WHITTLING PROJECT GUIDE

15 MINUTES FUN STEP-BY-STEP WHITTLING, WOOD CARVING, AND STICK DRESSING INSTRUCTIONS

BY

JOSE R. MARTINIS

Copyright © 2020 JOSE R. MARTINIS

All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher. Although every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the publisher and author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Nor is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.

Table of Contents

CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

WHAT YOU NEED

CHOOSE YOUR WOOD

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING A KNIFE

HOW TO SHARPEN A KNIFE

SHARPENING STONES

STROPPING

CHAPTER TWO

RULES FOR WHITTLING:

UNDERSTAND THE WOODGRAIN

TYPES OF WHITTLING CUTS

HOW TO WHITTLE

WHAT YOU SHOULD WHITTLE

CHAPTER THREE

PICTURE GUIDE

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT THE FINISHED PIECE

CHAPTER FOUR

HOW TO WHITTLE A MINI GUITAR

CHAPTER FIVE

HOW TO WHITTLE A BIRD WHISTLE

CHAPTER SIX

HOW TO CARVE

STEP 1: GATHER YOUR MATERIALS

CHOOSE THE RIGHT WOOD.

BUY THE RIGHT CARVING KNIFE.

GET MULTIPLE GOUGES.

USE CHISELS.

STEP 2: PRACTICE CUTS

PRACTICE WITH WOOD SCRAP.

KEEP THE KNIFE CORRECT.

CARVE ALONG THE GRAIN.

PRACTICE SOME BASIC CUTS.

STEP 3: CARVING

USE SAFETY ACCESSORIES.

DRAW THE DESIGN

MAKE THE WOOD FIRM.

CUT THE BASIC SHAPE.

CUT OUT THE FORM.

ADD FINE DETAILS.

PROTECT YOUR WORK

CHAPTER SEVEN

THE ART OF STICK DRESSING

CHOOSING THE WOOD

CARVE THE HEAD

PRODUCE A BEAUTIFUL ARTWORK

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS

COLLECT YOUR MATERIALS

CREATE PATTERNS ON YOUR STICK

HOW TO MAKE A LEATHER HANDLE FOR A WALKING/HIKING STICK

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

DESIGN THE HANDLE OF THE WALKING STICK

CUT THE LEATHER

DRILL HOLES IN LEATHER

ATTACH THE LEATHER TO THE WALKING STICK

CHAPTER EIGHT

HOW TO USE A WALKING STICK

USING A WALKING STICK WITH AN INJURED LEG

HIKING WITH A WALKING STICK

CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

W hittling is the art of carving rough wooden shapes with a knife to cut small, thin pieces. It is used by many as a hobby or as a means of making artistic creations.

Casual whittling is usually done with a light knife with a small blade, usually a pocket knife. Special whittling knives with fixed individual blades are preferred for sculpture. They have thick handles that are easier to grip for long periods and have better leverage, which enables more precise control and pressure.

The terms "whittling" and "carving" are sometimes used interchangeably, but they are different arts. Chisels, furrows with or without a mallet are used for carving, while only a knife is used for whittling

Frequently, carving involves the use of powered devices such as lathes. In industrial areas of the world, it is primarily a hobby and not a professional activity as it was before motorized woodworking equipment made modern production possible.

It is a good idea to protect your thumb with a leather thimble and your hand with a cut-resistant glove.

While any type of wood can be used for whittling, some woods are easier to work with and that carve better than others. Softwoods with a small grain, like basswood, are easier to cut and relatively inexpensive. Hardwoods are more difficult to carve.

WHAT YOU NEED

For whittling, you will need a knife, wood, leather thimble, and cut-resistant gloves.

CHOOSE YOUR WOOD

Softwoods are best suited for whittling because they cut well and easily. After you learn the basics of carving, you can move on to harder woods. No matter what type of wood you use, look for wood with a straight grain because it is easier to carve than wood with the grain going in multiple directions. Avoid knotty wood as it is a snot to carve.

Ask your local sawmill or woodworking shop for softwood.

Craft shops often stock a variety of softwoods that are good for whittling. You can collect all of your wood for carving for a few dollars.

Below is a shortlist of the most popular whittling woods.

Basswood : Basswood has been used for whittling for thousands of years. In the Middle Ages, it was the preferred wood of German sculptors who made artistic altarpieces. It is a good wood for whittling because it is smooth and does not have a lot of grain. You can buy basswood blocks of various sizes at your local craft store for a reasonable price.

Pine: Pine is another traditional whittling wood. It is smooth, easy to cut, and readily available. But it has its drawbacks. Some Whittlers thinks that it doesn't hold very detailed carvings. And if you're using a fresh pine branch or twig, you'll need to wipe the sticky sap off your knife periodically while whittling.

Balsa: Balsa wood is a smooth, inexpensive, and light wood that is perfect for beginner whittlers. You can buy it in craft stores at relatively cheap prices.

Random Twigs and Branches: You do not need a pre-cut block of wood to carve. The branches and twigs of most tree species are ideal for carving. There's nothing like sitting around the campfire and cutting a branch while talking to your friends. Wooden knives are a popular object for carving from a branch.

