

     The back members are made of two pieces of stock one of which is cut to a finished size of 11 1/4″ × 20″ to overlap the back edge of the other member which should measure 11″ × 20″. The location of the shelves can now be established on the back members according to dimensions shown in the main drawing. The lines which locate the shelves on the back members should be drawn with a trysquare and should match one another on each member. The shelves are fastened to the 11″ back member first, using 1 1/4″ brads driven through the back and into the edge of the shelf. When all shelves have been fastened to this one piece, the other back member can be fastened in the same manner.

     After the case has been assembled, the front edge of the back members will have to be beveled at an angle of 45 degrees so that the scrolled upper and lower panels as well as the trim can be applied. This bevel may be cut on the bench saw with the table or blade tilted at an angle of 45 degrees, or the bevels may be cut by hand with a block plane as shown in the photograph. If a plane is used, the planing should be done from both ends toward the middle in order not to break the corners.

Photo, right, shows frame strip being sawed; curved ends will later be cut on jig saw. Filler blocks go on back of the cabinet

At far left the upper and lower decorative scrolls are laid out to conserve plywood. Jig saw cuts them to shape. They fit the notched corners of assembled cabinet

     The forward edge of the back numbers must be notched at each end, as shown in the detail sketch, in order to take the decorative upper and lower panels. These notches extend down from the top for a distance of 3 7/16″ while those at the lower end extend upward for 3 7/8″. In both cases the notches are to be 1/4″ deep or equivalent to the thickness of the panel which is set in. It should be noticed that the depth of the notch will line up with the front edge of top and bottom shelf members. The cut may be partially made on the bench saw as shown in the photograph, but it must be completed with a hand saw. This operation completes the case.

     The ornamental top and bottom panels are the next members to be made. A piece of 1/4″ plywood faced with walnut or mahogany should be used. If care is exercised when placing the patterns of these members on the stock a piece 18″ wide and 18″ long will be sufficient. Full-size patterns of these members must be drawn on a sheet of tracing paper. The use of 1″ graph squares will aid in reproducing the outline in full size. Since the contour on one side of each panel is the same as on the other, the patterns need be only half patterns. When completed, the outline is transferred to the stock by means of carbon paper. In the photograph showing these members being cut, the patterns are so located as to use as much of the stock as possible and thereby reduce the amount of waste.

     After the patterns have been traced on the stock, the cutting of the panels can be undertaken. This work should be done on a jig saw fitted with a fine-tooth blade. Use of a fine blade is important, as the work is such that filing or sandpapering cannot be done readily. A blade having fine teeth will produce a finished cut that will make sandpapering or filing unnecessary. When completed, the face of the panels should be sandpapered thoroughly with No. 00 sandpaper. They are set in place on the case and fastened with glue and 3/4″ brads. Brads which hold the panels to the back members should be located and slanted so they will enter these back members without danger of having them break out through either face.

     After the panels have been attached, the next step is to trim the inside edge of each one to conform with the slant of the back members. This work is done with a file. It can be seen in the drawing that the inside corner of the upper panel is rounded. If this corner is made square, a space will appear after the trim is applied. The top and side trim are made of pieces of 1/4″ × 1 1/8″ plywood strips. The bottom trim is made of 1/4″ × 5/8″ stock. It will be noted from the dimensions given that the grain of the face veneer runs the short way. The stock for the trim should be cut to the required lengths and must be mitered at the ends as shown in the drawing. The side and top trim strips are shaped as shown at the point where they meet, and the completed strips should measure 5/8″ as indicated. The jig saw is used to cut the curved portion of the trim, whereas the bench saw is used to cut the straight edges as shown in the photograph. The trim is fastened in place with glue and 3/4″ brads. Brad heads are set and holes are filled with a wood filler which matches the color of the stain that has been decided upon.

     The corner blocks must be attached to the back panels as shown in the drawing and photograph in order to compensate the cabinet and make it square with the extending ornament. Small bracket hangers are attached to the upper corner blocks. Finish may be natural with clear lacquer, varnish or white shellac, or stain may be used prior to the application of lacquer.

Collector’s Hanging Shelf Has Frosted Plastic Ends

New Method of Decorating Crystal-Clear Plastics Is Responsible for the Attractive Design on the Ends Of This Shelf. Electric Tool Is Used to Frost Surface

COLLECTORS of small bric-a-brac deserve a special shelf where they can display treasured pieces to best advantage. Even the tiniest objects will assume importance on this all-plastic hanging shelf which has been designed especially for the collector.

     The plastic required for the shelf should be 3/16″ thick. The parts of the shelf may be made of odd pieces if sufficient material is on hand; otherwise it may be purchased in a single sheet from which a piece 10 5/8″ × 36 1/4″can be cut. All necessary parts can be laid out on this sheet, as shown in Fig. but before the layout is started, it will be necessary to make certain that one long edge of the plastic is perfectly straight. When the plastic is purchased, the faces are protected by masking paper. Under no conditions should this paper be removed until all necessary sawing, trimming and polishing of the edges has been completed. Failure to follow this pre-caution will result in scratched surfaces and require additional buffing.

     The piece obtained may have one perfectly straight long edge, but if this is not the case one of these edges will have to be trued. Truing the edge can be done with a flat file held so that the length of the file is almost parallel to the length of the edge being trued. After this edge has been trued, the work of laying out each piece, as shown in Fig. can be undertaken. All layout lines that are vertical should be drawn with a try square held so the handle fits against the trued edge. All horizontal lines are drawn parallel to this trued edge. An allowance of 1/8″ should be made between the layout of each piece to permit sawing apart and finishing the pieces to required sizes.

     After each piece has been laid out, the stock is cut on a band saw or jig saw which is equipped with a fine-toothed blade having sufficient set to prevent re-knitting of the plastic as it passes beyond the saw. A bench saw can be used if the blade is thin enough to reduce waste to a minimum. Sawing should be done within the limits of the 1/8″ allowance. When the stock has been cut, the edges should be dressed to bring the pieces to finished size.

     Dressing may be done with a file, or it may be done on a sanding disc. In either case the edges must be finished by hand with fine sandpaper held on a sandpaper block. The best abrasive to use for hand finishing is a wet paper; that is, a coated abrasive that will withstand the use of water. The edge of the plastic being sanded, as well as the coated abrasive, should be kept wet during the sanding process. The use of water will keep the plastic cool and will float away the plastic dust. Pieces intended for use as the end members in Fig. 4 do not require edge finishing at this time, as they are to be shaped as shown in the drawing.

     A full-size pattern of the end members should be prepared on graph paper, and the outline should be traced on the masking paper covering the plastic. The pieces are cut to shape on a jig saw as shown in the photograph. The edges are finished with a file and sandpaper.

     Now the edges of all pieces are ready for buffing. A buffing wheel charged with a suitable compound sold for use on plastics should be used. When buffing has been completed, the masking paper can be removed from all pieces except the back member, which must be drilled and slotted as shown in Fig. Surfaces of the finished pieces are washed thoroughly with clean, cold water and mild soap that is free from grit.

     The frosted design on the end members is produced by a vibrating tool, as shown in the photograph. A full-size pattern of the design given in Fig. 6 is placed under the plastic for guidance of the worker in moving the vibrating knife blade within the areas to be frosted. Rapid strokes of the knife make tiny cuts in the plastic surface and produce an overall white frosting.

     Assembly of the shelf will require the use of a jig, as shown in the photograph. Locations of the shelves are marked on a sheet of paper to establish the positions at which several cleats may be fastened to the bench top to hold the shelves in position. Plastic cement is applied to the ends of the shelves and to the points at which the shelves contact the end members. The pieces are placed together and are held in position with clamps as shown in the photograph. Aprons are cemented to the shelves and held by small spring clamps while the cement is given time to set.

     The back has two mounting holes and slots drilled and filed at locations shown in Fig. After this work has been done, the masking paper can be removed so the plastic can be washed. The back piece is attached last to the shelf members and end members, where it is held with plastic cement.

Colonial Dish Shelf Accents Room

Nearly Every Home Can Find a Place Where This Fine Colonial Hanging Shelf Will Add Charm to the Setting

FOR displaying a valued tea set or a special collection of dishes an open-front hanging dish shelf is ideally suited. The shelf shown here has been designed to hold a service for six. If the collection to be displayed is a service for eight, the length of each shelf should be increased by 8″ to accommodate the additional pieces. Any good grade of wood may be used for construction, but walnut, mahogany or cherry will be found best suited.

     The scrolled end members will require two pieces of 11/16″ stock, 5 3/4″ wide and 27 1/4″ long. After the stock has been finished to required size, the mortises to take the tenons on the ends of the shelf members are laid out. As these are through mortises they should be laid out on both faces of each end member. The mortises are to be 11/16″ wide and 1 1/8″ long. The first one is located 1″ from the back edge, and the second one is spaced 1″ beyond the first. When the corners are being cut with a chisel, the cutting should be done from both faces, toward the center of the stock. This method avoids the danger of splitting out the wood on one of the faces.

