A Guide to Wood Finishing for Beginners

A Step-by-Step Manual on How to Finish, Refinish, Restore, Stain , Dye and Care for your Furniture

By

Clayton M. Rines

Acknowledgments
This book could not have been written without the guidance and generosity of everyone I have come in contact with one way or another. Your influences are all over this book. Thank you.

Dedication
This book is dedicated to all crafters.

Copyright © 2020 Clayton M. Rines

The author retains all rights. No part of this document may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without permission in writing from the author. The unauthorized reproduction or distribution of this unique work is illegal.

Disclaimer
The information contained in this book is purely for educational activities only. The writer does not assert the accuracy or wholesomeness of any info gotten from this book. The views contained within the pages of this material are those of the author in its entirety. The author/writer will not be held accountable or liable for any missing information, omissions or errors, damages, injuries, or any losses that may occur from the use of information gotten from this book.

Contents

Introduction

Chapter One

Getting Ready

The Foundation of Sanding

Manual Sanding

The machine

Chapter Two

Basic Finishing Tools

The Brush

The Spray Gun

Chapter Three

Oils

Varieties of Oil

Identifying Oils

Chapter Four

Staining

Dyes

Pigments

Solvents and Binders

Stain Application

Toners

Chapter Five

Pore Filling

Chapter Six

Stripping

Thinners and Solvents

Lacquer

Shellac

Varnish

Water-Based Finishes

Chapter Seven

Finish Selection

Chapter Eight

The Completion

Degradation of Finishes

Other Books by the Author

Introduction

The process of applying finish and coats is a laborious and time-consuming exercise that most folks will rather avoid. You can also not predict what will happen when you are busy trying to protect your wood. Some individuals also believe that a piece of wooden furniture looks good the way it is without any form of coating or finishing applied to it.

After you finished working on an exquisite piece of wooden project, you can just leave it like that, right? Yes, you can, but at the same time, you would be having a bland piece of wood devoid of the beauty that could have been had if you applied finishing to it. You might wonder that other than bringing out the beauty of your work, do you have to go through all the process, time, and funds to obtain wood finishing materials and apply to your wooden project? Sure, you would want your project to turn heads and be the centre of attraction in the room; finishing also serves as a mechanism to slow down or prevent motion in your projects' joints.

For practical reasons such as cutting down on surface action that comes with the constant use that the wood is subjected to, the application of finishes extends your artifacts' shelf life. Some folks will find every reason not to apply finishing to their work; however, there are situations in which you cannot just but apply a combination of finishing products to your project.

Expert artisans and even a beginner can carefully construct a piece of wooden work with all the joints and pieces perfectly fitted to limit any potential movements that might occur. The application of a finish supersedes any masterfully put together joinery as it limits the seasonal movement that tends to occur in woods, the presence of moisture in the atmosphere that wood will most likely absorb and let out depending on the humidity levels in the atmosphere. The release and absorption of moisture by the wood bring about a reduction and an increase in the wood's total mass, which will ultimately have negative effects on all joints in the project.

The application of finishes is an art that can be learned and practiced as there are a handful of finishes on the market. Getting the right combination goes a long way determination how effective it is in reducing the amount of moisture release and intake by the wood. A finish must be equally applied to all parts of a project to prevent the wood from undergoing disfiguring. This is because the part of the project having finishes applied been impervious to moisture and other parts lacking finishes allowing the free movement of moisture in and out of the wood.

Other than the protective functions and the aesthetics that finishing gives to wooden objects, it also conveys cleanliness. After a piece has been made, given a few days of contact and use, both the physical and environmental conditions around it will begin to take its toll on the surface, leading to a gradual and undesirable change in the piece's general appearance. However, when a finish is applied, your wooden object will be adequately protected against the most basic factors that will degrade its appearance and functionality. The complexity of the finish application depends on how much contact and use the object will undergo. Decorative pieces that will not regularly come in touch with hands and other surfaces require an application of finish and proper waxing to permit the occasional dusting. For other wooden objects like chairs etc. that will be used daily and will be subjected to moisture and temperature change, layers of finishing and coating are advisable to be applied to such surfaces.

The furniture in the garden or the patio can also undergo finishing applications. This is, however, subjective as it is not necessary. It all depends on the end-use of such furniture and how you want your pieces to appear. The prudent action to take most times is to apply the finish as it makes it easier for you to maintain and protect your valuable objects. Take, for example, if you have a chair out in the garden that hasn't undergone any form of finish and coat application; when it rains, it will absorb a lot of moisture, and it will eventually serve as a source of food for fungi. It will also begin to become soft, and the joints will undergo undesirable movements leading to eventual damage of your chair, table, or other decorative arts in the garden. Several layers of finish and coat will protect your furniture, and any form of water will find it hard to get to the wood surface. If environmental conditions begin to bring about cracks in the coat and finish, immediately apply a new coat to the affected areas.

Finishing also conveys a different or similar color to the wood, and this is termed staining. The application of color can be done straight to the surface of the wood, or you can also coat the wood, apply the coloring agent, coat it again, and apply another round of coloring. This process is not termed staining; rather, it is called glazing. The application of color can also be done by combining appropriate amounts of coloring agents and the finish and then applying it to the surface of the wood through the process called toning or shading if the mixture is transparent, allowing you to have a view of the original surface of the wood through the painting. If the mixture is obscure enough to prevent you from having a clear look at the wood's surface, it is called a painting.

The result of the technique used in applying these coating, finishing, and coloring techniques has varying outcomes on your project. This will be a major determining factor on which method you decide to go with.

Painting or toning brings about an alteration in the original color of the wood while at the same time not making pronounced the holes and other slight faults on the wood surface. The grain of the wood is highlighted while painting covers all the features of the surface.

Glazing makes pronounced the recesses and adds additional and often time desirable looks that are not natural to the wood's surface.

Staining makes pronounced features that are present on the surface of the wood. The features can be a natural attraction that you want to be accentuated or faults impacted on the surface will produce the surface.

Chapter One

Getting Ready

The surface of your wooden furniture needs to be thoroughly prepared for you to get a top-notch finish. Due to the perceived hard work that goes into this finishing step, you will have discovered that it is quite often the norm to give it a wide berth. What is the result? A shoddy product with a drastically reduced lifespan and wasted time and resources. When you have more than one person working on a piece of wood, there is more often than not a breakdown in the flow of information on the project's critical aspects. For example, if one person works on the project's carpentry area, he might overlook pertinent aspects of the work, which will make the finishing stage a breeze. You will find out that in such cases, there is often a little more than necessary sanding of the surface of the wood with the mindset that it will be enough for the finisher to work with. To avoid such costly adventures, you should handle the project from the conception of the idea until you deliver the final work.

To ensure that all angles are taken care of, and no excuse will come up in the end, follow the following phases religiously.

Sourcing the Wood

There is quite a variety of wood out there differing in texture, grain arrangement, and overall general appearance. It is vital that you pick similar-looking boards to use as using boards with vastly dissimilar appearance will, to a large extent, defeat the aesthetics that you hoped to achieve with your work. When selecting boards to engage in for your project, notwithstanding where you are getting them from, take time out to create a mental image of how the boards will fit in into different parts of your work without causing any chaos in the looks. Boards will always come with slight defects and unique appearances that can add a slight touch of genius to your work or cause a headache that you would rather avoid. One important factor to look out for is the differences in shades, tones, and colors; you should, without saying, pick shades of closely matched tones.

In constructing cabinets, chests, and wardrobes, pick plywood with the same arrangement of grains, color, and textures. Turn and set them up so that there is a flow from one board to the other. Pick boards that will serve as the front, side, and top of the bedroom chest. These areas are what catches an observer's attention, the choice of finish and coat that you applied, rather than the joinery that might have taken on more resources. The time it took you to pick the right boards to go into your project carefully will be well spent. As with any project, all tools and equipment must be in good working condition. This is more important in woodworking; sharp and well-honed tools will prevent the marking of the wood's surface, which will mar the beauty of your finished product if not properly attended to. There could be sniping of boards, the formation of ugly looking ridges, and a box load of other damages that could be done to the surface of your project. Your router bits, knives, planer, sharper knives must all be sharpened before you proceed in other to achieve a flawless surface.

Sanding

This is the big bad wolf of wood finishing. I must confess that I won't touch this phase with a 9-meter pole if I can avoid it, and I bet you won't too. It is hated, yet you would have discovered that many resources and time are wasted on it. Do you have this notion that if you the wood's surface for a long time for it to come out looking smooth, your finished work will also be better? You must have the notion that immediately you have gotten rid of all the bumps and irregularities on the wood's surface, that should be the end of the sanding, and you have little or no reason to apply any finish again. The major reason why any sanding should be done to the surface of the wood is to erase all markings left by machines. You will be surprised to find out that a surface that has undergone a series of fine planning can be considered as the ultimate surface for such a project without it undergoing any form of finishing again. Realistically, sandpapering a surface is not necessary for all wooden surfaces as mill marks. Other deformities of the wood can be used to the woodworker's advantage to bring out the wood's personality in a different light. However, if you must go down this path, you will need to have scrapers, sandpaper, and hand planes to help you along the way.

If you have to sand the wood surface, bear in mind that it is of utmost importance that you sand all the project units individually before putting them together. It makes the process of sanding a joy and breeze if the project units are worked on one at a time. You will be able to focus on every corner and pay closer attention to details than when you aim to sand a finished project as a whole. The project at hand will determine if it should be sanded or not; for example, if you have a carved project on your workbench, it will be counterproductive to sand it as this will rid the surface of the wood of essential and definitive features of the piece.

The Scraper

If you are not a fan of using the sandpaper and are confused as to what other method or tool you can employ in making your wood surface smooth and getting rid of all the ugly defects, I will recommend the scraper. The common types of scrapers are the cabinet scraper and the hand scraper. In certain regions of the world, you will hardly find these tools in use due to the advent of machine-driven tools. The scraper removes far move uneven wood surface than the sandpaper will ever get to do. The rate and beauty of the outcome of using a scraper make it the go-to choice if one aims to get more work done in a short amount of time. Another major difference between the sandpaper and the scraper is that the scraper removes fine slivers of curled wood as you move it through and fro along the wood's surface.

In contrast, sandpaper generates an excessive amount of sawdust. Which will you rather go with? The choice is ultimately yours.