If the wood you choose is dry, you will have more control over it. So, ensure your wood is dry. Choosing wet wood for whittling increases the unpredictability of the finished product because it could warp and crack as it is drying

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING A KNIFE

There are a few things to consider when choosing a pocket knife for whittling. Most whittling tools are made of high-carbon steel. There could be up to 10 to 20 blades in some pocket knives. These knives are generally less convenient to use. Therefore, look for a knife with two or at most three blades to ensure that the blades are comfortably positioned. Look for a sheep's foot blade with the knife tip closely aligned with the main cutting edge, similar to a utility knife or standard bench knife. A locking blade prevents the sharp knife from accidentally closing on your fingers, which is a good safety feature. The choice of the ideal cutting knife for you depends on your personal preferences. The size of your grip compared to the size of the handle has a big impact on how convenient it is to use the knife for extended periods.

Pocket knife: For generations, Whittlers have only used their reliable pocket knife to create robust and attractive works of art. And some will argue that the pocket knife is the only acceptable tool for real whittling. Pocket knives are undoubtedly an excellent option as they are very portable. Any time you find a good piece of wood, you can take out your pocket knife and start designing your wooden masterpiece. Another advantage of pocket knives is that they provide multiple types of blades in a single knife. If you need to make a more complex cut, you can simply open your smallest and most flexible blade. Do you need to make bigger cuts? Then use the larger blade.

Specialty knives: There are different types of special cutting knives on the market today. Unlike pocket knives, they are fixed blades, which means they don't fold. Fixed blades offer slightly more sturdiness than a folding knife. Another good feature of special carving knives is that they often have curved handles that lie comfortably in the hand to reduce fatigue during long carving processes.

Flex cut blades: These offer a wide range of different types of cutting knives and you can buy them a starter set. You will probably be happy with the knives. They have a very good edge and are easy to sharpen. The ergonomically shaped handle reduces hand fatigue compared to cutting with a pocket knife.

HOW TO SHARPEN A KNIFE

You will put a heavy load on your knife (s) and must, therefore sharpen them. You can buy grindstones or use a combination of sandpaper grit over 600 and water or oil. Each piece of leather works as a stripe.

If you have a good knife, remember to be careful. You can cut yourself by sharpening your knife as easily as when cutting.

SHARPENING STONES

Get some good grindstones first. They should be found in sports and hunting stores as well as in many department stores. You may like stones that are attached to a triangular piece of wood and that you can hold in your hand. A different sharpening stone (medium, fine, and ultra-fine) is attached to each side of the triangular wood. Start sharpening on the middle side if the knife is very blunt. Then go to the fine side and end on the ultra-fine side.

Here are three different ways to sharpen your cutting knife:

1. Lay the blade almost flat, but at a slight angle to the stone, and push the knife away from you as if you were trying to cut a very thin layer of the stone.

2. Lay the blade on the stone almost flat but at a slight angle and pull the knife towards you with the sharp side of the blade facing away from you.

3. Place the blade close to the flat surface, but at a slight angle to the stone, and make small circular movements with the blade.

Most Whittlers recommend the first method. But you can try all three first and then use the one that works best for you.

STROPPING

After your knife is as sharp as possible, remove a leather strap. You can buy a strop (you can pay a lot of money if you want), but you can easily make one. This is like

Get a piece of wood. It should be approximately 1 1/2 "wide, 3/4" thick and 16 "long.

Leave 11 inches as is and cut a rounded handle with the other 5 inches. You can attach a handle at one end or have a handle at both ends.

Drill a hole at the end of the handle, insert a piece of leather and tie the ends with a knot. (This is mainly for the look).

Obtain a 1 1/2 "x 11" piece of leather in a shoe repair shop or leathercraft store. Glue it to the wood. You can also glue an old leather belt of suitable size with the finished side down on the wood. You can use 5-minute 2-part liquid epoxy.

Get a sharpening compound like Herb's Yellowstone now. It comes in a solid 4 "long x 1" x 1 "block and is packaged in a small box. Its consistency is similar to that of chalk. Scrape off some dust with the back of your knife and drop it on the leather strop. Coat the leather. After one use, the powder is embedded in the leather and should last several layers.

Strop the knife by laying it on the leather as flat as possible. Pull the knife towards you under pressure, pressing it downward with the sharp edge away from you. If you use Yellowstone, your strop will turn black very quickly as you work. This is the metal that is being cut from the knife so you know the strop and Yellowstone are working very well. Your knife is sharp and ready to use with a little effort.

If your blade shows signs of loss of sharpness, strop it again. Don't wait until it gets blunt. Strop it often, and you will rarely use the stones again, if at all.

If you follow these simple guidelines, use common sense, and experiment a little yourself, you will find a happy medium for the angle that is best for you. You should get good results.

And now you know how to sharpen Whittling knives. Keep the knife blade protected by placing it in a box or toolbox where it won't collide with other tools. Otherwise, it will become dull the next time it is used.

CHAPTER TWO

RULES FOR WHITTLING:

Keep Your Knife Sharp

If you want your experience to be enjoyable and relaxing, keep your knife sharp. If you try to cut your hands for the first time, you will find that the wood is becoming increasingly difficult to cut. You can assume that it has to be the wood, so you are tempted to sell on and use the knife with increasing pressure. But later your hands will start to hurt. Finally, the thought occurred to you that your knife had to be sharpened a bit.