     The next step is the preparation of a full-size pattern of the scrolled end member. The design is reproduced on 1″ graph squares laid out on a sheet of wrapping paper 6″ wide and 28″ long. When the outline is complete it is traced on one of the end pieces with the aid of carbon paper. Since both end members of the shelf are to be alike, they should be cut and finished to shape as a single unit. The two members can be fastened together temporarily for shaping on the band saw or jig saw by driving 1″ brads in the area to be discarded.

Photos below show shelf being beveled and plate groove being dadoed in the lower shelf

     Sawed edges of the end members are finished smooth with a file and sandpaper. To reach the concave curves of the design a half-round file wrapped with sandpaper will be found extremely useful. Coarse sandpaper such as a No. 1 should be used for preliminary sanding. This operation is followed by the use of No. 0 and then by No. 3/0 sandpaper. After the edges have been sanded, the inside face should be finished with the same grades of sandpaper. The outer face is not to be sandpapered until the shelves have been assembled to these members.

     The shelves require three pieces of stock 1 1/16″ thick, 5 1/4″ wide and 30 3/8″ long. If the unit is to hold a service for eight instead of six, the shelves should be made 38 3/8″ long. After the shelf members have been cut and finished to required size, the next step is to lay out the tenons on both ends of each member. These tenons are to be 11/16″ long and 1 1/8″ wide.

     The forward edge of the lower shelf is to be provided with slots to hold spoons. The slots are spaced 4″ on centers and are laid out from the center of the shelf. They may be cut on the jig saw.

     To give the shelves an appearance of lightness, the forward edge of each shelf is beveled to a thickness of 3/8″. Beveling can be done on the bench saw by tilting the table or saw arbor. A groove for the support of plates and saucers is cut in the upper face of each shelf. This groove should be 1/4″ wide and 1/8″ deep. Cutting is done with a hand router or with a bench saw equipped with a dado head that will cut 1/4″ wide.

     The shelves are assembled to the end members with glue. After clamps have been applied the assembly should be checked for squareness. If the shelves are out of square with the end members, they can be brought into place by shifting the position of one end of each clamp. After the clamps have been removed the outside faces of the end members should be dressed and sandpapered to bring the tenons flush.

     Metal hangers are applied to the upper and lower ends of each end member, as shown in the detail sketch, to provide a means of hanging the shelf. The completed work should be coated with paste filler and should then be stained. Two final coats of white shellac or clear varnish are applied and each is rubbed down with No. 00 steel wool after it has hardened.

Bric-a-Brac Shelf Built in Wall

Plaster and Lath Are Removed to Make Space for Shelf

THE space occupied by studding in an interior wall can sometimes be utilized for a small bookshelf or niche for bric-a-brac. A small area of the wall is cut away to accommodate the assembled shelf.

     To carry out this plan, choose wall space on a partition, or inside wall, where there will be no danger of condensation of moisture. While using a level for a guide, mark off the approximate base line of the proposed opening. Locate the studs by driving a small nail into the plaster at frequent intervals along this line. Although a 2 × 4 stud can be cut away to provide a wider opening, it is much simpler to limit the shelf to the space between two studs.

     With a small chisel, chip away enough plaster, well above the base line, to locate a lath, Let the space between laths determine the location of the top and bottom.

     After cutting away plaster and lath, start work on the bookshelf. Use 3/4″ stock for the frame and shelf. For the back use 1/4″ plywood or wallboard. Make the top and sides 4″ wide. Cut the shelf and bottom 5″ wide. The length of the sides should be equivalent to the height of the opening. The top, bottom and shelf should be l 1/2″ less than the width of the opening. Fasten frame members together with 8-penny nails. Fasten the back to the Starve with 4-peeoy nails. Make the trim of 3/4″a 2 3/4″ stock and apply it to the feast edge of the side and top members.

     Set the completed bookshelf in place and secure to the wall by driving 8-penny finishing nails through the side trim and into the studs. Paint the Interior of the niche in a color that harmonizes with the room.

Split Turnings Finished with Gold Leaf Make Decorative Wall Brackets for Objects of Art

Brackets shown here serve as example of what can be done by the craftsman who extends the scope of his work to include either of the two methods of gold-leaf application for decorating turnings and carvings

WALL brackets used as supports for small sculpture or fine porcelains are very useful in carrying out the decorative scheme of a room. They are usually designed so that the form is in harmony or related to the piece that the bracket will support on the wall. As this article is to deal with the method of obtaining a gilded finish for such brackets, a simple form of turned bracket, instead of the carved variety, has been designed. The same gold-leafing processes apply to all forms of brackets, mirrors, picture frames, jewel boxes and other craft projects.

     To make these brackets in pairs, cut four 3″ circles of 3/4″ hardwood on the band saw. Cut two circles 5″, one 6″, one 7″ and one 8″. Center each circle and drill a small hole. Glue and clamp after inserting a stiff wire through the center of each disc to align the centers. When the glue has set, turn the block in the lathe so that the shape will match a cardboard template enlarged from the graph square drawing. Sand the turning before removing it from the lathe. After turning, cut through the center of the piece to form two pieces. Sand the back of each bracket.

     The art of gilding has long been a trade secret. This article can give a description of the materials and processes used but cannot, of course, convey the skill required in handling the metal leaf on intricate work. The matter of laying the leaf will be discussed, but the more simple application of the imitation gold burnishing powders is recommended as an introduction to the craft. With careful work, results will be satisfactory. Much depends upon the proper foundation for the powders or metal leaf. In either case this preparation of the work is the same for gilding on a wood base.

     Foundation for gilding is composed of a first coat of glue size on the raw wood. This coat must dry for at least 1 1/2″ hours. Then come two coats of whiting, an hour between each coat. The glue that is used is known as Cooper’s glue and is a vegetable glue of white flakes. To make the pure glue place 1/2 lb. of flakes in a can. Shake down well and cover with water. Let stand over night, then heat in glue pot or double boiler until smooth. The size consists of 10% pure glue, 10% wood alcohol, 80% water. The wood alcohol acts as a drier. The whiting solution consists of 16% pure glue, 84% water, with enough bolted or Spanish whiting added to make a thick cream about the consistency of evaporated milk. A little alcohol should be added to act as a drier. Both of these solutions are applied to the wood hot; that is, from containers standing in hot water. After the whiting has been brushed on and thoroughly dried, the brackets should be carefully sanded with No. 2/0 sandpaper.

The wood turning is sawed apart to yield two brackets. A coat of size, then whiting, as shown below, prepare the surface

Photo at right shows an agate burnisher in use on the wall bracket. A rich, glistening surface will result. It could not be obtained with ordinary bronzing materials. Clear lacquer completes the bracket

Photos at left show the whiting coats being sanded after they have dried, and the gold burnishing powder, mixed with glue size, being applied with brush. An in between coat of gold size is also necessary in preparing the surface for adhesion of gold powder

     The next coat consists of red gold size. This size is a very fine-grained clay called Armenian bole. It can be bought from a paint dealer or he can order it. To a small quantity of this clay add 5% glue size and apply to the sanded whiting with a 1″ ox-hair brush. A good brush is essential for laying this coat of size. Rough places can be smoothed out with a little hot water on the brush. Try to get just as smooth a coat as possible.

     If parts are to be burnished, a second coat of gray gold size is applied to those parts. This size is obtained from the same source and is made in the same way as red size. The imitation gold burnishing powders are ground much finer than the ordinary bronzing powders. The powders must be finely ground for burnishing. Nothing else will do. Your paint dealer will get them for you. They are to be had in pale gold, Roman gold and other shades of gold.

     To prepare burnishing powders for use, mix with a little glue size. The powders in this form are then applied to the work. It is important to cover the surface well with this coat. The burnishing is done with an agate burnisher by rubbing the parts lightly. A coat of transparent lacquer is applied after the burnishing operation.

     For the application of gold leaf or imitation gold leaf give the work the same preparation. After the red gold size is applied, a coat of oil size is added. Some brands of oil size require 12 hours to set before they are ready for the application of the leaf. In any event the size should be tacky. The metal leaf may be tipped on directly from the book, or tissue package, and smoothed down by a bit of cotton, or the leaf may be applied with a gilder’s brush. Another method of handling the leaf is to make a small frame 6″ × 6″ covered with bolting cloth. The metal leaf is transferred to a block from the book. The frame is drawn across the hair of the operator to create static electricity which picks up the metal leaf on the block. The leaf is now transferred to the work. The suction of the size on the base pulls the leaf from the frame. Appliances are now manufactured which greatly aid in the process. One consists of a circular box which contains the gold leaf in rolls. These are obtainable in various widths from narrow strips up to 1″ width. The leaf is fed to the work through a narrow slit in the roll container. This method prevents much loss of time and waste of gold leaf.

     The art of gilding in the old manner is a highly specialized trade and the laying of gold leaf requires much skill and practice. It is a great thing for the craftsman to know about because of its many applications, especially in the field of reproductions. For the average craftsman the use of imitation gold powders serves the purpose very well and the results are most satisfactory. Modern methods of application such as leaf in rolls certainly simplify the job for the amateur.

     When the gilding of the brackets has been completed two metal plates should be secured to the back of each bracket to aid in hanging it on the wall.