In employing the hand scraper, it should be held with your hands and the forefingers and thumbs of both hands resting on the tool at a slightly inclined angle to the wood's surface. With the hand position fully set, you can then proceed to push the tool away from you and back towards you. The ideal waste generated should be wooden slivers, an indication that the blades of the scraper are not sharp is the production of dust, more application of force for the scraper to move forward, and the likely production of ugly gouges on the wood.

The scraping process will generate heat, and you can get over this by taking a break from time to time. There is also the formation of a curved edge that won't be noticeable until you apply a finish. You can remedy this slight imperfection by changing the direction of flow to counter the curve's formation.

Position the scraper at an incline to the cured rows on the wood; this will prevent dips' formation when sanding. You should also aim to alternate the incline at which you move for each movement.

The Foundation of Sanding

As a beginner, you should carry out the sanding of your project with the garnet paper, though there are various sandpaper on the market. This paper comes in shades of red. Typical sandpaper has grits ranging from 60 to 2000 (fine to coarse). If your goal is to sand the wood surface as a finishing process, a silicon carbide sand will be your best option, which typically comes in two forms; the dry/wet (black) and the stearated (gray). The gray sandpaper, which has the stearate as the main agent, is responsible for preventing the wood surface from developing too much friction and becoming clogged up. Sanding can either be carried out manually or through the aid of a machine. Whichever method you pick, ensure you select the appropriate sandpaper for the project at hand.

After the sandpaper and other tools have been selected; you have to adhere to the following stages;

Start with a paper having the lowest grit number to get rid of pronounced mill marks and other blemishes.

After you are done with the coarsest grit sandpaper, proceed to the next finer grit. Ensure that you move on gradually to the next finer grit sandpaper without jumping. You must remove as much deformity or marks with the sandpaper at hand before moving to the next. If you jump from a grit paper of say 60 to 100, you will spend a whole lot of time and energy compared to when you move from 60 to 80. Do not omit any grit level, especially if you are carrying out the process manually. It's a beginner's error to jump grits without properly working with a coarser grit first before proceeding to the next level. In machine sandpapering, however, grits can be skipped due to the power used by the machine.

When you are done with a grit, carry out a thorough cleaning of the entire surface to prevent any work obstruction when you start to work with the new grit.

You should not continue to sand with a paper that has lost its edge. If you are conscious of every action you take during the finishing process, you will most likely notice when your sandpaper begins to lose its edge. You will struggle to carry out the most basic sandpapering process, and a lot of energy will be expended.

There is no clear cut rule that determines how long and how far a surface should be sandpapered. Ideally, when a grit of 120 is used, the surface is smooth enough, and if you go higher to a finer grit, the difference will be hard to spot. This is simply because most surfaces will still undergo some form of coating and painting, which will ultimately bring out the shine. However, if you intend to make use of a finish containing water, use a wet, soft piece of cloth to rub-down the wood, let it dry out, then sand it again. This will enable you to remove as much wood fibers from the surface as you can.

Manual Sanding

Sanding by hand gets you to build a bond with the wood and your project as a whole. The slow back and forth motion you carry out with different sandpaper grits is one of the best techniques employed in the sanding process. To effectively have a solid grip on the sandpaper to make proper contact with the wood, it is advised that you lay the paper on a solid piece of material such as a block of wood, rubber, or any other object that you feel comfortable with. Some folks use their hands to hold the sandpaper directly; I won't advise that you do this as there tends to be an uneven surface created. For a large project, an uneven block material will be better used, e.g., a thick piece of cloth or leather, especially when working with carvings having many curves. During the sanding process, break the edges; this is used to remove sharp angles on the piece by slowly and methodically dulling and smoothening it out with the sandpaper. It goes without saying that the sanding motion should go along with the grain and never against it. Also, you should cut and wrap your sandpaper around your hand or block so that it will allow economical and proper use of the entire surface. When you notice that a particular area of the sandpaper is getting dull and not cutting as it should, unwrap the paper to position a new area and use it.

The machine

These machine sanders are the ubiquitous types;

The Random Orbit; this sander is designed so that it revolves and moves in an orbit. This machine's wood sanding powers are best described as moderate they do no remove large chunks of wood and leave unwanted marks compared to the other two types of sanders. As a beginner or a pro who has decided to use a machine in the sanding process, your go-to option should be the random orbit sander. The motion of the sander and the work rate is unparalleled, giving you an amazing output devoid of any deformity in the surface of the wood. To begin the sanding process, ensure that the sander is resting on the wood's surface to prevent the removal of large chunks of wood. There should be minimal pressure and a uniform rate of movement of the sander over the wood. When you are done with the random orbit sander, quickly go over the wood manual with a sanding paper to remove any wood fiber pieces that the machine might have missed.

The Orbital Pad; this sander's fixed motion leaves it at a massive disadvantage compared to the other types of sanders. When the sanding is finished using the orbital pad, you will smile in satisfaction until you apply a finish coat. The magnitude of its ineptitude will stare at you right in the face. However, this downside can be tackled by ensuring that the machine is already running before putting it to the wood surface. As usual, go with the grain flow in a slow rhythmic fashion while stopping once in a while to feel the smoothness of the wood. At times, fibers or little pieces of wood might get stuck on the sander's surface, which will inevitably leave some ugly markings on the wood. Like I stated earlier, the wood will appreciate you going over manually with again.

Belt Sanding; is not ideal for smoothing the wood's surface; rather, it is the perfect wood removal equipment. When in use, it should be maintained in a linear format and avoiding any left to right movement as this will result in deep, ugly like trenches in your wood. If you have no other alternative than to use the belt sander, be prepared for a lot of practice and tonnes of damaged wood until you finally get how to use it.

It goes without saying that after the sanding process, either with the sanding paper or the scraper, all the waste generated should be promptly removed from the wood's surface. The removal of dust from sanding regularly will prevent the formation of marks on the wood. It will also allow for easy, unhindered movement of the sanding paper over the wood's surface. So how do you get rid of the dust?

➢         Use a vacuum machine

➢        Make use of a rag that has some form of varnish applied to it.

➢         Employ the services of a compressor.

➢         Use a brush.

Chapter Two

Basic Finishing Tools

Compared to other wood construction activities, wood finishing has one of the least requirements as regards tools. You don't have to break your bank account to get the equipment you need to apply finishes. Finishing wood is a simple art that needs brushes, spray guns, rags, and rubbing pads. These tools serve the major purpose of applying coats and finishes and preventing your hands from coming in direct contact with the chemical compounds.

The Brush

As with any implement used for any project, if you hope to get the desired results, you should aim to have high-grade tools in your box. This same applies to the brush used in wood finishing. There are many brushes out on the market; the type you need is that which can apply more of the coat and finish with one dip into the material without having you dipping the several times to apply a coating to a relatively small real estate of wood. Picking a quality brush is also determined by the type of bristle it has (synthetic or natural), the type of handle (plastic, metal, or wooden), the brush's size, etc. Here are some brushes that you can consider; synthetic and natural bristle brushes, pad applicators, and sponge.

After you have selected your choice of brush, you have to master it for the variety of finishing projects that you will be using it for.

Making Use of the Brush

Why do you make use of a brush? It is a finishing tool, and you aim to make the wooden piece smooth with the coating and finishing. Some vital points must be taken into consideration when before and when using brushes.

There are bound to be small extra unwanted hair bristles that are leftovers from the production process on the brush; gently tap the head of the brush against a hard surface to dislodge them.

Get a sizeable container that will be dedicated to the use of the finishing and coating process, fill it with just enough fluid to be used for the job at hand. This is done to avoid you dipping your brush into the main container of finisher to prevent foreign substances' introduction into the mix.

The metal ferrule of the brush and the wooden or plastic handle should sit comfortably on your thumb and held down firmly with your forefinger. Gently immerse about half of the brush into the finish, remove it from the fluid and hold it against the container inside for a few seconds to get rid of the excess fluid.

If the surface to be worked on has a large real estate, avoid the urge to apply the finish straight to the edge of the material. Always start from the middle and brush towards the edge with the container of finish situated so that the brush's movement won't leave a constant drip of finish on the already worked surface.

If the wooden piece to be worked on is a carving or other pieces that have curves, sharp edges, etc., ensure that the finish on the brush as minimal as possible to prevent excess fluids from dropping into curved ridges and lower areas of the work.

When you have applied the finish to a certain area and come back with a fresh brush of finish, do not immediately begin where you left off, rather start brush from some distance away and move back to where you finished off previously.

Do not brush against the grain of the wood; ensure you move along with the grain flow. The likely brush lines left on the surface won't be easily seen if it is in tandem with the grain.

Brush Maintenance

It makes no economic sense to purchase a set of nice and high-quality brushes and not maintain it properly, only for it to get damaged after a few uses resulting in you having to shell out some cash to get another one. To avoid constant replacement of your brushes, you have to take good care of them; when you are through using them, clean and store them properly always.

When working, there might be situations where you have to take a quick break or have to come back to continue applying the same finish later on; if this is so, there are provisions for storing the brush. You can get an airtight Ziploc bag to store the brush for the duration it will take you to get back to work. If the finish is water-based, store the brush in the water-based solvent, alcohol for shellac, use the spirit-based liquid for polyurethane, varnish, or oil-based finish. If the brush is placed directly into the container containing the solvent, you might begin to notice that the brushes are getting bent after a while. To prevent this, make holes on the handle on the brush from which you attach a twine and hang the brush head down with the bristles fully submerged in the solvent. When you are done with your project for the day, you should clean the brush thoroughly before storing them. For water-based finish and coatings, soap and an ample supply of water will do the job. On the other hand, for any other type of coating or finishing cleaning, there are several procedures that you should go with.

Do not see cleaning and storing your brushes properly as hard work; it should mark the end of a day's job and set the pace for another day. When you open your drawer to pick your brush for another round of finishing, there is bound to be a sense of joy and accomplishment at having kept and properly maintained your tool for a long time. The simple steps below will guide you on caring for your brush while ensuring that your hand and fingers are adequately protected with the right gear;

Make use of the correct fluid to wash the brush by using your fingers to massage the fluid into the bristles > Carry out the previous step again, making use of the appropriate solvent > A lacquer thinner should be used to washing the brush again > Get a bowl of water and liquid soap and immerse the brush in it and use your fingers to wash the bristles thoroughly > dry the brush with a clean piece of rag and apply a few drops of mineral oil to keep the texture of the brush > wrap the brush in a paper, tie it up with a twine or rubber band and store in a drawer  > Ensure that you shake the brush or gently squeeze it after every washing step.