After a few blows on the sharpening stone and scraping, you can start cutting again. It will feel like you are cutting a warm block of butter. The blade slides through the wood.

So if you feel the wood is harder to cut, stop, and sharpen your knife.

Follow the Safety Precautions

When you try a serious cut for the first time, you might be tempted to do it with ruthless dedication. You may think that because you've used knives all your life, you can carve this piece of wood without cutting yourself.

To help prevent serious accidents, use the following safety tips as a guideline:

Calm down . You don't have to hurry! Whittling is said to be relaxing and meditative. If you are in a hurry with your cuts, accidents happen. Make each cut slowly and in a controlled manner.

Keep your knife sharp . Following the first cutting-rule not only guarantees better cuts, but also ensures that you keep all your fingers. Instead of cutting, blunt blades tend to distract from the wood and go straight into your hand. While the blade may not be sharp enough to cut wood, it is generally still sharp enough to cut human flesh.

Wear gloves , especially when you start. It is recommended to wear a pair of leather gloves until you are familiar with different knife blows. Yes, the gloves feel a bit awkward at first, but they fit quickly.

If you are not wearing gloves, use a thumb pad. The thumb on the hand holding the knife tends to bear the brunt of the notches and looks. Use a thumb pad to protect your thumb. If they are worn out, you need to buy another set. Another solution that works just as well is tape. Before you start carving, just wrap your thumb with tape. Use this technique to avoid sticky things on your thumb:

Wrap a layer of tape with the sticky side out around your thumb. Wrap it tight enough so that it doesn't slip, but not so tight that it loosens thumb circulation. Then wrap a few layers of tape with the adhesive side inside around your thumb. Four or five layers should do the trick.

Whichever way you choose to go, you should always whittle with or across the grain. The grain can also go up and down a bit, so make sure you whittle with the grain downward.

Hold The Knife Securely: if you are right-handed, your left hand should hold the piece of wood while your right hand will hold the knife. Your left thumb should be on the back of the blade and provide the cutting force. You cannot move the blade exactly. Don't forget to keep your fingers away from the blade!

Never Press Hard On The Blade - if it jams (because it has penetrated too deeply into the wood or changed the grain), stop and pull back. If you try to force the blade, your finger may slip and cut.

Stay Tuned! - The sound and feel of your cuts are important. You can hear the difference between cutting with, against, and across the grain. This helps develop your intuition for the direction you are cutting.

UNDERSTAND THE WOODGRAIN

Sometimes it is easy to determine the direction of the grain on a piece of wood by just looking at it. But often it's not that obvious. If you're having trouble determining which direction the grain is going, start with small flat cuts in your wood. The cuts made with the grain loosen gently. The cuts made against the grain give strength and eventually break. In general, you want most cuts to match the grain of the wood. Cuts against the grain make your wood tear, split and just look ugly. Besides, the resistance of wood when whittling against the grain makes it difficult to carve.

Don't be frustrated if you lose track of how the grain runs while you are in the middle of the project. It happens to most people when they start working with wood of any kind. Keep practicing and at some point, you will have the opportunity to discover the wood grain.

Some Explained Terms : If you whittle in the same direction as the grain, you are whittling with the grain. If you whittle opposite the direction of the grain, you are whittling against the grain. If you cut perpendicular to the grain, cut across the grain.

You should start with straight wood, with the grain going in one direction. You can use the ends to determine which direction the grain is going.

TYPES OF WHITTLING CUTS

There are different styles of carving, but first, we'll talk about the basics. The instructions assume that you are right-handed. Just flip them over when you're not.

Direct Rough Cut

Use this cut at the beginning of your project to reduce the overall shape of your project.

Hold the wood with your left hand and the knife with your right.

Make a long, wide cut with the grain and away from your body.

Do not cut too deep; otherwise, the wood can be split.

Whittle the wood down to the desired size and shape. Do this by making several thin slices.

Traction Stroke (Pull Cut)

If you've ever seen a veteran, you've probably shot him. It is the most commonly used cut when carving. Imagine cutting an apple to make this cut.

Hold the wood in your left hand, the knife in your right with the blade towards you.

Place your right thumb against the wood and press your right fingers to pull the blade on your right thumb.

Make your stroke short and controlled. Keep your right thumb away from the blade. Use a thumb pad for added security.

The pull stroke gives you a lot of control over your blade and is better for detailed cuts.

Push Cut

Sometimes where you want to cut, you can't do the pull stroke. Then it's time to get the push shot out.

Hold the wood with your left hand and the knife with your right hand with the blade outwards.

Place your right and left thumb on the back of the knife blade.

Use your left thumb to push the blade forward while your thumb and right finger guide the blade through the wood.

The push stroke, like the pull stroke, gives you more control over your knife for detailed cuts.

V-Shaped cut

This creates a V-shaped groove. Use the center of the edge to make angled cuts that intersect at the corner of a void and create V-shaped notches.

Stop Cut

The stop cut is used to create a hard line at the end of another cut. The position of your hand depends on the placement of the cut you need to make. Regardless of the position of your hand, just cut straight into the wood to make a stop cut.

Whittling is not something you pick up overnight; It takes a lot of patience and practice. However, you will find that when you practice, you develop an intuition that enables you to tackle increasingly difficult problems yourself. It is a pleasant and relaxing activity that I would recommend to anyone who wants to learn a new skill.