Gold leaf in sheet form may be used instead of gold powder. Thin leaves are pulled to bracket by suction of sized surface

ANTIQUE

It Takes but a Few Hours for the Modern Home Workshop to Duplicate this Handsome Little Wall Shelf that Originated Back in the 18th Century When the Mythical Sea Horse Motif Was a Favorite Design Among Colonial Cabinetmakers

WHILE this design dates back to an antique shelf popular in the 18th Century, its usefulness in holding bric-a-brac treasures or a few current books will never be outdated. Walnut, cherry and maple are suitable woods for construction. The shelf illustrated was made of 5/8″ walnut.

     The sides are made of two pieces of stock 7″ wide and 22″ long. The dadoes into which the shelves fit are located on the inside faces of these pieces at points shown in the drawing. The recesses are cut 7/16″ deep with a 5/8″ dado head. The dado which takes the upper shelf should be 3″ long while the one for the lower shelf should be 6 1/2″ long. As these are stopped dadoes it will be necessary to clean out the forward corners by hand, using a chisel and hand router.

     With the completion of the dadoes, the two side members can be fastened together with 1″ brads in order that they be 3″ wide while the lower shelf should measure 6 1/2″ wide. These shelves are glued and set in clamps.

Shelves are slipped into dadoes from back edge of side members as shown. Photo at far right shows block of wood clamped to saw table to limit length of cut for dadoes. Panels are jigsawed afterwards

     Conventional finishing methods are in order. The wood may be left natural if protected with several coats of white shellac, clear varnish or clear lacquer. Each coat should be rubbed down with No. 00 steel wool. If the shelf is to be stained this coat should be applied first. Two metal hangers are added last.

CANDLESTICK PATTERN ENRICHES HANGING SHELVES

Same design used for making both of these styles. Plywood for all parts

These Jigsawed Wall Shelves Made in Two Styles Offer a Wide Variety of Decorative Arrangement

THERE are dozens of decorative possibilities in the two styles of hanging shelves illustrated. They are easy to make and will be a worthy addition to any room. The wall shelf may be used by itself or in combination with two corner shelves, one on each side. The corner shelf may be used separately or two may be placed side by side to form a wall shelf.

     The material used in construction is 1/4″ plywood. Six pieces of stock are required for the wall shelf; two pieces 6″ × 12″ for the sides, one piece 6″ × 7″ for the lower shelf, 4 1/4″ × 7″ for the upper shelf, 1 1/4″ × 7″ for the gallery and 1 1/2″ × 7″ for the apron. One edge of the gallery and apron, as well as the forward edges of the shelves, are shaped as shown. A full-size pattern of the scrolled edge should be enlarged and traced on each piece. The outline is cut on a jig saw and sawed edges are smoothed with file and sandpaper. A pattern of the candlestick shelf ends must also be made up and traced on the stock. The end members may be fastened together temporarily with 1/2″ brads so that both pieces can be cut and sanded at the same time.

     The corner shelf requires four pieces of material. Two pieces are for the sides which are like the wall shelf except that one side piece must be 1/4″ wider than the other so that it will overlap at the corner. The other two pieces are for the shelves. Square stock 5 1/2″ × 5 1/2″ is needed for the lower shelf and 4″ × 4″ for the upper shelf.

     Each piece should be sandpapered thoroughly before the parts are assembled with glue and brads. Paint or stain as desired.

SIMPLE Carving DECORATES WALL BRACKET

The Tricky Woven Design That Makes This Wall Bracket So Attractive Is Accomplished by Jig Saw and Carving Tool

THE FEATURE that makes this wall bracket different from all its predecessors is the clever use of a single chisel to create a woven medallion in the center of the apron member. In addition to this unique decorative element the bracket has the usual attraction of any small shelf designed to hang on the wall and display bric-a-brac or a small flower arrangement.

     The shelf is made of a piece of 5/8″ stock, preferably walnut, 5″ wide and 19″ long. A full-size pattern of this member is drawn on a sheet of wrapping paper which has been marked into 1″ graph squares. After the shelf pattern has been traced on the stock the shelf is cut to shape on the band saw or jig saw and the curved edge is dressed with a spokeshave.

     The apron is made of a piece of 5/8″ stock 5 1/2″ wide and 19″ long. As in construction of the shelf, a full-size pattern of the apron must be drawn and then traced on the stock. It is advisable to lay out on the pattern the lines for the woven design and trace this on the stock at the same time that the outline is being transferred. The apron contour is cut to shape on the band saw or jig saw and the edge is smoothed with the spokeshave. The medallion is cut next. As shown in the detail, the squares of the layout that are marked with a circle are to be cut out. In order to accomplish this cutting on the jig saw a small hole is bored in each marked square. These holes should be large enough to pass the blade of the jig saw.

     The second detail sketch shows how the woven effect is obtained. Dotted lines designate those places where the wood is to be removed to a depth of 1/8″. One photograph shows the actual carving operation while the stock is clamped to the bench top. Before the wood is removed a vertical cut at the dotted lines must first be made with the chisel. The wood can then be chipped out by starting the chisel at the high point and cutting toward the low point where the dotted line was drawn.

     After the carving has been completed the location of the 5/16″ holes which are to take the dowels that join the shelf to the apron should be located and bored. The braces are made of two pieces of 7/8″ stock 2 3/8″ long. The edges of these pieces are cut at an angle of 45° to produce a triangular-shaped block as shown in the drawing. Holes are located in one end of each brace 1/2″ from the upper face. They are bored to a depth of 5/8″ to take dowels 1 1/4″ long and allow for the dowel to project 5/8″ as shown in the drawing. Matching holes are located and bored in the apron to take these dowels. They are placed 1/2″ from the upper edge and 4 1/2″ each side of the center.

First step in making the imitation weave after the apron piece has been cut out to outside shape is the piercing of marked squares

While the apron is clamped to the workbench a chisel is used to cut out small chips and give impression of overlapping strands

     The shelf, apron and braces are sandpapered thoroughly before they are assembled with glue. The completed bracket is hung on the wall with “L” hooks. Provision to take these hooks is made by boring a 1/2″ hole to a depth of 1/2″ in the back edge of the shelf and by boring down from the upper face with a 3/16″ bit until it enters the 1/2″ hole as shown in the sketch.

Two dowels hold shelf and the carved apron together. Extra support for the shelf is given by the triangular brace blocks shown in photo

     The finish consists of one coat of walnut stain and two or three coats of white shellac, varnish or clear lacquer.

WALL BRACKET HANDY FOR SHAVING BOWL

Wooden Turning Made to Hold Standard Shaving Soap Is Supported by a Plastic Bracket Which Is Bent at Top and Notched to Receive Shaving Brush

YOUR bowl of shaving soap and shaving brush can be kept in the bathroom within easy reach and still be out of the way after you construct and install this combination wall holder. The wood bowl is recessed to take a cake of shaving soap while the plastic upright, which serves to secure the unit to the wall, also provides a yoke for hanging the shaving brush.

     The base of the unit is a faceplate turning made of a stock 3/4″ × 4 3/4″ × 4 3/4″. A circle 4 3/4″ in diameter is drawn on one face, and the stock is cut to this rough diameter on the jig saw or band saw. The disc is mounted on a faceplate and turned down to a finished outside diameter of 4 5/8″. A recess of 1/8″ deep and 2 3/4″ in diameter is turned to take the bowl.

     The soap bowl will require a piece of hardwood 1 3/4″ × 4″ × 4″. A circle 4″ in diameter is drawn on one face so the stock can be sawed to a rough diameter. This disc is mounted on a lathe faceplate for turning down to a finished outside diameter of 3 7/8″. The recess should be of such a diameter as to take a cake of standard shaving soap.

     The cover of the bowl is made of 1/2″ stock 3 1/2″ square. The stock should be mounted on a center-screw faceplate having a short screw that will not pass through the wood and damage the chisel.

     The bracket is made of clear plastic 1/4″ × 2″ × 7 3/4″. The outline of this member can be laid out directly on the masking paper of the plastic. After the strip has been cut to shape on the jig saw, the edges are sanded and buffed. A wood mold is prepared to shape this member. The plastic is heated and placed in the mold. When it has cooled, the plastic is removed and the screw holes are drilled as indicated. The bracket is attached to the base with 1/2″ No. 3 ovalhead screws.

HANGING SHELF

Made of Pine with Natural Finish Blends with any Colonial Setting

Pegged Construction and Rounded-Front Drawers and Shelves Give this Wall Shelf a Very Distinguished Appearance

DESPITE its tricky look, with its rounded drawers, this little wall shelf is not hard to make. Preferably, pine should be chosen for construction because of the design, but maple and poplar will serve as good substitutes.

     The sides are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock, cut to the size given in the drawing. The ends of these pieces are tapered as shown in Fig. It does not matter a great deal if the top varies slightly from the bottom, but it is important that both tops and both bottoms are alike. If a pattern has been used, the pieces may be cut out individually by hand or with the aid of the jig saw or band saw. If the shape has been sketched on the wood, the two pieces may be fastened together temporarily so that they may be cut at one time. The dowel holes for fastening the shelves to the sides should be located and bored. The upper ones are placed 1 5/8″ from the top, the middle ones 5 1/8″ from the bottom and the lower ones 1 5/8″ from the bottom. Horizontally the dowel locations are the same in all cases. The rear ones are 1 1/4″ from the back while the forward ones are 4 1/8″ from the same place. All the holes are 3/8″ in diameter and go through the sides.