Finishing Cloth

This can also be n the form of a piece of cotton rag. The cloth must be made of cotton as other materials do not soak up the coatings or finishers thoroughly.

Finishing Pad

This is a piece of additional equipment that you can put together in a few seconds. The pad is typically made of an inner piece of cotton material folded into a bundle, and an outer material, e.g., nylon, rayon, etc., will do well for this. The outer material should be tightly wrapped around the absorbent cotton material in the form of a ball. 

The Spray Gun

When you consider the brush, rags, and pads, the spray gun is the obvious fans favorite due to its efficiency and uniform application of finishes time and time again with little manual labor from your end. The spray gun atomizes the finishing fluid through the aid of the mechanism at its tip. A uniform and evenly distributed layer of mist is formed and sprayed directly on the wood's surface. For this fluid to be formed into the proper mist, there should be a proper combination of the fluid and air emerging from the spray gun's nozzle simultaneously. A fine balance must be achieved for you to get the optimum result; if the amount of air is more than the fluid, the fluid mist will disappear into the atmosphere before it has any chance to settle on the project. On the other hand, if the fluid has a significantly higher proportion compared to air, it will fall in the dorm of droplets creating an uneven surface.

Apart from atomizing the fluid, the nozzle of the spray gun also serves as a medium through which a larger surface area can be worked on in a shorter amount of time in conjunction with air nozzles. You can adjust the amount of airflow or decrease it depend on what you hope to achieve at any point in time. If the airflow is reduced, the surface area that is covered is reduced, and this is a mechanism through which ugly patches and other mistakes can be easily attended to. The gun is designed in such a way with control apparatus to help you have charge over the amount of air and finish that you can release at any point in time; this is the typical spray gun. In the minority are guns that have only one control mechanism used to release both the air and finish simultaneously.

You have the option of selecting either of any two types of spray guns commonly available on the market; the High Volume/ Low Pressure (HVLP) or the Conventional Spray Guns (Low Volume/ High Pressure).

To use the spray gun efficiently, listed below are a couple of hints to guide you.

You must develop and practice the appropriate spraying methods. The room where the spraying will be taking place should be well ventilated, and there should be proper lighting to allow you to have a clear view of every spraying step. The light source should be directly above the spraying table or area where you are working.  Always aim to be economical with how you spray your wooden piece; spray from areas with little surface area to places having a large surface. Before you depress the spray gun's trigger, the nozzle should be set perpendicular to the work, and once you begin to spray, avoid a left, right motion as this will lead to some areas having a higher layer of finish when compared to other places. As I discussed earlier, adjust the air to finish ratio depending on the area of the surface you are spraying to either increase the area covered with every spray or reduce it, e.g., when spraying a chair's legs, you will want the spray pattern drastically reduced.

The spray gun should be ideally kept about 7 to 12 inches away from the wood's surface and ensure that this distance is maintained to avoid either having a dry spray or the finish running down the surface. The conventional spray gun is always held a bit farther away when compared to the HVLP gun.

When you get towards the end of a stroke, take your fingers quickly off the trigger to avoid having a larger than the wanted amount of finish deposited there. When you start with a new stroke, start from the middle of the previous stroke to ensure that you have a uniform application.

In situations where the material to be sprayed is having a flat top with legs, always begin with the legs before moving to the flattened areas.

Do ensure that the spraying is carried out in an area where there is moderate airflow; this can be somewhere in the garden, or if you are spraying indoors, there should be an exhaust system installed. If a fan is set up in the room, the moving parts should be adequately protected to prevent a fire outbreak from the aerosolized combustible materials.

Being in charge and getting used to the spray gun is a process you have to master, just like any other equipment. All it takes you to master how to use it is a few minutes of practice.

Spray Gun Maintenance

Like any equipment used for any crafting process, you should clean it immediately after using it to prevent it from becoming faulty. If the gun is not going to be used for some time, use a lacquer thinner to clean the needle valve and air nozzle system; store them in a clean, dry place or attach them back to the gun. Apart from the nozzle and valve system, clean the cup and other parts of the spray gun properly before storing it until when needed.

Chapter Three

Oils

Oils are a wood crafters favorite due to the ease of application and the wood's general look after the application. Oil is an encompassing term used to describe chemical substances used for coating and finishing, and they are not truly "oil'. Some features of oils used in finishing include and are not limited to oil majorly are used in protecting the surface area of wood and, to a lesser extent, the internal part. You can describe oils used in finishes as penetrative as they protect both within and without the wood. Other types of finishes act as protective agents by forming a layer on the wood's surface and limiting the inflow of moisture and other substances.

How does oil protect the internal parts of the wood? Just like water rises a plant through transpiration and capillary action, the same happens when a piece of wood is dipped in the appropriate oil type for a short period. All spaces within the piece of wood are filled with the oil, but you should be aware that this does not serve any protective functions for the wood's surface as it will still be subjected to wear and tear. The major advantage of oil within the wood piece is that the wood's potential for expanding and shrinking due to moisture in the atmosphere is greatly reduced.

Varieties of Oil

Not all the finishes used in coating wood are oil. Oil is a generic name that can cause a beginner to make costly mistakes, and the only remedy is for one to be thoroughly informed about the chemical constituents and what functions these substances perform. Here are the commonly available finishes tagged oils.

The polymerized oils (polymerized linseed and tung oil). You will not readily find them on the market due to the cutthroat prices.

A combination of varnish and pure oil.

Typical varnish (1/3 parts of varnish plus 2/3 parts of mineral spirits).

The straight oil is divided into two; the linseed oil (boiled and raw types) and the tung oil.

These oils are as varied in their names as they are in their physical attributes, ranging from thick to thin viscosity, dull to glossy. Also, to be considered are how effective they are in their protective functions, the mode of applications, etc.

The Polymerized Oil

Oils of this nature are produced by undergoing some form of heating in the absence of oxygen to improve some of its desirable properties. For example, due to its ability to prevent water entry into the wood and its excellent curing abilities, it is a prime candidate for a finish. Due to its fast curing nature, it is difficult to work with on relatively large surface areas unless some form of a thinning agent is added. If you attempt to apply polymerized directly to the wood surface, there will be breakages in the finished application due to the oil's thick nature. In addition to these properties, this oil is also expensive, and you will not readily come across it in the hardware store.

Varnish-Oil Combination

The mixture of these two substances is possible due to their chemical nature. The combination product takes on the best attributes of both finishes to give a hybrid far better than the individual parts. The oil is not a fast curing material with lowered gloss properties, thus resulting in a mixture that does not offer the desired protective properties that you may want. On the other hand, the varnish contributes to a higher level of gloss and thickness to the union. These mixtures offer more comparative advantages in terms of protection and gloss compared to several layers of pure oil application that will take to achieve the same results with the varnish-oil mixture.  As you will expect with mixing two or more types of materials, the ratios of the combination will determine how effective the result will be. Commercially produced varnish-oil mixtures do not readily state the ratios of the individual components. With folks wanting to have unique oils to satisfy their crafts, it is a no brainer that you might want to produce your mixture rather than buy it from the hardware store. In producing your finish, some pertinent information must be adhered to in other to make it a worthwhile venture.

✓       As a beginner still experimenting, it is best that you start with equal amounts of both the oil and varnish and then go from thereby gradually increasing the ration of the varnish until you get something you are ok with. If the varnish ratio is too high compared to the oil, you will most likely be getting a more or less varnish product. Your ultimate goal should be a product that will offer the best mechanical wear and tear, stain, and water prevention to your wooden piece.

✓       The addition of mineral spirits enables for a more comfortable application of the mixture by acting as a thinning agent. You also have it at the back of your mind that the addition of this substance will considerably reduce the coating's protective ability, so you will have to apply several layers to achieve any meaningful result.

✓       Varnishes vary, and the choice you use does not matter as the differences do not confer much on the end product as the oil will do, e.g., tung oil offers more protection than linseed oil.

Varnish

Commercially available oils are typically varnishes that have been branded to make unsuspecting buyers assume they are oils. Varnishes are produced by subjecting resins and oils to high temperatures and pressure to result in a new product. A significant variation between oil and varnish is the thickness or hardness, which results in near-perfect protection for the wood. The varnish can come unthinned or thinned, and it is left to you to apply the wanted amount of thinners based on what you hope to achieve. The varnishes offer different degrees of water permeability and thickness based on the combination of oils and varnishes used in the production. If the varnish is to be used for a wiping operation, you wouldn't mind how thin it is; if, on the other hand, the aim of for protective purposes, the varnish's thinness does play a very important role. This is a major reason why many woodworkers will rather formulate their varnish rather than buy it from stores.

The Straight Oil

When we come to the topic of oils, they are liquid substances naturally occurring and can be from either plant or animal sources. When it comes to woodwork, the major oils of importance are the linseed and tung oils that undergo some forms of curing when they come in contact with air. What is curing, by the way? Curing is the solidification that oils undergo when exposed to air. Some other oil varieties do not absorb oxygen and thus don't undergo curing and cannot serve the same purpose that tung or linseed oil will. In contrast, oils like soybean and walnut do undergo curing to a certain level but not as much as linseed or tung oil. Oils that undergo full curing are the perfect finishing agents, while oils such as mineral oils that do no cure are not useful as finishing agents.

Straights oil leave a satin finish on the surface of the wood, and the rate of curing is relatively slow. To improve its usefulness as finishing agents, several layers of the oils need to be applied, with you wiping the surface after each application before proceeding to apply another layer. These finishes go into the main body of the wood, unlike what you can achieve with varnishes.

Tung oil is a very effective coating agent due to its resistance to water permeability. However, to increase this quality, several layers of the tung oil need to be applied to the wood surface. After each application, you will have to sand it, wait a few days before applying another layer. The oil feels rough to touch initially until the sanding is carried out. The waiting period between sanding is because of the sowing rate of curing that the oil goes through. During the curing process, the oil becomes white, which is a problem when it settles into holes and pores in the wood. The total removal of the coating can only remedy this.

Linseed oil, just like tung oil, cures very slowly and does not fit the profile of a very good finish unless certain substances are added to improve on the rate of curing, e.g., zinc and manganese; the resulting product is termed boiled linseed, and you will get a cured oil in about twenty-four hours. The water protective qualities of this oil are least to none and other features that you will usually look out for in coating and finishes.