HOW TO WHITTLE

When you trim, move with the paddle. First, the knife has to dig a little into the surface of the wood. The knife must be pushed through the wood; it’s about the angle! When you slide through the wood, tilt the knife up slightly and you have cut some wood. With many types of wood, the chips are wavy; this is an indication that you are going in the right direction.

You have to remove the wood in very thin layers; if you go too deep, you will tear THE wood up on the way back.

You need to know when you are going, against the grain, with the grain, and across the grain.

The more you whittle, the better you will understand the grain. It's a little difficult to explain in words, but it will make sense if you experience it firsthand.

Start with gently curving objects that give you a little space to make mistakes. Add details as you improve, regardless of grain orientation. There is always a way to make the right cut.

WHAT YOU SHOULD WHITTLE

Cowboy boots are a popular cutting project alongside animals. You can purchase additional books with ready-to-use patterns. All you have to do is simply transfer the pattern to your wood and start cutting.

Or you can simply create your pattern. A new whittler thought it was great to cut a duck head, so he took a piece of wood , drew the outline of a duck head on both sides, and then started cutting .

CHAPTER THREE

PICTURE GUIDE

INTRODUCTION

While it's possible to whittle into a variety of surfaces—including soap and stone—whittling remains popular since it's both practical and relatively simple to practice.

To learn this art properly, though, you'll need to gather the right supplies and devote plenty of time to patient practice.

✓      Select your materials

✓      Choose the right wood

✓      Buy The Right Whittling Knife

✓      Practicing Cuts

✓      Hold the knife correctly

✓      Whittle along the grain.

✓      Sketch the design.

✓      Cut the basic shape.

After obtaining the basic shape, remove as much excess material as possible until the overall form of the piece is clear.

PROTECT THE FINISHED PIECE

If you're satisfied with your work and want to preserve the item, you'll need to apply a wood finish that can protect the surface from moisture, oils, dirt, and other debris.

Paste wax allows the natural color of the wood to come through. It is also relatively clearer. It works well for decorative whittling but can wear off when applied to too frequently handled objects.

Danish oil can tint the color of the wood slightly, but it tends to be quite durable and can be used for frequently handled carvings.

Spray urethane and polyurethane are the most durable finishes and generally last for long periods even if the item is handled frequently. You'll need to apply the finish during moderate, dry weather and allow it to dry thoroughly in between coats.

CHAPTER FOUR

HOW TO WHITTLE A MINI GUITAR

In this chapter, you will learn how to whittle a mini guitar. It is a fun project to do. It will not take you much time.

Step 1: Cut a Flat Piece of Wood

Step 2: Sand It

Step 3: Draw Lines with Pencil

Step 4: Carve out the Shape

Step 5: Sand It for Smother Look

Step 6: Cut Details

Step 7: More Sanding

You can use 80, 120, 220, 500, 600, and 1200 grit sandpaper.

Step 8: Apply Olive Oil

Step 9: Enjoy Your Product.

You can use it on a key, chain, or something similar.

You can also find some helpful videos on YouTube.

CHAPTER FIVE

HOW TO WHITTLE A BIRD WHISTLE

Step 1: This Is What You Need

This Is What You Need

3 pieces scrap lumber, I used birch 1 is 2cm ¾ inch, the thinner parts are about 0.5 cm

wood glue

drill

foster bit (I used 7/8 inch)

bead

a band saw or scroll saw

knife

sandpaper

pencil

Pen

varnish

Step 2: Glue the Template

Glue the template on your 2 cm piece. Change the pattern into a bird if you want to make a bird whistle.

Step 3: Drill the Hole

Clamp your pieces on the drill table and drill the hole with a 7/8 foster bit.

Step 4: Cut Out Your Whistle

Start with the “body”, then the tiny opening on the top and at last the top.

Step 5: Glue and Cut Out the Sizes

Glue your template on the 2 thinner plates and cut out.

Step 6: Nearly Done

Glue the 2 sides on both sides of the whistle. Put a bead in the hole before you place the upper-part on your whistle. Now comes the most difficult part: to get some sound. You have to have patience and try again and again, but in the end, you will succeed. Mark where you have to glue the upper-part. Remove it and glue it back.

Step 7: Sand and Carve

Sand the outside and mark the “body” of the whistle. Carve the bird and sand the whistle smooth.

Apply varnish in the end.

CHAPTER SIX

HOW TO CARVE

Whittling, relief carving, chip carving, and carving in the round are the four main types of wood carving.

Relief carving is the art of carving figures on a flat wooden panel. The image appears three-dimensional from the front, but the back remains flat. You need a variety of hand tools to do relief carving.

Carving in the Round is probably the most realistic technique. You'll use a variety of tools to create this type of carved sculpture, and the finished piece will be three-dimensional, with smoother, more natural lines.

Chip carving is mainly based on the use of knives, chisels, and hammers. Gradually chopping off the wood to create three-dimensional patterns on a wooden board, but the back of the piece remains flat.

STEP 1: GATHER YOUR MATERIALS

However, for what you want to carve, you first need to collect your materials - your tools.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT WOOD.

As a rule, the wood used should be somewhat soft. Buy high quality, labeled wood at a craft store or wood supplier, rather than from a generic wood stack.