     The top shelf is cut from a piece of 3/4″ stock, 5 7/8″ wide and 14″ long. The forward edge is shaped as shown, 5″ wide at the ends and 5 7/8″ at the center. A pattern of this sweep may be made and traced on the wood or if some help is available, a thin piece of wood may be bent and held to the shape while someone else draws the line. The dowel holes are located and bored to a depth of 3/4″ They are placed in the center of each end, 1 1/4″ and 4 1/8″ respectively from the back edge.

     The two lower shelves are identical; that is, 3/4″ × 5 11/16″ × 14″. The difference in width of these shelves from the top is taken up by the 3/16″ plywood back. See Fig. These two shelves are cut to the same shape as the top shelf. Remember that the ends are to be 4 13/16″ wide instead of 5″ as on the top shelf because of the back panel. The dowel holes are located and bored to the same depth as on the top shelf. They are placed in the center of the ends, 1 1/16″ and 3 15/16″ from the back edge. The partitions are cut to size as shown in Fig.

     The sides, shelves and partitions should be surface planed at this time and then smoothed with No. 1 1/2 sandpaper. They should be finished with No. 0 sandpaper to produce a smoother surface. Do not forget to round off the outer corners of the sides as this operation will be a little difficult if left until after the work has been assembled. The partitions are located between the lower shelves and fastened in place with 1 1/2″ brads which must be set and the heads covered with filler. The 3/8″ dowels are cut to size, 1 3/4″ long. Twelve of these are required, two for each end of the three shelves. One end of each dowel is rounded off as shown in the drawing. Glue is put on the dowels and in the holes of the sides and shelves. The dowels are then driven through these members and left to project slightly.

Bill of Materials

     The back, which is a piece of 3/16″ plywood, 4 1/4″ × 14″, has been fastened in place with 3/4″ brads, the drawer members are cut to the sizes given in Fig. The forward ends of the drawer sides are cut at an angle of 79 degrees while the rabbets in the drawer front are cut to conform with these. The angle of 101 degrees is supplementary to 79 degrees and may be obtained without changing the angle of the saw table when it is set at 79 degrees, depending on which side of the saw the cutting is done. If the wood is cut on the left of the tilted saw table, you will get one angle, while a shift to the right hand side of the blade will result in the cutting of the supplementary angle. The front edge of the drawer bottom is also cut at an angle of 79 degrees. The drawers are assembled with the aid of glue and 1″ brads. When the glue has set, the drawer front may be shaped. In order to obtain the correct curve, the drawer is placed between the shelves and a line is drawn along the edge of the drawer front while the shelf acts as a guide. The front may now be planed or sanded to shape. The wooden drawer knobs may be turned from a piece of 3/4″ stock, 1″ square.

     If pine was selected as the wood, a pine stain such as minwax should now be applied and followed with at least two coats of dilute shellac, each of which must be rubbed down with steel wool when the coat has thoroughly dried. Two final coats of paste wax will produce a rich surface characteristic of Colonial pieces.

Vanity Shelf and Bench Fit Limited Space

WHERE space is at a premium in a small bedroom it is sometimes difficult to provide accommodations that most women consider essential. One piece of furniture that can be eliminated is the vanity, although a substitute such as shown in the photograph will have to be arranged. A shelf, fastened to the wall under the window and supported by a bracket, forms the vanity table. A bench that fits conveniently under the vanity when not in use is also a part of set. A three-section folding mirror is placed on the table. One great advantage in this arrangement is found in the fact that the woman using it will have ample light on her face when sitting in front of the mirror. This convenience can rarely be obtained with a regular vanity.

     The shelf that forms the vanity is made of a piece of 3/4″ stock finished to a length of 24″ and a width of 11 1/2″. The two outside corners are rounded at a radius of 1 1/2″. The two battens that are fastened to the underside of this member to prevent it from warping are made of 3/4″ stock 2 1/4″ wide and 11″ long. These are held in place with screws set in countersunk holes.

     A cleat made of 3/4″ stock 2″ wide and 16″ long is fastened to the underside of the top, flush with the back edge; it is held with 1 3/4″ No. 9 flathead wood screws. Two holes should be bored in this cleat to take 1 1/2″ No. 8 flathead wood screws by means of which the vanity is fastened to the wall.

     The bracket is made of 3/4″ stock 11″ wide and 16″ long. The scrolled edge of the bracket may be sketched directly on the wood or a graph-square pattern of the curves may be drawn and traced on the stock. It is cut to shape on the band saw or jig saw and is finished on a sanding drum. A notch is cut at the upper rear corner of the bracket to fit around the cleat. Holes to take 1 3/4″ No. 9 flathead wood screws are bored and countersunk in the top and cleat members in order to fasten the bracket in place.

Shelf fastens to wall where it is supported by bracket and cleats. Simple bench is made to fit beneath vanity

PHOTO GEORGE H. VON ANDA

     The bench is made of two upright end members, a rail and a seat. The seat is made of 3/4″ stock 11 1/2″ wide and 20″ long. The uprights are made of two pieces of 3/4″ stock 11 1/2″ wide and 17 1/4″ long. These pieces are shaped at the lower end on the jig saw and finished on the drum sander.

     The rail is made of 3/4″ stock 5″ wide and 16″ long. In order to fasten the rail to the uprights, holes are located and bored in the uprights, as shown in the drawing, to take 2″ No. 9 flathead screws. These holes should be counterbored to permit the use of wood plugs to cover the screws.

     The seat is fastened to the uprights and to the rail with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flathead screws. Holes should be bored and counterbored in the seat members.1sa

WALL BRACKET HOLDS TEST TUBES FOR DISPLAY OF FLOWERS

This copy of an old stand used by chemists serves as a clever way to display flowers in room

DESIGNED after an old-fashioned chemist’s stand for test tubes this novel flower holder may be hung on a wall or placed on a side table against a wall. The stand is made to accommodate six test tubes 3/4″ in diameter and 6″ long which serve as individual flower holders.

     One piece of mahogany 1/2″ × 8″ × 36″ is required for the shelves and six feet of 1 1/4″ × 1 1/4″ mahogany will be needed for the spindles. The 3/4″ × 6″ test tubes may be obtained from a local druggist or chemistry supply house.

     Start the work by laying out shelf outlines side by side on the 1/2″ stock and marking hole centers as shown in the drawing. Next, cut the stock in three sections on the band saw as in Fig. Do not cut the shelves to exact outline until holes for tubes have been bored. Fasten the top and center shelves temporarily with brads for drilling 7/8″ holes to take the two upper test tubes as in Fig.

     Now remove the upper shelf and fasten the center shelf and lower shelf together with brads. Bore holes for the four lower tubes as in Fig. When fastening the various shelves together, run brads through all the centers marked for spindle turnings into centers marked for lower piece as shown in Fig. 2 and 3. This procedure assures perfect alignment of test tube holes and of spindle turnings. Leave the two lower pieces together while cutting on the band saw and sanding the edge as in the Figs. 4 and

     Separate the pieces and mold all three shelves with a shaper cutter. Use a piece of curved stock, as in Fig. for a guide when shaping.

     Turn the spindles as shown in the drawing. Leave the ends slightly longer than the thickness of the shelf in order that they may be sanded flush with the shelf surface after the stand is assembled. Turnings should fit snugly in 3/8″ holes in shelves. Next, turn the small knobs which are to be glued over the lower end of the spindles projecting through the bottom shelf. These knobs are turned from a piece of stock about 3″ long which has been bored lengthwise with a 3/8″ bit and pressed on a 3/8″ hardwood dowel. Mount the dowel in a small chuck set up in the lathe and use the dead center to support the other end. Knobs are then turned, cut apart and slipped off the dowel.

     The stand illustrated was finished natural. Brown mahogany filler was followed by a sealing coat of thin shellac. Two coats of varnish were then applied.

Wall Bracket Supports Ivy Pot

A plant in the sunroom or dinette adds cheer to the surroundings. To hold a wall display of this kind, security requires the construction of a bracket in which the potted plant is set and out of which it cannot be jarred. A shelf that meets these requirements is illustrated.

     A piece of 1/4″ plywood 9″ × 12″ will be sufficient for the back, brackets and holder. A full-size pattern of each part will have to be prepared with the aid of graph squares for tracing on the stock. The pierced sections should be cut first. This will require the boring of a small hole within each section that is to be removed.

     When cut to shape, the pieces are sanded. The brackets are fastened to the ends of the holder with 1″ No. 20 brads; then these assembled parts are attached to the back.

     A coat of shellac, sanded down when hard and followed by a coat of enamel, will complete the work.

JIGSAWED TOY SHELF

Same cutout is painted two ways on small hanging shelf for kiddies

A wall shelf for a youngster’s toys and books can be made with two shelves held by two cutouts for end members. The novelty of the design is found in the manner in which the cutouts have been decorated. From each side the cutouts appear to be the same.

     The cutouts are made of two pieces of 1/2″ stock, 7″ wide and 15 1/2″ long. Solid white pine or plywood may be used for these members. The two pieces are fastened together with brads and cut at the same time on the jigsaw. A full-sized pattern of the clown is drawn on graph squares and traced to stock.