Identifying Oils

Your olfactory sense comes into play in helping you distinguish the different types of oils that you have on the market. Getting to identify a specific type of oil commercially bought can be a herculean task. This where the power of your nose comes in; with the straight oils, you will perceive a nice aroma from the tung oil and a lesser fragrance from the linseed oil. There is a strong smell of mineral spirits in other types of "oils," which encompasses the varnishes and polymerized oils. However, you won't be able to tell how much of the oil is present in the spirit or the combinations used in producing them. In identifying if you have a combination of a varnish-oil mixture or a pure varnish, you can check out how hard the oil is after a few hours. A wiping varnish cures much faster than a mixture of the varnish-oil mixture. There is a presence of wrinkles in a mixture of varnish-oils, while a wiping varnish does not have any form of wrinkles after curing.

After carefully considering the "oils" properties so far discussed, more than half are not fir to be used for your finishing projects. The oils that you shouldn't use on a typical day are the straight oils because of the limited protective abilities and low water-resistant qualities. The other type of oil, which is the polymerized oil, is not an economically viable option. The varnish-oil combination and the wiping varnish are better materials due to the ease of application and the end product, which is a sheen. The varnish is more fitted when you want your piece to look good and not really for everyday physical activities. The wiping varnish is a difficult candidate for application due to its fast curing rate. The finish produced by the wiping varnish has a typical gloss to it; you can also purchase one modified to has a satin sheen that could be more preferable. The gloss sheen can also be worked on to gently buff with the appropriate material to give you the desired outlook.

After applying the oil finish, especially the wiping varnish variety, it has to under a regular maintenance cycle to ensure its integrity is kept intact. The easiest way of getting this done is by recoating the surfaces by establishing a timetable or keeping a close watch and immediately working on the surface once you begin to notice any slight cracks or wears developing. You don't necessarily have to coat with the same finish you used initially; the recoating can be done with a different oil type.

Your wooden piece will always suffer some form of damage if the surface is a high activity area. For example, heat, aging of the wood, or staining can occur. If the damage is heat caused, sand the area to reveal the layer beneath. If the area stained is significant, you can change the color of the material by applying a coat color similar to the stain.

The application of wax can also be used in preserving the longevity of an oil finish. The wax layer acts as a defense mechanism for the layer beneath from mechanical damage. If the need arises to apply another coat of oil, use a mineral spirit to get rid of the wax layer before any work is done. Oil finishes are quite easy to maintain and fix if there is any damage done to it. This is as a result of the thin layer formed during the application process. If scratches and marks on the surface and another layer of finish are applied, the ugly marks on the surface are taken care of. In the case of moisture damages, this can be a little tricky to handle as the area with the issue is usually elevated with discolorations compared to the surrounding areas. You should not process with a finish application to this area, rather first sand it with the correct sandpaper before any application is done.

Chapter Four

Staining

I won't judge you if you give staining of your projects a wide berth due to the headaches associated with this finishing technique. These headaches often result from the shortage of knowledge on how to handle the process of staining and the types of staining methods that abound. Staining confers on your wood a new look and semblance of protection you won't find in any other finishing material. Also, stains cover-up mill marks and other unwanted defects. You can transform a simple and bland piece of wood to become a highly valued product through staining.

Staining is not one process; it is several phases carried out sequentially to give a pleasing result. It will be assumed by a newbie that all you have to do is apply a stain, which is most often a highly colored fluid to the wood, and that will be all, no; you have to involve more highly intricate steps to actualize your intended project outcome. You have to integrate glazing, toning, and shading into the staining process. Staining the wood without the application of these steps will, in the majority of the time, give results that you won't be pleased with.

When the subject of staining comes up, all you have in mind is to alter your piece's color, and most times, you do not consider vital factors that will play a role in the process. For example, the ingredients from which the stain was made from, the reaction it will have with the wood, the rate of absorption, how deep it will penetrate different wood types, changes in the physical structure of the wood, how different species and varying parts of the same wood will react to staining. Based on these potential pitfalls related to staining, which are no fault of yours rather due to the bringing an inappropriate stain for a project, situations often arise, leading to folks shying away from this finishing method.

The Basics of Staining

For you to fully grasp what stains are all about, there is the need to study the chemical makeup of stains and how the reactions that occur when applied to the surface of woods. In this section, I will be touching on some essential areas about stains to bring you up to speed.

Dyes

These are substances that typically confer a color in naturally occurring plants in the environment. With the advancement in science and technology, you will also readily come across humanmade dyes mostly obtained as a byproduct from the fractional distillation of crude oil; due to the ease of production and the relatively lower costs, varieties, durability, it's most likely that you will find artificial dyes on the market compared to their natural counterparts. Dyes carry out the coloring action of the substance they are applied to by filling up the wood spaces, totally absorbed by the wood. Dyes are a utility coloring agent and hold on tight to the wood without needing to be held in place by a separate agent, e.g., a binder. The composition of dyes allowed it to remain in the solvent in which it was dissolved for a pretty long time without it separating, as you will find in pigments. Based on its ability to be dissolved by the appropriate solvents, you can capitalize on this by wiping off an application of dye with relative success if you aim to apply a color closely matching to the one you want to get rid of.

The type of solvent that will dissolve a dye varies, and this is due to the nature of the dye you aim to work with. Here are some common examples of solvents used in dye dissolution; alcohol, lacquer, water, and mineral spirits. When buying a dye, the type of solvent that it will be dissolved in will be inscribed on the pack. The mixing proportions and other directions will also be properly listed out for you to follow.

Water-soluble dyes are easy on your pocket, and the solvent used is environmentally friendly and less likely to cause any form of harm to humans.

When you check out the desirable qualities and other factors that you want to impart on your project based on the dye's type of solubility, the water-soluble dyes comes out tops because they don't fade as fast as the oil or alcohol soluble types. This quality is called "Lightfastness." The rate at which water-soluble dyes dry is quite slow, allowing the dyes to be thoroughly absorbed by the wood. This also allows you to correct mistakes and remove any surplus dyes from the application.

Adding any form of water to the wood surface, however, bring s about an undesirable consequence, an increase in the grain level. This negative side can be sidetracked by using glycol ether as the initial dissolving agent before adding the required quantities of lacquer and alcohol. When dissolved in such materials, these water-soluble dyes negate the raising of the grain while ensuring that the color retention properties are kept intact. With the addition of the chemical solvents, the staining project's total cost will skyrocket, and you will also be open to more toxicity in the immediate environment.

Pigments

Just like dyes, pigments were in the beginning natural compounds gotten from nature. When combined with most liquids, they are solid materials that will settle out due to their density levels, so you have to shake the container or mix the solution before it can be used. Nowadays, you will find artificially produced pigments more than you will the natural stuff. Unlike dyes that penetrate and are absorbed by the wood, pigments, on the other hand, get stuck in markings, gouges, holes, and other indentations on the surface of the wood.  If a relatively large amount of pigment is applied to any area on the surface of the wood with more concentration of markings, pores, etc., you will notice the distinct color variation when compared to other areas without such depressions. Other than the pigments settling into these areas on the surface, the staining can also be achieved by applying several layers of the material on the area of interest. The tone you hope to achieve will determine how many layers of the pigment you will apply; the darker the tone, the more the layers of pigment that will be needed.  We have touched on the two major staining agents, but do you know that some coloring agents are on the market that are a combination of these two? Some individuals favor it because it works well on thick woods.

Solvents and Binders

These are fluids that come in varying types. The mediums in which the dyes and pigments are dissolved in to enable the staining to be carried out. For pigments they are dissolved in the appropriate type of thinners while solvents are used for dyes. If a particular solvent or thinner is applied to the wrong dye or pigment, the dissolution to produce a satisfactory result will not be obtained.

The other substance of great importance is the binder, which is an agent that fixes the pigment directly to the wood. Suppose the binding agent is not present in the pigment-solvent mixture. In that case, the coloring will fade fast because immediately the solvent in which the pigment was dissolved dries off, the pigment will disperse into the atmosphere. Binders can be in the form of a water base, varnish, oil, or lacquer. The rate at which the binders cure also differs, affecting how often and fast you can get to remove the excess stains from the wooden surface. Environmental factors are also responsible for how fast the curing of the binders will be. The varnish type of binder cures faster when compared to the other types. If on the can of the binder the drying time is given by the manufacturer, you will be able to deduce if it is an oil-based binder or the varnish type.

If you have to wait long for the staining to be completed before applying a finish, you most likely have oil-based varnish. If you have this scenario playing out, you can patiently get rid of any excess stain as it doesn't cure that fast to prevent you from mopping up the unwanted stains. A simple test to check if you have oil-based binder or varnish is to get a flat ceramic plate, pour some of the binders on it, and let it stand for a minimum of twelve hours. When you check it, and it has a smooth surface and hard to the touch, you have a varnish binder. If, however, it is soft and forms tiny ridges, then you have an oil-based binder.

Having gone through some important factors on the types of stains and their physical properties, it all comes down to you to pick a stain that goes best with the project at hand and other variables that you are comfortable with. The stain been favored by the next woodworker might not be what you will want to use.

Stain Application

The process of applying stain to your wooden project can be divided into two main categories based on where and when the stain is applied to the wood. If the wooden piece has undergone some form of sealing, the coloring agent can be applied to the surface so that the wood absorbs little of the coloring. This ensures that you can prevent unwanted areas or features of the wood from coming to light. On the other hand, the stain can also be applied directly to the surface of the wood. This method penetrates deep into the wood, bringing to light every feature of the wood. In this method, the stain can be applied in several layers by wiping the first layer when it has cured. You might also decide to let the first layer be the only application; it all depends on the level of penetration and color tones you aim to achieve.

Going back to the sealed wood staining technique, you have complete charge of how far and deep you want the coloring agent to be absorbed by the wood. Glazing is a term used when the wood is sealed, and washcoating when there is a partial sealing. If you apply coloring in between different layers, it is termed toning.

With the glazing method, you first apply a coat of finish to the surface, stain it, and then coat again. Dyes are not used for glazing; rather, pigments are the go-to choice. Glazing offers immense aesthetic and protective properties to your wooden projects. Glazes are either oil-varnishes or water-based varnishes; the oil-varnish-based is easier to work with and does not react with the first coat of application onto which they are applied. Due to the nature of the solvent used, it is a major source of health concern, and adequate protective gear should be worn and carry out the staining process in a room with proper ventilation. 