Basswood, butternut, and white pine are among the best woods, especially for beginners. These are softwoods that are easy to carve. The basswood has a fine grain, the butternut has a rough grain, and the white pine has a medium grain. Basswood is best suited for whittling, but you can use butternut and white pine for almost any carving technique.

Mahogany and black walnut have medium grains and are a little difficult to carve because these woods are a little harder.

Cherry, sugar maple, and white oak are very difficult to carve due to their hardness. Cherry and sugar maple has fine grains, but white oak has medium to coarse grains. If all three kinds of wood are properly carved, however, they can make excellent end pieces.

BUY THE RIGHT CARVING KNIFE.

The knife you choose should be sharp, easy to grip, and stiff. Retractable blades are often unsafe because they can collapse under pressure, so a standard pocket knife may not work well.

Chip carving knives are your best choice. The blade is approximately 3.5 cm long and the handle is long enough to sit comfortably in your hand. Choose a high carbon steel knife so it stays sharp and intact for a long time.

If you are just starting and don't want to make an investment yet, you should use a utility knife or a craft knife. Just make sure the blade is sharp and firm. You should also be able to hold the handle for a long time without feeling uncomfortable.

GET MULTIPLE GOUGES.

Gouges are curved tools that are used to "pull" wood out instead of cutting it. They use grooves to carve, shape, and smooth surfaces.

U-gouges have curved shafts and curved cutting edges. When buying U-gouges, note that the cutting edges have different widths between 1/16 inch (2 mm) and 2-3 / 8 inch (60 mm), and the shaft can be straight, curved, bent back or with a spoon-like in shape.

V-gouges have angled tips that meet at a "V" shaped point. The width of the cutting edge can vary between 2 mm (1/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-2 / 5 inch). The sides can also be at an angle of 60 degrees or 90 degrees.

Spoon-like and bent gouges are special tools that facilitate access to certain areas of wood carving. They are not always necessary, but they are good if you take the hobby seriously.

USE CHISELS.

Chisels are sharp, flat tools used in conjunction with rubber hammers/mallets. Good chisels are especially important for wood chopping practices.

Basic carpenter chisels have flat edges that dig into the wood at an acute angle.

Slanted chisels also have flat edges, but sit back at a 45-degree angle so you can make cuts that are a little less blunt.

Conventional mallets are technically made of heavy wood, but rubber mallets are less loud and generally cause less damage to the chisel grip on repeated impacts.

STEP 2: PRACTICE CUTS

PRACTICE WITH WOOD SCRAP.

It is always a good idea to practice a few basic cuts on scrap wood before working on important, useful pieces of wood. This gives you the opportunity to familiarize yourself with the tools. Also, be careful never to cut in the direction of your body. If the knife slips you will avoid an accident. Always use sharp tools, even when you are practicing. If the tools are sharp enough, they should make a clean, shiny cut through the wood without leaving scratches or scratches.

KEEP THE KNIFE CORRECT.

If you need to push a knife, gouge, or chisel through the wood, keep your hands behind the sharp edge. These tools can slip during work. If your fingers are in front of the blade, injury can result.

Grasp the wood with your non-dominant hand when working with knives. Hold your hand behind the tool blade, but gently press the thumb of your hand against the blunt side of the tool for easy control. While holding your non-dominant hand steady, rotate the dominant hand and wrist to achieve the cut you want.

When working with gouges, hold the handle in the palm of your dominant hand while stabilizing the shaft by pushing it between the thumb and index finger of your dominant hand. The edge must be against the wood.

Remember to control the direction of your carving tools with your wrist and not your elbow. This applies regardless of the cut or tool used.

CARVE ALONG THE GRAIN.

Always carve along with the grain instead of against it. If you cut against the grain, the wood may splinters.

Examine the wood and find the long, parallel lines that run through the wood. These lines may or may not be parallel to the sides of the plate and could be wavy rather than rigid straight.

Always carve down on these grain lines. You can also carve diagonally across the grain or in parallel, but not carve against the grain. If the wood starts to tear when it is carved, even if the tool is sharp, you may be carving in the wrong direction. Switch in the opposite direction and check the results again.

PRACTICE SOME BASIC CUTS.

There are numerous cuts you need to learn when practicing this craft, but when you start, you should practice at least some of the basics.

The running cut creates a long channel in the wood. Hold the blade of a U or V gouge against the surface of the wood and slide it over the grain to keep the pressure as even as possible.

A stabbing cut creates sharp carvings on the wood surface so you can create hard shadows. Slide the edge of a gouge straight into the wood and then pull it out without pushing it further.

Sweep cuts are long arch cuts. Use a gouge to push across the grain and twist the handle as you push it forward to create an arc.

STEP 3: CARVING

USE SAFETY ACCESSORIES.

Carving can be dangerous if you are not careful. Therefore, you should consider having some basic security stocks and use them to protect yourself.

Use a cut-resistant glove on your non-dominant hand or the hand that holds the wood.

Cover your eyes with safety glasses. When the wood chips begin to fly, even if the piece is small, the loose pieces can reach your eyes if you don't protect yourself.

DRAW THE DESIGN

If possible, use a pencil to easily outline the planned cuts and grooves before picking up any of your tools.