     Two coats of white enamel are applied. When dry this background is decorated in any desired colors.

     The upper and lower shelves are cut to required sizes and fastened between end members with 1 1/2″ brads. The shelf may be hung with screw eyes driven into the upper shelf and hooked on picture hangers driven into the wall.

Cheesebox Wallshelf

ONE OF the cleverest knickknack shelves for collectors is also one of the easiest to make. It calls for nothing more than a discarded circular cheesebox and a few scraps of plywood. Circular cheeseboxes secured from most grocery stores are easily converted. Being a little too wide for the purpose, a box of this type must first be cut down to 4″ or 6″ in width depending on the depth of shelf desired. The shell is cut down by hand with a rip saw, or it may be cut on the bench saw after the rip fence has been set to required width. If the job is being done on the bench saw, the blade should be raised only enough to clear the stock.

Locations of parts are marked while shelves and partitions are trial-fitted in the shell

     For the shelves and the partition, strips of 1/4″ plywood are cut the same width as the shell. It is advisable to experiment with the arrangement of the strips on a paper circle before cutting them to length. The vertical partition should be placed slightly to the right or left of center. The shelves should be arranged so they do not make a straight line across the circle.

     Shelves may now be secured to the partition with brads as shown in one of the photos. The assembled shelves are placed within the shell and secured with brads. A small screweye is attached at the top near the back edge to hang the shelf on the wall.

     The completed unit can be finished according to individual taste, but it will look best when enameled in a bright color.

This Tricky Little Wallshelf for Knickknacks Takes Its Circular Shell from a Cheesebox. Shelves Are Added

Cheesebox shell is removed so the shelves and partitions can be nailed together as shown in first photo above. Assembled unit is now nailed in place inside the shell. At the top of the shell a screweye is driven to provide means of hanging the shelf on wall

MAKING COLONIAL

Corner Shelves

The Charm of This Graceful Antique Enriches the Modest Home of Today

Bill of Materials

REPRODUCTION of this attractive group of corner shelves begins with the sides which are made of 13/16″ stock. The corner at which they meet is a butt joint requiring one piece 16 13/16″ wide while the other one is 16″ wide. The length of both pieces is the same, 50 13/16″. It may be possible to obtain single pieces of stock wide enough for the sides, but should that be impossible it will be necessary to glue up two or more pieces of wood to obtain a panel wide enough to use for this work.

     A method of obtaining the side pieces with a slight saving of wood may be accomplished by starting off with a piece of stock 17″ wide and 78″ long. By cutting the board diagonally, both side panels may be made from this single piece. In either case when the stock for the sides have been obtained, the back edges of the pieces are dressed with a smoothing plane. The shelf locations are now established on the side pieces, according to the dimensions given in the drawing. The lines for the shelves should be squared and then carried down the inside edges. When laying these out, make certain that those on each piece correspond.

     The joint used to attach the shelf to the sides is shown in the detail as a half dovetail, as used on the original piece. However, a plain dado may be substituted. The depth of the groove, which is 1/4″ must first be established. From the bottom of the groove the angle of the dovetail is 70 degrees. This is laid out on the edge and the line is then carried across the inside face. The actual cutting of the groove may be done entirely by hand, or if the builder desires, the main portion may be cut out on the bench saw using a dado head. The dovetail itself will have to be worked out with hand tools if a clean satisfactory joint is to result. A sharp hand chisel is used to cut the angle of the dovetail after which the groove is cleaned out with a hand router. When all the shelf grooves have been completed, the work of laying out the scrolled edges may be undertaken.

Courtesy Metropolitan Museum

     The first step in scrolling the sides is to lay out a full-size pattern of. the scalloped edge. A sheet of heavy wrapping paper 16 13/16″ wide and 50 13/16″ long should be laid out with 1″ graph squares started 13/16″ from the back edge. Following the squares shown in the drawing, carry the design to the paper. After completing the pattern, cut it out. Keep in mind that one piece is 13/16″ wider than the other one; therefore, the 13/16″ strip is used on one, discarded on the other.

     Cutting out of the sides may best be done on the jig saw. A band saw may be used provided the blade is a fine one and the operator is well experienced in its operation. The curves are so sharp and small that the jig saw with its ability to handle fine blades is best for the job. When cutting has been completed, the edges will have to be finished by hand.

     Each of the five shelves is made of the same thickness of stock, 11/16″. Sizes given in the bill of materials allow the shelves to be laid out with the grain running at 22 1/2 degrees to the jointed edges to avoid obvious end grain on the arc. In order to lay out the shelves a center line should be established across the face of each piece. From the point where the center line meets the edge, two lines are drawn at 45 degrees. These lines represent the outer limits of the shelf which includes the joint for assembling them to the sides. A second set of lines, parallel to the first, are drawn 1/4″ in to represent the shelf exclusive of the joint. Use the juncture of these lines for the arc establishing the outer curve of the shelf. The angle cuts should be made on the bench saw, while the curved front may be cut on a band saw or jig saw.

     The dovetails on the edges of the shelf are cut to fit those in side pieces. The saw table may be used to start both cuts of the dovetail but care should be taken not to set the saw for the full depth of the required joint; otherwise it will be impossible to produce a sharp corner at the inside of the cut. The cut should be finished with a back saw and a sharp chisel. Each dovetail on the shelf should be fitted to the corresponding one on the side pieces before any attempt is made to assemble all the members.

     The second shelf from the bottom has a series of dovetail cuts around the forward edge to accommodate spoons. Although spoons are rarely displayed these days nevertheless this feature should be included as the piece is an authentic reproduction.

     The shelves are sandpapered, after which assembly is begun. Any type of good glue may be used when putting the work together. The narrower side is assembled to the shelves first by sliding each one in from the back edge. When the five shelves are in place the other side is slipped in from the back. All excess glue should be wiped off with a damp cloth. A natural finish is gained by treating the cabinet with boiled linseed oil, rubbed in thoroughly and followed by several coats of wax.

Gardeners Need This Seed Cabinet

HOME gardeners who collect flower and vegetable seeds from the plants in the fall and save them for use the following spring will find it convenient to construct shelves like those shown below. The cabinet can hang on the wall or stand on the floor.

PEACOCK WALL BRACKET

A world of beauty lies within reach of your jig saw. Unaided by other tools, it can turn out craftwork projects of flawless proportions and exquisite grace

WHETHER you’re a jig-saw enthusiast or not, you will appreciate the masterly design of this wall bracket or small curio shelf. For sheer beauty of line it is an outstanding example of the art of jigsawing and goes a long way to demonstrate the quality of work that can be done on the scroll saw once you have a fine pattern to follow.

     The cut-out spaces are exquisitely proportioned and the lines seem to flow harmoniously with each other and the outside oval. At the same time, the eye is drawn irresistibly toward the ornament on the shelf. And this ornament, whether it is a vase, a small figure or some other artistic object, should be carefully selected to enhance the whole effect.

     All that is required in the way of materials is a piece of 1/4″ plywood 12″ × 24″. The plywood should be faced with one of the close-grained hardwoods such as birch, maple, basswood or poplar.

     A full-size pattern is, of course, required. If you wish to prepare your own, the drawing above can be enlarged with squares or a pantograph. Patterns are also needed for the shelf and bracket. All three should be fastened to the plywood with thin glue, mucilage or rubber cement. If glue or mucilage is used, apply it only to the wood; if rubber cement, apply to both wood and paper and allow the cement to begin to set before placing the patterns on the stock.

     Cut shelf and bracket first as they are the simplest. If a fine-toothed jig-saw blade is used, the stock can be cut directly on the line. Sand the sawed edges lightly.

     Before the back member can be sawed, a small hole must be bored within each area that is to be removed so that the saw blade can be inserted. Do the piercing before the outside contour is cut and start with the large central opening. Then continue cutting the openings from the center towards the outside. Finally, saw the outer oval.

     Prick or mark through the pattern to indicate the position of the bracket on the underside of the shelf and also the location of the bracket and shelf on the back member. Then remove the patterns by sanding with No. 1/2 and No. 00 sandpaper. Inspect the work carefully for any irregularities, especially the outside oval, which should be as true and perfect as possible. Fine files may be used judiciously in truing any uneven lines. Finish with sandpaper.

     Attach the bracket to the shelf with glue and 1″ No. 20 brads, and the assembled bracket and shelf to the back with glue and brads of the same size.

     The complete wall shelf should be given a coat of flat white paint, followed by a coat of semigloss paint of whatever color is preferred.

Left, the shelf, bracket and a good type of hanger to use. Below, sticking pattern on plywood, sawing the design, completed parts

Airy WALL SHELF

Lightness and delicacy are featured in the somewhat Gothic lines of this

HANGING shelves are an excellent means of wall ornamentation and also provide display space for the flowers or bric-a-brac that add so much to the appointments of the living room. The wall shelf shown, the side members of which are pierced to produce a design of Gothic influence, is simple enough for any home craftsman owning a jig saw.

     Plywood 1/4″ thick and faced with walnut, oak, or chestnut should be used. The sides will require two pieces 5 5/8″ × 20″; the shelves, two pieces 5 3/8″ × 11 1/4″ and one piece 4″ × 11 1/4″ the pediment and apron, two pieces 2 1/2″ × 11 1/4″.