In washcoating, you aim to have minimal staining to cover some form of mistakes, generally paint stains that cannot be easily gotten rid of.  The application of a finish that has been thoroughly thinned with materials such as shellac can be used. Another method is by pouring a sufficient amount of solvent on the wood surface and then staining the wood before the solvent dries out. Washcoating aims to cut down on the amount of coloring that penetrates the wood. You can also carry out a slight sanding of the surface after washcoating before you stain the wood if your goal is to allow a bit more of the stain to be absorbed by the wood. Washcoating is an art that requires practice to know how much should be carried out to produce the level of color penetration needed for the project.

Toners

This is a technique or an alternative avenue that you can explore in your wooden projects' coloring. The coloring agent used can be any of the two major types that we have touched on earlier (dye or pigment) combined with the correct proportion of finishes. Preparing your toners or shading stain involves combining the right type of dye or pigment and oil-based finish, lacquer, or water-based finish. When talking about toners and shading stains, a newbie may assume that they are two different colorants, but that's far from the truth. Do not get confused whenever you come across these terms as the materials are the same save for the end-use. The difference is based on the method of application and what the intended use is. For example, toning is employed to slightly alter the color of a wooden project's total surface area. At the same time, shading, on the other hand, is used to deepen the tone or color of specific areas.

The application method is by using a spray gun, and once it has been applied, you cannot touch, try to adjust it in any way as this will mess it up. My choice of solvent used in toning is the lacquer because of the favorable curing rate that ensures I don't have to wait for long periods before I can get done with the process.

The coloring agent used has an eventual outcome on how your project will turn out. If a dye is used, the color on the surface of the coat is marginally altered, while the pigment type obstructs the wood's features. When applying the toner or shading, spray ever marginally thinly and gradually build up the color tone you want. This slow application ensures that you do not overshoot how dark you want the color tone to be. If the toning level has not been achieved, you can always apply another level of thin spray. If, on the other hand, you apply it too fast and thick till the point that the color applied becomes too thick and dark, you won't be able to adjust it without removing everything and staring all over again.

Chapter Five

Pore Filling

The look and feel of all wood types vary due to the presence of pores. The presence, size, and how packed or dispersed the pores will determine how coarse or smooth the wood's surface will be. For example, certain woods have a combination of small and large pores packed in some areas and sparse in other places; thus, you will discover that such woods are rough to touch and fine to the hands in different parts of the wood. Other woods have large pores distributed evenly all over the wood, thus making the wood have a fine texture. If the pores are small and evenly spread over the wood's surface, you will also have a fine-textured wooden surface.

The pores and their unique characteristics go a long way in producing an outcome that will be desirable or not after the finish has been applied to it. The finish application is aimed to alter the texture of the wood surface. The nature, method, and type of finish applied will determine if a new look will be achieved or if the wood will still maintain the look of the original wood surface. To favorably alter the surface texture and look, the pores should be filled. A shiny, clean, and glass-like appearance can be obtained through this method. The type and method of filling the pores are determined by the pores' size and the filling agent used.

For example, when large pores are to be worked on, use a paste wood filler, and a finish is easier to be used for pores of relatively small sizes.

The paste used as pore fillers are made from silica, a binding agent, and coloring. The wood color determines the coloring agent used; this can be worked on by you if you are making your filler. Many individuals often mistake wood putty that serves as a filling agent for larger deformities on wood surfaces with a paste wood filler. The wood putty has a water binding agent, while the paste wood filler usually has an oil-based varnish. To increase the weight and add strength to the material, you will discover that the wood putty has wood dust added to it, and the paste wood filler uses silica. The commonly available paste wood fillers are a water-based and oil-based variety. The oil-based paste wood filler tends to take a longer time to dry if the oil percentage to the varnish composition is higher. This can extend the curing time, and you will have to wait for it to be completely dry before you can apply the finish or coating. If the filler is not completely dried before moving on, you will most definitely run into some rough waters. If time is of the essence, go with the water-based fillers, which dry relatively faster. A drawback to using the water-based filler is that you have to work fast as it dries quickly, giving you little time to correct errors.

Filling pores with finish involves applying several layers of coating and then using a sander to level the elevated areas of the pores to match the low areas around it. As usual, go with a fast curing base and avoid oil-based types. The process of sanding is called cutting, and this can be done individually for each layer as your apply, or you wait until all the layers have been applied, then you can carry out the cutting at the same time. Be precise and apply patience when cutting to avoid digging into areas that you have filled, as this can lead to irreparable destruction. A scraper and sandpaper are two essential tools that you can use for the cutting process.

Chapter Six

Stripping

This is the stage in the whole finishing and maintenance process of the surfaces of your wooden pieces. Unlike finishers and coating agents that might or might not have solvents toxic to humans, strippers are entirely composed of toxic substances. Thus, manufacturers are compelled by law to identify them on the packaging. The choice of stripper you intend to use should be based on the solvent type used in the manufacturing process, how much it costs, how easy it is to use, the toxicity of the solvent to humans and the environment.

The following are the major fluids or solvents used in the manufacturing of strippers; N-methyl pyrrolidone (NMP), methylene chloride (MC), dibasic esters (DBE) and acetone, toluene, and methanol (ATM). Sometimes you will find these compounds combined in various rations to give a product with certain beneficial characteristics. Other than the common groups listed above, you can also strip with the aid of ammonia and lye. Ammonia, most times, is used jointly with appropriate fluids to make it strip better. You should be aware that lye is a very strong agent that tends to attack other parts of the project other than the coating and finishing that you want to get rid of. With this in mind, always make sure you use it with caution and wipe it off the surface immediately you are done with.

Lye has been around for a long time, and due to its strength, it can have damaging effects on joints, the wood itself, and other finishing if not quickly wiped off.  When lye is to be used, you should use as little as possible, for hard to remove finishing, etc. When you come across a paint that has resisted all other forms of stripping, lye can come into play. To get the right concentration of lye to use, 0.113kg lye should be poured into 4 liters of water. Ensure that you pour the lye into the water to avoid the sudden heat and evaporation from blowing up straight into your face. Make use of a metal bucket, not aluminum or any other material.  Mix the combination to fully dissolve it and then apply it with a brush to the wood's surface. Allow it to stay for a few minutes and then wash with it an equal parts water-vinegar solution to end the solution. It is a must that you wash it off with this solution as wiping alone will not eliminate the lye, which will gradually damage your piece.

The Stripper of Choice

The stripper you choose to use is dependent on three major factors; the price, how effective it is, and the attendant health risks associated with using such toxic chemicals. When dealing with tough finishing and coatings, strippers made from methylene chloride and various combinations of these solvents are best. Still, they are toxic and can bring about serious health challenges. There is a sort of inverse relationship between the price of the strippers and how toxic they are. The most toxic and effective strippers are most often the cheapest, while those that pose little or no danger to your health and are not as strong as the most effective strippers cost far less. For example, I will recommend a DBE stripper if time is not of the essence, and your health is of importance.

Thinners and Solvents

Understanding how thinners and solvents work is an art and the knowledge you gather through years of experience and working with such materials and wood. Before we dive into the nitty-gritty, it is important that you can differentiate between a thinner and a solvent. A thinner in its simplest form dilutes or thins another fluid while a solvent liquefies a solid. Water will thin water-based materials. For example, you need to know that a lacquer thinner is a thinning and solvent agent for any water-based material, shellac, and catalyzed lacquer. Alcohol will thin and dissolve shellac strongly, and it acts rather weakly on a water base and lacquer. Turpentine, naphthalene, and spirits are thinning and solvent agents for varnish, oil, and wax.

Lacquer

This is an artificially produced substance with all the advantages and qualities that a thinner or solvent should possess. It is relatively cheap, protects materials from moisture absorption and reactions against everyday chemicals. Due to these qualities, you will find it in almost every woodworker's workshop. There are two principal types of lacquer on the market; the less commonly available and expensive cellulose acetate butyrate and the more widely accepted and used nitrocellulose. The nitrocellulose is the main component of this type of lacquer, and it contains other materials to varying degrees. Nitrocellulose is obtained by putting cotton balls that contains a large amount of cellulose through some form of treatment. This bulk material cannot singlehandedly carry out the functions that we want it to, so therefore substances such as sulphuric acid, resins, plasticizers, and nitric acid, when added, will give an end product called lacquer. The lacquer is typically not uniform as you will come across lacquers having different strength levels, color, levels of resistance to chemical substances, etc. The price is determined by how much resistance the material can put up against alkalis, acids and solvents, and other desirable qualities such as color and tensile properties. You should select one that will work well with your projects.

Features of Lacquer

Due to the component solvent, the curing rate of lacquers is quite fast, thus requiring a spray gun's services for its application. The following are some characteristics of lacquer that you should look out for;

It can be easily repaired and removed.

The application method can be carried out by almost anyone with a spray gun.

It rubs very well

There is an amazing variety in color and strength types

It is very affordable.

It cures very fast, allowing you to apply several coats within a few hours.

They come in various forms allowing for a wide range of applications to different project types.

This amazing product also has some downsides such as its inability to protect against scratches, the required amount of potentially large amounts of dangerous chemicals in its production, low protection against some form of chemical attacks, etc.

Lacquer Application

The type of lacquer and its properties are based on the components that make up the product, most importantly, the solvent agents. The solvent liquefies most of the ingredients, and it is directly related to how fast it cures. With the different types of solvents used, you should expect to have different times of curing. If you want a fast curing time, check or prepare a lacquer having a fast evaporating time. The following are some of the commercially available lacquers; fast lacquer thinner, lacquer retarder, a lacquer form with a slower curing rate than the other two types; the standard lacquer thinner cures at a normal rate when compared against other forms of solvents.

In applying a lacquer thinner to a project, the three major groups discussed above are hardly ever used in isolation except for the standard lacquer type. Situations might arise in which you want the curing done faster or slower; in such cases, all you need to do is combine the appropriate lacquer thinner type to achieve the desired results, e.g., when you need to keep the surface moist. At the same time, you work on it to carry out repairs when the temperature is not ideal so that you can add some form of finishing like brushing to the sprayed lacquer, etc.

The Downside of Lacquer

Despite its advantages on woodworks, lacquer, more importantly, the thinner used in its production is a health hazard that can bring about deterioration of your vital organs. When working with lacquer, it should be done in an airy room with proper ventilation, the presence of an exhaust fan, and a recommended respirator should be adorned at all times. These materials are also highly flammable, and they shouldn't be used in any area where there is a fire or any other form of sparks that can lead to an explosion. Considering the massive downsides and if you can avoid using lacquer in your finishing, kindly try out other suitable substances that will give you as close a result that you will get with lacquer.