These lines can create guides that facilitate precision. You can make mistakes when a tool slips, but you won't make mistakes due to a miscalculation.

If you make mistakes, there is no going back. You have to change your original plan to take the error into account or start over with new wood.

MAKE THE WOOD FIRM.

Ideally, you should hold the piece of wood in place by attaching it to the table or in a press. This frees your two hands, which makes your work easier. Never hold the wood in your lap when carving.

For small scale carvings, like whittling, you can hold the wood in your non-dominant hand while working. But always keep your non-dominant hand behind the edge of the tool.

CUT THE BASIC SHAPE.

Remove as much wood as possible until you can see the basic shape of the last piece in the wooden block.

For small pieces, you can cut the basic shape with knives or chisels. For larger parts, you may need to use a band saw or chainsaw.

Don't be afraid to cut too much. As long as you don't exceed your established guidelines, you won't ruin the wood. You can drive slowly if you feel better, but it can take a long time to get a basic shape if you're too shy with your tools.

CUT OUT THE FORM.

After getting the basic shape, use large U-grooves to remove as much excess material as possible until the overall shape of the part has developed. Identify the larger plans and work on these forms first. As the larger shapes become clearer, then you gradually move to the smaller, more defined shapes.

ADD FINE DETAILS.

After completing the general form, switch to your smaller tools and add details to the carved shape.

While you should always have sharp tools, this is especially important in this step. Blunt tools can damage the surface of the wood and impair the appearance of the carving.

Work on a section of the carving at a time. Finish in the larger details and foreground details first, then move on to the small details and background.

PROTECT YOUR WORK

If you are OK with your work and want to keep the carved item, you need to apply a wood finish that protects the surface from moisture, oil, dirt, and other residues.

The paste wax is relatively transparent and lets the natural color of the wood through. It works well for decorative carvings but can wear off on carvings that are often used. Danish oil can easily tint the color of the wood, but is usually very durable and can be used for frequently used objects.

Spray urethane and polyurethane are the most durable surface finishes and generally last a long time, even when the carved object is a frequently used item. You need to apply the finish in moderate, dry weather and let it dry completely between layers.

CHAPTER SEVEN

THE ART OF STICK DRESSING

Many know the shepherd's staff. Stick dressing turns these ordinary pieces of wood into extraordinary works of art. For centuries, shepherds and farm workers have found that this fascinating craft requires a lot of skill and patience. But what does stick dressing mean?

Stick Dressing is the production of sticks, shepherds' staff, and ceremonial staff.

CHOOSING THE WOOD

The first step is the selection of the wood. Any wood with the right proportions can be used: blackthorn, apple, or pear. Holly is often chosen for her prominent and attractive knots. However, many stick dressers prefer hazelwood. Sometimes a tree has a shoot that grows at a slight angle to a branch or root. This allows the entire stick (head and stem) to be formed from a single part of the tree.

When is it better to cut a stem? When the sap is not flowing and the tree is dormant. Although many dressers argue that the best time is immediately you see it before someone else finds it! In any case, once you are convinced that you have cut a suitable piece of material, you should grease or paint the cut ends to prevent the block from cracking. The Wood then needs to be seasoned. Only then can you start carving.

CARVE THE HEAD

If a stick doesn't have a natural handle or head, create one using the horn of a cow, sheep, or goat. Like the shank, the horn usually has to be seasoned too. Then use a vise to shape the horn to the desired design. For generations, shepherds have used forge fire, boiling water, the coals of a peat fire, or even heat from a paraffin lamp to make the horn flexible. Then it would be ready to become what your imagination and skills can produce. For example, you can carve the handle to look like a collie, a bird, a brown trout, a pheasant's head, or a small animal by following the principles described earlier in this book.

Pay attention to details when carving the horn. For example, when carving a trout, the tail and fin bones are etched with a hot iron and a circular punch is used to shape individual scale. The eyes can consist of black buffalo horn.

Ink instead of color is used to paint the body. More than one layer is required, and applying the ink to the polished surface can be tedious. The finishing touch is to seal the color by covering the horn with varnish.

PRODUCE A BEAUTIFUL ARTWORK

Attach the horn to the handle with a steel bolt, nail, or wooden dowel. Then skillfully rub your artwork with fine steel wool. Then polish and paint.

Stick dressing is undoubtedly a tedious job. But the end product can be a real work of art, and some even take part in competitions.

If you like to hike or even walk on uneven ground, a stick can be a very useful accessory. A good walking stick improves your balance, involves your arms more, and can be used, among other things, to clean the brush off small obstacles. And if you make the stick yourself, a practical tool can become a pride. Boy Scouts can do it, and so can you!

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS

COLLECT YOUR MATERIALS

Choose a good stick. A good walking stick naturally starts with a good piece of wood. The size, sturdiness, and age of the wood and shape, contribute to the quality of a potential walking stick.

A good cane generally starts as a fairly straight piece of wood about an inch or two in diameter. Look for a piece of wood that is as tall as your armpit (usually in the 55 to 65-inch range). You can cut it to length later.

Hardwoods are usually the most usable and sturdiest sticks. Maple, cherry, alder, aspen, and sassafras are examples of very good options. Look for fresh hardwood, but never cut from a living tree to make a stick. Enjoy nature, do not harm it. If you look around a little, you will find a suitable stick that is still fresh but no longer alive.