     A full-size pattern of the design for side members, pediment and apron will have to be prepared by the use of graph squares. The design is then transferred to one of the side members and to the apron. This can be done with carbon paper. If the patterns are not to be kept for future use, they can be cemented to these members with rubber cement. To do this, apply a coat of rubber cement to the back of the pattern and the face of the stock. After the cement has been given a minute or two to dry, the pattern is applied to the wood.

     Since the two side members are alike, they should be cut to shape at the same time. This is done by placing the one to which the pattern has been applied on top of the second piece and securing them with 1/2″ brads driven in portions of the stock that will be removed.

Both plywood side members are jigsawed in one operation, as are the identical pediment and apron. Edges are smoothed with the sanding attachment before assembling the shelves

     Each section that is to be pierced will require the boring of a small hole through in order that the jigsaw blade can be passed. The cutting out of the pierced sections should be done with a blade having fine teeth to eliminate the necessity of filing or excessive sanding.

     The apron and pediment are identical, therefore they should be fastened together face to face and cut in the same manner. If the patterns have been cemented to the stock, they should be stripped from the wood and the faces of each member sandpapered with No. 0 and No. 2/0 paper.

     The shelves are fastened to the side members with glue and 1″ No. 18 brads. The pediment is attached to the upper shelf with glue and held with small clamps while the glue is given time to set. The apron is secured to the forward edge of the lower shelf with glue and 1″ brads.

     The completed work is stained; then, after drying, a wash coat of shellac is applied. When hard, the shellacked surfaces are sanded lightly with No. 4/0 sandpaper. Two additional coats of shellac should be applied, the final coat being sanded with 4/0 sandpaper.

     The hangers are made of 14-gauge metal as shown in Fig. They are attached to the upper shelf and pediment as in Fig.

Swan FLOWER BRACKET

Potted ivy plants bring a bit of the garden indoors. An attractive way to display them is by making this wall holder. It is decorative in itself and supports three flowerpots in a natural grouping

AMONG flower lovers there is nothing more decorative and appealing than wall decorations of live ivy. The swan bracket shelf shown in the photograph and drawing has been designed to show off to advantage three potted plants of ivy.

     Plywood stock 3/8″ thick is used throughout. The back will require a piece 6″ × 21″. The flowerpot holder requires three pieces 4 1/2″ × 5″; the brackets supporting the holders, six pieces 2 1/4″ × 3 1/8″.

     One full-size pattern of the back and holder and two patterns of the brackets should be prepared. Graph squares will aid in developing the patterns for the back and brackets. The pattern for the holder should be laid out with a compass and rule.

     The full-size pattern of the back should be glued to the plywood, then a 1/8″ hole bored within each area that is to be pierced. The cutting out of each pierced section should be done with a blade having small teeth so as to eliminate the need of sanding. After the design has been completed, the 1/8″ holes that are to take the 3/4″ No. 4 flathead screws are bored at the points indicated and countersunk on the back. The paper pattern can be removed by sandpapering.

     The pattern for the holder is glued to the face of one of the pieces; then the other two are placed under the one to which the pattern was applied. The three pieces are held together temporarily with several 1″ brads driven through the areas that are to be removed. To cut the hole for the flowerpot on the jig saw, a 1/8″ hole will have to be bored. At the same time, the 1/8″ holes for the 3/4″ No. 4 flathead screws should be bored and countersunk. The outside is cut after the piercing operation.

     The brackets are cut in groups of threes as most jig saws could not handle the six in one operation. The patterns are glued to individual pieces, then stacks of threes are prepared. They are held together with 1″ brads, placed outside the bracket outline and cut on the jig saw.

     The holders are secured to the back with screws. Then the brackets are attached. The completed work can best be finished by spraying with enamel or lacquer if spray equipment is available. If the brush method is to be used, care will have to be taken to prevent runs. An undercoat is applied first. When this is dry, a coat of semigloss or flat enamel or lacquer is added.

Jigsawing the back member; cut-out parts ready for assembling, and the finished flower bracket

Paired Wall Brackets

BEAUTIFUL in their streamlined simplicity, these useful wall brackets form a most effective decoration when used in pairs. They are easily made and can be completed in a very short time.

     A pair of the brackets can be made from one piece of stock 3/4″ thick and 9 1/2″ square. Any hardwood may be used, but walnut will be found especially satisfactory. The first step in the preparation of the brackets is to draw a 9 1/4″ circle on the face, then cut the stock to a rough disk of this diameter. Mount the disk on a faceplate, placing the screws that secure the faceplate to the stock as indicated in the drawing, Fig. As you will note, the portion of the wood into which the screws of the faceplate are driven is later cut out. True and sand the disk on each side to a final thickness of 5/8″; then shape the edges as shown in Fig.

     If a lathe is not available, this project may be achieved without one. The only difference is that the truing and smoothing of the edges is done by hand or on a shaper.

     A spun shellac finish is applied while the disk is still in the lathe. To do this, give the surface a coat of thin shellac, immediately start the lathe and hold a pad moistened with alcohol against the work.

     The supporting brackets are cut from the disk as shown in Fig. A full-size pattern of these brackets will have to be drawn as shown in Fig. then traced on the stock. The band saw or jig saw can be used to cut the brackets free of the disk.

     Carefully smooth the sawed edges and apply shellac. Pivot the brackets to the shelf by using 1/8″ dowels as shown in Fig. Note the offset position of the outside pivot in Fig. This location of the pivot makes the brackets open square.

     The brackets are to be hung on two small L-hooks. In order to make this possible, bore two 3/8″ holes to a depth of 1/2″ into the back edge of the shelf member as shown in Fig. Bore a 1/8″ hole from the upper face down to meet the 3/8″ hole as shown in this sketch and in Figs. 7 and The L-hooks are driven into the wall in such a position as to have the hooks line up with the small holes in the shelf.

You’d hardly believe it, but a pair of folding brackets can be made from a single disk by the method shown in this photo sequence

Dancing DUTCH GIRL CORNER BRACKET

ODD pieces of bric-a-brac or small potted plants can be displayed to advantage by providing an individual shelf to hold them. The photograph shows such a small corner shelf with two dancing Dutch girls.

     The figures of the girls will require 3/16″ plywood, one piece being 5 5/8″ × 9 1/4″ and the other 5 7/16″ × 9 1/4″. Because of the grain direction shown in Fig. the shelf will require a piece of 1/4″ stock 5 1/2″ × 8″.

     A full-size pattern of the Dutch girl will have to be prepared from the graph-squared drawing on a sheet of paper 5 5/8″ × 9 1/4″ divided into 1/2″ squares.

     The full-size pattern is glued to the 5 5/8″ × 9 1/4″ piece of plywood; then the smaller piece (5 7/16 × 9 1/4″) is placed under the one to which the pattern has been applied. As noted in Fig. the 3/16″ difference between the two pieces is at the inner edge to allow for the butting of the figures when they are assembled.

     Since both figures are identical, the two pieces are fastened together temporarily with several 1/2″ brads placed within areas that are to be removed. To avoid the need of excessive sanding, the jig saw should be provided with a fine-toothed blade. All pierced sections will require the boring of small holes to permit the jigsaw blade to be passed through.

     The decorative small circles bordering the apron on the figures are holes bored as indicated. All pierced sections should be cut first on the jig saw. The outer contour should be left for the final sawing.

     The shelf shown in Fig. 2 is laid out by using a T-bevel or miter square to lay out the angles and a compass to draw the arc. The shelf is cut to shape on the jig saw and the outer edge sandpapered.

     Assembling the bracket will require the fastening together of the two figures with glue and 3/4″ No. 20 brads as shown in the photograph. The shelf is fastened to the side members in the same manner.

     The completed work can best be finished with a spray gun using white lacquer. Should the finishing be done by brushing, apply a coat of flat white; then, when dry, apply a coat of semi-gloss enamel.

At left, jigsawing the figures and nailing them together. Below, how the hanger is made

Collector’s Shelf

AS A MEANS of displaying a prize collection of bric-a-brac or china, this open collector’s shelf will be found ideal. The shelves and gallery members are made of 1/4″ mahogany or walnut, preferably of solid wood, and four 5/16″ dowels. Plywood faced with a good grade of cabinet wood may be substituted.

     The shelves are made of three pieces of 7 13/16″ × 11 3/4″. Each has four 5/16″ holes bored through it near the corners to take the dowels. It is advisable to bore the holes through all three members at the same time. They can be fastened together temporarily with 1/2″ No. 20 brads while the location of the holes is established on the face of the upper piece. The holes are bored with a 5/16″ bit.

     Four 5/16″ dowels cut to a length of 13 1/2″ will be needed. If the shop equipment includes a dowel cutter, these dowels may be made of the same kind of stock used for the shelves. The center shelf is placed on the dowels, its position located as shown in Fig. then secured to the dowels with 1/2″ brads driven through the edges. The top and bottom shelves are secured in the same manner.