Shellac

This is a dark horse that has been relegated to the sideline and overlooked by many woodworkers who are not aware of the massive potentials that this material has. It is resin gotten from insects in Asia, collected from the trees where the insects live, and undergoes some form of production before it can be used.  There is more focus on its inability to perform certain tasks such as longevity and protection against certain elements than its unique abilities. Though the product doesn't stay long in storage conditions, it has an amazing staying power when applied to decades-long projects. It has a strong protective ability against common environmental conditions, perfect for repairing, and compatible with other finish types; it is non-toxic as some of its ingredients can be found in our everyday foods. Of utmost importance is the solvent used, which is a form of alcohol, and this does not cause any health challenges as you will find in lacquer

Shellac is a natural amber-colored substance with some wax; with some processing, you can have slight variations of this. Shellac comes in the form of either solid flakes or a fluid. The liquid shellac can be used directly onto the wooden surface, or you can add some form of thinners to reduce the concentration. The solid form needs to be dissolved with denatured alcohol before it can be used. To get the right 'cut,' you need to dissolve a weighed amount of the solid shellac in a proportional amount of alcohol. If you want a higher cut or concentration of shellac, you will need to dissolve a higher weight of the solid form in 4 liters of alcohol. The higher the weight, the more the cut and the thicker will be the eventual fluid produced. The major advantage of producing your cut is that you can always produce it when needed, as shellac has poor storage qualities. Immediately the alcohol comes in contact with the flakes, the advantageous qualities that shellac has begin to fade away. Its curing abilities and protective qualities start to dwindle; hence, the earlier it is used, the better. If you produced your mixture, do not let it store for more than four to six months before you completely use it.  Follow the simple steps outlined below to produce a fresh batch of shellac;

Pour the carefully measured materials into a bucket or container, do not use any metal ones.

Get a wooden or plastic stirrer, and mix the contents of the bucket, intermittently every two to three hours for about twelve hours. This prevents the sedimentation of the solids.

The container containing the mixture should be kept sealed to prevent any reaction between the alcohol and the atmosphere.

After the solid shellac's proper dissolution, use a muslin cloth to sieve and get a pure fluid without any unwanted substances.

Label the container, indicate the time and date of production.

You can also check if it is still usable before applying it to the surface by taking a little quantity of the available cut and putting it on a ceramic or glass surface. Let it stay there for at least twelve hours to cure. After this number of hours, touch it and check if it has hardened. If it feels hard to touch, it has undergone some form of curing; you should, however, wait for about three to four days to be certain that it is still good to use. If the shellac is relatively soft after the initial twelve hours, it should be discarded as it will not cure.

Shellac comes in the original amber color and one that has undergone bleaching to remove the color. The yellow or orange shellac has a longer storage life than the bleached ones as the coloring pigments act as a form of preservative. This applies to both the solid and fluid forms. Shellac that has deteriorated when applied will be gummy and never cure; you will have to remove it totally. Do not under any circumstance try to apply a new coat over it without first removing the unwanted layer.

Despite its many favorable qualities, shellac also has quite a number of downsides that a woodworker should pay close attention to as not to make costly mistakes in the end. During the shellac preparation, make sure that the alcohol does not contain excess water, as this can bring about a condition commonly referred to as blushing. To observe this phenomenon, apply a few drops of water on a shellac finishing and let it sit for some days. You will notice that the whitish boundary will have formed, and this is called a ring. If the shellac does not contain wax, you will not likely encounter this problem. This condition can also be seen when you open the container containing the shellac is not airtight, thus permitting oxygen and moisture in the atmosphere to get into it.  Avoid chemical substances such as lye, phosphate-containing substances, borax, etc. to contact a shellac finish as this will be problematic. This is a major reason why a shellac finish is not to be used on a high contact surface. 

It is prudent and advisable not to keep hot objects on surfaces finished with shellac, as this will result in a slight melting of the area and disfiguring it. Another material that can cause problems to a shellac finish is alcohol. If there is an accident and some of it gets on a shellac finish, the rate of damage that will be observed is solely dependent on how long it is allowed to remain on the shellac and the concentration of the alcohol.

Shellac is easily applied to surfaces either by using a spray gun or by gently polishing it with a brush onto the wood's surface.

Varnish

With this finish, you are guaranteed to get the best quality in a finish that you want. Some of the amazing properties of this finish includes its ability to protect against moisture content, chemical attack, excessive temperature changes, and much more. The curing rate is perfect. The only downside that I can point a finger to is that its application can be a nightmare to even the most experienced hands. The curing time can also be long, thus allowing dust to settle onto the finish.  In a typical manufacturing process of this finish, the following ingredients are combined; resins of various types which are more commonly artificial as against those used in the earlier days that were obtained from the sap of various trees, a curing oil such as tung or linseed oil and a drying agent. The mixture is then cooked to obtain the final product.

Nowadays, the resin of choice used as an ingredient in the varnish production is the artificial substance polyurethane, which has high tensile strength and protects quite well against environmental and mechanical damages. In addition to the two main ingredients (the oil and the resin), a final ingredient is added to speed up the curing process. This material is called a drier, and they are typically metallic in nature, e.g., zinc, manganese, and cobalt. When producing your varnish, caution should be exercised not to add too much drier as it can result in the curing to be a bit too hard and flaky, which will not serve the purpose for which it was intended for.

The percentage of the two main ingredients ( resin and oil) used in the varnish production is of great importance as a high composition of oil will make the varnish soft, and too much resin will result in the varnish been a bit too hard. A varnish having a higher proportion of resin is commonly referred to as a medium oil or short oil varnish, and that with a higher percentage of oil is called the long oil varnish. The long oil varnish is commonly used on projects that will remain outdoors, while you will find the other type of varnish used for indoor wooden projects. The soft nature of the long oil varnish can protect and stretch along with the wood as it contracts and expands due to the environmental conditions. Indoors, however, wood movement and everyday use, which might bring about wear and tear, scratches on the wood surface, and other reactions, are best handled by applying either the medium oil or short oil varnish.

The type of resin used in the varnish production should also be taken into consideration as they impact some important features of the product as a whole. The phenolic resin is a strong curing agent and, at the same time, soft enough to be applied to potentially movable parts of an outdoor project. When the oil component is relatively high, the end product will be a water-resistant and soft varnish. The alkyd resin is readily available because of its affordability and because it gets the job done adequately. The last of the major types of resins are the polyurethane, which produces a product with great features when mixed with the alkyd. However, it has some unwanted characteristics, such as its bonding abilities after curing with other types of finishes. Its color is another downside as it is opaque, whitish looks if not properly handled on the product will have a nasty effect on the wood surface. This varnish is best used for indoor projects that are not put in the sun's direct path as the varnish reacts with the sunrays and disintegrates.

Varnish Application

Due to its relatively long time for curing, you will hardly find varnish been used widely as it should have been. For example, before you can apply a second or third layer, you will probably have to wait for a few days. The best method of application is to use a brush as a spray gun can bring about undesirable results as it leaves some solid particles vapors in the air that settles on the varnished surfaces, marring your work. With varnish, you can't just apply a single coat and be done with it due to the film's thinness. You have to apply at least two to three layers to achieve an acceptable level of thickness to offer some measure of protective abilities.

The environmental conditions during the application process also goes a long way in affecting how fast the varnish will cure. If the weather conditions are slightly warm, your varnish will cure a bit faster than when the weather is cool. If you are working on a hot day and don't want the varnish to cure too fast because you want to apply some brush marks to it, you can add some thinning agents, e.g., mineral spirits to the varnish. However, on a cold day, when the curing rate will be significantly reduced, you can set up a warmer within the workspace. Ensure that this is adequately protected. No moving parts or other sensitive parts of the machine are exposed due to the flammable nature of the varnish and other finishing agents that might be in the vicinity.

Water-Based Finishes

With the general populace becoming more environmentally conscious due to greenhouse gases, most finishes containing solvents that are harmful to the environment and human health are being sidelined. Water-based finishes contain relatively little harmful solvents. The solvents used in a water-based finish are acrylic, and sometimes polyurethane passed into a water medium. The term water base is used to make it unique instead of other forms of finishes containing no water. Based on the water content of this type of finish, it won't be ideal to be used on furniture and other wooden products that will most likely be coming in contact with water and other chemical substances. In most water-based finishes, you will find aerosolized acrylic or polyurethane and some glycol. However, the polyurethane can be optional as it makes the fluid cloudy, and this is not a desirable feature. An easy way to identify if the finish you intend buying is a water-based type is to carefully read the can and check if you can use water to clean or thin the fluid. Any other material other than water is an indication that it is not a water-based finish.

Features

With the addition of polyurethane sometimes to a water-based finish, you will be able to derive this artificial resin's unique features. Other than that, water-based finishes do not possess as many protective capabilities that you might want. For example, it does not serve as a good barrier against water both in the liquid and gaseous form, heat, and chemical attack. A water-based finish by itself is a good finish, but you should be aware of its limitations so that you don't get to spend time and effort on a project coating only for it to get damaged by your everyday materials.

A typical water-based finish is colorless, and this works well with certain projects, but if color is needed in the finish and you want a water-based finish used, you will have to add some form of coloring agents to the finish. You can either introduce the coloring agent, preferably a dye, to the finish or stain the wooden surface and allow it to cure properly before you apply the water-based finish.

With the name 'water-base,' you might assume that there are no solvents in the mixture; you are wrong. There is always some form of solvent in it. However, it is typically less in quantity to the solvent-based finishes that have a higher percentage of the total mixture been solvents in one form or another. You don't have to scout for a perfect solvent to clean up spills or your application equipment. However, time is of the essence in cleaning a water-based finish from a surface or from your equipment by using water. If the finish is allowed to stay on that surface and cure, you won't be able to use water in washing it away; a solvent other than water will do the job.

With the reduced content of highly flammable solvents, a fire outbreak's probabilities and other dangers are drastically reduced. You can work conveniently in an environment with reduced airflow without the fear of inhaling toxic fumes.

Water-Based Finish Application

The equipment used in applying a solvent-based finish can also be used in applying a water-based finish. Water, however, can be a source of some unintended problems due to its nature. For example, water inclusion in finishes of this nature can cause problems such as challenges in the application in unfavorable weather conditions, raising the grain, reduced flow, and rusting.