Avoid sticks with holes or other signs of insect activity. The stick can be weakened by the boring of the insects or you may unconsciously transport insects into your home.

Cut it to size . When making the stick for your use, place it on the floor and hold it in front of you as if you were walking. The arm is comfortably bent at the elbow (approximately at a right angle). Mark the stick about 5 cm above the top of your hand (or more if you want to add a decorative carving on top, for example) and cut it off with the saw.

If you want to dimension a stick for another person, before placing it, ask them to hold a broom in front of them as described above. Measure the height from the floor to a few inches above the top of the hand. Take a tape measure or an individually cut string with you when hunting for a stick.

If you want to offer walking sticks for sale or give them to unknown recipients, keep in mind that the 55-65 inch range is a good general starting point for the length of walking sticks.

Whittle Off The Bark . You can leave the bark on if you want, but most people prefer the look of a bare stick that reveals the smooth wood grain underneath. However, you probably want to remove every bump by whittling them away. You can use a pocket knife, a larger knife, or even a plane to whittle away the bark. Use the most convenient whittling tool for you.

First, shave off twigs and bumps and then shave off the bark. Use short, fast, and flat strokes. You don't want to dig into the wood.

Good and safe carving takes time. Always whittle away from your body with your legs away from the shaving motion. A knot in the wood can cause the knife to jump off and cut or pierce you. If you are unfamiliar with whittling, study this book more and more and keep practicing to gain experience.

Continue whittling until the shiny wood is exposed underneath. Some trees have multiple layers of bark, so keep going until you can see the grain of the wood.

Let Your Stick Dry . Fresh wood is better for trimming and carving, but dry wood offers more stiffness and durability. Time and patience are your best friends in this process.

The drying time depends on a number of factors, including the type of wood, environmental conditions, and personal preferences. Some recommend two weeks as the average target time, others say one month.

Let the stick dry until it becomes stiff but not brittle. You may need to turn the position or even hold it in place (e.g., holding it against a flat piece of wood with metal clips that secure the conduit or pipe) to prevent warping.

Wood that dries too quickly can become brittle. If it is extremely dry indoors, you should let the wand cure in a covered outdoor area such as a garage or shed.

CREATE PATTERNS ON YOUR STICK

Add Creative Designs: You may have seen walking sticks with intricately carved tips. The face of a bearded man with long hair seems to be a popular choice. Depending on your skill with a pocket knife and/or other woodworking tools, you can try decorating the top of your stick. Remember, if you make a mistake, you can trim off and shorten the stick a bit more!

For slightly simpler decorations, you can write your name or initials on the stick. You can also do these effects with a wooden tool. Be careful regardless of the method used.

You will also find practical benefits if you carve grooves in your hand grip area. The wavy grooves found in many steering wheels of a car can serve as inspiration, but a spiral groove that wraps around the stick can also provide a comfortable grip.

Stain and Seal the Wood : Once you've finished trimming, carving, curing, and whittling, it's time to protect your creation for years to come. Sealing and staining wood, in particular, is optional but is recommended to improve the appearance and durability of your stick.

Regardless of whether you color / seal the walking stick or not, smooth it comfortably with thick, then fine sandpaper. Clean the sawdust with a rag or cloth dampened with paint thinner. Apply wood stain according to the instructions in its package. Allow each layer of stain to dry and sand overnight and wipe gently between applications. The more layers you add, the darker the finish. Add three layers (or the recommended number per pack instruction) of clear urethane paint. Sand lightly with ultra-fine sandpaper and clean between applications.

Color or seal in a well-ventilated area. Always wear gloves and also wear safety glasses and respiratory protection.

Give It A Grip . If you haven't carved a grip into your stick, you can instead apply a grip after you've finished all the stains and seals. Practical and visually appealing handles can be made from leather, thread, nylon or braided rope wrapped around the handle area and secured with small pins or nails. For that matter, a self-adhesive grip packaging that is used for tennis rackets or rackets, golf also works or even grip tape that is used in hockey sticks.

You can also add a wrist strap for additional support when holding your walking stick. Drill a hole through the stick (ideally before staining or sealing) just above the handle area.

Thread a strip of leather or other preferred material and tie it in a loop that fits just over your wrist.

Protect The Base : The bottom tip of your stick experiences the greatest wear, which can lead to cracks, crevices, chips, or rot. You can leave the tip in its natural state and clean, grind or cut it as required or optionally add a floor protector.

The rubber caps used for walking sticks and walking aids are a simple and inexpensive solution. Find them wherever medical care items are sold. You can also use large rubber stoppers. Drill a hole in the stopper and the bottom of the stick to accommodate a wooden dowel and glue the connections.

A short copper pipe can also be elegant basic protection for the tip of your walking stick. Take a 1-inch length of 3/4-quarter inch or 1-inch diameter copper pipe and cut the base of your stick until the pipe slides just over the tip. Secure the pipe with quick-drying epoxy glue.

HOW TO MAKE A LEATHER HANDLE FOR A WALKING/HIKING STICK

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

A walking stick

Piece of leather

Rope or cord or Para-cord

Scissors

Leather stamp

Thread the needle

Pencil

DESIGN THE HANDLE OF THE WALKING STICK

The walking stick must be strong and firm; these make the best walking stick. Whittle the area where you want the handle to be.