     For the gallery and lower ornamentation, lay out a full-size pattern as shown in Fig. This can be used for both side and front members. The sides require four pieces 1/4″ × 1 3/4″ × 7 7/8″ and the front, two pieces 1/4″ × 1 3/4″ × 11 7/8″. The pattern is traced on one side member and one front member. The four side members can be cut at one time by securing them together temporarily with No. 20 brads. The two front members are cut similarly. The pierced sections will require the boring of a small hole within each area that is to be removed so that the jigsaw blade can be passed through. After the jigsawing has been completed, the butting ends of the side and front members are mitered as shown in a photograph. The gallery and lower ornamentation are fastened to their shelves with glue and 1/2″ No. 20 brads.

     The pediment scroll shown in Fig. 2 is made of 1/4″ stock 4 3/4″ × 11 3/8″. This will also require a full-size pattern. After the piece has been cut to shape, it is secured to the side gallery members and the top shelf with glue and 3/4″ No. 20 brads. Metal hangers as shown in Fig. which can be obtained at almost any hardware store, are fastened in place.

Left, sawing the upper scroll on a magnetic jig saw; below, mitering the joints, and the parts before assembly; right, how shelves are assembled on four dowels which serve as the corner posts. Brads are driven through the shelf edges into the dowels, which is easier to do before gallery and lower scrollwork are added

Bluebell SHELF

THE delicate tracery of a bluebell flower design gives a highly decorative quality to this wall shelf. It is an excellent jigsaw project for either the beginner or the advanced worker. The novice will find the comparatively open and simple pattern well within his capacity; and the expert, by his clean-cut, skillful handling of the sweeping curves, can develop the full beauty of the graceful scrolls and long, flowing lines.

     Well-seasoned solid mahogany or walnut 1/4″ thick is the best material to use, but plywood faced with a good cabinet wood may be substituted.

     As shown in Fig. two of the shelves are 5 1/2″ × 12″ and the third or upper one is 5 1/4″ × 12″. Be sure they are identical in length and cut perfectly square. Sand the surfaces and long edges.

     For the two side members, which are 5 1/2″ × 20 1/2″, a full-size pattern is required. This can be drawn on paper as shown in Fig. 3 with the aid of graph squares. The pattern should be fastened to one of the side pieces with rubber cement or paste as in Fig. Then fasten the stock for the two sides together temporarily with No. 20 brads, placing them where nails will later be used in assembling the shelf. Bore a small hole within each area that is to be removed so that the jigsaw blade can be inserted. In doing the actual jigsawing, Fig. sweep through the curves as smoothly as possible.

     The upper ornament requires stock 3 1/2″ × 12″. For this, too, a full-size pattern is needed as shown in Fig. Jigsaw this piece in the same way. Then remove the paper patterns as in Fig. 8 and clean up the jigsawed pieces with fine sandpaper.

     To assemble, hold the bottom shelf in the vise with one end up, apply glue and nail one side piece to it with 1/2″ No. 20 brads. Fasten the middle shelf in the same way, keeping it flush with the upper edge of the horizontal strip that runs across the design. The top shelf is similarly secured, but keep it 1/4″ back from what is to be the front of the completed shelf. Now lay the partly assembled piece on the bench as shown in Fig. 9 and fasten on the other side. Test with a square to be sure the shelves are at right angles to the sides. Finally, glue and brad the upper ornament as shown in Fig.

     Set all brads, fill the holes with composition wood or stick shellac, sandpaper lightly once more and finish with stain and several coats of thin shellac. Small hangers as in Fig. 4 should then be applied.

Four steps in making the wall shelf. The full-size pattern is applied to one of the side pieces as in Fig. the jigsawing is done as in Fig. the patterns are removed, Fig. and the parts cleaned up with sandpaper; then they are assembled as in Fig. 9

Dutch Windmill

IVY BRACKET

Potted ivy plants, properly displayed, do much to pick up the atmosphere of a room. Here’s an unusually attractive corner flowerpot holder, made entirely on the jig saw, that will do a lot to brighten an otherwise cold-looking kitchen

THIS Dutch windmill corner bracket requires two pieces of 1/4″ plywood 6 1/4″ × 13 5/8″, one piece of 1/2″ stock, either solid or plywood, 6″ × 9″ for the shelf and two pieces of 1/4″ stock 9/16″ × 3 1/8″ for the balcony.

     A full-size pattern of the windmill, Fig. will have to be prepared and applied to one piece of stock with glue or rubber cement. The straight edges of the pattern should line up with one edge and one end of the stock. The second piece of stock is placed under this with its edge extending 1/4″ beyond the back edge of the pattern to provide the 1/4″ necessary for the butt joint at the corner. The two pieces should be fastened together temporarily with 1/2″ brads.

     Opening A which represents a window is to be cut in both pieces, while openings B and C are to be cut in opposite sides. The actual cutting will require the use of a fine jigsaw blade to avoid excessive sanding. The sections that are to be pierced, with the exception of openings B and C, should be cut first; then the outside contour is cut. The pieces are separated, opening B is cut in one piece while in the other the opening C is located and cut.

     The shelf shown in Fig. 2 is laid out with a miter square or T-bevel and a compass. The hole in which the flowerpot sets will have to be made to accommodate the pot to be used.

     The balcony members shown in Fig. 3 are next cut, but keep in mind that one of these is to be 1/4″ shorter than the other. Brads are driven into the members as indicated, then the heads cut off, allowing no more than 7/16″ of the brad to project.

     The back members are fastened together with glue and 1″ No. 20 brads. The shelf is attached to these members in the same manner. The balcony is secured to the back members with glue and 1/2″ No. 20 brads.

     The hanger is made of a piece of 18-gauge brass or copper cut on the jig saw to the size and shape given in Fig. Three small holes 3/32″ in diameter are drilled as indicated to take the 1/4″ No. 2 flathead screws that attach the hanger to the bracket. After being cut to shape, the hanger is bent along the center line in order to fit it to the corner as shown in Fig.

     The completed shelf should be given a coat of flat white paint followed by a coat of semigloss or enamel in color.

Left, both main parts are cut at once on the jig saw. All the five parts are shown in the illustration at lower left and the completed bracket appears below

A Pair of Hanging

PIER SHELVES

to hold choice bric-a-brac

How sides are jigsawed and nailed to shelves

HANGING pier shelves flanking a mirror or group of pictures provide an ideal means for displaying bric-a-brac. The pair of shelves will require four pieces of 1/4″ × 5 1/4″ × 28 3/8″ plywood for the sides and 10 pieces 1/4″ × 5 1/4″ × 6″ for the shelves. The plywood should be faced with a close-grain veneer such as maple, birch, whitewood or gum if the work is to be painted. If the finish is to be natural or stained, mahogany or walnut may also be used.

     Cut a sheet of wrapping paper 5 1/4″ × 28 3/8″ and draw graph squares on it as shown in the drawing at the left. With their aid, it is a simple matter to copy the design full size, especially as the same pattern is repeated four times.

     Glue the full-size drawing to a piece of stock. Place the other three side members under the one to which the pattern is attached and nail them together temporarily with 1″ brads. This permits all four pieces to be cut out at one time.

     Each section that is to be pierced will require the boring of a small hole within the area in order that the jigsaw blade may be passed through the stock. A finetoothed jigsaw blade should be used.

     After the sides have been cut to shape, the brads are removed and the faces of the stock sanded. The shelves are cut to size, then secured to the side pieces with the glue and 1″ No. 20 brads.

     White enamel undercoat is applied and, when dry, is sanded lightly. After dusting, a coat of enamel in whatever shade is desired is applied, completing the work. If the work is to be stained, the stain is applied to the natural wood. This is followed by several coats of shellac or varnish.

     The shelves may be hung by driving two small screw eyes into the top shelf near the rear edge, then applying picture hooks to the wall to take the screw eyes.

Novel Scroll-Edge WALL SHELF Backed with Mirror

Shadow box principle used for this wall shelf protects bric-a-brac from dust and damage. Mirror gives all-around view of objects. The octagonal frame requires eight mitered pieces and separate scrolled pieces

MIRROR-BACKED shelves are ideal for the display of bric-a-brac because they permit a view of all sides of the pieces on display while lighting up each subject with reflected light. The shelf shown in the photos and drawing is constructed along the lines of a shadow box, being enclosed at the sides and open at the front. The applied scalloped trim is added to frame the contents and add to the attractiveness of the display.

     The octagonal frame of the shelf will require eight pieces of 1/2″ stock finished to a width of 4 1/2″ and a length of 8 1/2″. A 3/16″ × 1/2″ rabbet is cut along the back edge of each piece to take the mirror. These frame members are cut at an angle of 67 1/2° in order to produce the octagonal shape when assembled. Angle cutting may be done on the bench saw by tilting the arbor or the saw table. As shown in a photo, the cutoff guide should be used when the stock is being fed into the saw blade.

     The next step in construction is that of cutting the 1/8″ groove to a depth of 1/4″ in each end of the frame members to take the splines required for assembling. These grooves should be at right angles to the 67 1/2° cuts. The work is done by keeping the saw set for the 67 1/2° angle and then setting the ripping fence and using this as a guide when passing the pieces through the saw blade. The splines are 1/8″ thick, 4 1/2″ wide and 1/2″ long. Splines should be cut with the grain running across the 1/2″ dimension.