Chapter Seven

Finish Selection

When it comes to finish selection, there is no magic finish that covers all types of projects. Projects come in varying forms, and their needs as regards finishing are also unique. With this in mind, you should know the specific type of finish that will go well with the project at hand. There are some important factors that you should consider carefully before picking a finish to use; protective abilities, safety concerns, the look, application procedure, etc.

Protective Abilities

One of the goals of applying a finish to your project's surface is to slow as much as possible or cut out the potentials of water or water vapor from getting in and out of the wood. The persistent presence of water on wooden projects results in raising the grain, failure of the joints splits, etc. Generally, a thin application of finishes won't have many protective functions compared to several layers of the finish. The nature of the finish also comes into play as a single layer of one finish might offer more protection than two or three layers of another type of finish. Finishes having a significant amount of oil cannot give a significant barrier against water vapor and water. Water base and lacquer offer little to nothing regarding water resistance, while the varnish finish is the best.

Safety Concerns

With the presence of relatively toxic solvents present in the finishers in different amounts, they are a source of danger to you. It doesn't matter the finisher type, be it a water-based finisher or the solvent type; they all contain one form of solvent or the other. To reduce the impact on your health, work in well-aerated rooms, make use of a respirator, and ensure you check its usability regularly to confirm that it is still serving its purpose. The product you are working on will most likely end up with a client. When you are through with the application of the finish and it gets to the end-user, there should be no form of evaporation or release of potentially harmful substances from the product into the home or environment. The effect of solvents on the environment is a subject of debate, but the results are glaring as they contain gases and substances that cause global warming. It is best to make use of finishes having minute or no quantity of such substances.

The Look

How do you want the finish to appear after application and curing? The finish method depends on how effective it will be when applied in thick or thin layers and how the surface of the wood will appear. Some forms of finishes do not do well when applied thickly as the obscure, unique features of the wood, and they can easily crack when pressure is applied. Generally, it is best when a thin film of finish is applied. When it comes to color, the water-based type of finish is colorless unless you apply a dye to it; the shellac has a distinguishing amber color. You must have noticed that some finishing gradually turn a shade of yellow as the years go by; this is due to the presence of oil in the finish, which is most times a wanted feature if the yellow color won't mar or affect the original color of the wood.

Application Procedure

No one wants to go through any form of unwarranted stress and troubles to get a fine film of finish and coating onto a wood surface. We all want to get this done easily, and this stage is hinged on how fast the curing takes place and the equipment used to apply the finish. If the finish applied takes a long time to cure and is not properly wiped, impurities and unwanted materials will settle. Looking at the other types of finishes also, there are some that cures fast, and trying to apply some brushing might be difficult. Specific finishes have different modes of application, e.g., oil finishes can be applied by rubbing, wax finishes do not go well with a spray gun.

Other factors that you can consider in selecting a finish to use include and are not limited to; the ease of removal of the finish, how durable it is in protecting against chemical attack and wear and tear, etc.

Chapter Eight

The Completion

After applying the finishing agent of choice, to ensure that the longevity, aesthetics, and other desirable features are gotten, you will have to finish the finish. You might have applied the best finish for that project and carried out all the necessary precautions and steps, but if you don't finish the finish, the quality which is supposed to have been obtained will be lost. During the finish application, the surface of the wood will not be as smooth as it should be as there will be undulating layers, the settling of impurities such as clouds of dust, etc. This, therefore, necessitates the need for a complete rubbing down of the surface with the aid of steel wool, a variety of rubbing compounds, or sandpaper. You can also use other materials such as soapy water, the appropriate lubricants, or using all of these agents and tools in unison. A surface that has not undergone a rubbing finish has this glaring, ugly shiny appearance that is not pleasing to the eyes compared to that which has undergone a rubbing finishing.

The finish's rubbing should not be a step to be overlooked as it slightly dulls the glare of the original finish. It also puts unique markings on the surface that, in addition to beautifying the wood, also covers potentially ugly marks. Well applied scratches that are fine to the touch will make the surface smooth and increase the soft appearance and glow.

The lack of understanding of what a rubbing down of the finish confers on the surface of the wood and the fear of the unknown is why you must have noticed that many folks avoid this process. This is a relatively simple procedure that can be carried out with the necessary implements. To finish the finish, first gently rub it with a steel wool ball followed by sanding it down with sandpaper of fine grit, then rubbing it again with steel wool. This is the basics of the whole idea. You can go several steps further to apply more rubbing downs until you achieve the sheen you want.

Before you begin the rubbing of a finish, you need to put some factors into consideration, e.g., rubbing lubricants, the finish to be worked on, the degree of curing that the finish has undergone, rubbing tools to be used, the cleaning process, how often the rubbing will take place and the polishing. Finishes react differently to rubbing with those that are hard been the best, e.g., lacquer and shellac. They produce precise and well-defined marks, while those that are tough tends to give ugly and random pulls rather than cuts, e.g., water-based finishes and varnish. It is also pertinent that the finish is allowed to cure properly before rubbing down. Anything done before this will produce an uneven and surface with large gaping holes everywhere. The rubbing of finish is not a job that should be rushed. There is no laid down time frame as to when you should rub the finish, but to be on the safe side, you should wait for at least 45 days. The essence of adding a lubricating agent to the rubbing down process is to keep the rubbing uniform and prevent the waste been generated from floating into the air and been inhaled. The commonly available lubricants on the market are wax either in the semi-solid or liquid form, soapy water, naphtha, or oil.

From the sanding subject, you will recall that you need to clean the surface and the sanding paper regularly in between sanding to prevent specks of dust and other materials from marking the surface of the wood. The cleaning can be done with a clean piece of rag or a compressor. At other times when a lubricating agent has been applied to ease the finishing, you will need to properly wash off the accumulated materials with the aid of the appropriate fluid. When the rubbing is done, the final touch should be applying a fine layer of wax to further protect the wood. Pick a wax of a color matching the wood on which it should be applied to.

Degradation of Finishes

After the finish application, it will begin to undergo several forms of decay, degradation, deterioration due to environmental conditions, mechanical and physical effects, and chemical reactions. The rate at which finishes get damaged through everyday use, and mechanical actions varies from one finish to another. Light oxidizes finish and coating gradually bring ing about a fading of the pigments and dyes. If a fully coated furniture is left in the direct path of sunrays within the house or outside, the finish will degrade pretty faster than that left in a cool and well-shaded area. Another slow process that occurs irrespective of the type of finish used is oxidation. The chemical compounds making up the finishes will react with atmospheric oxygen through a process called oxidation. The end product is usually darker in color when compared to the initial color when it was applied.

Here are several ways to slow down these processes as you cannot stop it.

-      Keep your furniture and other wooden artifacts in cool rooms with a fairly constant temperature.

Wax the wooden surface regularly as this offers a form of protection and brings out the wooden pieces' beauty. You should make use of paste wax as this doesn't evaporate, unlike liquid polish. Typically, the wax comes in solid forms at room temperature, and to determine how much gloss such a wax will provide, you will have to know the melting point of wax. Examples of wax that can be used in protecting your finishes include and are not limited to; carnauba wax, synthetic wax, and beeswax. Hard waxes are combined with some form of fluids, e.g., paraffin, to bring down the melting point and tone down the gloss. This makes it easier to apply and does not impact an awkward sheen to the finish. 

-      Other than the applied finishes, you can also make use of some form of protection on wooden surfaces that see a lot of use, e.g., tablecloths

So what essential features should you look out for when deciding on which type of finish to use?

-      A finish that has a sweet fragrance and not those having a harsh artificial smell.

-      A finish that can be cleaned easily.

-      A finish that does not evaporate rapidly.

With the inevitable damages that occur to the finishes, you can get to repair it through the following ways;

-      Recoating or applying another layer of finish.

-      Rub in a coat of wax thoroughly into the surface of the wooden project.

For fixing color problems brought about as a result of the effects of heat or water rings, you must get rid of the water from the finish before you can fix it. There are several ways of going about this, but I will explain the easiest technique for you. To the affected spots, apply an oily based fluid, e.g., petroleum. Get a soft piece of cloth and apply some denatured alcohol to it. Gently rub the damaged area and then get a toothpaste and apply it to the spot and rub with steel wool. Be careful with the rubbing so as not to cut too deep, thus damaging the finish. There is no partial fixing of that specific area; you will most likely have to remove the finish from the surface and carry out a new round of finish application.

Some surfaces will suffer physical damages that will leave deep markings on them. To fix this easily, get a fluid finish and gently pour it into the affected places. After it has cured properly, cut and sand it to the levels of areas around it.

Other Books by the Author

Cricut Design Space for Beginners: A Step-by-Step Guide to Mastering Cricut Design Space and Cricut Explore Air 2 with Illustrated Cricut Project Ideas

Master your Cricut Design Space and Cricut Explore Air 2 with this ultimate guide!

Your Cricut Machine is a piece of engineering ingenuity with some beautiful ergonomics and durable parts. However, if not correctly understood, it will not give you the desired results. Also, the Cricut Design Space that comes along with the machine needs to be studied, how to put it to use to maximize its potentials, troubleshooting, etc. Failing to harness the powers of the hardware and software altogether will only lead to frustration.

How do you go about combining the Cricut Design Space and Cricut Explore Air 2 to fully complement your skillset to churn out masterpieces time after time? Please read and understand everything explained in this book as it treats in detail the Cricut Design Space and Cricut Explore Air 2. Also, there are numerous hints on how to navigate the world of Cricut. You will also find some project ideas to get you started if you are a newbie or an experienced hand that needs some refreshers. 

You will learn the following; 

•          Setting up your Cricut machine

•          Installing and setting up the Cricut Design Space on your PC and iOS devices

•          Picking the best Cricut machine for you

•          Mastering the Cricut Design Space, Cricut Explore Air 2, and Cricut Maker

•          How to upload images on Cricut Design Space

•          Accessing over a 100,000 images and 500 fonts to create projects

•          Compatible Cricut materials

•          Unique project ideas to get you comfortable with your Cricut journey

•          Identifying and troubleshooting common problems

•          Cutting vinyl and other materials with your Cricut machine

•          And so much more

All that you need is explained in easy to understand terms with accompanying images to guide you.  If you want to play around and develop your skills or you aim to create a viable business by producing beautiful crafts, you will find all that you need, notwithstanding your proficiency level. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KH2JJW3

The Exclusive Cricut Project Ideas Guide: The Beginners Step by Step Manual with Amazing Projects and Mastering the Art of How to Use your Cricut (Bonus; Cricut EasyPress Mini Guide and Projects)

Ingenious Cricut Project ideas for everyone!