CUT THE LEATHER

Adjust the leather to the position of the handle.

Shape the leather around your handle; You should cut the leather to wrap around the stick without overlapping itself.

Make sure the leather gets to the other side without overlapping. This is important.

Most strands of a leather stretch after some time so take this into account.

DRILL HOLES IN LEATHER

First drill holes along one side with a leather puncher or similar tool. Make the holes as evenly as possible.

You can match up the side you have punctured with the other side. You can mark the holes with a pencil against the side not yet punctured. Then you can drill the corresponding holes on the other side.

ATTACH THE LEATHER TO THE WALKING STICK

Tie a knot at one end of the rope (use multiple knots if the knot slips through the hole).

Wrap the leather around the handle. They start at one end and work towards the other end. Follow the same stitch pattern as you work up the handle, make the lacing tight. Once you ascend to the other end, you can stop here. You can end here by tying the fastener knot.

Otherwise, you can continue stitching with the lace and return to the beginning.

To finish the stitch, tie a single knot or a few knots to make it very firm.

CHAPTER EIGHT

HOW TO USE A WALKING STICK

The walking sticks are very useful to keep your balance and to distribute more of your body's weight to your arms. You can use walking sticks if you have an injured leg or to hike. Regardless of the type of stick you use, make sure you set it to the correct length so that you can walk comfortably.

USING A WALKING STICK WITH AN INJURED LEG

❖     Ask a doctor if a stick is suitable for your particular kind of injury. If you have an injured hip, knee, or leg, your doctor may recommend using a cane. Sometimes doctors recommend other aids such as walkers or crutches.

The choice of aid depends on your kind of injury, your strength, your fitness, and your level of balance.

❖     Adjust your walking stick so that it reaches as high as your wrist. Stand straight and let your arms fall to your side. Adjust the height of the stick to reach your wrist or have someone else adjust it. When the walking stick reaches your wrist, you don't have to bend down to use it. Still, it should also be low enough for you not to strain to put your weight on it.

Choosing the right height will reduce pressure on your shoulders and wrists. A physical therapist can help you adjust the stick to the correct height.

❖     Hold your stick in your other hand, the one opposite your injured leg. Many people think the walking stick should be on the same side as the injury, but it actually works a lot better if you hold it on the opposite side. If your left leg hurts, you should hold the stick with your right hand. If your right leg hurts, you should hold it with your left hand.

This will shift more of your body weight to the stronger side of your body.

❖     Move the stick with your injured leg at the same time. Place the walking stick in front of you as you move forward with the injured leg.  It doesn't have to be way in front of you, but it has to be more than 5.1 cm ahead. Take short steps with the injured leg and walking stick and then move forward with the good leg.

This way the walking stick and the injured leg share the burden.

It may take some time to get used to moving your stick and leg at the same time, but constant usage will make it easier.

❖     Place your good leg on the staircase first. Make sure your stick is in the opposite hand to the injured leg as always. If possible, hold onto a railing with your other hand. Step forward with your good leg and then continue with the injured leg and stick.

Remember that your injured leg and the walking stick are supposed to move at the same time.

❖     Go down the stairs, starting with the stick. Put your stick on the step below you. Then go down with your injured leg. Take your good leg down to the same step. If there is a handrail, you can hold it for additional support.

Make sure you climb the stairs slowly to avoid falling.

❖     Eliminate pitfalls - trip hazards - from the home. If you use a stick, make sure that the stairs are not cluttered with objects. And that the house and the furniture are arranged so that one can easily move about. Remove electrical cables, carpets, and boxes (or ask someone to move them) from your path so your stick doesn't get caught in them.

You may also want to put a grab handle in the shower and use a rubber mat to reduce the likelihood of you slipping.

HIKING WITH A WALKING STICK

❖ Decide whether you want to use one or two sticks. Most people prefer to walk with two sticks or walking sticks so that they can balance more easily. However, the single stick can be useful for softer terrain where balance is less important.

If you only want to use one stick, you may want to change hands from time to time.

❖ Get a stick that rises 15 to 20 cm above your elbow. While the height of a stick is a personal preference, many people like to use a stick 15 to 20 cm higher than the elbow so that they can hold the stick partway down. If you are making your own, cut it to the correct length. When you buy a stick, hold it in your hand and check that the height feels good.

You can always shorten a wooden stick, so make sure it's too long if you're not sure.

❖ Hold your elbow at a right angle and grasp your stick with your hand. If you find that you'd rather hold the walking stick a little higher or a little lower than a right angle, that's fine too. You can hold the stick with the hand of your choice, although many people prefer to use their dominant hand.

If you are using a hiking stick with a loop, put your hand through the loop from below and then hold the handle.

❖ Simultaneously move your stick with the opposite foot. This allows your arms to swing in a natural running rhythm and distribute your weight evenly. For example, if you hold the stick with your right hand, you have to move it forward while moving your left foot forward.

This type of movement should feel more natural than moving your foot and hand on the same side of your body at the same time.

❖ Place your walking stick against the stream bed for river or stream crossings. When walking on rocks through a stream, plant your stick so that it touches the bottom of the stream. If you accidentally step on a loose or slippery rock, the firmly planted stick will help you keep your balance.

You can also use the stick to test the water depth.