     Assembly of the frame is started by gluing a spline into one end of each frame member. To make certain that the spline is set into the correct end, check each piece against the preceding one as the work progresses. When the splines have been inserted in each member, the members can be assembled. A clamp made of strap iron can be used to draw the assembled pieces together. In the absence of such a clamp or of material to make such a clamp, the pieces may be drawn together with rope. At this stage the work should be checked by measuring across the octagon from corner to corner.

     The shelves will require two pieces of 3/8″ stock 4″ wide and long enough to fit inside the framework as shown in the drawing. These parts are secured to the side members with 1 1/2″ brads.

Scrolled edging made as separate pieces is fitted a piece at a time around assembled main frame. Mirror drops into rabbeted main frame. Plywood back panel carries hangers for holding shelf

     The scrolled edging will require eight pieces of 1/4″ stock 1 1/2″ wide and at least 9″ long. To cut the scrolled edges, a full-size pattern must be laid out. It is traced on the top pieces of a group which is cut to shape on the jig saw as in one of the photos. The sawed edges are finished with sandpaper. The ends of each piece must now be cut at an angle of 67 1/2°. Each piece must be cut to fit its space on the frame. The safest way is to fasten each piece in place after it is cut, and then cut the next piece to fit beside it. The completed edging is fastened to the frame with glue and 1″ brads. Heads are set and hidden with filler.

     The plywood back made of 1/4″ stock should be cut to fit the frame. It comes flush with the outside of the frame and does not go in the rabbet. The back is to be secured by 5/8″ No. 3 flathead screws.

     The work should be given a coat of shellac and a coat of flat paint. This treatment is followed with gloss paint or enamel in the desired colors.

     The back is removed for the placement of the mirror. The mirror should be cut octagonal in shape to fit in the rabbet. Small triangular blocks 1/2″ × 1/2″ × 2″ are required to secure the mirror in place. They are glued to the rabbets as shown in the drawing.

     The shelf is mounted to the wall with metal hangers similar to the one shown in the sketch. These hangers are fastened to the backing with 3/8″ flathead screws.

Open Shelves Utilize Blank Wall Space in Kitchen

THAT vacant wall space over the kitchen sink can be put to use by the construction and installation of shelves as shown in the photograph and drawing. Construction is so simple that even a beginner can undertake the job with the assurance of satisfactory results. If the workshop is equipped with a bench saw the various pieces can be cut to size from standard 1″ × 8″ stock which is purchased dressed to approximately 3/4″ × 7 3/4″. Two pieces of stock 12 ft. long will be sufficient to supply all the members. The four uprights are obtained from one piece, while all the shelves are cut from the second. If a bench saw is not available, a hand saw will have to be used.

     The shelves may be fastened to the uprights with 8-penny finishing nails, but if a more secure method of assembling is desired 1 1/2″ No. 8 flathead wood screws should be used. The location of each shelf should be established on each upright, and screw holes, if needed, are bored and counterbored for wood plugs. The short shelves are assembled to the uprights to form two side sections which are then fastened to the bottom member. The center shelf is set in place with the aid of four angle brackets.

     The plate rails are made of 1/4″ × 3/8″ stock cut to fit between the upright members and fastened to the upper and lower shelves in the center section. These rails are fastened in place 1 1/2″ from the back edge of the shelf with 1″ brads.

     The method used in fastening the shelves to the wall will vary with the conditions that are met. The one shown in the photograph was fastened in place by driving nails through the uprights into the side wall and cabinet side which flank the shelves. Because this condition rarely exists an alternate means is suggested. Cleats made of 3/4″ × 3/4″ stock can be fastened to the underside of the shelves. Screws can be driven through these cleats and into the wall. Screws should be placed so they enter studs in the wall.

     The shelves may be painted with any good enamel or gloss paint.

CORNER BRIC-A-BRAC SHELF

JIGSAWED ENTIRELY FROM 1/4″ PLYWOOD

ONE of the best means of displaying your bric-a-brac is to provide hanging wall shelves. Corner shelves are best suited for this purpose as they are placed in sections of the room that do not lend themselves to the hanging of pictures or other types of wall decoration.

     This wall shelf is made entirely of 1/4″ plywood. The plywood chosen should have two good faces. The shelf members, Fig. may be made of one piece of 1/4″ stock 8″ wide and 33″ long. The stock is cut on the jig saw; then the three pieces are placed one above the other to produce a pad. They are held together temporarily with 3/4″ brads. If the sawn edges are not parallel, they should be dressed with a smooth plane. The uprights that support these shelves are set into notches, which are laid out and cut on the jig saw.

     The uprights are 1/4″ plywood 1 1/2″ wide and 15 1/4″ long. The two at the back, Fig. must have their butting edges mitered at an angle of 45°. This may be done by planing, or they may be cut at the required angle on the jig saw if the table can be tilted.

     After all uprights have been made, they are fastened to the top and bottom shelf members with glue and 1″ No. 20 brads. The center shelf is set in position and secured to the uprights with glue and brads. Figure 6 shows how the outer edges of the front uprights are beveled at an angle of 45°.

     The top and bottom ornamental scrolls shown in Figs. 3 and 4 will require the preparation of full-size patterns, which are applied to 1/4″ plywood stock of suitable size. The various sections that require piercing should have a small hole bored within each area. The outer contour should be cut to shape first; then as shown in Fig. the piercing operation is undertaken. If a fine-tooth blade has been used in the jig saw, excessive sanding will be eliminated. Figure 8 shows the complete cut-out being applied to the assembled shelf unit with a good grade of glue.

     To provide for hanging the shelf, a hanger such as shown in Fig. 5 should be prepared from 18-gauge brass or copper. It is fastened to the upper end of the back uprights.

     Stain the shelf and apply several coats of clear shellac or varnish. After sufficient time for hardening, rub the work with 3/0 steel wool and polish with paste wax.

Beveling outer edges of front uprights; jigsawing the scrolls; gluing on the upper member

Index

Bench

fireside 70

vanity 109

Bookcase

and cupboard 67

and desk, modern 82

and drawer unit 90

and radio cabinet 91

Colonial, pine 68

easy-to-build 86

end table and bench 70

inside closet door 77

modern corner unit 84

modern hanging 74

modern, large 79

Bracket

carved 106

Dutch girl, corner 120

Dutch windmill, ivy pot 123

folding, wall 119

ivy pot 123

peacock, jigsawed 116

shaving bowl 107

swan, flower pot 118

turned, gold-leafed 102

Cabinet

and bookcase 67

dish, Colonial corner 58

dish, hanging, wall 36

dish, modern 29

fire extinguisher, built-in 47

modern corner unit 84

modern, plywood 63

phonograph, child’s 50

photo darkroom 56

pier, twin 26

radiator 22

record, modern 43

record rack 45

rod and gun 19

seed 115

sewing, portable 65

shirt, modern 9

shoe polish 42

Chest

blanket, Colonial 16

cedar, 5-drawer 54

cupboard and drawer, modern 52

modern, 3-drawer 61

modern, 2-door 63

shirt, modern 9

Colonial

bookcase, pine 68

chest, blanket 16

cupboard, built-in corner 58

dresser, pine 13

fireplace and cupboard 38

magazine basket 76

magazine rack, Nantucket 88

shelf, bric-a-brac 114

shelf, dish 100

shelf, pine 108

what-not, corner 95

Cupboard

and bookcase 67

and fireplace 38

corner, built-in Colonial 58

dish, wall 60

modern, all-purpose 48

Desk and bookcase, modern 82

Dresser, Colonial pine 13

Fireplace, ornamental and cupboard 38

Gun Cabinet 19

Hamper, modern 24

Jigsaw projects

127

Magazine rack

Colonial cradle 76

folding modern 87

horseshoe 78

lyre 81

Nantucket 88

ship’s wheel 72

window-sill 89

Modern

bookcase 79

bookcase and desk 82

bookcase and radio cabinet 91

bookcase, end table and bench 70

bookshelves 74

cabinet, child’s phonograph 50

cabinet, dish 29

cabinet, record 43

cabinet, rod and gun 19

cabinet, 2-door 63

chest, cupboard and drawer 52

chest, shirt 9

chest, 3-drawer 61

cupboard, all-purpose 48

desk and bookcase 82

hamper 24

magazine rack, folding 87

night table 33

radiator cover 22

Photo darkroom cabinet 56

Rack, spool 57

Radiator cover 22

Radio and bookcase cabinet 91

Shelf

bluebell 122

bric-a-brac, built-in 101

bric-a-brac, Colonial 104

bric-a-brac, corner 127

bric-a-brac, Gothic 117

bric-a-brac, scroll edge 121

candlestick pattern 105

carved and jigsawed 106

cheesebox, knickknack 113

child’s clown 112

corner, Colonial 114

corner, hanging 92

corner what-not, Colonial 95

dish, Colonial 100

Dutch girl, corner 120

Dutch windmill, ivy pot 123

folding, wall 119

Gothic 117

ivy pot 123

kitchen wall 126

lotus-flower 94

mirror-backed, octagonal 125

peacock, jigsawed 116

pier, Chippendale 26

pier, twin 124

pine, Colonial 108

plastic, hanging 98

shaving bowl 107

swan, flower pot 118

turned, gold-leafed 102

vanity 109

window-sill 89

Table

end and bookcase 70

flower holder 110

night, modern 33

Unit furniture 84

Whatnot, Colonial corner 95