This is a follow up from my book  "The Simple Beginners Guide to Cricut Explore Air 2: A Manual on how to Setup Cricut, Design Space, Cricut Project Ideas, Troubleshooting, and Essential Tips"  which introduced beginners to the world of Cricut and some relatively simple project ideas. In this book, which is dedicated to Cricut projects, you will find a great variety of projects that beginners, as well as professionals, can create with the Cricut machine.

Everything you need from the Cricut machine, supplies, methods to apply in churning out amazing projects time, and time again will be found within the pages of this book. Not mind the title of the book, there is something for everyone which you can fine-tune to your unique taste. The directions for each project are not cast in stone, and you can always make alterations here and there. The projects cover almost any form of  Cricut designs  that you can think of. From the projects that I have given you a step by step guide on, you can fashion out other similar projects that catch your fancy.

What you will find includes and is not limited to ;

• Projects that you can create on the Cricut Explore Air 2, Cricut EasyPress Mini, Cricut Explore One

•Cricut projects with vinyl

•Cricut projects with iron-on

•Cricut projects with faux leather

•How to etch on glass using Cricut

The project ideas listed out in this book can be carried out on the following Cricut machines;

•Cricut Expression

•Cricut Explore One

•Cricut Explore Air 2

•Cricut Explore Air

•Cricut Maker

The Cricut machine is designed to be as user-friendly as possible, and you don't need to be a geek to get your projects out of it in a heartbeat. Understanding how the machine works and producing amazing projects will become second nature to you in a few hours of reading my books and putting the  tips and hints  to work. The projects in this book will push you towards discovering the best in you and how you can go about creating unique projects.

Start with the projects you are most comfortable with and build your confidence level as you go onto harder projects. Leap into the world of Cricut Projects, and let the fantastic world of your imagination come to life.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1678544272

The Simple Woodcarving Book for Beginners: Simple Techniques for Relief Carving, Easy Step-by-Step Beginner-Friendly Projects, and Patterns with Photographs

Getting started with woodcarving or any other form of art can be a bit daunting. You are at a loss on the type of equipment and tools to purchase the simple projects that your skill level can start with. Mr. Clayon M. Rines has got you all covered with everything to get you started as a novice woodcarver or an experienced hand looking to refresh your wealth of knowledge.

The Simple Woodcarving Book for Beginners, Simple Techniques for Relief Carving, Easy Step-by-Step Beginner-Friendly Projects and Patterns with photographs is a personal guide with a passionate teacher. You will learn how to make those clean cuts in different ways, sharpening your tools and putting the finishing touches on your work.

Your desire to master this age-long art of woodcarving has brought you this far, and this passion will be fueled and guided with everything you will be learning from the pages of this book. Clayton M. Rines will expose you to secrets of the trade, such as the basic cuts, smoothening techniques, how to carve contours, and the essentials or relief carving.

The directions to follow for each method are clearly explained and accompanied by photographs to further breakdown the process. What do you need to get that first project done? This book in your hands, a few well-honed essential cutting tools and a piece of softwood, and you will be on your way to carving the most amazing and exquisite objects that will continuously recharge your bank account, serve as gift items to friends and loved ones and give you joy unlimited. With your desire to fully understand everything about carving in relief and producing masterpieces, this all-encompassing book on woodcarving will enlighten you and show you the best way to go about it.

From when the idea comes to you, the initial cut to the final finishing touches, these steps will guide you every step of the way; •Step-by-Step practice projects with visual guides to build your confidence levels• Types of woods, tools and your workspace, finishing •Basic and well-explained carving techniques• Detailed directions• Carving relief projects• Maintaining and keeping your tools well-honed and in perfect condition. It doesn't matter if you are a novice or a professional carver; this is the book you should get and expand your woodcarving horizon!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084P6T7Q3

The Beginners Modern Calligraphy and Hand Lettering Guide for Relaxation: A Step-by-Step Manual on Creative Lettering Techniques with Workbook and Project Ideas

This book is all you could ever need in your journey into the beautiful world of modern calligraphy.

With this beginners' in-depth guide on the art of modern calligraphy and hand lettering, you will gain immeasurable inspiration and knowledge about this timeless art form. This book is designed with all classes of people in mind; it doesn't matter if you are an experienced hand or newbie; there is something for you. You will learn how to fashionable write beautiful and well-crafted letters that will develop into your signature style, which will then evolve into masterpieces. 

In this jet age, there is this emptiness and a gaping hole in the link we have with writing both for communication and as an avenue of artistic expression. Modern calligraphy and hand lettering is a link with this lost part of our history.  Modern calligraphy  fills the void in us and, at the same time, creates beautiful letters that are a sight to behold. With simple and, at the same time, fancy projects that you will get to learn, you will develop the vital habit of learning how to calm yourself while deriving happiness simultaneously. 

The beginning of the journey can seem a bit daunting at first, but with constant practice and following the guidelines within this book, you will, in no time, develop the skill and confidence needed to take on complex and simple designs.  

The Beginners Modern Calligraphy and Hand Lettering Guide for Relaxation  is a must-have book for learning the art of lettering and calligraphy in a stepwise and gradual fashion. You will learn how to morph your regular handwriting into beautiful calligraphic and fancy letters. There are tons of project ideas that you can use as gifting projects or for commercial purposes. 

While you aim for the perfect writing experience, you should also have at the back of your mind that this is a beautiful way through which you can get to heal, calm yourself, and relieve stress. You will fall down a few times; these are learning experiences that should not be the end of your calligraphy lessons, but a step towards discovering inner peace and also elevating your hand lettering skills. 

Within the pages of this book, you will learn ;

What modern calligraphy is

Commonly used terms in calligraphy

Supplies needed to get started with your journey.

How to draw small and upper case letters

•          Brush pen calligraphy

•          Faux Calligraphy

Warm-up exercises

Sample workbook

Project ideas

And so much more!

Get started with your journey into the beautiful world of calligraphy today by  CLICKING the BUY  button now.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088B96JRQ

The Bonsai Beginners Guide: A Step-by-Step Manual on Cultivating, Growing, Caring for and Displaying your Bonsai Tree with Illustrations

Becoming a sensei in the timeless art of cultivating and loving a Bonsai tree is at your fingertips

You must have come across some of these beautiful and breathtaking miniature trees, and the thought of growing and caring for one crossed your mind. Caring and cultivating for the  Bonsai  is not all about the tree as you also derive immense satisfaction in being able to dedicate time to seeing your work come out excellently in the end. The whole process also has a soothing effect on the mind and you will learn to take your time in dealing with other aspects of your life without being in haste. 

This  ancient art from the Far East  has slowly but surely crept into our consciousness in the West in its purest form. The art of  growing bonsai trees  is like no other as it acts as an air purifier, relieves stress, and the joy and fulfillment that you get at the end of it all cannot be surpassed by any other hobby that I know about. This pastime is most certainly going to be with us for a relatively long time. 

This all-encompassing manual will enlighten you about what it entails to bring up a bonsai tree lovingly and to see it flourish under your care. You will be provided with the basics, techniques, invaluable tips that will take you from a newbie to a professional without breaking a sweat in a flash. 

In this manual, you will find ;

The enthralling history of this plant

The different varieties of the bonsai tree and techniques for selecting trees

The proper way to pick the arrangement and placing of your bonsai tree based on your choices and the time of the year

Things to look out for and consider before buying a bonsai tree

Environmental factors such as repotting, watering, fertilizer application

Shaping and trimming of the bonsai tree

And so much more!

This book is designed with you in mind, even though you might have never cultivated any plant before now. This book will guide all through your journey in bringing your bonsai tree to looking beautiful and healthy.

What are you waiting for? Scroll up and  CLICK ADD to CART  button now. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FP54WSS

The Essential Manual of Urban Gardening for Beginners: A Step-by-Step Guide to Raised Bed Gardening for Cultivating a Thriving Flower, Herbs, Fruits and Vegetables Garden All Year Round

In this quintessential manual on raised bed gardening, you will discover amazing insights on how to cultivate your favorite plants without the hassles that you would have faced if you didn't have this guide with you.

You might have the mindset that the cultivation of foods and ornamental flowers can't be done because you live in a concrete jungle due to the lack of space, you're mistaken. The number and options available to you to cultivate beautiful raised bed gardens to supply you with herbs, vegetables, fruits and flowers are endless! Your living location should not be a barrier to practicing gardening and enjoying the fruits of your labor. 

The main factor here is understanding your environment, your living arrangement, and then selecting a raised bed technique that best suits your plants' cultivation. Clayton provides you with all that you need to help you succeed as an  urban gardener. 

You don't get only the basics on  raised bed gardening ; the author takes you through methods and techniques on setting up your garden, the types of materials that can be used in constructing your garden, handling pests and diseases and much more. When you consider the ever-growing world population, it is only pertinent that individuals should use spaces available to them to grow foods. It doesn't matter if you are living in rural or urban areas; you should be able to put your passion for gardening to use. 

Here are some of the vital raised bed gardening techniques in this book ;

Raised Bed gardening explained

Where you can set up container gardening in your home

Cultivating your favorite plants

Pests and diseases control

Irrigation, crop rotation and planting methods

Flowers, fruits, vegetables and herbs to grow in a raised bed

Plant and soil nutrient formation 

How to properly set up your garden

How to avoid mistakes

Troubleshooting   

Raised bed gardening has several advantages over the conventional cultivation methods. Pests and diseases are minimized, application of nutrients is easier, and for those with physical challenges, you don't have to bend over to attend to your plants as you can set them up on an elevated platform. The way and manner you set up your raised bed garden are endless, and it will always come out great if you follow the simple guideline outlined in this book. 

It doesn't matter if you are a pro or greenhorn to gardening, do not fret as this book has got you covered. You will continue to learn new and innovative ways of putting your garden to work or learn ways of brushing up your knowledge and all that you know about gardening.

Are you ready to begin cultivating your beautiful plants around your home? 

CLICK the BUY button now.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HTM7TV7

About the Author

Clayton M. Rines is a techie who lives in and around gadgets. Knowing what makes devices all around us tick is his life ambition, and he is always on the lookout for new ideas to everyday technological problems. Bringing solutions to your gadget issues, giving opinions and tips on how to get the best out of your devices, and bringing to you excellent news gives him so much pleasure. He is a DIY expert, naturalist and animal lover.

Clayton is from Sacramento, California and enjoys globetrotting, savoring new experiences, enjoying new cultures.